Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
50
Industry Leaders
in Keeping the
Planet Green.
Éminence offers products with the highest organic standards
worldwide including USDA Certified Organic, ingredients
certified by Demeter International – the only global certifier
of Biodynamic® products, and Biokontroll Hungaria.
Éminence cares about the planet from harvest to production, packaging to delivery. We are committed to being
the “Greenest Company in Town” with the following initiatives: Wind and Solar Powered Manufacturing,
Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing, Recycled
Paper in Outer Packaging, Biodegradable Corn-Based Packing Materials, Green Warehouse Practices, Hybrid
and Biodiesel Car Deliveries, Green Transportation Support for our Staff, Green Community Supporter, Tree
Re-planting Initiatives, Green Spa Program, ISO 90001/2001 Certified Manufacturing.
NENC
MI
É
GREENSPA
OR
G
AR
AN C
IC SKI N
Boldijarre Koronczay
President and Master Trainer
Tea Infused Skin Immunity
Boosting Collection
We’ve taken the finest Eastern philosophies Combined with exotic guava and lychee and
and ingredients and infused them with our invigorating chestnut and bamboo, your skin
traditional Hungarian elements and will be strong and youthful from head to toe
craftsmanship to bring you the most potent with the new Immuni-Tea Collection from
skin strengthening products yet featuring Éminence. Proudly free of parabens, sodium
antioxidant rich green, white and rooibos teas! lauryl sulfates and other harsh chemicals.
THE ORIGINAL
SINCE 1958
Toll-Free 1-888-747-6342 | info@eminenceorganics.com
www.eminenceorganics.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card
CONTENTS M AY 2 0 1 0 VOLUME 25
& spa
NUMBER 5
skin
Summer Tune-Up 31 Beware of
The Cosmeceutical Choice 34 Summer Invaders
The Search for the guarding spa safety
Ideal Sun Protection 40 page 82
Skin Care Camp 46
Skin News 53 spa
Tiny Terrors 67
The Search for the Self-Esteem Saboteur 68
Ideal Sun Protection Botanical Wrap-Up: Treatments
understanding sunscreens that Heal and Hydrate 75
page 40 25 Expert Tips: Suggestions for the Treatment
Room and Solutions for the Spa Owner 77
Beware of Summer Invaders 82
Spa News 85
business
Marketing Boot Camp
Spa Owner’s Corner: Going Solo,
87
green spa
Gradual Greening 105
The Joy of Self-Employment 88
Going Green From
Biz Smart: Merit Based Skin Care 92
the Ground Up 106
Cracking the Retail Code 98
Word Wise 110
Biz News 103
Green Spa News 113
extras
From the Editor 6
Brows That Wow Spa of the Month: Spa Esoteric, McKinney, TX 10
creating the perfect arch
Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa,
page 115
Dallas, TX 23
Summer Bare All 58
image Calendar of Events 126
Brows That Wow 115 Advertisers’ Index 130
Eye Enhancement 116
Ooh La-La Glow: Healthy Hue 121 Cover
courtesy of INTERMÈDE
Image News 123
Salon de Coiffure
COnCEPtS
™
is no better way to develop your skills in our industry
than attending a trade show. Speaking of which, The
International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami
Do you know what cosmeceutical skin care ingredients was the place to be in April! I had the privilege of
are needed to deliver results without causing undue
meeting many estheticians, spa owners and vendors
who expressed interest in more communication
irritation? We do. Each product from AdvAnced
between the magazine and themselves. I would
RejuvenAting concepts is formulated to provide
like to personally invite you to get in touch with me
your clientele with the Right ingRedient foRmulA-
so we can collaborate. I am an esthetician myself,
tions to deliveR beAutiful Results at home and in
and I love hearing ideas, thoughts and remarks from
the treatment room.
other professionals in my field. Whether you are a
solo esthetician, director of a skin care company
ask about our introductory Offer! or the owner of a day spa, it is always great to get
to know my colleagues in the industry. I am now
Call 1 800 689-0499 or visit looking forward to getting to know even more
aRCSkinCare.com outstanding professionals in our industry in Dallas
at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa
on May 16th and 17th. See you there! n
Tina Zillmann
Aesthetician, Vice President, Educational
Director, AIA President and Skin Clinic Owner Esthetically yours,
—Denise R. Fuller
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #120 on reader service card
Page 6 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
NEW! HiTech 2-in-1 Problem Solvers
Analyze
305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664
www.lneonline.com
e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com
This
subscriptions@lneonline.com
ADVISORY BOARD
Mark Lees, Ph.D. • Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow
Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola
Contributors
Marion Bodner Janet McCormick Chantal Savinon-Soto
Carl A. Boger Jr. Monika Norman Jean Shea
Krista Bourne Matthew Pace David Suzuki
Tracy L. Drumm Aliesh Pierce Sherry Taylor
Gena Flores Linda Rae Nadine Toriello
LCD Display
moisture analysis tool with Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices.
Postmaster: Send address changes to:
7 memory measurement Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition,
function and 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134
United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00
by Monika Norman
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #102 on reader service card
For more information, please visit us at www.biodrogausa.com or please contact our regional distributors:
Biodroga WEST Biodroga SOUTHWEST Biodroga SOUTHEAST Biodroga NORTHEAST & MIDWEST
call: 1-800-445-6364 call: 1-800-729-1242 call: 1-800-826-1193 call: 1-800-258-3812
local: 702-734-1651 local: 281-277-9494 local: 803-531-1788 www.biodrogausa.com
oneskin@aol.com jocroth@aol.com info@estheticsupply.com info@biodrogausa.com
spa of the month|spa esoteric
in their spa home. Each employee feels valued and put together to create a seamless opera-
and passes that respect onto the guests. Our tion in which everyone is on the same page,
goal is to make the client feel like the world out- ensuring that the client knows we are there for
side stops once they step into the spa. Putting them and will handle them well. Services last
together a plan of action, with everything from for a full hour, not 30 minutes or 55 minutes.
what the team wears, colors and style, phone
voice of the receptionist, client intake consul- At Spa Esoteric, we believe in
tation—even the way water, tea and goodies
customizing all of our services. It
are delivered to the clients—were thought out
is the little things that matter, and
ultimately they are what make a
big difference in client loyalty.
Words of wisdom
In conclusion, I would like to offer my Brown
Betty tea pot of wisdom: Take your time to de-
cide what audience you want to play to, and then
put together the “toy box” for that audience.
You do not have to be all things to all people.
Do not make excuses for what you charge, the
services you offer or how they are done. Hire
personalities that blend well together; they will
ment table is lined with 400 count become your family. Thoroughly train all staff to
sheets, fleece warmers with heaters maintain consistency in their service, because
and soft blankets, and all are per- your clients will come to rely on it. Compensate
sonally checked on a weekly basis your staff and reward your clients. Make sure
to make sure they are comfortable everyone feels valued, respected and cared
and warm. Fresh flowers are deliv- for. If you build it, they will come. Take your
ered every week, supplied by a lo- time, every time.
cal floral designer. Baked goodies I have recreated the ambiance and feeling
are available for guests, purchased that I experienced from a house of my youth.
from another local merchant. There A place of welcoming and waving goodbye. I
is a lovely horse and buggy vendor have become the keeper of secrets, and I try
who offers carriage rides around the to work with grace every day. This is a gift—not
square, which the spa’s guests enjoy. Immersing without its challenges—but a gift no less. If you
the spa family into the community brings the are in the area, drop in and say hello, have a
town together. cup of tea and relax. Come enjoy the comfort-
Spa Esoteric’s highest producing services ing experience that awaits at Spa Esoteric. n
are the Intraceutical Oxygen Treatments. These
were a large investment for the spa, and we
earned the right to have an exclusive territory Photography: Jana C. Perez
for these hyperbaric treatments, which have be-
come our biggest seller. The oxygen machine Monika Norman is the
is multifunctional. Oxygen facials are available, founder and owner of
as well as oxygen inhalation treatments and Spa Esoteric. She spe-
spray tanning. Clients who are seeking more cializes in massage ther-
energy, health and vitality love the service. apy, body treatments,
Guests seeking faster recovery from jet lag esthetics, and salon and
are also attracted to the oxygen treatments. day spa management.
The multipurpose machine is used during the She has trained students
facial services, in addition to tanning services and owners in all areas
and oxygen treatments. Employees are encour- of salon or day spa operations. For more infor-
aged to take time out to receive one of these mation visit www.spaesoteric.com.
Words of wisdom
In conclusion, I would like to offer my Brown
Betty tea pot of wisdom: Take your time to de-
cide what audience you want to play to, and then
put together the “toy box” for that audience.
You do not have to be all things to all people.
Do not make excuses for what you charge, the
ment table is lined with 400 count services you offer or how they are done. Hire
sheets, fleece warmers with heaters personalities that blend well together; they will
and soft blankets, and all are per- become your family. Thoroughly train all staff to
sonally checked on a weekly basis maintain consistency in their service, because
to make sure they are comfortable your clients will come to rely on it. Compensate
and warm. Fresh flowers are deliv- your staff and reward your clients. Make sure
ered every week, supplied by a lo- everyone feels valued, respected and cared
cal floral designer. Baked goodies for. If you build it, they will come. Take your
are available for guests, purchased time, every time.
from another local merchant. There I have recreated the ambiance and feeling
is a lovely horse and buggy vendor that I experienced from a house of my youth.
who offers carriage rides around the A place of welcoming and waving goodbye. I
square, which the spa’s guests enjoy. Immersing have become the keeper of secrets, and I try
the spa family into the community brings the to work with grace every day. This is a gift—not
town together. without its challenges—but a gift no less. If you
Spa Esoteric’s highest producing services are in the area, drop in and say hello, have a
are the Intraceutical Oxygen Treatments. These cup of tea and relax. Come enjoy the comfort-
were a large investment for the spa, and we ing experience that awaits at Spa Esoteric. n
earned the right to have an exclusive territory
for these hyperbaric treatments, which have be-
come our biggest seller. The oxygen machine Monika Norman is the
is multifunctional. Oxygen facials are available, founder and owner of
as well as oxygen inhalation treatments and Spa Esoteric. She spe-
spray tanning. Clients who are seeking more cializes in massage ther-
energy, health and vitality love the service. apy, body treatments,
Guests seeking faster recovery from jet lag esthetics, and salon and
are also attracted to the oxygen treatments. day spa management.
The multipurpose machine is used during the She has trained students
facial services, in addition to tanning services and owners in all areas
and oxygen treatments. Employees are encour- of salon or day spa operations. For more infor-
aged to take time out to receive one of these mation visit www.spaesoteric.com.
Take full advantage of the summer season without worries of the sun thanks to this corrective
compact that will assure an impeccable coverage as well as an even and luminous complexion.
The RévoluSolaire30 is offered in 3 shades which are all soft textured and easy to apply.
Would yo
youu lilike
ke tto receive fu
uth
ther
er iinf
nformation on ou
ourr
products?
d Conta tact
ct o
our
ur C
Customer Se erv
rvic
ice
e at
at:
n Unquestionable Results
$75
2 - DAY ADMISSION
• Exhibition Floor
5 WAYS TO REGISTER:
PHONE:
1.800.471.0229
1.305.443.2322
Presented by ONLINE:
www.LNEONLINE.com
E-MAIL:
DALLAS
Registration@LNEONLINE.com
FAX:
1.305.443.1664
RESERVE YOUR HOTEL All rates are PER NIGHT – Plus 15% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability.
CANCELLATION PENALTIES:
Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com
$50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 4/30/10.
E-mail: registration@LNEONLINE.com Full one night deposit if cancelled after 5/7/10.
Tel: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664 Cancellation penalties are STRICLY ENFORCED.
TAXI SERVICE
FROM DALLAS/FT. WORTH AIRPORT:
Taxi service is available on the upper level of each terminal. The fare to Arlington is approximately $37.00.
HILTON ARLINGTON: $5 per person each way available from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Upon arrival at DFW Airport call 1.817.640.3322.
BAYMONT INN & SUITES: Complimentary shuttle available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Upon arrival at DFW Airport call 1.817.633.2434.
Shuttle transportation from the airport to your hotel is available via SUPERSHUTTLE
Reserve your transportation online at supershuttle.com and save! Use group code A2DTJ when reserving online.
For fares, reservations and more information, please call 1.800.258.3826.
9:45 a.m. Pregnant, Pickles and Skin Care; Treating The Mom-To-Be by Austine Mah (Demo)
10:30 a.m. Simple Steps to a Booming Business by Richard Linder, MBA (Lecture)
11:00 a.m. Waxing: 15 minute Body Parts! by Lori Nestore (Demo)
11:45 a.m. Hot Flashes and Hormones! How to Treat Menopausal Skin by Trish Green (Lecture)
12:15 p.m. “Green” Your Facial Treatments One Step at a Time by Nina Curtis (Demo)
.
fro m Dr
Sc
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic THE L
hra m m
A
product knowledge I Long Beach, CA
O RIGIN
ty
i ek
· Q u al
2010 May 16th I 10 am - 4 pm
GREEN PEEL® certification class and basic
1. PLACE
product knowledge I Chicago, IL FOR GREEN PEEL®
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #166 www.schrammek.de/greenpeelusa.html
ELEMENTS
OF
N AT U R E As early as 1935, chemist Dr Felix Grandel
a state-of-the-art skin care series conducted research into wheat germ and
vitamin E, thus preparing the ground for
highly effective natural skin care products
that uniquely combines nature that are well tolerated by the skin.
Free of ...
and tradition with pure indulgence • preservatives
• parabens
and visible results. • mineral oils
• paraffins
• petroleum components
• silicones
• synthetic fragrances
• colorants
• PEG emulsifiers
Fast – reliable – convenient. For more information contact: Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #109 on reader service card
USA – WEST USA – SOUTHWEST USA – MIDWEST USA – SOUTHEAST USA – NORTHEAST CANADA
call: 1-866-693-7006 call: 1-888-266-0820 call: 260-444-2275 call: 1-888-845-1191 call: 1-877-DRG-4SPA (374-4772) call: 1-800-561-3766
grandelusawest@gmail.com Grandelsw@aol.com grandelusa.midwest@gmail.com grandelusa_southeast@ infovivari@gmail.com buymagna@aol.com
www.grandelusa-west.com www.grandelusa-southwest.com www.grandelusa-midwest.com estheticsupply.com www.vivari.us www.magnaesthetics.com
www.grandelusa-southeast.com
skin|summer tune-up
by Carol and Rob Trow
T
HE WINTER THAT RECENTLY hands and feet, consider recommend-
ended was dominated by an on- ing that your clients sleep with gloves
Recommend a
slaught of rain, sleet, snow and and socks, which improve penetration regular home routine
record low temperatures. Most people and prolong the effect of the topical of exfoliation.
were primarily concerned with covering products. You can even suggest that
up and staying protected. Now, with clients follow this routine if they are
summer upon us, our clients’ faces and going to the gym or for a long walk,
bodies can definitely use a tune up! adding moisturizer to hands and feet
Winter, with its low humidity, hot air before putting on shoes and socks.
heating and lack of fresh air can wreak Hair removal gets renewed atten-
havoc on skin. People need to pay atten- tion as the weather warms. Gently ex-
tion not only to the face but also arms, foliate with a mild AHA or even a brown
legs and feet, which are surely in need sugar scrub to facilitate what could be oil or moisturizer with vitamin A (retinol
of first aid after the brutally cold season. a painful reawakening to the joys of hair palmitate or acetate, not retinoic acid).
There are simple ways you can ap- removal. It ideally should be done 48 The dry skin that resembles a river bed
proach getting your clients’ skin back in hours before the procedure. As the skin will vanish in no time.
shape. It is wise to package these treat- has not been acclimated to the pro- Last—but certainly not least—recom-
ment protocols in a series that provides cedure, follow the actual hair removal mend self tanners. Recent developments
extraordinary results for your clients, with an application of a calming gel or have dramatically improved this family of
enhances their loyalty and contributes antioxidant based anti-inflammatory to products, making orange skin a thing of
to strengthening your practice. avoid unsightly bumps. the past. Exfoliation prior to application
A good place to start is a mild, self Looking for the proverbial cure to makes the results of a self tanner even
limiting peel. While we prefer lactic or cellulite is the holy grail of body care better. If your clients are determined to
mild TCA gels, there are many options. A products and procedures. Be careful go out in the sun, make sure the sun-
point to remember with peels is that less not to promise more than you can de- screen they use contains physical and
is more. Many professionals prefer adding liver. There are several excellent topi- chemical blockers coupled with a brigade
or replacing mild peels with microdermal cal products, as well as some machine of antioxidants. Try to deter them from
treatments. When used properly, peels based treatments that can help reduce reaching for products with very high SPF
are an excellent tool for skin rejuvenation. the appearance of cellulite for short pe- ratings, as they may only offer two to five
Following the peel, recommend riods of time. percent more protection than those with
a regular home routine of exfoliation, Recent years have brought on a wave a rating of 20, yet expose your client to
which is necessary to remove the winter of new body wraps that also can play a more chemicals and lead them to believe
buildup of dead, dry skin cells. Explain role in getting ready for summer. Again, they do not need to reapply the product
to your guest how to apply light pres- do not promise too much. While the short every 90 minutes. n
sure while exfoliating, and let them know term results can be amazing, they are not
photo: Image Source/Getty Images
they should be cautious about using a a permanent solution. Carol and Rob Trow are the owners of
scrub that has the potential to create One great way to treat arms, legs, DermaConcepts USA, the eastern U.S.
microscopic tears in the skin. and feet and even dramatically reduce distributor of Environ Skin Care. They
Follow exfoliation with a regimen keratosis pilaris is through a routine uti- author articles for skin care industry pub-
of moisturizing treatments based on lizing mild lactic acid as an exfoliant and lications and are guest speakers at na-
skin type. For enhanced results with penetrant enhancer followed by a light tional and international field conferences.
increase credibility.
get certified.
Clinicians and physicians nationwide value the benefits of
being PCA SKIN® Certified Professionals. Visit us at booth
#201/203/205 at the International Congress of Esthetics
& Spa in Dallas, Texas, on May 16-17, 2010, to learn more
about becoming a PCA SKIN Certified Professional.
Increase your knowledge and build your practice with
PCA SKIN.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110 on reader service card
photo: Image Source/Getty Images
THE
COSMECEUTICAL
be an advisor who recommends products that that is sold in a drugstore, department store
are not only effective, but also safe. or multi-level marketing company? Below are
Skin care products are separated into two some important points of difference to consider:
specific categories by the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration (FDA): Cosmetics and pharma- • In order to have a therapeutic benefit to
ceuticals. Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate the health of the skin, ingredients must be
through the layers of the epidermis and have formulated to penetrate through the outer
a biological effect on the structure and function layers of the skin barrier to the deeper lay-
of the living layers of the skin. Cosmetics, on continues
ers of the epidermis; many over-the-counter multivitamin works in our bodies with a mixture
cosmetics are not formulated this way due of vitamins and minerals developed in the right
to the risk of product reactions. proportions for best absorption.
• Over-the-counter products are manufac-
tured and distributed in very large batches, Being an esthetician and not having a chem-
are packed with almost as many preserva- istry degree, I know how confusing it can be
tives as “active” ingredients and often sit to try to figure out product lines. When I was
on warehouse shelves for months before new to skin care, everything sounded amaz-
being shipped to retailers. ing, and product samples were so much fun to
play with. Ultimately, it was daunting trying to
choose from everything out there. Before trying
any particular product, find out the answers to
these questions:
claims, thus the special active ingredient touted undergoes the process for FDA approval, the
in the formula only has to appear somewhere gold standard of testing is double-blinded,
on the ingredient labeling. In addition, it is not prospective, randomized, controlled clinical tri-
a one-element wonder that works best for the als against a placebo or approved prescription
skin—it takes a mixture of the right amounts product performed by a third party research
of active ingredients that work together syn- organization. Double blind studies are those in
ergistically for the best results, just like an oral continues
NEW
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buildup of dirt, oil, and makeup. Then reveal your skin’s natural youth with our new Opal Sonic Infusion
System. It immediately reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with results that last for hours and
build over time. Let Clarisonic uncover your skin’s true potential for healthy, radiant, younger-looking skin.
Try the sonic experience for yourself. Visit us at clarisonic.com/professionals or call us at 877-825-9633.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #352 on reader service card
skin|the cosmeceutical choice
which neither the participant nor the researcher following questions about the line helps you to
knows which treatment is received. For pro- determine if it meets your needs:
spective trials, data is gathered during the trial 1. What are minimum opening order
itself. Randomized means that the participants or re-order amounts?
are randomly assigned a test or control prod- 2. Are there sample or trial sizes for your
clients to try before purchasing?
3. What kind of marketing support is offered
to help you promote and grow your retail
business?
4. What type of education and training
classes are offered?
understanding sunscreens
W
ITHOUT QUESTION, SUNSCREEN booths utilize UVC rays, specific topical protec-
is the most important aspect of any tion for UVC is not believed to be necessary.
skin care regimen. It is imperative to UVB rays span from 280-320nm, and are
maintaining treatment results and the preven- thought to be responsible for the majority of
tion of skin cancer. Unfortunately, misleading the sun’s negative effects on the skin. Although
and often incorrect consumer-directed infor- the inflammation and erythema produced by a
mation has led many patients to believe that sunburn is the most obvious change, it is what is
these crucial products are actually harmful. It is happening within the skin that is the most worri-
imperative that all skin care professionals feel some. UVB radiation is responsible for a cascade
comfortable speaking about the importance of events inside the epidermal cells, including
of SPF and are prepared to dispel some of the increasing levels of damaging free radicals and
myths regarding these invaluable products. reactive oxygen species (ROS). In addition, UVB
Also, by developing a deeper understanding causes a reduction of the skin’s endogenous, or
of how sun protection products work to safe- natural, antioxidant levels, making it even more
guard the skin, the clinician is able to identify vulnerable to DNA damage and mutation. The
the most effective sunscreens on the market. UV-induced DNA mutation is the number one
cause of skin cancers. UVB rays can be remem-
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation bered as the rays responsible for burning.
To understand sunscreens, one must first under- UVA radiation ranges from 320 to 400 nm,
stand the ultraviolet light they are designed to and makes up the majority of the rays that reach
screen out. UV light is electromagnetic energy the Earth’s surface. UVA rays are believed to be
ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers (nm). It the primary cause of premature visible aging.
is critical to realize that one does not have to The deeper, dermal penetration of UVA leads to
be outdoors to be exposed. Human beings the breakdown of structural components such
are constantly in contact with UV radiation, as as collagen and elastin. UVA radiation is able
it is emitted from multiple sources including to penetrate glass and most clothing, and its
the sun, tanning beds, black lights, germicidal strength remains constant throughout the day,
lamps, halogen lights and fluorescent and in- which makes daily sunscreen use imperative,
candescent lights. The almost unavoidable ex- even if one remains indoors. Like UVB rays, UVA
posure to UV radiation makes daily sunscreen rays increase cellular oxidation and decrease the
application essential for healthy skin. UV rays body’s natural defense mechanisms. Although
have been officially categorized as a known UVA is thought to play a less significant role in
carcinogen, and as we learn more regarding carcinogenesis compared to UVB, it is still re-
BY JENNIFER LINDER, M.D.
the risks of overexposure, groups such as the sponsible for approximately 20 percent of the
Indoor Tanning Association (ITA) are finally being sun’s cancer-causing effects.
held accountable for their actions. In January
2010, the Federal Trade Commission charged UV protection
the ITA with making false claims regarding the There are thousands of sun-shielding products
health benefits of tanning. currently available in the U.S., and their level of
UV rays are divided into three types: UVA, usefulness varies widely when it comes to their
UVB and UVC. UVC radiation ranges from 200- UVA and UVB screening abilities. The clinician
280nm. Fortunately, UVC is almost completely should be able to identify which products offer
absorbed by the atmospheric ozone and expo- the best protective benefits in order to preserve
sure is minimal. Although light sources such as the health and appearance of their patients’ skin.
germicidal lamps and certain types of tanning continues
Sunscreen agents are classified as physical or chemical. understand what SPF is and often believe that a product’s
A physical sunscreen is an inorganic product that sits on effectiveness is solely determined by the SPF number. It is
the surface and reflects or scatters UV radiation before it important to educate patients and explain that the level of
induces cellular damage. In the past, although physical sun protection is not proportionate with the SPF rating. In fact,
protection was effective, it was often associated with thicker an SPF of 15 provides protection from 93 percent of UVB
product consistency and a white appearance on the skin. rays, SPF 30 protects from 97 percent of UVB rays and an
Proper formulation and smaller particle sizes can alleviate SPF of 60 protects from 98 percent of UVB radiation. Many
these concerns, leading to a lighter and more appealing dermatologists believe that an SPF higher than 30 is of little
product feel. In contrast, a chemical sunscreen is an organic value. In most circumstances, products with an extremely
substance that penetrates the corneocytes and absorbs UV high SPF are thicker and heavier, and because they provide
rays before they affect the skin. Many people avoid chemical minimal added protection, they are often unnecessary. In
sunscreens out of concern for sensitivities. In actuality, reac- addition, people often incorrectly believe that re-application
tions typically occur in response to a product’s base rather is not warranted when using a high SPF product. In reality,
than its active ingredients. Therefore, even patients with nearly all sunscreen products break down and must be re-
sensitive skin should be able to find an effective sunscreen. applied every two hours. Personally, I would prefer my pa-
Numerous ingredients are FDA-approved to either re- tients wear an SPF 15 product daily rather than an SPF 70
flect or absorb UV radiation. Each of these ingredients is only when they are outside.
able to counteract specific wavelengths, and a blend is typi- The term “broad-spectrum” indicates a product’s ability to
cally needed for ideal protection. The following are some protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. At this time, the
of the most commonly used active sunscreen agents in the U.S. has not implemented a rating system for UVA protection.
United States. The only way to ensure that a sunscreen absorbs UVA rays is
to read the ingredient label on the back of the bottle. At least
Sun protection terms defined one of the following must be on an ingredient list in order to
Many of the words that are used to describe sunscreen prod- achieve true broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB protection: avoben-
ucts can be confusing to both the patient and the clinician. zone, ecamsule titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Understanding these commonly used terms can greatly as- Water and sweat-proof claims are false and irrespon-
sist skin professionals in choosing and recommending pro- sible, as there are no such products, and these terms are
tective products. misleading to the patient. Products can however be water
The term “SPF” is the abbreviation for a product’s Sun or sweat-resistant, meaning that they are able to maintain
Protection Factor. It only indicates a product’s ability to screen their protective effects in water for a certain amount of time.
the sun’s burning rays, or UVBs. Consumers typically do not continues
sunblock 101
ingredient wavelengths filtered type of UV protection
Octyldimethyl PABA
290-315 nm UVB
(Padimate O)
chart courtesy of Jennifer Linder, M.D.
S
UMMER IS A MAGICAL TIME, mother of three, understands the anxiety her
where old things are stripped away children face when beginning a new adven-
and new journeys begin. In a fleet- ture. No matter how much her children look
ing three months, gangly children forward to summer camp or even a night away
are transformed into young adults, from Mom and Dad, they are nervous when
and the marketing opportunity of a lifetime for the time comes. Emery combats the problem
estheticians opens up. While many spa profes- by sending a family picture with her children to
sionals are leery about the unstable revenue dur- comfort them at night, as well as cotton balls
ing these balmy months, smart estheticians can scented with mom and dad’s favorite perfume
establish year-round income stability. or cologne to make them feel safe and loved.
An estimated 10,000,000 American chil- A savvy business owner can transform this idea
dren head to sleepaway or day summer camps into aromatherapy necklaces that hold a hid-
that focus on everything from sports, cheerlead- den scent pad containing comforting essential
ing, nature, archeology, science, dance or even oils of lavender or chamomile. The sentimental
the circus, leading to a virtual gold mine that piece of jewelry can be worn year round and
spa professionals can tap into. Not only does passed down from generation to generation,
that younger group of customers in particular creating an emotional tie between their sum-
need direction in skin care regimens to estab- mer experience and your business. It is also a
lish healthy habits, parents are also interested great gift idea for overworked camp counselors.
in unique ideas to help their kids’ summer ex- Bundle the aromatherapy necklace with a variety
perience stand out. of essential oils designed for camp remedies
Parents want to share their favorite expe- such as stress reduction (neroli), headache relief
riences with their children, not only to initiate (peppermint), refreshment (grapefruit), soothing
an emotional bond but also because many of (jasmine) and illness (eucalyptus).
them truly do want their family to have the best Streamlining products is becoming more
life possible. Portia Potter, mother of six and popular as belts tighten and creativity reigns.
grandmother of ten, fondly remembers attend- Spa professionals are leading the trend by shak-
ing camp throughout her childhood and later ing things up and finding multiple uses of tradi-
doing whatever it took to give her children and tional products for increased cost effectiveness.
grandchildren the same opportunity. Potter be- Licensed nail technician Amy Pooker states, “In
lieves that exposing her children to positive role today’s rough economy, people are wanting
models and other campers that shared the same more versatile items in their beauty regimen.”
interests in a safe environment benefitted the Pooker goes on to discuss pure minerals in
child as an individual and the family as a whole. particular, stating that “the right color can be
It is this philosophy, passed down from one gen- used as eyeshadow, lip color, blush and even
eration to the next, that allows spas to expertly added to your nail top coat to use as a custom
link summer camps to a boost in summer sales. nail lacquer.” Additionally, cosmetic brushes
If you have ever been to a sleepaway camp, are a great tool for adding the same minerals
you may remember “mail call,” that uncertain in the hair with temporary fantasy colors as a
time when kids pretended not to care if they fashion statement or adding a sun kissed glow.
got a package or letter from home—and the Mail call kits for summer camp can include
sigh of relief that came when their name was sunscreen, foundation, a variety of mineral colors,
called. Then going back to the cabin with your cosmetic brushes, clear nail polish, disposable lip
friends and ripping open the package to see brushes, nail polish remover and voila! You have
what was inside, sharing the loot and making the essentials for skin, nail and hair cosmetics
photo: © Godfer/Dreamstime.com
memories of a lifetime. Spa professionals can that children will love to share with their friends.
fill the desires of parents to share a special gift, Facial products are safe for the majority of
with the need to manage money effectively. the body, whereas products designed for the
Spa owners can tap into this market simply body are less likely to be ideal for facial use due
by thinking like a parent and then altering the to the difference in the skin’s depth. Estheticians
idea to fit the desired spa image. Crystal Emery, continues
www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 47
skin|skin care camp
Fashion Week (week 6): Campers have fun with and facial quality colors and aromas and let the campers
style as they make their own accessories and jewelry, fashion their own skin care regimen. Collaborate with the
sharing ideas on how to coordinate outfits and estab- camp to compile a list of parents that would like pictures
lish their own personal style. The week concludes with of the class, and create a database of the information to
a fashion show. use for future marketing. Do this early, while campers have
the most enthusiasm about what they have learned. Send
continues
Dyan Bulyar, owner of the Limelight Spa in Jupiter, FL, also for Estheticians. Gena volunteers as
hosts a yearly summer glamour camp for girls ages five to four- the midwest director of the National
teen. The spa receives local media attention for their specialized Aesthetic Spa Network and can be
festivities and has a different theme each week. Camp hours reached at Gena@SkinBlends.com,
are from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and there is often a waiting list. www.skinblends.com or www.nasnbiz.com.
KEY INTERACTION
Touché Beauty is developing a 7-piece serum-based product
line. The three debut serums are the Caviar Serum for anti-aging,
the Oxygen Serum for revitalizing and the Marine Collagen Serum
for moisturizing. The key to the effectiveness of the formulas is an
advanced technology method called carrier systems that assure that
an action and a reaction take place. www.touchebeauty.com
BOTANICAL BLEND
The Fruitzyme line from
Advanced Rejuvenating
Concepts is made up of MAKING THE GRADE
natural skin care products Stock your shelves with DermaAware’s A+ Smart
formulated to provide the skin Serum™, a revolutionary product that is intelligent
with deep cleansing, gentle enough to know exactly what the skin needs and where
exfoliation and rich moisture. to deliver it in the correct dose and form. The A+ Smart
Fruitzyme products alleviate the Serum provides skin with a multi-dose package of
common symptoms of excess retinol, co-enzyme Q-10, vitamin C and Vital Stem Cell™
oil, inflammation and redness technology. It is a daytime serum designed for age,
that may be associated with pigment, acne and oil control. www.dermaware.com
acne or rosacea, as well as aid
in moisture retention and cell
turnover for dry and dehydrated
skin, says the company.
www.ARCSkinCare.com CLOCK STOPPER Facelift in a Bottle by Instantly
Ageless™ is a revolutionary serum that is clinically proven to
dramatically reverse the signs of aging within a few minutes, says
the company. It can be used every day to diminish fine lines and
wrinkles, minimize crows feet and frown lines between brows,
erase dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, smoothen lines
around the lips and shrink pore size to improve skin’s texture.
An additional benefit is the acetyl hexapeptide-3, a non-toxic
advanced anti-aging peptide known to help prevent lines
caused by facial movements. www.instantlyageless.com
MORE NEWS
SIGHT OF YOUTH
The Rejuvenating & Volumizing The TerraDerma Firming Eye Gel
is the perfect product to take care
Facial from Natural Silk Cocoons of the skin around the eyes. Rich
that has Clients Hooked! with marine collagen and elastin, the
Firming Eye Gel helps to maintain
and support the connective tissue
between the cells for a firmer and
smoother appearance. The soy
extract works to preserve hydration and smooth out
wrinkles, leaving the skin moist and revived with
a cool and refreshing effect. www.pibbs.com
CAFFEINE FIX
The 3090 Coffee Espresso
Mask by Allegra MF utilizes
the power of green coffee to
provide a softening, toning and
antioxidant treatment for the
skin. The caffeine helps redesign
and refine the facial contours,
BOOTH 104-106
according to the company. The
properties of the mask provide
a complete treatment to all skin
types. allegramf2@aol.com
Visit us at ICES in DALLAS
May 16-17 for a Live Demonstration
Ask about our show special!
LASTING
WRINKLE REPAIR
Offer your clients a
wrinkle treatment that
goes a step further
than Botox® with the
Filladerma DUO, a
double action system
designed to produce visible results in one hour. The
Filladerma DUO goes beyond the temporary effects
of Botox as it fills deeper wrinkles from the inside and
prevents the formation of new ones. It regenerates and
reconstructs internal support fabric by stimulating the
production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,
says the company. Mother of pearl soft focus pigments
Se Habla Español Tel/fax: (954)450-96-88 Gabriela N. Nunez create additional immediate improvements in the skin’s
appearance by blurring imperfections such as wrinkles,
FORMULATORS
scars and signs of fatigue. www.fillderma.com
Distributed by 5 Star Formulators
Toll Free: 888.200.3977
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card
Page 54 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #206 on reader service card
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #196
skin|news
TENSION TAMER
Help your clients calm their nerves and let
the troubles of their world slip away with
the Anti-Stress Cream from Edimi™ Skin
& Body Care. It can be applied on inner
ankles, wrists, elbow creases and behind the
ears. It is also great for rosacea, according
to the company. www.edimi.com
3 SMOOTH
ELIMINATION
The Bio Jouvance Paris
Slimming & Firming Microgel
is formulated with marine
and botanical extracts that
help stimulate the lymph flow
and circulation to eliminate
excess fatty deposits and
13
toxins from congested
tissues, says the company.
www.biojouvance.com
11 14
12 15
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21 22 23 24 25
26 27 28 29 30
16 17
31 32 33 34 35
5 TRAP IN THE BEAUTY
13 Try out an amazing new product
for moisture retention and skin
21 22
protection with the Nutriboost
Ultra Cocooning Cream from
11 14 26
Decléor’s new NutriDivine range. 27
4 SWEET TOOTH SATISFACTION It intensely nourishes the skin, boosts
lipid production, restores water
Help your clients unwind from the hot sun with a relaxing body or
foot massage with Whoopie! from Farmhouse Fresh, a supple and balance over the long term, brightens
the complexion and promotes cell
sweet smelling blend of shea and cocoa butters, jojoba seed oil,
12 15
soybean oil, aloe and vitamins A and E. Whoopie! is designed to 31
renewal as it wraps dry skin in a
protective cocoon and prolongs
32
improve the skin’s elasticity, and the aloe and vitamin E help to calm
skin’s irritations and sunburns. www.farmhousefreshgoods.com youthfulness. www.decleor.com
16 17 18 19 20
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTHEW PACE
Page 58 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Get your spa ready for the
BARE ALL
for summer treatments and
retail madness! The following
pages display an abundance
of outstanding products to
meet your clients’ needs
both in and out of the
treatment room during this
sunny time of year. 4
13
11 14
13
12 15
11 14
16 17 18 19 20
12 15
21 22 23 24 25
16 17 18 19 20
26 27 28 29 30
13
21 22 23 24 25
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26 27 28 29 30
13
12 15
31 32 33 14 34
11 35
16 17 7 SHINE-FREE 19
18 SUN CARE 20
Jan Marini’s Antioxidant Daily
12 15
Face Protectant SPF 30 is
comprised of an impressive
21 22 23
concoction of high tech
24
ingredients. The lightweight,
2
non-greasy formula ensures long
6 17 18 19 20 lasting coverage for extended
26 27 28
exposure conditions with a
29
broad spectrum SPF 30 rating
that is highly water resistant,
6 BANISH ANY BLEMISH!
1 22 23
The Epifactor Bio Skin Restoration Gel24 25is designed to transform all
from DermaSwiss
says the company. Excess oils
are trapped and eliminated by
types of skin problems. Derived from natural herbal extracts, it is made with an anti-aging
molecule. Epifactor stimulates cellular proliferation, regeneration, restoration, healing, 31 32 33 34
microscopic sponge technology,
leaving a matte finish free of oil
metabolic improvement and wrinkle reduction. It can be used to treat scars, peelings,
6 27 28 29 30
microdermabrasions, laser treatments, burns and rosacea. www.dermaswiss.com
and shine. www.janmarini.com
8 SANDAL-READY FEET
The Crystal Colour Foot Spa
from Klapp Cosmetics is the
perfect treatment to keep
feet looking great during the
summer, a time when they
are so often exposed. It uses
natural active ingredients
and beautiful aromas to
13
give the special spa foot
bath a wonderful wellness
feel. The key ingredient
is Klapp’s Crystal Powder,
11 14
which is simply combined
with tepid water and a
12 15
dissolving solution to create
the treatment formula.
www.klapp-usa-shop.com
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21 11 1423
22 24 25
13
26 12 1528
27 29 30
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16 17 31
18 3219 2033 34 35
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21 22 23 24 25 14
11 18 11 ALL20
19
16 17 DAY
SUN CARE
Your clients will be drawn
26 27 28 29 30 15
to the Sun Care Hair and
22 12 23
Body Cleanser by Aveda
21 24 25
on your shelf, a color
safe formula that gently
and effectively removes
31 32 33 34
16 35 20
17 26 18 27 19 28 29
chlorine, salt and product
30
residue from the hair and
body while maintaining
moisture balance.
www.aveda.com
21 22 31 23 32 24 3325 34 35
26 27 28 29 30
Page 60 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
14 DEFENSE
FROM DRYNESS
13 PEEL TO PURITY Biologique Recherche has
Encourage your clients to optimize their shower created Huile Bénéfique, a rich,
routines during these beach days with the luscious oil for the body and
Refreshing Shower Peeling from Biodroga face that nourishes the skin and
Systems. The lightly lathering gel with peeling guards it against dehydration
granules provides a thorough cleansing and throughout the year. The pure
a mild peeling, gently removing dead surface luxury product is formulated with
flakes and activating microcirculation, says the rare essential oils and plant extracts 15 BEACH-
company. Sesame oil optimizes the moisture that leave behind glowing skin. READY BODY
level of the skin, leaving behind supple skin www.biologique-recherche.com Offer your clients the
and a healthy glow. www.biodrogausa.com perfect formula to help
them unwind after a
scorching day in the
sun with Skin Blends’
all natural Comforting
Body Oil, which contains
added essential oils that
are great for the skin!
www.skinblends.com
12 REFRESHINGLY
SOOTHING
The refreshing Shea Butter
and Mint Moisture Balm 13 13
from Éminence Organics
is a combination of organic
avocado, tea tree and
peppermint oil and shea 11 14 11 14
butter. The soothing moisture
balm leaves behind soft skin.
13
www.eminenceorganics.com
12 15 11 14 12 15
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12
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19 20 23 24 25 1
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13
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29 3033 34 35 12
11 14
32 33 34 35 16 17 18 19
31
12 15
21 22 23 24
18 19 20
16 OCEAN MAGIC
Present your clients with a shower product that will keep them glowing 26 27 28 29
23 24 25
all summer long! The Sea Spa Glow Natural Exfoliator with Dead Sea
Salts from Repêchage is loaded with salt minerals that deliver a full
spectrum of beauty delivering elements. Dead Sea Salts are known to
replenish minerals important to skin metabolism, open pores and slough
31 32 33 34
28 29 30
away dead skin cells, giving skin that healthy glow! www.repechage.com
18 SUBTLE SCREENING
13
Image Skincare’s Tinted Solar Defense
13
11 14
Organic SPF 30 offers smooth, even coverage
in a universal tint, daily moisture and broad
spectrum physical UVA/UVB protection.
11 14
It is enriched with essential vitamins and
antioxidants that prevent free-radical damage.
www.imageskincare.com
12 15
12 15
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13
12 15
11 14 16 17 18
16 17 18 19 20
12 15 21 22 23
21 22 23 24 25
18 30 19 20 26 27 28
26 2716 17
28 29 21 CLEAR
PROTECTION
17 SMOOTH
UV Defense SPF32
31 33
SkinCeuticals’ Sheer Physical
21 22 23 25
35 24
SUMMER SKIN 50 is a
31 32
The revolutionary broad-
33
spectrum perfecting protection
34 transparent, mattifying and
paraben-free fluid. The
SPF 30 from PCA Skin® provides 19 ZIT ZAPPER sheer, silky formula spreads
26 27
the skin with five melanogenesis
inhibitors in addition to
28
name promises. Glycolic 30 the skin while
29 acid exfoliates
Ladyburd’s Acne Treatment Gel does exactly what its
evenly, dries quickly and
leaves behind no residue,
UV protection, which work glycerin and aloe moisturize and soothe. Witch hazel
says the company.
together to reduce existing skin acts as an astringent to help control oil and licorice
www.skinceuticals.com
discoloration while preventing root extract reduces the appearance of redness. The
31
future hyperpigmentation.
www.pcaskin.com
32 33 34 35
powerful gel is perfect for oily and acne prone skin.
www.ladyburd.com
12 15
25 YOUTHFUL GLOW
23 UV FREE
GLOW 16 17 18 19 20 Bronzed DN-Age
Rhonda Allison’s
Self-Tanner produces a natural and
Fake Bake’s Airbrush long lasting glow as it reverses the
Self-Tanning Spray signs of sun damage and aging.
25
is an exclusive
21 22 23
Its key ingredient is cassia alata, a
formula with a high
content of DHA and
24
natural protective system that fights
photo-aging and damage from
erythrulose, which
bond with individual
free radicals and DNA induced by 26 RAPID RELIEF
skin pigments.
26 27 28 29 30
UV rays. It is also used to enhance
collagen production and reduce
This summer stock your
spa with PFB’s numb-
The technology
transports the active 13
hyperpigmentation and age spots.
www.RhondaAllison.com
IT™. The fast acting
topical anesthetic gel
ingredients to is designed to take the
deeper layers of the
31
skin to result in a tan 32 33 34 113514 sting out of hair removal.
It is great for pain relief
that is intense, even from waxing, electrolysis
and natural looking, and laser treatments.
says the company. Numb-IT also helps
www.fakebake.com
12 15
relieve itching associated
with minor skin irritations,
inflammation and rashes.
www.pfbvanish.com
16 17 18 19 20
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11 30
1335 16 17
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12 15 34
11 14 21 22
16 17 18 19 20
12 15 26 27
21 22 23 24 25
16 17 18 19 20 31 32
2226 ENRICHED SHIELD
27 28 29 30
25
Now you can offer your clients an
21
elegant sun protection alternative 22 23 24
32
with the Solar Protection Formula
31
TIZO3 SPF 40. The tinted 33 34 35
formulation of iron and zinc oxides
offers sheer and elegant 26
protection
with a smooth and silky matte finish.
27 28THE PAIN 29
24 EASE 30
www.fallene.com The Trauma Drama Solution from Bikini Kitty is a healing spray that soothes skin with
lavender, strengthens it with the powerful witch hazel and protects it with the anti-infection
benefits of tea tree oil. Use it after waxing services and offer to your clients as an optional
31 32 33 34 35
add-on sale to use at home to strengthen delicate skin in waxing areas between treatments.
www.smoothspaskincare.com
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 63
13
summer bare all
28 EYE-SCREEN
Stock your shelves with
11 14
Murad’s Essential-C Eye
Cream SPF 15. In addition 30 UV FREE GLOW
27 SVELTE SHAPE-UP to protecting and hydrating Your sun shunning clients will love
Try Klapp’s new Body Bandages
from the company’s Alternative
the delicate eye area, it
restores youthful elasticity
12 15
Fake Bake’s new Bronzy Babe Pressed
Powder Soft Sheer Bronzer, a luxurious
Medical product line for your and firmness to the area powder that creates a beautiful and
summer slim-down services. They and softens the appearance natural looking bronzy glow, says
are wrapped around problem areas,
where they tighten connective 16 17
of lines and dark circles,
says the company.
18 19 20
the company. It contains oil-control
ingredients to prevent shine.
tissue. Caffeine helps stimulate www.murad.com www.fakebake.com
drainage and activates a fat-
splitting enzyme to decompose
fat, while Centella asiatica has
a firming and regenerating
21 22 23 24 25
effect on overstretched areas.
www.klapp-usa-shop.com
26 27 28 29 30
31 32 13 33 34 35
11 14
13
12 15
11 14
16 17 18 19 20
12 15
21 22 23 24 25
16 17 18 19 20
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13
21 22 23 24 25
31 32 33 34 35
11 14
26 27 28 29 30
12 15
29 CAFFEINE FIX 31 32 33 3431 LASTING
35LUMINOSITY
PRIORI’s CoffeeBerry
19 20
France Laure introduces its
16 17
Natural Daily Protection
SPF 25 creates optimum 18 RévoluSolaire30 Corrective
in a genuine cream to powder
skin protection against compact with a perfect color
the sun’s damaging UV balance of pigments that create an
25
rays, and serves as a
21 22
daily brightening skin
regimen. It has a light
23 24
impeccably natural complexion.
The long lasting, lightweight
RévoluSolaire30 Corrective
color that melts and contains ultra fine scattered
blends with all skin tones
26 27
to provide a sheer layer
of naturally beautiful
28 29 30 actives that provide maximum
protection against environmental
aggressions and premature aging.
and protected skin. www.francelaure.com
www.prioriskincare.com
31 32 33
Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com 34 35 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
13
12 15
by increasing cellular
properties even skin tone and botanicals leave a silky
integrity and facilitating
smooth feel. The mask is designed to add texture and
11
viscosity control to formulations and tighten skin. 14 collagen production to
diminish fine lines and
www.bio-therapeutic.com
13 20
wrinkles, promote elasticity,
19
16 17 18 even tone and smoothen
the skin while reducing
12 15 14
11
symptoms and conditions
of rosacea and acne.
32 PRETTY PROTECTION
21
The PurePressed Base from jane iredale 22 23 24
www.phytocskincare.com
25
is a non-comedogenic base that functions
16 17
as a concealer, foundation, powder18 19 20
and sunscreen all in one. It comes in 24 12 2815 30
26
shades to suit every possible skin tone.
It creates a soft focus effect diffusing
27 29
21 22 23 18 24 1925 20
the appearance of fine lines, pores and
16 17
wrinkles, and provides a matte finish.
www.janeiredale.com
31 32 33 34 35
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21 22 23 24 25
11 14
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29
121315
31 32 33 34 35
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1626 17 18
26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35
33 CUTTING-EDGE
Osmosis introduces their cutting-edge Catalyst Skin Restoration
Serum with SRGF-7 (Skin Repair Growth Factor). SRGF-7 rejuvenates
DNA/RNA by promoting the repair of damaged strands, stimulating col-
lagen production and regulating pigment production, says the company.
The serum works to reduce cellular inflammation, a contributing factor to
skin aging, and delivers a dramatic improvement of melasma, age spots,
UV damage, redness or broken capillaries. www.osmosisskincare.com
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 65
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #146 on reader service card
spa|tiny terrors
By Nadine Toriello
W
ARM WEATHER IS FINALLY
here and the beach beck-
ons! Spa goers sporting cute
swimsuits are slathered in sunblock, gear-
ing up to enjoy their day. It starts off as a
perfect afternoon of fun in the sun until
they eventually wade into the ocean,
never suspecting that a vicious predator
lurks beneath the waves ready to attack.
No, the predator is not Jaws, but
rather microscopic larvae of the thimble
jellyfish and other ocean stingers com-
monly known as “sea lice.” (True sea
lice are actually marine parasites that If someone thinks they have been exposed to the
only affect fish.) These so-called sea larvae, they should get out of the water immediately,
lice are sometimes half a millimeter remove their swimsuit and shower thoroughly.
in length or smaller, and can become
trapped between the bathing suit and
the skin or compressed in crevices like Rashes and blisters from the stings may histamines such as Benadryl may help
the armpit, causing the stinging cells be very painful, and could result in a se- to relieve the itching. There are some
(called nematocysts) to react. rious infection due to repeated scratch- products, such as Safe Sea, that are
These larvae are found year-round ing. Severe reactions may include fever, designed to repel the jellyfish larvae
in the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, chills, headaches, nausea and vomiting, and prevent the stingers from attach-
South America and the Caribbean, but most commonly in children. Symptoms ing to the skin. As estheticians, we
can do their damage from April to may not appear for up to six hours after should not do any services on clients
August along both U.S. coasts. The lar- exposure to the larvae, and last anywhere who have been stung until the affected
vae may cluster in high concentrations from two days to two weeks. skin has healed.
called “clouds” or “blooms.” They can If someone thinks they have been Bikini waxing must wait until the cli-
be seen by the naked eye but become exposed to the larvae, they should get ent is healed and there are no signs of
almost invisible in the water, so they out of the water immediately, remove swelling, blistering or lesions.
can only be detected after the damage their swimsuit and shower thoroughly. We can all enjoy the summer months
has been done, when a rash appears Do not rinse with fresh water while still on the beach, but remember to bring
on the victim. in the swimsuit! Any stinging cells still in the sunblock, sunglasses, good reading
Common symptoms of a sea lice at- the fibers of the bathing suit may release material and a healthy fear of the tiny
tack may include an intensely itchy red more venom. Do not put the swimsuit terrors that lurk beneath the surface! n
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Joe Lena
rash with small blisters and swelling of back on until it has been properly laun-
the skin. These lesions can appear any- dered with detergent and dried.
where on the body, but tend to be con- Vinegar and meat tenderizer are Nadine Toriello is the owner of All About
centrated in areas covered by a swimsuit, common home remedies to relieve You Day Spa in Key West, Florida. She is
as large numbers of larvae often become the itching and burning from sea lice. also an esthetician, licensed body wrap
trapped between the fabric and the skin. Hydrocortisone cream and oral anti- specialist and a CEU provider in Florida.
M
ANY CLIENTS CONFESS THAT CEL-
Five-step cellulite
revitalizing program
1. Professional relationships: Trust creates
compliance. According to Jenny Norris, a li-
censed massage/body therapist practicing at
Institut’ DERMed in Atlanta, GA, one of the pri-
mary components in a successful cellulite pro-
gram is to create a trusting, non-judgemental
relationship with female clients that enables
them to feel safe to openly talk about their
bodies and how cellulite impacts their life. “I
ask my client why they want a consultation from
me and what results are they expecting,” she
explains. “I assess how committed they are
and then create a program tailored to meet
their needs. The majority of women who try to
make a change by following the program rec-
ommendations get results.”
You may want to ask some of the following
questions during your initial assessment:
• How do you feel about having cellulite?
• How uncomfortable, tender or painful is it?
• What actions would you consider taking to
reduce your cellulite?
• What kind of results do you want
from the cellulite program?
SELF-ESTEEM
Body Smoothie
protein shake:
In a blender, mix the
following ingredients:
1 banana
1/4 cup frozen berries
2 cups unsweetened soymilk
1/2 cup raw, organic
sunflower seeds
According to Gustavo Leibaschoff, M.D., cellulite-free body by providing fiber and many
The Body
cosmeceutical cellulite products are reported other essential vitamins, minerals, enzymes, an-
Smoothie is a to accelerate and help maintain non-surgical tioxidants, anti-inflammatories, plant proteins
delicious and and surgical based treatment results when used and even a phytohormone from soy milk that
low calorie for home care. In order for topical products to helps balance estrogens in the female body.
treat that is improve the condition of cellulite, they must
perfect for a address multiple pathological changes. Look Hydration: Water enables nearly every
firm summer for products with these ingredients to stimu- part of the human body to function efficiently.
late circulation and increase micro vascular flow Considering that almost two thirds of our bodies
physique.
(sea minerals, niacin, acetyl carnitine, guarana are made up of water, it is important to under-
seed extract and caffeine), lymphatic drainage stand water’s role in a healthy lifestyle. Annette
(essential oils of geranium, rosemary, juniper Richardson, managing director of One Medical
berry, cinnamon leaf) and skin renewal (wild yam Group in Newport Beach, CA, offers the follow-
extract, matrixyl peptides, glycolic acid, alpha ing suggestion to her Synergie clients: “Carry a
lipoic acid, essential fatty acids). The more ef- water bottle that contains all of the water you
fective products also contain liposomes to assist need to drink in a day to take the guess work
with active ingredient penetration to subdermal out of it.” Her formula for figuring out how much
layers of the skin. her clients should drink is based on weight. A
woman needs to drink half of her weight in
Nutrition: Most of your female clients know ounces daily. For example, if she weighs 120
which foods are good for them and which are pounds, she needs to drink 60 ounces a day.
not. To address cellulite, a diet needs to be
based around fresh produce, healthy fats and Exercise: When you work out, you burn
lean proteins. Avoid processed foods, such as 15 times as many calories as you do when you
those containing white flour, sugar and trans are sitting still. And even when you stop, your
fats. Eating organic foods does not bring any metabolic rate is increased, so you continue
extra toxins into the body, which is also helpful. burning calories six to ten percent faster for up
Green tea and yerbe mate stimulate metabo- to 12 hours. You also lose weight when you gain
lism. You can suggest these as replacements for muscle mass. Fat does not burn any calories,
photo: © Kineticimagery/Dreamstime.com
coffee. Look for foods sweetened with xylitol, while one pound of muscle burns 35 calories
a naturally occurring sugar found in fruits and per hour. In addition, exercise stimulates circu-
vegetables. It is absorbed slowly by the body, lation. Five times as much blood flows through
creating a steady blood glucose level. your arteries and veins when you work out as
The Body Smoothie is a delicious and low when you rest, and that blood is packed with
calorie treat that is perfect for a firm summer oxygen and nutrients. Exercise even boosts the
physique. It enhances energy and supports a continues
Conclusion
Everything in life has a balance. The female body
showcases how intricate biological systems can
easily get thrown off, especially in modern times
with incessant demands. As the trusted profes-
sional, you can make a difference in bringing
that body ecology back into natural balance.
Your knowledge, dedication and caring for your
clients’ cellulite issues changes lives for the bet-
ter. The Cellulite Five-Step Revitalizing Program
is a useful guide for creating physical beauty
and health that lasts a lifetime for the women
that have the privilege of being your client. n
1•888•290•6238 www.szepelet.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #274 on reader service card
Totally New Lush Microfiber Microfiber Snap-On Wrap
w/ AEGIS Antibacterial Protection
®
w/Microban® Antibacterial Protection
16” x 27”
Pink
28” x 50”
Velvety Soft, Super Absorbent, Lint & Odor Free Size: 63”W x 35”L
Olive
NEW
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Non-Skid
spa|botanical wrap-up
S
PAS ARE REPORTING A moval. It is massaged into the skin as
growing demand for wraps, and a hydrating and soothing product that
it’s no wonder! Wraps, which saves time, water and money.
date back thousands of years to ancient echinacea
Egypt, work to hydrate, tighten and Botanical healing wraps
tone the skin, as well as aid in circula- Enhanced with a host of active bo- regenerative properties. Traditionally,
tion and cleanse the body of toxins. tanicals, these new wraps provide a echinacea has been used to prevent
The treatments that were once popu- range of healing and skin rejuvenating colds and the flu, as well as other in-
lar for skin renewal during the holidays benefits. Burdock, echinacea, figwort fections, and is believed to boost the
immune system. It is highly regarded
for its skin healing properties, and has
The treatments that were once popular for
been used for minor skin wounds and
skin renewal during the holidays and seasonal inflammation.
changes are now becoming part of the routine spa Figwort has historically been used
experience among a growing number of clients. in both Western and Eastern medicinal
traditions. It supports detoxification and
is used for treating chronic skin dis-
and seasonal changes are now becom- and watercress are some of the more eases such as eczema and psoriasis. It
ing part of the routine spa experience popular herbs added to wraps to treat is applied topically to alleviate itching,
among a growing number of clients. various skin and medical conditions. burns, abscesses and wounds. Figwort
The good news is that the increased Burdock has been used for cen- also has stress-relieving properties.
demand for wraps is supported by a turies to improve a variety of medical Watercress is a perennial aquatic
new generation of offerings that make conditions and improve skin health. herb with many valuable properties.
it possible to perform treatments that The medicinal herb, native to Europe Originally from Europe and now grown
are traditionally carried out in a wet and Northern Asia and now wide- throughout Western Asia, watercress
room in a dry environment. Such wraps spread in the United States, is most is chock full of essential vitamins and
are formulated to stay moist and re- notably used as a blood purifier that minerals including calcium, phospho-
tain their creamy texture. They gener- clears the bloodstream of toxins. It rus, magnesium, iron, sodium, potas-
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Zorani
ally remove easily with a warm, damp is also used as a diuretic and topical sium, vitamins A and C, B1, B2 and
cloth, resulting in considerable savings remedy for skin problems including niacin. It also contains micronutrients
in water usage in comparison to wet eczema, acne and psoriasis. that work in tandem with antioxidants
room treatments. Another recent wrap Echinacea is a flowering plant to combat cancer breeding free radi-
to come to market is in the form of a grown in North America and Europe cals in the body.
balm, which does not even require re- that is used in wraps for its healing and continues
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Shutterworx
professional massage oils, creams,
lotions, gels and body treatment
lines. She founded the company
in 1980 and continues to be in
volved in the development of the
company’s formulas.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card
Page 76 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
by Denise R. Fuller
G
racious hospitality begins with a first impression.
SPA | HOTEL | FITNESS
1.800.772.1408
spauniforms.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #353 on reader service card
spa|25 expert tips
Dave Waggoner, Southwest Insitute of cards and put your business dressed for a walk-in. Do not
Natural Aesthetics instructor, Phoenix, AZ logo on the front and inside with a leave it undone while on a break. It is
scripted note to them thanking them not uncommon that potential clients will
appealing, it is unsanitary and the guest stant feedback from— both good and
will be very disappointed in the spa pre- bad. Constantly learning and growing
sentation. Keep it clean at all times.” my skills is key.”
Elizabeth A. Edwards, esthetician and Millie Haynam, author, speaker,
editorial assistant for Milady’s, a division award winning salon owner
of Cengage Learning.
Can One Ingredient?
19 “After every client’s visit, I follow
up with a handwritten card thank-
ing them for their patronage, and enclose
22 “Believe in yourself, trust your
instincts, and stay focused.
Anything is possible if you are willing to in-
Heal Melasma
Heal Rosacea
Heal Actinic Keratosis
a professionally printed card for 10 per- vest the time and diligence to make it hap- Shrink Facial Capillaries
cent off their next service. They love it!” pen. Mastery and success is a decision.“
Generate Perfect Collagen
Gigi Walentiny, RN, LME Blue Willow David Suzuki, president
Skin Care, Virginia Beach, VA of Bio-Therapeutic SRGF-7TM
The Greatest Ingredient
in Skincare History
W
HEN THE LAZY DAYS OF SUMMER room. As you begin her pedicure, you notice the beginning
arrive, a laid back attitude tends to come of athlete’s foot. You choose to ignore it and continue with
along for the ride. People are more care- the service. Now not only has your pedicure station been
free than usual during the summer months. contaminated—so has everywhere else.
They walk around barefoot, sit in sweaty lounge chairs and We have an obligation to advise our clients appropriately
use each other’s towels at the beach—unknowingly transfer- when we notice a possibly contagious condition. Offer a sub-
ring bacteria and disease. stitute service and refer the client to a physician for treatment.
The sticky heat and humidity of summer create a perfect
breeding ground for parasites, bacteria, fungi and viruses.
Foreign invaders can wreak havoc in the spa without our SCENARIO 3
knowledge. All services are risky, particularly waxing, mani- It has been a great day, packed with appointments and healthy
cures, pedicures, body treatments and facials. retail sales, but now you are looking forward to the summer
These perpetrators do not discriminate. They find homes evening ahead. If you do not leave now you will definitely hit
in blood, skin and dark, moist areas such as underarms, groin traffic. So you decide to disinfect your brushes in the morn-
and inside of the nose. That may result in everything from ing. When the morning comes, however, you forget that the
minor skin irritations to more serious illnesses or infection. brushes on your counter have not been cleaned. You start to
Not only are our clients at risk, but we as providers can prepare as usual for your first client, creating another perfect
be affected as well. We may have paper cuts, torn cuticles, opportunity for infections to spread.
scratches and microscopic fissures invisible to the naked eye, When we visit a restaurant, we usually base our opinion
which can serve as direct pathways for the spread of disease. on the look and feel of the establishment. We would never
When we place safety at the bottom of our priority list, consciously choose to dine in a dirty place. But do we ever
we compromise our health, as well as the safety of our co- really know what is going on in the kitchen? Is the food pre-
workers and clients. pared with our health and safety in mind? Those brushes left
on the counter are no more safe than the carelessly prepared
food in the back of the restaurant!
SCENARIO 1
In the heat of the summer, a new client arrives for a bikini
wax. You have read articles on the importance of wearing SCENARIO 4
gloves and the danger of double dipping. You follow ap- In order to save money, you decide to change your disin-
propriate guidelines when necessary. In this case, you do fectant less frequently and use disposable items more than
a visual check of the area to be waxed. The skin looks fine, once. After all, how dirty can they possibly get? Once again,
so you proceed with your favorite reusable metal applicator you have created a perfect breeding ground for disease.
and no gloves. You have now created the perfect opportu- Dirty disinfectant is ineffective. Replace it with fresh solu-
nity for infection to spread in your spa. tion whenever floating debris or cloudiness is apparent. Follow
The above example is just one of those decisions that manufacturers’ guidelines and check with your state board.
may seem inconsequential at the time it is made, much like Some states have updated, or are in the process of updating,
choosing to send a text while driving. However if we continue regulations to include sterilization by autoclave of reusable
to take our eyes off the road—even for a second—something implements, along with the enforcement of using disposables
devastating could happen that ultimately jeopardizes both one time only. The purchase of an autoclave is a very wise
our safety and the safety of others. That is true when a poor investment, regardless of whether or not it is required by law.
decision is made behind the wheel and while performing a Consciously or unconsciously, we put our own lives and
treatment at the spa. the lives of others at risk on a daily basis. Every time we get
in our cars, eat in a restaurant or visit a spa we are placing
our safety in someone else’s hands.
SCENARIO 2 Documented cases of dreadful infections have been
Your spa is located in a beach town where swimsuits and traced back to unsanitary conditions in salons and spas
bare feet are the norm—and your establishment is no ex- throughout the country, namely methicillin-resistant staph-
ception. A client arrives without an appointment, and you ylococcus aureus, or MRSA. Experts say that even healthy
ask her to wait 10 minutes. During the waiting period, she people may be carriers. 4
photo: Stockbyte/Getty Images
strolls barefoot into your retail boutique, hair salon and ladies continues
Beware of
summer
invaders guarding spa safety
nail files, buffers and sponges. and is also the owner of a successful skin care and image
• Keep wax clean by covering wax pot when not in use consulting business. Linda Rae is the owner of Linda Rae
and never, ever double dip—regardless of what you Skin Care and the creator of a results-oriented pre/post facial
may read or hear. plastic surgery program. She was formerly an international
• Wear gloves when giving services, educator for a major skin care line. They may be reached at
cleaning up and handling dirty linens. info@TaylorRae.net.
SILHOUETTE DOWNSIZER
Impress your clients with a high-tech solution to their
cellulite with Dectro’s Vital-Ultra. With its unique
combination of radiowave, infrared light, chromotherapy
and vacuodermy, Vital-Ultra reduces swelling and redefines
the body outline, says the company. Clients should
SLIM SOLUTION notice a loss in volume and a reduction of cellulite in
The Cellulite Rx Contour Body desired areas after the first session. www.dectro.com
Wrap from Institut’ DERMed is
the perfect service to slim and
tone your clients for the beach
this summer. The treatment is
performed with a combination of
products containing concentrated
QUALITY CLOSE-UP As part of the innovative
redesign of the award-winning 2010 bt-GEAR™
therapeutic active ingredients
line, Bio-Therapeutic introduces the bt-view™.
that diminish the appearance
The new piece of equipment is an ergonomic shape,
of cellulite. Cellulite Rx includes
with an enhanced high definition camera that is capable
Quosome, a liposome delivery
of magnifying the skin up to 200 times, according
system that enhances the
to the company. The bt-view can be used up to 20
penetration of skin firming
feet away, making it perfect for a treatment room,
ingredients. Glycolic acid,
nanoLounge™ or retail floor. www.bio-therapeutic.com
lipotherm and lipolift are also
applied in a three-step process
including a wrap and massage
procedure to exfoliate, firm and
tone. www.idermed.com
FABULOUS FUSION
Resurface the skin with the HydraFacial MD®
serum-based hydradermabrasion system from
Edge Systems. The HydraFacial uses patented
HydroPeel® tips to resurface the skin while
simultaneously infusing powerful serums packed
with antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptide complex
and acid peels. It includes a touchscreen design
with built-in protocols. www.edgesystem.net
MORE NEWS
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #229 on reader service card
Page 86 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
business|marketing boot camp
By Tracy L. Drumm
E
XPERIENCE LEARNING WITH
a new sizzle that is helping spas
thrive during these turbulent eco-
nomic times. With the help of everything
from live music to personalized snacks,
innovative seminar series are giving a
pulse back to spas all over the nation.
What do these “marketing boot camps”
entail? More importantly, how can their offer. A simple photo album works add the following sentence to all of
innovative concepts get your phones fine, but if you really want to grab your printed publicity: “Help us be
ringing and fill your schedule? people’s attention as they sit in your green by sharing this with a friend.” By
Day long courses that have been waiting room, consider a profession- adding just one line to all brochures,
sweeping the nation are showing attend- al hardcover photo book. Create an business cards or newsletters, you can
ees how to build their practices without album that showcases before and potentially double the reach of your
breaking the bank. Here are four inex- after photos while describing your marketing efforts without increasing
pensive ways to keep business booming. facial treatment options in detail. your costs. Add a similar concept to
• Pre-commit. Establish a relationship Services like eyebrow waxing, mi- every page of your website, encour-
with your clients before they even crodermabrasion and chemical peels aging visitors to “email this page to
come in. Simply turn your appoint- make great visuals and are exciting a friend.” The effort has the added
ment reminder calls into introductory for clients to read about. value of collecting email addresses
calls from the provider. Have the es- • Retain. Maintain their loyalty! An easy of more prospective clients.
thetician, physician’s assistant, nurse way to get your phone ringing and A great new book that offers in-
or even the physician block off 30 min- your schedule booked is to encour- expensive tips to help your business
utes on Fridays to call new patients age your existing customers to keep get and stay busy is THRIVE: Pearls
scheduled for the following week. coming back. Give each client a “loy- to Prosper in Any Economy by Steven
The provider can introduce them- alty card” that accumulates points. Dayan, M.D., F.A.C.S.
selves and let the patients know they You can mark these by initialing or In the current economy, everyone
are looking forward to meeting. They stamping them after each treatment or needs to carry out a strong marketing
can also encourage first time patients whenever a specific dollar amount has plan if they want to keep their business
to write down questions before their been spent. Once a client has enough booming. n
appointment to ensure that any con- signatures or stamps to fill the card,
cerns are covered during their consul- give them a free treatment! By giving Tracy Drumm, vice president of IF Mar
tation. The small gesture makes a last- the patient a goal, you are turning keting, specializes in the branding and
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Suprijono Suharjoto
ing impression, and it can be the first each appointment into an investment promotion of cosmetic practices. She
step to creating a long, loyal relation- towards a reward. The loyalty card is is known for her creative and easy-to-
ship between the spa and customer. an effective way to incentivize patients implement strategies designed to de
• Educate. Esthetics is a visual indus- to return, and also helps them to jus- liver results. Drumm has co-authored
try where seeing is believing. It is no tify spending money. two marketing books, Thrive and
secret that before and after photos • Refer. Did you know that you can gen- Keys to Success: Marketing & Practice
can easily peak interest and gener- erate new referrals without spending Management. For more information,
ate excitement for the services you extra funds on promotions? Simply please visit www.ifmark.com.
by Marion Bodner
M
Y EMPLOYMENT UNDER have to give up half of my paycheck. I lucky to find a business accountant that
plastic surgeons and der- decide for myself what to charge for is perfect for me, and we barter services
matologists was the most products and services, and help all my with each other. I give her a monthly skin
valuable educational experience I ever clients receive skin care that suits their care treatment and in return she handles
could have had to further my skills as a budget so they leave feeling satisfied. my bookkeeping business accounts. My
taxes and purchases are always up to date,
and we are both happy. It is a win-win
I can be me! I express myself fully, and am able to
arrangement.
best serve my clients. The money I make is all mine As estheticians, we carry a lot of
—I do not have to give up half of my paycheck. products, unlike a massage therapist,
who is ready to perform a service with
only a bottle of massage lotion.
skin care practitioner. After many years Love all the hats! Estheticians need a great range of
of learning all I could in the realm of Being my own boss requires wearing products to meet compatibility with all
medical skin care, I took the plunge and many hats. I am the skin care expert the various skin conditions and types,
opened my own skin care business. and the front desk girl. I place the skin as well as hair waxing, eyelash and
I wanted to create a private, safe and care orders, write the checks, take out brow tinting, makeup, back bar sup-
cozy atmosphere for my clients. I now the garbage, clean the office, buy the plies and so on.
have more time to educate them on flowers and schedule my own clients. As exciting as it is, keeping up with
how to achieve the best results for their Handling the front desk when I am the latest skin care equipment and prod-
individual skin conditions. The big bonus alone can be challenging. I place orders ucts to help reduce age spots, wrinkles,
for me is that I now have the freedom before seeing my first client of the day fine lines, tone and texture can be very
to do my own research and select the and return calls between sessions. In costly. We must choose our ingredients
products I believe in without acquiring order to get everything done, I arrive an wisely while at the same time manag-
permission from anyone. hour before opening time. At the end of ing the cost.
Being in charge of my own sched- the day, I balance out all the paperwork Doing research and conversing with
uling is a joy, leaving me the time I and make sure everything is in its proper other estheticians and sales reps helps
want and need to assist my clients in place. I also do the laundry each day. me to make wise choices on purchases.
achieving optimal results. I am in no Maintaining a routine is essential for me. It is very easy to overspend, as the skin
hurry; clients do not feel rushed and care industry is flooded with enticing new
extra time is well spent on a produc- The challenges products and equipment all the time.
tive one-on-one experience. Bookkeeping is the biggest challenge for We need to keep stock on our shelves
I can be me! I express myself fully, me. The task entails making sure every in order to have a complete operation
and am able to best serve my clients. transaction is correct and keeping track and give our clients enough choices. I
The money I make is all mine—I do not of all services and product sales. I was continues
*Actual Ingredients
Peptide Mobilizer
Formulated with 60% Peptides!
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #261 on reader service card
by David Suzuki
business|biz smart
C
OMPETITION IS GOOD. THE Competition is not limited to any one
drive to compete pushes peo- sport, business or country. It exists in
ple and makes them strive to every part of the world and every as-
be better. You see the rivalry each pect of our lives. The basic instinct to
year in the early days of summer, survive, thrive and progress are part
when every kid participates in camp of the human condition. It is essential
activities and wants to be a part of to the survival of our species.
Page 92 • www.LNEONLINE.com
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 93
business|biz smart
their skill and commitment level went are quickly able to find individuals who
unnoticed and did not seem to matter have similar parameters of seniority
to anyone? How would a child perform and job responsibilities and have sala-
in school if it did not matter what grade ries within 10 percent of one another,
they earned? And how hard would a yet have completely different levels
True Skin
Healing
Starts With
Your DNA
• Catalyst has Proven
it Protects Your DNA
in REAL TIME
• Dramatic Skin Changes
for Most Conditions
• SPF 15 Without
Merit based businesses are
a Sunscreen
in demand, as they are the
diamonds in the rough that
are shining brighter and more
resiliently now than ever before.
Be blessed
Regardless of whether you look to a grocery store, stock broker, restau-
rant or skin therapist, merit based businesses are in demand, as they
are the diamonds in the rough that are shining brighter and more re-
siliently now than ever before. It has been proven time and time again
that early adopters of change and trend have done more than simply
survive, they have dominated. Therefore, it is crucial for us to under-
stand the concept and function of the merit based business model,
and realize that it is the path we should all be following.
Those of you who have worked hard and been rewarded accord-
ingly are an inspiration to the rest of us to continue our diligence. You
offer evidence and hope that anything is possible. Blessings to all
those who win by striving to improve and embracing competition. n
CRACKING THE
bottle photo: ©iStockphoto.com/ Studio21214
Give each
customer samples
specifically INTRODUCING
tailored to their
individual needs.
Step 5: Protocols
Develop protocols for evaluating your customers’ skin and selling strategies within
your treatment rooms. I recommend upgrading spa treatments from the traditional
50 minute to a 60 minute experience. The additional 10 minutes can be used to
evaluate the spa consumer’s needs, and allows your technician to build a personal
relationship with their customer as well as evaluate their skin. Many customers
view the technicians as “caregivers,” not simply service providers. Nearly every
department store provides miniature samples to their consumers at the makeup
counters. These tiny samples give the consumer the impression of product ex-
clusivity, and allows them an opportunity to take something home to try. If they
like the products you have given them, they are more likely to purchase them
on their next visit. Give your customers the miniature products before they leave
the treatment room, along with cards carrying a description of the product’s ben-
efits. Give each customer samples specifically tailored to their individual needs.
Put the products into small bags imprinted with your logo. After your customers
have taken the samples, your front desk personnel can ask them if they need any
body or facial products. Your customer now has all the necessary information to
select the right products for themselves.
Step 6: Accountability
So far, you have identified the wants and needs of your customer and your brand
strategy for body and skin products. You have tested products and developed
evaluation and sales products. So what is left? You must hold your staff account-
able for both following the protocols and meeting consultation (sales) goals. You
need to track the average daily revenue and retail sale for each customer. Some
technicians focus on adding body and facial treatments but neglect to pitch retail.
By establishing a culture of accountability, the technician wins by receiving com-
mission on body and facial products, the customer wins because they are being
prescribed the best products for their skin and the owner wins because they are
increasing their revenue.
products have the lowest percentage. However, you need to focus on gross rev-
enue in dollars, not percentages. If you are able to sell a branded product for two
or three times as much in dollars as what you can sell generic products for, you
can generate more revenue. For example, a branded product that sells for $60
with a gross profit of 30 percent provides you with a total of $18 of gross profit.
On the other hand, if you sell a generic product for $20 with a gross profit of 50
continues
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 101
business|cracking the retail code
percent, you have a gross profit of $10. So the question becomes whether you
want to put $18 or $10 in your pocket.
The other two keys to the equation are product mix and volume. You may
have to sell two or three product lines to meet the variety of your consumers in
terms of product needs and pricing. Keeping products on your shelves that never
sell might make a great wall display, but it is costing you money because you are
unable to use these resources, and eventually they become a financial waste.
Carl A. Boger Jr. is the associate dean at the Conrad N. Hilton College at the
University of Houston. He is an expert on sensory branding and has created a
spa management program. Email him at cboger@uh.edu.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #168
Page 102 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
spa|news
biz |news commerce, trade, industry
body, equipment and people
and supply products
EXPERT INSTRUCTION
Author Susanne S. Warfield has recently writ-
ten a chapter in medical textbook Aesthetic
Oculofacial Rejuvenation, a publication that
PHOTO: LANA PENROSE
MORE NEWS
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 103
business|news
BRINGING
PROFESSIONALS TOGETHER
The Women’s Center at Metroplex Hospital in
Killeen, TX, has teamed up with Anna D. Rinehart,
CIDESCO Diplomat, facial esthetics instructor and
Texas approved CEU provider to develop a medical
esthetics clinical skin care program for the community.
The hospital-based curriculum includes a medical
esthetics training program for physicians, nurses
and estheticians. www.medicalaesthetics.com
NOTEWORTHY
PROMOTION
Mack Software, Inc. is proud
to announce the promotion
of Sylvia Mutong to training
specialist. Mutong has been a
technical support associate for
Mack Software for more than
two years. In her new positition,
she will be responsible for
the training of new clients.
www.macksoftware.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #213 on reader service card
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Page 104 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green corner|gradual greening
by Janet McCormick
T
HE SPA INDUSTRY IS EXPERI-
encing a trend towards “green,” Reduce the amount of water you
a concept embodied as a de- use in your room and you will save
sire to become more earth-friendly. How energy and minimize water waste.
could anyone possibly argue with that
purpose? But what about those of us
who are not in control or are located in a
building that is so old, it could not even
go chartreuse, let alone true green? The
widespread push to be green may make
people who would like to be eco-friend-
ly but believe they cannot feel guilty.
However, there are some easy changes when the room is occupied and auto- front lights of the vending machine can
we can make in our energy consumption matically turns off when it is vacant. The reduce their energy usage substantially,
habits to minimize our carbon footprints eco-gadget helps to keep the room en- saving $100 a year in energy consump-
and make a significant impact on our ergy efficient without any monitoring. tion. Plug them into a timing device that
environment as a whole. Be efficient with temperature con- automatically shuts them off during the
Turn off the computer when you leave trol. If your spa does not have a digital business’ closing hours.
for the day. Leaving computers on all thermostat, suggest one. They are cheap Following these suggestions is merely
night costs a minimum of $45 per year and easily pay for themselves in savings. the first step in altering energy consump-
in energy consumption, and that rate is If that is not possible, turn the thermostat tion habits, but they are good ideas for
rising. The computers that cannot be shut down in the winter and up in the summer initiating change. As we reduce our car-
down should at least have their moni- as much as possible while still keeping bon footprint, we become aware of other
tors and printers turned off or placed your clients comfortable. A difference of changes we can make and steadily move
on energy savings during closed hours. just one degree dramatically changes the towards the energy conscious lifestyle we
Only wash full loads of laundry, and amount of energy consumed. should all be striving for. n
use cold water. The dishwasher should Control water consumption. Reduce
also only be run when packed full. It is the amount of water you use in your room Janet McCormick is a licensed estheti-
questionable whether hand washing dish- to save energy and minimize water waste. cian and manicurist, sought-after trainer
es saves any water and energy in com- Then take a look at all of the services the and former spa director who has owned
parison to washing a full load of dishes, so spa provides to determine where drier her own salons. She is a CIDESCO
there is no reason to feel guilty about let- methods can be incorporated while still Diplomat and a certified medical nail
ting the machine take care of that chore. keeping the spa-mode intact. For exam- technician. McCormick has written more
But do turn off the drying cycle. ple, some spas are doing dry pedicures, than 400 highly respected articles in
photo: ©iStockphoto.com/Yanik Chauvin
Close the doors of unused rooms. a non-soak method that still pampers beauty industry magazines and books.
Utility rooms, store rooms, conference and relaxes clients but lowers the ser- She is the co-owner of Medinail Learning
rooms, etc. should be kept closed when vice water consumption by 90 percent. Center, a provider of modular online
they are not in use to reduce their con- Turn off the display lights. Unnec and school courses to train nail tech-
sumption of heat. Lights, of course, essary chronic lighting from vending nicians in safe techniques. She can be
should be left off also. Consider using machines and advertising displays reached at janetgmccormick@aol.com
energy “brains” that keep the light on should be turned off. Shutting off the or 863.273.9134.
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 105
photos courtesy of Serenity Spa
GOING GREEN
FROM THE GROUND UP
THE ULTIMATE REALM
OF SERENITY SPA
IN NORMAN, OK
Page 106 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green spa
BY CASSANDRA RAFUSE
W
ALKING INTO THE ULTIMATE REALM Despite the difficulty of finding earth-friendly construc-
of Serenity Spa in Norman, OK, you are tion materials, Marsh was prepared for the challenge and
immediately transported to a traditional met it head on. “I took it upon myself to take the time to
Southeast Asian homestead, where the research ways to go green,” she says proudly. “I did not hire
windows are shuttered with wooden blinds to block out the a ‘green’ contractor to guide me through the construction
brilliant sunlight and the floors are made of smooth, golden process. The contractors we did have, however, were very
bamboo. In the background, water trickling upon stones can understanding about the fact that we wanted to be green.”
be heard and textured, clay-colored walls surround you in a Relaying this information to the building team early on es-
warm, ageless embrace. tablished the spa’s ecological philosophy, which enabled
The timeless environment is truly the ultimate illusion of Marsh to work as a green project manager responsible for
serenity. It is hard to believe the spa is not even a year old, sourcing the spa’s most important materials.
having just opened their doors in September of 2009. It is not Just from looking at The Ultimate Realm of Serenity’s in-
the youth of the business or its Zen-like décor that is Ultimate door décor, it is hard to determine which materials are eco-
Realm of Serenity’s most endearing quality. Rather, it is the friendly. They are all so beautifully manufactured and work
fact that the spa was conceived entirely as an ecologically- so well within the space that they give no indication of being
sound facility from the initial planning stages. “non-traditional.” The floors are made of bamboo, the fast-
“When the spa was still just an idea written up in a busi- est growing and most renewable woody plant on the planet,
ness plan, it was already determined that it would be an eco- and are affixed with a solvent-free adhesive. The energy ef-
friendly, or green spa,” recalls Monica Marsh, Ultimate Realm ficient ceiling tiles are made of recyclable materials. A tank
of Serenity’s owner and manager. “In this industry, our main free water heater provides hot water on demand, and even
purpose is to restore, enhance and maintain wellness of body, the gorgeous louvered doors, so evocative of Bali, are made
mind and spirit of people and nature as a whole. Contributing up of more than 86 percent recycled content and have been
to the green movement was of incredible importance to us.” coated with a non-hazardous water-based primer. In addition
Throughout history, humanity has always constructed its to the spa’s internal structure, they feature three organic skin
buildings from resources found within local regions. From the care lines, offer locally grown organic foods and have adopted
humblest of huts to the great sandstone pyramids of Giza, a reduce/reuse/recycle program. They actively encourage all
humans have always built with green materials, using nothing staff to participate, which has led several team members to
but manpower and old-fashioned ingenuity. Throughout the introduce certain green practices in their own homes.
centuries we developed advanced building techniques that “I have been thanked by clients for opening a green spa
allowed us to create the soaring Gothic cathedrals and sturdy here in Oklahoma,” Marsh comments. “Green establish-
medieval castles, yet we never compromised the Earth in our ments set great examples for the general public to follow.
pursuit of bigger, more impressive architecture. However, during It creates an awareness that otherwise wouldn’t be there.”
the Victorian era we began to see a shift in building practices Whether opening a new spa or renovating a pre-existing
as the Industrial Age introduced us to manufactured materials. one, it is possible to incorporate eco-materials if you are
Soon, concrete, bricks and glass became commonplace. By the willing to dedicate some extra time to the project. Consider
middle of the twentieth century, steel plastic polymers and en- the following tips to ease the upgrade as much as possible:
gineered fiber boards were the norm on many building sites. Start local. Check with your city or state to see if they
Though clay, stone and wood are still major components have a green initiatives program. Such programs may also
in construction and manufactured materials, the industri- exist independently, sponsored by local businesses or edu-
al processing of these materials leaves a massive carbon cational facilities. They can be a wealth of information about
footprint with each square meter that is built or renovated. what is available in your area.
Energy is expended to produce each kilogram of every type Search the Internet. There is a wealth of information
of building material. Concrete, polystyrene and fiberglass on the Web, and it is definitely the best place to compare
are some of the least earth-friendly materials, but they are materials for both their green quality and their price. Green
found in almost all buildings. websites can help source products and provide ideas to help
The trend towards green building is slowly beginning to establish an Earth-friendly business. The Green Spa Network
take hold. In the last decade, eco-materials have become (GSN) is an organization that promotes sustainability in the
easier to find in Western European countries, and they can spa industry and helps connect eco-conscious clients with
now be purchased at local home renovation centers. As the like-minded spas. The Ultimate Realm of Serenity Spa is a
trend sweeps across the Atlantic, green building materials member of the GSN.
will become more available in the years to come. continues
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 107
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #162 on reader service card
green spa|going green from the ground up
renewable
ECO-FRIENDLY
NATURAL
WORD WISE
DEFINING
“GREEN”
BY TARA MANNA
AS WE BECOME MORE AWARE OF THE IMPACT OUR Organic: Crops produced according to organic stan-
nut oil: ©Dreamstime.com/Olena Yaremova; olive branch: © Onur Ersin/Dreamstime.com; cotton: © Kenji Takeichi/Dreamstime.com; coffee: © Digitalvalley/Dreamstime.com
actions have on the environment and recommit to leaving dards have been raised without the use of chemical pesti-
our children with a beautiful world to enjoy and prosper in, cides. Examples include artificial fertilizers, sludge and hu-
the word “green” has taken on a new meaning. Originally man waste. In addition to crops, meats have been added
associated with an Old English word meaning “to grow,” it to the category, which means the animals they come from
has morphed into various connotations describing inexpe- have been fed natural grains without the help of antibiotics
rience, sickness, envy, money and abundance. These days, or hormones to enhance growth. In the United States the
the term “green” conjures up thoughts of words such as certification of “organic” is allowed only when producers
organic, sustainable, non-toxic, environmentally friendly, adhere to specific standards. Genetic modification does
anti-animal testing and renewable. not meet the standard of organic.
As pioneers in trendsetting, the spa industry is raising In the U.S., federal organic legislation defines three levels
awareness and responding to the global movement. As peo- of organics. Products made entirely with certified organic
ple’s consciousness about what they are putting into their body ingredients and methods may be labeled “100% organic.”
increases and awareness for what is possibly being soaked Those with 95 percent organic ingredients can call themselves
into the bloodstream expands, ingredients are more often organic. Both may display the United States Department of
being scrutinized and carefully observed before a product is Agriculture (USDA) organic seal. A third category, contain-
purchased. One of the most poignant examples that changed ing a minimum of 70 percent organic ingredients, can be
the way consumers thought about what they put on their skin labeled “made with organic ingredients.” Product labels
was the introduction of birth control and nicotine patches. A may also display the logo of the certification body that ap-
small square of Band-Aid type material that adheres to the proved them. Those made with less than 70 percent organic
body and absorbs the hormones or other ingredients into ingredients may not be advertised as organic, and can only
the bloodstream? What a concept! So, if it is possible for in- mention the organic nature of the product’s ingredients in
gredients within a patch to seep into the blood, how about the ingredient statement.
the ingredients in our skin care products and body lotions? As of June 2007, the USDA was considering allowing 38
To gain further insight into the “green craze,” let us first non-organic ingredients to be used in “organic” foods. As
examine the meanings of some of the words we are bom- the demand for organic foods increases, consumers are be-
barded with daily: eco-friendly, organic, renewable, sustain- ing hounded with the term “natural,” which is unregulated
able, non-toxic, environmentally friendly and anti-animal and rather convoluted.
testing. Keep in mind that the majority of these definitions Natural: According to USDA regulations, the term “natu-
are a bit paradoxical at best. ral” may be applied only to products that contain no chemical
Page 110 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
NON-TOXIC
ORGANIC
preservatives or artificial or coloring ingredients—and they with face cradles and perhaps even 4x4 squares. It may be
must be minimally processed, if at all. a challenge at first—but think renewable and reusable here.
Eco-friendly/environmentally friendly: Refers to goods Cotton and hemp are renewable and reusable materials that
and services that inflict minimal harm on the environment. are sturdy and easy to find. That may even cut some of your
Within the U.S., these terms have no federal standard and operational costs. And do not forget the more “natural” bio-
are unregulated; thus they are often utilized to positively degradable laundry detergents.
market goods and services. Light: Utilize natural light for as long as you can during
Renewable: Natural resources may be considered re- the day, and use soy and cotton-wick candles or LED oper-
newable when the rate of reproduction is comparable to ated lights to add ambiance in the treatment rooms. Energy
the rate of consumption. efficient light bulbs can be purchased at any hardware store.
Sustainable: In its environmental definition, sustainable Obtaining them is a positive step towards going green. For a
refers to the natural longevity of ecological support systems; greater immediate investment, look into adding solar panels
human ecosystems and those that it depends upon. The goal to your rooftop and watch your energy bills go down.
within this mentality is to transfer modern society from one Miscellaneous operations: Keep a recycle bin for office
that is on an inevitable path of collapse to one that can “sus- and computer paper, magazines and plastic water bottles
tain” itself indefinitely. as well as distilled water for steamers. Buy washable mugs
Non-toxic: Not producing harm, illness or damage to or glasses instead of plastics that will be discarded. Use
the exposed organism. environmentally friendly cleaning products and essential oil
Against animal testing/not tested on animals: These based air fresheners. Whatever you can do to reduce your
terms have a couple of different meanings. They could sim- waste and consumption of the artificial will move you ahead.
ply mean that the final product was not tested on animals,
or that the company chooses to purchase ingredients from Ingredients
suppliers that do not test on animals. This is another convo- Choose sustainable crops as ingredients in your products and
luted term because at some point, individual ingredients that highlight them in treatments. Seek out dedicated produc-
make up final products may have been tested on animals. ers who are replanting what is being harvested. Connecting
In addition, the U.S. has strict product safety standards that with fair trade farmers enhances your commitment to going
sometimes make it necessary to test on animals. green while developing a holistic partnership with produc-
So, how do you incorporate eco-friendly products into ers. The following is a list of sustainable crop ingredients you
your treatment rooms and spas? Here are a few ideas to get can incorporate into your treatments and spa atmosphere:
you started on your quest for wholesomeness for the sake Coffee: Use as a body exfoliant. The caffeine enhances
of your clients and the environment. lymphatic drainage, the grit of the ground beans exfoliates
beautifully and the aroma awes the senses.
Spa resources Cocoa: A rich antioxidant, cocoa can be used to enhance
Linens: Recycle your disposable habits with linens. Focus more moisturizers or exfoliants, or as a natural treat you can offer
on linens you wash and reuse. You may already be doing this your guests before or after their services. Get creative with
with towels and sheets, however practice those same habits continues
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 111
Olive oil: A fruit oil obtained from the olive tree, olive oil
is rich in antioxidants, vitamin E, vitamin K and both omega
3 and omega 6 fatty acids. Dubbed “liquid gold” by Homer,
this oil is a wonderful humectant and moisturizer that some
people even use directly on their body.
Shea butter (Karite): Made from gathered nuts from the
shea tree, shea butter is an extremely hydrating ingredient
for moisturizers and creams. The tree is based in Africa, so
it is a great ingredient to use to establish Fair Trade partner-
ships with, which enhances and develops your commitment
to the holistic community.
Nut oils: Macadamia, sesame, sunflower, walnut, apri-
cot, hazelnut, hemp seed, kukui, neem, olive, rosehip, wheat
germ—all of these oils have amazing properties and can be
used for different purposes—either alone or as an additive.
Pure essential oils and herbs: Enhance all products with
the holistic and olfactory properties of essential oils.
Aloe vera: The hardy plant is not difficult to grow and
harvest for a few treatments. During the summer, the cool-
ness of the aloe vera gel feels amazing and the healing
properties restore damaged skin. Plus, treat your aloe plant
to organic gardening practices to follow a completely green
commitment.
in your retail boutique to help support and educate clients professionals worldwide, alongside
about the great natural resource. Juju Rodrigues. The intention of the
Seaweed: The ocean plant can grow up to a foot per organization is to support, define
day when the oceans are calm and swells are not disturbing and increase the quality, expecta-
the underwater forests. A resource rich in vitamins, miner- tions and professional successes of
als and trace elements, seaweed has long been used as an the esthetician. Please visit www.aestheticpros.com or email
ingredient in masks, creams, bath soaks and more. info@aestheticpros.com.
Page 112 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
green spa|news ecofriendly skin and spa products and therapies
DAYTIME RENEWAL
Ossetra’s Anti-Oxidant Day Crème
revitalizes and nourishes skin, making
it supple, radiant and luminous. Made
up of iceberg water with a pH of 5 and
age fighting antioxidants, Anti-Oxidant
HOLISTIC HYDRATION Day Crème contains no toxins, parabens
The Sensiderm Stress Protect Cream and is 100 percent natural and organic,
from Dr. med Christine Schrammek says the company. www.ossetra.ca
is a great product to offer those
clients who suffer from extremely
dry skin. It is a day and night
emollient cream for dry and irritated
skin types that contains precious NATURAL NOURISHMENT
active ingredients that immediately Feed skin with the Herb Rich Oil from
diminish stress symptoms and De La Terre Skincare®, a serum that
help reduce the skin’s sensitivity to goes beyond moisturizing the skin.
external irritants, says the company. The creative composition of herbs
The conscientious cream contains protects and restores injured skin, reduces
no perfumes, alcohol, parabens, inflammation, manages oil and replenishes
coloring agents, PEG derivatives or chronic dehydration, says the company.
mineral oils. www.schrammek.de www.delaterreskincare.com
GENTLE RUBDOWN
Bio-Origin® treatment formulas contain
optimal doses of state-of-the-art ingredients
and are derived from natural plant and
mineral sources. The refreshing Silky
photo: © Onur Ersin/Dreamstime.com
MORE NEWS
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 113
green spa|news
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green spa|news
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image|brows that wow
by Aliesh Pierce
N
OTHING COMPLETES YOUR “Using the apex as the pivot point,
client’s face like a pair of well rotate the stencil so that it is in align-
groomed brows. All aspiring ment with the brow line,” he instructs
estheticians learn about brow dimen- his students.
sions in school, so we are familiar with
the general rules. The inner corner of Different strokes
the brow should start in alignment with The follicle of Asian hair is implanted
the outer edge of the nostril. The arch in the dermis at a perpendicular an-
should sit directly outside the iris, and gle, which causes hair to grow straight.
brows should taper off in a diagonal line Create the perfect shape by trimming
with the nose. As a new esthetician, it under the brow line. Try using an off
can be challenging to master the tech- black powder for a soft look.
nique of sliding the wax strip up to the African brows are often curly. Use
desired edge to achieve that perfectly caution when trimming hairs, as they
clean line. However, if your spa offers tend to curl back. Use a dark brown
professional makeup services, that is powder and set with a brow fixative.
just the beginning. Your new mission is Nordic brows often have small, fair
to subtly correct those little flaws that stragglers. These should be waxed or re- photography by Neil A. France
may not be noticeable on a bare face. moved with pointy tweezers. Light taupe
To complete a professional makeup ap- pencils work best for Nordic brows. ible with client’s shape over the brow
plication, you need to have an arsenal of Whether you are using a pencil or Step 3: Dip angle brush in darkest
tools on hand so you are prepared for powder, these simple steps ensure that color to line the front area
any client that walks through your door. your client walks out of your spa with Step 4: Fill in front end of
My experience working with famed the perfect brow. stencil with lighter color
female impersonator Kevin Aviance Step 5: Pivot stencil at arch
taught me that brows are sisters, not Freehand technique to align with tail end
twins. No pair is perfect. It is the profes- Step 1: Brush brow into place Step 6: Reinforce brow with
sional’s job to balance the brows without Step 2: Outline the lower edge to a straight line
making them look unnatural. The rule reinforce brow A well-balanced brow has the ef-
is to make the brows slightly lighter for Step 3: Choose either a thin pencil or fect of a non-surgical face lift. Your cli-
clients with dark hair. For those with light brow powder with a small angle brush ent is sure to hear “oohs” and “aahs”
hair, go a shade or two darker. You also Step 4: Lightly feather small hairlike and “wows” about her brows. n
need to take the face shape into con- marks into the arch
sideration, making small adjustments to Step 5: Draw a thin, straight line Aliesh Pierce is a makeup artist, li-
help balance bone structure as much as connecting the arch and tail end censed esthetician, educator and free-
possible. While the current trend leans Step 6: Brush a fixative into brows to lance writer. She has created stunning
towards fuller brows, not all of them are hold hairs in place looks for Milan runways, New York-
capable of growing out. based music videos and Los Angeles
Robert Hensley, the director of ed- Pro tips for red carpets, as well as print work in
ucation at Sormé, suggests that brow stenciling kits several countries. Her personal mis-
stencils are meant as a guide that should Step 1: Brush brows into place sion is to “help women create their
be adjusted to fit your client’s face. Step 2: Hold the stencil most compat- own definition of beauty.”
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 115
eye
ENHANCEMENT
fuller, thicker, sultry lashes
The difference between prescription and over-the-counter
products is not necessarily in the price, but rather the avail-
ability, packaging, ease of use—and depending upon the
ingredients—extent of performance. Your clients will appre-
ciate the relative ease of using over the counter products, as
Professional lash enhancement products include a multitude state that the analog appears to have an affect on the
of peptides, vitamins A, B, C and E, phosphatidylcholine, inflammatory response, which we can now blame for a
growth factors, stem cells and botanicals such as white lu- number of aging issues, including hair loss. Survey of
pine, sweet almond seed extract, chamomile, green tea, Opthalmology reports that it also appears to be able to
wheat protein, cinnamon bark extract, horse chestnut, white induce the anagen phase in telogen phase follicles, as
tea leaf extract and copper. well as prolong the anagen phase of hair cycles.
Page 116 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
photo: Image Source/Getty Images image
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 117
image|eye enhancement
June
5•6•7
ma
k
e-
up
Exhibit Floor Open
June 6 & 7
photo:
i make you
beautiful
age
a ss
m
Register
on or before
June 5th
for a $10
photo:
savings! sothys
tic
Orlando/Orange County
s
Convention Center
Orlando, Florida
i-aging
an t
photo: biomaris
premiereorlando
image
by Chantal Savinon-Soto
healthy hue
W
ITH SUMMER ALMOST and highlighting foundation is as fol-
here, tanned, healthy look- lows: Go one or two shades darker than
ing skin is one of our top your client’s normal skin tone for con-
requests from clients. As professional touring and one to two shades lighter
makeup artists, we should be knowl- for highlighting.
edgeable about how to create this look
without making our clients look like the Contour:
oompa loompas from the movie Willy • The top of the forehead, where
Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. The the hairline meets the skin
first thing we must understand is the • Underneath the cheekbones
meaning of the phrase “lit-from-within • The sides of the nose
glow.” It is that healthy, dewy look you • The upper part of the bridge
take on when you have been graciously of the nose
kissed by the sun, perhaps in a fabu- • Underneath the tip of
lous sunny place while on vacation. the nose to shorten it
Clients often request that look, which is
a “must” among top celebrities, as one Apply highlighter:
can see from looking at any magazine • Under the eyes
cover. Follow these easy steps to cre- • On the lower part of the nose
ate that ooh la-la glow for your clients. • In the middle of the forehead
• Underneath the brow bone
Step 1: Prep the skin • At the center of the chin
Begin with fresh, clean and moistur-
ized skin. When skin is moist, makeup Step 3: Foundation
goes on smoother and sits better on the Using a separate brush, I applied a
face. At this point, I have prepped skin thin layer of cream beige foundation
with moisturizer, eye cream and primer. all over Angelina’s face, which I thor-
oughly blended with the contouring
Step 2: Conceal, and highlighting to create a smooth
contour and highlight and seamless finish.
The purpose of concealing, contouring
and highlighting is to build the face. Step 4: Blush,
Apply a liquid concealer under the eyes eyes, powder and lips
to cover dark circles using a cream vari- Blush: I applied a peachy-pink blush
ety, which has a heavier consistency to in a circular motion on the apples of
cover blemishes and scars. A general the cheeks.
rule of thumb for selecting contouring continues
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 121
Eyes: To enhance Angelina’s beau- a line across the top of her lid, connect-
tiful blue-green eyes, I applied neutral ing it with the lower lash line.
tones. I filled in her eyebrows with a A light beige eyeshadow is a great
taupe pencil to complement her blonde color for the brow bone to “bring out”
hair. A wash of a shimmery salmon the area before lining the inner rim of
toned eyeshadow is applied all over her eyes with a black pencil and curling
the eyelid (avoiding the brow bone), the lashes. False lashes add some glam-
followed by a medium brown matte our to the look, and a final application
shadow in the crease and underneath of two coats of mascara to the root of
the lower lashes to create a soft smoky her natural lashes. I do not recommend
effect. Using a black liquid liner, I drew applying mascara to false lashes, as it
creates a very unnatural affect.
Chantal Savinon-
Soto is a board
certified esthe-
tician, makeup
artist, educator,
speaker and con-
tributing beauty
expert with more
than 13 years of
experience. She is the founder and
owner of Chantal Sauvignon, Inc. in
Miami, Florida. She specializes in mul-
timedia, production, commercial, and
print. To contact Chantal please visit her
website www.chantalsauvignon.com,
email chantal@chantalsauvignon.com
or call 786.877.2712.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #104 on reader service card
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image |news
spa|news makeup, tools
body, equipment and trends
and supply products
SMOOTH
ENHANCEMENT
Improve your clients’ brows
with the Fountain of Youthful
Color Eyebrow Mousse, the
latest innovation from blinc. BRAND NAME
The one-of-a-kind novelty TRANSITION
cosmetic provides water-resistant Professional lash product
color, fills in sparse areas and line Xtended Beauty
tames brows as effectively as has transitioned into
a gel. In addition to providing the new Reese Robert
long-lasting smudge-proof Beauty Collection. In
performance, the mousse addition to strip lashes and professional lash extensions,
provides anti-aging treatment the Reese Robert Collection also includes professional
to the skin beneath the brow. beauty tools and high quality cosmetic brushes. In
www.blincinc.com the upcoming months, Reese Robert Beauty will be
launching several new product lines including professional
strip lashes, scissors, tweezers, professional cosmetic
brushes and skin care products. The quality of Xtended
Beauty products will be continued under the new brand
name, says the company. www.Reeserobert.com
MORE NEWS
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BEAUTY BOOSTER
GloProfessional recently part-
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a luminous and flawless finish that
pants received a makeover and learned how to apply false eyelashes
contains natural sunscreen with both
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to mask skin blemishes, scars, burns and bruising.
Made with 100 percent natural
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www.AfterglowCosmetics.com
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WEST | CENTRAL | EAST | CANADA
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Page 126 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • May 2010
Skin Biology and Chemical Skin Biology and MAY 14
Peel Seminar (students) Chemical Peel Seminar Bio-Therapeutic Institute
by PCA Skin. by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. of Technology Continuing
Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN. Education Bio-Oxygen™
877.PCA.SKIN. by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA.
Skin Biology and Chemical Peel MAY 11 800.976.2544.
Seminar (professionals and students) Advanced Treatment
by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. Technologies Seminar MAY 16
877.PCA.SKIN. by PCA Skin. Skin Biology
Scottsdale, AZ. & Chemical Peel (students)
MAY 3 877.PCA.SKIN. by PCA Skin. Ontario, CA.
Skin Biology and Chemical Bio-Therapeutic Institute of 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Seminar Technology Contining Education
by PCA Skin. Bio-Ultimate Platinum®
Central
Albuquerque, NM. by Bio-Therapeutic.
877.PCA.SKIN. Seattle, WA.
Skin Biology and Chemical 800.976.2544.
Peel Seminar
by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. MAY 12 MAY (ONGOING)
877.PCA.SKIN. Bio-Therapeutic Institute Advanced Chemical Peels
of Technology Continuing with Skin Assessment
MAY 3-5 Education Bio-Synthesis™ by A Natural Difference.
Tibetan Shirodhara by Bio-Therapeutic. Dallas, TX.
by Melanie and Robert Sachs. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
San Luis Obispo, CA. 800.976.2544. Alexandria Professional
866-303-3321. Body Sugaring Class
MAY 13 by Cindy Falke.
MAY 10 Bio-Therapeutic Institute Amarillo, TX.
Skin Biology and Chemical of Technology Continuing 800.728.0270.
Peel Seminar Education bt-GEAR™ Alexandria Professional
by PCA Skin. by Bio-Therapeutic. Body Sugaring Class
Salt Lake City, UT. Seattle, WA. by Staci Nelson.
877.PCA.SKIN. 800.976.2544. Canyon, TX. 800.687.8427.
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 127
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calendar|east|canada
Canada
How to Build the
MAY 5 Successful Business
Spa Menu and Marketing 101 by Biodroga.
by Biodroga. New York, NY. New York, NY.
800.932.0168. 800.932.0168. MAY (ONGOING)
Alexandria Professional
MAY 10 MAY 21 Body Sugaring Certification Class
Biodroga Products Knowledge Ingredient & Daily Care by Tina Lehman.
by Biodroga. New York, NY. Product Knowledge Seminar Calgary, AB. 888.457.8427.
800.932.0168. (professionals & students) Alexandria Professional Body
by PCA Skin. Sugaring Certification Class
MAY 11 Atlanta, GA. by Tina Lehman. Vancouver, BC.
Acne Treatment 877.PCA.SKIN. 888.457.8427.
by Biodroga.New York, NY. Skin Biology Alexandria Professional
800.932.0168. & Chemical Peel Body Sugaring
by PCA Skin. Certification Class
MAY 15 Birmingham, AL. by Lisa Dicenso.
Skin Biology and 877.PCA.SKIN. Welland, ON.
Chemical Peel Seminar 866.800.7565.
by PCA Skin. MAY 22 Alexandria Professional
Charlotte, NC. Shavasana Eyelash Body Sugaring
877.PCA.SKIN. Extensions Level I Certification Class
Training Course by Cathie Neundorf.
MAY 16 by Shavasana Welland, ON.
Shavasana Eyelash Eyelash Extensions. 877.885.1440.
Extensions Level I Washington, D.C.
Training Course 866.544.3553.
by Shavasana Skin Biology
Eyelash Extensions.
Philadelphia, PA.
& Chemical Peel
by PCA Skin.
TRADE SHOWS
866.544.3553. Atlanta, GA.
Sponsored by Les Nouvelles
Skin Biology 877.PCA.SKIN.
Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope
& Chemical Peel
(students) MAY 23
by PCA Skin. Skin Biology The International Congress of
New York, NY. & Chemical Peel Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2010
877.PCA.SKIN. (students) May 16-17 • Arlington, TX
Danni Boucher: 1.800.471.0229
Skin Biology & Chemical by PCA Skin.
Peel (students) Atlanta, GA. The International Congress of
by PCA Skin. 877.PCA.SKIN. Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2010
West Palm Beach, FL. September 25-27 • Long Beach, CA
Danni Boucher: 1.800.471.0229
877.PCA.SKIN. MAY 24
Medic Facial for The International Congress of
MAY 17 Ultra Sensitive Skin Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2010
Body Treatment Anti-Cellulite by Biodroga. October 24-25 • Philadelphia, PA
by Biodroga. New York, NY. New York, NY. Danni Boucher: 1.800.471.0229
800.932.0168. 800.932.0168.
May 2010 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 129
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