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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals May 2010 $7.

50
Industry Leaders
in Keeping the
Planet Green.
Éminence offers products with the highest organic standards
worldwide including USDA Certified Organic, ingredients
certified by Demeter International – the only global certifier
of Biodynamic® products, and Biokontroll Hungaria.
Éminence cares about the planet from harvest to production, packaging to delivery. We are committed to being
the “Greenest Company in Town” with the following initiatives: Wind and Solar Powered Manufacturing,
Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing, Recycled
Paper in Outer Packaging, Biodegradable Corn-Based Packing Materials, Green Warehouse Practices, Hybrid
and Biodiesel Car Deliveries, Green Transportation Support for our Staff, Green Community Supporter, Tree
Re-planting Initiatives, Green Spa Program, ISO 90001/2001 Certified Manufacturing.

NENC
MI
É

GREENSPA
OR

G
AR

AN C
IC SKI N

Boldijarre Koronczay
President and Master Trainer
Tea Infused Skin Immunity
Boosting Collection

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craftsmanship to bring you the most potent with the new Immuni-Tea Collection from
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EnvironmEntally rEsponsiblE providEr of prEmium skin C arE

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card
CONTENTS M AY 2 0 1 0 VOLUME 25
& spa
NUMBER 5

skin
Summer Tune-Up 31 Beware of
The Cosmeceutical Choice 34 Summer Invaders
The Search for the guarding spa safety
Ideal Sun Protection 40 page 82
Skin Care Camp 46
Skin News 53 spa
Tiny Terrors 67
The Search for the Self-Esteem Saboteur 68
Ideal Sun Protection Botanical Wrap-Up: Treatments
understanding sunscreens that Heal and Hydrate 75
page 40 25 Expert Tips: Suggestions for the Treatment
Room and Solutions for the Spa Owner 77
Beware of Summer Invaders 82
Spa News 85

business
Marketing Boot Camp
Spa Owner’s Corner: Going Solo,
87
green spa
Gradual Greening 105
The Joy of Self-Employment 88
Going Green From
Biz Smart: Merit Based Skin Care 92
the Ground Up 106
Cracking the Retail Code 98
Word Wise 110
Biz News 103
Green Spa News 113

Cracking the Retail Code Word Wise


the answer is simple
defining “green”
page 98
page110

extras
From the Editor 6
Brows That Wow Spa of the Month: Spa Esoteric, McKinney, TX 10
creating the perfect arch
Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa,
page 115
Dallas, TX 23
Summer Bare All 58
image Calendar of Events 126
Brows That Wow 115 Advertisers’ Index 130
Eye Enhancement 116
Ooh La-La Glow: Healthy Hue 121 Cover
courtesy of INTERMÈDE
Image News 123
Salon de Coiffure

Page 4 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say
Say you
you saw
saw it
it in
in LNE
LNE &
& Spa
Spa and
and circle
circle #232
#232 on
on reader
reader service
service card
card
Save some green on aesthetic technology.
InternatIonal Congress of esthetICs & spa In Dallas
VIsIt Booths 121 & 123

Unveiling beautiful skin with from the


New Clinical products!
CliniCal aCnE CaRE
editor
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BPO Treatment Gel 5% & 10%


W HEN YOU THINK OF SUMMERTIME, DO
you daydream of lazing around the pool
and staying up until the wee hours with friends?
Or does the thought of summer bring to mind
sunburns and an unshakable smell of chlorine
mD RETinOl anTi-aGinG in your hair? However you generally spend your
summer, the season has great potential to create
Retinol Treatment Pads in 5X & 7.5X fond memories for everyone.
Spas can tap into the sunshine and design
wonderful opportunities that connect them with
CliniCal GlyCOliC REjuvEnaTiOn local clientele. Do you want your spa to be the talk of
Glycolic Treatment Pads 10% & 15% the town? LNE & Spa’s May Skin Care Summer Camp
issue is designed to help you embrace the warmer
10% Glycolic Rejuvenation Cream weather with the latest skin care tips, spa solutions
and imaginative ideas. “Skin Care Camp” by Gena
Glycolic Wash & Toner
Flores (pg. 46) is filled with resourceful suggestions
on how to host your own “spa camp.“ Addressing our
clients’ quest for the best sunscreen, “The Search for
Call 1 800 689-0499 the Ideal Skin Protection” by Jennifer Linder, M.D.,
www.aRCSkinCare.com (pg. 40) shares practical information on the common
misconceptions of sun protection. And don’t miss
Chantal Savinon-Soto’s step-by-step advice on how
ADVAnCED to give your clients a vacation tan without the sun or
travel in “Ooh La-La Glow: Healthy Hue!” (pg. 121)

RejuvenAting If you have the summertime blues, dive into


education that encourages and inspires you. There

COnCEPtS

is no better way to develop your skills in our industry
than attending a trade show. Speaking of which, The
International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami
Do you know what cosmeceutical skin care ingredients was the place to be in April! I had the privilege of
are needed to deliver results without causing undue
meeting many estheticians, spa owners and vendors
who expressed interest in more communication
irritation? We do. Each product from AdvAnced
between the magazine and themselves. I would
RejuvenAting concepts is formulated to provide
like to personally invite you to get in touch with me
your clientele with the Right ingRedient foRmulA-
so we can collaborate. I am an esthetician myself,
tions to deliveR beAutiful Results at home and in
and I love hearing ideas, thoughts and remarks from
the treatment room.
other professionals in my field. Whether you are a
solo esthetician, director of a skin care company
ask about our introductory Offer! or the owner of a day spa, it is always great to get
to know my colleagues in the industry. I am now
Call 1 800 689-0499 or visit looking forward to getting to know even more
aRCSkinCare.com outstanding professionals in our industry in Dallas
at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa
on May 16th and 17th. See you there! n
Tina Zillmann
Aesthetician, Vice President, Educational
Director, AIA President and Skin Clinic Owner Esthetically yours,
—Denise R. Fuller

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #120 on reader service card
Page 6 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #184 on reader service card
3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD.
CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134
800.471.0229 (USA)

Analyze
305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664
www.lneonline.com
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This
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Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand


Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand
rodolphe@lneonline.com
Holds 7 Real Time
Moisture
Measurements
Per Session
Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller
denise@lneonline.com
Art Director Sacha Smith
sacha@lneonline.com
Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton
amanda@lneonline.com
Director of Sales Danni Boucher
danni@lneonline.com
Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye
christele@lneonline.com
Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo
laura@lneonline.com
Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno
mayli@lneonline.com
International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni
7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017
Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

ADVISORY BOARD
Mark Lees, Ph.D. • Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow
Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola

Contributors
Marion Bodner Janet McCormick Chantal Savinon-Soto
Carl A. Boger Jr. Monika Norman Jean Shea
Krista Bourne Matthew Pace David Suzuki
Tracy L. Drumm Aliesh Pierce Sherry Taylor
Gena Flores Linda Rae Nadine Toriello
LCD Display

Neil A. France Cassandra Rafuse Carol Trow


Jennifer Linder, M.D. Laura Root Rob Trow
Tara Manna Jeri Ross

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition


(USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year
and is sold exclusively by subscription.
Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D.
World’s First hand held 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134

moisture analysis tool with Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices.
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800.971.6259
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card
Page 8 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #249
spa of the month|Hometown Charm Spa Esoteric, McKinney, TX

by Monika Norman

The sweet elderly


cosmetologist’s O NCE UPON A TIME, THERE WAS A
little girl who spent much of her time at her
great aunt’s home. The aunt was a cosmetologist
hometown salon who owned a salon in her own house. The family
was my inspiration understood that one side of the house was for
when I estabished business only, and that they were not allowed
Spa Esoteric. to see what was behind the door. Children were
strictly forbidden to enter the mysterious room.
That, of course, only fueled their curiosity.
Laughter and giggles could be heard be-
hind the enigmatic door as tea was taken in
on a tray in a sweet little Brown Betty teapot
that was refilled over and over again. Only kind
words were spoken in the forbidden room,
and there were hours of welcoming and wav-
ing good-bye.
continues

Page 10 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


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spa of the month|spa esoteric

The sweet elderly cosmetol- Quite an adventure!


ogist’s hometown salon was my To take on a project of such magnitude, ev-
inspiration when I estabished eryone involved must be committed to every
Spa Esoteric. detail. Do not rush or cut corners. Tackle the
As time passed and I even- project in sections. When I purchased the spa,
tually reached an appropriate it had already been in operation for eight years
age, my aunt allowed me to go into the salon, and desperately needed a face lift. The work,
When I purchased help out with the clients and listen to their sto- the style of the house, the equipment—every-
the spa, it had ries, many of which were similar to one another. thing had to be overhauled. So for the next six
already been I grew to realize that they would come to see months, the vintage spa was redesigned and
in operation my aunt for more than just their hair care. They restored. The whole interior was transformed
for eight years came because it was a place filled with happi- without ever having to close. For the build-
ness, a place where every client was respected. out, the team continued to work around other
and desperately
They came for the wonderful goodies and a staff, clients and construction. Some days were
needed a face lift. kind friendship that they had only found in that quite an adventure, as therapists were not sure
house. My aunt knew everyone and everything, where they were going to take their clients, and
she was the keeper of the secrets. As a child, I the gracious guests patiently went along with
came to know that the spa was marked by the the process because they knew the end was in
community as a “kindhearted woman’s house.” sight. Pictures of the spa before, during and
I loved that house and the way it made me feel. after construction were taken and organized
After graduating from high school, I went in a binder. The team now looks back over the
on to beauty school. I lived with my aunt during pictures and understands the great task that
this period of my life. After my classes, we had was undertaken to get them to where they are
many great discussions about the cosmetology today—a beautiful facility called Spa Esoteric!
and spa industry. The desire to create a busi- Acquiring the best spa team can be a chal-
ness that replicated her house while also being lenge. To establish a successful spa, you cannot
unique was a challenging concept to formulate. just hire bodies to fill treatment rooms. Employ
Finally, after years of working for others, like-minded people with the same passion for
the dream became real when I purchased a high standards. It may take time to find the
123-year-old historical building in McKinney, TX. continues

Page 12 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #147 on reader service card
spa of the month|spa esoteric

the first and second columns. So the services


you want to be doing the most often should
be placed on the first two pages. Additional
information included on the general menu is
the spa’s location, along with a map, hours
of operation and methods of payment—ev-
erything a prospective client needs to know.
A specialty menu with treatments specifi-
cally for pregnant guests has also been created.
Previously, many expecting clients were request-
ing services that were not appropriate for them.
The specialty menu makes it easier for pregnant
clients to choose suitable services. Expectant
mothers can enjoy a 60 minute salt glow, skin
conditioning facial and prenatal massage after
their first trimester. Spa Esoteric definitely knows
how to take care of the mom-to-be.
Our treatments come from all over the world.
Spa Esoteric has become known as a place
that produces tried and true results. A variety
of exclusive and unique products from local
competitors make up a well stocked backbar
that has built strong customer loyalty.

Key business tip


Many spa or salon owners purchase thousands
of dollars in retail products, only to have them
sit on the shelves and take up space. If a prod-
uct is not gone in six months to a year, get rid
of it! Donate it to a woman’s foundation, school
or other charity. Clients do not want to keep
seeing the same old stuff. The location of prod-
uct stock at Spa Esoteric changes regularly, as
the guests are always checking for new items.
Products that do not move are just transplanted
to the sale table. The experienced staff offers
guests suggestions for their home product use.

Technology in the vintage house


Spa Esoteric has invested in a very high qual-
ity software system for booking appointments.
right fit, so a realistic approach for a business Computer language is foreign to most spa
The location of Spa may be to start small and slowly expand their owners, and Spa Esoteric needed software
Esoteric product team. Spa Esoteric has had great success in solutions. A package was developed for the
stock changes hiring people with strong personalities. The spa and it will never have to change its soft-
as the guests are team is like a very close family. When clients ware, because it is compatible with growth
always checking enter the spa, they have a relaxing feeling of and new ideas.
being at home. The ability of a team to work The team at Spa Esoteric has experience,
for new items.
together without drama and friction is the key personality and ideas. We consistently pro-
to any successful operation. vide in house training and attend conferences
There are two menus available at Spa Eso­ to stay informed for the benefit of our guests.
teric. The first is a general menu with a four page Everyone on the team is given an opportu-
fold out that lists the most popular services in nity to express themselves and participate
the first column. Clients tend to look only at continues

Page 16 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


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May 16-17 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139
Dena and David Suzuki Bio-Therapeutic World Wide USA | 800.971.6259 | bio-therapeutic.com
Owners of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc. Para información en Español llame al 800.971.6474
spa of the month|spa esoteric

in their spa home. Each employee feels valued and put together to create a seamless opera-
and passes that respect onto the guests. Our tion in which everyone is on the same page,
goal is to make the client feel like the world out- ensuring that the client knows we are there for
side stops once they step into the spa. Putting them and will handle them well. Services last
together a plan of action, with everything from for a full hour, not 30 minutes or 55 minutes.
what the team wears, colors and style, phone
voice of the receptionist, client intake consul- At Spa Esoteric, we believe in
tation—even the way water, tea and goodies
customizing all of our services. It
are delivered to the clients—were thought out
is the little things that matter, and
ultimately they are what make a
big difference in client loyalty.

We are determined to make the client feel that


they are not just a number that is bused in and
out. Our operation philosophy at Spa Esoteric
is that we would rather service fewer clients in
a day so that the ones we see are not rushed
and the staff has ample time between services
to properly transition. This decision has made
a huge difference to the clients, who often re-
mark, “You mean I don’t have to get out right
this minute? I can rest here a bit longer?” They
appreciate the true value of the service they
just received.
Guests enjoy the wellness and calming treat-
ments that are offered at the spa. They experi-
ence a custom aromatherapy massage with a
scent of their choice blended with the finest
French shea butter. If there is any product left
over afterwards, the remainder is given to the
client with the scent written for them. At Spa
Esoteric, we believe in customizing all of our
services. It is the little things that matter, and
ultimately they are what make a biggest differ-
ence in client loyalty.
The spa is immaculate. Management takes
a white glove approach, and there is no dust or
cobwebs in sight. Clients take note of cleanli-
ness, and they will not come back if they feel
that a place is not tidy. Spa Esoteric’s custom
pedicure bowls from Canada have no pipes
or jets, which prevents infections. Everything
is cleaned with hospital grade solutions. That
measure has also inspired client loyalty be-
cause it demonstrates a commitment to pro-
tecting client safety.
It is very important to keep everything
clean and in working order. Clients notice ev-
erything. We use white, fluffy towels for every
spa and salon treatment except for those used
in the hair salon, which are brown. Each treat-
continues

Page 18 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #247
spa of the month|spa esoteric

I have become the keeper


of the secrets and try to
work with grace every day.
This is a gift—not without its
challenges—but a gift no less.

services, which is good publicity for the treat-


ment. Guests compliment therapists on their
radiant complexion, opening the door for the
therapist to share their treatment success story.

Words of wisdom
In conclusion, I would like to offer my Brown
Betty tea pot of wisdom: Take your time to de-
cide what audience you want to play to, and then
put together the “toy box” for that audience.
You do not have to be all things to all people.
Do not make excuses for what you charge, the
services you offer or how they are done. Hire
personalities that blend well together; they will
ment table is lined with 400 count become your family. Thoroughly train all staff to
sheets, fleece warmers with heaters maintain consistency in their service, because
and soft blankets, and all are per- your clients will come to rely on it. Compensate
sonally checked on a weekly basis your staff and reward your clients. Make sure
to make sure they are comfortable everyone feels valued, respected and cared
and warm. Fresh flowers are deliv- for. If you build it, they will come. Take your
ered every week, supplied by a lo- time, every time.
cal floral designer. Baked goodies I have recreated the ambiance and feeling
are available for guests, purchased that I experienced from a house of my youth.
from another local merchant. There A place of welcoming and waving goodbye. I
is a lovely horse and buggy vendor have become the keeper of secrets, and I try
who offers carriage rides around the to work with grace every day. This is a gift—not
square, which the spa’s guests enjoy. Immersing without its challenges—but a gift no less. If you
the spa family into the community brings the are in the area, drop in and say hello, have a
town together. cup of tea and relax. Come enjoy the comfort-
Spa Esoteric’s highest producing services ing experience that awaits at Spa Esoteric. n
are the Intraceutical Oxygen Treatments. These
were a large investment for the spa, and we
earned the right to have an exclusive territory Photography: Jana C. Perez
for these hyperbaric treatments, which have be-
come our biggest seller. The oxygen machine Monika Norman is the
is multifunctional. Oxygen facials are available, founder and owner of
as well as oxygen inhalation treatments and Spa Esoteric. She spe-
spray tanning. Clients who are seeking more cializes in massage ther-
energy, health and vitality love the service. apy, body treatments,
Guests seeking faster recovery from jet lag esthetics, and salon and
are also attracted to the oxygen treatments. day spa management.
The multipurpose machine is used during the She has trained students
facial services, in addition to tanning services and owners in all areas
and oxygen treatments. Employees are encour- of salon or day spa operations. For more infor-
aged to take time out to receive one of these mation visit www.spaesoteric.com.

Page 20 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


spa of the month|spa esoteric

I have become the keeper


of the secrets and try to
work with grace every day.
This is a gift—not without its
challenges—but a gift no less.

services, which is good publicity for the treat-


ment. Guests compliment therapists on their
radiant complexion, opening the door for the
therapist to share their treatment success story.

Words of wisdom
In conclusion, I would like to offer my Brown
Betty tea pot of wisdom: Take your time to de-
cide what audience you want to play to, and then
put together the “toy box” for that audience.
You do not have to be all things to all people.
Do not make excuses for what you charge, the
ment table is lined with 400 count services you offer or how they are done. Hire
sheets, fleece warmers with heaters personalities that blend well together; they will
and soft blankets, and all are per- become your family. Thoroughly train all staff to
sonally checked on a weekly basis maintain consistency in their service, because
to make sure they are comfortable your clients will come to rely on it. Compensate
and warm. Fresh flowers are deliv- your staff and reward your clients. Make sure
ered every week, supplied by a lo- everyone feels valued, respected and cared
cal floral designer. Baked goodies for. If you build it, they will come. Take your
are available for guests, purchased time, every time.
from another local merchant. There I have recreated the ambiance and feeling
is a lovely horse and buggy vendor that I experienced from a house of my youth.
who offers carriage rides around the A place of welcoming and waving goodbye. I
square, which the spa’s guests enjoy. Immersing have become the keeper of secrets, and I try
the spa family into the community brings the to work with grace every day. This is a gift—not
town together. without its challenges—but a gift no less. If you
Spa Esoteric’s highest producing services are in the area, drop in and say hello, have a
are the Intraceutical Oxygen Treatments. These cup of tea and relax. Come enjoy the comfort-
were a large investment for the spa, and we ing experience that awaits at Spa Esoteric. n
earned the right to have an exclusive territory
for these hyperbaric treatments, which have be-
come our biggest seller. The oxygen machine Monika Norman is the
is multifunctional. Oxygen facials are available, founder and owner of
as well as oxygen inhalation treatments and Spa Esoteric. She spe-
spray tanning. Clients who are seeking more cializes in massage ther-
energy, health and vitality love the service. apy, body treatments,
Guests seeking faster recovery from jet lag esthetics, and salon and
are also attracted to the oxygen treatments. day spa management.
The multipurpose machine is used during the She has trained students
facial services, in addition to tanning services and owners in all areas
and oxygen treatments. Employees are encour- of salon or day spa operations. For more infor-
aged to take time out to receive one of these mation visit www.spaesoteric.com.

Page 20 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


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The Revolution
Has Begun!
Wilma Schumann is proud to
announce the launching of our
new image and packaging.
n Contemporary Clinical look
n Uncompromising Product Quality
n Original Formulations

n Unquestionable Results

n Outstanding Customer Service

Change has come to our world.


At Wilma Schumann, we’ve embraced
that change. What about you?

Come be part of the Revolution and watch


your business grow!

Call us for your free samples


and catalog.

www.wilmaschumann.com n P: 1-800-440-3032 n F: 305-663-5760 n sales@wilmaschumann.com


In Canada contact Advanced Spa Technologies n 1-800-249-9618 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #106
THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS R E G I S T R AT I ON
OF ESTHETICS AND SPA
ALL-INCLUSIVE

$75
2 - DAY ADMISSION

• Exhibition Floor

• General Session (lectures and live demos)

• Advanced Salon/Spa Business Seminar

• Medical Esthetic Seminar NEW

• In-Depth Makeup Class NEW

• AIA Education Classes

• All Manufacturers’ Workshops

5 WAYS TO REGISTER:
PHONE:
1.800.471.0229
1.305.443.2322

Presented by ONLINE:
www.LNEONLINE.com

E-MAIL:

DALLAS
Registration@LNEONLINE.com

FAX:
1.305.443.1664

ARLINGTON CONVENTION CENTER, TEXAS MAIL:


MAY 16 & 17, 2010 Aesthetic Expo
3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd.
Sponsored by Coral Gables, FL 33134

CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR


FREE SHOW PROGRAM:
PROGRAM PREVIEW 1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322
HOTEL & TRAVEL
INFORMATION
HOTEL RATES PER NIGHT
Sheraton Arlington Single Double Triple Quad
Superior First Class $135 $135 $145 $155
Adjacent to Convention Center

Hilton Arlington King Bed King Bed


First Class $109 $109 N/A N/A
N/A 2 Double
Beds
2 Double
Beds
2 Double
Beds
$119 $119 $119
1 mile from Convention Center
Complimentary shuttle to and from Arlington Convention Center

Hawthorn Suites Arlington Single Double Triple Quad


First Class $99 $99 $99 $99
1 mile from Convention Center
Rate includes buffet breakfast
Complimentary Shuttle to and from Arlington Convention Center

Baymont Inn & Suites Single Double Triple Quad


Moderate First Class $69 $69 $69 $69
3/4 miles from Convention Center
Rate includes continental breakfast
Complimentary shuttle to and from Arlington Convention Center

RESERVE YOUR HOTEL All rates are PER NIGHT – Plus 15% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability.
CANCELLATION PENALTIES:
Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com
$50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 4/30/10.
E-mail: registration@LNEONLINE.com Full one night deposit if cancelled after 5/7/10.
Tel: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664 Cancellation penalties are STRICLY ENFORCED.

AIRLINE RESERVATIONS & CAR RENTAL


To make your airline reservations at the best possible airfare or to rent a car you may contact
Sonia Diaz toll-free at 1.800.544.1222 ext. 283 or e-mail your request to sdiaz@expresstravelus.com.

TAXI SERVICE
FROM DALLAS/FT. WORTH AIRPORT:
Taxi service is available on the upper level of each terminal. The fare to Arlington is approximately $37.00.

FROM LOVE FIELD AIRPORT:


Taxi service is available on the upper level across the street from the baggage claim wing of the main terminal building. The fare to Arlington is approximately $45.00.

AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICES


Shuttle Transportation from Dallas/Ft.Worth airport to:
SHERATON ARLINGTON: Complimentary shuttle available from 6:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Upon arrival at DFW Airport call 1.817.261.8200.

HILTON ARLINGTON: $5 per person each way available from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Upon arrival at DFW Airport call 1.817.640.3322.

BAYMONT INN & SUITES: Complimentary shuttle available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Upon arrival at DFW Airport call 1.817.633.2434.

Shuttle transportation from the airport to your hotel is available via SUPERSHUTTLE
Reserve your transportation online at supershuttle.com and save! Use group code A2DTJ when reserving online.
For fares, reservations and more information, please call 1.800.258.3826.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Dallas 2010


GENERAL SESSION &
SEMINARS
Sunday, May 16th
GENERAL SESSION INCLU
DED
WITH N
ISSIO
9:30 a.m. Official Opening Ceremony by William Strunk ADM

9:45 a.m. Pregnant, Pickles and Skin Care; Treating The Mom-To-Be by Austine Mah (Demo)
10:30 a.m. Simple Steps to a Booming Business by Richard Linder, MBA (Lecture)
11:00 a.m. Waxing: 15 minute Body Parts! by Lori Nestore (Demo)
11:45 a.m. Hot Flashes and Hormones! How to Treat Menopausal Skin by Trish Green (Lecture)
12:15 p.m. “Green” Your Facial Treatments One Step at a Time by Nina Curtis (Demo)

MEDICAL ESTHETIC SEMINAR new


2:00 p.m. The Physician-Nurse-Aesthetician Collaboration: The Value of the Working Relationship
Panel Discussion and Q & A by Carolyn Lockridge, RN, Anna D. Rinehart, CIDESCO Diplomat and Joseph R. Feste, MD
3:30 p.m. Turning you Day Spa Into a Medical Spa by Joseph R. Feste, MD

IN-DEPTH MAKEUP CLASS new


4:30 p.m. Creating Hi-Def Glam by Peggy Segundo

AESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION Education Classes


1:30 p.m. Keeping Your Business Relevant in Changing Times by Kai Kaden
3:30 p.m. The Naked Truth about Nutrition and Skin by Maria Villareal

Monday, May 17th


DED
GENERAL SESSION INCLU
WITH N
SIO
ADMIS
9:30 a.m Skin Disorders: What to Do When You Don’t Know What to Do by Danne M King (Lecture)
10:00 a.m. Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift by Margarita Saian (Demo)
10:45 a.m. Rosacea: Inside Out by Dr. Ben Johnson (Lecture)
11:15 a.m. Balinese Massage by Kim Collier (Demo)
12:00 p.m. Holistic Peels by Anne C. Willis (Lecture)

ADVANCED SALON/SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR


2:00 p.m. Get Noticed! How to Get Referrals, Build Your Client Base, and Expand your Business
by Making a Name for Yourself by Jill Lublin
3:00 p.m. Find the Hidden Money in Your Spa Business! by Douglas Preston
4:00 p.m. Spa Owners: Get Out of the Treatment Room and Into a Better Paying Spa Career! by Douglas Preston

AESTHETICS INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION Education Classes


1:00 p.m. Hands-on Manual Lymphatic Drainage Workshop by Dr. Reinhard Bergel

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Dallas 2010


WORKSHOPS
DED
INCLU
WITH N
ISSIO
ADM
SUNDAY, May 16TH 2:00 p.m. TO 3:30 p.m.
DMK-DANNE MONTAGUE KING CLASS M 1-2
The Canvas Must Be Prepared Before the Paint Goes On! by Danne King and Tommy Parsons

BIO-THERAPEUTIC, INC. CLASS M 3-4


Future is in Hand with bt-GEAR™ Handheld, Intelligent Technology to Ignite Your Business by David Suzuki and Sallie Deitz

PCA SKIN CLASS M-5


Maximizing Results with Chemical Peels by Erin Holder, LE

MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. CLASS M-6


Learn How to Earn Big Bucks Removing All Types of Skin Growths by Lana Yu

A NATURAL DIFFERENCE CLASS M-7


Take Your Technique to New Heights: Putting it All Together With Natural and Chemical Peels by Irene Stuckey

IREDALE MINERAL COSMETICS CLASS M-8


Timeless Beauty by Tricia Campbell

BIO-JOUVANCE, INC. CLASS M 9-10


Setting New Standards in Facial Esthetics Class I: Mineral Matters–Diamond Facial by Sonia Boghosian

RHONDA ALLISON CLINICAL ENTERPRISES CLASS M 11-12


Skin Peeling Techniques and Featured Peel by Rhonda Allison

ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE CLASS CHAMPIONS BALL ROOM 1


Hungarian Secrets for Anti-Aging Massage Techniques-Advanced (Hands-on demonstration)
by Boldijarre Koronczay

SAIAN CLASS CHAMPIONS BALL ROOM 2


Collagen Infusion Therapy & Non-Surgical Neck-Lift by Margarita Saian

EVA’S ESTHETICS CLASS CHAMPIONS BALL ROOM 3


Speed Wax with the Wax Queen by Lori Nestore

EDIMI INSTITUTE FOR SKIN SCIENCES CLASS WORLD SERIES 1


The Relationship Between the Skin and the Internal Body by Michael Tick, Ph.D.

DERMAWARE® BIOTARGETED® SKIN CARE CLASS WORLD SERIES 2


Corrective Peeling: White Out® TCA Speed Peel & Science by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone

YOUNGBLOOD MINERAL COSMETICS CLASS TRIPLE CROWN


Breathe New Life Into Skin With Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics by Philip Luque

REMY LAURE EUROPEAN BEAUTE INC. CLASS SUPER BOWL 1


Healthy Aging with Remy Laure Skin Care by Patty Leung

GEHWOL FOOT CARE CLASS SUPER BOWL 2


Professional and Healthy Foot Treatments by Faiz Johnny Jarufe

OSMOSIS PUR MEDICAL SKIN CARE WIMBLEDON


Healing Melasma and Rosacea Through DNA Repair by Ben Johnson, MD

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Dallas 2010


WORKSHOPS
DED
INCLU
WITH N
ISSIO
ADM
SUNDAY, May 16TH 4:00 p.m. TO 5:30 p.m.
GLYMED PLUS CLASS M 1-2
Pigmentation Peeling by Christine Heathman

SPAWARE SOFTWARE CLASS M 3-4


Building Your Business in a Recession by Blake Rector

PCA SKIN CLASS M-5


Customized Peeling Techniques for Acne and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by Erin Holder, LE

EVA’S ESTHETICS CLASS M-6


Colorblind Skin Analysis by Lori Nestore

IMAGE SKINCARE CLASS M-7


The Art of Chemical Peeling by Devon Perry

302 PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE CLASS M-8


Skin Biology and Esthetics - A New Perspective by Richard Huber

M’LIS COMPANY CLASS M 9-10


New Holistic Research for Post-Cancer Health and Beauty by Linda T. Nelson, Ph.D.

RHONDA ALLISON CLINICAL ENTERPRISES CLASS M 11-12


Developing the Art of Business by Rhonda Allison
DED
INCLU
WITH N
MONDAY, May 17 TH
2:00 p.m. TO 3:30 p.m. ADMIS
SIO

BIOMANI SCIENTIFIC SKIN CARE/MEDICAL AESTHETICS CLASS M 1-2


Recent Advances in Chemical Peels & How to Use Pure Non-Buffered Acids for Best Results by Fathi G. Fam, MD

BIO-THERAPEUTIC, INC. CLASS M 3-4


Bt-Cocktail™ The Ultimate ATP Synthesis: Adenosine Triphosphate, the Mitochondria That Produces Younger Looking Skin
by Sallie Deitz and Cami Martlin

THE WAX CONNECTION FOR EPILLYSS CLASS M-5


The Smooth Man by FiFi, “The French Waxing Diva”

MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. CLASS M-6


Earn Big Bucks Removing All Types of Skin Growths by Lana Yu

302 PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE CLASS M-7


Skin Biology and Esthetics - A New Perspective by Richard Huber

IREDALE MINERAL COSMETICS CLASS M-8


Global Beauty by Tricia Campbell

BIO JOUVANCE, INC. CLASS M 9-10


Setting New Standards in Facial Esthetics Class II: Black Pearl - Caviar Facial by Sonia Boghosian

DERMASWISS CLASS M 11-12


Transform Skin Care and Generate Revenue by Barbara Monteagudo

ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE CLASS CHAMPIONS BALL ROOM 1


The Organic Way: Treating Acne, Rosacea and Eczema with Natural Ingredients (hands-on demonstration) by Boldijarre Koronczay

SAIAN CLASS CHAMPIONS BALL ROOM 2


Acne and Candidiasis (Live Demo) by Margarita Saian

EVA’S ESTHETICS CLASS CHAMPIONS BALL ROOM 3


Brazilian Bikini Waxing by Lori Nestore

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Dallas 2010


exhibitor list
as of April 1st

302 Professional Skincare DPC Int’l, Inc. MD Corrective Care


5 Star Formulators Dr. Jeff Skin Care Medical Aesthetics
A Natural Difference Dr. Grandel Milady
Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts Dr. Schrammek Mineralogie Mineral Makeup
Aesthetics Medical Edge System Corporation National Laser Institute
AIA-Aesthetics International Association Edimi Institute for Skin Sciences New Beginnings
Alex Cosmetic USA Éminence Organic Skin Care Niko Cosmetics
Alexander’s Aesthetics Enspri NuFace
Allegra M. France Epillyss Nufree
Aquavida USA Equipro Oberon Cosmetics
Associated Skin Care Professionals European Beauté, Inc. Osmosis Pur Medical Skin Care
ATI Aesthetics Laser Program & Laser Clinic European Med Spa Institute PCA Skin
B&S Beauty Supply, Inc. Europelab PFB Vanish, Inc.
Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Eva’s Esthetics Physiodermie (Methode)
Beauty Attica, Inc. Eve Taylor (London) Ltd. Pinnacle Cosmetics
Beauty Beauty USA Eye Kandy Cosmetics PLH Products
Beauty Image Fake Bake Prima Diva Lashes by Le Belle Int.
Beauty Wellness & Spa Falcon Int’l Professional Beauty Formulations
Bellaire Industry Fallene Ltd. Purium Health Products
Bio Jouvance, Inc. Farm House Fresh Raw Mens Skin Care
Bio-Therapeutic, Inc. Five Star Formulators Remy Laure
Biodroga Formostar RevitaLash
Biokosmetik of Texas, Inc. Gehwol Foot Care Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises
Bioline Genesis Biosystems
Biomani Scientific Skin Care GlyMed Plus Rosa Graf Cosmetics
Blinc, Inc. Hanna Isul Skin Therapy, Inc. SAIAN
Bodewell Health Mate Sauna Salonwear
Body Sense Midwest Heat Inc Spa Kur Therapy Development Satin Smooth
Bronze Biologic Hollywood Face Microfiber & Sesderma
Bubalina Bamboo Collection Silhouet-Tone USA
Buy Rite Beauty Salon & Spa Equipment HydroPeptide Skin Care Consultants
Caron Wax USA Image Skincare Skin Fitness
Chado-En / Tea Docents Instantly Ageless Skin Script Skin Care
Christina / 5 Star Formulators Iredale Mineral Cosmetics Smockers
Circadia JaCo Distributors Soi
Cirepil Janssen Cosmeceutical Solerra
Cirepil + Escential Waxes JMT Group Spa Source USA
CMS of Holland Kintech USA Spa Manufacture Direct
Coats Aloe International, Inc. Klapp Cosmetics GMBH Spaware Software
Cosmeceuticals International, Inc. La Marquise, Inc. SunFX America
Cosmétiques France Laure Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Studio Beauty
Crown Brush Company Cosmetics Manufacturing Beauty Techniface Aesthetic Solutions
Dadashie Acne System Leo Unlimited, Inc. The Wax Connection
De La Terre Skincare® Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Tint School of Makeup and Cosmetology
Dectro International LightStim International Touché Beauty, LLC
Dermascope Magazine Lotus Moon Unique Edge 2000, Inc.
DermaSwiss M’lis Viora, Inc.
Dermavista Mack Software Solutions, Inc. Vita Mix Corporation
DermAware® BioTargeted® Skin Care Magazine Service Outlet White Professional Tooth Whitening
Diamond Way Ayurveda Martinni Beauty, Inc. Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics
DMK-Danne Montague King Matis Paris Yum Gourmet Skincare

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Dallas 2010


TRAINING SCHEDULE
MAY-AUGUST 2010:

2010 May 9th I 9 am - 3 pm


GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic
product knowledge I Philadelphia, PA

2010 May 10th-11th I 9 am - 5 pm


Beauty in harmony with nature
GREEN PEEL® certification class and
DR. MED. CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK
– A new skin in just 5 days –
advanced product knowledge & treatments
Houston, TX
d. Ch
me .
2010 May 16th I 9 am - 5 pm

.
fro m Dr

Sc
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic THE L

hra m m
A
product knowledge I Long Beach, CA
O RIGIN

ty
i ek
· Q u al
2010 May 16th I 10 am - 4 pm
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic
1. PLACE
product knowledge I Chicago, IL FOR GREEN PEEL®

2010 May 16th-17th


DALLAS SHOW I Dallas, TX

2010 June 7th-8th I 9 am - 5 pm


GREEN PEEL® certification class and
DR. MED. CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK
advanced product knowledge & treatments
Houston, TX GREEN PEEL® herbal peeling treatment
dermatological know-how & cosmetic innovation
2010 June 13th I 9 am - 5 pm
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic What makes the GREEN PEEL® peeling treatment
product knowledge I Las Vegas, NV so successful all over the world? The combination of various natural ingredients.
One active ingredient in particular: pansy extract, which has a soothing, healing,
2010 June 14th I 10 am - 4 pm anti-inflammatory and metabolism regulating effect.
Advanced GREEN PEEL® Body seminar
Las Vegas, NV Interested? We will gladly send
you further information.
2010 June 27th I 9 am - 3 pm
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic
product knowledge I New York, NY
GREEN PEEL® stands for:
· a more beautiful and even complexion
2010 July 12th I 9 am - 5 pm
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic · pure natural plant ingredients
product knowledge I Houston, TX · immediately visible treatment results
· problem solver for blemished, sagging or atrophied skin as well as stretch marks (striae)
2010 August 15th I 10 am - 4 pm · treatment concept proven successful for over 50 years in Germany and abroad
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic · effective combination of nature and the dermatological competence of
product knowledge I Kalamazoo, MI Dr. med. Christine Schrammek-Drusio

2010 August 22nd I 10 am - 4 pm


DR. MED. CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK
advanced product knowledge & treatments
Fort Wayne, IN

2010 August 23rd-24th I 9 am - 5 pm


GREEN PEEL® certification class and
DR. MED. CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK
advanced product knowledge & treatments
Houston, TX before after before after

Midwest Northeast West Southeast Southwest


Regional Distributor Regional Distributor Regional Distributor Regional Distributor Regional Distributor
International Skin Selective Vivari Euro Pacific Inc. Esthetic Supply Company BIOKOSMETIK of Texas, Inc.
6322 Constitution Drive, 247 West 37th St. P.O. Box 70177 P.O. Box 390 4915 S.Main#109
Fort Wayne, IN 46804 New York, NJ 10018 Las Vegas, NV 89170 Orangeburg, South Carolina, 29116 Stafford (Houston), Texas 77477
800-875-2950 877-374-4772 800-445-6364 800-826-1193 800-729-1242
isscosmetics@yahoo.com infovivari@gmail.com oneskin@aol.com paquininc@mindspring.com jocroth@aol.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #166 www.schrammek.de/greenpeelusa.html
ELEMENTS
OF
N AT U R E As early as 1935, chemist Dr Felix Grandel

a state-of-the-art skin care series conducted research into wheat germ and
vitamin E, thus preparing the ground for
highly effective natural skin care products

that uniquely combines nature that are well tolerated by the skin.

Free of ...
and tradition with pure indulgence • preservatives
• parabens
and visible results. • mineral oils
• paraffins
• petroleum components
• silicones
• synthetic fragrances
• colorants
• PEG emulsifiers

ECO Control certified

Fast – reliable – convenient. For more information contact: Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #109 on reader service card

USA – WEST USA – SOUTHWEST USA – MIDWEST USA – SOUTHEAST USA – NORTHEAST CANADA
call: 1-866-693-7006 call: 1-888-266-0820 call: 260-444-2275 call: 1-888-845-1191 call: 1-877-DRG-4SPA (374-4772) call: 1-800-561-3766
grandelusawest@gmail.com Grandelsw@aol.com grandelusa.midwest@gmail.com grandelusa_southeast@ infovivari@gmail.com buymagna@aol.com
www.grandelusa-west.com www.grandelusa-southwest.com www.grandelusa-midwest.com estheticsupply.com www.vivari.us www.magnaesthetics.com
www.grandelusa-southeast.com
skin|summer tune-up
by Carol and Rob Trow

T
HE WINTER THAT RECENTLY hands and feet, consider recommend-
ended was dominated by an on- ing that your clients sleep with gloves
Recommend a
slaught of rain, sleet, snow and and socks, which improve penetration regular home routine
record low temperatures. Most people and prolong the effect of the topical of exfoliation.
were primarily concerned with covering products. You can even suggest that
up and staying protected. Now, with clients follow this routine if they are
summer upon us, our clients’ faces and going to the gym or for a long walk,
bodies can definitely use a tune up! adding moisturizer to hands and feet
Winter, with its low humidity, hot air before putting on shoes and socks.
heating and lack of fresh air can wreak Hair removal gets renewed atten-
havoc on skin. People need to pay atten- tion as the weather warms. Gently ex-
tion not only to the face but also arms, foliate with a mild AHA or even a brown
legs and feet, which are surely in need sugar scrub to facilitate what could be oil or moisturizer with vitamin A (retinol
of first aid after the brutally cold season. a painful reawakening to the joys of hair palmitate or acetate, not retinoic acid).
There are simple ways you can ap- removal. It ideally should be done 48 The dry skin that resembles a river bed
proach getting your clients’ skin back in hours before the procedure. As the skin will vanish in no time.
shape. It is wise to package these treat- has not been acclimated to the pro- Last—but certainly not least—recom-
ment protocols in a series that provides cedure, follow the actual hair removal mend self tanners. Recent developments
extraordinary results for your clients, with an application of a calming gel or have dramatically improved this family of
enhances their loyalty and contributes antioxidant based anti-inflammatory to products, making orange skin a thing of
to strengthening your practice. avoid unsightly bumps. the past. Exfoliation prior to application
A good place to start is a mild, self Looking for the proverbial cure to makes the results of a self tanner even
limiting peel. While we prefer lactic or cellulite is the holy grail of body care better. If your clients are determined to
mild TCA gels, there are many options. A products and procedures. Be careful go out in the sun, make sure the sun-
point to remember with peels is that less not to promise more than you can de- screen they use contains physical and
is more. Many professionals prefer adding liver. There are several excellent topi- chemical blockers coupled with a brigade
or replacing mild peels with microdermal cal products, as well as some machine of antioxidants. Try to deter them from
treatments. When used properly, peels based treatments that can help reduce reaching for products with very high SPF
are an excellent tool for skin rejuvenation. the appearance of cellulite for short pe- ratings, as they may only offer two to five
Following the peel, recommend riods of time. percent more protection than those with
a regular home routine of exfoliation, Recent years have brought on a wave a rating of 20, yet expose your client to
which is necessary to remove the winter of new body wraps that also can play a more chemicals and lead them to believe
buildup of dead, dry skin cells. Explain role in getting ready for summer. Again, they do not need to reapply the product
to your guest how to apply light pres- do not promise too much. While the short every 90 minutes. n
sure while exfoliating, and let them know term results can be amazing, they are not
photo: Image Source/Getty Images

they should be cautious about using a a permanent solution. Carol and Rob Trow are the owners of
scrub that has the potential to create One great way to treat arms, legs, DermaConcepts USA, the eastern U.S.
microscopic tears in the skin. and feet and even dramatically reduce distributor of Environ Skin Care. They
Follow exfoliation with a regimen keratosis pilaris is through a routine uti- author articles for skin care industry pub-
of moisturizing treatments based on lizing mild lactic acid as an exfoliant and lications and are guest speakers at na-
skin type. For enhanced results with penetrant enhancer followed by a light tional and international field conferences.

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 31


build confidence.

increase credibility.
get certified.
Clinicians and physicians nationwide value the benefits of
being PCA SKIN® Certified Professionals. Visit us at booth
#201/203/205 at the International Congress of Esthetics
& Spa in Dallas, Texas, on May 16-17, 2010, to learn more
about becoming a PCA SKIN Certified Professional.
Increase your knowledge and build your practice with
PCA SKIN.

pcaskin.com | 877.PCA.SKIN [722.7546]

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110 on reader service card
photo: Image Source/Getty Images

Page 34 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


skin

THE
COSMECEUTICAL

SELECTING QUALITY SKIN CARE


CHOICE
W
ITH THE INFORMATION EXPLO- the other hand, are applied to the non-living
sion provided daily by the Internet surface of the skin to “cleanse, beautify and
and media, consumers that are in- promote attractiveness.”
terested in anti-aging treatments have many Prior to approval, pharmaceuticals must
options to choose from these days. Confident complete extensive years of safety testing, which
consumers are opting for visible results with can cost millions of dollars. By contrast, cos-
little to no recovery time over surgical proce- metics do not have to prove their claims, but
dures. Noninvasive procedures coupled with may cite “clinical studies” on ingredients used
professional skin care products are a much in their formulations in order to substantiate
more convenient option than going under the their efficacy.
knife. Additionally, it is common sense for any Cosmeceuticals are not officially recognized
clients who decide to invest money and time in by the FDA; the word is actually a marketing
elective cosmetic surgery to prepare their skin term used to define a skin care product that
prior to the actual procedure and take steps to fits the niche between a pharmaceutical and a
promote optimal healing of their skin after the cosmetic. They do have a degree of biological
treatment in order to protect their investment. action, but still classify as “cosmetics,” meaning
Offering professional cosmeceuticals in your the formulas are not required to prove efficacy
esthetics practice provides your clientele with and safety claims. Incorporating ingredients that
the opportunity to purchase products that not may have activity in the skin, cosmeceuticals are
only produce visible results but also fit their marketed for use with professional recommen-
individual skin types and conditions. Clients dations through a physician, day spa, medical
will have a reason to return to your office—for spa or other type of educated skin care profes-
product repurchases that they cannot find in sional, such as a licensed esthetician.
any drug or department store. As a licensed So, why would you choose a professional
skin care professional, your clients trust you to cosmeceutical over a mass-marketed product
BY KRISTA BOURNE

be an advisor who recommends products that that is sold in a drugstore, department store
are not only effective, but also safe. or multi-level marketing company? Below are
Skin care products are separated into two some important points of difference to consider:
specific categories by the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration (FDA): Cosmetics and pharma- • In order to have a therapeutic benefit to
ceuticals. Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate the health of the skin, ingredients must be
through the layers of the epidermis and have formulated to penetrate through the outer
a biological effect on the structure and function layers of the skin barrier to the deeper lay-
of the living layers of the skin. Cosmetics, on continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 35


skin|the cosmeceutical choice

ers of the epidermis; many over-the-counter multivitamin works in our bodies with a mixture
cosmetics are not formulated this way due of vitamins and minerals developed in the right
to the risk of product reactions. proportions for best absorption.
• Over-the-counter products are manufac-
tured and distributed in very large batches, Being an esthetician and not having a chem-
are packed with almost as many preserva- istry degree, I know how confusing it can be
tives as “active” ingredients and often sit to try to figure out product lines. When I was
on warehouse shelves for months before new to skin care, everything sounded amaz-
being shipped to retailers. ing, and product samples were so much fun to
play with. Ultimately, it was daunting trying to
choose from everything out there. Before trying
any particular product, find out the answers to
these questions:

1. Were clinical studies conducted on the


products to prove safety and efficacy?
2. May I see the results of these studies? Many
companies that cite clinical study results do
not provide clinical study documentation.
You sometimes find peer-reviewed cos-
metic formulation studies in dermatology
or cosmetic surgery journals, which lends
more credibility to the testing process.
3. Was an individual ingredient or the actual
finished formulation tested? Since it is not
required by the FDA, it is rare to find a cos-
meceutical company that tests complete
marketed formulations and then offers full
clinical study details for the public to see.
If it was an individual ingredient that was
tested, will it retain its activity and function
in the final formulation?
4. Were the tests conducted in-vitro or in-vi-
P values are • A product line that is unique to your practice vo? It is important to note that many single
gives your clients a reason to keep return- ingredients that test very well for in-vitro
important because
ing to your business to repurchase, even if studies actually have no function in human
they interpret the they are not undergoing procedures. skin when mixed into a formulation. Yet, we
probability of the are still led to believe “clinical study” claims
result. In other words, It is essential to conduct some research from in-vitro data.
a p value of <0.05 before you choose the best formula for your 5. Were the studies double-blind, prospec-
means that if the practice. Many professional cosmeceuticals tive or controlled? What are the p values?
test is conducted use the terms “dermatologist-tested” and 6. Was the formula tested against placebo
“clinically proven” when highlighting prod- cream (such as glycerin or petrolatum),
100 times, the result
uct formulas in marketing pieces. While these another similar product or nothing at all?
will be the same 95 words sound compelling, it is best to interpret
percent of the time. such phrases with caution. Keep in mind that Unless you are familiar with research testing,
cosmeceuticals do not have to prove efficacy these terms can be confusing. When a product
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/James Peragine

claims, thus the special active ingredient touted undergoes the process for FDA approval, the
in the formula only has to appear somewhere gold standard of testing is double-blinded,
on the ingredient labeling. In addition, it is not prospective, randomized, controlled clinical tri-
a one-element wonder that works best for the als against a placebo or approved prescription
skin—it takes a mixture of the right amounts product performed by a third party research
of active ingredients that work together syn- organization. Double blind studies are those in
ergistically for the best results, just like an oral continues

Page 36 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


one takes off
the day. the
other takes
off the years.
Clarisonic is a registered trademark and Opal is a trademark of Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. © 2010 Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc.

NEW

SONIC INFUSION

Give your skin a fresh start with our PRO Sonic Skin Cleansing System that gently massages away the day’s
buildup of dirt, oil, and makeup. Then reveal your skin’s natural youth with our new Opal Sonic Infusion
System. It immediately reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with results that last for hours and
build over time. Let Clarisonic uncover your skin’s true potential for healthy, radiant, younger-looking skin.

Try the sonic experience for yourself. Visit us at clarisonic.com/professionals or call us at 877-825-9633.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #352 on reader service card
skin|the cosmeceutical choice

which neither the participant nor the researcher following questions about the line helps you to
knows which treatment is received. For pro- determine if it meets your needs:
spective trials, data is gathered during the trial 1. What are minimum opening order
itself. Randomized means that the participants or re-order amounts?
are randomly assigned a test or control prod- 2. Are there sample or trial sizes for your
clients to try before purchasing?
3. What kind of marketing support is offered
to help you promote and grow your retail
business?
4. What type of education and training
classes are offered?

After these questions are answered to your


satisfaction, do not forget another very impor-
tant step in your skin care line selection: Try the
product yourself! Your personal preferences are
very important—how can you promote a product
that you do not use or even like? If you have a
separate manager in charge of retail sales, be
sure that your decision involves that person
as well. Include other staff members or select
clients in product sampling, and have them re-
port their likes and dislikes to you. When you
finally decide on a product line to retail in your
uct. A controlled study is one where a panelist spa, your entire support staff should use the
The product line
receives a placebo that does not contain the product so that they are comfortable answer-
you choose must active element, but looks the same as the other ing questions and talking about the line with
also offer support product (with the active). It is also important to your clientele. It is helpful to keep and use the
to you as a retail make sure that the laboratory conducting the product in your backbar for your services so that
client. What type testing is not affiliated with the product line it- clients experience the products for themselves
of education and self in order to provide unbiased information. before purchasing.
training classes P values are important because they interpret Offering a well formulated and tested cos-
the probability of the result. In other words, a meceutical line helps round out your service
are offered?
p value of <0.05 means that if the test is con- offerings. Cosmeceuticals that are retailed in
ducted 100 times, the result will be the same your practice are also an excellent alternative
95 percent of the time. A p value of 0.10 means (or enhancement to) more expensive surgical
the same result happens 90 percent of the time. procedures, and keep your clientele returning to
The term “statistically significant” means that the your office on a regular basis. In your search for
p value must be 0.05 or less. When evaluating safe and effective skin care, remember your loyal
the results of a clinical study, a p value higher clients and trust your judgment to find the safest
than 0.05 means that the clinical data did not and most effective formulas for them. They will
support the claims of the tested product. undoubtedly appreciate your research efforts. n
7. How long was the test conducted? On how
many participants? A product with statistically Krista Bourne is a li-
significant clinical results should have a mini- censed esthetician. She
mum of 12 patients involved in the study. is an education direc-
Granted, most skin care product companies tor at Episciences, Inc.,
do not have such information available because and has held positions in
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Gregor Inkret

it is not required. However, companies that do plastic surgery offices and


manufacture products with this type of clinical medical spas. She co-
evidence are taking the extra step to go beyond authored The New Ideal
marketing hype to prove their claims. in Skin Health with Carl
The product line you choose must also offer Thornfeldt, MD, pub-
support to you as a retail client. Answering the lished in January 2010.

Page 38 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #215 on reader service card
skin

understanding sunscreens

W
ITHOUT QUESTION, SUNSCREEN booths utilize UVC rays, specific topical protec-
is the most important aspect of any tion for UVC is not believed to be necessary.
skin care regimen. It is imperative to UVB rays span from 280-320nm, and are
maintaining treatment results and the preven- thought to be responsible for the majority of
tion of skin cancer. Unfortunately, misleading the sun’s negative effects on the skin. Although
and often incorrect consumer-directed infor- the inflammation and erythema produced by a
mation has led many patients to believe that sunburn is the most obvious change, it is what is
these crucial products are actually harmful. It is happening within the skin that is the most worri-
imperative that all skin care professionals feel some. UVB radiation is responsible for a cascade
comfortable speaking about the importance of events inside the epidermal cells, including
of SPF and are prepared to dispel some of the increasing levels of damaging free radicals and
myths regarding these invaluable products. reactive oxygen species (ROS). In addition, UVB
Also, by developing a deeper understanding causes a reduction of the skin’s endogenous, or
of how sun protection products work to safe- natural, antioxidant levels, making it even more
guard the skin, the clinician is able to identify vulnerable to DNA damage and mutation. The
the most effective sunscreens on the market. UV-induced DNA mutation is the number one
cause of skin cancers. UVB rays can be remem-
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation bered as the rays responsible for burning.
To understand sunscreens, one must first under- UVA radiation ranges from 320 to 400 nm,
stand the ultraviolet light they are designed to and makes up the majority of the rays that reach
screen out. UV light is electromagnetic energy the Earth’s surface. UVA rays are believed to be
ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers (nm). It the primary cause of premature visible aging.
is critical to realize that one does not have to The deeper, dermal penetration of UVA leads to
be outdoors to be exposed. Human beings the breakdown of structural components such
are constantly in contact with UV radiation, as as collagen and elastin. UVA radiation is able
it is emitted from multiple sources including to penetrate glass and most clothing, and its
the sun, tanning beds, black lights, germicidal strength remains constant throughout the day,
lamps, halogen lights and fluorescent and in- which makes daily sunscreen use imperative,
candescent lights. The almost unavoidable ex- even if one remains indoors. Like UVB rays, UVA
posure to UV radiation makes daily sunscreen rays increase cellular oxidation and decrease the
application essential for healthy skin. UV rays body’s natural defense mechanisms. Although
have been officially categorized as a known UVA is thought to play a less significant role in
carcinogen, and as we learn more regarding carcinogenesis compared to UVB, it is still re-
BY JENNIFER LINDER, M.D.

the risks of overexposure, groups such as the sponsible for approximately 20 percent of the
Indoor Tanning Association (ITA) are finally being sun’s cancer-causing effects.
held accountable for their actions. In January
2010, the Federal Trade Commission charged UV protection
the ITA with making false claims regarding the There are thousands of sun-shielding products
health benefits of tanning. currently available in the U.S., and their level of
UV rays are divided into three types: UVA, usefulness varies widely when it comes to their
UVB and UVC. UVC radiation ranges from 200- UVA and UVB screening abilities. The clinician
280nm. Fortunately, UVC is almost completely should be able to identify which products offer
absorbed by the atmospheric ozone and expo- the best protective benefits in order to preserve
sure is minimal. Although light sources such as the health and appearance of their patients’ skin.
germicidal lamps and certain types of tanning continues

Page 40 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


THE SEARCH FOR THE IDEAL
SUN PROTECTION
©Fancy/Veer/Corbis

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 41


skin|the search for the ideal sun protection

Sunscreen agents are classified as physical or chemical. understand what SPF is and often believe that a product’s
A physical sunscreen is an inorganic product that sits on effectiveness is solely determined by the SPF number. It is
the surface and reflects or scatters UV radiation before it important to educate patients and explain that the level of
induces cellular damage. In the past, although physical sun protection is not proportionate with the SPF rating. In fact,
protection was effective, it was often associated with thicker an SPF of 15 provides protection from 93 percent of UVB
product consistency and a white appearance on the skin. rays, SPF 30 protects from 97 percent of UVB rays and an
Proper formulation and smaller particle sizes can alleviate SPF of 60 protects from 98 percent of UVB radiation. Many
these concerns, leading to a lighter and more appealing dermatologists believe that an SPF higher than 30 is of little
product feel. In contrast, a chemical sunscreen is an organic value. In most circumstances, products with an extremely
substance that penetrates the corneocytes and absorbs UV high SPF are thicker and heavier, and because they provide
rays before they affect the skin. Many people avoid chemical minimal added protection, they are often unnecessary. In
sunscreens out of concern for sensitivities. In actuality, reac- addition, people often incorrectly believe that re-application
tions typically occur in response to a product’s base rather is not warranted when using a high SPF product. In reality,
than its active ingredients. Therefore, even patients with nearly all sunscreen products break down and must be re-
sensitive skin should be able to find an effective sunscreen. applied every two hours. Personally, I would prefer my pa-
Numerous ingredients are FDA-approved to either re- tients wear an SPF 15 product daily rather than an SPF 70
flect or absorb UV radiation. Each of these ingredients is only when they are outside.
able to counteract specific wavelengths, and a blend is typi- The term “broad-spectrum” indicates a product’s ability to
cally needed for ideal protection. The following are some protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. At this time, the
of the most commonly used active sunscreen agents in the U.S. has not implemented a rating system for UVA protection.
United States. The only way to ensure that a sunscreen absorbs UVA rays is
to read the ingredient label on the back of the bottle. At least
Sun protection terms defined one of the following must be on an ingredient list in order to
Many of the words that are used to describe sunscreen prod- achieve true broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB protection: avoben-
ucts can be confusing to both the patient and the clinician. zone, ecamsule titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Understanding these commonly used terms can greatly as- Water and sweat-proof claims are false and irrespon-
sist skin professionals in choosing and recommending pro- sible, as there are no such products, and these terms are
tective products. misleading to the patient. Products can however be water
The term “SPF” is the abbreviation for a product’s Sun or sweat-resistant, meaning that they are able to maintain
Protection Factor. It only indicates a product’s ability to screen their protective effects in water for a certain amount of time.
the sun’s burning rays, or UVBs. Consumers typically do not continues

sunblock 101
ingredient wavelengths filtered type of UV protection

physical Zinc oxide 290-400 nm UVB and UVA


suncreens Titanium dioxide 290-400 nm UVB and UVA

chemical Octisalate 260-310 nm UVB


sunscreens Oxybenzone 270-350 nm UVB

Homosalate 290-315 nm UVB

Octyldimethyl PABA
290-315 nm UVB
(Padimate O)
chart courtesy of Jennifer Linder, M.D.

Octocrylene 290-320 nm UVB

Octinoxate 290-380 nm UVB

Avobenzone (Parasol 1789) 310-400 nm UVB

Ecamsule (Mexoryl) 310-400 nm UVB

Page 42 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #178
skin|the search for the ideal sun protection

A study conducted by the University of


California, Riverside, triggered multiple incor-
rect and confusing media reports claiming that
sunscreens actually caused cancer. While the
study itself was valid, its findings were com-
pletely taken out of context in the report. The
research showed that when exposed to UV
rays for prolonged periods of time, sunscreen
ingredients can break down and stimulate cel-
lular oxidation, or free radical damage. While
this seems worrisome, these effects can be
completely avoided through proper reapplica-
tion. In most circumstances, a sun protection
product should be re-applied every two hours,
regardless of SPF number, active ingredients or
water-resistance. Further, the use of sunscreens
formulated with added antioxidants or antioxi-
dant products in conjunction with SPF can also
eliminate this concern. Look for ingredients such
as caffeine, silymarin, L-ascorbic acid, tocoph-
erol (vitamin E), resveratrol and glutathione for
superior protection against sun-induced free
A water-resistant product remains active for up radical damage.
The only way to to 40 minutes of submersion, and a very water-
ensure a sunscreen resistant product maintains results for up to 80 The ongoing search
absorbs UVA minutes. Regardless of a product’s claims, all Locating products with optimal UV-protective
rays is to read sunscreens should be reapplied after swim- blends, potent antioxidants and a cosmetically
ming, sweating, toweling off or vigorous out- elegant feel may seem like a daunting task, but
the ingredient
door activity. once you have found them, your patients will
label on the back
thank you for years to come. Developing knowl-
of the bottle. Dispelling sunscreen edge of the sun-shielding ingredients and their
myths and misconceptions unique UV-protective capabilities will aid you
While the Internet can be an excellent source of in this search. As professionals, we must also
information, it is also often full of erroneous data. research what our patients are reading online
Recently, a consumer-focused website falsely and hearing from other media outlets and be
claimed that many of the available sunscreens prepared to dispel any myths. Educating pa-
on the market do not provide adequate protec- tients on the truth about sunscreen and offering
tion. Such reports create confusion and actually exceptional products promotes overall health
discourage many patients from using any type and beautiful skin. n
of SPF products. The statements made in the
report have been discredited and criticized by
dermatologists and the Skin Cancer Foundation. Jennifer Linder, M.D.,
The frequent misleading claims regarding is a board-certified der-
the biological need for sun exposure for vita- matologist, a fellowship-
min D production can also be confusing for the trained Mohs surgeon
patient. Although it is true that vitamin D is es- and one of the foremost
sential to overall health, research has shown that U.S. experts in the use
the sun is not only a dangerous source of vita- of the cosmetic filler
photo: ©Inga Ivanova/Dreamstime.com

min D, it is also unreliable. The recommended Sculptra. A biomedical


dose of vitamin D for an adult is 1,000-2,000 engineer and chemist,
IU per day. Adequate amounts should be ob- Dr. Linder holds a clinical faculty position in the
tained through milk and fish consumption, vi- department of dermatology at the University of
tamin supplementation and sun exposure from California, San Francisco. Dr. Linder is the chief
normal daily activities while wearing sunscreen. scientist for PCA Skin.

Page 44 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #238 on reader service card
skin

SKIN CARE CAMP


LITTLE CAMPERS, BIG REWARDS

Page 46 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


BY GENA FLORES

S
UMMER IS A MAGICAL TIME, mother of three, understands the anxiety her
where old things are stripped away children face when beginning a new adven-
and new journeys begin. In a fleet- ture. No matter how much her children look
ing three months, gangly children forward to summer camp or even a night away
are transformed into young adults, from Mom and Dad, they are nervous when
and the marketing opportunity of a lifetime for the time comes. Emery combats the problem
estheticians opens up. While many spa profes- by sending a family picture with her children to
sionals are leery about the unstable revenue dur- comfort them at night, as well as cotton balls
ing these balmy months, smart estheticians can scented with mom and dad’s favorite perfume
establish year-round income stability. or cologne to make them feel safe and loved.
An estimated 10,000,000 American chil- A savvy business owner can transform this idea
dren head to sleepaway or day summer camps into aromatherapy necklaces that hold a hid-
that focus on everything from sports, cheerlead- den scent pad containing comforting essential
ing, nature, archeology, science, dance or even oils of lavender or chamomile. The sentimental
the circus, leading to a virtual gold mine that piece of jewelry can be worn year round and
spa professionals can tap into. Not only does passed down from generation to generation,
that younger group of customers in particular creating an emotional tie between their sum-
need direction in skin care regimens to estab- mer experience and your business. It is also a
lish healthy habits, parents are also interested great gift idea for overworked camp counselors.
in unique ideas to help their kids’ summer ex- Bundle the aromatherapy necklace with a variety
perience stand out. of essential oils designed for camp remedies
Parents want to share their favorite expe- such as stress reduction (neroli), headache relief
riences with their children, not only to initiate (peppermint), refreshment (grapefruit), soothing
an emotional bond but also because many of (jasmine) and illness (eucalyptus).
them truly do want their family to have the best Streamlining products is becoming more
life possible. Portia Potter, mother of six and popular as belts tighten and creativity reigns.
grandmother of ten, fondly remembers attend- Spa professionals are leading the trend by shak-
ing camp throughout her childhood and later ing things up and finding multiple uses of tradi-
doing whatever it took to give her children and tional products for increased cost effectiveness.
grandchildren the same opportunity. Potter be- Licensed nail technician Amy Pooker states, “In
lieves that exposing her children to positive role today’s rough economy, people are wanting
models and other campers that shared the same more versatile items in their beauty regimen.”
interests in a safe environment benefitted the Pooker goes on to discuss pure minerals in
child as an individual and the family as a whole. particular, stating that “the right color can be
It is this philosophy, passed down from one gen- used as eyeshadow, lip color, blush and even
eration to the next, that allows spas to expertly added to your nail top coat to use as a custom
link summer camps to a boost in summer sales. nail lacquer.” Additionally, cosmetic brushes
If you have ever been to a sleepaway camp, are a great tool for adding the same minerals
you may remember “mail call,” that uncertain in the hair with temporary fantasy colors as a
time when kids pretended not to care if they fashion statement or adding a sun kissed glow.
got a package or letter from home—and the Mail call kits for summer camp can include
sigh of relief that came when their name was sunscreen, foundation, a variety of mineral colors,
called. Then going back to the cabin with your cosmetic brushes, clear nail polish, disposable lip
friends and ripping open the package to see brushes, nail polish remover and voila! You have
what was inside, sharing the loot and making the essentials for skin, nail and hair cosmetics
photo: © Godfer/Dreamstime.com

memories of a lifetime. Spa professionals can that children will love to share with their friends.
fill the desires of parents to share a special gift, Facial products are safe for the majority of
with the need to manage money effectively. the body, whereas products designed for the
Spa owners can tap into this market simply body are less likely to be ideal for facial use due
by thinking like a parent and then altering the to the difference in the skin’s depth. Estheticians
idea to fit the desired spa image. Crystal Emery, continues

 www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 47
skin|skin care camp

have an advantage over other industries in this area because


of their intimate knowledge of skin and ingredients. For ex-
ample, a toner is typically used to balance pH; however, by
simply adding aloe extract, the enhanced toner can easily
double as a soothing remedy for parched skin. The same
aloe extract can be used alone to mend nail cuticles, soothe
cuts and scrapes and heal superficial burns.
The possibilities for summer retail items are limitless. Travel
size skin care kits can easily range from straightforward cleanser,
toner, moisturizer and sunscreen all the way up to customized
colors, botanicals and aromas. There is an innate desire for
humans to stand out from the crowd while still fitting in with
peers. By having the option of custom blending, spa profes-
sionals can offer consumer trusted products while embracing
the individual’s personality. Teen boys in particular can benefit
from having access to products that do not smell “girly,” in-
creasing the likelihood of that they will successfully follow a skin
care regimen. Kits can be sold either as a stand alone prod-
Limelight Spa’s summer themes uct or combined with skin clearing services to be used before
Celebrate Friendship (week 1): Calling all friends and camp and skin restoring treatments to be used after. By sharing
BFF’s! Campers enjoy making friendship jewelry and knowledge of proper skin care, you are gifting young consum-
other crafts. Each girl receives daily services and partici- ers with a source of support during a problematic time of life
pates in age-appropriate friendship bonding activities. for the skin. Camp is an opportunity to start fresh at a young
Make Me Up (week 2): Campers learn about basic age, and a healthy complexion is important to self esteem.
skin care as they explore the fun world of makeup, col- As a skin care expert, you can identify which products are
ors, skin tones and techniques. Each girl makes their adaptable and cost effective for this purpose, releasing con-
own lip gloss and receives a mini makeup box. At the sumers from the anxiety of figuring out which trouble area
end of the week, they do makeovers, get dressed up to focus on. Highlighting multiple uses of the products you
and showcase their work. sell increases the likelihood that consumers will buy the items
Hairstyling (week 3): Basic hair care is an essential skill you recommend and truly see the value in pure products
for any girl to have. Campers are taught simple braiding that are safe for numerous areas of the body, which in turn
and styling techniques and receive advice about how to can increase the esthetician’s retail sales and strengthen the
care for hair for the best possible results. The girls enjoy client’s trust in your skills and knowledge. Finding new ways
hair accessory related activities and crafts, and perform to utilize the current products you have on hand also helps
a hair show at the end of the week. parents when it comes to packing their children for camp.
Spa Week (week 4): What could be better than a By decreasing the number of individual items needed while
week at the spa? The girls enjoy activities including still meeting the requirements of campers, parents are able
manicures and pedicures and personalize their own flip to rest assured that their children are taken care of—with less
flops! There are many crafts and activities. The session money leaving their own pockets.
ends with a spa party, where each camper receives a
mini-facial, makeup application and plenty of pampering. Target camp directors
Mind Your Own Business (week 5): Campers learn Summer camps are also a great vehicle to market your busi-
business basics this week. From product creation to ness to the community. Camp directors are always seeking
pricing and promotion, the campers learn about what new activities for campers. Spa professionals can easily run
it takes to sell. Activities and crafts enhance their ex- short clinics at camp discussing skin care treatments, facts
perience. The girls prepare a presentation about what about sunscreen and proper application, acne control, etc.
they learn. Great for aspiring entrepreneurs. Estheticians can also bring base cleansers, moisturizers
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Wojciech Gajda

Fashion Week (week 6): Campers have fun with and facial quality colors and aromas and let the campers
style as they make their own accessories and jewelry, fashion their own skin care regimen. Collaborate with the
sharing ideas on how to coordinate outfits and estab- camp to compile a list of parents that would like pictures
lish their own personal style. The week concludes with of the class, and create a database of the information to
a fashion show. use for future marketing. Do this early, while campers have
the most enthusiasm about what they have learned. Send
continues

Page 48 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #129 on reader service card
skin|skin care camp

Daron advises potential customers not to register a mas-


sive number of campers. Make sure that you have enough
staff to handle curious campers who will touch, sniff and try
to see everything that is available. Do not forget to have
parents sign consent forms and inquire about allergies. If
you are going to include waxing, make sure Mom is aware
that her little darling will be having a hair removal treatment.
Spas may want to hire an outside camp director to collabo-
rate with and help to organize the event. That allows the
spa camp director to concentrate on the day to day camp
operations and gives both them and the therapists more
opportunity to focus on their summer guests.
When working with the summer crowd, it is wise to mar-
ket services to parents. No matter how beneficial parents
see camp as being for their children, they may feel anxiety
about it, especially if it is the first time their child is away
from home. Help your clients cope with the transition pe-
riod by offering stress reduction services such as massages
and aromatherapy facials. It is also important to remember
that summer can be a season that brings many insecurities
to the surface for people of any age. As clients peel away
the layers of winter clothing to reveal previously hidden skin,
they will be seeking solutions to firm and tone problem ar-
eas to get ready for bathing suit season. Offer detoxifying
Do not forget to have parents sign treatments that contain essential fatty acids and circulation
consent forms and ask about allergies. boosting essential oils to help flush toxins from the body to
decrease the appearance of bloating and unsightly cellulite.
If you are going to include waxing, make
As their children are gradually transforming into adults, par-
sure mom is aware that her little darling ents can set a healthy example by paying attention to their
will be having a hair removal treatment. own needs as well.
While these strategies are conceived from the idea of
home gift bags with sunscreen samples, your spa menu and summer camp, the marketing techniques can be modified
a gift card for mother and daughter to come and indulge to fit any promotion. Get in the minds of clients, find out
in a real spa service. what their needs and desires are and give them what they
are looking for! Ask a parent what skin care goals they have
Host your own spa camp for themselves and their children. Find out what your cus-
Nona Daron, owner of the Flying Beauticians Spa in Mill tomer’s favorite color and aroma is and add that to their
Valley, CA, has hosted a weekly summer spa camp at her treatments and skin care—make them feel irreplaceable.
facility. Daron’s program consists of five days of health and Play! Find new uses for your current merchandise before
beauty training, six hours each day for a total of $375 per bringing new products into the mix. Fall—and stay—in love
person. The staff at Flying Beautician loved the experience, with your chosen industry as you travel back to the carefree
as well as the teen and tween campers, who showed refresh- days of summer camp. n
ing enthusiasm and excitement to try something different.
Nona says she probably will not combine the spa camp with
the exercise routine again, as the exercise component of the Gena Flores is a licensed esthe-
camp seemed to detract the attention from the primary goal tician, instructor and director of
of the program, which was to teach campers about beauty, marketing and education for Skin
skin care, health and relaxation. The campers can get exercise Blends, a cutting edge skin care
with many other outdoor-type camps and sports. company designed by Estheticians
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/pidjoe

Dyan Bulyar, owner of the Limelight Spa in Jupiter, FL, also for Estheticians. Gena volunteers as
hosts a yearly summer glamour camp for girls ages five to four- the midwest director of the National
teen. The spa receives local media attention for their specialized Aesthetic Spa Network and can be
festivities and has a different theme each week. Camp hours reached at Gena@SkinBlends.com,
are from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and there is often a waiting list. www.skinblends.com or www.nasnbiz.com.

Page 50 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #316 on reader service card
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card
skin|news skin care products and treatments

KEY INTERACTION
Touché Beauty is developing a 7-piece serum-based product
line. The three debut serums are the Caviar Serum for anti-aging,
the Oxygen Serum for revitalizing and the Marine Collagen Serum
for moisturizing. The key to the effectiveness of the formulas is an
advanced technology method called carrier systems that assure that
an action and a reaction take place. www.touchebeauty.com

BOTANICAL BLEND
The Fruitzyme line from
Advanced Rejuvenating
Concepts is made up of MAKING THE GRADE
natural skin care products Stock your shelves with DermaAware’s A+ Smart
formulated to provide the skin Serum™, a revolutionary product that is intelligent
with deep cleansing, gentle enough to know exactly what the skin needs and where
exfoliation and rich moisture. to deliver it in the correct dose and form. The A+ Smart
Fruitzyme products alleviate the Serum provides skin with a multi-dose package of
common symptoms of excess retinol, co-enzyme Q-10, vitamin C and Vital Stem Cell™
oil, inflammation and redness technology. It is a daytime serum designed for age,
that may be associated with pigment, acne and oil control. www.dermaware.com
acne or rosacea, as well as aid
in moisture retention and cell
turnover for dry and dehydrated
skin, says the company.
www.ARCSkinCare.com CLOCK STOPPER Facelift in a Bottle by Instantly
Ageless™ is a revolutionary serum that is clinically proven to
dramatically reverse the signs of aging within a few minutes, says
the company. It can be used every day to diminish fine lines and
wrinkles, minimize crows feet and frown lines between brows,
erase dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, smoothen lines
around the lips and shrink pore size to improve skin’s texture.
An additional benefit is the acetyl hexapeptide-3, a non-toxic
advanced anti-aging peptide known to help prevent lines
caused by facial movements. www.instantlyageless.com

MORE NEWS

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 53


skin|news

SIGHT OF YOUTH
The Rejuvenating & Volumizing The TerraDerma Firming Eye Gel
is the perfect product to take care
Facial from Natural Silk Cocoons of the skin around the eyes. Rich

that has Clients Hooked! with marine collagen and elastin, the
Firming Eye Gel helps to maintain
and support the connective tissue
between the cells for a firmer and
smoother appearance. The soy
extract works to preserve hydration and smooth out
wrinkles, leaving the skin moist and revived with
a cool and refreshing effect. www.pibbs.com

CAFFEINE FIX
The 3090 Coffee Espresso
Mask by Allegra MF utilizes
the power of green coffee to
provide a softening, toning and
antioxidant treatment for the
skin. The caffeine helps redesign
and refine the facial contours,

BOOTH 104-106
according to the company. The
properties of the mask provide
a complete treatment to all skin
types. allegramf2@aol.com
Visit us at ICES in DALLAS
May 16-17 for a Live Demonstration
Ask about our show special!
LASTING
WRINKLE REPAIR
Offer your clients a
wrinkle treatment that
goes a step further
than Botox® with the
Filladerma DUO, a
double action system
designed to produce visible results in one hour. The
Filladerma DUO goes beyond the temporary effects
of Botox as it fills deeper wrinkles from the inside and
prevents the formation of new ones. It regenerates and
reconstructs internal support fabric by stimulating the
production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,
says the company. Mother of pearl soft focus pigments
Se Habla Español Tel/fax: (954)450-96-88 Gabriela N. Nunez create additional immediate improvements in the skin’s
appearance by blurring imperfections such as wrinkles,
FORMULATORS
scars and signs of fatigue. www.fillderma.com
Distributed by 5 Star Formulators
Toll Free: 888.200.3977
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card
Page 54 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #206 on reader service card
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #196
skin|news

ADVANCED INNOVATION INTRODUCING


Performance 3-D from Dr. Grandel combines futuristic packaging
with high-tech skin care. Innovative 3-D technology and a high
concentration of active ingredients is a great alternative to anti-
wrinkle injections for restoring the skin’s youthful appearance.
The Performance 3D series, which consists of a face cream and an
eye cream, leaves the face, neck and décolleté looking youthfully
fresh and radiant, says the company. www.grandelusa.com

GIVE EYES A LIFT


The AccuFirm Serum from Cosmeceuticals
International, Inc. is fortified with
pharmaceutical grade multi-peptides and
barbadensis aloe vera. It addresses major
eye concerns from droopy lids, puffiness,
fine lines and wrinkles. Results are visible
in 30 seconds, and accumulate with
continuous use. www.youthfulimage.org

TENSION TAMER
Help your clients calm their nerves and let
the troubles of their world slip away with
the Anti-Stress Cream from Edimi™ Skin
& Body Care. It can be applied on inner
ankles, wrists, elbow creases and behind the
ears. It is also great for rosacea, according
to the company. www.edimi.com

CRUSH THOSE CROWS FEET!


Dr. Jeff ® Collagen Eye Pads with Oligopeptides,
infused with freeze-dried collagen and
oligopeptides from hibiscus esculentus seeds,
is specially formulated to relax and smooth fine
lines around the eye area. They gently achieve a
Botox® like effect without any irritation. Rich in
free-radical fighting antioxidants, the eye pads
moisturize and revitalize mature skin, making it a
valuable add-on eye treatment. www.dr-jeff.com
TOUCHE BEAUTY LLC

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243


May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 57
2 BIOENERGETIC SKIN ELIXIR
1 PROTECTIVE HYDRATION Help your clients stay toned in between
Protect any skin type from sun visits to your spa with the Ambra-Lift™
damage and minimize all visible from Elina Organics. Key ingredient
signs of aging with the IntenC Baltic amber energizes cells, stimulates
Day Cream SPF 40 from Five muscle and skin to become more firm
Star Formulators, a light- and supple. www.elinaorganics.com
textured, non-oily and paraben
free SPF-40 moisturizing cream.
It is formulated to increase
elasticity, elevate moisture
and leave skin toned and
balanced, says the company.
www.5starformulators.com

3 SMOOTH
ELIMINATION
The Bio Jouvance Paris
Slimming & Firming Microgel
is formulated with marine
and botanical extracts that
help stimulate the lymph flow
and circulation to eliminate
excess fatty deposits and
13
toxins from congested
tissues, says the company.
www.biojouvance.com
11 14

12 15

16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25

26 27 28 29 30
16 17
31 32 33 34 35
5 TRAP IN THE BEAUTY
13 Try out an amazing new product
for moisture retention and skin
21 22
protection with the Nutriboost
Ultra Cocooning Cream from

11 14 26
Decléor’s new NutriDivine range. 27
4 SWEET TOOTH SATISFACTION It intensely nourishes the skin, boosts
lipid production, restores water
Help your clients unwind from the hot sun with a relaxing body or
foot massage with Whoopie! from Farmhouse Fresh, a supple and balance over the long term, brightens
the complexion and promotes cell
sweet smelling blend of shea and cocoa butters, jojoba seed oil,
12 15
soybean oil, aloe and vitamins A and E. Whoopie! is designed to 31
renewal as it wraps dry skin in a
protective cocoon and prolongs
32
improve the skin’s elasticity, and the aloe and vitamin E help to calm
skin’s irritations and sunburns. www.farmhousefreshgoods.com youthfulness. www.decleor.com

16 17 18 19 20
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW PACE
Page 58 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Get your spa ready for the

SUMMER year’s hottest season with the


latest and greatest products

BARE ALL
for summer treatments and
retail madness! The following
pages display an abundance
of outstanding products to
meet your clients’ needs
both in and out of the
treatment room during this
sunny time of year. 4

13

11 14
13
12 15
11 14
16 17 18 19 20
12 15
21 22 23 24 25
16 17 18 19 20
26 27 28 29 30
13
21 22 23 24 25
31 32 33 34 35 11 14
26 27 28 29 30
13
12 15
31 32 33 14 34
11 35
16 17 7 SHINE-FREE 19
18 SUN CARE 20
Jan Marini’s Antioxidant Daily

12 15
Face Protectant SPF 30 is
comprised of an impressive
21 22 23
concoction of high tech
24
ingredients. The lightweight,
2
non-greasy formula ensures long
6 17 18 19 20 lasting coverage for extended

26 27 28
exposure conditions with a
29
broad spectrum SPF 30 rating
that is highly water resistant,
6 BANISH ANY BLEMISH!
1 22 23
The Epifactor Bio Skin Restoration Gel24 25is designed to transform all
from DermaSwiss
says the company. Excess oils
are trapped and eliminated by
types of skin problems. Derived from natural herbal extracts, it is made with an anti-aging
molecule. Epifactor stimulates cellular proliferation, regeneration, restoration, healing, 31 32 33 34
microscopic sponge technology,
leaving a matte finish free of oil
metabolic improvement and wrinkle reduction. It can be used to treat scars, peelings,
6 27 28 29 30
microdermabrasions, laser treatments, burns and rosacea. www.dermaswiss.com
and shine. www.janmarini.com

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 59


summer bare all
10 SAFE AND
BEAUTIFUL
9 FLAB DETOX HydroPeptide® SPF 30
The new Cellulite Oil from TheraVine™’s Sculpt-O- delivers a sun kissed glow
Vine™ range contains essential oils of lemon, fennel without the risks. The
and grapefruit that boost blood circulation and aid revolutionary sunscreen
in the elimination of toxins, says the company. It is adjusts to the color of the
designed to be used morning and night to detoxify, user’s skin tone to enhance the
eliminate fat cells and smooth dimpled areas to complexion and offer flawless
result in a firmer form. www.theravineusa.com coverage with a blend of anti-
inflammatories and antioxidant
protection, says the company.
www.hydropeptide.com

8 SANDAL-READY FEET
The Crystal Colour Foot Spa
from Klapp Cosmetics is the
perfect treatment to keep
feet looking great during the
summer, a time when they
are so often exposed. It uses
natural active ingredients
and beautiful aromas to
13
give the special spa foot
bath a wonderful wellness
feel. The key ingredient
is Klapp’s Crystal Powder,
11 14
which is simply combined
with tepid water and a

12 15
dissolving solution to create
the treatment formula.
www.klapp-usa-shop.com

16 17 13 18 19 20

21 11 1423
22 24 25
13
26 12 1528
27 29 30
11 14
16 17 31
18 3219 2033 34 35
13 12 15
21 22 23 24 25 14
11 18 11 ALL20
19
16 17 DAY
SUN CARE
Your clients will be drawn

26 27 28 29 30 15
to the Sun Care Hair and

22 12 23
Body Cleanser by Aveda
21 24 25
on your shelf, a color
safe formula that gently
and effectively removes

31 32 33 34
16 35 20
17 26 18 27 19 28 29
chlorine, salt and product
30
residue from the hair and
body while maintaining
moisture balance.
www.aveda.com
21 22 31 23 32 24 3325 34 35
26 27 28 29 30
Page 60 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
14 DEFENSE
FROM DRYNESS
13 PEEL TO PURITY Biologique Recherche has
Encourage your clients to optimize their shower created Huile Bénéfique, a rich,
routines during these beach days with the luscious oil for the body and
Refreshing Shower Peeling from Biodroga face that nourishes the skin and
Systems. The lightly lathering gel with peeling guards it against dehydration
granules provides a thorough cleansing and throughout the year. The pure
a mild peeling, gently removing dead surface luxury product is formulated with
flakes and activating microcirculation, says the rare essential oils and plant extracts 15 BEACH-
company. Sesame oil optimizes the moisture that leave behind glowing skin. READY BODY
level of the skin, leaving behind supple skin www.biologique-recherche.com Offer your clients the
and a healthy glow. www.biodrogausa.com perfect formula to help
them unwind after a
scorching day in the
sun with Skin Blends’
all natural Comforting
Body Oil, which contains
added essential oils that
are great for the skin!
www.skinblends.com

12 REFRESHINGLY
SOOTHING
The refreshing Shea Butter
and Mint Moisture Balm 13 13
from Éminence Organics
is a combination of organic
avocado, tea tree and
peppermint oil and shea 11 14 11 14
butter. The soothing moisture
balm leaves behind soft skin.
13
www.eminenceorganics.com
12 15 11 14 12 15

17 18 19 20 19 20
16 17 15 18
12
22 23 24 25 18
21 22
19 20 23 24 25 1
16 17
27 28 29 30 26
21 22 23 27
24 2528 29 30 11 1
13
32 3326 3427 35 28
31 32
29 3033 34 35 12
11 14
32 33 34 35 16 17 18 19
31
12 15
21 22 23 24
18 19 20
16 OCEAN MAGIC
Present your clients with a shower product that will keep them glowing 26 27 28 29
23 24 25
all summer long! The Sea Spa Glow Natural Exfoliator with Dead Sea
Salts from Repêchage is loaded with salt minerals that deliver a full
spectrum of beauty delivering elements. Dead Sea Salts are known to
replenish minerals important to skin metabolism, open pores and slough
31 32 33 34
28 29 30
away dead skin cells, giving skin that healthy glow! www.repechage.com

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 61


summer bare all

20 UNDO THE DAMAGE


Remove any unwanted tan with an innovative
formula from South Seas Skincare. The
Uh Oh! Self Tan Remover is made from
natural enzymes and microdermabrasion
crystals to instantly smooth away
unsightly results of sun exposure.
www.southseasskincare.com

18 SUBTLE SCREENING
13
Image Skincare’s Tinted Solar Defense
13
11 14
Organic SPF 30 offers smooth, even coverage
in a universal tint, daily moisture and broad
spectrum physical UVA/UVB protection.

11 14
It is enriched with essential vitamins and
antioxidants that prevent free-radical damage.
www.imageskincare.com
12 15
12 15
16 17 18 19 20
16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25
21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30
26 27 28 29 30
31 13 32 33 34 35
31 32 33 34 35
11 14
13
12 15
11 14 16 17 18
16 17 18 19 20
12 15 21 22 23
21 22 23 24 25
18 30 19 20 26 27 28
26 2716 17
28 29 21 CLEAR
PROTECTION
17 SMOOTH
UV Defense SPF32
31 33
SkinCeuticals’ Sheer Physical
21 22 23 25
35 24
SUMMER SKIN 50 is a

31 32
The revolutionary broad-
33
spectrum perfecting protection
34 transparent, mattifying and
paraben-free fluid. The
SPF 30 from PCA Skin® provides 19 ZIT ZAPPER sheer, silky formula spreads

26 27
the skin with five melanogenesis
inhibitors in addition to
28
name promises. Glycolic 30 the skin while
29 acid exfoliates
Ladyburd’s Acne Treatment Gel does exactly what its
evenly, dries quickly and
leaves behind no residue,
UV protection, which work glycerin and aloe moisturize and soothe. Witch hazel
says the company.
together to reduce existing skin acts as an astringent to help control oil and licorice
www.skinceuticals.com
discoloration while preventing root extract reduces the appearance of redness. The

31
future hyperpigmentation.
www.pcaskin.com
32 33 34 35
powerful gel is perfect for oily and acne prone skin.
www.ladyburd.com

Page 62 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


11 14

12 15
25 YOUTHFUL GLOW
23 UV FREE
GLOW 16 17 18 19 20 Bronzed DN-Age
Rhonda Allison’s
Self-Tanner produces a natural and
Fake Bake’s Airbrush long lasting glow as it reverses the
Self-Tanning Spray signs of sun damage and aging.

25
is an exclusive
21 22 23
Its key ingredient is cassia alata, a
formula with a high
content of DHA and
24
natural protective system that fights
photo-aging and damage from
erythrulose, which
bond with individual
free radicals and DNA induced by 26 RAPID RELIEF
skin pigments.
26 27 28 29 30
UV rays. It is also used to enhance
collagen production and reduce
This summer stock your
spa with PFB’s numb-
The technology
transports the active 13
hyperpigmentation and age spots.
www.RhondaAllison.com
IT™. The fast acting
topical anesthetic gel
ingredients to is designed to take the
deeper layers of the
31
skin to result in a tan 32 33 34 113514 sting out of hair removal.
It is great for pain relief
that is intense, even from waxing, electrolysis
and natural looking, and laser treatments.
says the company. Numb-IT also helps
www.fakebake.com
12 15
relieve itching associated
with minor skin irritations,
inflammation and rashes.
www.pfbvanish.com

16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 13 24 25

26 27 28 14 29
11 30

1335 16 17
31 32 33
12 15 34
11 14 21 22
16 17 18 19 20
12 15 26 27
21 22 23 24 25
16 17 18 19 20 31 32
2226 ENRICHED SHIELD
27 28 29 30
25
Now you can offer your clients an
21
elegant sun protection alternative 22 23 24
32
with the Solar Protection Formula
31
TIZO3 SPF 40. The tinted 33 34 35
formulation of iron and zinc oxides
offers sheer and elegant 26
protection
with a smooth and silky matte finish.
27 28THE PAIN 29
24 EASE 30
www.fallene.com The Trauma Drama Solution from Bikini Kitty is a healing spray that soothes skin with
lavender, strengthens it with the powerful witch hazel and protects it with the anti-infection
benefits of tea tree oil. Use it after waxing services and offer to your clients as an optional
31 32 33 34 35
add-on sale to use at home to strengthen delicate skin in waxing areas between treatments.
www.smoothspaskincare.com
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 63
13
summer bare all
28 EYE-SCREEN
Stock your shelves with
11 14
Murad’s Essential-C Eye
Cream SPF 15. In addition 30 UV FREE GLOW
27 SVELTE SHAPE-UP to protecting and hydrating Your sun shunning clients will love
Try Klapp’s new Body Bandages
from the company’s Alternative
the delicate eye area, it
restores youthful elasticity
12 15
Fake Bake’s new Bronzy Babe Pressed
Powder Soft Sheer Bronzer, a luxurious
Medical product line for your and firmness to the area powder that creates a beautiful and
summer slim-down services. They and softens the appearance natural looking bronzy glow, says
are wrapped around problem areas,
where they tighten connective 16 17
of lines and dark circles,
says the company.
18 19 20
the company. It contains oil-control
ingredients to prevent shine.
tissue. Caffeine helps stimulate www.murad.com www.fakebake.com
drainage and activates a fat-
splitting enzyme to decompose
fat, while Centella asiatica has
a firming and regenerating
21 22 23 24 25
effect on overstretched areas.
www.klapp-usa-shop.com
26 27 28 29 30

31 32 13 33 34 35
11 14
13
12 15
11 14
16 17 18 19 20
12 15
21 22 23 24 25
16 17 18 19 20
26 27 28 29 30
13
21 22 23 24 25
31 32 33 34 35
11 14
26 27 28 29 30
12 15
29 CAFFEINE FIX 31 32 33 3431 LASTING
35LUMINOSITY
PRIORI’s CoffeeBerry
19 20
France Laure introduces its
16 17
Natural Daily Protection
SPF 25 creates optimum 18 RévoluSolaire30 Corrective
in a genuine cream to powder
skin protection against compact with a perfect color
the sun’s damaging UV balance of pigments that create an

25
rays, and serves as a
21 22
daily brightening skin
regimen. It has a light
23 24
impeccably natural complexion.
The long lasting, lightweight
RévoluSolaire30 Corrective
color that melts and contains ultra fine scattered
blends with all skin tones
26 27
to provide a sheer layer
of naturally beautiful
28 29 30 actives that provide maximum
protection against environmental
aggressions and premature aging.
and protected skin. www.francelaure.com
www.prioriskincare.com

31 32 33
Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com 34 35 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
13

34 SUMMER RENEWAL 35 SUN11 14


RECOVERY
Phyto-C’s Pro-Heal Serum
Refresh skin with the bT-Infusion™ Seaweed Masque
from Bio-Therapeutic. The powerful mask detoxifies skin
and encourages cell renewal while anti-inflammatory
13 provides antioxidant
protection from UV damage

12 15
by increasing cellular
properties even skin tone and botanicals leave a silky
integrity and facilitating
smooth feel. The mask is designed to add texture and
11
viscosity control to formulations and tighten skin. 14 collagen production to
diminish fine lines and
www.bio-therapeutic.com
13 20
wrinkles, promote elasticity,
19
16 17 18 even tone and smoothen
the skin while reducing
12 15 14
11
symptoms and conditions
of rosacea and acne.
32 PRETTY PROTECTION
21
The PurePressed Base from jane iredale 22 23 24
www.phytocskincare.com
25
is a non-comedogenic base that functions
16 17
as a concealer, foundation, powder18 19 20
and sunscreen all in one. It comes in 24 12 2815 30
26
shades to suit every possible skin tone.
It creates a soft focus effect diffusing
27 29
21 22 23 18 24 1925 20
the appearance of fine lines, pores and

16 17
wrinkles, and provides a matte finish.
www.janeiredale.com
31 32 33 34 35
26 27 28 29 30 13
21 22 23 24 25
11 14
31 2632 27 33 2834 35 30
29
121315
31 32 33 34 35
16 17 18 1119 1420

21 22 23 1224 15 25
27 28 1929 20 30
1626 17 18

2131 2232 2333 34


24 2535

26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35

33 CUTTING-EDGE
Osmosis introduces their cutting-edge Catalyst Skin Restoration
Serum with SRGF-7 (Skin Repair Growth Factor). SRGF-7 rejuvenates
DNA/RNA by promoting the repair of damaged strands, stimulating col-
lagen production and regulating pigment production, says the company.
The serum works to reduce cellular inflammation, a contributing factor to
skin aging, and delivers a dramatic improvement of melasma, age spots,
UV damage, redness or broken capillaries. www.osmosisskincare.com
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 65
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #146 on reader service card
spa|tiny terrors
By Nadine Toriello

W
ARM WEATHER IS FINALLY
here and the beach beck-
ons! Spa goers sporting cute
swimsuits are slathered in sunblock, gear-
ing up to enjoy their day. It starts off as a
perfect afternoon of fun in the sun until
they eventually wade into the ocean,
never suspecting that a vicious predator
lurks beneath the waves ready to attack.
No, the predator is not Jaws, but
rather microscopic larvae of the thimble
jellyfish and other ocean stingers com-
monly known as “sea lice.” (True sea
lice are actually marine parasites that If someone thinks they have been exposed to the
only affect fish.) These so-called sea larvae, they should get out of the water immediately,
lice are sometimes half a millimeter remove their swimsuit and shower thoroughly.
in length or smaller, and can become
trapped between the bathing suit and
the skin or compressed in crevices like Rashes and blisters from the stings may histamines such as Benadryl may help
the armpit, causing the stinging cells be very painful, and could result in a se- to relieve the itching. There are some
(called nematocysts) to react. rious infection due to repeated scratch- products, such as Safe Sea, that are
These larvae are found year-round ing. Severe reactions may include fever, designed to repel the jellyfish larvae
in the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, chills, headaches, nausea and vomiting, and prevent the stingers from attach-
South America and the Caribbean, but most commonly in children. Symptoms ing to the skin. As estheticians, we
can do their damage from April to may not appear for up to six hours after should not do any services on clients
August along both U.S. coasts. The lar- exposure to the larvae, and last anywhere who have been stung until the affected
vae may cluster in high concentrations from two days to two weeks. skin has healed.
called “clouds” or “blooms.” They can If someone thinks they have been Bikini waxing must wait until the cli-
be seen by the naked eye but become exposed to the larvae, they should get ent is healed and there are no signs of
almost invisible in the water, so they out of the water immediately, remove swelling, blistering or lesions.
can only be detected after the damage their swimsuit and shower thoroughly. We can all enjoy the summer months
has been done, when a rash appears Do not rinse with fresh water while still on the beach, but remember to bring
on the victim. in the swimsuit! Any stinging cells still in the sunblock, sunglasses, good reading
Common symptoms of a sea lice at- the fibers of the bathing suit may release material and a healthy fear of the tiny
tack may include an intensely itchy red more venom. Do not put the swimsuit terrors that lurk beneath the surface! n
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Joe Lena

rash with small blisters and swelling of back on until it has been properly laun-
the skin. These lesions can appear any- dered with detergent and dried.
where on the body, but tend to be con- Vinegar and meat tenderizer are Nadine Toriello is the owner of All About
centrated in areas covered by a swimsuit, common home remedies to relieve You Day Spa in Key West, Florida. She is
as large numbers of larvae often become the itching and burning from sea lice. also an esthetician, licensed body wrap
trapped between the fabric and the skin. Hydrocortisone cream and oral anti- specialist and a CEU provider in Florida.

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 67


BY JERI ROSS

M
ANY CLIENTS CONFESS THAT CEL-

photo: ©2010 Jupiterimages Corporation


lulite can and does sabotage their
self-esteem. Cellulite is the stubborn
fat caught between bands of connective tissue
that creates a lumpy appearance on the hips,
buttocks and thighs of most women.
In fact, 90 percent of women are affected by
morale busting cellulite. Your research and pro-
fessional recommendations to your clients can
help them to remedy these unsightly dimples
and be extremely helpful to their self-esteem
struggles. While there is no magic pill or miracle
cream to banish the bumps, there is hope in
a complete holistic approach to the problem.

Five-step cellulite
revitalizing program
1. Professional relationships: Trust creates
compliance. According to Jenny Norris, a li-
censed massage/body therapist practicing at
Institut’ DERMed in Atlanta, GA, one of the pri-
mary components in a successful cellulite pro-
gram is to create a trusting, non-judgemental
relationship with female clients that enables
them to feel safe to openly talk about their
bodies and how cellulite impacts their life. “I
ask my client why they want a consultation from
me and what results are they expecting,” she
explains. “I assess how committed they are
and then create a program tailored to meet
their needs. The majority of women who try to
make a change by following the program rec-
ommendations get results.”
You may want to ask some of the following
questions during your initial assessment:
• How do you feel about having cellulite?
• How uncomfortable, tender or painful is it?
• What actions would you consider taking to
reduce your cellulite?
• What kind of results do you want
from the cellulite program?

SELF-ESTEEM

SABOTEURTHE INCENTIVE FOR ADOPTING A HEALTHIER LIFESTYLE

Page 68 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


spa

2. Client education: Information is power. 4. Spa treatments: A body in good hands.


Keep a brochure that explains the cause of cel- A fundamental benefit to coming to a spa or
lulite so the client understands what she can do clinic for a series of cellulite treatments is stress
to reduce it and prevent it from getting worse. reduction. Studies have shown that stress can
The simple explanation for why women develop be a trigger for cellulite. Stress increases levels
cellulite revolves around these main factors: of cortisol, which signals the body to store fat.
• The female skin structure is made up of Women are known to be the gender that always
chambers that trap fat cells. takes care of others, and a spa treatment cre-
• Estrogen, the female hormone, increases ates the time, space and solitude for a woman
fat storage in women, which is one reason to relax and have her own needs taken care of.
that women have cellulite and men do not.
• As we age, collagen and elastin bundles
break down, which weakens the dermis and
During your initial consultation with your
causes fat pockets to protrude upward and
make cellulite more noticeable.
client, ask her to write down positive body
Programs that include stimulating circulation, image affirmations as part of her treatment plan.
detoxification, building a healthy skin barrier
and reducing the size and number of fat cells
have a good track record for diminishing cel- In today’s world of cellulite programs, there
lulite. There is no permanent cure for cellulite, are multiple modalities that have proven to be ef-
so behaviors adopted to address the condition fective for reducing its appearance. Non-surgical
are really habits that need to be followed for a methods include but are not limited to: manual
lifetime. In other words, consuming junk foods lymphatic drainage, endermologie (motorized
with little to no nutritional value, lack of exer- suction/rolling), carboxitherapy, mesotherapy,
cise, stress, etc.—it all matters when it comes to radiofrequency, ultrasound, micro-current and
cellulite, and the lifestyle changes made must infrared light. The latter is designed to increase
endure over time. lymphatic drainage and superficial blood flow,
tighten the skin, promote lipolysis or fat burning
3. Positive body image: You are what you and stimulate production of collagen and elastin.
think. Evidence supports the theory that what Cellulite treatment wraps can restore, revital-
you think is what you create. Many women ize, rejuvenate and relax the body and provide
view their body as an enemy that they dislike a sense of renewed energy. Clinical benefits
or even hate because it does not fit the mold include exfoliation, detoxification and improve-
of how she has been programmed to think it ment in skin texture. Exfoliation also promotes
should look in order to be attractive to others. the skin’s receptivity for better penetration of ac-
Dislike for one’s body results in a discontent tive ingredients in therapeutic cellulite products.
that almost always leads back to the same
shape she is trying to avoid. A positive at- 5. Home care: Transforming the ritual into
titude matters. It needs to be cultivated and a lifestyle. Your client sees you once or twice a
included in any cellulite program, especially week for just one hour during her cellulite pro-
for long term results. gram, which means that she is on her own most
During your initial consultation with your of the time. Your job is to provide her with an
client, ask her to write down positive body im- easy to implement and consistent home care
age affirmations as part of her treatment plan. program that includes using clinical cellulite
Some examples are: “I love my body!” “I can products on a daily basis, exercise, a healthy
do my 30 minute walk four times a week.” “I diet and increased water intake.
will make it to all of my spa appointments.” “I Compliance with using home care products
will use my products at home and drink more starts in the treatment room. It is a wise idea
water.” “I can have the smooth legs I want so to use the products you are recommending
I feel better wearing shorts.” in the treatments you provide to create a pro-
When your client starts doing healthy things fessional value for their importance in a daily
for herself and sees results, she will be encour- home care regime. 4
aged to adopt even more healthy practices. continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 69


spa|self-esteem saboteur

Body Smoothie
protein shake:
In a blender, mix the
following ingredients:
1 banana
1/4 cup frozen berries
2 cups unsweetened soymilk
1/2 cup raw, organic
sunflower seeds

1 tbsp fish oil


2 tbsp non-gmo soy
or whey protein

According to Gustavo Leibaschoff, M.D., cellulite-free body by providing fiber and many
The Body
cosmeceutical cellulite products are reported other essential vitamins, minerals, enzymes, an-
Smoothie is a to accelerate and help maintain non-surgical tioxidants, anti-inflammatories, plant proteins
delicious and and surgical based treatment results when used and even a phytohormone from soy milk that
low calorie for home care. In order for topical products to helps balance estrogens in the female body.
treat that is improve the condition of cellulite, they must
perfect for a address multiple pathological changes. Look Hydration: Water enables nearly every
firm summer for products with these ingredients to stimu- part of the human body to function efficiently.
late circulation and increase micro vascular flow Considering that almost two thirds of our bodies
physique.
(sea minerals, niacin, acetyl carnitine, guarana are made up of water, it is important to under-
seed extract and caffeine), lymphatic drainage stand water’s role in a healthy lifestyle. Annette
(essential oils of geranium, rosemary, juniper Richardson, managing director of One Medical
berry, cinnamon leaf) and skin renewal (wild yam Group in Newport Beach, CA, offers the follow-
extract, matrixyl peptides, glycolic acid, alpha ing suggestion to her Synergie clients: “Carry a
lipoic acid, essential fatty acids). The more ef- water bottle that contains all of the water you
fective products also contain liposomes to assist need to drink in a day to take the guess work
with active ingredient penetration to subdermal out of it.” Her formula for figuring out how much
layers of the skin. her clients should drink is based on weight. A
woman needs to drink half of her weight in
Nutrition: Most of your female clients know ounces daily. For example, if she weighs 120
which foods are good for them and which are pounds, she needs to drink 60 ounces a day.
not. To address cellulite, a diet needs to be
based around fresh produce, healthy fats and Exercise: When you work out, you burn
lean proteins. Avoid processed foods, such as 15 times as many calories as you do when you
those containing white flour, sugar and trans are sitting still. And even when you stop, your
fats. Eating organic foods does not bring any metabolic rate is increased, so you continue
extra toxins into the body, which is also helpful. burning calories six to ten percent faster for up
Green tea and yerbe mate stimulate metabo- to 12 hours. You also lose weight when you gain
lism. You can suggest these as replacements for muscle mass. Fat does not burn any calories,
photo: © Kineticimagery/Dreamstime.com

coffee. Look for foods sweetened with xylitol, while one pound of muscle burns 35 calories
a naturally occurring sugar found in fruits and per hour. In addition, exercise stimulates circu-
vegetables. It is absorbed slowly by the body, lation. Five times as much blood flows through
creating a steady blood glucose level. your arteries and veins when you work out as
The Body Smoothie is a delicious and low when you rest, and that blood is packed with
calorie treat that is perfect for a firm summer oxygen and nutrients. Exercise even boosts the
physique. It enhances energy and supports a continues

Page 70 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #192 on reader service card
spa|self-esteem saboteur

As the trusted professional,


you can make a difference in
bringing that body ecology
Institut’ DERMed cellulite treatment, courtesy of Institut’ DERMed
back into natural balance.

lymph flow that enhances detoxification of the


body. Put all of this together, and it is easy to
understand how exercise works to effectively
reduce cellulite.
One of the most successful ways to stay with
an exercise plan is to have a “body buddy,”
someone with whom you make a mutual com-
mitment to meet at the gym, take a walk, jog or
do any other form of exercise you agree to do
together. The best plans include both cardio and
strength training at least four times each week.

Conclusion
Everything in life has a balance. The female body
showcases how intricate biological systems can
easily get thrown off, especially in modern times
with incessant demands. As the trusted profes-
sional, you can make a difference in bringing
that body ecology back into natural balance.
Your knowledge, dedication and caring for your
clients’ cellulite issues changes lives for the bet-
ter. The Cellulite Five-Step Revitalizing Program
is a useful guide for creating physical beauty
and health that lasts a lifetime for the women
that have the privilege of being your client. n

Jeri Ross is president


and CEO of LJR, Inc. and
creator of Cellu­liteRx™
products. In 2006 she
joined her sister, Lyn
Ross, owner of Institut’
DERMed, to contribute
her research skills to­
wards the development
of advanced cosmeceutical skin and body
care formulations. For more information, visit
www.idermed.com, www.celluliterxworks.com,
or contact her at jeri@idermedody.com.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #318 on reader service card
Page 72 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Mother Nature for Moms
This Mother’s Day ilike organic skin care offers potent treatments that target hormonal
imbalances, one of the primary sources of skin problems for menopausal and peri-
menopausal women – an estimated 40 million American mothers – resulting in breakouts,
lack of elasticity and premature aging. The phytoestrogen products of ilike effectively treat
the source of these symptoms with organically grown herbs, such as Red Clover, Hop,
Flaxseed, Yucca and stimulating Hungarian Paprika. Learn more about the symptoms
and treatments of hormonal imbalances by contacting ilike organic skin care and make it
a day she won’t forget!

Discover the difference between real pulps and extract…


and let your skin decide!
BDIH certified, all natural, paraben free.

1•888•290•6238 www.szepelet.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #274 on reader service card
Totally New Lush Microfiber Microfiber Snap-On Wrap
w/ AEGIS Antibacterial Protection
®
w/Microban® Antibacterial Protection

One Size Fits All


Fully Adjustable to Open
in Any Direction
4” x 4”
8” x 8”
12” x 12”

16” x 27”
Pink
28” x 50”

Available Sizes: White


36” x 76” Bath Sheet
58” x 85” Blanket Sand

White Pink Lilac Sand Olive Cocoa Camel

Velvety Soft, Super Absorbent, Lint & Odor Free Size: 63”W x 35”L
Olive
NEW
for 2010

Radiant Gloves & Socks Microfiber Deluxe Spa Wrap


lined with a polymer gel with vitamins and nutrients w/Microban® Antibacterial Protection

Outside: Available Sizes:


92% Cotton Regular: 58”W x 35”L
8% Spandex XLarge: 72”W x 35”L

Drawstring & Stopper

Use 20 minutes with or


without lotion for extra
intensive treatment.
Use up to 40 times! Pink Olive Sand

Non-Skid

Pamper Dry, Calloused Skin White Camel

Hollywood Face Inc. Int. Congress of Esthetics May 16-17, 2010


Arlington, TX Booth #607
www.hollywoodface.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #321 Tel: 626-285-8548 • Toll Free: 877-285-8548
Online Shop: shop.hollywoodface.com • Email: hollywoodface.microfiber@gmail.com
by Jean Shea

spa|botanical wrap-up

treatments that heal and hydrate

S
PAS ARE REPORTING A moval. It is massaged into the skin as
growing demand for wraps, and a hydrating and soothing product that
it’s no wonder! Wraps, which saves time, water and money.
date back thousands of years to ancient echinacea
Egypt, work to hydrate, tighten and Botanical healing wraps
tone the skin, as well as aid in circula- Enhanced with a host of active bo- regenerative properties. Traditionally,
tion and cleanse the body of toxins. tanicals, these new wraps provide a echinacea has been used to prevent
The treatments that were once popu- range of healing and skin rejuvenating colds and the flu, as well as other in-
lar for skin renewal during the holidays benefits. Burdock, echinacea, figwort fections, and is believed to boost the
immune system. It is highly regarded
for its skin healing properties, and has
The treatments that were once popular for
been used for minor skin wounds and
skin renewal during the holidays and seasonal inflammation.
changes are now becoming part of the routine spa Figwort has historically been used
experience among a growing number of clients. in both Western and Eastern medicinal
traditions. It supports detoxification and
is used for treating chronic skin dis-
and seasonal changes are now becom- and watercress are some of the more eases such as eczema and psoriasis. It
ing part of the routine spa experience popular herbs added to wraps to treat is applied topically to alleviate itching,
among a growing number of clients. various skin and medical conditions. burns, abscesses and wounds. Figwort
The good news is that the increased Burdock has been used for cen- also has stress-relieving properties.
demand for wraps is supported by a turies to improve a variety of medical Watercress is a perennial aquatic
new generation of offerings that make conditions and improve skin health. herb with many valuable properties.
it possible to perform treatments that The medicinal herb, native to Europe Originally from Europe and now grown
are traditionally carried out in a wet and Northern Asia and now wide- throughout Western Asia, watercress
room in a dry environment. Such wraps spread in the United States, is most is chock full of essential vitamins and
are formulated to stay moist and re- notably used as a blood purifier that minerals including calcium, phospho-
tain their creamy texture. They gener- clears the bloodstream of toxins. It rus, magnesium, iron, sodium, potas-
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Zorani

ally remove easily with a warm, damp is also used as a diuretic and topical sium, vitamins A and C, B1, B2 and
cloth, resulting in considerable savings remedy for skin problems including niacin. It also contains micronutrients
in water usage in comparison to wet eczema, acne and psoriasis. that work in tandem with antioxidants
room treatments. Another recent wrap Echinacea is a flowering plant to combat cancer breeding free radi-
to come to market is in the form of a grown in North America and Europe cals in the body.
balm, which does not even require re- that is used in wraps for its healing and continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 75


spa|botanical wrap up

With all the healing properties they


offer, it is easy to understand why
clients are so enthusiastic about wraps.

Watercress has been used throughout history as


a “spring cleaning herb” for purifying the blood and
toning the entire system. Its high sulfur content purifies
the blood and aids in cell building, which promotes
healthy hair and skin.
With all the healing properties they provide, it is
easy to understand why clients are so enthusiastic about
wraps. When used as part of a full body treatment with
scrubs to cleanse, tone and exfoliate, the skin experi-
ences a healing wake up call. n

Jean Shea is the founder and CEO


of BIOTONE, a manufacturer of

photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Shutterworx
professional massage oils, creams,
lotions, gels and body treatment
lines. She founded the company
in 1980 and continues to be in­
volved in the development of the
company’s formulas.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card
Page 76 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
by Denise R. Fuller

spa| 25 expert tips


suggestions for the treatment
room and solutions for the spa owner

IN ORDER FOR ANY KIND OF IM-


provement to take place in a spa, there
has to be action! Unfortunately, in many
4 “Have your treatment room so or-
ganized that you could work blind-
folded. Have everything you need
or lash tinting with that?’ When a cus-
tomer calls to book a massage, instruct
your receptionist to ask, ‘Did you want
cases the people that should be taking ready and within reach, so all your to include the dry brushing with that? It
action have no idea where to begin— energies are focused on your client.” enhances the experience.’ Always, al-
or they may not even recognize the Janine Cimino, esthetician and educa­ ways introduce an upsell a la cart option
existence of a problem. The follow- tor, West Palm Beach, Florida that can be added to every service you
ing is a compilation of tips and sug- offer. Be sure to train your receptionist
gestions from estheticians, spa own- to enthusiastically describe the add-on
ers and industry experts to help you service and know the price. Just make
better manage your business. These the offer and watch your sales grow.”
simple tips can give you ideas for re- Ellen Clark, Global Beauty Skin Care
alistic improvements and solutions to
common problems.

1 “Take 30 minutes a day to work on


your business instead of in it. The
6 “Marketing from the treatment
room: Many professionals do not
have the menu in the room even though
difference? Learn how to track your it’s a great marketing tool. Upon com-
statistics so you know what you are do- pleting the treatment you can promote
ing and what can be improved upon.” other treatments that will benefit your
Lori Nestore, Eva’s Esthetics clients. By having the menu, you can
point out the treatment, discuss its ben-
efits and reserve it for their next visit.
top: ©iStockphoto.com/ Don Bayley; bottom: ©iStockphoto.com/ Luca Monaco

2 “In life we’re always told: ‘Don’t


sweat the small stuff.’ But when it
comes to running a spa, it’s the details
Dori Soukup, InSparation Management

that impress your clientele.”


Lydia Sarafati, Repêchage Skin Care 7 “When applying a gel peeling for-
mula, avoid application with a brush

5 “To improve your sales immedi-


ately, do the following: With ev-
and use your fingertips to massage con-
centrating on the areas of the skin that

3 “The key to improving your treat-


ments is education...both being
educated in what you are doing and
ery appointment you are setting al-
ways ask: ‘Would you like to include
the ___________service with that?’ For
require the most attention. Massage in-
creases the penetration efficacy and pro-
vides more control of your application.”
educating your clients.” example, when a customer books a Christine Heathman,
Nanette Downer, master esthetic facial, you should respond with, ‘Did Glymed Skin Care
instructor, Skin Science Institute you want to include an eye brow arch continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 77


the
power
of appearance
...experience the difference

G
racious hospitality begins with a first impression.
SPA | HOTEL | FITNESS
1.800.772.1408
spauniforms.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #353 on reader service card
spa|25 expert tips

8 “Be organized and think ahead!


Have everything available that you
will need for the scheduled appoint-
changes. People don’t always want to
hear about us, so I try to make it about
them. This way, when they open our
15 “Being that business, like life,
is 10 percent the hand you are
dealt and 90 percent how you respond
ment sanitized and placed in an easy- email, they never know what they’ll find.” to it, use the next 30 days to evalu-
to-get at place. Think of your treat- Lori Guelff, esthetician and owner of ate not what you have, but to evalu-
ment room like an operating room. The Studio of Health and Beauty in ate your response to an ever changing
The surgical scrub makes sure to put Sebring, FL marketplace.“
the instruments in their proper place Julie Mack, owner of Mack
for their timing in the procedure, just Software Solutions in Plano, TX
as we should line up our products and
implements: cleanser, enzyme, steam-
er, extractor, massage oil/cream and
treatment mask.”
Laura L. Root, CST, CIDESCO Diplo­
16 “Clean the spa/salon office of
all clutter, unnecessary papers
or furniture. Make sure all treatment
mat, Director of Product Development rooms are spotless and all products
and Education and author of Tech­ are properly labeled and wiped down.
niques & Protocols for the Medical I often recommend having a friend or
Skin Care Clinic colleague secret shop the business from
appointment, meet and greet, service,
close, rebooking and follow up con-

9 “During the closing consultation,


tell your customer that you are still
accepting new clients and that any refer-
tact. Does the space lend to feeling
welcome? Is it clean? Does everyone
on the team greet you in a friendly and
rals she could send your way would be professional manner? Do they introduce
greatly appreciated. Asking for new busi- themselves? If it is a new customer or
ness with the implication that you might
not have availability in the future creates
a buzz around town. Incorporating this
12 “Remember once the client
closes their eyes, all of the other
five senses are heightened. Pay atten-
patient, do they get a tour of the space
so they know where everything is lo-
cated and other services available?”
daily act with each client is certain to tion to the ambiance created by music, AN G. Hinds, President and CEO of
bring in future business.” voice, aroma and touch but most im- Catherine HInds Institute of Esthetics
Toby Heisey, director of the portantly the power of your heartfelt
Institute of Skin Science, Rye, NH intention.” Melanie Sachs, Diamond
Way Ayurveda
17 “The most successful estheti-
cians are the ones who spend

10 “Make a file folder marked


“Articles to read.” When you
receive your magazine subscriptions, 13 “While you may go in and out
of a treatment room all day, this
a lot of time understanding the many
ingredients, strategies and modalities
that are available on the market so that
go through them and clip out articles is your client’s first time. As they sur- their clients feel like they can always
that you would like to read later. You’ll render to your hands, make the room, count on an educated opinion. The
be surprised at how fast they will accu- your presence and your touch as invit- esthetician becomes their resource
mulate. Don’t forget about articles on ing and caring as possible.” for everything. This builds loyalty, but
the web. This folder then becomes your Robert Sachs, more importantly, it builds complete
reading list. Keep it handy and pull out Diamond Way Ayurveda trust in your knowledge and skills.”
an article to read when you have minute. Ben Johnson, M.D., Osmosis Skin Care
Carry this file with you as you travel. You’ll
never be with out something to read!”
14 “Order nice linen thank you
18 “Have the treatment table
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Neustockimages

Dave Waggoner, Southwest Insitute of cards and put your business dressed for a walk-in. Do not
Natural Aesthetics instructor, Phoenix, AZ logo on the front and inside with a leave it undone while on a break. It is
scripted note to them thanking them not uncommon that potential clients will

11 “Our spa marketing emails are


not always about the ‘promo,’
but also about topics of interest for well-
for visiting the spa and offer a $10
discount on their next appointment.”
Mary LaDuke Turner, esthetician and
be getting a spa tour, and the therapy
room may be the only one vacant to
show. Not only does the room look un-
ness or heart healthy and simple lifestyle spa owner in New Castle, PA continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 79


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card
spa|25 expert tips

appealing, it is unsanitary and the guest stant feedback from— both good and
will be very disappointed in the spa pre- bad. Constantly learning and growing
sentation. Keep it clean at all times.” my skills is key.”
Elizabeth A. Edwards, esthetician and Millie Haynam, author, speaker,
editorial assistant for Milady’s, a division award winning salon owner
of Cengage Learning.
Can One Ingredient?
19 “After every client’s visit, I follow
up with a handwritten card thank-
ing them for their patronage, and enclose
22 “Believe in yourself, trust your
instincts, and stay focused.
Anything is possible if you are willing to in-
Heal Melasma
Heal Rosacea
Heal Actinic Keratosis
a professionally printed card for 10 per- vest the time and diligence to make it hap- Shrink Facial Capillaries
cent off their next service. They love it!” pen. Mastery and success is a decision.“
Generate Perfect Collagen
Gigi Walentiny, RN, LME Blue Willow David Suzuki, president
Skin Care, Virginia Beach, VA of Bio-Therapeutic SRGF-7TM
The Greatest Ingredient
in Skincare History

23 “Plan for the unexpected. Look


for things that could go wrong
and take preventative steps to mini-
Osmosis offers all natural & USDA
Organic products that are free of
ALL irritants & remarkably effective
mize the possibility. This could be every- for EVERY skin condition in a
thing from unexpected (or expectable) revolutionary, patent-pending
approach to the skin
weather conditions, equipment that is
not properly maintained, uncontrolled Call 877-777-2305
power cords and client accidents.” OsmosisSkincare.com
Judy Culp, dean of students at the
NW Esthetics School in Eugene, OR

24 “Paraffin masks are excellent but


many shy away from working
with them due to the mess. A simple

20 “When performing extractions,


I steam first (with a serum and
moisturizer on the skin). Afterwards, I
solution is to cut paper towels in one-
and-a-half inch strips, dip them vertically
into the paraffin, allow them to drip, then
apply massage oil and perform the face, press onto the face. It is quick and does
neck and shoulder massage. Now the not make a mess.“
skin is not only moist, but the steam Janet McCormick, MS, CIDESCO
and the massage have stimulated heat Diplomat, Frostproof, FL
into the skin, which helps to soften the
blackheads in the skin, so extracting af-
ter massage is easy. I get facials when I
travel and everyone always extracts af-
25 “Use educational marketing to
help your clients understand the
treatment, benefits and tips for home
ter steam and they end up marking my care by creating literature and using
skin. Bottom line: Extract post-steam article reprints as supplementary sup-
and post-massage!” port material.”
Renee Rouleau, esthetician, Dallas, TX Austine Mah, esthetician and educa­
tional marketing consultant for the skin
care industry n

21 “It is critical to continue to get


photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Kadir Barcin

services for yourself to stay cur- Denise R. Fuller is a licensed estheti­


rent with your techniques and trends. cian, certified body wrapping instructor
How could you ever know how some- for the state of Florida, beauty thera­
thing feels for yourself? I also have a spe- pist and editor-in-chief of Les Nouvelles
cial client, my daughter actually, that I Esthétiques & Spa. Contact Fuller at
can try new techniques on and get in- denise@LNEONLINE.com.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #111
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 81
spa

W
HEN THE LAZY DAYS OF SUMMER room. As you begin her pedicure, you notice the beginning
arrive, a laid back attitude tends to come of athlete’s foot. You choose to ignore it and continue with
along for the ride. People are more care- the service. Now not only has your pedicure station been
free than usual during the summer months. contaminated—so has everywhere else.
They walk around barefoot, sit in sweaty lounge chairs and We have an obligation to advise our clients appropriately
use each other’s towels at the beach—unknowingly transfer- when we notice a possibly contagious condition. Offer a sub-
ring bacteria and disease. stitute service and refer the client to a physician for treatment.
The sticky heat and humidity of summer create a perfect
breeding ground for parasites, bacteria, fungi and viruses.
Foreign invaders can wreak havoc in the spa without our SCENARIO 3
knowledge. All services are risky, particularly waxing, mani- It has been a great day, packed with appointments and healthy
cures, pedicures, body treatments and facials. retail sales, but now you are looking forward to the summer
These perpetrators do not discriminate. They find homes evening ahead. If you do not leave now you will definitely hit
in blood, skin and dark, moist areas such as underarms, groin traffic. So you decide to disinfect your brushes in the morn-
and inside of the nose. That may result in everything from ing. When the morning comes, however, you forget that the
minor skin irritations to more serious illnesses or infection. brushes on your counter have not been cleaned. You start to
Not only are our clients at risk, but we as providers can prepare as usual for your first client, creating another perfect
be affected as well. We may have paper cuts, torn cuticles, opportunity for infections to spread.
scratches and microscopic fissures invisible to the naked eye, When we visit a restaurant, we usually base our opinion
which can serve as direct pathways for the spread of disease. on the look and feel of the establishment. We would never
When we place safety at the bottom of our priority list, consciously choose to dine in a dirty place. But do we ever
we compromise our health, as well as the safety of our co- really know what is going on in the kitchen? Is the food pre-
workers and clients. pared with our health and safety in mind? Those brushes left
on the counter are no more safe than the carelessly prepared
food in the back of the restaurant!
SCENARIO 1
In the heat of the summer, a new client arrives for a bikini
wax. You have read articles on the importance of wearing SCENARIO 4
gloves and the danger of double dipping. You follow ap- In order to save money, you decide to change your disin-
propriate guidelines when necessary. In this case, you do fectant less frequently and use disposable items more than
a visual check of the area to be waxed. The skin looks fine, once. After all, how dirty can they possibly get? Once again,
so you proceed with your favorite reusable metal applicator you have created a perfect breeding ground for disease.
and no gloves. You have now created the perfect opportu- Dirty disinfectant is ineffective. Replace it with fresh solu-
nity for infection to spread in your spa. tion whenever floating debris or cloudiness is apparent. Follow
The above example is just one of those decisions that manufacturers’ guidelines and check with your state board.
may seem inconsequential at the time it is made, much like Some states have updated, or are in the process of updating,
choosing to send a text while driving. However if we continue regulations to include sterilization by autoclave of reusable
to take our eyes off the road—even for a second—something implements, along with the enforcement of using disposables
devastating could happen that ultimately jeopardizes both one time only. The purchase of an autoclave is a very wise
our safety and the safety of others. That is true when a poor investment, regardless of whether or not it is required by law.
decision is made behind the wheel and while performing a Consciously or unconsciously, we put our own lives and
treatment at the spa. the lives of others at risk on a daily basis. Every time we get
in our cars, eat in a restaurant or visit a spa we are placing
our safety in someone else’s hands.
SCENARIO 2 Documented cases of dreadful infections have been
Your spa is located in a beach town where swimsuits and traced back to unsanitary conditions in salons and spas
bare feet are the norm—and your establishment is no ex- throughout the country, namely methicillin-resistant staph-
ception. A client arrives without an appointment, and you ylococcus aureus, or MRSA. Experts say that even healthy
ask her to wait 10 minutes. During the waiting period, she people may be carriers. 4
photo: Stockbyte/Getty Images

strolls barefoot into your retail boutique, hair salon and ladies continues

BY SHERRY TAYLOR AND LINDA RAE

Page 82 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


WHEN WE PLACE
SAFETY AT THE
BOTTOM OF OUR
PRIORITY LIST, WE
COMPROMISE OUR
HEALTH, AS WELL
AS THE SAFETY OF
OUR COWORKERS
AND CLIENTS.

Beware of
summer
invaders guarding spa safety

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 83


• Utilize face masks and eye protection when applicable.
• Allow clients to see you wash your hands and prepare
clean implements.
• Display hand sanitizer where the client can see it.
• Have clients wash their hands prior to manicures.
• Require that appropriate clothing and shoes be worn
by both clients and staff.
• Keep clean towels in a closed cabinet or container.
• Follow strict controls for washing laundry on-site. If
an outside laundry service is used, make sure it is an
OSHA-approved facility.
• Have clients wear disposable slippers to prevent
When we choose to treat everyone as potentially conta- the spread of athlete’s foot, warts, etc.
gious (as stated by OSHA), we need not worry. Washing hands, • Keep trash cans covered and empty them
wearing gloves, onetime use of disposables and following often to avoid overflow.
appropriate disinfection and sterilization guidelines are the • We all love our pets, but a spa is not the place for
golden rules in preventing the spread of infectious disease. them. The only exception should be pets belonging to
Nothing may ever happen, but if it does, the business disabled clients.
we work so hard to build could be in jeopardy. When safety • Check individual state regulations and visit
and health issues are compromised and something serious www.osha.gov for further information.
does happen, the results can be devastating. Diseases can
spread, hefty fines levied, licenses revoked and businesses Advertise your commitment to safety
lost. Everyone in the chain of command may be held account- • Create and display a mission statement
able, including spa directors, managers and business owners. reflecting your dedication to safety.
Although we have a legal, ethical and moral obligation • Openly discuss the measures you take and encourage
to uphold the laws and regulations that govern our industry, others in your salon or spa to do the same.
we should always strive to go above and beyond what is • Advertise safety on your website, newspaper
expected. This summer, give your clients the gift of knowing and radio station.
they can relax and enjoy their experiences in a clean, safe • Hold an open house and invite the
and healthy environment. local media to attend.
• Offer prospective clients a tour of your facility, and
Summer checklist point out the specific safety measures you take that
• Purchase an autoclave to sterilize reusable implements set you apart from others.
such as comedone extractors, tweezers, etc. It is well • Add your mission statement to your menu of services.
worth the cost. (Check with your state board to see if • Encourage questions from your clients—and make
an autoclave is mandatory.) sure you know the answers!
• Follow appropriate disinfection procedures: • Take the opportunity to advertise your commitment to
1. Wash brushes with soap and water. your clients’ well being in e-mail blasts, postcards and
2. Rinse and dry with paper towels. newsletters.
3. Fully immerse in clean, fresh disinfectant. By being aware of and taking action against these sum-
4. Use an EPA registered, hospital grade disinfectant. mer invaders, you are effectively ensuring the safety of your
5. Rinse implements. clients and employees. n
6. Thoroughly dry and store in a clean, covered con-
tainer away from pens, phones or other potentially Sherry Taylor currently serves as paramedical skin care in­
contaminated items. structor at Florida College of Natural Health, Fort Lauderdale,
• Disposable tools are to be used only once before be- FL. She has previously served as director of esthetician train­
ing thrown away or given to the client. That includes ing and development for a national chain of medical spas,
photo: Image Source/Getty Images

nail files, buffers and sponges. and is also the owner of a successful skin care and image
• Keep wax clean by covering wax pot when not in use consulting business. Linda Rae is the owner of Linda Rae
and never, ever double dip—regardless of what you Skin Care and the creator of a results-oriented pre/post facial
may read or hear. plastic surgery program. She was formerly an international
• Wear gloves when giving services, educator for a major skin care line. They may be reached at
cleaning up and handling dirty linens. info@TaylorRae.net.

Page 84 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


spa|news body, equipment and supply products

SILHOUETTE DOWNSIZER
Impress your clients with a high-tech solution to their
cellulite with Dectro’s Vital-Ultra. With its unique
combination of radiowave, infrared light, chromotherapy
and vacuodermy, Vital-Ultra reduces swelling and redefines
the body outline, says the company. Clients should
SLIM SOLUTION notice a loss in volume and a reduction of cellulite in
The Cellulite Rx Contour Body desired areas after the first session. www.dectro.com
Wrap from Institut’ DERMed is
the perfect service to slim and
tone your clients for the beach
this summer. The treatment is
performed with a combination of
products containing concentrated
QUALITY CLOSE-UP As part of the innovative
redesign of the award-winning 2010 bt-GEAR™
therapeutic active ingredients
line, Bio-Therapeutic introduces the bt-view™.
that diminish the appearance
The new piece of equipment is an ergonomic shape,
of cellulite. Cellulite Rx includes
with an enhanced high definition camera that is capable
Quosome, a liposome delivery
of magnifying the skin up to 200 times, according
system that enhances the
to the company. The bt-view can be used up to 20
penetration of skin firming
feet away, making it perfect for a treatment room,
ingredients. Glycolic acid,
nanoLounge™ or retail floor. www.bio-therapeutic.com
lipotherm and lipolift are also
applied in a three-step process
including a wrap and massage
procedure to exfoliate, firm and
tone. www.idermed.com
FABULOUS FUSION
Resurface the skin with the HydraFacial MD®
serum-based hydradermabrasion system from
Edge Systems. The HydraFacial uses patented
HydroPeel® tips to resurface the skin while
simultaneously infusing powerful serums packed
with antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptide complex
and acid peels. It includes a touchscreen design
with built-in protocols. www.edgesystem.net

MORE NEWS

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 85


spa|news

SPICE THINGS UP! The Cinammon and Saffron


Multi-Sensory Massage Formula is used in two treatments
by Germaine de Capuccini. The texture of a cream and oil
together make it possible to carry out a prolonged massage
that is comfortable for both client and therapist, says the
company. The formula works as a “skin care oil resin” that
provides the benefits that spices can deliver to the mind,
body and spirit. www.esthetiquesupply.com/us/

HYDRATE RECORD TECHNOLOGY


WITH MILK LTW Technologies has received five FDA
Add a luscious treat for clearances for its proprietary and unique
parched and dry skin this multi-wavelength LED Lightwave therapy
summer. Keep the luscious device. The Lightwave Deluxe series is the
Hydrating Body Milk first LED light therapy system to combine
from Future Face on your red, infrared and blue light therapy in one
shelves throughout the unit, obtain clearances for each wavelength
year. Made from the active and receive clearances for multi-wavelength
properties of cream, milk and natural elements treatments for use on the face and body, says
including quince extract, lipid extracts, sage the company. The Lightwave Deluxe can be used to perform
and wheat plant phytoceramides, the body many services, including the treatment of benign lesions,
milk leaves skin soft and velvety to the touch, acne and wrinkles around the eye and the temporary relief
says the company. www.futurefaceus.com of minor muscle and joint pains. www.mylightwave.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #229 on reader service card
Page 86 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
business|marketing boot camp
By Tracy L. Drumm

E
XPERIENCE LEARNING WITH
a new sizzle that is helping spas
thrive during these turbulent eco-
nomic times. With the help of everything
from live music to personalized snacks,
innovative seminar series are giving a
pulse back to spas all over the nation.
What do these “marketing boot camps”
entail? More importantly, how can their offer. A simple photo album works add the following sentence to all of
innovative concepts get your phones fine, but if you really want to grab your printed publicity: “Help us be
ringing and fill your schedule? people’s attention as they sit in your green by sharing this with a friend.” By
Day long courses that have been waiting room, consider a profession- adding just one line to all brochures,
sweeping the nation are showing attend- al hardcover photo book. Create an business cards or newsletters, you can
ees how to build their practices without album that showcases before and potentially double the reach of your
breaking the bank. Here are four inex- after photos while describing your marketing efforts without increasing
pensive ways to keep business booming. facial treatment options in detail. your costs. Add a similar concept to
• Pre-commit. Establish a relationship Services like eyebrow waxing, mi- every page of your website, encour-
with your clients before they even crodermabrasion and chemical peels aging visitors to “email this page to
come in. Simply turn your appoint- make great visuals and are exciting a friend.” The effort has the added
ment reminder calls into introductory for clients to read about. value of collecting email addresses
calls from the provider. Have the es- • Retain. Maintain their loyalty! An easy of more prospective clients.
thetician, physician’s assistant, nurse way to get your phone ringing and A great new book that offers in-
or even the physician block off 30 min- your schedule booked is to encour- expensive tips to help your business
utes on Fridays to call new patients age your existing customers to keep get and stay busy is THRIVE: Pearls
scheduled for the following week. coming back. Give each client a “loy- to Prosper in Any Economy by Steven
The provider can introduce them- alty card” that accumulates points. Dayan, M.D., F.A.C.S.
selves and let the patients know they You can mark these by initialing or In the current economy, everyone
are looking forward to meeting. They stamping them after each treatment or needs to carry out a strong marketing
can also encourage first time patients whenever a specific dollar amount has plan if they want to keep their business
to write down questions before their been spent. Once a client has enough booming. n
appointment to ensure that any con- signatures or stamps to fill the card,
cerns are covered during their consul- give them a free treatment! By giving Tracy Drumm, vice president of IF Mar­
tation. The small gesture makes a last- the patient a goal, you are turning keting, specializes in the branding and
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Suprijono Suharjoto

ing impression, and it can be the first each appointment into an investment promotion of cosmetic practices. She
step to creating a long, loyal relation- towards a reward. The loyalty card is is known for her creative and easy-to-
ship between the spa and customer. an effective way to incentivize patients implement strategies designed to de­
• Educate. Esthetics is a visual indus- to return, and also helps them to jus- liver results. Drumm has co-authored
try where seeing is believing. It is no tify spending money. two marketing books, Thrive and
secret that before and after photos • Refer. Did you know that you can gen- Keys to Success: Marketing & Practice
can easily peak interest and gener- erate new referrals without spending Management. For more information,
ate excitement for the services you extra funds on promotions? Simply please visit www.ifmark.com.

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 87


photo: ©Edward Bock/Dreamstime.com

Page 88 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


business

by Marion Bodner

business|spa owner’s corner

going solo, the joy of self-employment

M
Y EMPLOYMENT UNDER have to give up half of my paycheck. I lucky to find a business accountant that
plastic surgeons and der- decide for myself what to charge for is perfect for me, and we barter services
matologists was the most products and services, and help all my with each other. I give her a monthly skin
valuable educational experience I ever clients receive skin care that suits their care treatment and in return she handles
could have had to further my skills as a budget so they leave feeling satisfied. my bookkeeping business accounts. My
taxes and purchases are always up to date,
and we are both happy. It is a win-win
I can be me! I express myself fully, and am able to
arrangement.
best serve my clients. The money I make is all mine As estheticians, we carry a lot of
—I do not have to give up half of my paycheck. products, unlike a massage therapist,
who is ready to perform a service with
only a bottle of massage lotion.
skin care practitioner. After many years Love all the hats! Estheticians need a great range of
of learning all I could in the realm of Being my own boss requires wearing products to meet compatibility with all
medical skin care, I took the plunge and many hats. I am the skin care expert the various skin conditions and types,
opened my own skin care business. and the front desk girl. I place the skin as well as hair waxing, eyelash and
I wanted to create a private, safe and care orders, write the checks, take out brow tinting, makeup, back bar sup-
cozy atmosphere for my clients. I now the garbage, clean the office, buy the plies and so on.
have more time to educate them on flowers and schedule my own clients. As exciting as it is, keeping up with
how to achieve the best results for their Handling the front desk when I am the latest skin care equipment and prod-
individual skin conditions. The big bonus alone can be challenging. I place orders ucts to help reduce age spots, wrinkles,
for me is that I now have the freedom before seeing my first client of the day fine lines, tone and texture can be very
to do my own research and select the and return calls between sessions. In costly. We must choose our ingredients
products I believe in without acquiring order to get everything done, I arrive an wisely while at the same time manag-
permission from anyone. hour before opening time. At the end of ing the cost.
Being in charge of my own sched- the day, I balance out all the paperwork Doing research and conversing with
uling is a joy, leaving me the time I and make sure everything is in its proper other estheticians and sales reps helps
want and need to assist my clients in place. I also do the laundry each day. me to make wise choices on purchases.
achieving optimal results. I am in no Maintaining a routine is essential for me. It is very easy to overspend, as the skin
hurry; clients do not feel rushed and care industry is flooded with enticing new
extra time is well spent on a produc- The challenges products and equipment all the time.
tive one-on-one experience. Bookkeeping is the biggest challenge for We need to keep stock on our shelves
I can be me! I express myself fully, me. The task entails making sure every in order to have a complete operation
and am able to best serve my clients. transaction is correct and keeping track and give our clients enough choices. I
The money I make is all mine—I do not of all services and product sales. I was continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 89


business|spa owner’s corner

I love to surprise and delight clients. Some­


Growing a successful business times I leave a special gift on the pillow when they
involves ongoing activity. arrive. I love the look on their faces and the joy I
I attend many networking get from it. The feeling cannot be beat, and the
events each month and aim extra touch shows your customers that you care.

to meet as many potential


Network and nurture
clients as possible. Growing a successful business involves on-
going activity. I attend several networking
events each month and aim to meet as many
potential clients as possible. My one minute
elevator speech captures their attention and
opens the door for more conversation. I always
have business cards handy, which I offer them
without applying any pressure to schedule an
appointment. Obtaining their cards at these
events is also important so you are able to get
in touch with them.
Using the latest communication technology
modes in order to get your message out is ex-
tremely beneficial also.
Attending wellness affairs and setting up
a booth with your company information is a
great way to generate business. A skin analysis
camera that captures one’s skin condition (at
no cost) is a tool that provides visual illustration
of exactly how your services can help them.
The ladies’ locker room at the gym is a
try to make the product assortment as simple as good place to stir up conversation about skin
possible in order to keep the costs down. care. It is a place to meet mothers who may
want to help their teenagers with the skin is-
Attracting the best clients sues this age group faces.
Where do we find our clientele? How do we ac- Can you tell that I love what I do? I adore
quire new clients and keep our existing ones com- my clients and I am able to design and orches-
ing back month after month? That part is easy for trate each and every day to be just the way I
me. The most important aspects of your business want it—the benefits are priceless! I have found
that keep clients coming back is your expertise, that my passion truly lies in being my own boss
honesty, relationship, attitude and warm smiles! through self-employment. n
Showing that you care and treating everyone
as though they are family is what clients want
and like. Ninety percent of my business is based Marion Bodner is a li­
on selling treatment series, as a more affordable censed clinical estheti­
service price appeals to many of my clients. cian and certified prac­
They can see superior results from a skin titioner in Energy Light
care regimen and feel better about investing Rejuvenation (ELR). She
photo: © Lotophagi/Dreamstime.com

in their wellbeing. is a consultant for es­


Everyone wants to look and feel great, and theticians, acupunctur­
word-of-mouth is the best possible advertise- ists, physical therapists,
ment you can have. Give your clients a special nurses and doctors in the
treatment, product or discount on their next visit use of ELR. Contact her at
to motivate them to spread the word about you. marion@insideoutskin.net.

Page 90 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


IngredIents: Water (Aqua), Acetyl Hexapep-
tide-3 (Argireline), Glycerin-Butylene Glycol-
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), Oxido
Reductases-Soy Peptides-Hydrolyzed Rice
Bran Extract (Regu-Age), Macrocystis Pyrifera
(Extract)-Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein-PVP, Hespe-
ridin Methyl Chalcone-Steareth-20-Dipeptide-
2-Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Eyeliss), Steareth
– 20 – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Rigin), Acetyl
Octapeptide-3 (Snap-8), Dipeptide Diaminobuty-
royl Benzylamide Diacetate (Syn-Ake), Palmitoyl
Tripeptide-3 (Syn-Coll), Sodium Hyaluronate...

*Actual Ingredients

Peptide Mobilizer
Formulated with 60% Peptides!

Free For more information about Peptide Mobilizer and


to try a free sample, call DermaQuest today at
samPle 1-800-213-8100 or visit dermaquestinc.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #261 on reader service card
by David Suzuki

business|biz smart

merit based skin care

C
OMPETITION IS GOOD. THE Competition is not limited to any one
drive to compete pushes peo- sport, business or country. It exists in
ple and makes them strive to every part of the world and every as-
be better. You see the rivalry each pect of our lives. The basic instinct to
year in the early days of summer, survive, thrive and progress are part
when every kid participates in camp of the human condition. It is essential
activities and wants to be a part of to the survival of our species.

Educating your team on a merit based measurement


and reward system creates positive internal
competition and an environment where those who
are committed not only excel, they set examples.

the team. My youngest son, who is Level the playing field?


eight years old, is no exception. He Many believe that there should be
recently participated in his first mi- a bigger attempt to “level the play-
nor league baseball draft. For the ing field” by making it more difficult
event, the children spend the day for those who work hard to succeed,
on the field participating in a series while making it much easier for those
of baseball drills while the coaches who hardly work to prosper. Although
closely observe their skills and vig- some may conveniently believe in this
orously write down player numbers concept as it applies to their financial
in the hopes of negotiating the “ul- situation, none of the parents of the
timate” team at the end of the day. children who were participating in the
Those participating in these activities game that day believed in that idea
all held a similar belief in competition, on the baseball field. Those who were
merit based rewards and recognition selected as first and second round
photo: © Nolte Lourens/Dreamstime.com

for performance. draft picks were chosen because they


practiced the longest and hardest—
Rivalry is instinctual and as a result they performed the
Why shouldn’t we believe in compe- best. No parent will argue about that.
tition? What is wrong with striving At the end of the day, our son was
to achieve something you desire as picked in the third round of drafts. After
long as you are willing to work for it? continues

Page 92 • www.LNEONLINE.com
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 93
business|biz smart

he heard the news, he insisted that he member of society work, contribute


These tools are
would be a first round draft pick the and sacrifice if the fruits of their labor
extremely helpful
following year, and I believe him. He were not realized, but rather denied
in confirming what was proud of his achievement and in- and redistributed to those who made
we understand spired by his competition. no contributions or sacrifices?
the skin condition
to be, and just as Embracing competition Business as usual
importantly, serve as Competition is good. It keeps us on Many business models have delinea-
our toes, motivates us to stay in check, tions of remuneration based upon tra-
the bridge to active
inspires us to keep striving to achieve ditional categories ranging from se-
client participation. more, advance our skills or better our- niority, education level, job title and
selves in some way. Remember, how- responsibility, most of which make
ever, that any rivalry can only be clas- sense and should be taken into con-
sified as competition if there is a merit sideration when considering your pay
based reward. scale structure. However, these tradi-
The elimination or obstruction of tional categories are only part of the
competition is damaging business- equation, and in many cases have very
es, families and many individuals who little to do with a team member’s value
dream of success. How would kids pre- to the business.
pare and perform for baseball drafts if If you analyze any company, you
photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic

their skill and commitment level went are quickly able to find individuals who
unnoticed and did not seem to matter have similar parameters of seniority
to anyone? How would a child perform and job responsibilities and have sala-
in school if it did not matter what grade ries within 10 percent of one another,
they earned? And how hard would a yet have completely different levels

Page 94 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


business|biz smart

It will improve their skin and meet their objectives


and help us measure the progress that they are
making toward their goals as time goes on. In
short, it helps to achieve merit based skin care!

of production and contribution to the sumer is ready and willing to invest in


business. That is not to say that senior- their health and appearance, they are
ity and loyalty have no value, but it also hungry for information and feel
does mean that a 15 year veteran of a the need to be an active participant
company who is absolutely worthless in their skin care. They require merit
is just that—useless and a poor finan- in the way of evidence and science to
cial investment. justify that the products and services
they are purchasing are an effective
Merit based and worthwhile investment.
business model Although there seems to be an
Merit based business models suggest endless array of pricey and sophisticat-
that there is measurability for every as- ed analysis tools on the market today,
pect of each job description that can it is my opinion that the best analysis
be monitored daily, weekly, monthly is performed and realized by the skin
and annually. It allows an individual’s therapist as opposed to a computer.
commitment level to be realized, their That is not to say that technology is
attention to detail championed and not useful, only that it should not be
their value to the company rewarded. used to replace the knowledge, expe-
Educating your team on a merit based rience, and intuition of the skin thera-
measurement and reward system cre- pist. Simply put, there are just some
ates positive internal competition and tasks that a computer will never be
an environment where those who are able to take care of as well as a hu-
committed not only excel, they set ex- man can, and skin care is one of them.
amples and inspire other members of
the team who are interested in doing Tools of merit
the same. Companies who function in However, what we can learn from tech-
this way are true diamonds in the rough, nology is clearer and more precise in-
and can be recognized by customers formation that helps us to provide more
immediately, regardless of whether they accurate prescriptions and treatments.
are restaurants, hardware stores or spas. Some of the latest analysis technology
The people who make up these busi- available to the skin therapist is not
nesses genuinely like their jobs, want only exciting and intriguing, it is also
to achieve success personally and as a compact, battery operated, scientifi-
team and are there to serve their clients! cally sound and best of all—attainable.
Such energy and enthusiasm cannot be Most well trained skin therapists
bought or redistributed. It is a genuine can “wow” a customer with a great
and organic product of competition. onetime facial. However, without a
measurable plan and clear client objec-
Merit based skin care tives, that is all it amounts to: a single
Every aspect of society is constantly facial. These tools are extremely help-
changing: the way we think, what we ful in confirming what we understand
do, where we go and how we spend the skin condition to be, and just as
our money. What has not changed, importantly, serve as the bridge to ac-
TOUCHE BEAUTY LLC
however, is our insatiable desire to look tive client participation. They also help
and feel our best. Although today’s con- continues
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 95
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #273
business|biz smart

True Skin
Healing
Starts With
Your DNA
• Catalyst has Proven
it Protects Your DNA
in REAL TIME
• Dramatic Skin Changes
for Most Conditions
• SPF 15 Without
Merit based businesses are
a Sunscreen
in demand, as they are the
diamonds in the rough that
are shining brighter and more
resiliently now than ever before.

us establish scientific justification of what and how we are prescribing,


how it will improve their skin, meet their objectives and help us measure
the progress that they are making towards their goals as time goes on.
In short, it helps to achieve merit based skin care!

Be blessed
Regardless of whether you look to a grocery store, stock broker, restau-
rant or skin therapist, merit based businesses are in demand, as they
are the diamonds in the rough that are shining brighter and more re-
siliently now than ever before. It has been proven time and time again
that early adopters of change and trend have done more than simply
survive, they have dominated. Therefore, it is crucial for us to under-
stand the concept and function of the merit based business model,
and realize that it is the path we should all be following.
Those of you who have worked hard and been rewarded accord-
ingly are an inspiration to the rest of us to continue our diligence. You
offer evidence and hope that anything is possible. Blessings to all
those who win by striving to improve and embracing competition. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic,


Inc., has been an active licensed member of
the esthetics industry for more than 18 years.
photo: © Nolte Lourens/Dreamstime.com

He is an authority on technology and regula­


tory issues, including FDA submission and ac­
quisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institu­
tions and state boards, writes for numerous
industry publications and journals and conducts
educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at Call 877-777-2305
dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com. OsmosisSkincare.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #111
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 97
BY CARL A. BOGER JR.

CRACKING THE
bottle photo: ©iStockphoto.com/ Studio21214

RETAIL CODE THE ANSWER IS SIMPLE

Page 98 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010


business

IN TODAY’S ECONOMY, SPA DIRECTORS ity of a product to be positioned at a higher


are trying to figure out how to identify with retail selling price than generic products. Your
customers’ buying interests and increase sales. branded products and private label should
They also want to be able to obtain the greatest have lift to be effective in the minds of the
margins and satisfy increasingly cost conscious client and for your own profitability.
consumers. Nationally, spa retail sales have There is also confusion about what it means to
made up less than 15 percent of total sales. be “exclusive.” Many spas try to use products that
There is a new goal to raise the average check no one else within the market area sells. Instead,
per customer via retail sales. A spa’s minimum pay attention to who is selling the products,
goal should be to increase retail sales to a mini- both within your area and nationally. The qual-
mum of 25 percent of the total. Below are eight ity of branded products must match the quality
simple steps towards meeting this objective: of the spa brand. If your “exclusive” spa is sell-
ing body and skin products that another private
Step 1: Customer profiling spa is also selling, you have image congruency
The first step is to determine the wants, needs within your products. However, if the consumer
and profile of your customer. Are they locals or can find your products at a discount store, the
are they tourists visiting your spa while on va- brand image of your products is destroyed and
cation? Are they regular clients? What types of the brand lift is undermined. For that reason you
skin and body products do they currently use? must do some research to make sure you know
What would they like to see their products do who else is selling your products. Remember,
for them? What are their personal and lifestyle your customers will search!
demographics? Are they price conscious? Are
they more driven by value or brand? Once these Step 3: Screening process
questions are answered, you have a good idea All too often, the owner, spa director or techni-
of your customer profile, and what types of body cian selects what is “best” for the guests. Where
and facial products they are seeking. are the clients themselves in the selection pro-
cess? This creates buy-in for the technicians
Step 2: Spa strategy by their involvement in the selection process,
You need to have an understanding of your but not the VIP of the spa. In your selection
retail product brand strategy as it relates to process, include a small panel of customers to
your overall spa strategy. Should you sell ge- test new products and make recommendations.
neric, branded or private label products? The This does not mean that they do all of the re-
answer depends on a few factors. A word of search and randomly select products. As the
caution if you have positioned your spa to be professional, you must guide them in screening
an exclusive world class spa: You could dam- product classes and types. Your customers will
age your spa image if you introduce generic become walking billboards! Each month have
brands. Generic brands include products for a different panel of customers to test the vari-
consumers that are generally considered non- ous products you are considering.
professional. They can be purchased over the
counter at grocery stores, malls, mass retailers Step 4: Integration
and/or health food stores. You should always Maintain congruency between what is on your re-
avoid selling products that can be found at tail shelves and what is in your treatment rooms.
discount retailers. A world class spa should Many spas sell exclusive body and facial products
use professional branded products and/or but use generic, low cost products. Why should
their own private label. It is a good idea to a consumer purchase a product they have never
introduce a private label because the strength experienced? Make sure that your technicians
of your spa brand should carry over to your use the products that you are planning to sell.
body and facial products. However, that does How can they recommend products they have
not mean you should use cheap ingredients never tried themselves? It does raise the cost
or packaging. If you have a world class spa, of products within the treatment rooms, but it
your private brand must reflect an image of also boosts your retail sales. 4
such quality. Remember, brand lift is the abil- continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 99


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card
business|cracking the retail code

Give each
customer samples
specifically INTRODUCING
tailored to their
individual needs.

Step 5: Protocols
Develop protocols for evaluating your customers’ skin and selling strategies within
your treatment rooms. I recommend upgrading spa treatments from the traditional
50 minute to a 60 minute experience. The additional 10 minutes can be used to
evaluate the spa consumer’s needs, and allows your technician to build a personal
relationship with their customer as well as evaluate their skin. Many customers
view the technicians as “caregivers,” not simply service providers. Nearly every
department store provides miniature samples to their consumers at the makeup
counters. These tiny samples give the consumer the impression of product ex-
clusivity, and allows them an opportunity to take something home to try. If they
like the products you have given them, they are more likely to purchase them
on their next visit. Give your customers the miniature products before they leave
the treatment room, along with cards carrying a description of the product’s ben-
efits. Give each customer samples specifically tailored to their individual needs.
Put the products into small bags imprinted with your logo. After your customers
have taken the samples, your front desk personnel can ask them if they need any
body or facial products. Your customer now has all the necessary information to
select the right products for themselves.

Step 6: Accountability
So far, you have identified the wants and needs of your customer and your brand
strategy for body and skin products. You have tested products and developed
evaluation and sales products. So what is left? You must hold your staff account-
able for both following the protocols and meeting consultation (sales) goals. You
need to track the average daily revenue and retail sale for each customer. Some
technicians focus on adding body and facial treatments but neglect to pitch retail.
By establishing a culture of accountability, the technician wins by receiving com-
mission on body and facial products, the customer wins because they are being
prescribed the best products for their skin and the owner wins because they are
increasing their revenue.

Step 7: Budgetary check


Just like any business, spas need to offer products that meet the revenue and
profitability goals of their brand. So the spa director, owner or accountant needs
to ensure that the product mix meets your financial and branding goals. Typically,
generic brands have the highest percentage of gross revenue, while branded
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Libby Chapman

products have the lowest percentage. However, you need to focus on gross rev-
enue in dollars, not percentages. If you are able to sell a branded product for two
or three times as much in dollars as what you can sell generic products for, you
can generate more revenue. For example, a branded product that sells for $60
with a gross profit of 30 percent provides you with a total of $18 of gross profit.
On the other hand, if you sell a generic product for $20 with a gross profit of 50
continues
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 101
business|cracking the retail code

We need to move away from the “hard sell”


strategy into more of a partnership strategy
that meets the customer’s skin needs.

percent, you have a gross profit of $10. So the question becomes whether you
want to put $18 or $10 in your pocket.
The other two keys to the equation are product mix and volume. You may
have to sell two or three product lines to meet the variety of your consumers in
terms of product needs and pricing. Keeping products on your shelves that never
sell might make a great wall display, but it is costing you money because you are
unable to use these resources, and eventually they become a financial waste.

Step 8: Pitfalls and roadblocks


The last part of the process that must be planned is avoiding the typical pitfalls
that present themselves in the implementation of any strategy. The first common
roadblock is misunderstanding the needs and wants of the customer, as well as
your own brand. You need to ensure that you are able to adjust your brand im-
age to meet the expectations of your consumer. This is called closing the gap! You
have two choices: You can attract other customers that fit your brand image, or
you can meet the desires and needs of your current customer base by modifying
your brand image. That choice also impacts the body and facial products that you
select for your consumer.
The biggest roadblock is convincing your technicians to be caregivers by
analyzing the skin of their customers and recommending products that meet
their individual needs. We need to move away from the “hard sell” strategy
into more of a partnership strategy that meets the customer’s skin needs. That
builds trust from patrons, and they then view the spa as a nurturing place of re-
juvenation. It is essential that your clients are educated by your employees, so
you must ask yourself if your employees understand the features and benefits
of each product you sell.
“Hidden craters” is a term that describes problems that are usually beyond
your control—or of whose existence you are unaware. Finding out that your spa
products are available at discount retailers is an example of a hidden crater. The
other evening, I was watching a television show that was offering products that
I had recommended to a spa for nearly 40 percent less than the spa was charg-
ing. The exclusivity of the product had just vanished, and the commercial basi-
cally destroyed the spa’s pricing strategy. That causes confusion in the mind of
the consumer and shakes their trust in you. Do your research on the product line
that is going to support your spa.
Another hidden crater is having too many product lines and too much depth
within each category. Two to three product lines are sufficient for most spas. The more
product lines you have, the more confusing it is for your technicians and consum-
ers. In addition, the cost of stocking, controlling and having your financial resources
tied up in inventory makes it very difficult for you to manage your product lines.
Spas need to examine their product mix and ensure that they are maximizing
all available retail sales in terms of gross profit in dollars, an evaluation that helps
promote the longevity of the business’ success. n

Carl A. Boger Jr. is the associate dean at the Conrad N. Hilton College at the
University of Houston. He is an expert on sensory branding and has created a
spa management program. Email him at cboger@uh.edu.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #168
Page 102 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
spa|news
biz |news commerce, trade, industry
body, equipment and people
and supply products

EXPERT INSTRUCTION
Author Susanne S. Warfield has recently writ-
ten a chapter in medical textbook Aesthetic
Oculofacial Rejuvenation, a publication that
PHOTO: LANA PENROSE

covers the latest noninvasive techniques for


the eye and face using images and step by
step guidance. Warfield’s chapter discusses
the services that an esthetician can offer in a
medical setting and the work that the National
Coalition of Estheticians, Manufacturers/Distributors & Associations
ROLL OUT THE has been doing to standardize education and training in the United
GREEN CARPET! States and Canada. www.pcijournal.com
Nina Curtis represented LNE
& Spa magazine as the West
Coast affiliate at the third
annual Hollywood Goes
Green event on March 12, BRAND CONSOLIDATION
2010, hosted by Boulevard3. Ellen Clark, president of Control Corrective
The event supports efforts Skin Care, Global Beauty and Topical RX has
to raise funds for Operation formed Ellen Clark Skin Care International,
Green Leaves (OGL), a charity an umbrella company for all three brands.
devoted to reforesting and In conjunction with the consolidation, the
rebuilding Haiti. Boulevard3 company relocated to larger headquarters in
donated one tree to OGL March in Irvine, CA. The 4,200 square-foot
for each paid admission. facility features a regional showroom and
Among the several hundred training facility with demonstration rooms and facial beds. “This is a
attendees, some celebrities vision I’ve held for some time, and I’m thrilled to see it to fruition,”
were present. (Pictured: said Clark. “I strongly feel that it’s important to offer more than just
Curtis, at right, and Akidah product to skin care professionals...our new spot provides an education
Njuzu, owner of Suite Ta Bu) and resource center for estheticians and spa owners in Southern
www.oglhaiti.com California. They can come here for greater product knowledge,
coaching in developing sales and business strategies, networking and
more, whatever they need to succeed.” www.skincareprofs.com

MORE NEWS

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 103
business|news

BRINGING
PROFESSIONALS TOGETHER
The Women’s Center at Metroplex Hospital in
Killeen, TX, has teamed up with Anna D. Rinehart,
CIDESCO Diplomat, facial esthetics instructor and
Texas approved CEU provider to develop a medical
esthetics clinical skin care program for the community.
The hospital-based curriculum includes a medical
esthetics training program for physicians, nurses
and estheticians. www.medicalaesthetics.com

NOTEWORTHY
PROMOTION
Mack Software, Inc. is proud
to announce the promotion
of Sylvia Mutong to training
specialist. Mutong has been a
technical support associate for
Mack Software for more than
two years. In her new positition,
she will be responsible for
the training of new clients.
www.macksoftware.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #213 on reader service card

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #188 on reader service card
Page 104 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green corner|gradual greening
by Janet McCormick

T
HE SPA INDUSTRY IS EXPERI-
encing a trend towards “green,” Reduce the amount of water you
a concept embodied as a de- use in your room and you will save
sire to become more earth-friendly. How energy and minimize water waste.
could anyone possibly argue with that
purpose? But what about those of us
who are not in control or are located in a
building that is so old, it could not even
go chartreuse, let alone true green? The
widespread push to be green may make
people who would like to be eco-friend-
ly but believe they cannot feel guilty.
However, there are some easy changes when the room is occupied and auto- front lights of the vending machine can
we can make in our energy consumption matically turns off when it is vacant. The reduce their energy usage substantially,
habits to minimize our carbon footprints eco-gadget helps to keep the room en- saving $100 a year in energy consump-
and make a significant impact on our ergy efficient without any monitoring. tion. Plug them into a timing device that
environment as a whole. Be efficient with temperature con- automatically shuts them off during the
Turn off the computer when you leave trol. If your spa does not have a digital business’ closing hours.
for the day. Leaving computers on all thermostat, suggest one. They are cheap Following these suggestions is merely
night costs a minimum of $45 per year and easily pay for themselves in savings. the first step in altering energy consump-
in energy consumption, and that rate is If that is not possible, turn the thermostat tion habits, but they are good ideas for
rising. The computers that cannot be shut down in the winter and up in the summer initiating change. As we reduce our car-
down should at least have their moni- as much as possible while still keeping bon footprint, we become aware of other
tors and printers turned off or placed your clients comfortable. A difference of changes we can make and steadily move
on energy savings during closed hours. just one degree dramatically changes the towards the energy conscious lifestyle we
Only wash full loads of laundry, and amount of energy consumed. should all be striving for. n
use cold water. The dishwasher should Control water consumption. Reduce
also only be run when packed full. It is the amount of water you use in your room Janet McCormick is a licensed estheti-
questionable whether hand washing dish- to save energy and minimize water waste. cian and manicurist, sought-after trainer
es saves any water and energy in com- Then take a look at all of the services the and former spa director who has owned
parison to washing a full load of dishes, so spa provides to determine where drier her own salons. She is a CIDESCO
there is no reason to feel guilty about let- methods can be incorporated while still Diplomat and a certified medical nail
ting the machine take care of that chore. keeping the spa-mode intact. For exam- technician. McCormick has written more
But do turn off the drying cycle. ple, some spas are doing dry pedicures, than 400 highly respected articles in
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Yanik Chauvin

Close the doors of unused rooms. a non-soak method that still pampers beauty industry magazines and books.
Utility rooms, store rooms, conference and relaxes clients but lowers the ser- She is the co-owner of Medinail Learning
rooms, etc. should be kept closed when vice water consumption by 90 percent. Center, a provider of modular online
they are not in use to reduce their con- Turn off the display lights. Unnec­ and school courses to train nail tech-
sumption of heat. Lights, of course, essary chronic lighting from vending nicians in safe techniques. She can be
should be left off also. Consider using machines and advertising displays reached at janetgmccormick@aol.com
energy “brains” that keep the light on should be turned off. Shutting off the or 863.273.9134.

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 105
photos courtesy of Serenity Spa
GOING GREEN
FROM THE GROUND UP
THE ULTIMATE REALM
OF SERENITY SPA
IN NORMAN, OK

Page 106 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green spa

BY CASSANDRA RAFUSE

W
ALKING INTO THE ULTIMATE REALM Despite the difficulty of finding earth-friendly construc-
of Serenity Spa in Norman, OK, you are tion materials, Marsh was prepared for the challenge and
immediately transported to a traditional met it head on. “I took it upon myself to take the time to
Southeast Asian homestead, where the research ways to go green,” she says proudly. “I did not hire
windows are shuttered with wooden blinds to block out the a ‘green’ contractor to guide me through the construction
brilliant sunlight and the floors are made of smooth, golden process. The contractors we did have, however, were very
bamboo. In the background, water trickling upon stones can understanding about the fact that we wanted to be green.”
be heard and textured, clay-colored walls surround you in a Relaying this information to the building team early on es-
warm, ageless embrace. tablished the spa’s ecological philosophy, which enabled
The timeless environment is truly the ultimate illusion of Marsh to work as a green project manager responsible for
serenity. It is hard to believe the spa is not even a year old, sourcing the spa’s most important materials.
having just opened their doors in September of 2009. It is not Just from looking at The Ultimate Realm of Serenity’s in-
the youth of the business or its Zen-like décor that is Ultimate door décor, it is hard to determine which materials are eco-
Realm of Serenity’s most endearing quality. Rather, it is the friendly. They are all so beautifully manufactured and work
fact that the spa was conceived entirely as an ecologically- so well within the space that they give no indication of being
sound facility from the initial planning stages. “non-traditional.” The floors are made of bamboo, the fast-
“When the spa was still just an idea written up in a busi- est growing and most renewable woody plant on the planet,
ness plan, it was already determined that it would be an eco- and are affixed with a solvent-free adhesive. The energy ef-
friendly, or green spa,” recalls Monica Marsh, Ultimate Realm ficient ceiling tiles are made of recyclable materials. A tank
of Serenity’s owner and manager. “In this industry, our main free water heater provides hot water on demand, and even
purpose is to restore, enhance and maintain wellness of body, the gorgeous louvered doors, so evocative of Bali, are made
mind and spirit of people and nature as a whole. Contributing up of more than 86 percent recycled content and have been
to the green movement was of incredible importance to us.” coated with a non-hazardous water-based primer. In addition
Throughout history, humanity has always constructed its to the spa’s internal structure, they feature three organic skin
buildings from resources found within local regions. From the care lines, offer locally grown organic foods and have adopted
humblest of huts to the great sandstone pyramids of Giza, a reduce/reuse/recycle program. They actively encourage all
humans have always built with green materials, using nothing staff to participate, which has led several team members to
but manpower and old-fashioned ingenuity. Throughout the introduce certain green practices in their own homes.
centuries we developed advanced building techniques that “I have been thanked by clients for opening a green spa
allowed us to create the soaring Gothic cathedrals and sturdy here in Oklahoma,” Marsh comments. “Green establish-
medieval castles, yet we never compromised the Earth in our ments set great examples for the general public to follow.
pursuit of bigger, more impressive architecture. However, during It creates an awareness that otherwise wouldn’t be there.”
the Victorian era we began to see a shift in building practices Whether opening a new spa or renovating a pre-existing
as the Industrial Age introduced us to manufactured materials. one, it is possible to incorporate eco-materials if you are
Soon, concrete, bricks and glass became commonplace. By the willing to dedicate some extra time to the project. Consider
middle of the twentieth century, steel plastic polymers and en- the following tips to ease the upgrade as much as possible:
gineered fiber boards were the norm on many building sites. Start local. Check with your city or state to see if they
Though clay, stone and wood are still major components have a green initiatives program. Such programs may also
in construction and manufactured materials, the industri- exist independently, sponsored by local businesses or edu-
al processing of these materials leaves a massive carbon cational facilities. They can be a wealth of information about
footprint with each square meter that is built or renovated. what is available in your area.
Energy is expended to produce each kilogram of every type Search the Internet. There is a wealth of information
of building material. Concrete, polystyrene and fiberglass on the Web, and it is definitely the best place to compare
are some of the least earth-friendly materials, but they are materials for both their green quality and their price. Green
found in almost all buildings. websites can help source products and provide ideas to help
The trend towards green building is slowly beginning to establish an Earth-friendly business. The Green Spa Network
take hold. In the last decade, eco-materials have become (GSN) is an organization that promotes sustainability in the
easier to find in Western European countries, and they can spa industry and helps connect eco-conscious clients with
now be purchased at local home renovation centers. As the like-minded spas. The Ultimate Realm of Serenity Spa is a
trend sweeps across the Atlantic, green building materials member of the GSN.
will become more available in the years to come. continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 107
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #162 on reader service card
green spa|going green from the ground up

“The demand for


organic, natural and
healthy products and
services is steadily
PROFESSIONAL
Aromatherapy skin and Body Care
increasing worldwide.”

tional time for delivery and installation.


Age
Unconventional materials may cause
delays, forcing you to change plans in
the middle of construction, so it is smart
Defying
to keep an open mind and be flexible. Skin Care
When it comes to building, the bottom
line is that time equals money, and if with Lumisphere
Check local building regulations. you are losing time trying to implement
If you want to truly embrace the green all your green initiatives, you may need Technology
movement and install solar panels, to make alterations to keep yourself
grey-water recycling, composting toi- out of debt.
lets, or build with unconventional ma- As we return to more ecologically-
terials such as straw bales, thatch and sound construction practices, we are
ground-filled rubber tires, you should more likely to see these green materials
find out what is legally permissible in used in our wellness establishments—
your area. As a commercial establish- our health clinics, our gyms and our
ment, for public safety and insurance spas. “The demand for organic, natural
purposes, you may be somewhat lim- and healthy products and services is
ited in how far you are actually able to steadily increasing worldwide,” Marsh
take your green initiatives. It is best to points out. “Clients love the concept
find out before committing to any plan. of having a local green and holistic day
Make your eco-plans known at spa, and it separates us from other day Natural, Organic and Paraben Free
the start. If you do not plan on hiring spas. Clients are very grateful and ex-
an ecological consultant to help plan cited that we have become part of the Carefully selected, all natural
your building or renovation, mention community. Our approach has intrigued plant based ingredients combined
your plans for green construction when many people.” with the latest advances in skin
looking for your builders and trades The Ultimate Realm of Serenity Spa
care technology.
people. Do not wait until you have al- is a shining example of the ultimate
ready hired a team to introduce your green spa, sustainable and successful Antiaging, Firming and Lifting,
ideas and eco-materials, as some may from the very start. n
Hyper-pigmentation Treatments
require more time to install or a special
technique may need to be learned. Find
1.800.461.3745
a foreman and builders that are willing Cassandra Rafuse
to work with you as a project manager is a master herb- www.eve-taylor.com
and are enthusiastic about going green alist, licensed
with the build. That will save numerous makeup artist and
headaches and disagreements later on. an expert in spa
Budget for more time and money therapies from
than you expect will be necessary. around the world.
MEMBER
Even traditional builds run over, both She is the own-
in time and cost, by about 15 percent er of Amrita Spa
business focused training
of the planned schedule and budget. Solutions in Fredericton, New Brunswick,
In general, eco-materials cost more, Canada. She can be reached via email
professional • affordable • proven
trusted • uncomplicated
and you may need to schedule addi- at crafuse@amritaspasolutions.com.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #228
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 109
green spa

renewable
ECO-FRIENDLY

NATURAL

WORD WISE
DEFINING
“GREEN”
BY TARA MANNA

AS WE BECOME MORE AWARE OF THE IMPACT OUR Organic: Crops produced according to organic stan-

nut oil: ©Dreamstime.com/Olena Yaremova; olive branch: © Onur Ersin/Dreamstime.com; cotton: © Kenji Takeichi/Dreamstime.com; coffee: © Digitalvalley/Dreamstime.com
actions have on the environment and recommit to leaving dards have been raised without the use of chemical pesti-
our children with a beautiful world to enjoy and prosper in, cides. Examples include artificial fertilizers, sludge and hu-
the word “green” has taken on a new meaning. Originally man waste. In addition to crops, meats have been added
associated with an Old English word meaning “to grow,” it to the category, which means the animals they come from
has morphed into various connotations describing inexpe- have been fed natural grains without the help of antibiotics
rience, sickness, envy, money and abundance. These days, or hormones to enhance growth. In the United States the
the term “green” conjures up thoughts of words such as certification of “organic” is allowed only when producers
organic, sustainable, non-toxic, environmentally friendly, adhere to specific standards. Genetic modification does
anti-animal testing and renewable. not meet the standard of organic.
As pioneers in trendsetting, the spa industry is raising In the U.S., federal organic legislation defines three levels
awareness and responding to the global movement. As peo- of organics. Products made entirely with certified organic
ple’s consciousness about what they are putting into their body ingredients and methods may be labeled “100% organic.”
increases and awareness for what is possibly being soaked Those with 95 percent organic ingredients can call themselves
into the bloodstream expands, ingredients are more often organic. Both may display the United States Department of
being scrutinized and carefully observed before a product is Agriculture (USDA) organic seal. A third category, contain-
purchased. One of the most poignant examples that changed ing a minimum of 70 percent organic ingredients, can be
the way consumers thought about what they put on their skin labeled “made with organic ingredients.” Product labels
was the introduction of birth control and nicotine patches. A may also display the logo of the certification body that ap-
small square of Band-Aid type material that adheres to the proved them. Those made with less than 70 percent organic
body and absorbs the hormones or other ingredients into ingredients may not be advertised as organic, and can only
the bloodstream? What a concept! So, if it is possible for in- mention the organic nature of the product’s ingredients in
gredients within a patch to seep into the blood, how about the ingredient statement.
the ingredients in our skin care products and body lotions? As of June 2007, the USDA was considering allowing 38
To gain further insight into the “green craze,” let us first non-organic ingredients to be used in “organic” foods. As
examine the meanings of some of the words we are bom- the demand for organic foods increases, consumers are be-
barded with daily: eco-friendly, organic, renewable, sustain- ing hounded with the term “natural,” which is unregulated
able, non-toxic, environmentally friendly and anti-animal and rather convoluted.
testing. Keep in mind that the majority of these definitions Natural: According to USDA regulations, the term “natu-
are a bit paradoxical at best. ral” may be applied only to products that contain no chemical

Page 110 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
NON-TOXIC
ORGANIC
preservatives or artificial or coloring ingredients—and they with face cradles and perhaps even 4x4 squares. It may be
must be minimally processed, if at all. a challenge at first—but think renewable and reusable here.
Eco-friendly/environmentally friendly: Refers to goods Cotton and hemp are renewable and reusable materials that
and services that inflict minimal harm on the environment. are sturdy and easy to find. That may even cut some of your
Within the U.S., these terms have no federal standard and operational costs. And do not forget the more “natural” bio-
are unregulated; thus they are often utilized to positively degradable laundry detergents.
market goods and services. Light: Utilize natural light for as long as you can during
Renewable: Natural resources may be considered re- the day, and use soy and cotton-wick candles or LED oper-
newable when the rate of reproduction is comparable to ated lights to add ambiance in the treatment rooms. Energy
the rate of consumption. efficient light bulbs can be purchased at any hardware store.
Sustainable: In its environmental definition, sustainable Obtaining them is a positive step towards going green. For a
refers to the natural longevity of ecological support systems; greater immediate investment, look into adding solar panels
human ecosystems and those that it depends upon. The goal to your rooftop and watch your energy bills go down.
within this mentality is to transfer modern society from one Miscellaneous operations: Keep a recycle bin for office
that is on an inevitable path of collapse to one that can “sus- and computer paper, magazines and plastic water bottles
tain” itself indefinitely. as well as distilled water for steamers. Buy washable mugs
Non-toxic: Not producing harm, illness or damage to or glasses instead of plastics that will be discarded. Use
the exposed organism. environmentally friendly cleaning products and essential oil
Against animal testing/not tested on animals: These based air fresheners. Whatever you can do to reduce your
terms have a couple of different meanings. They could sim- waste and consumption of the artificial will move you ahead.
ply mean that the final product was not tested on animals,
or that the company chooses to purchase ingredients from Ingredients
suppliers that do not test on animals. This is another convo- Choose sustainable crops as ingredients in your products and
luted term because at some point, individual ingredients that highlight them in treatments. Seek out dedicated produc-
make up final products may have been tested on animals. ers who are replanting what is being harvested. Connecting
In addition, the U.S. has strict product safety standards that with fair trade farmers enhances your commitment to going
sometimes make it necessary to test on animals. green while developing a holistic partnership with produc-
So, how do you incorporate eco-friendly products into ers. The following is a list of sustainable crop ingredients you
your treatment rooms and spas? Here are a few ideas to get can incorporate into your treatments and spa atmosphere:
you started on your quest for wholesomeness for the sake Coffee: Use as a body exfoliant. The caffeine enhances
of your clients and the environment. lymphatic drainage, the grit of the ground beans exfoliates
beautifully and the aroma awes the senses.
Spa resources Cocoa: A rich antioxidant, cocoa can be used to enhance
Linens: Recycle your disposable habits with linens. Focus more moisturizers or exfoliants, or as a natural treat you can offer
on linens you wash and reuse. You may already be doing this your guests before or after their services. Get creative with
with towels and sheets, however practice those same habits continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 111
Olive oil: A fruit oil obtained from the olive tree, olive oil
is rich in antioxidants, vitamin E, vitamin K and both omega
3 and omega 6 fatty acids. Dubbed “liquid gold” by Homer,
this oil is a wonderful humectant and moisturizer that some
people even use directly on their body.
Shea butter (Karite): Made from gathered nuts from the
shea tree, shea butter is an extremely hydrating ingredient
for moisturizers and creams. The tree is based in Africa, so
it is a great ingredient to use to establish Fair Trade partner-
ships with, which enhances and develops your commitment
to the holistic community.
Nut oils: Macadamia, sesame, sunflower, walnut, apri-
cot, hazelnut, hemp seed, kukui, neem, olive, rosehip, wheat
germ—all of these oils have amazing properties and can be
used for different purposes—either alone or as an additive.
Pure essential oils and herbs: Enhance all products with
the holistic and olfactory properties of essential oils.
Aloe vera: The hardy plant is not difficult to grow and
harvest for a few treatments. During the summer, the cool-
ness of the aloe vera gel feels amazing and the healing
properties restore damaged skin. Plus, treat your aloe plant
to organic gardening practices to follow a completely green
commitment.

Spread the word


Now that you have made the green commitment, get the
word out! Share your intentions with your community, and
most likely the news will operate on a few levels. For those
Pure essential oils and herbs: Enhance spa clients who are already savvy about living the green life-
all products with the holistic and olfactory style, you will attract their respect and maybe earn a new
properties of essential oils. client base. For those clients who are just learning about
the trend, you have learned ways to experience the lifestyle
firsthand, and so you have an opportunity to educate them
about organic, natural and renewable resources.
different forms of cocoa. For some of us, there is nothing In the end, the decision to go green must come from your
better than chocolate! heart. Understanding and taking care of the environment
Bamboo: A versatile plant, bamboo provides dietary is the least we all can do to create change and modify our
fiber in food and is transformed into material for clothing, previous perspective of the world. So do more than just join
flooring, musical instruments and paper. The wondrous re- in the green craze—also train! Learn about it and thought-
source can grow up to a meter each day, and may be used fully make a commitment to do your part. The world, your
as an exfoliant in spa products or as a vehicle for massage community, staff and clients will thank you. n
and a natural element for décor.
Hemp: Used for its oil and fiber, hemp can be utilized
as material for many different products, including paper, Tara Manna is a working estheti-
clothing, cotton wicks, bags, diapers, rope, crème, paint, cian and co-founder of Aesthetic
soaps and more. It is a versatile fibrous plant that is heavily Professionals Alliance, a network or-
resistant to pests and matures quickly. Offer hemp products ganization dedicated to all Aesthetic
photo: ©Dreamstime.com/Trinette Reed

in your retail boutique to help support and educate clients professionals worldwide, alongside
about the great natural resource. Juju Rodrigues. The intention of the
Seaweed: The ocean plant can grow up to a foot per organization is to support, define
day when the oceans are calm and swells are not disturbing and increase the quality, expecta-
the underwater forests. A resource rich in vitamins, miner- tions and professional successes of
als and trace elements, seaweed has long been used as an the esthetician. Please visit www.aestheticpros.com or email
ingredient in masks, creams, bath soaks and more. info@aestheticpros.com.

Page 112 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green spa|news ecofriendly skin and spa products and therapies

DAYTIME RENEWAL
Ossetra’s Anti-Oxidant Day Crème
revitalizes and nourishes skin, making
it supple, radiant and luminous. Made
up of iceberg water with a pH of 5 and
age fighting antioxidants, Anti-Oxidant
HOLISTIC HYDRATION Day Crème contains no toxins, parabens
The Sensiderm Stress Protect Cream and is 100 percent natural and organic,
from Dr. med Christine Schrammek says the company. www.ossetra.ca
is a great product to offer those
clients who suffer from extremely
dry skin. It is a day and night
emollient cream for dry and irritated
skin types that contains precious NATURAL NOURISHMENT
active ingredients that immediately Feed skin with the Herb Rich Oil from
diminish stress symptoms and De La Terre Skincare®, a serum that
help reduce the skin’s sensitivity to goes beyond moisturizing the skin.
external irritants, says the company. The creative composition of herbs
The conscientious cream contains protects and restores injured skin, reduces
no perfumes, alcohol, parabens, inflammation, manages oil and replenishes
coloring agents, PEG derivatives or chronic dehydration, says the company.
mineral oils. www.schrammek.de www.delaterreskincare.com

GENTLE RUBDOWN
Bio-Origin® treatment formulas contain
optimal doses of state-of-the-art ingredients
and are derived from natural plant and
mineral sources. The refreshing Silky
photo: © Onur Ersin/Dreamstime.com

Massage Gel is light and airy in texture


with an enduring glide that contains natural
oils of sunflower, grape seed, safflower
seed and a rich combination of shea and
mango butters, says the company. All
Bio Origin massage products are eco-
certified. www.biooriginexperience.com

MORE NEWS

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 113
green spa|news

NATURAL WONDER Dr. Grandel introduces Elements of Nature,


a natural line of Epigran-based skin care products with a smooth texture and
pleasant scent. Epigran is an extract of actives found in wheat germ and made
in Dr. Grandel’s own manufacturing facilities. The multi-active concentrate,
made from wheat germ and plant-source enzymes, tones and smoothens the
skin, refines texture, reduces the depth of lines and delivers intense hydration,
says the company. The ECO Control certified line of natural products offers
the right care for every skin type and condition. www.grandel-usa.com

THOROUGH FLOWER POWER


BEAUTY Facial Nourishment Geranium from Enessa
Diamond Way moisturizes and soothes normal to dry skin types.
Ayurveda presents The proprietary essential oil blend combines
their collection of certified organic golden jojoba ester and organic
pure organic oils, essential oils of geranium, rosewood and lavender.
which are intended Each of these properties serves a key function, and
to provide both internal and external benefits, they work together to slow down moisture loss,
such as invigorating the skin, refreshing the improve elasticity, detoxify skin, reduce redness
body, calming and clearing the mind and and repair broken blood vessels, smooth out wrinkles and renew
awakening positive feelings. The oils are cells, says the company. To top off the extensive list of benefits,
ethically traded, according to the company. the diffused geranium essential oil may have a powerful effect on
www.DiamondWayAyurveda.com moods, stimulating and uplifting the psyche. www.enessa.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #188 on reader service card
Page 114 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green spa|news

NATURAL WONDER Dr. Grandel introduces Elements of Nature,


a natural line of Epigran-based skin care products with a smooth texture and
pleasant scent. Epigran is an extract of actives found in wheat germ and made
in Dr. Grandel’s own manufacturing facilities. The multi-active concentrate,
made from wheat germ and plant-source enzymes, tones and smoothens the
skin, refines texture, reduces the depth of lines and delivers intense hydration,
says the company. The ECO Control certified line of natural products offers
the right care for every skin type and condition. www.grandel-usa.com

THOROUGH HOLISTIC HYDRATION


BEAUTY Facial Nourishment Geranium from Enessa
Diamond Way moisturizes and soothes normal to dry skin types.
Ayurveda presents The proprietary essential oil blend combines
their collection of certified organic golden jojoba ester and organic
pure organic oils, essential oils of geranium, rosewood and lavender.
which are intended Each of these properties serves a key function, and
to provide both internal and external benefits, they work together to slow down moisture loss,
such as invigorating the skin, refreshing the improve elasticity, detoxify skin, reduce redness
body, calming and clearing the mind and and repair broken blood vessels, smooth out wrinkles and renew
awakening positive feelings. The oils are cells, says the company. To top off the extensive list of benefits,
ethically traded, according to the company. the diffused geranium essential oil may have a powerful effect on
www.DiamondWayAyurveda.com moods, stimulating and uplifting the psyche. www.enessa.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #188 on reader service card
Page 114 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
image|brows that wow
by Aliesh Pierce

N
OTHING COMPLETES YOUR “Using the apex as the pivot point,
client’s face like a pair of well rotate the stencil so that it is in align-
groomed brows. All aspiring ment with the brow line,” he instructs
estheticians learn about brow dimen- his students.
sions in school, so we are familiar with
the general rules. The inner corner of Different strokes
the brow should start in alignment with The follicle of Asian hair is implanted
the outer edge of the nostril. The arch in the dermis at a perpendicular an-
should sit directly outside the iris, and gle, which causes hair to grow straight.
brows should taper off in a diagonal line Create the perfect shape by trimming
with the nose. As a new esthetician, it under the brow line. Try using an off
can be challenging to master the tech- black powder for a soft look.
nique of sliding the wax strip up to the African brows are often curly. Use
desired edge to achieve that perfectly caution when trimming hairs, as they
clean line. However, if your spa offers tend to curl back. Use a dark brown
professional makeup services, that is powder and set with a brow fixative.
just the beginning. Your new mission is Nordic brows often have small, fair
to subtly correct those little flaws that stragglers. These should be waxed or re- photography by Neil A. France
may not be noticeable on a bare face. moved with pointy tweezers. Light taupe
To complete a professional makeup ap- pencils work best for Nordic brows. ible with client’s shape over the brow
plication, you need to have an arsenal of Whether you are using a pencil or Step 3: Dip angle brush in darkest
tools on hand so you are prepared for powder, these simple steps ensure that color to line the front area
any client that walks through your door. your client walks out of your spa with Step 4: Fill in front end of
My experience working with famed the perfect brow. stencil with lighter color
female impersonator Kevin Aviance Step 5: Pivot stencil at arch
taught me that brows are sisters, not Freehand technique to align with tail end
twins. No pair is perfect. It is the profes- Step 1: Brush brow into place Step 6: Reinforce brow with
sional’s job to balance the brows without Step 2: Outline the lower edge to a straight line
making them look unnatural. The rule reinforce brow A well-balanced brow has the ef-
is to make the brows slightly lighter for Step 3: Choose either a thin pencil or fect of a non-surgical face lift. Your cli-
clients with dark hair. For those with light brow powder with a small angle brush ent is sure to hear “oohs” and “aahs”
hair, go a shade or two darker. You also Step 4: Lightly feather small hairlike and “wows” about her brows. n
need to take the face shape into con- marks into the arch
sideration, making small adjustments to Step 5: Draw a thin, straight line Aliesh Pierce is a makeup artist, li-
help balance bone structure as much as connecting the arch and tail end censed esthetician, educator and free-
possible. While the current trend leans Step 6: Brush a fixative into brows to lance writer. She has created stunning
towards fuller brows, not all of them are hold hairs in place looks for Milan runways, New York-
capable of growing out. based music videos and Los Angeles
Robert Hensley, the director of ed- Pro tips for red carpets, as well as print work in
ucation at Sormé, suggests that brow stenciling kits several countries. Her personal mis-
stencils are meant as a guide that should Step 1: Brush brows into place sion is to “help women create their
be adjusted to fit your client’s face. Step 2: Hold the stencil most compat- own definition of beauty.”

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 115
eye
ENHANCEMENT
fuller, thicker, sultry lashes
The difference between prescription and over-the-counter
products is not necessarily in the price, but rather the avail-
ability, packaging, ease of use—and depending upon the
ingredients—extent of performance. Your clients will appre-
ciate the relative ease of using over the counter products, as

Estheticians spend inordinate


amounts of time and energy researching
the products that they intend to retail,
which inspired my philosophy that the
body is the esthetician’s laboratory.

they do not have to worry about being cautious with their


BY LAURA ROOT application, and the product does last longer and reaps great
results. Because these products do not require a prescription,
THE RAVAGES OF AGE AFFECT NOT ONLY THE professionals are legally prohibited from stating that they
appearance of the skin, but also the hair. Many people find make lashes grow, so they may only say that lashes can ap-
that their once luxurious locks begin to thin as they move into pear healthier or fuller. Most spa and salon lash products do
the higher age brackets. Aging also deals a blow to our brows exhibit some improvement in the appearance of the lashes
and eyelashes. Even those blessed with long and thick lashes or brows within four to six weeks.
see their follicles become challenged as they age. Over the Savvy estheticians want to offer their clients the best
last few years, we have been introduced to products marketed products available, and eyelash enhancement products are
to address these concerns, including many that produce great no exception. Why would an esthetician offer these prod-
results. But how did they come about, and what is the dif- ucts to their clients when a prescription product (drug) is
ference between professional products available to licensed available through physicians? Some clients may not want
estheticians and those sold exclusively in physician’s offices? to spend additional time and money on an appointment
As it happens with many breakthroughs, the effect of certain continues
types of drugs on lash length and thickness was discovered
by accident. The lash enhancement effect was uncovered
through the use of a prescription product that contains the
active ingredient Bimatoprost, which is a prostaglandin ana- The science behind lash enhancement
log, by glaucoma patients. According to Allergan, who owns Prostaglandins are hormone-
the patent for the prostaglandin analog for hypotrichosis, or like substances that are syn-
hair loss, the exact mechanism of action is unknown, but the thesized from arachidonic
receptors are “thought to be involved in the development and acid, which helps to regulate
regrowth of the hair follicle by increasing the percentage of various bodily functions such
hairs in—and the duration of—the anagen, or growth phase.” as metabolism, blood pres-
So what does all of this mean to us? Researchers now sure and smooth muscle ac-
understand more about the problems of hair loss, and esthe- tivity. They act as chemical messengers but work within
ticians and cosmetologists are using the science to market the cells where they are synthesized, which is in virtually
new products to their clients. every cell of the body. Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) also
While the prescription-only product has made headlines, modulates inflammation, and is released by blood ves-
there are still a number of over-the-counter products avail- sel walls in response to infection or inflammation that
able to licensed professionals that produce good results. acts on the brain to induce fever.
Numerous skin care product manufacturers have developed Researchers present prostaglandin analogs for stimu-
non-prostaglandin alternative products to enhance lash and lating growth of hair, as well as possibly having an inhibi-
brow growth using a wide variety of performance ingredients. tory effect on cause of alopecia. Dermatology reports
photo: © John Takai/Dreamstime.com

Professional lash enhancement products include a multitude state that the analog appears to have an affect on the
of peptides, vitamins A, B, C and E, phosphatidylcholine, inflammatory response, which we can now blame for a
growth factors, stem cells and botanicals such as white lu- number of aging issues, including hair loss. Survey of
pine, sweet almond seed extract, chamomile, green tea, Opthalmology reports that it also appears to be able to
wheat protein, cinnamon bark extract, horse chestnut, white induce the anagen phase in telogen phase follicles, as
tea leaf extract and copper. well as prolong the anagen phase of hair cycles.

Page 116 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
photo: Image Source/Getty Images image

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 117
image|eye enhancement

Ease of use due to an eyeliner type of


tube gives most of the spa and salon
eyelash products an advantage over
the current prescriptive product.

with a doctor just to get a prescription for their eyelashes;


others may be concerned about the cautions or potential
side-effects that are printed in the advertisements they see
in magazines or on the product itself.
The relationship between a client and her esthetician is
based on trust, and most clients know that skin care pro-
fessionals generally do not sell products that they have not
used themselves.
Estheticians spend inordinate amounts of time and energy
researching the products that they intend to retail, which is
why I believe in the philosophy that the body is the estheti-
cian’s laboratory.
As estheticians, we want to know about the ingredients
used in our products, how they work and if they are effec-
tive. Eyelash enhancement products are unusual because
the client sees the difference for themselves within a mat-
ter of weeks (a photographic difference if the esthetician is
on the ball), and the client tells all of her friends about the
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #325 on reader service card
success of a product, resulting in referrals and future sales
for the esthetician!
A well-placed (and well-priced) product display sells it-
self, especially when it is personally recommended by the
skin care clinic staff. Ease of use due to an eyeliner type
of tube gives most of the spa and salon eyelash products
an advantage over the current prescriptive product, and
the lifespan of six months as opposed to the one month
quantity available through prescription usually seals the
deal. Do your research, educate yourself about your cho-
sen product, enlighten your clients about the benefits of
eyelash enhancement products through e-mail newsletters,
special flyers in the skin care clinic and a display near your
appointment desk and enjoy great results on your clients’
lashes as well as your bottom line! n

Laura Root is licensed in esthetics


and nail technology in Arizona and
Oregon, and is a nationally certified
surgical technologist and international
CIDESCO Diplomate. Root is the direc-
tor of product formulation and educa-
tion for Antiqua Prima. She is also the
author of four books for the skin care
professional, including The Skin Care
Professional’s Chemistry & Ingredient Handbook. You may
contact Root at llroot@cox.net or visit www.antiquaprima.com.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #138 on reader service card
Page 118 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224 on reader service card
sponsored by DAYSPA magazine with spa business forum

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by Chantal Savinon-Soto

image|ooh la-la glow

healthy hue

W
ITH SUMMER ALMOST and highlighting foundation is as fol-
here, tanned, healthy look- lows: Go one or two shades darker than
ing skin is one of our top your client’s normal skin tone for con-
requests from clients. As professional touring and one to two shades lighter
makeup artists, we should be knowl- for highlighting.
edgeable about how to create this look
without making our clients look like the Contour:
oompa loompas from the movie Willy • The top of the forehead, where
Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. The the hairline meets the skin
first thing we must understand is the • Underneath the cheekbones
meaning of the phrase “lit-from-within • The sides of the nose
glow.” It is that healthy, dewy look you • The upper part of the bridge
take on when you have been graciously of the nose
kissed by the sun, perhaps in a fabu- • Underneath the tip of
lous sunny place while on vacation. the nose to shorten it
Clients often request that look, which is
a “must” among top celebrities, as one Apply highlighter:
can see from looking at any magazine • Under the eyes
cover. Follow these easy steps to cre- • On the lower part of the nose
ate that ooh la-la glow for your clients. • In the middle of the forehead
• Underneath the brow bone
Step 1: Prep the skin • At the center of the chin
Begin with fresh, clean and moistur-
ized skin. When skin is moist, makeup Step 3: Foundation
goes on smoother and sits better on the Using a separate brush, I applied a
face. At this point, I have prepped skin thin layer of cream beige foundation
with moisturizer, eye cream and primer. all over Angelina’s face, which I thor-
oughly blended with the contouring
Step 2: Conceal, and highlighting to create a smooth
contour and highlight and seamless finish.
The purpose of concealing, contouring
and highlighting is to build the face. Step 4: Blush,
Apply a liquid concealer under the eyes eyes, powder and lips
to cover dark circles using a cream vari- Blush: I applied a peachy-pink blush
ety, which has a heavier consistency to in a circular motion on the apples of
cover blemishes and scars. A general the cheeks.
rule of thumb for selecting contouring continues

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 121
Eyes: To enhance Angelina’s beau- a line across the top of her lid, connect-
tiful blue-green eyes, I applied neutral ing it with the lower lash line.
tones. I filled in her eyebrows with a A light beige eyeshadow is a great
taupe pencil to complement her blonde color for the brow bone to “bring out”
hair. A wash of a shimmery salmon the area before lining the inner rim of
toned eyeshadow is applied all over her eyes with a black pencil and curling
the eyelid (avoiding the brow bone), the lashes. False lashes add some glam-
followed by a medium brown matte our to the look, and a final application
shadow in the crease and underneath of two coats of mascara to the root of
the lower lashes to create a soft smoky her natural lashes. I do not recommend
effect. Using a black liquid liner, I drew applying mascara to false lashes, as it
creates a very unnatural affect.

Powder: To set the look, I used a


small concealer brush dipped in trans-
lucent powder in the following areas:
under the eyes, on the sides of the
nostrils and on top of the cheekbones.
I then used a large puff to set the re-
maining areas with translucent powder.
Lips: To keep Angelina’s lips light
and neutral, they were lined and filled
with a flesh toned lip pencil and finished
with the addition of a light peachy-pink
gloss for a sexy pout.
Follow these easy steps and you
will be well on your way to creating the
sultry ooh la-la glow! n

Makeup: Chantal Savinon-Soto


Hairstylist: Mirna Gabriel
Photography: Paul Cobo Photography
Model: Angelina Zubrilina

Chantal Savinon-
Soto is a board
certified esthe-
tician, makeup
artist, educator,
speaker and con-
tributing beauty
expert with more
than 13 years of
experience. She is the founder and
owner of Chantal Sauvignon, Inc. in
Miami, Florida. She specializes in mul-
timedia, production, commercial, and
print. To contact Chantal please visit her
website www.chantalsauvignon.com,
email chantal@chantalsauvignon.com
or call 786.877.2712.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #104 on reader service card
Page 122 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
image |news
spa|news makeup, tools
body, equipment and trends
and supply products

SMOOTH
ENHANCEMENT
Improve your clients’ brows
with the Fountain of Youthful
Color Eyebrow Mousse, the
latest innovation from blinc. BRAND NAME
The one-of-a-kind novelty TRANSITION
cosmetic provides water-resistant Professional lash product
color, fills in sparse areas and line Xtended Beauty
tames brows as effectively as has transitioned into
a gel. In addition to providing the new Reese Robert
long-lasting smudge-proof Beauty Collection. In
performance, the mousse addition to strip lashes and professional lash extensions,
provides anti-aging treatment the Reese Robert Collection also includes professional
to the skin beneath the brow. beauty tools and high quality cosmetic brushes. In
www.blincinc.com the upcoming months, Reese Robert Beauty will be
launching several new product lines including professional
strip lashes, scissors, tweezers, professional cosmetic
brushes and skin care products. The quality of Xtended
Beauty products will be continued under the new brand
name, says the company. www.Reeserobert.com

FABULOUS FACE MAKER Create a complexion with lasting


luminosity and sun protection for your clients with the new Mineral Powder
Foundation SPF 15 from Your Name Professionals. The silky mineral-
rich powder builds from a translucent finish into a full-coverage foundation
that does not cake or settle into lines, says the company. It is enriched
with the company’s exclusive Dermat Complex™ to absorb excess oil
without drying, reduce the appearance of pores, refine skin texture and
improve overall appearance. It is designed to be gentle enough for all
skin types, including post-operative skin. www.yournamepro.com

MORE NEWS

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 123
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image|news

BEAUTY BOOSTER
GloProfessional recently part-
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to mask skin blemishes, scars, burns and bruising.
Made with 100 percent natural
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May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 125
WEST | CENTRAL | EAST | CANADA

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

West Appearance Counseling for Patient Coordinator Training for


Image Development Coaching Caring Professionals With
by Center for Appearance & Esteem. Extensive Management &
San Francisco, CA. 415.398.6013. Marketing Backgrounds
MAY (ONGOING) Distance learning available. by Center for Appearance & Esteem.
Advanced Chemical Peels Camouflage Makeup for San Francisco, CA.
with Skin Assessment Cosmetic Rehabilitation Certification 415.398.6013.
by A Natural Difference. by Center for Appearance & Esteem. Distance learning available.
Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. San Francisco, CA. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives
Advanced Chemical Peels Distance learning available. by A Natural Difference.
with Skin Assessment 415.398.6013. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150.
by A Natural Difference. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives
Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Professionals: Integrated by A Natural Difference.
Advanced Chemical Peels Reiki Spa Treatments Long Beach, CA.
with Skin Assessment by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. 888.568.3150.
by A Natural Difference. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives
Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. 626.405.0424. by A Natural Difference.
Alexandria Professional The Heart of Your Operations Seattle, WA.
Body Sugaring Class by Resources & Development. 888.568.3150.
by Lisanne Wilcox at Las Vegas, NV.
Alexandria Professional. 702.436.0371.
Las Vegas, NV. 866.887.8427. Highly Successful Marketing MAY 1
Alexandria Professional of a Medical Spa or a Esthetic Advanced Treatment
Body Sugaring Class Division in a Doctor’s Practice Technologies Seminar
by Lisanne Wilcox at by Center for Appearance & Esteem. by PCA Skin.
Alexandria Professional. San Francisco, CA. Newport Beach, CA.
Los Angeles, CA. 415.398.6013. 877.PCA.SKIN.
866.887.8427. Distance learning available.
Antiqua Prima Level I How to Launch a Medical Esthetic MAY 2
Introductory Classes Practice in a Physician’s Facility Ingredient & Daily Care Product
by Laura L. Root. by Center for Appearance & Esteem. Knowledge (professionals and students)
Webinars held every Monday and San Francisco, CA. 415.398.6013. by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV.
Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 126 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Skin Biology and Chemical Skin Biology and MAY 14
Peel Seminar (students) Chemical Peel Seminar Bio-Therapeutic Institute
by PCA Skin. by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. of Technology Continuing
Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN. Education Bio-Oxygen™
877.PCA.SKIN. by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA.
Skin Biology and Chemical Peel MAY 11 800.976.2544.
Seminar (professionals and students) Advanced Treatment
by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. Technologies Seminar MAY 16
877.PCA.SKIN. by PCA Skin. Skin Biology
Scottsdale, AZ. & Chemical Peel (students)
MAY 3 877.PCA.SKIN. by PCA Skin. Ontario, CA.
Skin Biology and Chemical Bio-Therapeutic Institute of 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Seminar Technology Contining Education
by PCA Skin. Bio-Ultimate Platinum®

Central
Albuquerque, NM. by Bio-Therapeutic.
877.PCA.SKIN. Seattle, WA.
Skin Biology and Chemical 800.976.2544.
Peel Seminar
by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. MAY 12 MAY (ONGOING)
877.PCA.SKIN. Bio-Therapeutic Institute Advanced Chemical Peels
of Technology Continuing with Skin Assessment
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by Melanie and Robert Sachs. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
San Luis Obispo, CA. 800.976.2544. Alexandria Professional
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MAY 13 by Cindy Falke.
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877.PCA.SKIN. 800.976.2544. Canyon, TX. 800.687.8427.

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 127
calendar|central|east

Alexandria Professional Advanced Chemical Peels Designing Your


Body Sugaring Class with Skin Assessment Face: Corrective Makeup
by Lisanne Wilcox. Minneapolis, MN. by A Natural Difference. Techniques for Daytime
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Body Sugaring Class Advanced Chemical Peels 305.444.1999.
by Lorraine Gritten. with Skin Assessment Evening and Glamour
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Antiqua Prima Level I Ft. Lauderdale, FL. by Gabriel Productions.
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by Laura L. Root. Advanced Chemical Peels 305.444.1999.
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by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Webinars held every PMU Permanent
& Spa and Dermascope. Monday and Friday. Makeup Class 40 Hours
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Camouflage Makeup Seasonal Peels
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by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. Career Advancement. 888.568.3150.
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Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. 888.417.2588. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 128 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
calendar|east|canada

MAY 2 MAY 18 MAY 25


Shavasana Eyelash Extensions Sun Damage Biodroga
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Eyelash Extensions. 800.932.0168. 800.932.0168.
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866.544.3553. MAY 19

Canada
How to Build the
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Alexandria Professional
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by PCA Skin. Sugaring Certification Class
MAY 11 Atlanta, GA. by Tina Lehman. Vancouver, BC.
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by PCA Skin. Certification Class
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Charlotte, NC. Shavasana Eyelash Body Sugaring
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Training Course by Cathie Neundorf.
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Sponsored by Les Nouvelles
Skin Biology 877.PCA.SKIN.
Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope
& Chemical Peel
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877.PCA.SKIN. (students) May 16-17 • Arlington, TX
Danni Boucher: 1.800.471.0229
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Peel (students) Atlanta, GA. The International Congress of
by PCA Skin. 877.PCA.SKIN. Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2010
West Palm Beach, FL. September 25-27 • Long Beach, CA
Danni Boucher: 1.800.471.0229
877.PCA.SKIN. MAY 24
Medic Facial for The International Congress of
MAY 17 Ultra Sensitive Skin Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2010
Body Treatment Anti-Cellulite by Biodroga. October 24-25 • Philadelphia, PA
by Biodroga. New York, NY. New York, NY. Danni Boucher: 1.800.471.0229

800.932.0168. 800.932.0168.

May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 129
advertisers’ index
Page Reader
Number Service No.

54............... 5 Star Formulators................................................... www.5starformulators.com............................................. 180


5................. A Natural Difference................................................. www.anaturaldifference.com.......................................... 232
6................. Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts............................ www.ARCSkinCare.com................................................. 120
108............. Athena Beauty........................................................ www.athenabeauty.com................................................. 162
80............... Beautiful Image....................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com........................................... 183
96............... Beauty Beauty......................................................... www.beautybeautyusa.com........................................... 273
8,17............ Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com.............................................. 139
11............... Biodroga................................................................. www.biodrogausa.com................................................... .102
122............. Brushes by Karen.................................................... www.brushesbykaren.com.............................................. .104
37............... Clarisonic................................................................ www.clarisonic.com........................................................ 352
21............... Cosmétiques France Laure..................................... www.francelaure.com..................................................... .199
125............. Dermafile Professional............................................ www.dermafile.com....................................................... .296
100............. DermAware...................................................................www.dermaware.com..................................................... 256
91............... DermaQuest........................................................... www.dermaquestinc.com............................................... .261
66............... DPC International.................................................... www.DPC2000.com....................................................... 146
30............... Dr. Grandel...................................................................www.grandel-usa.com.................................................... 109
52............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com............................................................. .248
29............... Dr. Med Christine Schrammek................................ www.schrammek.de/greenpeelusa.html........................ .166
104............. Echo2 Plus............................................................... www.echo2plus.com...................................................... .213
2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. www.eminenceorganics.com............................................ 157
72................Énspri...................................................................... www.enspriskincare.com.................................................. 318
131............. Equipro................................................................... www.equipro-bty.com...................................................... 242
109............. Eve Taylor................................................................ www.evetaylor.com.......................................................... 228
132............. G.M. Collin.............................................................. www.gmcollin.com.......................................................... 115
74............... Hollywood Face Inc................................................. www.hollywoodface.com................................................. 321
43............... Image Skincare......................................................... www.imageskincare.com................................................ 178
39............... Jan Marini......................................................................www.janmarini.com........................................................ 215
14-15......... Klapp.............................................................................www.klapp-cosmetics.com............................................. .147
13............... Lady Burd......................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119
124............. LNE online....................................................................www.lneonline.com.............................................................
102............. Mark Lees......................................................................www.marklees.com........................................................ 168
45............... Martinni Beauty....................................................... www.martinnibeauty.com............................................... .238
7................. Murad............................................................................www.murad.com............................................................ .184
51............... Nature Pure Laboratories............................................www.naturepure.com..................................................... .316
81,97.......... Osmosis........................................................................www.osmosisskincare.com............................................. .111
32-33......... PCA Skin.......................................................................www.pcaskin.com........................................................... 110
86............... PFB Vanish....................................................................www.pfbvanish.com....................................................... 229
120............. Premiere DaySpa Conference................................. www.premieredayspa.biz....................................................
118............. Proeyepads.com..................................................... www.proeyepads.com.................................................... .138
119............. Rapidlash......................................................................www.tryrapidlash.com.................................................... 224
76............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................www.rejuvilab.com......................................................... 149
56............... Repêchage.....................................................................www.repechage.com...................................................... 196
125............. Select Spa Source..........................................................www.selectspa.com........................................................ 253
19............... Sesderma Laboratories..................................................www.sesderma.com....................................................... 247
118............. Shavasana.....................................................................www.eyelash-extensions.com......................................... 325
9................. Shira...............................................................................www.shiraesthetics.com................................................. 249
71............... Silhouet Tone................................................................www.silhouettone.com................................................... 192
104,114...... Spa de Soleil................................................................www.sdsspa.com, www.homespacollection.com........... 188
78............... Spa Uniforms................................................................www.spauniforms.com................................................... 353
73............... Szep Elet/ilike...............................................................www.szepelet.com......................................................... 274
124............. Teka Fine Line Brushes............................................ www.tekabrush.com....................................................... .195
49............... Terraderma/Pibbs........................................................www.pibbs.com.............................................................. 129
57,95,101.... Touché Beauty........................................................ www.touchebeauty.com................................................. 243
55............... Yum Gourmet Skincare................................................www.yumskincare.com................................................... 206
22............... Wilma Schumann European Skin Care......................www.wilmaschumann.com............................................. 106

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