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Experiment No: 01

Experiment Name: Production of different type of stitches.

Introduction:
Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principles interloping intralooping, interlacing to join
two plies of fabric.

Types of stitches:
All kind of stitches are classified into 6 classes.

1. Stitch class -100 (chain stitch)


• In this stitch- one loop passing through the another loop of same thread.
• Security of this seam is poor/not satisfactory
• It can produce easily and high speed using one needle
• Only one needle thread is used for making this stitch
• Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick-up
• It is also used blind stitch purpose
• If one unit is break then whole stitch is open

Uses: Hemming, button attaching, button young, gathering and temporary positioning of
garment component and purpose.

2. Stitch class-200 (hand stitch)


• Stitch under this class are also produced with single thread by the use of
special type of sewing m/c
• Stitch class-200 cannot be produced for longer length sewing
• Uses for stitch costly garment

3. Stitch class- 300 (Lock stitch)


• It require two types of sewing thread
• Both side are same
• It is difficult to pick up
• Less extensibility
• More compact
• Yarn consumption are comparatively less
• Stitch under this class is naturally secured
• It is widely uses in garments factory
4 .Stitch class -400 (multi thread chain stitch)
• One or more thread is used
• One group is called upper thread and another group is called lopper thread ( under
thread)
• Security of this stitch is higher than lockstitch about 30%
• Higher production than lockstitch due to use large package
• This type of stitch are use for making knitted garments

5. Stitch class -500 (over edge chain stitch)


• It require more than two threads
• One group is called upper thread another group is called looper thread
• Security is higher than lock stitch about 30%
• It has good preventing power and edge production
• It is used for making knitted garments
• It is also used decorative purpose
• It is only used in the edge of the fabric
6. Stitch class- 600 (covering chain stitch and flat)
• Three or more sewing thread are used to make this stitch
• Three group of sewing thread are used – Needle thread , Lopper thread, Covering
thread
• Security is good
• Sewing thread consumption is very high
• This type of stitch are used to join side by side of fabric without increasing
thickness
• This type of stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace braid, elastic,
etc.

Conclusion:
All the stitches are used for producing different kind of seam. As student of textile engineer
we have to know about all the stitches and have to know what kind of stitches are required to
sewing what kind of fabric.
By this experiment, we have learned many of things. This knowledge helps us in our future
life.
Experiment No: 02
Experiment Name: Production of different types of seam.

Introduction:
Seam: Seam is the combination of stitch which make line to join two ply of fabric used as
functional purpose sometime used as decorative purpose

Type of seam: Arrangement of fabric ends of the seam line is called seam type. They
are classified into following types

1. Seam class- 1 : super imposed seam


2. Seam class- 2 : Lapped seam
3. Seam class- 3 : Bound seam
4. Seam class- 4 : Flat seam
5. Seam class- 5 : Decorative seam
6. Seam class- 6 : Edge neatening

1. Seam class- 1: super imposed seam


• Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing together.
• Host commonly used
• The fabric ends are in same direction
• The most basic super imposed seam is ssa
• It has over 50 variations
• This class of seam can be sewn a variety of m/c e.g. Lock stitch , or over lock m/c
• Use : Mostly used inside seam like as shirt and pants

2. Seam class- 2: Lapped seam


• This type of seam is achieved with two or more piece of fabric over lapping each
other
• Two seam ends of the fabric are is opposite direction
• Mostly two needle chain stitch m/c is used
• Seam under this class is very strong
• Uses: Inside seam of jeans and dress shirts etc.

3. Seam class- 3: Bound seam


• A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of another piece of
fabric.
• The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
• Some time used as decorative purpose
• The binder fabric may be different colors
• There are 18 variation of bound seam
• Uses: neckline of a T-shirt , Yoke joint in the shirt waist band , under wire .

4. Seam class- 4: Flat seam


• Flat seam are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely at their edge.
• Seam thickness is comparatively less
• Zigzag stitch may be produced
• Edge should be cleaned before sewing to avoid fraying
• Uses: Intensively used in under garments in knitwear
5. Seam class- 5:
Decorative seam
• This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in one or more
layer of fabric
• Multi needle sewing m/c in used
• Seam under this class are produced only for decorative purpose
• Uses: Use in pant or other dresses

6. Seam class- 6: Edge neatening


• Seam under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends from cut area
cannot come out during m/c
• It can be made by overlook m/c
• Extensively used
• Used: Mostly used knitted garments and hemming

Conclusion:
By this experiment, we have learned about different type of seam and their uses. This
knowledge help us in our future job in life.
Experiment No: 03
Experiment Name: Making a pattern of front and back part, waist band, pocket
facing, fly piece, pocket bag of a pant.
Introduction:
Pattern making is one of the important sections in the garments industry. Before
production pattern is made by the various measurement or standard body
measurement. Pattern making is very important because proper pattern making
ensured to follow bulk production. During pattern making, consider some
parameters like accuracy of measurement, use less space, selection of batch
according to shade, numbering etc.

Principle of pattern making for trouser:

The measurements taken for making pattern are-


• Seat 90cm
• Waist 70cm
• Body raise 26.8cm
• Inside leg measurement 72cm
• Trouser bottom width 23.5cm
• Waist band depth 4cm

Front & back part

From 0 point left side, right side and upper side at 90º angle three straight lines
are drawn.
body rise +1 –waist band depth
=26.8+1-4=23.8cm
Then from the point 1 the line is extended both side perpendicularly.
1-2, Inside leg measurement =72cm
line is expanded both side perpendicularly.
2-3, inside seam length /2+5 =41cm.
1-4,1/4(body rise measurement ) from point 4 a line is expanded both side
perpendicular to 0-1 line.
1-5, 1/12 (seat)+1.5cm from point 5 a perpendicular line is drawn on the line of
1-5, inside the point 6 and 7.
6-8, 1/4(seat measurement )+2cm
5-9,1/16, (seat measurement )+0.5cm
7-10,1cm
A curve drawn according to the fig. the point 9, 6 and 10.
10-11, ¼ waist +2.5cm
2-12, Bottom width*1/2
2-13, Bottom width*1/2
5-16,(1-5), then from point 16 a perpendicular line 1-16 drawn which indicate
17 and 18 point .
19 mid point of 16 to 18.
18-20, 2cm
20-21,1cm
9-22,1/2 (5+0.9)+0.5cm
22-23, 0.5cm .A curve is drawn from the point 23,19 &21
21-24,1/4(waist)+4.5cm
25, Mid point of 21 and 24. from point 25left side 1.25 and bottom side 12 cm.
17-26,1/4(seat)+3cm
12-27, 2cm
13-28, 2cm
14-29, 2cm
15-30, 2cm
Then side seam is drawn from the point 24,26,29,27.

Pocket bag:
A-B =5cm
A-F=17cm
F-E=32cm
E-D=17cm
B-C=19cm
Then the pocket bag is drawn according to the fig. seam allowance is added.

Pocket facing:
Length =(B-C)+2cm
Width =6cm

Fly piece:

Length = 24cm
Width = 5cm
Then the seam allowance is added.

Waistband making:

G-H =4cm
G-I =45+0.5cm
H-K =0.5cm
I-L =4cm
Fly piece
F Pocket facing
B

Waist band

E Pocket bag

Conclusion:
Thus the pattern of front and back part of a trouser is prepared .By this
experiment we have learn how to make front and back part of a trouser
knowledge is very essential for every textile eng. This knowledge helps us in
our future.
Experiment No: 04
Experiment Name: Study of thread path main adjustment point of different
industrial overlock stitch sewing machine.

Introduction:
The m/c by which overlock stitch is produced is known as industria overlock stitch machine
overlock stitch machine is used for sewing different type of garment. The machine is used for
sewing both woven and knitted fabrics

Specification of the m/c:


M/c name : industrial overlock sewing m/c
Brand name : YAMATA
Model : FY2100-4
Group : Chain stitch
SPM : 6500-8500
Needle name : DC*1
Needle size :
9,11,14,16,18,20,21
SPI/TPI : 16/18/21inch
Seam class : super imposed
Stitch class :500

Needle thread
Creel

Tensioner post box

Needle eye

Feed dog

Throat plate (outside)


Conclusion:
From this experiment, we known a lot of knowledge about overlock stitch machine which
will helpful for us in our future job life.
Experiment No: 05
Experiment Name: Study of thread path main adjustment point of different
industrial chain stitch sewing machine and production sample.
Introduction:
The m/c by which chain stitch is produced is known as industrial chain stitch machine chain
stitch machine is used for sewing different type of garment. The machine is used for sewing
both woven and knitted fabrics
Features of chain stitch m/c:
- This m/c have one or more needles
- Some m/c may have automatic thread trimmer
- Different type of feed mechanism can be used
- Stitch length generally 1.5-4.5mm
- Used for sewing both woven and knitted fabric

Classification of the m/c:


1. Stitch type -1000 (single thread): 1 needle , 1 lopper chain stitch, over lock m/c
2. Stitch class- 4000 (multithread chain stitch): 2 needle, 2 lopper chain stitch, over lock
m/c.

Specification of the m/c:


M/c name : Multithread chain stitch double needle chain stitch m/c
Brand name : YAMATA
Model : FY0058A
Group : Chain stitch
SPM : 1800-6500
Needle name : TV*5
Needle size : 9,11,14,16,18,20,21
SPI/TPI : 8inch
Seam class : Lapped seam/ super imposed
Stitch class : 4000

3. Needle thread

Creel

Tensioner post box

Needle eye

Feed dog

Throat plate (outside)

Conclusion:
From this experiment, we known a lot of knowledge about chain stitch Chain stitch machine
which will helpful for us in our future job life.

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