Wavesandcoastalprocesses

Factorsinfluencinpthe rate and locationof processes

in coastalenvironments:

processes:
Atmospheric Geological
factors:

- Windspeedanddirection. - Rocktype(soft/hard).

- Precipitation/
frostetc. - Rockstructureandanyweaknesses.

Marinefactors: Humanfactors:

- Wavestrengthandtype. - Coastal
defences.

- Waveenergy. - Beach
nourishment.

- Waverefraction.

Howdoesa waveformandbreak?

t. Windblowsoverthe surfacecreating a transferof frictionandenergywhichcauses a wave

to develop.Thesizeof the wavedepends of the fetch(howfar the windhastravelled),wind
strength,speedandduration.
2. Frictionbetweenthe windandthe watersurfacecauses waterparticles
to beginto rotate.
3. Dueto frictionwith the seabed;the wavebeginsto slowdownat the base.
4. Thewavebecomes steeperuntilthe waveheightto wavelengthratiois 1:7.Thewavewill
thenbreakasit becomes unstableandtopplesover.
Wavefeaturesandterminologv:
Crest:

The highestpoint of a wave.

Through:

The lowest point of a wave.

Waveheieht:

ls the distancebetweencrestand trough.

Wavelength:

ls the distancebetweentwo successive

crests.
HangTen
Wavefrequency:

The numberof waverper minute.

Waveperiod:

ls the time takenfor a wave to travelthroughone wave length.

Wavesteepness:

ls the ratio of the wave heightto wave length.

Wave Base:

Thisis the depthbelowwhichthere is no rotationalmovement.

Destructive
and constructive
waves:
Destructive
waves:

a Highenergywaves.
a Backwashis greaterthan the swash.
a Highfrequencywave (10-12per min)
a Shortwavelength.
a Createdby localisedwindsand storms.
a Steepbeachprofile,erosionalwaves.
a Highwaves(greaterthan 1m)

Constructivewaves:

a Low energywaves.
a Swashis greaterthan the backwash.
a Low frequencywaves(6-8per min)
a Longwavelength(up to 100m)
a Createdby the swell.
a Fairlyflat, gentle beachprofile.
a Low flat waves(lessthan 1m)

Waverefraction:
Wherewavesmeetan irregular
coastline
theyarerefracted
whichmeansthat theybecome
parallel
increasingly to thecoastline:

Where a headlandseparatestwo baysas eachwave crestnearsthe coastit tendsto drag

into shallowwater nearto a headlandor indeedany shallowwater.
Thenthe crestin deeperwater movesforwardwhile that in shallowwater is retarded(by
frictionaldrag)causingthe waveto bend.
The longshorecurrentscarrysedimentawayfrom the headland.