Productionfile

Apron Dress

Maud de Boer
M1B
20th June 16

Introduction
l Utile stands for the modern woman who creates something at home with passion
and craftsmanship. Her food is made with love and that is something you really taste.
The thought behind the designs is because of her passion for food and cooking.
This modern woman wants to be fashionable inside as well as outside the kitchen.
l Utile will transform an apron in a multifunctional garment with a natural and simple
appearance. Functionality is a big part in the designs. In all the designs the Japanese
wrap technique is used and some details will bring more functionality.
The fabrics we will use are fabrics from other factories. Also known as dead stock
fabrics. Because of the use of deadstock we will be sustainable, because of recycling
left over fabrics.
lUtile, transforms the normal woman in an dynamic, fashionable and cool
kitchen princess.

Index
Introduction

page 2

Technical drawing

page 5

Measure table style

page 6

Measure chart

page 7

Style sheet

page 8

Technical style specifications

page 9

General style specifications

page 11

Sequence of operations

page 12

Workflow

page 14

Cost price calculation

page 19

Correlation of the garment

Production and transport system
Layout of the production system
Calulation of the lead-time

page 20
page 21
page 23

Technical drawing

FRONT

BACK

Article: Apron Dress

Style number: 01.02.11.012089.096
Collection: S/S 17
Target group: woman 25 45 yrs
Label: lUtile

Description:
Slim fit, body hugging dress. Closed with
the strap in the back used as waistband.
With a halter-band behind the neck. Ring
as detail used for funtionality.

Measure table garment

Dress
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T

Size specification (cm)

Tolerance (cm)

27 cm
39 cm
37,5 cm
46 cm
120 cm
99 cm
24 cm
49 cm
25,5 cm
22 cm
30 cm
88 cm
50 cm
4 cm
4 cm
33 cm
(2X) 70 cm
3 cm
6 cm
3 cm

+/- 0,5
+/- 0,5
+/- 0,5
+/- 0,5
+/- 0,5
+/- 0,5
+/- 1
+/- 0,5
+/- 1
-

Bust
Upper waist
Waist
Hip
Whole garment length front
Whole garment length back
Top width
Bottom front
Bottom back
Front top side
Back top side
Back side wrap
Halter band length
Halter band width
Siege width
Darth lenght
Waist band length
Waist band width
Towel holder length
Towel holder width

Measure chart
M
N
G
J

O
A

B
F

P
R

FRONT

BACK

Style sheet
Article code: 01.02.11.012089.096
Retail price: 104,95
Description: Slim fit, body hugging
dress. Closed with the
strap in the back used as
waistband. With a halterband behind the neck.
Ring as detail used for
funtionality.

FABRIC:

FB.06 - CO+PES

FABRIC COLOURS

Mozarella

010

Avocado

028

Oester

DETAIL COLOURS
FRONT

BACK

Framboos

Detail 1:

Detail 2:

Ring as detail used for functionality.

096

The halterband goes behind the neck.

012

Technical style specifications

Article: Apron dress

Technical drawing:

Style number: 01.02.11.012089.096

Collection: S/S 17
Target group: Woman 25 45 yrs
Label: lUtile
Features:

Nr.

Size specification (cm)

01

Bust width front

02

Waist width front

03

Hip width front

04

Centre front lenght

05

Centre back length

06

Side seam

08

Front bottom width

09

Back bottom width

34

36

38

27
37,5
46
120
88
99
49
25,5

Special measurements

10

Waistband length

70

11

Halterband length

50

12

Darth length

33

13

Siege width

40

42

14

Seams

Stitch
type

Closing seams

Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch

15

Top / Fancy stitching

Lock
stitch

st/
cm

Seam
allowanc
e

Needle
type /
nr

Yarn
type /
nr

1 or
2 cm

1 cm

70 SPI

120

0
cm

70 SPI

120

1
mm

70 SPI

120

70 SPI

120

70 SPI

120

Chain
stitch

16

Bottom seam

Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch

17

Buttonholes

Chain
stitch

18

Miscellaneous

Lock
stitch

1,5
cm

3 cm

0
cm

Chain
stitch
REMARKS:
Terms of delivery:
- It will be ironed and then packed in polybags.
- After the polybags, the garments will be put in cardboard boxes.
- The cardboard boxes will be transported with a truck.
- The transportation will be going to the storage at the HQ in the Netherlands.
- From the storage, the garments will be transported to the stores and from the
online store.

10

General style specifications

Season Division Cost price excl.
S/S 17 Woman vat: 35,95

Style nr.:
01.02.11.
012089.096

Fabric Colour
CO +
AvocPES
ado

40
200

34
150

36
200

38
300

42
150

Date:
20th June 16

Main fabric

Sleeve lining

Contrast fabric

Interlining

Trimmings

Others:
Buckles: 2x
Ring: 1x
Brand label: 1x
Wash & Care label: 1x
Size label: 1x
Topstitching: contrast
Closing yarn: contrast
Fabric Quality Research:
Shell fabric composition: CO+PES
Actual fabric width: 1,5 m

Fabric consumption: 1,5 m

Wash & Care label:

Changes:
No changes

11

Sequence of operations
(1) Place darts in front panel

(2) Topstitch darts on 1 mm

(3) Stitch bottom parts of halterband

on 1 cm both sides

(4) Press seam open and turn around

(5) Topstitch on 1 mm both sides

(6) Get it through the buckle, topstitch

2 mm from buckle with zipper foot

(7) Overlock bottom ends

(8) Stitch top part of halterband on

1 cm both sides

(9) Press seam open and turn around

(10) Fold ends inside

(11) Topstitch on 1 mm all sides

(12) Get it through the buckle, topstitch

2 mm from buckle with zipper foot on
both sides
(13) Place siege with the wrong side above.
Place the halterband and front panel on top
of that. Stitch it on 1 cm.

(14) Press the siege on the front panel. Fold

the fabric 1 cm to the inside. Stitch on 1 mm
on the front panel.

(15) Attach the backpanels to the frontpanel

on 1 cm.

(16) Savety stitch the seam

(17) Stitch hangloops on seam

(18) Topstitch seam on outside garment

(19) Overlock bottom and sides

12


(20) Make rolled hem on bottom of 1,5 cm

(21) Make rolled hem on top part of 1 cm

(22) Make rolled hem both sides of the

backpanels of 1 cm

(23) Stitch waistbands on 1 cm both

sides

(24) Press seam open and turn around

(25) Fold both ends inside

(26) Topstitch on 1 mm all sides

(27) Attach waistband to the side of the
backpanel with cross stitch

(28) Stitch towelholder on 1 cm both

sides

(29) Press seam open and turn around

(30) Topstitch on 1 mm both sides

(31) Overedge at the ends

(32) Put it for 2/3 through the ring,

stitch it 2 mm besides the ring with
zipper foot
(33) Attach towelring on front panel with
cross stitch

(33) Control

13

Workflow
WORKFLOW SHEET:
ART.NR.: 01.02.11.012089.096

DATE:
S/S 17

FRONT

SAM

Operation

1.

12
(2x)

Halterband
bottoms: put the
good sides of
fabric on each
other and stitch
on 1 cm both
sides

2.

10
(2x)

Press seam on
both sides open
and turn around
halterband
bottoms

Pattern number:
Apron dress

BACK

Seam
symbol

Machine
type
I-needle
lockstitch

14

Stitch
type
301

Attachment

SAM
3.

10
(2x)

4.

6
(2x)

Operation

Seam
symbol

Machine
type

Stitch
type

Stitch on 1 mm
both sides

I-needle
lockstitch

301

Put it trough the

buckle, stitch it
2 mm besides
the buckle with
zipper foot

I-needle
lockstitch

301

5.

2
(2x)

Overedge
bottoms at the
bottom

3-thread
chainstitch

504

6.

50

Halterband top:
put the good
sides of the
fabric on each
other and stitch
on 1 cm both
sides

I-needle
lockstitch

301

7.

30

Press seam on
both sides open
and turn around
halterband

8.

4
(2x)

Fold the ends

inwards

9.

100

Stitch
halterband on

I-needle
lockstitch

301

Attachment

Use zipper
foot

1 mm on all
sides

10.

6
(2x)

Put it trough the

buckle, stitch it
2 mm besides
the buckle with
zipper foot

I-needle
lockstitch

301

11.

150
(2x)

Waistband: put
the good sides of
the fabric on
each other and
stitch on 1 cm
both sides

I-needle
lockstitch

301

15

Use zipper
foot

SAM

Operation

12.

100
(2x)

Press seam on
both sides open
and turn around
waistband

13.

4
(2x)

Fold the ends

inwards

14.

150
(2x)

Stitch waistband
on 1 mm on all
sides

I-needle
lockstitch

301

15.

15

Towelring: put
the good sides of
the fabric on
each other and
stitch on 1 cm
both sides

I-needle
lockstitch

301

16.

10

Press seam on
both sides open
and turn around
waistband

17.

15

Stitch towelring
on 1 mm on the
sides

I-needle
lockstitch

301

18.

Overedge at the
ends

3-thread
chainstitch

504

19.

Put it for 2/3

through the ring,
stitch it 2 mm
besides the ring
with zipper foot

I-needle
lockstitch

301

20.

50
(2x)

Stitch darth in
front panel

I-needle
lockstitch

301

21.

10
(2x)

Press darth to
the outside of
the front panel

Seam
symbol

16

Machine
type

Stitch
type

Attachment

Use zipper
foot

SAM

Operation

Seam
symbol

Machine
type

Stitch
type

22.

35
(2x)

Topstitch darth
on
1 mm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

23.

40

I-needle
lockstitch

301

24.

30

Place siege with

wrong side
above. Place the
halterband and
frontpanel on
top of that.
Stitch it on 1 cm
Press the siege
on the front
panel. Fold the
fabric 1 cm to
the inside. Stitch
on 1 mm on the
front panel.

I-needle
lockstitch

301

25.

100

Stitch the left

back panel to
the front panel
on 1 cm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

26.

75

Savety stitch the

seam

4-thread
chainstitch

515

27.

100

Stitch the right

back panel to
the front panel
on 1 cm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

28.

75

Savety stitch the

seam

4-thread
chainstitch

515

29.

3
(2x)

Place hangloop
on the seam

I-needle
lockstitch

301

30.

100
(2x)

Press the seam

to the outside
and topstitch on
3 mm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

31.

200

Overedge sides
and bottom

I-needle
lockstitch

504

17

Attachment

SAM

Operation

Seam
symbol

Machine
type

Stitch
type

32.

100

Make 1,5 cm
rolled hem at
bottom and
stitch on 1 mm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

33.

40
(2x)

Make 1 cm
rolled hem on
the top sides,
stitch on 1 mm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

34.

60
(2x)

Make 1 cm
rolled hem on
the sides of the
back panel,
stitch on 1 mm

I-needle
lockstitch

301

35.

12
(2x)

Attach
waistband to the
side of the
backpanel with
cross stitch

I-needle
lockstitch

301

36.

12

Attach towelring
on front panel
with cross stitch

I-needle
lockstitch

301

Attachment

After calculating the Standard Allowed Minutes in relation to the needed operations of
the production of the trousers, it is crucial to determine Cut Make Trim, in order to
calculate the cost price of one garment. Since the country of production for each style
of lUtile is Portugal, the cost per SAM is 0,22.
Total: 2450 SAM
M&T:
C (10% M&T):
CMT:

2450
245 +
2695 cminutes

CMT: 2695 : 100 = 27 minutes

Overall productivity: 70%
27 : 0,70 = 38,57
Costprice per minute Portugal: 0,22
Costprice CMT: 38,57 x 0,22 = 8,49

18

Cost price calculation

BASED PRE-CALC. FORM : l'Utile
style
article number

APRON DRESS - MAUD DE BOER

01.02.11.012089.096

prod country
plan quantity

description

Slim fit wrap over dress

date

description

width

S/S 17

quantity

unit

unit price

costs

MAIN FABRIC
buckle

55% cotton 45% polyester

silver buckle

150
40 mm

1,50
2

m
pc

10,95
0,40

16,43
0,80

ring
overlock yarn
sewing yarn
topstich yarn
hangloops
brandlabel
care label

silver ring
Amann Saba 120 (100% PES)
Amann Saba 120 (100% PES)
Amann Saba 120 (100% PES)
100% polyester ribbon
white 100% cotton
100% polyester

35 mm

1
2
3
1
2
1
1

pc
100 m
100 m
100 m
pc
pc
pc

0,20
0,09
0,09
0,09
0,10
0,10
0,08

0,20
0,18
0,27
0,09
0,20
0,10
0,08

size label
hangtag
recipe label
poly bag
cardboard box
COMPONENTS

orange 100% cotton

cardboard/paper
100% cotton
recycled plastic

2x2 cm
6x3 cm
6x5 cm
70x35 cm
70x40x40 cm

1
1
1
1
0,1

pc
pc
pc
pc
pc

0,05
0,10
0,20
0,20
0,30

0,05
0,10
0,20
0,20
0,03
18,93

dyeing fabric

150

1
2,50

8,49
0,50

8,49
1,25

fire retardant

150

1,50
35,00
0,75
0,09

3,75
0,04
0,75
0,09

C.M.T.
treatments
treatments
(proto) sample(s)
patterning/grading
picking charge

20x0,5 cm
5x2 cm
6x3 cm

2,50
1
1
1

PRODUCTION

14,37

SUB TOTAL

33,29

BUYING AGENCY

8%

TOTAL
RETAIL PRICE

2,66
35,95

incl 21 % V.A.T.

markup 2,9

COMMERCIAL TICKET PRICE

Portugal
1000

290%

104,26
104,95

19

Correlation of the garment

Production and transport system

Production system
Progressive bundling system - Batch system:
This system is the best method to produce the dress because of the different elements
it use to produce. This system ensures that de productivity will grow, because when
there is something wrong with the machine or employee only this part of the garment
will stand still, the rest can continue with producing. Also the quality of each
component is checked during the individual operation itself, so the quality is good.
Transport system
To get the garment pieces/pattern pieces from workstation quickly, it is wise to use
the computer controlled trolley system as transportation system because of the
different sections the production system works in. It is so that every operator of a
section gets an own hanging clamp containing only one peace of the garment and
once he finished his operation of the garment, hell put the finished operation back in
the clamp so it can go to the next department.

20

Layout of the production system

Cutting room process

- Layering process
- Marker making
- Cutting the lay
- Parts numbering
- Shoring & bunding
Pre-Assembly
1. Darts in frontpanel
2. Topstitch darts on frontpanel
3. Make halterband
4. Make waistbands
5. Make towelring
Main proceeding
6. Attach siege with the halterband
7. Attach backpanels to frontpanel
8. Savety stitch the seams
9. Topstitch the seams
10. Attach hangloops
11. Overedge bottom and sides
12. Hem bottom
13. Hem top
14. Hem sides
15. Set waistbands
16. Set towelring
Finishing
17. Attaching labels
18. Control
19. Packing for shipment

21

Towel ring:
Stitch + turn
around + topstitch sides

Overlock ends
504 - 1 pers.

301 - 1 pers.

Trough ring +
stitch at buckles

Attach towelring
on fp

301(+ZF)- 1 pers.

301- 1 pers.

Waistbands:
Trough ring +
stitch at buckles

Attach waistbands on bp

301- 1 pers.

301- 1 pers.

Hem top
301- 1 pers.

Labeling
2 pers.

Hem sides

Control

301- 1 pers.

2 pers.

Hem top

Packing

301- 1 pers.

4 pers.

Hem bottom
301- 1 pers.

Topstitch seam
301- 1 pers.

Savetystitch
seam
515- 1 pers.

Frontpanel +
backpanels
301- 1 pers.

Attach siege on
fp
Halterband:
Stitch + turn
around + topstitch bottom

301- 1 pers.

Trough buckle +
overlock ends
504 - 1 pers.

301 - 1 pers.

301(+ZF)- 1 pers.

301- 1 pers.

301- 1 pers.

301 - 1 pers.

Siege + halterband + fp
Place darts fp +
topstitch

Stitch + turn
around + topstitch top

Trough buckle +
stitch at buckles

*ZF: Zipper foot

22

Calulation of the lead-time

Cycle tim e
Formula
Cycle time

(SAM/number of employees)
x cordsize

Calculation
(2450 / 27) x 10 =
9,07 minutes

Cycletime is the total elapsed time to move a unit of work from the beginning to the
end of a physical process. This means that each employee needs a average time of
9,07 minutes to complete a operation of 10 pieces.

Leadtim e
Formula

Calculation

Leadtime
(1 bundle, 10 pieces)

Cycletime x Following
numbers of operations
(100%)

9,07 x 27 =
244,9

Leadtime
(1 bundle, 10 pieces)

Cycletime x Following
numbers of operations
(70%)
Leadtime 1 bundle (70%)
/ 10

Leadtime
(1 garment)

(9,07 x 27) x 0,7 =

171,4
171,4 / 10 =
17,14

With a leadtime of 244,9 minutes, it takes an average time of 244,9 minutes for the
whole process to run and complete a bundle of 10 pieces. To complete one garment
(with an efficiency of 70%) the leadtime is 17,14.
Daily output
Formula

Calculation

Daily output
Efficiency 100%

(Daily working minutes : SAM) x

operations

(480 : 27) x 36 =
640

Daily output
Efficiency 70%

(Daily working minutes : SAM) x

operations

((480 : 27) x 36)

x 0,7 =
448

Output 1000 pieces

1000/daily output

It takes 2,23 days to com plete all the 1000 pieces that are ordered.

23

1000 / 448 =
2,23

24