Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Features
39 How To Build A Torsion Box
It's amazingly strong, light and cheap!
60 Office Cabinet
Store offic~ necessities in style.
16 Thrifty Woodworker
Making a marking knife from a band saw blade,
making a band clamp from a rubber band and
string, practicing on a turning's waste area, mak-
ing a corner clamping jig, using a featherboard
to index narrow rip cuts, plumbing with a water
jug, turning a planer knife into a drawknife, and
using soda caps as standoffs.
20 Well-Equipped Shop
23 new tools you should know about.
30 My Shop
It's as comfortable as a favorite tool.
36 Tool Nut
Old machines often have advanced features.
76 Tool Talk
New tablesaw blade guards are easy to live with.
82 Oops!
A cabinet's back, put on the front.
send invoices and renewals with the American Editor Tom Caspar
Associate Editor Tim Johnson
Woodworker name, and payments should only
Contributing Editors Brad Holden
be made to American Woodworker. David Radtke
If you have any questions about your invoice, Andrew Zoellner
ART" DESIGN
Creative Director Vern Johnson
Director of Photography Jason Zentner
READY-To-USE
MILESCRAFT
@
-- . . SAFETY ACCESSORIES
MILESCRAFT.COM FOR EVERY SHOP
SPEND MORE TIME MAKING CUTS, LESS TIME PREPARING FOR THEM
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From the Editor's Desk
WOODWORKING
Q&A
Ask a Question
Get an Answer
Online at AmericanWoodworker.com
Randy Johnson
'I
orsionB~
To see plans for a workbench using a torsion-box top, go to: For an X-ray look inside Greene & Greene furniture, go
www.AmericanWoodworker.com/145/TomsTorsion BoxBen ch to: www.AmericanWoodworker.com/145/GreeneAndGreene
~
1. Veritas® Miniature Shoulder Plane 05P80.01 $29.50 2. Miter Hook 50N37.01 $8.95 3. Folding Dozuki 60T56.01 $29.50
4. Veritas® Beading Tool & 6 Cutters 05P04.50 $69.00 5. Spill Plane 15P15.01 $49.00 6. Universal Adapter & Bit Set 17K02.05 $10.90
7. Pocket Marking Gauge 15N02.01 $19.50 8. Knife Sharpener 70M46.50 $15.50 9. Veritas® Imp. Grad. Micro-Adjust Wheel
Marking Gauge 05N35.20 $38.50 10. Mini Dynamo Flashlight 45K18.47 $8.50 11. Veritas® Side Rabbet Plane 05P44.01 $129.00
12. Painter's Pyramid, pkg. of 10 88K58.70 $6.50 13. Veritas® Small Shoulder Plane, A2 Blade 05P47.01 $169.00
14. Veritas® Premium Dovetail Saw 05T05.01 $65.00 15. Veritas® Low-Angle Block Plane, A2 Blade 05P22.01 $139.00
To order these products, call or visit us online. You can request a copy of our free 1-800-683-8170
gift catalog or browse it online. A gift card from Lee Valley is always welcome. www.leevalley.com
Two-Screw Technique
AS HARD AS I TRY to avoid it, every now and SANDPAPER
then I need to mill a small part on the router
table. I've learned the hard way that you should
never hold that part by hand, for three good rea-
sons: first, your fingers would be way too close to
the bit; second, the part makes very little contact
with the fence; and third, small parts can easily
become projectiles.
So here's how I do it: I lock the small part in
the jaws of a handscrew. To make a broader bear-
ing surface, I clamp a second handscrew around
the first one, adjusting its position so that its tips
bear against the fence.
John English
Toe Space
cuts a bit extra-long to get a precise
Router Jig corner-overcuts won't affect how
CUTTING TOE SPACES on the the jig works. Add 2" wide hard- opening first with a saber saw.
sides of base cabinets is lightning wood stop blocks on the front and Clamp the jig to the workpiece and
fast with this router jig. Make the bottom edges of the jig. Center the finish the job using a router with a
jig from a 3/4" x 18" x 30" piece of blocks on the plywood, so you can top-bearing pattern bit. The router
plywood. Layout a toe space on one position the jig on either a right leaves a rounded corner, but that's
corner of the plywood, then cut it or left cabinet side. To make a toe easily squared up with a chisel.
out on the tablesaw. Make the rip space in a cabinet's side, cut a rough Mitch Palmer
lIIin I P nn Iy ni
Schaumburg Rockier Woodworking and Hardware Pittsburgh Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
253 West Golf Road (847) 310-0447 7402 McKnight Road (412) 364-7751
Williamsport Hermance Machine Co.
In I n www.hermance.com
Indianapolis Rockier Woodworking and Hardware 178 Campbell St (866) 326-8131
8452 Castelton Corner Dr. (317) 578-9750
Texas
K n Arlington Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
Derby Big Tool Store www.bigtoolstore.com 4624 S. Cooper St (817) 417-0070
4640 E63rd. St South (800) 788-6505 Houston Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
Mine 3265 Southwest Freeway (713) 622-6567
South Portland Rockier Woodworking and Hardware Mesquite Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
200 Gorham Road (207) 761-4402 18661 Interstate Hwy. 635 (972) 613-8848
San Antonio Otto Dukes Machinery
M' seachuselts www.ottodukes.com
Cambridge Rockier Woodworking and Hardware 600 San Pedro Ave (800) 333-8537
2154 Massachusetts Ave. (617) 497-1136
Fall River Burns Inc www.burnstools.com Washin t n
350 Mariano S Bishop Blvd. (800) 341-2200 Seattle Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
3823 Stone Way North (206) 634-3222
Michigan Tukwila Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
Royal Oak Rockier Woodworking and Hardware 345 Tukwila Parkway (206) 244-916
29918 Woodward Ave. (248) 543-5110
West Vir ini
Mi uri Princeton Virginia Hardware
St. Louis Rockier Woodworking and Hardware 1411 N Walker St (304) 425-3570
11977 Saint Charles Rock Rd. (314) 209-1116
Wi con in
Minn 0 Milwaukee Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
Burnsville Rockier Woodworking and Hardware 845 North Mayfair Road (414) 774-1882
2020 W County Rd. 42 (952) 892-7999
Maplewood Rockier Woodworking and Hardware Wy min
1935 Beam Ave. (651) 773-5285 Casper Woodworker's Supply www.woodworker.com
Minneapolis Rockier Woodworking and Hardware 1108 North Glenn Road (800) 645-9292
3025 Lyndale Ave S. (612) 822-3338
Minnetonka Rockier Woodworking and Hardware
12995 Ridgedale Dr. (952) 542-0111
M nt na Web Order
Bozeman Four Corners Hardware Rockler.com
www.fourcornershardware.com Routertabledepot.com
177 Garden Drive (888) 994-TOOL Tylertool.com
Thrifty Woodworker Handy Tips for Saving Money
Junk G m
Mlrklng Knlf
OLD BANDSAW BLADES can eas-
ily be recycled into useful marking
or carving knives. One blade nets
you a slew of small pieces. Use a tin
snip to cut off a piece of the blade,
grind off the teeth, and then grind
the profile. Quench the blade in
water quite often so you don't burn
. it; a thin pie~e of metal can heat up String B nd CI mp
very fast. WFilbe MAKIN(j A liA§e f€lF a W€l€l€h~A Va§@/ I ~a~ t€l ~Iu@ UfJ a §ffiall €l€ta~=
Next, file or grind the cutting €lAal §~afJ@: I ffia~@ t~i§ §iffi~l@ §aA~ €laffifJ ff€lffi a ~i@€@ €If §tFiAij aA~ a FU§=
edge's bevel. Make a two-part han- §@F §aA~: I=I@F@/§ ~€lW it w€lfk§! fiF§t, ti@ €lA@ @A~ €If t~@ §tFiAij t€l iR@ W§§@F
dle from scrap wood and fasten the §aA~ aA~ 1€l€lfJ t~@ §tFiAij af€lUA~ tR@ w€lfkfJi@€@i fl@ltt, FUfl tR@ §tFiAij tRf€lUij~
blade using epoxy or rivets. Finally, t~@ €ltR@F @A~ €If iR@ FU§§@F ~afl~ aA~ ~ulI it tiij~t: WR@fl )I€lU ~€!t t~@ Fiij~t
hone the edge. affi€lUflt €If t@fl§i€lfl, €Iaffi~ i~@ l€l€l§@ @A~ €If t~@ §tFiflij: F€lF ffi€lf@ €Iaffi~ifl~
Robbie Dotson fJF@§§UF@/ U§@ ffi€lF@ FU§§@F §aA~§
Turning rUnt-UP
I CAN'T STAND THROWING AWAY good
wood. When I'm turning a goblet or any other
object, I don't leave the waste areas blank. I
pick up a gouge or a skew and use the waste to
perfect my turning techniques.
Bob Patros
E-mail yourtiptothriftywoodworker@americanwoodworker.comorsendittoAmericanWoodworker.ThriftyWoodworker.1285CorporateCenterDrive.Suitel80.Eagan.MN
55121. Submissions can't be retumed and become our property upon acceptance and payment We may edit submissions and use them in all print and electronic media,
nir·T8:h 15lHH i
1050 Mnx ClM 12"
Remote ClJllrol
$,~~SJlL
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3HP OusHorce
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~500MaxCfM
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69"
I
The Well-Equipped Shop Our Pick of the Latest Tools
Pro Slider
GENERAL INTERNATIONAL
HAS REDESIGNED their ,
Excalibur sliding table for its
20th anniversary.
First and foremost, they
made the table more solid
and stable by beefing up the
cross bracing and adding an
extra leg. A new brace bolts
the entire table to the back of
your saw. To compensate for uneven
floors, they designed the legs to be
easily adjustable.
The new design ofthe sliding bracket has been rede- (UHMW) runners used in previous
quick-mount bracket adds substan- signed for easier mount- versions. Brushes are also mounted
tial crosscutting capacity, which is ing- it's now two pieces. The brack- with the bearings to keep the sliding
the major benefit of a sliding table. et stays permanently attached to mechanism clean.
You can crosscut or miter stock up the saw and allows for the table to Getting the table parallel to the
to 49" wide with the fence at the be detached and reattached with- tablesaw is easier, too. On\=e the
front of the table. You can cut stock out readjustment, which is great for table is level, you simply loosen the
up to 72" wide with the fence posi- smaller shops that need a sliding bolts holding the fence in place,
tioned at the rear of the table. table but don't have the space to move the table into alignment, and
General has also added positive keep it set up. retighten the bolts.
stops for the fence at 15°, 22-112°, 30° Problems caused by debris wear- Source: General International, www.
and 45° to make setting up miter cuts ing down the sliding mechanism are general.ca, (514) 326-1161, Excalibur Pro-
quicker and easier. eliminated by using bearings instead Series Sliding Table, 50-SLT60P, $1380.
The main table attachment of the Ultra-High Molecular Weight
••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Powerful, Portable Dust Collector
THE GRIZZLY 1-1/2 HP CYCLONE Dust Collector isa great combination of power and
portability. Rated at 866 CFM, the unit provides excellent air flow for a portable unit.
The great thing about a cyclone design is that heavy chips and dust are separated
from the fine particles. Only the fine particles go through the impeller to the filter,
which allows the motor and impeller to operate more efficiently.
One nice feature of this unit is that you can place a disposable bag in the dust
barrel. That's made possible by a small hose that connects the barrel to the cyclone.
Suction from the hose keeps the bag secured and fully open. To remove the bag,
simply unlatch the barrel, wheel it out from under the unit, and lift the bag out. It's
much easier than trying to dump a 30-gallon steel drum into a trash can.
Another handy feature is the manual handle for cleaning the .2 micron pleated
filter. A quarter turn of the handle shakes dust from the filter and keeps it clear of
suction-slowing debris. The pleated filter provides more surface area for capturing
fine particles than standard-sized filter bags-and in a smaller space.
Running at only 65 dB, this unit is perfect for woodworkers whose families like
peace and quiet. And, at just under 6' tall, it's small enough to fit in the basement, too.
Source: Grizzly Industrial, www.grizzly.com. (360) 647-0801, 1-1/2 HP Cyclone Dust Collector,
G0703, $825.
Souped-Up
Bandsaw
THE LAGUNA 14X14 SUV
(Souped-Up Version) is a deluxe
14" bandsaw that's the culmi-
nation of Laguna's 25 years of
experience in manufacturing
bandsaws.
It offers an impressive
14" of resaw capacity (most
14" bandsaws have a 6" or
12" capacity). With a 3 hp
motor, it has all the extra
power you need for resaw-
ing wide boards. It's also
loaded with helpful fea-
tures like a rack and pinion
mechanism to tilt the table
(assisted by a gas cylinder), a
quick release for blade tension,
and a foot brake that also turns
off the saw.
The saw weighs 380 Ibs. and
has a 35-1/2" high cast-iron table
that is 15" square. It accepts a
125" blade up to 1" wide, has a
throat clearance of 13-1/4" and
comes with a high-quality fence.
Source: Laguna Tools, www.lagu-
natools.com, (800) 234-1976, 14x14
SUV 14" Bandsaw, MBANDl44200,
$1,495.
Dedicated Blades
for Better Cuts
THE DEWALT PRECISION TRIM
SAW BLADE LINE features six
10" thin-kerf blades, and most are
designed for a specific job. We had a
chance to try out each one and felt
spoiled. It's a treat to use a blade that's
been engineered to perform one task
better than any other.
The 24-toorh blade is great for rip-
ping. The 40-tooth blade is a general-
purpose tablesaw blade. The 50-tooth
ATB+R blade is a combination rip/
crosscut blade made for tablesaws.
The 60-tooth ATB blade is designed
for smooth crosscutting on table or
miter saws. The 80-tooth ATB blade is
designed for fine finish work on a table
or miter saw. The 80-tooth KG blade
is designed for non-ferrous metals,
plastics and fine trim on a table or miter
High-Capacity Tool-Actuated Switch saw.
TOOL-ACTUATED VACUUMS are very convenient, but most tool-actu- All of these blades have a laser-cut
ated vacs have a 15-amp limit (the vac and the tool can't use more than hardened steel plate that allows for
15 amps combined). This means you can't use tool-actuated vacuums fast, smooth cutting with minimal
with power-hungry tools, such as a 3 hp router or a tablesaw. This unit is material waste, according to DeWalt.
different-it contains Increased vibration dampening comes
two 12-amp circuits from expansion slots and harmonic
(and two power slots cut into the body of each blade.
cords), so you can run This optimized plate design helps to
a vacuum and the eliminate blade flex and makes the
power tool on differ- blade quieter.
ent circuits in your The blades' teeth have more car-
shop without worry- bide than standard blades, which
ing about overload- allows for more re-sharpenings. The
ing the switch. blades are also protected with an anti-
Source: MBright stick coating that decreases heat and
Tools Inc., www.iVac- friction, resulting in cleaner cuts.
Switch.com, (613) DeWalt also makes some of these
826-2200, iVac Switch, blades in 8-1/2" and 12" sizes.
$39.50.
Source: DeWalt, www.dewalt.com. (800) 433-
9258; 10" Precision Trim Saw Blades, $30-$60.
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Inexpensive Shop Assistant
MOST OF US KNOW all to well the hassles of working with
large sheets of plywood. You get home from the lumber-
yard, drag your sheet into your shop and lean it against the
wall. When it comes time to rip that sheet into usable pieces,
you drag the piece over to your saw, somehow maneuver it
on to the table, start ripping and hope for the best.
Gorilla Gripper's Leg-Up makes life just a little easier. It
provides extra support in just the right place. Put your sheet
onto the Leg-Up, swing it onto the table and you're set to
go. The Leg-Up then drops slowly to its original position.
We found it really handy for cutting numerous sheets of
plywood. It attaches easily to your saw's table or fence rail
and is easy to remove so it's not in the way when you don't
need it.
Source: Gorilla Gripper, www.gorillagripper.com. (800) 423-5008, Leg-
Up, 58008, $49.95.
leighjigs.com 800-663-8932
The Well-Equipped Shop continued
Handy Drafter
THE FLAT LYING TRAMMEL SET from
Trusty Guide M.Power Tools is a simple design that's
MILESCRAFT'S TURNLOCK CIRCLE/EDGE GUIDE is a great, inex- quite useful for layouts. It's comprised of
pensive way to cut circles, dados and grooves with a router. It's two two heads that attach to any standard metal
guides in one. I found the circle guide surprisingly helpful for cut- ruler or square. The ruler stays in a horizontal
ting short arcs on small pieces and for making circular table tops. position, making it easier to draw circles and
The edge gUide allows you to cut grooves and dados. When parts straight lines.
are too large to cut on a router table, this is the way to go. If you don't It's more versatile than a compass for
have an edge guide for your router, we'd certainly recommend one- draWing circles because the size of your circle
and this guide will fit most any router. is limited only by the length of your ruler.
To use the device, you remove the baseplate from your router If you replace the pencil with the included
and install Milescraft's universal base (it's included with the Circle/ cutting blade, you can cut circles out of card
Edge Guide). This base then snaps right into the Circle/Edge Guide; stock or veneer.
no tools are required. It's a very convenient system. Leaving the Another handy use is drawing parallel
universal base on your router means that you can quickly go from lines. Attach one head to your square and
routing edge profiles to cutting circles and back to edge profiles you can draw a line parallel to the edge of
again, all using the your board simply by running the square
same interchange- along the board's edge. Or, you could put
able parts. pencils in both heads to draw two lines par-
Source: Milescrah, www. allel with each other.
milescrah.com, (847) Source: M.Power Tools, www.m-powertools.com.
683-9200,TurnLock (613) 525-3328, Complete Flat Lying Trammel Set,
Circle/Edge Guide, $19.99.
#1203, $34.99.
rrlie V{timate in Wood Carving! Give your small shop the rools it needs to be competitive - withour bteaking
your budget.
THOUSANDS OF USES!
Call: 505-948-0571 .shopB9L 888·680-4466
www.shopbottools.com
www.RADARCARVE.net What will you make today? info@shopbottools.com
The Well-Equipped Shop continued
One Battery-
Many Tools
RYOBI HAS COMBINED THE LONG-
LASTING POWER of lithium-ion batteries
with a line of handy gadgets for woodworkers
and hobbyists. All of the tools are based around the
Tek4 battery, a 4v lithium-ion rechargeable battery just 3"
long and 1" in diameter. The Tek4 battery outlasts up to 6,000
AA alkaline batteries and has over 2,000 recharge cycles, according to Ryobi.
The line includes the Self-Leveling Plumb Cross Laser, Professional Laser
Distance Measure, Professional Digital Multimeter, Infrared Thermometer,
DuraShot 8 MP Digital Camera, Motion Sensing Alarm, Digital Key Lock Box,
LED Flashlight, Audio Plus Noise Suppression Headphones, Portable Power
pack and a wall charger, rapid charger and a USB-powered charger. We liked
the digital camera and noise suppression headphones the best.
The digital camera is handy for taking snapshots in the shop. It's durable
and well protected, so you
don't have to worry about dust
getting into the controls. And,
at 8 mega pixels, it has plenty
of resolution to show off the
details of your handiwork. The
noise suppression headphones
are also quite nice for the shop.
They reduce outside noise up to
25 dB, but still let you listen to
your tunes via a 1/8" jack.
Source: Ryobi, www.ryobitools.com.
(800) 525-2579, $11.97 - $149.
•••••• •••••••••
Mobile Cyclone
LAGUNA'S 2 HP MOBILE Cyclone
Dust Collector combines the
benefits of a cyclone with the
portability needed for a work-
shop without a central dust col-
lection system.
Cyclone collection separates wood particles and dust from the air
_stream before going to the pleated cartridge filter. Dust and debris are col-
lected in a 29-gallon metal collection drum which has a quick release and its
own casters for quick and easy emptying.
A motorized filter cleaner automatically shakes the filter after each use, keeping
the filter clean and clear of suction-robbing debris. The unit comes standard with
a remote control so you can start the machine from anywhere in the shop. It's also
relatively quiet, rated at 74 dB, protecting your lungs and your hearing.
Source: Laguna Tools, www.lagunatools.com. (800) 234-1976, Mobile Cyclone Dust Collector,
MDC0550-0145, $1,695.
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CREATE velvet wood surfaces' RENOVATE furniture' POLISH SILVER & remove rust· REPAIR distressed surfaces' REMOVE PAINT on wood & metal
Guinevere® is proving to be the FINISHING TOOL THE SECRET IS THE "FLEX:' Guinevere®
OF CHOICE for more than sculpture and wood r.:~l4:~~~~r--7c sanders can easily flex to hug the shape
turning. DO-/T-YOURSELFER'S have discovered of any surface. Get an incredibly smooth finish
endless new uses in their home and business! and eliminate hours of laborious hand finishing.
Rural
Shop
HAVING BEEN A WOODWORKER
for well over fifty years, I knew what
I wanted in a shop: an ample assem-
bly area with plenty of natural light
and my tools close at hand.
As I live on a small farm, my shop
also had to provide room to work
on my farm equipment and allow
occasional welding and metal fabri-
cating. But beyond its functionality, and five wooden-frame windows that projects from local woods, some of
I wanted my shop to feel more like a were reclaimed from an old school which I harvest right here on the
favorite tool than a building. building bathe the main shop area farm. I send the lumber to the local
My shop is constructed of native with light. This main area measures sawmill and then sticker it in the
rough-cut lumber, much of which 720 sq. ft. and is complemented by a attic above the shop. Depending on
came from my own 55-acre farm. 9 ft. ceiling. I use the ventilated attic the species and board thickness, it
Its board and batten style exterior is space above the main shop primarily takes one or two years to dry to an
topped with a metal roof. Wooden for drying lumber. acceptable moisture level.
sliding doors provide easy access, I build most of my furniture My main shop area has an imagi-
nary divider down the middle. I do for woodworking. One bench has
most of my woodworking in the half two woodworking vises, but no tool
where the workbenches are located. tray, so I can keep it clutter-free. The Tell Us About
All of the machines are stationary in second bench has ten large drawers. Your Shop
this area. In the other half, in front It keeps my tools close at hand and
of the sliding doors, the machines works great when I need a second Send us photos of your shop, a
are on mobile bases, so I can move work surface. I also have a third layout drawing, and a descrip-
tion of what makes your shop
them out of the way to work on my adjustable-height bench that I use
interesting. Tell us what you
farm equipment. for planing and jointing.
make in it and what makes your
I use two workbenches The blower for my shop important to you. If "My
dust collection system Shop" features your shop, you'll
is located in the attic. receive $100.
It deposits sawdust E-mail your entry to myshop@
directly into a small, americanwoodworker.com with
specially-built trailer digital photos attached. Or mail
that's located outside your description with digital
the shop. When the photos on a disc to My Shop,
trailer is full, I trans- American Woodworker, 1285
Corporate Center Drive, Suite
port it to the barn,
180, Eagan, MN 55121. Please
where I use the saw-
include your phone number.
dust for animal bed-
Submissions cannot be returned
ding. and become our property upon
Ed Grant acceptance and payment. We
Ulster, may edit submissions and use
Pennsylvania them in all print and electronic
media.
Mark Love
A former minister discovers a new calling.
By Chris Cander
WHEN MARK LOVE delivered ser- ished seminary in 1994. Uncertain
mons in his Austin, Texas church, of his chosen career, he began
he hoped to inspire his parishioners an apprenticeship with furniture-
to change their lives. But gradu- maker Michael Colea of Driftwood,
ally, Mark realized that he needed Texas. "The first thing I learned
something more tangible than the from Michael was that I had so
job of transforming souls. So after much to learn," Mark says. Despite
five years of ministering, he stepped a lifetime of interest-beginning
down from the pulpit and turned to when he was a child in his grand-
another passion: woodworking. father's workshop-Mark had no
In the peaceful quiet of his shop experience with the precision and
in the Texas Hill Country, Mark has science that went into furniture
discovered that the same qualities making. For example, he didn't
that made him a caring minister- understand the properties of wood,
presistence, patience and an eye or how environmental factors affect
for grace-make him well suited to design. "The first thing I ever built
woodworking. Just as he saw prom- was a rocking chair for my niece. It
ise in his parishioners, Mark now was beautiful in Texas, but in Ohio,
sees the potential for beauty in each where my niece lived, the increased'
piece of raw wood. humidity caused the wood to swell
and pop-the chair became a splin-
From the Word tery hazard." Mark made another,
to woodworking more successful rocker later, after
Mark's journey to becoming a furni- four years of working with Michael.
turemaker began right after he fin- "My sister keeps them side by side,
and I still cringe whenever I see the Although Mark refers to the influ- to be strong, simple and quiet. On a
first one." ences of celebrated architects and subconscious level, I want them to
designers-notably Charles and inspire a sense of dependability and
Trusting his instincts Henry Greene, Frank Lloyd Wright, comfort. But mostly, I want people
While honing his woodworking and Charles Rennie Mackintosh-he to see the wood first. I hope to con-
skills, Mark realized that the process doesn't consciously apply their vey that something as familiar and
of refining rough lumber was similar design principles. Instead, Mark ordinary as wood is also unique and
to his earlier aim of helping parish- absorbs what he thinks are the majestic. It's a reflection of my spiri-
ioners discover their spirituality. And most appealing aspects of each tual journey. I want to honor what is
he considers the art of combining master's design language into his profound and mysterious about the
form, proportion and detail to cre- own unique style. "I love the ver- wood itself."
ate a piece of furniture to be just ticality and use of organic forms
as mysterious an undertaking. "I by Mackintosh, and the strong, The spirit in the tree
design by instinct," he says. "There wide-open horizontality of Wright. "When you hold a piece of wood, it
are no rules in my head about how it I think my own pieces reflect some can feel as though you're touching
should be done. I ask clients to send of that:' he says. "I want my designs the earth itself," Mark writes. "Wood
me photos of furniture or architec-
ture they like, so I can understand
their sense of aesthetic. I consider
the parameters they've given me in
terms of function or size, but the
rest is just intuition."
contains warmth, energy that once the universe, storing it briefly, then wishes of each client. Although his
shone as light from a generous sun, releasing it again when our time on pieces reflect his aesthetic, Mark's
captured by broad, thirsty leaves earth is complete. Perhaps this is designs are constantly evolving.
and transferred into the dense fibers why we feel such a strong connec- "I'm intrigued by many design tradi-
of branches, trunk and roots. This tion to wood. Could it be that some tions," he muses. "There will always
energy waits, imperceptibly, for part of us recognizes an unbreak- be things I haven't tried, and new
calamity or decay to release and able kinship with the tree?" things to learn."
return it to the heavens whence it Mark says he doesn't miss the
came. In this way, perhaps, a tree Answering his call ministry. "In designing and crafting
is like us. Our bodies are vessels for Mark builds about ten custom pieces of furniture that I know oth-
some mysterious bit of life, hold- pieces each year, working thought- ers will enjoy," he says, "I've found
ing a tiny portion of energy from fully to accommodate the unique my true calling."
To see more of Mark's work, visit
www.marklovefurniture.com.
In grand Arts and
Crafts tradition, Chris Conder is a freelance writer and novelist.
the legs on this Prior to writing full-time, she was a marketing
white oak dining and communications professional in the high-
table are con-
technology industry. Currently, she is a con-
structed of four
tributing editor to Oxygen, Clean Eating, and
mitered quarter-
Maximum Fitness magazines.
sawn pieces, so
they match the
quartersawn top To read more of Mark's thoughts I-.a.-~
from every van- on woodworking, go to: www.
tage point. AmericanWoodworker.com/14S/MarkLove
Restoration Man
I HAVE A SOFT SPOT for old wood-
working machines. Many of them
have features that you rarely find
on new equipment, and once you
get past the chipped paint and rusty
metal, you'll often find a real gem.
Here are three of my favorites.
-Rick Barozinsky
Duro 12"
Bandsaw
I put a lot of
Delta Drill Press
work into this
I bought this early-40s drill press saw, which dates
from its second owner. In those from the 1930s. I
days, it was common for machines repainted it blue
to be purchased without motors; and built a new
the user then added their own. The MDF base for it.
motor isn't marked, but it's probably That's right-what
a Walker Turner. This model has a looks like steel
new feature that was introduced in is actually wood. After gluing the base
'41: a center pulley, which gave the together, I shaped the corners with a
machine 12 speeds. Prior to that, . 1-1/4" roundover bit. I also added a pull-
similar Deltas came in two-pulley out handle and casters to the base, so the
High or Low-Speed versions. I'm SUH saw can be maneuvered like a wheelbar-
you've noticed that this machine ha~ row. I'm pretty proud of that!
a foot feed, which was designed for Although the machine looks like it's
production. I've found that it's per- running in the photo, it's not. The wheels
fect for mortising. are solid aluminum, with no spokes, and
I completely refurbished this drill the doors have circular cutouts in them.
press, including all the bearings, and The wheels also have a built-in crown,
repainted it Pontiac Engine Blue. rather than crowned tires. A crown helps
a blade track better-and with new tires,
this saw runs as true as can be.
Atlas/Craftsman Tablesaw
This beauty dates from 1939. The motor hangs off the back, like a
contractor's saw, but the trunnions are bolted to the body, like a
cabinet saw. The body is all cast iron; I made the base below from
MDF. The saw weighs a hefty 330 Ibs., less the base. A heavy saw
is just fine with me, because there's no substitute for mass when it
comes to dampening vibration.
Three other features are worth mentioning. First, under the table,
the blade is surrounded by a shroud for better dust control. Second, the
saw has a blade height indicator, which works quite well. And third, the
fence has a lead-screw micro-adjust mechanism. A 1/4 turn of the crank
results in the fence traveling a mere 1/64". It's not perfect, though-I
have to help engage the mechanism by pinching it with my fingers, but
when the fence moves, it's very sweet!
We'll pay you $100 to share your favorite tools, new or old, with fellow readers. Contact us bye-mail attoolnut@americanwoodworker.com. or mail us at
American Woodworker, 128S Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN SS121. If possible, please include digital photos of your tools.
-
sold, or lranslerred. This coupon cannol be duplicated In any manner Including pholocoples
Land.:mllu:..'rlnl~. o~al ::on::1 be~se~ In ~r lo..:.cel¥~e dl=nt. .. I REG. PRICE $7.99 II II REG. PRICE $89.99
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and complfler printouts. Original coupon must be presellled II order 10 recei'le llIe discount.
"
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$14999 I
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WE CARRY AFUll
LINE OF FASTENERS!
Sl'APLE
"
I ' 12"RATCHET
BAR I
LOT NO. I
TORSION BOX is a
Torsion Boxes-the Real Story
"How can something made from such thin wood be 50 stiff?" That's what everybody
asks when they first meet a torsion box. The engineering principles behind a torsion
box are pretty simple; even 50, there's a lot of misleading information about torsion
boxes, particularly on the Internet. Without getting too technical, here's what you
A remarkable piece of
engineering. It's stable,
light and uses a minimum
amount of material, yet it's extremely
strong. The idea has been around for
should know: years, and you probably have one in
• A torsion box works like an I-beam (see below). It's almost as strong as it would be if it
your house: hollow-core doors are tor-
were made from solid material-but it's much lighter and less expensive. sion boxes.
• The thicker the torsion box, the stronger it will be-by a lot! If you increase a torsion box's Making a torsion box doesn't
thickness by 25%, for example, it will be 100% stronger. If you doubled the thickness, it require any specialized equipment
would be eight times stronger. Strength increases by the thickness cubed. or skills-a guy with a small shop and
• The stiffness of the skins isn't that important. A thick material, such as 1" plywood, a decent tablesaw can easily handle
doesn't necessarily make a stiffer box than using thin material, such as 1/4" plywood. the job.
Thickness does matter in another way, though: thin material will deflect more easily When I needed a flat, solid, durable
where it's unsupported, in the spaces between the web pieces. If you'll be pounding on a
and inexpensive top for an assembly
torsion box, clamping things to it, or setting heavy objects with narrow feet on it, a thick
table, I planned on making it as a tor-
skin is better than a thin skin. Or you could space the web pieces closer together.
sion box. I researched the subject and
• The thickness of the web pieces isn't all that important, either. They can be relatively
thin and lightweight, as long as they resist stretching and compression. For an MDF box,
found a lot of conflicting information.
such as the one in this article, I usually space the web pieces 6" to 8" apart. The web I also talked to some experts-and
pieces must be well-glued to the skins to prevent the skins from buckling, though. That learned a lot.
means that the web material shouldn't be too thin-it must be thick enough to have a In this article, I'll show you how I
sufficiently wide glue surface. You don't need to use a special glue to assemble a torsion built that assembly table top, but you
box-a PYA (yellow) glue works fine. And to clear up two misconceptions on the Internet: can use this method to build a torsion
the webs don't have to look like miniature I-beams, nor do you have to cut dados in the box of any size or composition. If you
skins to receive the webs. Torsion boxes don't need to be that complicated! stretch your imagination a bit, you can
find many ways to use torsion boxes
in furnituremaking: they can be desk
Bow an I-Beam Works
or dining table tops, pedestal ends,
When you press down on a solid shelves and, of course, doors.
beam, you actually compress its top
section and stretch its bottom sec- Materials
tion. These compression and tension
A basic torsion box is composed of
forces are neutral at the beam's cen-
ter.ln an I-beam, most of the center
two types of parts: skins (the top and
is removed, to save material and bottom) and webs (which form an
weight, but the forces still act in the internal grid, and include the sides of
same way. the box). Skins are usually made from
an engineered material, such as ply-
: c
I
A :I
I
I
I
: 13
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~]) E
~
bly over and
glue and fasten
To see plans the top skin.
""for a workbench
using a torsion-box top,
go to: www.AmericanWoodworker.comJ14S/
TomsTorsionBoxBench
.....
l/IiltutmJ;u-
@ BOSCH
~AmanaTOOI
CPORTEROIIIlE
--..!I
Top of the line Jointers for
home and professional woodworkers
•
•• CELTA
Precision-ground and Quick release combination riving style Ruggedly built saw
polished, 40" x 27" solid splitter and blade guard with anti-kickback carriage with solid cast-
granite table and eden- pawls and a second European style riving iron, cabinet mounted
n wings; will never knife also included.
or warp and cannot trunnions.
rust or corrode.
Totally enclosed fan
cooled (TEFC), dual
capacitor 1 3/4 HP motor,
for smooth start-up and
quiet operation, with
plenty of power for tough
cutting applications.
Equipped with a
sturdy, easy to
adju.f, T·fence
design rip fence
system.
Simple
hardware
locks the
legs
Dovetails
Join the
legs
-
com/14S/AdjustabieLegs
COl(])
pROIECIOR
Pf'lwL
Fig. B Notch Layout Fig. C Dovetail Layout BOLl
f'ltlGLt])
Rf'lIC'lju f'lRM
('
Fig. 0 Pivot Bolt 13
Hole in Lower Leg Fig. E Layout of Ratchet Arms
~h" ])zf'l.
'ljOLE ;'OR
PNOI BOLl
Cutting List I
Part Name Qty. Material ThxWxL
A Upper leg 4 Hardwood 2-1/2" x3-1/4" x20-1/2"
B Lower leg 4 Hardwood 2-1/2" x2-1/2" x18-1/2"
Hardware
C Angled ratchet arm 4 Flat corner brace 3/32" xl" x6" x6"
0 Straight ratchet arm 4 , Flat bar stock 3132" x1" x6" Fig. F Pawl Stop (J)
E Ratchet arm pivot bolt 4 Machine bolt 1/2" x4"
F Ratchet arm pawl bolt 4 Machine bolt 1/2" x4"
G Washer 24 1/2"
H Stop nut 8 Nylon stop nut 1/2"
J Ratchet arm pawl stop 4 Corner brace 3/8"x3"x3"
K Ratchet arm release cord 2 Bungee cord 1/8" x48"
L Release cord protector 2 Vinyl tubing 3/16" x12"
Optional braces
19. You can easily add two metal braces to each
leg for additional stability (Photo 12). Fabricate the
leg braces from 1/2" thin-wall EMT electrical conduit.
On each brace, flatten both ends with a vise and/or a
hammer. Make sure the flat sections have the same
orientation.
20. On my table, the short braces are attached to
the top with lag bolts, which go into reinforcing blocks
around the legs. The long braces are connected to the Make four ratchet arms from ordinary flat corner braces. Drill
top with machine bolts, which go into T-nuts in addi- identically-spaced holes in the braces by stacking the pieces in
tion.al reinforcing blocks. To install the braces, start by ajig.
removing the ratchet stops, if you've installed them.
Drill a 3/16" by 1" deep pilot hole centered in the bot-
tom of each upper leg. Drill the holes in the short brac-
es, bend the ends to fit the table, and install the braces.
For the long braces, drill holes on the ends that attach
to the legs, and attach the braces to the legs. Mark the
locations of the T-nuts on the other ends, remove the
braces, and drill holes in the braces for the machine
bolts that go in the T-nuts. ba.t.
11
Leg Sizing "
Mount the ratchet arms to the lower legs. Add a bolt between
the arms as a pawl to engage the ratchets.
These legs can be sized for different height ranges. Generally,
every 1" change in minimum height results in a 2" change in max-
imum height. Here are examples of different leg configurations.
Relief detail
The relief detail has a profound effect
on the overall design, but it's a very
simple concept: every element exists
in its own plane. No two surfaces are
allowed to meet at the same level.
Every level is rounded over before
dropping down to the next level.
Relief adds depth and shadow, high-
most notably used for drawer fronts. lighting each and every structural
Drawer fingers were usually in lower component of the design (Photo 15).
profile than fingers on casework. On Even when the Greenes used inlay, it
all joints, the fingers were usually was in relief, proud of its surrounding
"pinned" with an ebony plug, but I surfaces.
don't know whether there are screws
or dowels beneath most of the plugs. Leg details
Charles Greene apparently did not like
Waterfall shelves simply pulling a classic design detail
A really good designer can transform off the shelf and borrowing it. He had
an apparent problem into a positive to give it a distinctive Greene and
design feature. As most woodworkers Greene twist. Such is the case with a
know, bookshelves that must carry a couple of leg bottom details.
lot of weight have to be made extra- The waterfall leg is a take on the
thick, o·r be supported underneath. classic detail of tapering the two
From an aesthetic point of view, both inside faces of a leg, making the leg
of these choices are undesirable. The increasingly narrow as it reaches
Greenes solved this problem in a the floor. The waterfall leg tapers
beautiful way. in a series of three short steps that
Seen from the front, the built-in are shaped as vertical cloud lifts
bookshelves in the Thorsen House (Photo 16).
living room are relatively thin and The Blacker House armchair's leg-
pleasing to the eye (Photo 13). A indent detail anchors the design to
closer inspection reveals yet another the ground, like a classic claw and ball
delightful Greene and Greene detail: foot. The indent pushes down and
a sort of waterfall effect on the under- transfers the weight of the piece to
side. The waterfall detail is in reality the very bottom of the leg.
a clever method to add thickness
and strength to the shelf, but it also See it up close
enhances the beauty of the piece. I hope this article whets your appetite
for more Greene and Greene design.
Back splat connectors May you someday make the pilgrim-
The backs of several Greene and age to Pasadena and see their work as
·.·
Greene chairs have small decorative it should be experienced-in person.
connectors joining the splats (Photo Soak it in, and make your own little
14). While their usefulness may be discoveries. But beware-Greene-and
debatable, the connectors' value as a Greene may become habit-forming. For an X-ray look inside Greene
by David Radtke
2
Glue up the panels for the sides and top. Work on a flat surface Mark the location of the sides' inside edges on the top's bottom
and glue the joints one at a time. face. Use a large square for accuracy.
Cut biscuit slots in the top and sides. Then drill holes for pocket Fasten the sides to the top with glue, biscuits and screws. Clamp
screws on the inside face of each side. a fence to the outside edge of the top, to hold the side in position
as you drive in the pocket screws.
DECEMBER/JANUARY 2010 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 61
Use spacers and clamps to accurately position the stretchers, Use a drawer lock bit to create the drawer joints. First, rout both
so you can drive the pocket screws. Frequently check the cabinet ends of each drawer side. A shopmade jig stabilizes the work-
during assembly, to make sure it remains square. piece, holds it against the fence, and prevents blowout on the
back edge.
Reposition the fence to shape the ends of drawer fronts and Saw the runner slot in the outside face of each drawer side.
backs. Set the fence so the depth of the cut matches the thickness These slots will be used to mount the assembled drawer in the
of the drawer sides. cabinet. Always orient the bottom edge of the workpiece against
the fence.
edges are flush. Cut the slots into the to the top as you drive the screws. height. (For complete how-to on
sides. Then stand the biscuit joiner on 10. Flip the cabinet over onto a using drawer lock router bits, visit
edge and butt it against the cabinet side flat surface and position 2-7/8" wide www.AmericanWoodworker.com/
to cut the slots into the top. Complete spacers on the inside (Photo 5). Set DrawerLockBit or see "Lock Rabbet
the other side in the same manner. the stretchers onto the spacers. Locate Drawer Joinery," AW #92, Feb '02,
8. Drill pocket holes in the inside the front stretcher 1-1/8" back from page 60). Rout the ends of the drawer
faces of each side, as shown in Fig A. the front of the cabinet, and the back sides first (Photo 6). Then change the
The locations aren't specific; center stretcher 114" away from the back. fence and rout the ends of the drawer
them between the slots and keep Clamp the sides to the stretchers and fronts and backs (Photo 7).
them at least an inch away from the then drive in the pocket screws. 13. Cut 1-1/8" by 5-1/8" hand grips
outer edges. Drill pocket holes in tlfe in the drawer fronts and smooth the
stretchers (C) at this time as well. Build the drawers curves by sanding.
9. To assemble each joint, glue 11. Rip the drawer fronts, sides and 14. Cut a groove for the drawer
biscuits in the slots in the top, backs (D through J) to width and then bottom (K) in each drawer piece, start-
spread glue into the slots in the cut them to length. ing 3/8" from the bottom edge. These
side pieces, and screw the pocket 12. Install a drawer lock bit (see grooves always go on the routed face.
screws through the sides into the Sources, page 64) in your router Match the groove's width to the thick-
top (Photo 4). Use a large square to table and make test cuts in scrap ness of your drawer bottom material.
make sure the sides remain square stock to correctly adjust the bit's Cut six drawer bottoms to final size.
3-~1"
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15. Install a dado blade in your simply clamp the drawers and
table saw and cut a 3/8" deep by 3/4" make sure they're square before
wide runner slot in the outside face of setting them aside to dry.
o/s" LIP
each drawer side, starting 1-1/2" from
the bottom edge (Photo 8). Build and install o/s" x 0/1" G,f(()()VEC/(P.)
Using the same setup, cut notches the drawer runners
through the ends of all the drawer 17. The drawers slide on runners to allow for the solid wood's seasonal
backs, so that the runner slots and (L) installed inside the cabinet. For the movement. Start with a 6" x 22-5/8"
notches align when the drawers are drawers to operate smoothly, these board (it should fit snugly inside the
assembled. Install a tall auxilliary fence runners must be correctly located and cabinet, between the bottom stretcher
on your miter gauge to support the precisely
drawer backs when sawing these end sized. The
grain notches. DO NOT cut notches in first step I
Cutting List Overall Dimensions: 27" Hx 28-1/4" Wx 19-3/4" D
the drawer fronts. is to make Part Name Qty Material ThxWxL
16. Assemble the drawers (Photo supports A Too 1 Cherry 3/4" x19-3/4" x28-1/4"
9). Apply glue to each lock joint and (M) that will B Side 2 Cherry 3/4" x19" x26-1/4"
run a bead of glue in the grooves automati- C Stretcher 2 Cherry 3/4" x4" x24-3/4"
to secure the bottom. Gluing in the cally posi- D Small drawer front 3 Cherrv 3/4" x3-1/8" x24-5/8"
E Small drawer back 3 Beech 3/4" x3-1/8" x24-5/8"
bottom helps to keep the drawer tion the
F Small drawer side 6 Beech 3/4"x3-1/8"x16"
solid and square. I find that it works runners. Two
G LarQe drawer front 3 Cherry 3/4" x4-1/8" x24-5/8"
best to glue and nail one joint, seat of these sup-
H Laroe drawer back 3 Beech 3/4" x4-1/8" x24-5/8"
the drawer bottom into this corner ports will be 3/4"x4-1/8"x16"
J LarQe drawer side 6 Beech
assembly, and then add the remaining permanently K Drawer bottom 6 Hardboard 1/4" x15-3/4" x23-5/8"
parts. I check to make sure the drawer installed L Drawer runner 12 Beech 7/16" x23/32" x17-3/4"
is square, and then nail the remain- inside the M Runner suooort 2 Beech 3/4" x1-1/4" x22-5/8"
ing three joints. Brad nails effectively cabinet (one N Back 1 Hardboard 1/4" x24-3/4" x23-3/8"
clamp the joints while the glue dries, on each side, P Apron 1 Cherry 3/4" x3-5/8" x24-3/4"
but if you don't have a brad nailer, at the back), Q Too cleat 1 Beech 3/4" 1-1/4" x23-1/4"
Check the fit. If the drawer is too tight, remove both runners and To make the drawers slide effortlessly, brush a coat of shellac
shave a bit of thickness from each one. Reinstall the runners and try into the runner slots and onto the runners. Let the shellac dry and
again. Keep removing and shaving until the drawers slide freely. then sand lightly.
and the top). Using the dimensions in 21. Position a pair of runner sup- 23. Test fit the drawers (Photo 11).
Fig. B, and measuring from the bottom ports between the cabinet top arjd A tight fit is good, because it's pretty
to the top, layout the six 3/4" dadoes the stretchers. Fasten the rear sup- easy to make the runners thinner. If
that will house the runners. Raise the port to the cabinet side, 1/4" inside the fit is too loose, you'll have to make
dado set to 13/32" and cut the dadoes, the back edge (flush with the stretch- new runners or glue strips of veneer
using your miter gauge. er). to allow room for the cabinet into the drawers' runner slots.
18. Rip the dadoed board into three back (N). Slide the runners through 24. Once you like the fit, it's easy to
or four 1-1/4" wide pieces to create the supports' dadoes and butt them make the drawers slide "like buttah"
the runner supports. Mark the bo~tom against the front spacer. Fasten the (Photo 12).
end of each piece, for reference. front end of each runner with two 25. Install the top cleat (Q) 1/4"
19. Mill the drawer runners and countersunk screws. Then remove the inside the back edge, so it's flush with
test their fit in the drawers' runnel front runner support. The back ends the runner supports. Cut, fit and install
slots-the runners must slide freely. of the runners are held in position by the cabinet back.
If the fit is too tight, shave a bit from the permanently installed support. 26. Apply your favorite finish. I like
the runners' width. Tip the cabinet onto its other side an oil/varnish blend, such as MinWax
20. Tip the cabinet on its side and and install the remaining runners. Antique Oil. hw.
clamp a 3/4" wide spacer flush with 22. Cut and fit the front apron (P).
the front edge (Photo 10). This spacer Drill pocket holes in the back and Sources
positions the runners so the drawers cut the arch at the bottom. Glue and Freud, www.freudtools.com. (800)
will be slightly recessed inside the clamp the apron to the front stretcher 334-4107,2" Drawer Lock Bit, #99-240,
cabinet. and install the pocket screws. $39.99.
64 www.AmericanWoodworker.com DEC E M BE R I JAN UAR Y 2010
Swivel Head
J,~
W
Amana rool"" n.
e...
FOI A De,llel Nearest You CaI/1-BOO-445-0077
FOI 1ll0le IIlfolllh1tlOil VISit
Arts &Crafts
Hall Tree
Organize your gear
with an oak classic.
By Steve Lehmann
M keth I t,
rill, nd p n II
4. The seat is composed of two
Cut grooves
2.
pieces: a lid (D1) and a rail (D2) that is
fixed to the case. In order to make the in all the rails
grain of the seat continuous across to fit the ply-
wood, too.
these two parts, and to ensure that
Use a feather-
they're the same thickness, glue up
board to press
the seat as one large blank, then rip it
the rail tight
into two pieces. against the
5. Mill all of the rails (A2-AS, B2-B3, fence..
C1-C2). Cut them to width and length.
6. Cut grooves in the rails for the
plywood panels (Figs. D, E and F).
While you could use your router again,
it's easier to cut the grooves on the
table saw (Photo 2). Set up a 3/8" 3.
dado set and cut from both faces, as Cut tenons
you did with the router. on the rails
7. Cut tenons on all the rails using a
(Photo 3 and Fig. D). Add a chipper dado set.
Y:J
5h"
4~
15-Y2"
Y2" P)fl)E,
3h" ]£cP
4ft, G.f'OOVc
5h" 5h"
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47- 3h" ])ccP
15-Y2" G.f'OOVc
4/
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~ig. ~ Front Rails a 44
tiPpo::
Fora
complicated
assembly,
I only put glue II
AI@mbl h@ circa
16. On the bottom (04), cut
notches for clearance around the legs
(Photo 8). You may want to cut venti- Cut notches
811
lation slots in this piece to allow damp in the storage
gloves and boots to dry. area's bottom
17. Check the fit of the side pieces panel. Screw
an extra-tall
and the bottom. Make sure you are
board to your
able to keep the legs square (Photo
miter gauge
9). Finish sand all of the side pieces
for support.
and glue.
18. Now the project is really start-
ing to take shape. Make the side slats
(C4). Sand and glue them in place.
cove and fillet all the way around the Section Part Name Qty. Material ThxWxL
piece using a cove bit and a straight Back A1 Back leg 2 Red oak H/4" x1-3/4" x72"
bit (Photo 10 and Fig. J). Using your A2 Back rail-upper 1 Red oak 1" x4-5/8" x19-3/4"
plunge router and edge guide, rout a A3 Back rail-mid 1 Red oak 1" x4-114" x19-314"
groove on the bottom of the shelf to
A4 Back rail-seat 2 Red oak 1" x4-5/8" x19-314"
fit the long tenon on the upper back
A5 Back rail-lower 1 Red oak 1" x4-1/4" x19-314"
rail (Fig. H). Glue the shelf in place.
20. Make the shelf brackets (E2) A6 Back panel-upper 1 Red oak plywood 1/2" x19-3/4" x8-1/4" (al
(Fig. K). Glue the shelf supports to the A7 Back panel-mid 1 Red oak plywood 1/2" x19-3/4" x33-3/4" (al
back legs and to the shelf. A8 Back panel-lower 1 Red oak plywood 1/2" x19-314" x8-1/4" (a)
21. Cut the seat battens (03). Rout a Front Bl Front leg 2 Red oak 1-3/4" x1-3/4" x18"
45° chamfer on their edges. Drill holes
B2 Front rail-upper 1 Red oak 1': x4-1/4" x19-3/4"
for mounting the battens to the seat
B3 Front rail-lower 1 Red oak 1': x4-1/4" x19-3/4"
(Photo 11). Elongate the outside holes
to allow the seat to shrink and swell. B4 Front panel 1 Red oak plywood 1/2" x19-314" x8-1/4" (al
Attach the battens to the seat's lid. Sides C1 Side rail-upper 2 Red oak l"x 4-1/4" x15-1/4"
C2 Side rail-lower 2 Red oak 1"x4-1/4" x15-1/4"
Wrap It Up C3 Side panel 2 Red oak plywood 112" x15-1/4" x8-1/4" (al
22. Install hinges to join the seat
C4 Side slats 6 Red oak 1/8" x1-1/8" x7-112"
lid to the seat's back rail. To prevent
Seat D1 Seat lid 1 Red oak 3/4" x15" x24-1/2"
the lid from slamming down on little
fingers, mount a lid support between D2 Seat rail 1 Red oak 3/4" x4" x24-1/2"
D3 Seat batten 2 Red oak 3/4" x1-3/8" x10"
Fig. K Shelf Bracket D4 Bottom panel 1 Red oak plywood 1/2" x20-112" x 16" (al
f
I Note: (al approximate length and width. Cut the panels 1/16" undersize i~ length and width to make
assembly easier.
..
// Fig. H Shelf Groove
-
3-1/1"
/ - . ..
--~-~lq,,~------;oJ
..
/
r
_.- --_._-
IIE-E
(EO/10M VIEw>
.. - .. -' -
FIg.J
Shelf Molding
Fig. G Seat
12.
Attach a
lid support
underneath
the seat. This
spring-loaded
hardware cush-
ions the seat
as it closes, to
protect little
fingers. My kids
love hiding stuff
inside their new
hall tree!
J
design. It also helps to position the artwork
the blank nameplate (Photo 6). You towel.
on the nameplate blank.
can use a laser printer or a photo-
copier, but not an inkjet printer. (Laser Etch the artwork onto the - - - - - - - - - - - --.- -
instead of black ink. For etching, the To etch metal, you need two substanc-
I I
)/6M a,J'lIirlJ
artwork must be printed with toner.) es: an acid (ferric chloride for brass,
~_._-----_._ ... _----._ .. --._.--.- _._--.-
If you use a laser printer, print the bronze and copper, or ferric nitrate for
artwork on a sheet of 3M CG3300 silver) and a resist (the artwork's toner
S. Reverse the text.
transparency film (see Sources, page ink) to that acid. The process requires
75). Otherwise, photocopy it on a 3M five steps. TRANSPARENCY tEi@V11I~)
FI~ LI~rl~~1
PP2500 Transparency film or the dull
matte side of a Technicks Press-n-Peel STEP 1: TRANSFER THE ARTWORK
Blue sheet. I prefer the 3M transpar- TO THE BLANK, TO CREATE A MASK.
ency films because they're cheaper, Center the transfer film on the
easier to use when you align your blank with the image-face down, and
artwork on the blank (the blue color secure it along the edges with mask-
makes lines hard to see), and available ing tape (Photo 9). Then use an old
at most local office supplies stores. clothes iron to transfer the resist and
create the mask (Photo 10). Set the
Create the blank nameplate iron to between 250· F and 350· F
6. Print the artwork on 3M transpar-
You can buy blank brass nameplates (the silk or polyester setting). Do not ency film or Technicks Press-n-Peel blue
pre-cut, but it's also easy to make your turn on the steam function. Cover the sheet, so you can transfer the image to the
own. Select a brass sheet that's 0.032" film with a piece of paper. Then iron nameplate. You must use a laser printer or
or 0.040" (0.8 mm to 1 mm) thick. This the film for four to six minutes, until a photocopier for this step, so the image is
sheet must be absolutely flat for the the film's black image looks slightly created with toner, rather than black ink.
10. Use heat to transfer the image 11. Touch up the transferred mask, 12. Cover the blank with acid, brush it
from the film to the blank. Once it's trans- after letting the blank cool and peeling off occasionally, and let it soak. After a while,
ferred, the toner ink mask will resist the the transfer film. You can add color where check the edge of the mask with a tooth pick.
acid used to etch the brass. it's missing, or remove color where it isn't Eventually, you'll be able to feel a ridge,
wanted.
Troubleshooting Tips
Practice makes perfect. No one likes mistakes, but second chances are abundant with this technique. For example, if the
mask transfers badly to the blank, you can remove it with acetone and try again. If you don't like the etched results, sim-
ply flip the blank and start over-that's one reason tape is applied to the back. Here are solutions to other problems you
might encounter.
Artwork appears 1. Film has been overheated. 1. Check the film while ironing, to make sure it
smudged. doesn't overheat.
2. The transfer film was peeled off too
aggressively, or it was removed before 2. Remove the film gently, and only after the blank
the piece hat! sufficiently cooled. feels cool.
Etched artwork is 1. Etching time was too short. 1. Try longer etching time, say 45-60 minutes.
not pronounced.
2. Etchant (the acid) has been reused too 2. Use fresh etchant.
many times.
Patina is not Darkening solution is not evenly applied Apply diluted darkening solution, quickly brush
even or too dark. onto the surface, or it is too strong. the surface with a circular motion, and then rinse.
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... . .. . .
Backside Out
AFTER DABBLING with woodwork-
ing for a couple of years, I finally got
up the courage to build some kitchen
cabinets, starting with an 8' long upper
unit. I composed a detailed drawing,
cut all the pieces, and glued the cabinet
Time Trials
together. Everything went smoothly, I BUILT TWO SHAKER-STYLE wall clocks for a local dentist, to match
and I was really enjoying myself. the decor in her office. We agreed on white pine for the cases, with
Before stopping for the day, I cut antique-style glass and authentic-style dials. Using quartz movements
the plywood back panel, glued it to with long-drop pendulums-which I purchased online-was one con-
the cabinet, and nailed it all around the cession to modernity she approved. I delivered the clocks on schedule,
perimeter and across the shelves. I left and just before leaving her office, I set the hands and tapped the pen-
the shop feeling very proud of myself, dulums, to start the movements.
and triumphantly invited my wife to go The next morning, I received a call. "I really like the clocks," the
out to dinner. dentist said, "but there's a problem." I waited for news that I was sure
Brimming with confidence, I would ruin my day. "The hands are all moving backwards." 1revisited
returned to the shop the next morning, the website, and discovered my mistake. The order number for the
only to realize that I had attached the "backwards" movement was the same as the "regular" movement,
back panel to the front of the cabinet. I except for one digit.
suspect I'll be eating crow for a wh'i1e. Dale Thompson
Dean O. Travis
Make your woodworking mistakes pay! Send us your most memorable "What was I thinking?" blunders. You'll
receive $100 for each one we print. E-mail to: ooPs@amerrcanwoodworker.com or send to AW Oops!, American
Woodworker, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite180, Eagan, MN 55121. Submissions can't be retumed and become
our property upon acceptance and payment. We may edit submissions and use them in all print and electronic media.