THE

MECHANISM

OF

WEAVING

w^

MECHAliTTSM-

THE

OF

WEAVING

^"BY

LECTURER

ON

TEXTILE

FABRICS,

MUNICIPAL

TECHNICAL

SCHOOL

MANCHESTER

fLonlron
MACMILLAN

AND
AND

NEW

YORK

1894

All

rights reserved

00.

PREFACE

When

of

was

depended
"7

weaver;

"

the

whole

jj

Rf

^
^

with

of

technical

which

education

schools,

practically

class

new

their

the

books

pressing

more

impetus

of

and

felt,

given

was

establishment

this

and

respecting

with

an

the

of

lack

great

dealt

the

of

power-loom

machinery,

keenly

when

by

the

weaving

new

was

weaving

skill

information

actions

Nevertheless,

problems.

and

With

definite

and

of

changed,

published

be

to

introduction

was

want

functions

true

the

and

type,
handicraft

the

ism
mechan-

weaving

use

simple

upon

industry.

new

processes,

I, began
,/{

entirely

system
a

general

comparatively

but

in

was

almost

became
t^

hand-loom

the

of

to

technical

literature

fully

was

revealed.

During
written

to

recent

on

consider

designing,

Hence,

has

twenty
not

several

but

weaving,

thereto,

relating

last

years

been

as

only
years

the

one

in

which

subordinated

it

admirable

has

been

fabric

the

has

parts

appeared

mechanical

the

much

and

important

treatise

to

too

structure,

only

have

books

structural

side
side.

the

been

custom

calculations
of

the

within

of

ject.
subthe

weaving

MECHANISM

VI

The
and

treatise

present

within

place

to

is

designed

the

manner

the

upon

book

the

want,

workman

of

the

present

branches

of

the

textile

meets

give
of

the

those

the

labour

his

Even

has

author

lays

within

the

branch

that

particulars

have

been

made

to

of

compass

include

the

Technical

School, Manchester.

Mr.

best

J.

the

thanks

Allison

assistance
to

appliances

of

Manchester,

Mr.

and

rendered

printers and

the

in

the

1894.

that

lie outside

author
J.

H.

will

thorough
which

feel that

ance
acquaint-

the

the

student

but

of

this,

as

present

are

at

preparation

fully

of

versant
con-

effort

has

been

machinery.
from

prepared
the

heartily

Cummins

enter

branches

weaving

use

to

Some
an

mainly
in

now

publishers.

September

knowledge

manifestly impossible,

over,

been

to

better

employed.

have

and

to

make

passed

machines

The

volume

degree

wasted.

be

leading types

illustrations

The

such

as

this

If

trade.

author

weaving,

mechanism

unavoidably

prehensive
com-

as

weaving

small

industry

would

in

formatio
practical in-

of

the

day

possess

would

all the

with

it

claim,

no

to

of

and

some

with, the

writer

in

altogether

been

not

every

assists

and

deficiency,

student,

of

processes

familiar

assuming

with

into

various

is most

he

one

the

principles

in

this

supply

possible, exact

exemplified

the

VING

to

of

reach

as

bearing

WE

OF

Municipal

tendered

for

this

to

valuable

work

; also

CONTENTS

PART

INTRODUCTION
PAOB

The

Power-loom

PART

II

Healds

PART

Shedding

Dividing

or

the

III

18

Warp

24

Tappets
.

Jamieson's

Tappet

43

The

Tappet

45

Barrel

49

Tappet

Woodcroft's

54

Tappet

Oscillating

57

Chain

Nuttall's

Tappet

47

Tappets

Positive

58

Driving

PART

Over

and

Single

Under

Acting

Spring-easing

IV

Motions

61

Motions

62

Motions

66

MECHANISM

VUl

WE

OF

VING
PAGE

Under-motion

Kenyon's

Compound

67
68

Motions
.

PART
DoBBY

79

Shedding
.

Shed

Centre
Double

95

Dobby

Dobbies

Lift

96
.

Blackburn

The

97

Dobby

102

Keighley Dobby
and

Butterworth

Dickenson

Modification

"

The

Burnley
107

Dobby
Shed

Positive

Closed

Positive

Open-shed Dobby

110

Dobby

113

VI

PART

119

Shedding

Jacquard

Jacquards

Lift

Single

Jacquards

Centre-shed

Cylinder

Double

and

Green

-shed

Double

"

138
146

Stop-motion

149

-motion

151

Jacquards

152

Machines

156

Card-saving
Cross-border

Machines

157

Double-shed

Machine

160

Two

Patterns

The

Verdol

The

Bessbrook

Electric

Set

one

on

of Cards

"

Compound

162

167

Jacquard

172
176

Lifts

PART
Harness

Figuring

Machines

164

Jacquard

Jacquard

Machine

The

Lift, Single Cylinder

Machines

Barker's

Devoge's Stop
Open

122

VII
179

Building

Harness

184
.

PART
Lappet

IX
250

Shedding

PART
Picking

X
265

Picking

from

the

Crank

Shaft

288

MECHANISM

OF

WEAVING
PAGE

Scroll

Picks

291
.

Over-picks

296

Positive

305

Picking

PART

XI

Pickers

307
.

Strapping
The

Picking

"

Check

Bands

309

Strap

311

Buffers

312

PART
Swivel-

XII
313

WEAVING
.
.

Circles

317
.

PART
Warp-Protectors,

Fast

or

and

XIII
Loose

Reed

Motions

318
.

Loose

Reed

Looms

322

.....

PART

XIV

Shuttle-Guards

326

....

Marriott's
Hamblet

Guard
"

Clifton

328
"

Automatic

PART
Beating

329

XV

332

up

PART
The

Guards

Reed
.

XVI

349

CONTENTS

PART

XI

XVII
PAGE

Motions

to

The

stop

Loom

the

if

Weft

352

absent

357

Brake
.

Centre

Weft

361

Plain

Side
Side

365

XIX
380

Motions

and

XVIII

Warp

PART
Takinq-up

governing

for

Fork

PART
Mechanism

Centre

is

Selvages

Selvages

436
445
.

xii

OF

MECHANISM

PART

WEA

VING

XXIII
PAGE

Timing

and

Fixing

of

448

Parts
.....

XXIV

PART

Weaving

Rooms

oe

457

Sheds
.....

INDEX

.465

LIST

OF

ILLUSTRATIONS

MECHANISM

XIV

OF

WE

VING

FIQ.

29.

PAGE

Woodcroft's

Tappet

30.

Plan

for

31.

Ring

for Woodcroft

32.

Open

Shed

33.

Hcald

34.

Section

laying

49
....

Woodcroft

Connections

51

Tappet

52
.

for Woodcroft

Oscillating Tappet

for

50

Tappet

"Woodcroft

of

Tappet

Tappet

53
55

Oscillating Tappet

35.

Driving

36.

Section

37.

Tappet Driving

38.

Single Acting

of Nuttall's

Chain

56

Tappet

57
59

Under

Motion

with

39.
"j

""

j"

40.

Hahlo, Liehreicby

41.

Kenyon*s

42.

Separate

and

Hanson's

63

JacKS

64
.

Over

Compounded

68

Motion

for Plain
Four

45.

,,

,,

,,

Under

Lever

Compounded

66

Motion

43.
44.

Motion

Spring-easing

Spring-easing Under
Roller

Springs

Motion

Cloth

70

Shafts

70

,,

Shafts

for Four

71
.

Roller

Compounded

and

Motion

Under

Lever

for

Eight
72

Shafts
46.

Roller

Compounded

Under

Lever

47.

Motion

Over

for Four

Motion

Shafts

72

Shafts

for Three

73
.

}"

Roller

48.

74
,,

""

and

49.
j"

, ,

,,

,,

Lever

51.

Front

52.

End

and

of Five-shaft

View

Motion

Shafts

for Three

for Three

Shafts

75
75

of Five-shaft

Elevations

End

Under

Motion

Over

50.

"

,,

Roller

Over

Under

Motion

76

77

Motion
.

53.

Roller

54.

Diagram

showing

Motion

and

Shafts

for Seven
of

movement

Shedding

Closed
55.

Under

Lever

and

Under

Warp

when

actuated

77

by
78

Motions
.

82

Single Lift Dobby

fulcrumed

Griffe

56.

85

j"

Hooks

57.

pushed

j"

Archer's

58.

Ball's

60.

Rotary Cylinder

61.
""

Motion
Motion

Motion

Dobby

63.

Lag Pegging

64.

Centre

65.

Blackburn

Shed

91
92
93

Pegs

62.

89
.

Rotary Cylinder

"}

for

Right

and

Left

Hand

Dobbies

Dobby
Dobby

66.
"

Cylinder

Swinging

j"

86

87

Dobby

""

59.

Griffe

on

,,

94
96

(rear end
(front

view)
"

99
.

100
.

LIST

OF

ILLUSTRATIONS

XV

FIO.

67.

PAGE

Blackburn

Dobby

68.

Ward's

69.

Butterworth

(sectionalelevation)

101
.

Dobby

103

and

Modification

Dickenson's

of

Eeighley

Dobby

106

70.

Burnley Dobby

71.

Christy's

72.

108
Closed

Positive

Knowles's

Positive

Shed

Dobby

Shed

Open

74.

,,

Jacquard

75.

116
123

Motion

126

Sliding

"

76.

114

(sectionalelevation)

,,

Swinging Cylinder

(driving)

Dobby

73.
,,

111
.

Goos's

128
,,

77.

Needle

Jacquard

78.

End

79.

Modern

129
.

of

View

130

Hook

Jacquard

134
.

Needle

80.
,,

81.

Machine

Jacquard

Goos's

135

,,

136

Hook
....

82.

Ainsley's

83.

Lambert's

84.

Centre

Shed

137

Jacquard

Lift, Single Cylinder Jacquard

Double

140
.

142

Crossley's

,,

"

"

,,

,,

"

Needle

85.
,,

86.

Double

87.

Green

147

Cylinder Jacquard
and

Barker's

Motion

Stop

for

Double

Cylinder
150

Jacquards
88.

Devoge's Stop

89.

Cheetham

90.

Davenport

and

Motion

for Double

Sutcliffe's

Howarth

93.

Compound

94.

Verdol's

95.

Bessbrook

and

154

Jacquard
Motion

for

158
.

Cross

Double

Shed

161

Jacquard

163

Jacquard
Small

151

160

Pearson's

Gauge

165

Jacquard

Jacquard, Hooks, Needles, Griffe, and

Twilling
169

Jacquard,

96.

Bessbrook

97.

Bonelli's

Electric

98.

Jacquard

Machine

99.

Harness
""

Jacquard

Jacquard

Bars

100.

Shed

Cylinder

,,

92.

Open

Cylinder Jacquards

Crossley's Cross-border

and

91.

border

143

End

View

Jacquard
Lift

170
174
178

AVarping

Rail

185

Building

Rods

186

101.

Knots

188

102.

Straight Tie

194

MECHANISM

XVI

OF

WEA

VING
PAGE

no.

103.

Straight Tie (largeand

Harness

Centred

104.

for

Compound

Straight Leasing

Unequal

,,

109.

Plan

Tie

Equal

107.
Draft

for

in two

1 View

En

111.

Plan

196

Sections

198

Tie

198
,,

Compound

Tie

Unequal

in three

Sections

of Double

"

Equal

Plain

199
200

two
,,

110.

194
196

,,

108.

combined)

Tie

106.
106.

small

""

Cloth

Tie

202
203

"

112.

Bannister

113.

Pressure

114.

Gauze

""

Harness

204

Harness

208

and

Draft

Tie

210
....

Standard

115.

and

for

Doup

""

116.
M

with

117.

Open

Shed

211

Cross

Shed

211

"

Half

two

Healds

and

Bead

212

""

118.
119.

for Gauze

Shaft

Lappet

Doup-easer

lifted

"

214

Plan

123.

Shaker

124.

Plan

125.

Doup

126.

Plan

127.

Wilkinson's

128.

Hand

129.

Reading-in

130.

Reading

Harness

Doup

221

Harness

222

in two

Sections

Harness

in two

224

Sections

225

Harness

226

Repeater Card-cutting

220

Douping

Top Doup

of

217

Harness

Doup

for Heald
of

215

of Bottom

122.

Treadle

Harness

Doup

Bottom

213
.

by Jacquard

depressed by Tappet

120.
121.

Weaving

Machine

229

Machine

231

and

in

Machine

Repeating

with

Horizontal

Punch

233

131.

Reading-in

132.

Devoge's

133.

M'Murdo's

134.

and

Repeating

Automatic

Machine

Repeater

with

Vertical

Side

136.

Plan

137.

Front

237
239

""

"i

it

""

240

of Piano

Elevation
of Headstock

Card-cutting Machine

Piano
of

Elevation

242

Card-cutting Machine
Headstock

Piano

243

Card

Machine

139.
140.

Plan
Card
Front

of

235

Nuttall's

135.

138.

Punch

244

Carriage

Lacing

-cutting

and

Elevation

Piano

Card-cutting

Wiring
of

Lappet

Machine

245
.

247

....

Frame
.

252

MECHANISM

XVIU

OF

WE

VING

"10.

177.

PAGE

Enlarged

View

Picking
178.

The

of Shuttle

Check

306

Strap

Plan

180.

Collier,Evans,

181.

Loose

182.

Plan

Reed

312

'
.

Elevation

and

of Fast

and

Reed

319

Motion

Riley'sSwell

for Fast

Motion

Reed

320

Motion

View

323

of Harker

and

Loose

Grayson's

Reed

Swell

325

325

loo.

,,

,,

184.

Marriott's

185.

Front

186.

Side

.,

Shuttle

328

of Farrell's

Elevation

Automatic

Guard

Shuttle

330
331

187.

End

188.

Beam,

189.

Diagram

for

190.

Diagram

showing

Graphic

Sketch

Elevation

of

and

,,

,,

Beating- up

Mechanism

and

Crank,

tricityin
Slay

,,

,,

Guard

"

192.

Lyall'sPositive

of

Carriage

Motion

179.

191.

and

the
for

335

of

Eccentric

of Crank

Motion

determining

of

the

337

Steam-Engine

Position

the

Slay

Arm

Connecting

determining

,,

Centre

Slay
of

Amount

339
340

Eccen
341

Connections

for Double

Beat

348
348

19o.
,,

,,

194.

The

195.

Side

,,

Reed

350

Elevation

of Weft

354

Fork
.

196.

Plan

355
"

197.

Front

198.

Side

,,

Elevation

of

Brake

Ordinary

357
357

"

"

199.

Front

Elevation

200.

Plan

of

201.

Plan

of Centre

202.

Front

of

Brake

359

Brake

Double

Haythornethwaite's

360

Fork

Weft

Elevation

Double

Haythornethwaite's

362

Weft

of Centre

Fork

363
.

203.

Side

364
"

204.

Warp

205.

Rope

206.

Schilling'sAutomatic

207.

Front

Beam
and

End

Weighting
Side

210.

Plan
Front

Warp

of

Rod

366

367

Weighting

Motion

Crabtree's

and

Hanson

372
Automatic

373

Motion
.

of Hanson

and

Crabtree's

Automatic

Warp
374

Motion

Elevation

of Smith's

Automatic

Letting-off Motion

375
376

"

211.

and

Holes

Letting-offMotion

Weighting

Elevation

209.

Morticed

Weight

Elevation

Warp
208.

with

...

,,

"

"

Elevation

Take-up

Motion

of

"

"

Keighley's

Automatic

"

Let-off

and

378

LIST

ILLUSTRATIONS

OF

XIX

PAGE

FIG.

212.

Positive

213.

Front

Motion

Taking-up
Elevation

382

of Positive

Taking

with

Motion

up

clined
in-

387

Shaft
214.

Side

Elevation

of

with

Motion

Taking-up

Positive

clined
in388

Shaft
Elevation

Front

of

216.

End

217.

Negative Taking-up

218.

Front

219.

li"iid

Elevation

of

Motion

Looms

Box

Diggle's Negative Drop

392

Motion

395
396

,,

220.

390

Silk

applied to

as

389

Motion

Negative Taking-up

of

Elevation

Motion

Negative Taking-up

215.

Smith's

"

,,

for

Diggle's Chain,

,,

Motion

Link-saving

,,

Front

Elevation

398

221.

Smith's

222.

Honegger's Drop

223.

Motion

Link-saving
Box

Diagrams

225.

Wright

Plan

399

Motion

401
....

Knowles's

224.

Diggle's Chain,

for

(sectionalelevation)

"

"

showing

Movement

Shaw's

Positive

in Knowles's

of Boxes

Drop

403
.

Box

Motion
vation
Ele-

Front

Motion,

404

406
226.

Shaw*s

Wright

Box

Drop

Positive

"

and

of

"

,,

,,

407
.

Plan

227.

228.

Plan

Motion,

Cylinder

Needles

408

Shaw's

Wright

Positive

Box

Drop

Link

Motion

Econo-

miser

408

229.

Chain

for

230.

Chain

Clip

231.

Hacking's

Wright

Shaw's

Wright

for

Positive

Positive
Shaw's

Positive

Motion

Drop
Box

Drop

Eccentric

Box

Drop

Box

409

Motion

410

Front

Motion,

Elevation
232.

412

Hacking's

Eccentric

Positive

Box

Drop

Motion,

Back

Elevation
233.

413

Positive

Hacking's
Positions

234.

Cowburn

Drop

Eccentric

Box

Motion, showing
414

of Eccentrics

Peck's

and

Positive

Box.

Drop

Motion,

Front

417

Elevation
.

235.

Cowbum

and

Peck's

Positive

Box

Drop

Motion,

End
418

Elevation
236.

Cowburn

237.

Chains

and
for

Peck's
Cowburn

Positive

and

Drop
Peck's

Box

Motion,

Positive

Plan

Drop

419
.

Box
421

Motion
238.

Chains
Motion

for

Cowbum

and

Peck's

Positive

Drop

Box
422

MECHANISM

XX

OF

WE

VING

PAGE

FIO.

239.

Circular

Box

Elevation

Front

Motion,

424
.

End

240.
,,

241.

Trough

242.

Single

Elevation

of

Boxes

425
.

,,

and

Roller

End

Temple,

Elevation

Plan

and

429

Plan
"

430
....

,,

with

243.
,,

,,

244.

Swiss

Inclined

245.

Horizontal

246.

Shorrock

Roller

King

Ring
and

Saw

Teeth

431

,,

Temple

434

Temple

436

Centre

Taylor's

Front

Motion,

Selvage

Elevation

247.

439

and

Shorrock

Selvage

Centre

Taylor's

Elevation

439

...

248.

French

Centre

Elevation

Front

Motion,

Selvage

,,

Sir

Salt's

441

"

,,

Titus

441

Side

249.

260.

Side

Motion,

Centre

Selvage

Motion

443
.

251.

Boat

for

Plain

weaving

Side

Front

Selvages,

Elevation

Side

252.
"

"

253.

Lever

254.

The

255.

Elevation

256.

Plan

and

Warp

Mails

Line

of

of

weaving

Weaving

446

"

"

for

446

Plain

Side

Selvages

447
450

Weaving
Shed

Shed

458

463

PART

INTKODUCTION

THE

POWER-LOOM

\/
The

machine

has

for

others

been

has

Many

where

Various

development

has

that

or

the

of

the

The
inventors

passed

still

who

done.

awaiting

apparently

inventors

of

work

at

remain

immediately

without

detection

sensitive

want

of

add

comparative

must

manipulated,

the

through
the

work

spinning

application

of

essential.

and

trial, had
isolation

to

of

mechanics

in

training

unmechaniced

after

rapid

defective

and

render

movements

higher

be

to

the
which

amongst

capabilities,

These

retard

to

material

the

II

be

to

are

some

weaving

and

that,
the

much

time

remains

many

foremost

loom,

processes.

to

machine

the

been

nature

preparatory

delicate

Then

have

varying

ever-

and

which

and

them.
causes

placed

these

Of

Cartwright
left

solved,

been

solution.

Dr.

followed

its

have

still

much

but

weaving

loom-makers

of

during

century,

accomplished,

problems

attention

the

than

more

automatic

thoroughly

engaged

satisfactory

be

of

construction

clumsy
be

parts

replaced

loom-makers

led

has

the

to

by

others.

from

loom-

MECHANISM

has

users

former

at

had

the

in the

equally hampered
skill to carry

out

of the

use

idea that

stood

by machinists
mill

the

and

managers,

The

loom

is

movements

is well

to

arrange

hence

known,
and

each

ensure

part

order

in

keep

lead

of

naturallyexpect

find

to

motions,

all who

of

out

breakage

spent in developing the

imperfectlyconnected
slay, some
whilst
causes

others
much

loom,

to

its

in

move

and

annoyance

the

generallyspeaking,the
it

approaches to

of

mechanism,

and
weaver

more

or

after

less

upon

designed

to

which
do

has

not

the
seven

On

to

get

century

frequentlyso
of

motion

the
the

direction,
of

least

it,

weaver.

and

Jacquard

of

this; but,
the

loom
or

nearer

eight pieces

specialwork,

loosely connected.

unweaving

Jacquard cards, the

elaborate

parts

normal

dobbies,

facturing
manu-

able

the

to

unity

various

are

say

loss of time

more

framing

each

to

to

would*

in

yet, after

familiar instances

most

of
one

be

not

their

fixed

want

the

parts

This,

Ordinary taking-up motions,

cylinders are

and

case,

reversing

reversed.

are

will

one

that, on

continue

mechanism,

any

unite

another; and

with

harmony

so

and,

difficult

more

interested

are

to

occurs,

or

the

being

constantlyaiming
that, unless

is

parts

continuous

than

Such

disaster.

to

of intermittent

series

accurately timed

be

must

other.

mechanism

intermittent

parts

overlookers,

its various

control

to

the work

equally shared

be

the
a

been

adding

weavers,

on

in which

regular sequence

will

manufacturers

required

with

of

must

practical

mechanical

necessary

hand, and

one

machine

are

as

the

on

of

latter have

the

honour

time

of

test

lack

dailycontact

the

suggested. Nevertheless,
have

the

of the

placingmany

and

loom,

part

their

to

by wanting
any

VING

effect of

detrimental

disadvantage,owing

experience

that

WE

OF

are

such

fitted,
looms

infrequentlyto adjust the

picking-chain,the box-chain,

and

the

HEALDS

II

separately

motion

taking-up

before

again starting

the

loom.
There

however,

are,

attempts have

honest

the

for

They

detail

in

divided

the

fast

which

the

as

guards ;

and

setting,and

is considered

relative

as

assist

reversing

straps, buffers, brakes,

let

are

off,take

dealt

up,

After

others.

whole, and

positionsof parts

PART

to

under

secondary motions,

c,

means

namely,

"

6, parts added

over

reeds, check

loose

loom

the

perfectmachine.

beating up

of

construction

to

stops, temples, selvage, and

weft

is separately

into, a, primary mechanism

primary motions,

and

shuttle

box,

principal

loom

parts, and

those

all to form

connecting

are

control

and

all the

of

reference

with

shedding, picking,and

gear,

section

principlesgoverning

parts, the

adopted

each

followingpages

treated

or

to control

made

been

where

exceptions

positively.

movements

In

notable

some

the

timing,

with.

II

HEALDS

Weaving

consists

in

interlacingtwo

placed longitudinallyand
The

longitudinalor

wound

upon

two

lines,and

the

opening made,

proper

are

successive

formed

Healds

the

of

transverse

must

weft

to

of
or

form

threads

are

threads,
a

separatingthem
weft

the

one

fabric.

arranged and

been

thread

be dealt with.

now

threads

of

transverselyin

having

question

passing a

selection

lines,as

threads

warp

beam,

the other

sets

upper

It

through
is

and

inserted, that

into

by the
lower

patterns

in fabrics.
in

one

form

or

another

have

been

employed

for

MECHANISM

centaries

many

conditions

them

the different kinds

intended

are

forming

perfect means

student
the

of healds

that he
best

he should

healds

shed

under
of

shall know

this

familiar

the

as

how

Before

results.

well

plishing
accom-

shedding.

as

first become

as

certain

with

they

purposes

serve.

the time

From
of

to

part

technicallyknown

produce

to

done, however,

be

can

is

VING

because

most

the

to

WE

warp,

the

which

work,

importance

employ

to

divide

to

they supply

this
It is of

OF

later inventors

perfected,and

was

improve

to

the

first introduced

were

it

the

upon

remained

only

model

principle

and

for

introduce

appliancesfor actuating them.

new

The

by

the

with

the

used

was

of

and

of

them,

but

required

warp

formed

the

of

the

means

adopted
"

threading a

the

rendered

kind

of

the

weaving

needle

of

loops

the

through

lacing
inter-

threads

was

thus

Although

this
"

of

shed

rest.

rods

slow

of

upon

rod, and

proper

controllingthe

for

thread

warp

order

perfected by

was

consisted

number

fabric.

across

expeditious than

vastly more

was

and

the

threads

principleof shedding
hands

The

given

forward

the

weaver's

and

one,

employed, depended

threads

produce

to

set

one

sponded
exactly corre-

passing round
rod.

record

any

collectively
they equalled the

by drawing

carrying

It

modern

of rods

warp

have

we

Greeks.

wooden

the number

the closeness

of

loops,each
to

which

and

half

lower

fastened

rod, and

of

Egyptians

series of twine

being
a

on

primitiveheald

most

invention,

namely,

; still it

process

of

previous method

the warp

in

the

manner

analogous to darning.
Fig. 1
a

is

is

cross

forming
attached.

representationof
-section

loop,
When

of

and

rod

c
c

warp

the

the above-named

thread,

wooden

is drawn

rod

forward,

the
to

heald
heald
which

all warp

; dot

twine
it is

threads

MECHANISM

c,

the warp

d, togetherwith

will receive

similar

by it, and
space

in

the

OF

threads

motion
treadle

opposite

; but

h\ all

down

the

the
as

position
threads

warp

required

in

very

other

hand, great and

warp

when

shed

PART

shaft

loops,

c\ d\ the warp

through

move

When

trolled
con-

equal

an

treadle

be

part

is

h'

reversed,

elevated

and

is

strain

unnecessary

owing

to

the

is

quently
conse-

depressed
on

the

put upon

the

but,

expeditious manner;

is open,

its

2.

of every
can

VING

passed through

direction.

Fia.

forced

WE

nipping tendency

HEALDS

II

of the
the

loops,which

heald

making

from

the warp

prevents

slidingmovement.
slightest
is made

If reference
are

above

and

the

arranged
healds
the

In

be

ensure

and

downward

motion

is

shaft, the loops bear

prevent

so

difference
and

material

being
used

are

To

may

thread

bent

warps

that

it

us

tendency

any

must

be
In

excessive

upward

an

clasped healds

the

due

to

where

this
a

them,

is

breakage

the

inelastic

or

likely to result.
that

strange

remedy eventuallyadopted escaped

any

straight

of
elasticity
weak

or

move

between

length of
the

to

cases

certainly appears

should

slide, consequently

to

between

woven.

when

the thread

exist

the

points

they

is exerted

force

tightlyupon

when

between

threads

With

so

latter will bend

length

eyes

required.

well be done, for when

cannot

and

heald

through

is

If it is

fall.

or

rod

one

shaft

each

of the

their

with

horizontal

are

that

noticed

warp

rise

strainingthe

avoid

to

be

that

movement

increase

so

slide

to

threads

acting,any

order

free

the

vertical

all warp

not

are

former,

e.

it will

it ; also

below

other

to

as

that

assumed

Fig. 2,

to

placed at right angles to

healds

e,

the

the
of

notice

simple
so

many

generations of skilled workmen.

The

modern

almost

perfect by the

loop by tying a

upper

for

room

of

thread

freelywithout
largernumber

than

was

The
to make

to

knot

to

warp

be

"

been

has

forming
short

lower
pass

Thin
was

placed side by

an

rendered
in

eye

above

distance

half, thus

through,
laths

have

mainly
side

in

done
a

the
the

leaving

and
also
to

given

move

long
allow
space

the rods.

followingamongst
twine

the

rods, which

possible with

heald

at

strained.

being

displaced round

ago

of

device

with

it links

point where

indispensable heald

other

materials

have

Worsted, linen, silk,and

been

used

cotton

; but

OF

MECHANISM

worsted

and

cotton

comparatively recent

used

twine

silk

and

the

in

worsted

worsted

healds

cotton

the

Down

the

was

of healds

manufacture

in

part

have

former, and

to

principal

the

for

cotton

entirely

large

to

planted
supin

extent

latter trades.

the

Good

this

is

healds

cotton

longer

last

than

the

skill

that

the best

the

meaning

of healds
of the

well

as

and

exceptionalpurposes

and

that

care

sizingand varnishing cotton

upon

define

for all but

to

work

cheaper, will

are

worsted

largely due

bestowed

to

period

industries,but

V2NG

chieflyemployed.

now

are

WE

word

been
sidering
Con-

twines.

faulty,it

are

have

"good,"

be well

may

applied

as

to

them.
If

heald

could

of

perfectlysmooth, capable
strain, and

friction and

pattern, it might
had

manufacture

is

the

it

generally;

has

carried

now

been

of the

of

and

said

be

upon

two

to

reed

any

this

or

branch

of

specialbranch

for

of

manufacturers

surprisingextent

elaborate
better

as

this

its

automatic

branch

successful
may

ting
knit-

of

methods

descriptionof

Something

attempted.
or

and

but

requisite for

one

of

amount

by
present century, principally

with

present work,

the

processes

will not

drying ;

as

work

improved

machinery, together

scope

that

on

who

firms

of beautiful

varnishing,and

large

perfected.

during the latter half

the introduction

resistinga

readily adjustable to

industry by

cotton

eminently flexible,

was

fairly claimed

be
been

Heald-making

that

obtained

be

sizing,

is outside

the

the

machinery

accomplishment
nevertheless

important points relatingto

be

heald

manufacture.

Sizingand
for defective
in

the

loom,

varnishingare
work
some

at

of

this

quite as important

knitting;

as

stage produces detrimental

which

may

be

mentioned

as

effects

swollen

HEALDS

II

and

twisted

instead

twine,

of

size

being

and

and

Heald

twine

and
is

few
a

threads

increase

would

be

put

control

to

put

rule

heald

that

is

available,

be

has

twist

that

of

sizing

to

have

attempts
from

the

is still left

following

will

serve

must

be

remembered

reed

will

most

heavy

to

select

the

lack

of

and

experience

doubling

heald

the

and

Several

it.

mill

but

twine,
and

the

manager

or

rejected,

of

formation
in-

thread,

increasing

been

such

no

definite

of

spinning

proportion

have

mathematical

to

diameter
upon

to

they
to

the

knitter.

the
The

any

the

made

causes

that

effect

varnishing

been

various

matter

of

and

enough

strong

unfortunately

chiefly owing

reducing

upon

if

friction

sustain

approaching
but

respecting

twine
to

shafts

more

manufacturer

desired,

to

containing
the

result

for

actuate;

upon

unable

enable

something

is much

accuracy

be

to

fineness

warps.

would

with

as

the

fabric

Again,

warp.

coarse

for

and

would

warp

upon

twine

rule

the

upon

has

crowded

be

made,

was

fine

pressure

would

of

lumps

rigidity,

suit

to

it

suitable

twine

warp

powers.

threads

warp

inch

per

the

to

extreme

eyes,

thickness

in

vary

that

the

in

lasting

the

of

obvious

large

of

must

closeness

it

left

sideways

or

facing it, roughness,

and

open

lack

stickiness,

closed

eyes

varnish

as

costly

"

table

of

guide

to

make

that
the

yarns
the

suitable
selection

although
strongest

of

the

different

for

reeds
but

counts;

higher

healds,

numbers

they

are

it
for
the

MECHANISM

lO

few

metallic
but

did

tended

to

not

than

healds

Other

longer

which

upon
It

made

for

loose

Being
a

regular

slidinga
number,

the

healds

knitted
of fabric

cut

each

and

positionby

If

healds

few

other

and

suitable

heald

pull of

implies
wire

contiguous

the

over

on

each

twisted

being
small

wire, a

to

warp

for the

through,

pass

reception

one

warp

makes

off

or

of

shafts,

"

shaft

warp.
a

obtain

to

the

space.
for

question
the

into its

Whereas

fixed

matter

no

given

simply

readilymove

longer,

equally adapted

are

; it is

last

fabric

on

the

possess

They

will

has

they

for any

shafts, they

change

heald

that

required

are

irregular draft

an

or

experience

costly without

healds

wire

the

upon

for

end

threads

warp

many

healds,

looselyplaced.

are

perfectlysmooth,

how

which

twine

on

favour;

entirelyof

each

following advantages
are

much
more

centre

at

one

claimed

is

eyes

in

ordinary healds.

are

they

be

to

left in the

loop being
and

them

prove

durable

more

with

meet

PART

introduced

form

to

VING

were

employed

clipswere

they

healds

ago

years

WE

OF

with

position,and

of

required
appointed

ordinary
a

change

of healds.

breaks,

there

threads, and

is
a

tendency

difficultyis

to
ex-

HEALDS

II

in

perienced

broken

rigidityof

wire

shafts

of wire

Fig.
are

the

warp

will

also

the

loops varying

is

with

compared

as

shows

this

owing

form

of

from

10"

the

to

twine.

more

occupy

in the

space

13"

to

number

loom.

heald

band

from

greater

given

modern-eyed

when

them

between

hand

the

passing

repairing

II

to

6, h\

band

B'

Fia.

c, the

eye

\' deep
Eyed

formed

for

for cotton, to
healds

or

other

metal.

rough, knotty
principallyused

for

for silk ;
in

metal

eye

Such
warps

"

warp

used

are

frequently support

the

3.

fine

to

pass

d^ the

laths

or

many

healds
'have

thread

made
are

to

silks

be
and

forms
of

through,
shafts.

twine

loops

steel,brass, glass,

often

employed

woven,

but

cotton

gauzes.

when

glass

is

They

MECHANISM

12

less resistance

all offer

eyes, and

which

must

part

of

passage

than

warp

twine

generally speaking they

if

example,

inch, then

take

contain

set, must

reed

contains

healds

100

it will be

necessary

to

consider

The

following

rule

will

required for

shaft

any

Dents

inch

per

dents

the number

100

also

warp

the

threads

per

shafts in

it is evident
the

upon

their

may

shafts,therefore

distribution

the

give

they
also.

number

healds

of

"

in

reed

filled

inches

by

of reed

filled

pattern

one

of threads

patterns required, ". the number

of

in

with

all the

across

; but

unequally placed

equally or

order

XVI.

Part

lineal inch, taken

one

but

through them,

See

used.

be

to

drawn

the

with

only correspond

not

is

warp

For

be

but

WEAVING

room.

Healds

reed

to the

better;

^ear

more

up

OF

pattern

per

total of healds

the

meaning

of

line
warp

for that

reference

drawing

the

and

eye;

an

the

heald

repeat
a

of

find

of

draft must

any

be

arrangement

draft

the

reeding, or

horizontal

vertical

positionof

thick

passing

line

heald

vertical
the

lines

warp

tween
be-

reed.

how

threads

many

pattern, the

observed,
occurs

the

the

render

Each

thin

each

of

plan

or

will

clear.

marks

between

order

to

is

rule

shaft;

spaces

of the

made,

patterns required,equals the

which

arrow-head

the dents

is

shaft.

preceding
a

calculation

the

through the healds,

represent the scheme

In

of

Fig. 4,

to

warp

represents
thread

for which

the number

multipliedby
A

shaft

the

on

and

position of
a

every

point found

again,and

used

are

whenever

to

one

thread

where

in
tain
cer-

consecutive

MECHANISM

In

Fig.
two

upon

the

6
sets

warp

of

WEA

OF

threads

VING

arranged

are

ahafta; blank

part

on

epacos

one

in

groups

Bet

come

4
3
S

opposite

to

desirable
to

to

the

Assume

healds

on

obtain

the

healds
the

on

the

same

in

other;
and

rate

order

all
of

such

it is

cases

knitting

in

tion
addi-

shaft.
reed

be

to

used

but

have

to

three

nrn

threads

there
per

to

are

shaft.

each

three

dent,
threads

then

to

"

one

repeat

120

120

repeats,
x

360

and

as

healds

The
manner

6
=

deats

of
-a'lr

an

be

Some
calculations

this

reed

each

but

30

each

obtained

shafts

1, 2, and

missed,

3 knitted.

must

broken

are

be

made

of

the

to

such

for

to

an

several

inch, and

an

pattern

one

more,

inch,

an

healds

it

follows

.'.

heald

knitting.

draft

3 ; and

following

requires

/^ of
rate

from

the

therefore

shaft

occupy
is the

in

equals g'^ of

leaving equal

space

inch, and

drafts

obtained

pattern,

as

only

for
3

be

must

(rrder is

missed,

it will

healds

The

and

of

for

inch

an

knitting,

dent

used

are

can

knitting

One

"

of

/^

that

of

rate

thus

for

"

shafts

extent

shafts

knitted,

i, 5, and

that
;

separate

this

is due

i6

to

MECHANISM

OF

VING

WEA

in drafting,in parsing
irregularities

the

reed,

Fig.

shown

the

reeded

have

both

each

in

thread

one

to

the

aa

through
following

"

from

shafts

dent, and

threads

threads

two

the

combined,

causes

will demonstrate

examples
In

from

or

part

those

pattern,

1, 2, 3, aad
from

120

.-.

shafts

4
6

13

to

healds

120

are

shaft.

per

Shafts

to

have

each

threads

two

to

pattern

"

120x2-240.

The
the

number

of

correspond,
have

must

pattern

calculation

the
an

number

120

patterns

Shafta

6
1

to
to

tested

healds

in

made,

eye,

thus

16

1920

warp

threads.

with

In

proving
the

last

preceding
example

thread
per

960

=960

"

the

; unless

threads

"

Total

thus

set

warp

240

"

reed, and

for every

healds

120

by finding

fill the

to

been

each

13

of

has

error

separate

be

can

required

threads

warp

it with

comparing
both

of

accuracy

calculation

(Fig. ij),the

to

1920

be

draft

correct.

in

healds

and

HEALDS

II

reed

both

are

shaft

from

reeded

are

remaining shafts

three

r-^

of

dents

14

threads, and
Shafts

1, 2,

in

dent, and

pattern

per

the threads

those

the

from

dent.

dents; these

in

two

dents

"

that

it will be noticed

irregular;

17

If patterns,

selvage

filled with

be

may

patterns used.

51

3 each

1 thread

has

to

pattern

51x1

51healds.

51x4

204

51

x3

153

51

x6

306

51x8

408

51x2

102

"

"

j"

j"

Total

Froof, Forty threads

"

pattern

per

51

In all

either

be

provisionmust

cases

by knitting extra

healds

made

for

upon

the

body, or by adding separate shafts.

the

shafts

Only employed

are

the

from

One

event

when

the

As

selvagethreads,
shafts
a

used

for

rule separate

selvage pattern

differs

body pattern.
point

which
settingy
for

2040

patterns

threads.

warp

be

healds.

2040

fine
some

still

requires

is resorted

reed, is used
healds

must

equallydistributed

to

when

with
be

elucidation

set

coarse

left empty

along the
C

entire

"

of

namely,

heald-

healds, knitted

one.

; but

shafts.

In

such

they

an

should

MECHANISM

i8

The

of

order

be obtained

settingcan

following formula

with

reed

Let

"

containing only

knitted

are

per

dents

inch

drafts

full

of

to

be

used.

for

suitable

healds

with

used

be

to

are

reed

inch, then

per

_2
~T'

39^26
two

reed

"

that

26

or

used

assumed

it be

26

be

to

healds

dents

39

the aid of the

by

"

for which

Example,

part

Reed
Reed

VING

WEA

OF

the

healds

to

will

suffice

to

draft

empty

one

all

across.

One

other

it is

clear, for
for

example

reed

reallya simple

with

containing 32

dents

38

dents

If

matter.

inch

per

this

perfectly

healds

suitable

render

used

are

with

reed

inch,

per

32

16

3^-32~T'
or

16

filled to 3 missed.

drafts

Probably
drawn

as

the

follows
5

best

result

will

obtained

be

repeats of full draft

filled and

""

""

""

j"

missed
"

*"

filled

PAKT

SHEDDING

Two

is

1
")

16

warp

"

5
^

Total

if the

OE

respectivelyknown

as

"

DIVIDING

closed

missed.

III

involved

principles are

"j

"

THE

in

and

"

WAEP

shedding
open."

which

In the

are

former,

SHEDDING

Ill

the mechanism

Two

of each
to

are

threads

condition
line
move

some

of

of

shed

depth

the warp

Fig. 9,

where

the warp

is also

only

Under

to

this

bottom

the

and

A
with

down, before

once

shed

of this kind

rising and

to

the

twice

equal to

space

represents the

to

top shed, it is necessary

up

made.

tions
posi-

controllingwarp
line.

through

stationary bottom

See

be

can

of

the upper

required,once

selection

have

form

to

the

irrespectiveof

first,by giving motion

positionof

in order

hence,

fresh

level

level after

followingpick.

form

to

are

19

threads

warp

general use

shedding

that

the

in

are

of weft,

for the

occupy

methods

produce closed
those

pick

WARP

THE

employed placesall

the insertion

they

DIVIDING

OR

bottom

is said to

fallingtop.
line of

warp,

FiaO.

h the

rising and

space

passed through.
with

others

summarised

absent
a

"

space

the

of

most

not

"

an

its

relative

suitable

time

for

upon

3rd,

of

the

defects
with

by moving

consumes

the

making

make

more

pared
com-

be

may

other

any

change,

high speeds ; 2nd,

warp
it

to

the

showing

arrow

foregoing principle is

twice

; and

that

Ist, compared

others, because

namely,

the

use

strain

unequal

excessive

an

in

about

manifestly is

great and

If

follows

as

it takes

method
and

fallingline,and

it

it

puts

through

power

than

compensating principleis
a

fallingthread

help

to lift

rising one.
A

few

machines
The

tappets, all
act

second

in the

method

single-lift

above
of

dobbies

and

Jacquard

manner.

forming

closed

shed

consists

in

MECHANISM

20

imparting
which

upward

an

form

is to

movement

after the insertion

line is raised

level

when

of

points
shed

an

upper

and

which

show

of shed"
a

to

shed.

closed

warp

lines of

the

centre

bottom

line,then,

lowered, and
the

therefore

highest

Fig.

10

represents

line,h

and

an

thread

the distance

in

d and

centre

are

upward

arrows

the

equal

to

an

lowest

the
respectively

are

shed,

open
of

and

the
line

warp

the

movement

namely, half

the

line is

the warp

equal downward

an

form

between

open

lower

downward

the

half-way

is the

is

that

part

portionof

to that

pick,the top

VING

line, and

top

threads
of

WE

movement

the

those

to

bottom

OF

depth
half in

and

direction.
with

Compared

the

foregoing it

will

found

be

superior

g-^n.

"

s-'^^C

"

"--

Mt
"

a--^
Fia.

in several
the

upon

of

successive

thread
on

the

is

travelled

by

is to

the
warp

other

hand,

being

Woodcroft,
all centre

shed

it is

; but

only
the

in

to

2nd, the

half

two

that

balanced

unsteady

very

stationarybottom
and
oscillating,

the

dobbies

exceptional to

find

an

by

2 ;

movement

this

for

the

3rd, a rising

fallingone

In

in opening

former,
:

of

but,

is caused

by

respect it is

plan.

few

and
has

system

as

motion.

constant

shed

is

warps

put

between

occupied

the

is

equal that

not

time
of

strain

thread

every

picks, it does

certain extent

inferior to the

with

shed

shed

centre

distance

of

1st, although considerable

stationary bottom
a

10.

by giving motion

warp

insertion

the
a

respects

not

other

tappets, together

Jacquards, give
many

advocates

ordinary tappet

this kind

to-day ;

constructed

to

MECHANISM

22

the

enable

to

positionsbefore again settingthe

Open

tappets, the

Knowles

the

by

motion,

their

original

in motion.

loom

obtained

is

shedding

PART

in

them

replace

to

weaver

VING

WEA

OF

ordinary

of

use

dobbies, and

some

few

Jacquards.
of

Many

classified either
both
is

as

either

arrested

Such

shed

for the

one,

formed

be

can

at

again carried

and

midway

bottom

upward

to

semi-open

are

or

the top.

begins

movement

of

expeditiouslyas

as

of

line of the former

movement,

one

be

cannot

compounded

are

top line

the

from

the

to

pass

motions

stationary bottom

The

threads

retained, but

closed, but

or

open

principles.

shed

shedding

best-known

our

the

with

ends

and

open

an

.--l-;:;:-S
downward

through

movement

is converted

threads

from

of the

former

the

strain

true

open

is not

upward

one

in the

same

are

the

top

at

at

the

instant

the

time, but

same

equally distributed

so

those

plane as

in

as

shed.

the

Fig.

Jacquards

12

is the

point where

threads

that

are

succeeding pick, d
of

line

all reach

them

an

downward

and

certain

dobbies

form

sheds

of

foregoingdescription.
In

they

upon

Double-lift
the

into

the bottom

the arrested

and

movement,

downward
to

through threads, and

for the

followingpick.

are

is

movement

part of

form

and

stationary bottom,

arrows

that

of

the

top

showing
threads

the

top line,

stopped
line

in

for

all
the

the movement

which

are

to

lift

SHEDDING

Ill

On

p. 4

it is stated

are

capable

shedding.

It

and

are,

that

of

what

WARP

THE

the

of

those conditions

what

respects healds

tions,
condi-

form

perfect

most

to consider

23

certain

healds, under

giving

remains

now

in

DIVIDING

OR

fail to

general

meet

requirements.
Healds

threads

warp

order.

will

be

the heald

shaft

that

If the

down

clearlyunderstood

by

how

shaft

number

entire warp

the
when

in the

24
no

warp

we

they

are

of

are

either

Where

threads

can

are

Healds

the

vertical

be

moved

point is

owing

go,

back

pull will
also

lines

to

shafts

not

and

elaborate

be exerted

slight,is
moved

to

machine

the

upon

limited

be

must

to

lines
extent.

or

threads,
that

motion
a

lateral

good

floral

employed.

the warp

them, for

which

curved

shedding

detrimental
at

and

general work

for

geometrical

right angles to

at

than

more

contain

may

character,in which
to

are

more,

separate order,

any

healds

20 to 24

production of patterns

for the

connected

be

used

only present

or

placed
so

even

in

of

from

at

or

the warp

point

set

36,

are

required a Jacquard
be

must

less

absent

however

They

the

govern

front and

is reached

healds

weak

suitable
or

are

must

impossibleto

trade

threads

many

flowing

effects

the

reducing

required to

the

this limit

worsted

the

when

more

in concert

move

proportion,but

in

it is

which

hence

only

are

and

in

find

here

to

number

the

without

shafts

increased

trade

how

matter

same

loom.

shafts,but

employed,

of

occupied between

the cotton

In

the

reference

where

must

is reduced

each

be

great space

in

is moved.

on

must

threads

many

reached, beyond

soon

up

of

large number

and

threads, the number

warp

when

employed

calculations,pp. 13-17,

shows

whenever

be

constantly move

This

of

any
on

only

can

ment,
move-

weaving.

varying velocityto

corre-

MECHANISM

24

far

spond, as
Although

this

shedding,

still strain
the

much

be done

as

patterns,
because

rule, best
those

or

only

proaches
ap-

warp

reduce

to

slower

move

of

systems

the

as

warp.

it

the work

as

as

to

limited

the

few

The

of

known

are

former

two

of

production
weft

picks of

number

with

shedding

dobbies.
for

adapted

having

heald

for

repeat,

motions

these

patterns of

to

be

can

than

more

short

picks

16

repeat.

Dobbies

than

than

12.

results
motions

they

shafts

also

are

have

to

are

motion

they

appliances.

If

healds

length

No

shedding
in

to

to

with

less

suit
will

motion

in

and

wear

the

leave

them

fabric.

These

manufacturer

are

shedding

than
be

other

made

to

stationaryfor

requirements

put less strain

best

the

capable of

tear
can

more

tappet

all

action,and

more

for

if

simplestof

of

or

the fabric.
the

upon

give a greater output,

finished

the

are

speed, and

less power,

consume

defects

any

of time

any

that

properly constructed, they

at

when

conveniently employed

steady,certain

are

length of

to

generally

remembered

obtained, for they

liftinga heavy weight

move

used, and

be
be

can

respect

frequentlyemployed

be

Still it must

barrel

in

unlimited
practically

are

pattern, and

or

all

lines,so

motions, and

advantageously used
to

should

the

upon

in

increases

lower

parts generallyused

tappets, barrel

are,

and

part

tension

equal

not

rapidly

upper

VING

increases.

The
as

is

latter

possiblehealds

as

the

possible,with

as

WE

OF

warp,
fewer

cause

all -important

ai"d tell greatly in

siderations
con-

their

favour.
Tappets

"Tappet,
to

cam,

those

and

wiper

are

names

given

irregularpieces of mechanism,

nately
indiscrimito

which

SHEDDING

Ill

DIVIDING

OR

rotary motion

is

the

for

given

of

purpose

slidingcontact, reciprocatingmotions
When

is to

the rod

continuous, the

Tappets

terms

made

are

parts of the

outside
a

end

the

tappet

Position

framing.

ent
differ-

on

over

the shaft

shafts;

the

of

if motion

fixed

and

end

levers.

intervals

; but

are

under

one

near

and

used."

wipers are

or

namely,

"

producing, by

rods

in

great variety,and

loom

under, but

centres;

cams

in

25

series of lifts,with

pieceis generallycalled

of rest, the
is

receive

WARP

THE

mainly

is, however,

which

questionof convenience, although the leading ideas

it

govern

and

the

When

They

end

act

in

of

the work

to

used, tappets

of

parts,

be

done.

are

generally

are

simplest

loom.

have

that

those

ways;

merely

have

tappets

handiness

space,

be

to

are

different

construction

floor

performing

5 shafts

one

elaborate

of

manner

than

more

of

economy

best

placed at
in

are

and

rotary

compound

motion, but

some

partly

movement,

Tappets differ also in principle

rotary, partlyoscillating.
"

some

are

negative, others

positive.

are

only capable of acting on

the

them

; and

down,

lift them

to

or

mechanism
but

movement,
directions

positivetappet

without

the

aid

Figa 13, 14, 18, 26,

In

tappet, both
centre
on

at

a, d

Fig. 13
of

healds

fulcrum

pin

c, d ;

h^ h'

cords
are

the

treadle

the

and

tional
addi-

motions
the

pull

to

opposite

the healds

in both

the tappets with

show

are

two

carries
as

treadles

their

named.

positionsabove

ordinary negative

an

tappet shaft

platesact

passing from
cords

controls

plates of

d, d'

e, each

which

/,/', upon

straps and

c,

on

either

impart

to

of the

two

are

fixed

are

27

in each

requisiteconnections

as

secondary appliances.

of

and

so

is

negative one

in all such

added

be

must

healds

exactly in

treadles
an

that

antifriction

they

rotate

cZ,dl

straps connected

to

to

move

roller

; g, g

heald
the

the

are

shafts
upper

Fia.

13.

PART

SHEDDING

III

and

shafts,

screwed

shown.

to

When

similar

downward

observed

that

tappets

is

and

depressed by

and

wound

heald

of

lift

to

If

tappets

is to elevate

to

Various

the

regard

to

broken,
them.

the

and

warp

If the dwell

the

or

pause

opened

defects

pass
of

harsh

movement

over

moves

and

warp,

or

enters

is caused

be

due

bad, threads
of

tappet is unsuited

healds.

sink

or

If shedding

it.

instead

over

shape

quires
re-

by

closed without

will also be

to

it

shaft to raise

the shuttle

will

being

another, also by

than

of each

warp.

space

shedding

slay'smotion, selvages will

shuttle

tappet-

breaks

and

through, so

more

is

to

insufficient

Unequal

movement

(seeFig. 27).

common

strains
of

shaft

are

over-shedding,or making

are

tappet is faultyin form, the

imparts

of motion

under, breaks

of

fabric,the last-named
a

their

less

pass

level where

the

tion
applica-

positiveaction

this

to

move

mistimed, the
to

the

healds

result

shuttle

end

one

negative action
by

or

wide;

is the

regulatingthe

all warp

more

stronger pick.

elevating one

the

sinking

rollers,springs,or weights

frequent

it should
a

is

are

too

for the

and

roller Ic

from

therefore

shaft

positiveone

the direction

most

Under-shedding
threads

shafts,and

reverse

separation

provided

into

placed above

defects

shedding, the

versd

the

straps.

are

the

fixed below

vke

heald

one

is unwound

risingone,

tappet is converted

of rollers and

not

A;',
or

treadles

entirely to

as

it will be

; but

due

being

are

impart

lift either

to

power

ings
bear-

the treadles

healds

pulleys. Thus,

roller

freelyin

connections

the

treadle,strap

upon

is made

no

motion

latter

connections

upper

under
to

tappet has

healds, the

or

the

27

peripheries of

in motion

are

movement
a

the

shaft ft,
working

alternatelydepressed,and

WARP

THE

respectively to

rollers A;,Ic set-screwed

as

DIVIDING

OR

under
to

caused, and

of its
All

the

when

working

face

culminate

in

i
i

03

Fig.

14.

MECHANISM

30

tie-up;

treadle,and

each

Eeading

up

horizontal

which

healds

line

line, the

vertical

show

intersection

WE

VING

PART

each vertical line represents

first,

the

in

OF

heald

shaft.

crosses

at

be

to

are

and

zontal

line,the order

in

tappet

points of

the

moved

pick ;

III

for

one

hori-

reading across

one
lifting

of

^.__.

shaft

for

repeat of the

is obtained.

only

acts

As

on

The
is

15.

only

that,

the

in

lines

horizontal
instead

difference

of vertical

lines

of

picks to

between

latter, the

first of

simple

the

number

gives the

number

repeat.

spouces between

second

figures
and

vertical

the

treadles

respectivelyrepresent

matter

"

the

shafts

and

that

namely,

of

obtaining the

used

of weft

heald

to

position

of

Fig. 17),
in their

when

forced

the

shed

all

bowl
the

into

the

of

of

of lifting

picks to

its

the last

of

from

parts

pick of

shuttle,3f

treadle

shuttle,to
"

fabric

last

are

be

front

levers,and

tappet

a, the

to

to

position in the

above-named

front of

shuttle

distance

the

upon

little

necessary

along

from

arrangement

working positions. Assume

to

is

measured

weft

shaft ; the

6, fell of cloth

depth

; its distance

treadle

where

the

It

edge
it enters

number

attention.

ascertain

time

order

point requires

next

more

16.

the

be

to

seen

repeat.
The

Fia.

is thus

points named

five

signing
de-

when

the

first and

healds, and

deep

taken

be

of the lines themselves.

The

at the

shaft,horizontal

tappet, and

Fia.

tappet plate

one

one

readings must

pattern

pick
the

(see
shown
be

1^"

; c, fell of cloth

bowl, llj";
fulcrum,
heald
of

",

point

19f.

Then

; and

19-25

11-25

10

: :

3*33

: :

fulcrum
with

of connection
3375

part

to

healds

M25

1-94" which

of

centre

treadle

to

3*33"

hi

lift of

the

equals the

lift

tappet
When

tappet is placed

levers

bowl,

of

top lever, 30", .-.

and

5-75:

connection

2-75

also

85

"

fulcrum

"

:3-93"

30

22*5

fall of

3*93

shaft,

top lever

; ",

fulcrum

lift of

lever

top

2*947"

front

to

to

to connection

3*477"

19.

; c, fell to heald

strap, 5f

M25

::

and

front; 5, fell

at

heald

^, treadle

3-477

6-5::

tional
loom, addi-

Figs. 14, 18,

shed, 2f

to

of

connection, 6 J" ; /, treadle

J" ;

22

end

in

seen

the

fulcrum

treadle

to

the

at

\\" deep

it enters

lever

J" ; d^ top

centre

shuttle

when

of shuttle

fulcrum

required, as

are

a, is

Fig. 18,
8

shaft, 10"; d^ treadle

heald

front

to

WEAVING

OF

MECHANISM

32

at

the

with

heald;
treadle
of

lift

tappet required.
is

Fig. 19
method
to

the

last:

fulcrum

is the

strap, 19";

heald

to

shuttle

fulcrum

treadle

shaft,8"

and

up

centre

with

top

down

d, top lever

fulcrum

to

with

top
is

to

of

to

treadle

bowl, 11";

lever, 26"; ^,
therefore

ones,

equal.

find tappet lift

To

"

19

: :

20'5

1*25

26:

11

: :

it is connected
::

2-5"

2*5

the

work

unnecessary

2-7

to

lift of heald.

2*7"

with

It is desirable
of

shaft

of heald

movement

correspond

front; 5, fell

at

top lever

connection

to

levers, which

bottom

heald
6,

the

tappet is preciselysimilar

fulcrum

connection, 20 J"; /, treadle

gy

positiveshedding,but

IJ" deep

; c, fell to

shuttle,4"

of

front

lift of

obtaining the

of

for

arrangement

an

the

1*1"

that
be

fall of

at

the

point

where

tappet treadle.
lift of tappet.

shed

done

breakage

top lever

of

shall be

will

as

allow, in

warp.

This

small

as

order
matter

the
to

nature

prevent
does

not

Fia.

18.

and

overlookers

from

receive

deserves, probably because

increases

for
is

as

the

example,

from

attention

the

fail

realise

space

closed shed

warp

if lifted 3"

representedby 4, but

PART

managers

they

of the

square

VING

WEA

OF

MECHANISM

34

or

to

that

strain

passed through.
is lifted

2",the

it

If,

strain

4",the relative strains

.^_."o

FlQ.

are

as

9 and

to be similar
one

running

former
the

the strain fourfold.

pick,the

for

construction,and

in
at

having

time

hence
respectively,

16

increases

shed

19.

180, the
shed

forming

strain of

one

other

4", and
a

shed

will be

doubling
If two

are

200
the

to

making
picks

latter

being

looms

in

both

are

size of

assumed

similar fabrics,

per

one

tho

of

minute,
3" in
looms

that of the other

depth,
f

as

the

of

SHEDDING

Ill

TW

if^
available
32
12
*

for

of

o^

part of

3^

WIT

9 units of work

Tiir

moving

THE

DIVIDING

OR

WARP

minute,

part of

WB-'T

35

minute,

heald.

in the

performed

of

^^.^j-part

minute.

"*-'^

"

relative

Or

strain
3

2 40

""

""

"

"

second

per

266-6

39-99.

64.

60
4

240

39*99:

64

following simple practicaltest

may

::1

1*6.

60

The

demonstrating
cloth

of

healds

at

point 5

35" from
which

second
at

10"

is

mark

from

and

the

second, and

found

that

first.

In

the

by

at h ;

the

at

second

and
space

weaving, warp

is

hang

over

2" at

twine

5, then

make

lift it

to

mark

third

first

the

and

it will

times

as

the beam

c,
a

between

marks,

pulledfrom

at

make

c ;

continue

the spaces

is four

vertical

rule

placea

third

it to

\\

say

drawing pin at point a,

rule ; and

Measure

second

lift the

on

h.

at

end

twine

inch

piece of twine,

and

ordinary table

an

end, allow

one

twine

a, and

upon

the twine

upon

the

the fourth

to

to

of

fell

equal 35",

to

edge

in

use

from

distance

r.est h

Take

the other

mark

".

rest

weight

fasten

back

to

the

c, 10" ; let the

top represent back

yards long, tie

Assume

above.

(Fig. 20)

fell to

from

the

of

be

wide

as

in the

be

the
same

proportion.
All mention
the

assumption
and

same

of
was

vibratingbars
that

therefore

both

the bars

has

been

looms

were

would

act

omitted, because
structed,
similarlycon-

in

preciselythe

manner.

The

distance

between

centre

of

shaft

and

thin

part of

MECHANISM

36

tappet varies

OF

according to

its

WE

VING

PART

the

positionand

Plain

round.
ei

placed

the

picks to

tappets
shafts

the

under

^J

IJ".

average

Tappets

3, 4, and

for

round

the

to

placed

similarly
2" to

from

vary

2J". If, placed

loom

for

end,

3, 4,

or

3".

2^"

to

Above

the

round,

to

increased

Woodcroft

being
for

diameter

picks,
for

and

siderably
con-

size ;

in

the

at

picks, from
platesare

picks

17" in
16

to

larger

still

higher picks.

Em

The
motion
to

CM

be

to

the

of

nature

imparted

is. manifestly

healds

such

that

the least strain

will

be

put

methods

Two

warp.

available

are

for

the

of

this

accomplishment
object,
are

the

upon

both

when

and

combined,

as

far

as

possible,the best results

will

making
short
maximum

forming

shed

will be

allowed

; and

First, by

follow.

as

the

pause

as

the
practicable,

of

time

for

secondly,by moving

MECHANISM

33

it is

of

the

in

stationary

equals "

the

it enters

at

move;

WE

OF

shuttle-box.

opposite

revolution, and

making changes in

the

is the

positionof

healds
of

PART

it leaves

at

warp;

VING

allowed

time

10

at

From

; from

5 to 9

to

for

equals

revolution, during

which

it;

all healds

remain

must

stationary.
A
has

dwell
been

of

advocated

fabrics,and
good

iC^

Tk^

,^^

"j^^

but

different

Lancashire
have

for the

only J

Cover

bowl

at

last

The

as

borne

in mind

making

but

has

upon

the

The

writer

of

steadier

this its diameter

on

the

use

of

pick for

the

from

by

found

of

having

the

to

with

few

has

dwell

in

now

fabrics with

other

means,

named

elevate

to

undue

motion

good

in

use
cover

but

that

will be

to

the

treadle

tappet

treadle

refers

depress

or

friction

than

is of little

large roller.

If"

warp

dwell.

points

tappet surface
a

re-

tappets made

many

majority of tappets

production

setting up

time
is

changes

strain

3^", the

works
one,

rendered

diameters

smaller

greatestnumber

small

ones

of

too

in

being

picks to

of

tact.
con-

better

and

points
but

importance,provided

is not

The

the

at

Generally speaking,a large roller

gives

that

later stage.

employed

without

The

obtained

be

can

dealt with

of

appears

21.

pick.

this

be

duced,

loom-makers,

exceeding \

requiring
it must

examined

by

heavy

unnecessarilylong,for

is increased.
Fig.

pick

for

others

cover,

for

of

the

incline

steep by the

common

used

beyond

use

with

repeat.

vary

tappets
A tappet-

SHEDDING

Ill

maker

has

the

upon

fall at times, and

A

DIVIDING

carefully consider

roust

roller

OR

motion

of

and

depressed parts,

wheel.

It

what

than

less

or

is self-evident

into

that

39

aatifrictioD

an

they

or

those

formod

more

WARP

effect

healds,

speeda, other

tappet has its surface

THE

will

rise and

intended.
aeries

of elevated
teeth

resembling

jxnnf could

he

in

made

to

e
follow
it is

the

consequence,
between

space

tappet

between

use

; therefore

where

centre

the

minute

most

impossible to

magnitude

tbe

ita

it is
two

surface
extreme

variations

of

such

point, for

that

baa

an

antifriction

point abould

capable

of

teeth, and
at

one

points

surface

position but

roller,which

or
filling,

time.

of

not

has

its
as

partly filling,the

touching

Whatever

touched

hut

be, is employed, and,

also

so

two

parts

space

is lost to

the

of

exists
pause

OF

MECHANISM

40

healds, and

of the
The

which

only plan by
make

to

the

I'equired to
reduced

and

allow

to

this

roller centre

move,

to

begins

one

rise

the

fall before

or

exactly

this the

do

part

be

difficultycan

move

to

for

WEAVING

size

healda

size of tappet

of

roller.

If

constructed

is

overcome

the

as

another.

be

must

is

tappet

for

are

roller it

one

"

,--"'

will

""-,

work

never

with

of any

one

has

Enough
the

\ of

to enable

Fig.

is

22

for

cloth.

down,
and

"[""
I

is

28

''"'" ^'

down
for

positive tappet

the

down

for

23

each

one

three

and

two

pick.

which

24

thread

and

up

6-pick pattern

weave

Figs.

four

two

struction.
con-

twill,one

up.
are

and

up,
**

25

twills,one

to

Fig.

two

negative

three-thread

of

ita

tappet constructed

plain

said

the student

with

proceed

to
"

been

requirements

tappet

other

dimensions.

^1

,^.

torily
satisfac-

as

Fig.

panies
accom-

it.
Assume

the

thinnest
and

part,

treadle

Describe

tappet

3"

bowl
of

3",

I J' from

dwell

in

of

and

shaft

tappet

touching

howl
=

lift of

be

(Fig. 32) equal

is

2|"-h3"

to

tappet

of

centre

of

to

pick,

in diameter.

3"

centre

radius

cloth

have

circle

when

1^"+

to

bowl

between
bowl

plain

li"

5|",

and

radius
centre

thinnest

2|",

add

describe

to
a

the

to

of

tance
dis-

treadle

part

of

tappet

that

the

lift of

second

circle

i.

SHEDDING

IK

When

in

action

the

these

lines.

orbetween

because

parts,
lines

of

of

and

4, 6, for

into

parts,

equal

in

space

between

of

its

3, 4, 5,

used

repeat, by

into

three

equal

Space

6.

for

equal

two

moving

1, 3,
shaft

jj

,-""

"~-^

'^,

,'
*-

,'

"

^'

.,

"s

',

equal

Dec

"*,
'

upon

lines,
the

to

circles

a,

both

touching

divide

be

to

on

'

each.

diameter

and

is

into

works

lines,

of the radial

one

any

1, %

second

semicircle

lines

first,

radial

say

scribe

the

number

any

picks

pick,

the

picks,also by

space

Divide

1, 3, for

circles

each

41

constantly

the

has

to

WARP

Space

for dwell.

spaces

bowl

pattern

pick.

THE

Divide

pick, and

first

allowed

treadle

radial

equals ^

3, 4,

DIVIDING

Subdivide

draw

equals |
for the

the

4.

1,

parts, and

b,

OR

periphery

into

equal parts corresponding

in

number

division
From

1, 3

each

section

those

to

namely

"

point
the

on

in
6.

periphery

to its diameter

into

velocity
hne

the

to

describe

point, where
centre

then
and

of

heald.

the

from

taking

circle

radial
treadle

those
the

of the

purpose

Through
concentric
line
bowl

is cut
at

of

each

imparting
point

with

by

in rotation, describe

be divided

unequal

an

Consider

curved

on

line A
pendicula
per-

the diameter

on

h.

a,

different

points, beginning
others

drop

semicircle

line ; the latter will then

for the

unequal spaces

^*'

""

of inter-

one,

each

parta of the
the

outer

circles

the

aa

lift,

circle,

equal

in

MECHANISM

42

diameter

To
the

find

the

periphery
be

the

tart

construction

points
the

to
as

be

circle,and

treadle

of

centre

the

required
to

at

swings

half

bowl
the

in
on

between

lines

touching

where

the

the

tappet

question

of

heaJd

removing

Figs. 22, 23, 24,

its fulcrum
bowl

and

is

rise

to

centres

lift ; and

the

and

pin, and

and

should

be

causes

bowl

and

same

tappet

the

straight line,

motion,
in the

25.

tappet, relatively

fall in

best

is

centre.

latter, to change continually ; but

approximate
and

fulcrum

merely

line

from

arc

clearly shown

of contact

movement

plane

bowl

ia

tappet

hence

of each

draw

tappet,

done

remains

of

shape

an

surplus metal,

to

VING

bowl, and

stationary,describe

What

the

treadle

WEA

completed.

are

to

the

to

OF

the

treadle

horizontal

centres

should

SHEDDING

Ill

or

the

at

in

coincide,

then

lift aimed

the

Treadles

plates.
of

point

its

DIVIDING

OR

treadle

WARP

THE

will neutralise

to

constructing the curved

in

be

must

revolution,

healds

the

or

extent

some

surfaces

with

contact

43

at

tappet

will

of the

have

every

jerky

movement.

In order
shaft

back

of

platesare
back

of

to

If

which
in

difference
If

for

equals ^'

all

each

will

wind

tappet plate gives out

off

or

on

negative tappet

in certain

healds
that

of

the

two

teeth

small

bottom

shaft

bevel

facing,for

loom

the

a.

to

back

the

front

size,and

the

in lift.

at

the

they

by

properly

structed,
con-

tension

same

should

much

strap

at

made

be

its

as

It

wheel

pinions e, e',slided
of

is much

Jamieson

Fig. 26.

large bevel

the purpose

of

one

are

right angles to

at

one.

that

its

Tappet

introduced

its axis

tappet shaft h has

front

cones,

districts of Lancashire.

with

of

up.

Jamieson's

than

exactly as

takes

or

of

at

it is usual

so

from

difference

part of the tappet'srevolution

every

is made

of

it than

kept

is at the

plate

plates are

straps will be

tappet

shaft, hence

greater

front

stepped rollers,called

the

front

the

pin

shaft

front

more

from

if all

it,

enters

than

fulcrum

of

the

is at

reason

lower

back

back

leveragegives the

heald

so

lift to

is further

shaft connection

shaft,for

than

fulcrum

treadle

to

less instead

it

average

sink

treadle

connection

increased

an
an

on

be

the shuttle

accomplished
the

fulcrum

would

give

but

for the

the

movement

be

size and

one

where

higher and

cannot

loom,

point nearer

rise

must

this

; but

one

level

place warp

to

is

At
c

upon

driving c

to

the

under

placed

and

used

coincidingwith
its

rear

gear

shaft

the

end

into
a, with

one

of

their

in either direction.

PART

SHEDDING

III

shaft

(Fig.27)

in such
of

the

to

the

necessitates

parts of
The

the

to

short

of two

loom

are

consists

in

cast

relation

to

the

of the

bolts

Treadles

rest

above

arranged

for

treadles

act

tappet makes
of

platesunder

hand,

of each

piece,a
there

the bowls

lines

to

negative

space

of

niust

that

that

pick,so
be

can

woven.

changes

solid,and

by

with

positions,one

it is

is

there

are
no

other

springs or

are

fabrics

other

shafts

to

plates. By

to

and

one,

requiringtwo
with

twice

moved, and

slides the

the

lever

shiftinga

the second

weave

other

the

series

pattern.

Tappets

except

provided

be

chiefs,
handker-

as

is furnished

barrel

positivetappet (seeFig. 28) is

flanges above

hole is made

fabrics,such

lateral movement

be

the working

plates bolted

former,

tappet, and

bordered

Positive

loose.
the

alternate

on

solid

piece fewer

one

or
stripes,

same

plates as

instead

shafts down.

towels, cross
patterns in the

of

different

in

cast

working

appliancespull the

many

makers

arrangement

different patterns

other

the

This

bevels,but

if the

the centre

other,many

possible; but, on

as

drive

driving tappet

series

plates into

tappet is all

and

additional

piece;

one

similar

When

Some

the warp,

through

shaft

of

turning

risk

to

left unobstructed.

plateexactlyin

the

shaft.

framing,

horizontal

in every

If

47

employed

are

crank

or

it passes

end

use

tappet

together or

WARP

objectionablepracticeof placing the upright

fixing it

through

THE

wheels

bottom,

positionthat

DIVIDING

bevel

and

the

it, either from

resort

OR

in

between

required for

the

constructed
so

far

the
treadle

as

outer

similar

on-

minimum

and

bowl,

to

inner
leave

48

MECHANISM

for its easy

room

blocked
In

intersection

of

one

^"to

that

exceeding

of

chances

of it becoming

of dirt.

after

and

it is

the

common

finding the points

lines, as

concentric

describe

to

part

the

tappets

lift,and

the

VING

reduce

these

radial

40,

p.

(fEA

accumulation

an

between

on

diameter

out

add

practiceto

and

working,
by

setting

OF

of

plained
ex-

circles

round

each, of

treadle

bowl

by J", then

m
to

draw

which

lines

After
and
the

An

it

to

an

only

give

to

inward

shaft, and
one.

that

depth
bowl

inner

the

trace

run

and

at

points,

two

flanges.

outer

remains

the

peripheries

their

touching

add

to

necessary

the

required

strength

thickness

surface

and

for

against
curve

outward

on

the

curve

outside
on

the

flange equals
inner

flange

lifted

depressed

Ill

SHEDDING

DIVIDING

OR

THE

Woodcroft

1838

still largelyused

picks to

more

for

the

patented

positivetappet

and

heavy work,

pattern

49

Tappet

WooDCROFT's

In

WARP

also

where

that

eight

is
or

required.

are

5
Fig.

It consists
or

thus

entire

when

plate. By changing

forming
varied

correspondingsections
each, which,

depressor on

the

be

of

29.

at

new

small

combinations

cost,

the
of

provided

cast

with

an

elevator

placed together,form
relative

positionsand

sections,patterns
the

picks

in

the

may
new

OF

MECHANISM

so

of sections

pattern equal the number

two

or

full patterns

more

in

example,
section

4, 8,

of

equals ^-^
picks

16

or

be

In

Fig. 29

Dark
a

sections

picks,new

risingshaft,and

with

the

revolve

number

holes

until

1
2

reading

all

heald

shaft

number

the tappet is
When

position;
all

the

direction

before

elevator
and

design

of

end

the

to

with

you,

in

the

position
with

follow

then

and

put the

projectionsc,

together.

similar

from

are

the left side of number

the

from

between

d to lock

circles of sections

number

in

are

eight

correspond

to

direction

wheel

an

pressor.
de-

sections

right-hand

design paper)

depressor,on

the

opposite

an

previously passed through

the

on

number

As

round

placed

at

provided. Lay

ring (Fig. 31)

flange below

crank

bolts

of

Continue

above

fixed

in

if

(Fig.30) indicate

tappet and

shaft,place the tappet

number

each

the

crank

(number

be

to

bolt

of

If

the

to

must

of

position

other

any

sinking shaft

loom,

sections

they

sections

same

elevator, and

an

squares

its motion.

of

of

used, eight
and

necessary,

the

round"

pattern of 2,

any

slipof designpaper

blank

are

squares

the

used.

the form

the

on

squares

be

must

shows

with

For

plate.

to

that

plate,or

on

pattern has

part

full

"16

as

made

if

suitablyarranged, buji
of

in

plate,therefore

can

VING

contained

are

known

tappet

WE

laying

to

its

inner

form

slipsof design paper,

the

flange

outer

and

Proceed

1.

othet*
for

one

employed, always beginning immediately

the

of

ready

tappet

shaft, lay

first

plate.

Bolt

all

together and

for the loom.

revolves
the

in

second

the

direction

same

section

on

the

as

the

right

of

1.

tappet fixed

at

the

left-hand

end

of

loom,

to

revolve

SHEDDING

Ill

in

opposite direction

an

be

to

DIVIDING

OR

first

placed

and

the

face

side down,

in the

second

the

between

groove

the

blank

upon

section
or

to

THE

crank

treadle

right of

bowls

51

shaft,requiresa ring

plate on

laid to the

WARP

cannot

the tappet

wheel,

the first,and
made

be

to

all
run

plates.

two

-L
1

Jl

"

"

"

"

FiQ.

If turned

section
As
made

on

in the
the

left of number

mentioned
to

produce

on

open

81.

direction

same

p.

li
II

as

cranks, lay the second

1.

21, Woodcroft's

shedding, but

complicated,for, in place

of

the

tappet
parts

are

is

now
what
some-

using duplicatesof

two

MECHANISM

52

WE

OF

plate,eightdistinct

sections for each

namely, ordinary

sections

PART

are

necessary

sinkers, riser dwells

left hand

risers,right and

VING

sinkers, right and

and

risers

"

left hand
and

sinker

dwells.
Each

is

section

in

cleariyshown

Fig. 32

1 is

number

5
Fio.

riser ;

5,

dwell

2,

sinker

3,

right-hand riser
; and

With
described

8,

the

left-hand

6,

riser ;

left-hand

4,

sinker

riser

7,

dwell
sinker

right-handsinker.

the above
on

32.

exceptionsplatesare
preceding pages.

laid in the

manner

MECHANISM

54

solid

and
plates,

leave

to

few

the

OF

there is a constant
in

tappet

which, springs and

weights

pin of the treadles

to

hold

them

of various

fiftyyears

as

irom

1840

; Knowles's

been

patented

shedding

of the best ; his chain

(Fig.34) pushed
each

at

end

sinks one,

containing all
Both

picks.
piece of
of

elbow

an

in

picks,and

into

the

bearings attached

/, weighted

which
the

has

this

leaves

it,as

in the

followingmanner

shaft

drives

with

slide

in
boss

that enters

the

at i

on

wheel

proportion

compounds

rightof
The

the left

carrier

parts

their

all the

even

6, that

tappet.

is elevated

"

wheel
3 ;

the

of

two

wheel

in

teeth

with

one

the
in

eccentric

and

latter
the

collar

to oscillate

(Fig.35), on
m,

to ^,

roller into the

drawing, but

stud

round

to

tappet is made

Pinion

by

platei ;

slot in tappet

the

flat

the uppermost

is upon

one

"

end, forming part

aty, is lifted by

the

on

^,

two

chain, and

the

upon

latter,being fulcrumed
at

rollers in

imparts a corresponding motion

projectionh

positionshown

collars h

shaft,a collar

the

its outer

at

one

connected

are

other

to

but falls by gravity if a collar

roller,
e

is

eight-sidedbarrels

round

lever ^, rests

side of barrel

the

is divided

passed

are

metal

odd

holds

time

same

chain

the

free to turn

are

The

places.

proper

the

at

also

have

and

latter

roller lifts

dates

NuttalFs

of rollers

long spindlesc, the

upon

others

Several

composed

than

more

invention

times, of which

flat links d,

by
and

is

for

used

Clarke's

1849.

different

at

'

been

motions.

from

fulcrum

Tappet

have

kinds

prevent

the

near

too

are

To

the shafts.

down.

Oscillating

Chains

for the treadles

threads

warp

attached

are

part

tendency

where

cases

VING

strain upon

put considerable

to

WE

the

crank

it gears
must

pinion.

be
A

4, they revolve

SHEDDING

Ill

stud

upon
a

A;,and

connection

second

As

bowl

goes
s

treadle
heald

round

with

pin /

in the

heald
croft

connections

of

entirelyupon
be rotated
is

Bowl

tappet.
number

any

to

(Fig.14)
s

times

in

pin

stud

keyed

t^ and

above

carries

tappet.

left^treadle

side of i,depress a
lift

and

framing

right,s

or

depress
those

to

below

of the chains

and

star

circular

each

wheels

flange 5

6 is inserted.
upon

n,

will roll

shaft,for

of

the

Wood-

platesi,i,

succession,its positiondepending

slide

has

the

on

the

to

placethe picksprogressivelyin

(Fig.35)

the top where

run

at /?, that

to the

similar

are

the construction

accomplished by

wheel

can

arm

84.

side of i, elevate

upper

loom

55

strap, and

under

if the tappet rocks

Pio.

along the

to

the

along

run

WARP

centred

tappet rocks, if

vibratingon

shaft ; but

lever

is fastened

the
will

THE

of eccentric

means

^, which

(Fig.34)
t

by

is made
arm

DIVIDING

OR

chain

Star

the

latter must

the fabric ; this

; thus

shown

wheels

barrel, and

the

slide

broken
^, 6,
as

are

at
spectively
re-

slide

MECHANISM

56

revolves, it carries

stud

e ;

of

and

time

this

VJNG

PART

of stars

notch

85.

takes

place,a

barrel

is turned

revolution.

The
that

every

alternatelyinto

Fio.

e,

WE

OF

advantages of

long patterns

this motion

of from

80

to

are

100

that

picks

it is
can

positive;
be

woven

SHEDDING

Ill

if

the

chain

the

because

is

centre

tappet

heavy

than

into

All

made.
that

can

floor,and

its
be

taken

driven

consists of two

parts

by

with

suitable

chains,

d^

the

keyed

upon

are

the

contained
end

turns

bearings, and

both

/, g

in the

same

are

movable

loom, fixed

the crank

shaft.

(Fig.36),which

employed

through

rate

shafts ;

heavy goods

in

of any

pinion from

required

the barrel

carrier,\ that

James

36.

parallelchain barrels,a,

provided

at

to

where

districts

in

Fio.

c,

for

suitable

more

patented by

tappet,

used

Nuttall, is also much

the

patterns

Chain

positive chain

Another

stand

all

for

the

lightfabrics.

Nuttall's

are

shaft,

that

parts;

used

it is

57

crank

the

'two

be

pins can
chain, but

by simply relaying the

WARP

above

placed

divided

is

bowls, collars,and

same

THE

DIVIDING

OR

spur

to

It
are

rotate

to

wheels, /, ^,

connected

by

direction.

The

small
chains

WE

coUara,

not

MECHANISM

58

of rollers and

eompoced

are

but

ownlUting tappet,
roller

opposite a
same

act

is shown

at

crumed
end

midway

here

collar

the other, for

on

time, and

which

OF

the

upon

permit

to

and

upper
The

lower

of

of

centres

not

well

so

of

a"

for

is ful-

lever

^, and

its

end

its forward

adapted

the

for practically
oscillator,
a

for

singlepick ;

the

it is

; but

elevate

cording

rear

is

long

to

the

long patterns

the

positivein

is

chain

of

to

ends

forward
and

action

as

required

ends

rear

their

elevate

to

for

of each

link

first to

the second

depress shafts

the

at

move

This

them.

strap attachment

be

mnst

jacks.

tappet is

lift shafts,and

chains

the

on

straight leTers, one

projectsslightlybeyond 6, but

enough

thoee

barrel

one

on

same

the

between

part

unlike

both

restingupon

VI NG

to

in

simple

construction.
,

Tappet

Tappets
crank

shaft

by

the crank

wheel

shaft ;

with

teeth

picks

wheel.
it

shafts; thus

four

times

proper

as

to

the

If 5

round,

picks

to

both

shafts

size,will

not

are

will

the

two

up

that

as

the

loom
in

120-t-5

tions
revolu-

will

wheels

the

to

not

carrier

revolve

ing
contain-

driving
But

teeth.

the wheels,
cases

crank

end, having

24

calculations.Part

tappet

on

one

the

on

tappet wheel

teeth

60

fixed,and
; in such

at

round,

that

gear

cause

if

"

120^-2

employed (seetaking

singlecarrier

teeth

tappet

smaller

4-picked tappet requires

many

form

is to drive

proportion equals the

the

two

froc^uontlyhappens

because

are

then

convenient, it is

whenever

the tappet and

on

put in another

or

120

wheels, and

large one

shaft,as

of the
a

spur

the

indirectly,from

driven, directly or

are

best to have

Driving

answer,

if not
or

of

carriers

XIX.).

in the

opposite

SHEDDING

Ill

direction
shows

to

wheel

shaft

shaft,

with

or

which

to

shaft
carrier

wheel

c,

of

will be

tappets

picks

shaft, because
shaft

wheels
the

to

round

largerone

to

by

wheel

from
crank

If 6

/.

the

on

40,

shaft

tions
revolu-

as

1
'

generally keyed
the

round

to

2, and

the

bottom

revolutions

of

of cranks.

those

It is not

are

given

respectively,the

80x40"4""
cloth

37

Fig.

37.

of crank

40x20

Plain

is

second

teeth

those

to

59

healds, but driven

tappet wheel

and

",

and/=40

80, d=20,

the

WARP

carriers.

two

motion

Fio.

THE

placed under

a,

6, bottom

same

DIVIDING

without,

one

the tappets

short

OR

unusual

drive
; the

gears

to

employ compounded

tappets having
intermediates
into the crank

large number

work
shaft

looselyon
wheel, and

intermediate
of
a

picks

to

stud, the
the smaller

'

6o

MECHANISM

one

into the

and

two

OF

tappet wheel.

driven

holted to the tappet and

part

thus

are

rule

the

is

tappet wheel

changed,but
by dividingthe tappet

the three
wheel

by

any

number

will

give the teeth for one pinion,the quotientwill give

other; the picks to the round
give the first driver,
the tappet wheel is the second ; thus,in a 16-picked

the
and

that will not

driving

two

be

cannot

found

be

remaining can

VING

There

As

wheels.

WEA

tappet, with
180

-M5

12

of 180

wheel

proof
^

--

12

"

16x180

fraction.

TW7.

revolutions

16

or

^r7i

"

l80-rl2

15x2,

as

answer,

be

16 must

^r.

20

^.

64.

16

with

fewer

than

the

numbers

and

intermediate

tappet wheels

to maintain

^30x24
proof
^

T.

For

wheels

are

Teeth

Example,
"

to drive

^are

If 20

12

20

rule

"

-.

16

if crank

pinion

"

in tappet wheel

to

120

tappet wheels

the round, what

are

r^TT1 ^u

"

"

^^y

wheels

used

intermediates

12

the

1
=

required?
"

will

requiredx pinion

pinion and

tappet of

be found

can

given,by

Picks

obtained

being fixed,
teeth in driving

64x180

Both

teeth

20

increased.
proportionately

be

must

16

"
.

1.

but the tappet wheel

12x2;

ratio,teeth in driven

to

20.

multipliedby 4, because the

and
been increased fourfold,

have

wheels

180.

16

assuming that a wheel

be used, any multipleof

cannot

into

15

16x180

But

divisor

12

Again,

The

"

(thepicks)and

15

for

teeth

into 16

12

"

leave

in the ratio of 2 to

1.

MECHANISM

62

tinction

under

merely

is

them,

over

becomes

at

or

of

one

healds, an

the

end

one

as

in

but

all the

work

to

describe

on

an

proceeding

be well

may

be

to

It has
move

done

the

should

by

in

the

action

journey

into

During

the

is needed

to

kept steady,nothing
strain

is

to

tension

pull

time

the

when

unaided

centre

and

In

shafts down
the

the

made

to

except

one.

short

time

of

nature

to

the

tappet

the

threads
up

to

of the

are

the

has

must

again brought
little or

moving

remarks

its

closed

the

of

the latter's action

exerts

tinue
con-

power

shaft

is

additional

any

especially

are

in both

cases

greatest power
shed

resist

shedding

motion.

Acting

and

ceases,

to

gear

motion

termination

can

this

aid;

under

or

shedding, where

open

the

outside

the tappet is

These

weights, spiralsprings,or

negative tappet

required,and

is

or

it,for if

oppose

motions

attached

set

its maximum

period of

reversing

Single acting

in

the

upon

be

can

over

of

until

the warp

upon

by other parts

are

however, be

part

of

an

until

more

Single

which

of

wasted.

power

applicableto
the

motion

acting.

without

that

maintained

and

force

under

an

motions,

that

reached, where

is

be exerted

no

these

direction

increasing force

use.

placed

may,

examination

begin immediately

shaft's

if it is

them.

one

case,

with

shafts

previouslyshown

been
shaft

being

spent

latter,each

the

simultaneously on

Before

placed

part is only capable of exerting force

former, each

act

but

used,

motions

Reversing

is

tappet

loom,

the

of

If

part

single acting; 5, compound

a,

singleshaft

is

motion

VING

position.

over

necessary.

grouped

WE

OF

line

such

at

strain

Motions

generally composed

elastic cords
heald

of

dead

(see Figs. 38, 39),

shafts,but

none

of

them

AND

OVER

IV

mechanically correct.

are

point, no

every

ceased

to

Undesirable

nearly approach

more

have

applied

not

shaft

to

if

obvious;

springs,and

favour

Their

work.

weights more

defects

they

are

are

unsteady, swinging

or

one

is

action

when

even

is

less free at

end,

and

has

or

when

rapid reciprocatingmotion

up,

at

power

is,weights nevertheless

than

much

to

set

equal

exerts

Jacquard shedding,

imparted
an

63

tappet is acting

this

ideal

with

met

the

as

our

for

invariably employed
but

weight

whether

matter

act.

MOTIONS

UNDER

quently
freis

swinging

prevented by confiningthe weights in grids,

considerable

friction results.

Another

of

use

time

which

weights

completed

in

of

part

has

fall,

object
the

that
the

have

short

to

move,

changes being completed

harness

the

to

who

say

they

in another

what

shorter

is allowed

account

which

result

sometimes

If

the

againstthe

required,and

motion

through

well-known

Those

this

on

rapidityof

one

body

raised

been

its movement.

slower

space

on

weights, viz.

dead

during

the

in

has

in mechanics

law

to

objectionbased

before

they

are

part.
said

been

respecting the

reversingmotions

functions

of

the

principleswhich

is

accepted as

^A^Ar

Fia.

true

their
a

action, it will

spiral spring

mechanism

for

spring

to

pull the

bottom

the
be

must

warp

shed

is

be

one

an

of

the

stretched

when

to

most

that
until

can

to

defective

well

it exerts

it controls

the

88.

govern
matter

easy

purpose

threads

lines

ought

tappet

level
is

be

show

that

pieces of
imagined.

sufficient force
with

the

top

inoperative;

or

and

MECHANISM

64

therefore

the

point, the

more

further
a

it exerts

casing

to

to

act, the

spring

force

OF

oppose
former

tappet
is

WEAVING

moves

is

heald

stretched, and

v%/^

that

part

of

the

from

that

greater

the

the

tappet.

exerting

On

its maximum

the

latter
power

OVER

AND

heald

shaft

in

least

power

IV

pull the

to

takes

place when

reversion
in

the

occurs

proportion

is reached

point
then
be

it exerts

it should
If

the

the

exerted

dead

inch

"

It
work
40

and

thus

done

inch

and

fabrics

other
and

to

that

as

exerted

to

upon

attempts made

moves

it.

with

to

lbs., the

-r-

power
force.

lbs., the

25

of

pounds.
force

equal

at all

points,

of

faults

shaft

is with

inch

pounds.

shafts

or

with

the

full force

for

weights

are

light and
than

more

they

the

spiralsprings,

in Lancashire

motions

any

readily fixed

voured
have, however, endea-

spring basis
of

following
problem
P

in

inherent

because

this

conditions

above

Inventors

solve

force

the

as

50

springs 125

the

The

of

1", and

lbs. its effective

10

the

movement

understand.

shaft

stretch

50

inch

under

requiring

introduce

weight

40.

appliance,probably
easy

such

pounds

extensivelyused

more

to

clearer.

capableof exertingthat

10x5
and

125

that

seen

during one

medium

where

a
spiral
stationary,

4", then

inch

of

equal

that

heald

10 X 4

pounds,

are

to

seen

weakest

rendered

shaft

of 10 lbs. exerts

Notwithstanding
they

is thus

by springs and

will be

heald

assumed

25x5

weight

is

and

needed,

is most

spring

force

wanted,

units

pounds

until

stretched

consumed

uniformly

it is not

power,
A

when

until it is

the

increases

put into

mean

of

when

Or

its force decreases

weakest,

point

that

stretched

movement

spring

be

this

If it is further

force.

and

power

hold

to

be

spring must

the

of

assumption

lbs. is needed

10

Immediately

strongest.

weights is made,

On

is needed.

force.

it should

this

oppositedirection,and

its effectiveness

its minimum

comparison

dead

be

the

of its increase

where

strongest where

65

MOTIONS

springcontracts,

that

to

UNDER

"

arranged

spring will

illustrate
:

so

two

not

of

be
the

MECHANISM

66

W"A

OF

Hahlo,

uaaing
bottom

motion
the

to

allowing

top

shed

the

ports

of levor
of

tt

aro

In
not

{Fig. 40)

spiral c

is fastunml

without

to

ia attached

by
or

by strap

as

upon

h,

wing

shown

to

motion

from

nut
at

d.

eccentric

the

an

consist

upper

screw

The

the

simple, and

They

and

/,

spring

is

which

to

patent

move

of order.

out
at

have

stretching

the

get

fulcrumed

regulate the tension,

V

shaft

conBtruction
liable

Haoson

"

Liebreich,

for

uc^ualdJBtance.

pabt

Motions

Sprisg-easisg

Mesxre.

VING

used

to

end

of

lower

whence

end

passes

OVER

IV

hook

to

g^ and

AND

UNDER

lever

with

connection

67

MOTIONS

is

made

again

at

point h.
A

heald
as

from

shaft
and

the

is connected

ascend

thick

side

eccentric

thin

side ; but

thus

prevents spring c from

of

winding
the

strap

position of

h" in

considerable
in

the

of

10

stretch

power

ordinary way.
1",

Thus,

lbs., but

force of

used

of 10

lOxf

Kenyon's
somewhat

in

different

Fig. 41

bolted
for

upon

moving

hooked

into

to

The
and
so

not

form

with

exert

lbs.

in

springs

former

the

17^

the

tion
assumpalso

of

force

motion

above

placed

strong
ends

or

of

back

d^ and

are

curved

back

from

and

provide

nuts

each

Chains

other

^,

are

nected
respectivelycon-

levers

pins i,y,and

fulcrum

in

acts

to

drag

weak.

too

parts of

hooked

and

farther

or

it

but

shafts.

bolts
to

nearer

is too

g^h ;

at

the

^, I straps

m.

of

depressed as
lifted

which

on

opposite

shaft

will
in

upon

partlyround

move

of

results

this

the

on

equally simple,

manner

chairs

the

to

pass

the

"

and

Under-motion

is

rail c,

as

chairs, a, 6, are

two

spring d

case

latter

motion

the

movement

compared

as

of

surface

that, for

ordinary spring

an

the

it upon

equalling the weight required,and

60

of

Kenyon's

In

The

/.

contrived

so

are

pull strap

stretchingin proportion to

eccentric

upon

saving

lbs.

of

5x10+10

equals

fore,
There-

a.

simultaneously,and

down

moves

wind

and

of

latter will

shaft, spring c will be stretched

used

end

outer

together,the

of

point

the

to

equals

all,for when

levers g^ h
its shaft
a

loss

of

pointsof

spring d

causes

rises

and

stretch

in

connection

to

falls,and

spring
n,

are

be

elevated

the distance
;

but

below

that
centres

is

68

of

the

pins i, y,

transferred
actual

stretch

of

pull a heald
For

is

centre

fulcrum

the

to

spring does
it

pins, with

the

at

Fig.

lbs. for
inch

spring balance

closed,and

inch

by

the

lbs. ; first inch

inch, 6f

6J

of

and
this

bowls,

lift,11^

consists

move

motion

another
can

be

the

lowest.

stretched

b"

conditions,
the

at

highest

actual

An

test

41.

the

as

ratio

shed

stress

opened

follows

of

"

Taken

shed,

inch, 8f lbs.

and

fifth

12|

as

5".

Closed

12

; third

inch, 6^ lbs.

Motions

reversing motions,

making

in the

lbs. when

lbs. j second

all based
in

lift of

37^

inch, 5| lbs.

class of

are

that

lbs. for

varied

stress

lbs. ; fourth

second

the

represent the force applied

gave

Compound

The

is

that

result

previouslyassumed

or

lbs. when

10

with

but

shaft,

the

upon

increasing stress

not

the

equal 2f xlO+lO

made

is

PART

passed,an

found

was

springd 2f ",which, under

point, and

VING

down.

example,

would

WE

principalstress

that

immediately

to

OF

MECHANISM

on
a

the

known

stocks

as

compensating principle;

rising or

fallingshaft

opposite direction.

help

to

such

Whenever

successfully
applied,a given piece

of

work

MECHANISM

70

requires the
In

where

cases

three

for

Shafts
as

for
can

seen

Figs.

extended

the

42

Bhafts

shafts

and

work

43;
for
any

even

liftingfor

motion

the

twill

part

lifted for

are

connected

latter
to

of

single acting

sometimes

are

in

two

say

another,

plain, and
he

nnmber

same

VING

WEA

OF

in

must

pairs

former

weaving.
number

to

every

pick.

pick, and

one

be

used.

single levers,

arrangement
This
of

ia

principle
shafts, but

OVER

IV

the

half

each

number

employed
this

In

pick.

inapplicableto
But

of

number

any

each

and

shafts

down

half

bowls

at

therefore

are

of patterns.
in

as

carried

be

can

71

and

up

compounded,

are

Figs.

44

53,

to

down

or

up

previously stated, the

time, provided, as
up

go

stocks

form

levers

when

must

large number

MOTIONS

UNDER

AND

at

one

number

same

go

pick.
and

Figs.44

45

arranged

are

for 4 and

8 shafts.

In the

kn

rUJ

CM

QJ
Fkj.

first

straight levers
of

means

of which

and

of

supports

bowls

attached

The

to
to

shafts.

6,c

shafts
shafts

remaining
connected

or

1,
3,

2 ;

4 passes

to

of

d^ ", from
its

end

each

respective shaft.

bowls

strap passes

by

supports

for
round

moving

bowl

a,

2 passes

round

ft,and

is

strap 3, 4 passes

round

c, and

is

strap 1,

4.

motions
to

levers

arrangement

an

number

attached

bowls

strap 1, 2, 3,
shows

Lever

employed.

are

connecting straps ft,

c,

Fig. 46
similar

44.

each

consist

other

of
and

to

larger number
the

shafts

of
in

MECHANISM

72

similar

being

other;
lever

above,

WEAl'ING

further

pakt

of
ilescriptioii

them

unnecessary.

When

howls

the

to

manner

OF

an

odd

number

placed

are

and

in
be

must

number

of shafts

motion

the

at

all

of

end

one

such

placed

to

of

cases

balance

attached

bottom

shafts

lever

to

be

to

the

first lever

the

fulcrum

the

both
is

have

weight

ends.

divided

"

more

than
of

Thus
into

used

at

the

the

first

namely,

the

in

three

3-shaft

equal

OVER

IV

parts, and

the

fulcrum

the

heavy end,

the

fulcrum

AND

pin, c

shafts

When

strap

to

bowls

the

the
a

strap passing up
e

at

73

first division

is the

lever,h

bottom

number

to

its centre, and

from

shaft,d

/, g straps

nected
con-

2, 3.
used

are

compounded

are

where

Fig. 47,

strap supporting lever

to

MOTIONS

pin placed at

in

as

UNDER

throughout, the

lower

two

ones

by fasteningboth together and screwing a

periphery of

each.

The

diameter

of

bowl

one

un

Fia.

be

must

that

to

of shafts

number
a

3 -shaft

of

5, because

only ;

bowl

shaft

the

other

but

are

the

by
one

bowl

2,

Fig. 48,

of

which

6, controls

is
that

is twice

a^ is attached

shaft

to

through

3.

in

the

suitably combining
for

the

proportion to
in

to bowl

modifications

many

with

Thus

to

strap 2, screwed
strap 3, shafts

inverse

diameter

strap 1, screwed

bowls, but
motion

in

controls.

each

arrangement,

c, and

There
and

of

47.

shafts,any

details of
a

odd

stocks

2, 4, 6,
number

or

up

to

MECHANISM

74

11
5

shafts
and

Fig. 51

shafts

will

opposite

end

into

to

In

"

end

one

of
the

to

equal parts, and

five

3-shaft

the

from

for

methods

(Fig.42)

motion

pin placed

fulcrum

the

is attached

2 -shaft

is divided

(Fig.48)

a, and

PART

following combinations

sufficiently
explain

3-shaft motion

straightlever

VING

WEA

The

worked.

be

can

OF

the

divisions

two

motion,

away
the

balance

to

weight.
In

that

but

^^^
V

"

by

A*

now

into

divided

is usual
at

Owing
stocks
the

and

movement

little careful

to

employ

two

the

sets, each

shafts

the

it
one

from

; and

of

axes

frequently

bowls

healds

the

distance

same

of

are

Fig. 51
the

to

which

pull to

to

the

the
avoid

rollers

some

upper

right angles to

at

each

is shown

set

the

^^^ position with

bring

from

below.

In

to

side

shafts, the

those

shaft

the

straps twisting between

rollers

to

line

third

prevent stocks and

extremities

also turned

the

to

to

placed

are

parts, and

the

giving a

from

and

h is

Lever

(Fig.46).
seven

tained,
re-

replaced

at

order

In

the

is

is

end.

heavy

48

motion

2 shafts

for

for 4 shafts

one

pin placed

FiG.

3-shaft

the

53

Fig.

work-

tions
requisiteconnec-

The

shafts.

in

rollers

upper

strap immediately under

the

it is attached.

the

bowls

levers

multiplicityof
it is not

of each

roller when

analysiswill

Something depends

always

be

upon

an
a

shed
to

character

sets

some

matter

easy

sufficient

the

in

is

to

trace

forming, but

demonstrate
of

the

of

it

shedding

OVEM

"v

motion.
a

in

AND

UNDER

MOTIONS

If, for inBtatice,a Jamieson

shed

centre

dobby

line after

one

each

is used

75

tappet,

single lift,or

of

giassage

the

shuttle, but

placed

is

(see p. 43), all warp

position

HI

of

that

down
shed

at
can

line varies

with

time.

one

be

found

Depth

Its

the

number

height

above
the

by employing
of shed

Shafts

shafts
in

of

lifted
the

set.

shafts

the

moved

lowest

following
for

one

up

point
rule

pick

"

of

or

76

Example.
thread

If

"

EC

NANISM

shed

WEAVING

OF

3"

twill,three up and

deep

for

weaving

five-

down, the closed pointwill be

two

3x3

is made

PART

9
=

1*8

"

above

the

shed

bottom

line ; but

if the

size

same

of

shed

rll

CD

"

Fig.

is made

for

four

up

and

one

3"^J
from
a

the

is the

bottom.

For

pattern, h three

51.

down

l!
=

twill

pattern, it

2-4"

proof refer
divisions

to

ruled

Fig. 54,
to

in

which

represent inches

12

12

'EMU

"
y

PART

DOBBY

and

lifting3,
down

pull

"

bottom

in

shed
of

shafts

it must

not

consecutive

all

top, others

The
shed

is

the top

shafts

the

second,

shows

that

/, and

1|"

wound

1|",it

follows

and

of

3"

of shafts

the

strap will

be

the

shaft

fall of ^, and

any

be

can

pair of

DOBBY

the

of

time

fall every

either

locked

are

at

this system,

pick ;

first

we

for

from

large pulley
with

compounded
of roller g

depressed Z"

shafts to be

traced

Under-motion

3".

one

shafts

it.

pulled down

"

namely, 1 J"

amongst

the

3.

rollers

changed.

are

SHEDDING

pattern is beyond the

number

sary.
neces-

by increasingthe length of strap

PART

If

with

changes

for the

centre

the

positionsthey

unwound

4 will be

1 J"

movement

straps when

the

same

motion.

down

small

the

at

which

illustrate

to

and

that

figure^

level

rise and

shedding

up

upon

the

corded

remaining

5 down

being fixed, and

similar

are

and

goes

ment
move-

for
differently,

height

one

4 up

1, 2, 3,

Shaft

the

at

last pattern is taken

find

the

on

The

on

pattern renders

the

those

by

is

simultaneous, and

it is

sheds, in

number

bottom

top line.

somewhat

some

up,

bottom

formed, and

or

If the

the

compound

shaft

is traced

acts

be

them

tying

same

the

that

motion

never

can

when

of

on

are

surfaces

'.

1, 2, will

the level of

pick.

stationaryuntil

remain

by

for each

with

2",

in mind

shedding

In

1"

: :

the

to

picks 2, 3, 4,

borne

shafts

instant.

for

be

open

the

line, 1, 2, 3,

but

An

79

positionto

proportion

namely,

rollers/

that

4 from

SHEDDING

range

of

manipulated

tappet either

or

in the

in

picks to

MECHANISM

8o

pattern, and

repeat of the
be

to

is known

and

manufacturing centres,
capable

of

machine,

as

In

dobbies

are

include

by

In

they

jacks

and

use,

positivein action, and

for

trade

in

places where

is used
offers
than

for fabrics

last-named

quite

Still it

tappet.
work

never

patterns

than

be

work

borne

by

as

of

usually

are
a

as

many

Jacquard

changed,

of

dobby

tappet,

variety

in

longer,or

actuated

when

the

and

general good working.

the range

last

better, never

are

mounting,

preferableto

producing

must

are

dobbies

dobbies

often

are

within

greater facilities for

a

machines,

industry 36 jack dobbies

therefore

are

do

to

shafts

shafts

jack
mail

large
16

24

exceptional cases

The

is

the

with

to

as

heavy cloth, firm shedding, and

In

12

40

work

to

it

Manchester

of

many

the Worsted

employed.

are

shafts

dobby.

considered

be

In

everyday

used

are

it

in different

mentioned

from

as

Dhooty

can

Jacquard.
in

are

of

use;

instances

the

all purposes

machine

greatest proportion of these

few

but

small

number

40-shaft

small

too

employed;

Index

neighbourhood

the

far

is

and

frequently

in extensive

not

employed.

70

16-shaft, or

in

although

common,

is

working
immediate

the

shafts

the

time

Jacquard,

Dobby, Witch, Wizard,

as

f ART

same

control

to

VING

the

is at

economically produced by

speciallyconstructed

for

WE

OF

mind

of

that

it

effects
healds

give greater

properly

as

faction,
satis-

constructed

tappet.
It is
to

that

of

the

applied to

were

the

probable that

range

of

this country,
existence
As

now

to

the

dobby

Jacquard.
the

hence
the

made

before

they

can

from

time

Certainly,analogous

hand-loom

treadles

dates

for

anterior
machines

weaving patterns beyond

reached

Jacquard's invention
scarcely be

said

to

owe

their

largermachine.
they

are

single-acting,double-acting.

DOBB

negative, and
and

long

goes

In

be

the

for

is too

in excessive

framing

form

with

which

hook, that
heald

at the

or

board, and

is

kept

with

drillingthe
and

them
of

in

to

machine;

through
A

fixed
which

w, 0, the
to

receive

as

the needle

prism

line.

former
the

perforated on

hooks

wire,

rest

upon

the

bottom

as

passed,and

d^ and

of

end

to

the

thrusts

hold
end

end

its upper

end

forated
per-

lower

the

c?,

hook,

plates^, /t,are

eye

needle

than

ends

rear

to

slottingand

by

Two

and

or

horizontal

Through

spring,

cord,

slightlybroader

i is

the

of

end

is

of

plateg,
h is

supported by
of

opposite ends

I slide

The

formed

and

shafts,

that at the top to

"

by

/,

piecesJ, called hooks,

bar^, extending from

i acts

square
to

flat

is

forward

steel wire

piece of

secured

the

horizontal

",

find

of the

centre

hold

passedthrough it.

to receive

results

fourth

rack, known

vertical

eyes

; slot

the latter is

metal

two

metal

to

is connected.

c,

each

the

over

bottom

perforatedboard
furnished

light fabrics,

on.

its extremities

near

shaft

so

of vertical

number

bends

two

for

else

is too

one

singlelift negativedobby, we

the

(Fig.55) placed

contains

dobbies,

only adapted

tear, and

and

wear

has

is

is found

displacesall

In

it

quite

are

mechanism

soon

purpose.

none

complicatedin construction, a

Beginning
which

same

great that

so

that

piece of

action, another

in

third

each

variety is

proving

wherever

closed, centre, semi-open,

pre-eminently suitable,it

intended
slow

short, the

towards

way

for
satisfactory,
to

positive; they form

sheds.

open

SHEDDING

freely.

the

Both

each

exactlyoppositethe

of

face,
needle

carry

forks, and

The

so

that

the

the

latter
or

in

bearings

cylinder^, is
are

brought

pegged

to hold

holes
are

/,

fixed brackets

two

prism,

points,and
G

rods

horizontal

framing by bearings m,

rods

being curved
gudgeons

two

the

cards

in

position;

rods ;?, that

bar

it

VI NG

PART

and

from

two

they

carry

comes

freely in bearings

move

inclined

^, but

rightangles to

at

requires a horizontal
motion

horizontal

The

motion.

WE

OF

MECHANISM

82

vertical

griffe

ft,
or

better

s, which

work

hooks

to

rotary

E-V

Fig.

still,
slightlyinclined
between

keyed

the
upon

having

its

framing.
the

main

to

both

prongs

of

'p^ and

attached

fulcrum

From

fork

in

this lever

driving

shaft

55.

of

also

bowls

Above

n.

by

link

and

bracket
a

the

rod

loom

pins

to

hence,

to

lever,
the

above

elevated
descends

t is

cross-head

as

crank
the

on

crank

DOBB

rotates, the rod

a

The

the

forward

four

the

line with

turning
by

hammers

T-shaped

slidingrods /,and

connects

; hence

parts of the ^anks

inner

chain

cylinder
each

of

hole

each

to

Both

against

of 1

the

upon

cards

paper

position by

through

pass

punched

shank

section, and

also

tance,
dis-

have
bar
cross-

square

continuallypress

cylinderh
in

held

prevented

dobby.

press

heads

the

perforated

Ic and

are

woven,

of

face

face, which

cards

to

2?, and

on

having

the
in

when

its proper

1, each

them

upon

that

It is

turn

entirely through

pass

spiralslooselythreaded

the

to

end

one

projectionsin

revolution.

to

projection

assisted

far, and

to

cylinder,so

rests

projecting

z^ secured

partly round, partly square

are

that

of

cylinderh

its hook

the
of

imparts

y, that

metal

hold

takes

too

two

long enough

catch

rounded
of

one-fourth

pullsit through

upon

also to

lantern

four

corners

out, catch

shanks

given by

of

edge

consistingof

^, and

from

is

w, and

to

and

movement,

top face of the cylinder,with

the

moves

83

vertical

rotary motion

beyond
of

receives

reciprocatingmotion

lateral

upon

SHEDDING

equals

passed

conical

two

in

holes

correspond

is

the
the

with

cards.

each

in

pegs

pattern

rising shaft,and

round

The
be

to

blank*

sinking shaft.

also

turn, and

points of
The

action

motion

6, and

bowls

card

are

its
at

follows

as

"

When

the

with

the

the

\' below
the

top edge touches

the

needles

forward

cessively,
suc-

cylinder to

projecting

d.

bottom

against plate

points of

cards

allows

contact

top centre, griffer is about

hooks

is

the

brings

it into

moves

needles

Ic

horizontal

the

and

its

of

rotary motion

The

are

of forks

^, and

n;

drivingcrank
the

vertical

pushed

back

when

bend

upper

line of hooks

cylinderk

consequently

is

is

on

of
;

pressing

the

projecting

blank

plq,cesin

cards

the

which

doing

allows

needle

effect

either

needle

rotation

of the

on

The

out, when

moves

needles,

pendicular
per-

perforationin

the

card

producing

crank

to ascend

causes

the

Cylinder
left

without

bending

it

the

and

presented,

is

left.

are

with

take

and

level of hooks

turn

to

card

fresh

any

hook.

or

catch

out

without

enter

is above

for

enough

far

to

the

hooks, but all inclined hooks

it all vertical
h

point

In

way.

of

pressed

are

needles, but

the

by

hooks

some

part

springs % give

for

opposite them,

come

VING

WEA

OF

MECHANISM

84

down,
the

process

repeated.
This

Jacquard, with
is also

It

19.
because

threads

all warp
of

the

shuttle

move

too

the

the

bar

which

the

loom

former

will

machine

by

least

to
sufficiently

space,

shafts

forward

the

avoid

To

results.

front

lift,the

different

in

and

griffe shown

the

perfect in

connected

by

rod

the

back

one

on

this

respect

fulcrum
the

bearings,and

to

link

pin

has

/, and

Fig.

has

56

is the

griffe

h carried

dobby.

in

by

in

two

the

At

over

zontal
hori-

d^

arms,

latter

to

f,

the

g.

that

through

bracket

vibrates

is obvious

move

have

the

alteration

front

driving crank
It

should

swings freelyupon

shaft
the

strain

equally;

greatest.

simple

rendered

warp,

unnecessary

through

move

through
A

shaft

the

elevated

place

all those

leave
lifts all

board, but
be

p.

points: first,

level, and

must

only

on

vertical lift,cannot

race

below

pass

given

reasons

additional

two

top shed

shafts

rear

to

at

the

on

high, and

each
to

one

the

of

the

therefore, as
allow

for

small

It is

needles.

and

hooks

than

less

nor

with
griffe,

shed

bottom

which

defective

horizontal

of

row

one

more

slow-running looms,

for

adapted

neither

is

dobby

the

less

hook

space

nearest

than

that

the
nearest

fulcrum
to

pin
link

/,

86

MECHANISM

done

by making

prongs

of forks

the

OF

WE

bottom

of

the

almost

(Fig.55)

VING

PART

the

between

space

vertical.

Careful

will

consideration

show

fro

that

when

back

presses

of

them

on

will

pushed

hooks, and
and
Of

the

both

needles

generallyto

increase

parts added

the

namely,

"

the

through

have

rods

and
the

cylinder, but

cost

the increased

it and

shaped

its

prevented

the

upon

of

to

acts

movement,

proper
levers

fixed

tappet

shaft, and

crank

give

most

separate driving for the

is

cylinder

remedy

to

defect, the

above-named

the

is

tear.

effective

to

maining
re-

tendency

the

puncture cards,bend

wear

hook^

fall the

off and

distance;

and

hooks

actuate

griffe,those

the

already

to

same

needles,

the

of

some

if any

be

the

reaches

descent, cylinderh again

in its

point

and

grifFer

applying

number

of

parts

tion.
general applica-

fairly satisfactory
is

hooks

reach

Fl(!.

pushed

upon

cards
furnished

Another

with

disc

contrivance

instead
is

of

an

shown

round,

on

by

short

where
and

position

griffeh

/"

acting
of

Fig. 57,

vertical

normal
of

out

in

turned

are

their

shown

ment
arrange-

they

blanks

in

needles

in
are
are

the

r, each

eye.
at

Fig. 58,

in

which

DOBBY

needle

has

spring h, the

of

hook

three

necessary,
without

hook
card

pushing

takos
take

to
c

will
c

the

first

large enough

considerably

one

and

only lai'geenough
Assuming

eyea,

second

":

SHEDDING

is

its

press

off the

the

long l"n, whilst

its short
on

exceeds

the
back

receive

to

the

sions
dimen-

third

is

change

is

leg.
griffe and
the

gritfe,owing

point of
to

the

needle

size of

eye

2,

88

MECHANISM

the

bub

between

space
and

the

the

with

this

enables

to

weave

drilled
the

needle

holes

in

The

latter

well

as

that

elevating or

is

its

when

be

to

In

Fig. 55

shaft that

h\ but

arms

plate /' are

needles

notch

bottom

will
tow

In

be

in the

of the

needle

of

to

last

forward

be

elevating the
cylinder.
work

never

so

it is obvious

of neiBdles

ends

needle

cause

set

one

plate is

the

dobby,

shows

handle

of

middle

row

when

moved

upon

noticed

which

on

is

are

supporting

and

notched

to

of

holes, the

handle

is in

notch

the

left notch

the

right

the

the needles.
similar

that

attached

is the

the

to

if moved

down.

or

g up

shown

one,
t

rows

and

figureare

plate:

needles

three

acting

it will

in

have

If

/'.

different

bringing the

hooks, and

to

move

to

used,

and

other.

plate g.

card

will be

Fig. 59

for

drawing only

opposite the

are

the centre
row

card,

two,

elevating the

length of

the

the

for

cut

course,

in the

rows

stationary,will

the

to

employed

Assuming

in

best,

ends

needle

and

other

the

rear

extends

of

consists

one

"

plan for liftinga

cylinder is, of

for

use

depressing the

inclined

being

row

double-decked

right angles

at

needles;

rows.

the
far

often

are

of

row

each

number

be

to

of holes
one

The

the

action

by

leaving their

used

carries

wire

the latter reaches

cards,

systems in

two

plate, and

wires

few

pattern.

for three

are

of

top

creased,
is in-

produce long, striped,or

to

is said

dobby

There
rows

from

different

three-decked

bars

legs of

of the

rows

having only

correspond with

to

three

or

manufacturer

fabrics

two

short

grifFeimmediately

dobbies

on

bordered

and

long

part

springy nature

containing two

met

and

WEAVING

point.

Cards

and

the

the natural

long leg off

lowest

OF

to

shaft, h

an

the

parts

to

those

cylinderinstead

arm,

the

cylinder

DOBBY

SHEDDING

bar, i the cylinder,e the settinghandle, and

the

retaining

plate.
The

cylinder motion

horizontal, but
only

dobby

has

been

cylinders merely swing,

some

spoken

whilst

of

as

others

rotate.

The
A

of

parts of

swinging cylinder

shaft,d',is placed

near

the

foot

are

given

of the machine

in

and

Fig.

69.

carries

yfECHANISM

f/"

and

its

cttrverl
the

bearings

secared.

are

framing

An

and

up

il and

down

and

the

conveys

the

in

the

part of

liftinglever

upon

of

long

lower

rod

connecting

motion

cylinder

(T, with

arm

/', fitted

slot.

the

part

which

of

pin

bowl

as

VING

ends

upper

slot,swings freelyupon

machine

moves

the

c^ into

uprigbu

two

WE

OF

the

^,

couples

former

the

to

latter.
Other

good

so
a

as

horizontal

circle and

and

vertical

needles

positionthe

holes, whereas
hole

of

the

needle

horizontal

given they
screwed

to

other

rail

d.

the prongs

of

of

line

continuous

large surfaces
it would
without

be

together,and

the

to

them, for

into

moves

of the

centre

the

act

impossible to
would

peg

on

peg
in

is moved

an

almost

give comparatively

and

machine
to

hook

turned,

positionform

in

c, the

againstneedle
is

is

each

of

handle

cylinder e

for the pegs

next

rests

forks when

across

between

points.

prong

When

The

griffe
g.

come

invariablyrequires lags instead

one

to

constantly holds

the
tuning-forks),

i, and

of

arc

springs a (Fig.60) (in the drawing

of

resemble

against lag

presses
range

series

holes

the

occupy

motion

needle

rotary cylindermotion

cards, and

in the

cylinder arm

points

quite

not

is first made

contact

as

oppositethe

centres

but

needles;

is

moves

parts of the

upper

when

it

because

one,

the

causes

opposite the
card

motion

things being equal, a swinging

; this

is

essential,as

perfectworking

ensure

slip over,

under,

or

at

one

side of its needle.

A

modification

Flat

springs\'

bout

outward

pog

in
Both

two

of

wide

by

presses

methods

rod

back
are

the last described

the

last method

are

screwed
Needle

r.
a

and

d and

upon

is shown

rail h and

d is riveted
forces

in

to

hook/

preferable.

slightly

spring a,
over

moderately satisfactory,but
is

Fig. 61.

so

griffe
g.
of

the

MECHANISM

92

As
form

fresh

the

and

it

most

is

not

manufacturers

set

of cards

be

have

lii'oblemof reducing
A

and

continuous
canvas

is

expeasive
lo

band

WEAVING

OF

required

item

the
of

cloth, having

cost

for

at

that

of

pattern,
with

they

dobbies,

machinists

considerable

time

and

to

the

using them.

perforated paper,
some

each

in connection

wondered

devoted

part

of

the

also of wire

gauze,

perforations stopped

OF

MECHANISM

94

and

usually of wood,
such

as

metal

thin
has

wood

been

tried

partialsuccess
then

are

the

hooks

former

No.

shank

case

them

push

lifts

peg

an

by causing

to

as

so

when

working,

with, however,
Other

pegs

oblong

head

1).

and

diameter, but

^^

off

substitute

dispensed with

the

upon

round

break

to

(seeFig. 62,

pick lags have

PART

f long by Y

liable
as

VING

"

about

is

WE

the

off the

in

griffe;

shaft, in the latter it depresses

jQl
'

"

o
o

direct

act

.^-^
t

single

needles

to

pegs

or

on

for

only

"

o
"

o
o

".

:x:
"

'

"

c
"

A.
"

"

"

"

oc/"""ooo"o

/'O

oo/o"""ooo"

~3r
*

"""coo"ooc
o

11

"

0"*"ooo"/oo

o
o

"

"

/o

B
o

A.
"

"

O/

"

"

"

"

".'

\.'

V'

O/O

"

"

"

"

T"*

\2J
H

8I
7

-."%
i
KJIHCFEO

Fio.

No.

one.

and
to

2 shows

peg

for

operates three hooks.

the

reduce

peg

is

peg

1", all

taken

time

Dobbies

left-hand

handed,

known

are

arises

If, when

about

from

the

end
but

the

when

as

the

prepare

pegs
set

the head

across

of

and

operates

two,

employed

are

lags,a single
a

three-hook

thick.

right and

position of
faces

weaver

of

^V

singlehook,

Compound
to

approximately J'
are

63.

the

loom,

the rods

left

the

handed,

driving

fabric, they pass

the machine
are

at

the

is said

the

tion
distinc-

rod
down
to

rods.

or

at

be

right-hand

end

the

rightthe

DOBBY

This

is left-handed.

machine
a

pattern,

is the

will

as

be

hand

machine.

The

in all

picks

the

shed

and

is

industry

cotton

and

dobby

where

closed

such

than

cards

punctured by

their

all tend

these

griffea,
hooks

the

rapid

rest

to

connecting

shaft

of the

rock

on

that

movement

framing, and

carries

that

down
the

to, and

motion

of

the

precludes

adapted,
it

but

strokes

against

in

at

selectingrisingand

be
the

become

off,to
the

to

ceases

strikingcapacity of
be thrown

shed

centre

swinging
is

one

needles, and

fallinghooks

dobby

in

the

h';

up

and

by

crank

lever

d and

couples

c? to

opposite

is

pinned

is reversed

upon

h for

grid
both

levers

the

other

Rod

end

connects

another

rack

by /,

h.
and

"

top
it to

causes

and

stud

the

on

to

latter.

(Fig.64)

following manner

swings freely on
at its

pin

upon

the

are

a',and

at

forced

is vibrated

to

of

shedding.

Rod

/, which

passes

expedite

essential, as

minute

per

the

; it is attached

lever

of

to

fabric
is

well

form, centred

upon,

rod

loom

centre

similar

numbers

branches

the

to

simultaneously

down

pushed

end

for

usual

the

operated, so

are

of

it is

by

essential parts of

The

of

picks

defective

to

in those

shedding

liable

are

allowed

time

left-

the

introduced

nature

work

160-170

cylinder,and
short

lags for

Dobby

chieflyused

now

reliable, for it is limited

the

in which

representing

shafts,and

to

was

the

for

higher speed

similar

Shed

where

high speeds, or
gauzes;

and

circles

pegging

cases.

centre

weaving

in

difference

solid

letters refer

Centre

The

makes

right-hand machine,

for

95

by referringto Fig. 63,

seen

design,h lags,with

pegs

to

SHEDDING

imparts
d

bolted

to

one

in the

rod, g,

that

It is obvious
therefore

MECHANISM

96
descends
up

by

by

as

lift shafts

fall with

changes

making
when

them
d is

at

is

singlelift

been

opened

half

only

that

The

", but

in the

In

down

and

occupied

time

required

complete

to

lever

loom

drawing, parts c?,6, /, ^,

line

dotted

from

out

missed

those
up

the

is used.

machine

taken

all hooks

shed, whilst

shed.

bottom

PART

that

being simultaneous,

right angles to

have

the

to

of shafts

movements

in

the top

form

to

VING

the result

ascends, with

WE

OF

to

the

show

working clearly.

A'

"^

u
H
Fio.

The
as

in

card

cylinder

and

frequently "decked"

swings,

Fig. 59.

Ordinary

needles

superfluous by
method
one

is

64.

of

edge

the

employed,

are

form

of

supporting it.
of

constantly

the

tends

grid, and

the

throw

the

to

hook

the

The

but

springsare
(see Fig. 64)

bottom

bend

weight
top

rendered

of

bend

and

is hooked
the
in

upon

heald
range

the

shaft
of

the

grifFe.
Double

Double

forming

lift
a

centre

dobbies

shed

in

Lift

Dobbies

advantages

possess

respect

to

those

over

steady working

at

high

DOBBY

speeds,because
of hooks

set

and

the

twice

time

once

for two

for

a
selecting

in

Again

changes.
bottom

for

two

or

it, instead

of

the

for

and

less strain

of fabrics
its

is

an

closed

The

It is not
a

possess

as

the

task

as

it ; but

the

class.

To

to

meet

frequently

moving
Its

which

contains

flimsyin
shafts

even

is

for the

fewer

steadier

kept

last-named

advantages ;
be

must

class

in

short,
obtain
into

converted
"

as

"

shakers

Dobby

honours

to inventors

features

large

as

many

of

Dobby, partlybecause
it does

other

as

it

extent

but

jacks ;
that

but

they

resembles
it

has

is

been

dobby.

the parts
are

not

machines

hooks, and

80

It

then
are

so

incapableof

moderately weighted.

consists of hooks

operated by

the

pattern permits

higher speed,to

Blackburn

construction

when

make

to

fallingagain

specialrequirements of
as

central feature
are

and

warp

award

to

capable of actuating40 double

lightand

the

cylinder Jacquard,

the

extent,

dobby.

distinctive

many

lift,double

modified

the

forated
per-

stationary at

slowly developed, partly because

same

double

the

BixACkburn

easy

known

been

of

an

machine

it has

as

semi-open shed

belong to

not

time

of parts known
by the application

one

do not

that

same

centre

somewhat

shaft,

great advantage in weaving

lift possesses

or

open,

the

to

own

is at least

are

remain

the

gauzes,

is

crank

cards

increased

can

is of

put upon

double

the

picks whenever

this

only advantage

which

from

risingto

pick ;

next

broken

pegs

more

fabrics,except

most

lift; hence

shaft

its

actuates

fresh series of hooks

certainty results

more

of

revolutions

double

by needles, nor
and

97

card, or lag barrel,only

long

as

SHEDDING

without

pegs
H

placed in

two

lines

the aid of needles

or

MECHANISM

98
Other

loom

the

of

centre

pair

of

and

have

that

so

shaft

secured

are

treadles

two

are

the

warp

they
that

griffe bars

when

straight lift
the

the

finallyscrewed

into

Both

griffes.

opposite ends
is

of

of

and

dobby

depressed,

opposite

barrels.

barrel

moved

an

wheels

that

thus

at

through ^

of

of the

by

the

forward

and

three

are

tappet
purpose
the

to

that

barrel

rest

shafts

pawls pull

the

other

is

of

two

spur

ends

of

barrel

gearing

the

rod

one

the

the crank, the

the

across

barrels
of

revolution, and

fitted upon

are

end

at

give equal

to

pullingpawls
one

upon

by

distance

equal

if

is fitted for

from

rocked

are

fastened

are

; hence

one

the

extending

oscillate

and

from

giving a slidingmotion

is derived

they

tappets,

studs,

griffes. Lag

crank

ratchet,keyed

therefore,as
one

and

Eotation

looselyupon

the

connecting rod

lever

hooks

the

pulleys

to

latter

straps bolted

to

shaft

horizontal

and

from

connected

of

case

their

of

front

loom

treadle

upon

ends

the

in

long
passing

rear

the

below

pulleys,the

parallelwith

which

rocking

then

two

shaft

after

the

but

are

hooked

short

separately driven
of

required

shaft

which

to

over

extra

same

adjusting pieces pendent

movements

shaft, on

is

griffesare

the surfaces

upon

fulcrumed

are

studs

fast to

are

An

of the

them,

one

fixed at the

be

may

end

by

made

are

placed near

healds.

one

griffetreadles
rods

connecting

the

lift

varying

nearer

part

is

govern

attached

rods

two

to

resting upon

connecting
through

VING

ordinary tappets

bottom

tappets

WE

machine

The

intermediary parts.
of

end

OF

shafts.
Two

tappets,

employed

are

dobby,
is

by

and

no

connected,

as

to
two

means
as

crank,

one

convey

of the

an

in

the

ideal

motion

to

latter go

arrangement

connecting
all

parts

of

the

warp,

through
If

the

parts

rods
this
it
are

accompanying figures,a singlecrank

DOBBY

and

rod

loom

framing,

be

will

loom
"

joint ;
into

rod

and

either

shaft

straight,or

outside

are

uneqiial

an

opposite

side

griffeA' by

opposed

the

Lag

to

the

lift

barrels

and

can

adjusting
o, with

by

i,y,are

studs

lever
"

g,

and

form

the

end

other

of
end

is

with

the

is connected

ascends, and h descends,

but

diametrically

rise when

semi-open

segment

c" gears

simultaneous
A' to

universal

One

|)in 1',and
6

toothed
e.

segment

on

coupled by
m.

Motion

k and

link

in

one

eight teeth,

of

the

on

h falls ; both
shed

precisely

double-acting Jacquard.

sliding bearings

conveyed

point

d, causes

to

of

wheel

therefore, as
a

crank

means

carries

similar

has

middle

that

by

of

it vibrates

movement

in

similar

rod

d', which

segment

meet

of

teeth

i2 at

h.

griSe

and

the

upon

connecting

lever

centre

with

/ is pinned

rod

with

on

contact

to

is

swings

secured

in

suffice; all driving parts

Fig. 65,

bottom

to

99

given.
In

SHEDDING

is

is
I;

6, the other

keyed

curved

upon

link n, and

derived

the

latter

in "
the

rear

from

move

fits upon
ratchet

end

of the

and
two

wheel
shaft

MECHANISM

lOO

y, and

of barrel
rests

forward
the

ends

of

instant.

same

the usual
bent

Two

o.

upon

at

type

retained

equal
y, to

in

shank

of

bracket, and
The
the

by

14" to 15"

ones

parallelrows.
of

means

wire

bar
the

which

the

short

hooks

are

vertical

legs of

and

the

inwards

at

hammer

of

of metal

(Fig.66),

notches

lower

wheels

(Fig.67) are

long ; they
are

upon

q^

of two
Bar

r.

threaded

impinges against

hang.

will

are

retained

grids w^ w\ w\

three

both

spiralw,

framing,

is

upon

holding

against s.

hooks

All

in the

66.

end

end

its upper

PART

screwed

are

turn

adjoin

i^t by

its lower

long legsof

short

in two

stud

and

with

Fio.

the

g, r,

horizontal

^, that
with

contact

VING

kept steady by

engage

wheels

star

wheels

are

namely, a

"

upon

connect

They

points to

two

octagonal

j?, centred

pawl

WE

OF

be

20" to 21'',and

placed,back
in

an

assisted
When

back,

upiight position

by

unmoved

caught by

to

the

rest

x, upon

by

pegs

rising and

fallinggriffes^, K,
The

lattice

is

equally

divided

"

one

half

consists

of

MECHASKM

l'"i

d'^^^/ff"]j
^Xi0iaid

"tf

IVEAVJSG

OF

e""[tnbatef

the

"^nre,

which
U^i'iftli,

tecxmd

are

ari/l kept in Umxion

that

proverl a

for

light certain

to

detail

than

nr^ticeable

mtfitt

needle
and

of

want

dobbT

patented a
withoat

was

its

eqoal

bat

defects

which, although relatingmore

extensile

use

and

wear

brooght

soon

of

sources

excessive

being

the

Some

solidity.

to

the

annoyance,

tear,

slippingof

to

ways
of the
Ward

the

and

Fig. 68, whore

it has

years

have

sectional

for

is in turn
crank

are

jointedat

supported

lever d

to

recoivos

all

when

at

to

point d' by
moves

heald

pin

of which

end

one

one

bar

Slot

/.

hold

to

c,

part of

fulcrum

in

placed

J, are

upper

assists

by

given

rocking

the

at

is

a,

on

shaft

that

in many

general use

hooks

that

the latter

is connected

(!ontric with

been

this type is made

drawing

it will be noticed

modified

been

of

simplestmachines

and
horizontally,

and

removed

were

public property,

specialrequirements,but

meet

best

front

defects

its manufacture.

last few

Brothers.

which

became

commenced

During

of these

originalpatent rightsexpired,others

loom-makers

piece

work;

rectified since the machine

at

of the

of getting at parts requiringrepair,

collars,
difficulty

before

li

Smith

and

success

principle,were

to

4" in

exceeding

Dobby

Hattersley and

great

shaft

nir""t

s^dom

bj

elastic cords,

hy

Messrs,

1867

is oUained

this

opposite edgiK

near

Keiguley

In

and

Ja^joard hamewwy,

two

fott

pin
con-

in

position.
Hook

by
and

noodlo

is

supported

in

more

or

less horizontal

A, circular in section,restingupon

lighterend

supported by

of
u

lover

lovor

i',fulcrumed

t, similar

to

at^;

position

the
but

i',except

straight
hook

that

h is
it

is

MECHANISM

104

and

prolonged

almost

bent

point touches
grids /, u
than

hooks

a,

ft,are

prevented

levers i,f, are

retained
below

Immediately
lag

barrel

lever,and

inner

or

on

hov

bottom

As

the
fro

in

is timed

take

place when

of

in advance

of bar

d!

draw

the

stationary.

from

stop

on

its

o, press

forward, thus

hence

away,

drops upon

griffe

slots in the
to

by

liftingrod

three-

a
a

crank

n.

A;,Z, slide horizontallyto

fall of hook

the
at

hook

end
and

elevating/

then

ft

or

of

slightly

be

Assuming

it,pull the top

with

extremities

knife.

drawing

its lower

the

ftwill

or

it will take

out

move

of

hook

the

causes

againststop

shaft, to

heald

the

and

it is attached.

which
The

lags being

levers

the

together
after which
to

other

with

arm

double

the
a

i'

s, remain

it becomes

carry

-rowed,

levers

on

barrel

accomplished by
lower

edge

will elevate

lags act

^, /,are

latch

their oscillations ; the

begins to

and

loom

opposite directions,and

to

lags being

peg

its centre

on

revolves, knives

crank

octagonal

an

horizontal

in

is oscillated

shaft of the

other

above, and

by adjustablerods

connected

lever tw, which

flanges of

the

one

point where

slide

i, f,

that

hole will leave

I; both

are

the

and

or

the

pitch of

ftwill fall also until it

framing, and
armed

the

end

of

in

kept

assuming

of

ends

takes the support of

knife

draw

heavy

highest

are

lettered

to fall and

end

the outer

the

lever at the

Elevating a

its

means.

levers,it follows

empty

an

similar

from

grids

by

rotate

to

that of the

equal to
a

is free

the

in

holes

through

parallelpositionby

Needles

6.

them

positionby passing

part

right angles until

at

side of

the under

VING

WEA

OF

lag

of lever w,

acts

pegs

stationary for
to

beneath

jointedpawl

of

line

simultaneously,and

necessary

next

one

r,

turn

levers

hinged

pushing against the

upon

tion
revoluThis

t, i'.

pin

teeth of

they,
picks;

two

of

on

is

q in the

ratchet

DOBBY

wheel
flat
the

shaft

the

upon

secured

spring

joint,and

pawl
Another

the

upon
the

the

rocking-bar

shaft

is
lever

on

the

In

made

give

will

assumed

be

slot,with

inner

end

Now,

as

side

upon

holding

lags steady

the

changes

give
I".

excess

to

be

made

downward

above

the

forward,

knife

hook

h in
of

that

so

the

shaft

movement

is formed

h is at

of

each.

for

modifications

if knife

position
that

loom,

two

are

b, to

but

end

outer

/ will be

is

more

the

at

corresponds with
d!^and

centre

from

also

movement

or

stationary, except

of

a,

if it

positionfor drawing.

that

remain

of

the

for

position will alter it,and

is in

of

elevated

of /, it follows

changing

lags

one

levers

two

the

shed

movement

shaft, will

d^

lift.

be

that

lever

in

several

but

drawn

crank

slight lateral

open

is to

inward

heald

for

to

an

other, with

movement

the

i"

barrel.

that

the

immediately

one,

that

hook

of the
the

outward

seldom

the

is set-screwed

needle

holes

vertical

true

shaft

of its

which

the lattice,

presses

which

front

one

be

vertical

picks in succession, and

vertical

framing

6, one

or

on

shall

seen

that

as

ordinary

with

keeping

drawing given

each

which

placed
d

accompanies

far

under

opposite to

one

and

obviously pegs,

machin^e

centre.

requires

hooks

c, two

i',and

It

of

purpose

beyond

moving

the

shaft

extends

wrong

without

to

barrel

the

of

heald

point /

goes

in.

moves

turn

to

eight-sidedstar wheel,

an

arm

in motion.

Each

The

that

as

force

joint

bolted

105

part of

anything

case

spring

end

not

i and

upper

sufficient

ratchet, for the

when

barrel

the

to

at

flat

top of

the

in

bends

of

exerts

conditions,but

SHEDDING

an

the

these
to

time

causes

fore
therein

inclined

shaft

to

of

movement

allow

the

and

so

k^ I,
dom
free-

combined

exceeding

BUTTERWORTH

Fig.
Ward's

and

feature

is found

levers

its forward

Wy

short

carries

4,

on

the

barrel

barrel

of

the

at

the

s.

top and

", after

depressed

passing through
upright bracket

an

bolted

the

y,

ta

upon

governs

z,

with

machine,

of all

side

until

has

moving

in

vibrating

the

rocking

bowl

5,

out

of reach

In

w.

the

The

Messrs.
believe
less
other

to

be

simpler

costly,and
dobbies

Place
in

capable

in the

and

end

screw

further

meantime

z^ and

on

by which

any

on

to

time
ing
rock-

4, in

arm

the forward

end

i, i'.

Dobby

Burnley

and

Lupton

of y, z^

the

rests

caused

y, elevated

of levers

ends

rear

the forward

stud,

has

its movement,

affect

not

of

It

m.

projection 3,

At
a

lever

of

arm

plate 1.

forward, pushed back

and

lower

2, against a

screw

completed

will

the

upon

5, fittinglooselyupon

4, and

of

than

weight

z, is also

arm

4, centred

arm

bowl

arm

they

the

rotation

under

rising above

y,

adjusting

an

against y,

of w,

which

across

regulating screw

is bolted

swinging

lift

special

of all.

Plate

of

extends

w,

horizontal

setting piece
motion

to

Its

by

impinges againstthe framing, and

with

parts similar

wearing

pegs

Messrs.

by

letters.

the

during

edge touching

i',

same

believed, prevents

swivellingbar,

levers

all

it

arrangement

an

made

off short.

breaking
^

in

In
the

i, i',is removed

it is

This,

with

MODIFICATION

dobby

Dickenson.

marked

are

of

drawing

107

DiCKENSON'S

AND

is

69

Butterworth

of

SHEDDING

DOBBY

PART

introduced

construction,
of

market.

working

at

dobby
more

which

tial,
substan-

higher speeds

io8

MECHANISM

The

framework

which

fulcrum

of cast-iron
All
shaft

the
of

(Fig. 70), that

pins

arms

d,

c,

fallingmotion

parts

by

These

are

shafts, and
of

crank

ill

j.

end

carries

supports

levers

two

at

e,

from

c,

at

6, into

d,

series

Then,

moved

from

connecting

depressed,

shafts

the

rod.

give

to

through
by

bottom
Arms

rising and

jack

levers

cords

to

right angles to place

e,

the

ff.

the

notched

f.

/,

This
is

are

h, connected

at

e,

shaft.

sliape,and

iu

and

heald

almost

bent

arms

and

fulcrumed

normally free,
notches

the

in line with

Pendent
elevate

to

part

/, depend.

e,

loom

VING

secured, and

are

above-named

the

WEA

triangular

alternately lifted

f, are

end

is

shaft

its apex

OF

serve,

they

pushed
as

the

instead
do
back
arms

of

draw

whenever

by
arc

peg

over

carried

hooks,

to

lower, and
one

down

of the

by

the

MECHANISM

I lo

and
is

liable

are

at

run

their

in

steel

the

for

of and

outside
when

One

the

requires

levers, and
the

centre

but

the

rebounding

additional

parts for

fewer

of the

chief

machines,

and

of cast

tensile

the

using

those

together is

into

continuing to
looms
and

at work.

box

any

parts

to

plan
This

of

dobby

market.
of the

movement

farther

or

that

are

the

jack
from,

of

shed,

parts

applied that

iron, so

of,

Shed

in

as

are

all resist
similar

most

Dobby

loom

that

be

utilised.
with

by the

forward

The

motions

than

will not

Such,

cone

and

pick

in the

yet there

dobby.

is

to
illogical

for

full

instance,

check

loom,

dobby backwards

probably by

is,however,

motion

permit the

picking motion

; and

defect

loom

the shed, and

turn

it is

obtain, but

to

both

work

to

neutralised

shuttles

the

to

type

positivedobby,

the power

where

instant

the

in the

to,

the

equal.

Closed

best

positiveparts

capacityof
as

for

near

side

Another

things being equal, a positiveshedding

undoubtedly
add

at the

made

of

on

pass

claim

other

bar

strain.

Positive

Other

I to

lever.

instead

compression,

catch

machine

the

of

have

the

to

jack

any

is

loom

thin

each

slide

shafts

merits

of

of

greatest.

upward

to

makers

distance

short
is

the

jack levers, to regulatethe depth

easilydetachable,
strain

the

made

be

lift of all the

The

parts than

checks

can

the

vitiate

to

cross-bar

(/ if

bolted

causing

for

on

succeeded
only partially

brackets

of
w

up

of

fear

containing
A

which

consists

slotted

purpose

carry

tends

course

in

part

notches

far have

so

contrivance

supported

framing,

of

parts, but

aim.

w^

the

into

VING

high speed, to prevent

several

added

rebound

to

WE

OF

more

throwing
the
are

all

box

chain

many

such

in the

ing
pick-

DOBB

In

make

one

set-screwed

h, which

upon
into
",

and

bevel g

of

upon
is

stud

on

positivedobby
the

d, fixed
wheel

third

wheel

with

the

dobby

inner

near

the
near

shaft.

wheel

spur

to

beTel

in the

/,

1 1 1

shaft

bottom

compounded

similar

SHEDDING

Both

c.

rail.

cross

the
This

of

top
shaft

turn

Bevel

an

of

{Fig. 71)
stud

with

gear

base

e,

is

wheel

loosely

takes

upright

shaft

engages

carries

two

with

pairs of

MECHANISM

112

and

rod

and

strap

and

down,

They

placed

to

that

so

front

the

down

to

has

shaft

of

motion

means

Needles

work

The

latter

rounded
are

to

but
of

receive

set-screwed

sheath

on

moved

disused
in range

obtained.

moves

set

of

made

are

the

by

on

top and

alternate

can

the

be

made

vertical

and

by

in the

front

hook

obvious

sinks

that

shafts

needle

each

I, and

entirely

of

for any

to work

needles, and, by

s, and

nected
con-

3, 4, pass
the

reverses

simply

They

for

each

iron, and

slotted

are

to

the

consecutive

at

operate.
are

pegs

needles

length of time, but

doing, a

to

semicircular

lags

the

end

instantlyby pushing
so

inside

at

have

disposed that

pegs

to
row

levers p, q,

rounded

needle

also

cords

its

on

back

section

plates v.

hooks

rod

straight.
in

are

row

row

r,

j.

methods

and

lever

shaft,but

square

they

so

Other

the

in the
at

of

back

swings

end,

bar

bar

the

is done

facing

miss

second

p, q, fulcrumed
at

and

catch, and

n, which

every

almost

are

holes

the

points

two

the catches

its inner

to

liftingthe

of

framing,
in

hook

from

It is thus

I,and

form

down,

This

segments

5.

provide a
machine

bar

deep,

to

over

shafts

tied

levers

to

hook

are

every

6 ; whilst

top shaft

line

heald

cord

by toothed
to

grifFey,

when

up

line when

straightlever

is taken

front

From

centre, and

rod

moves

lines,with

griifeacts.

attachment.

bottom

the

to

metal

the bottom

to

point

one

back

pull

as

passes

the

the

row

at

k in two

upon

griffej, and

lift them

filed

are

rest

other,

The

pairs

section, about

in

oblong

are

wide.

in

one

vice versd.

Hooks

each

turn, ]

full part of

bottom.

connected

are

eccentrics

the

as

the

both

from

up

corresponding parts

Hence,

of

i go

part

place the

to

is at

other

the

top when

the

at

pair coupled

^, each

eccentrics

WEAVING

OF

new

the

them

pattern is

DOBB

inclined

An

double
a

y to
the

1, and
Wheel

train

shift the

other

in

of

Positive

dobby

Knowles'

dobby,

introduced

and

positivein

for

be

worked

The

attached

the

bevel

part of

of

three

loose

e.

clutch

when

and

is

opened

loom

the

handle

and

crank

in

can

without

Hoop

the

outside

to

the

dobby

closed

upper

by

for

the

move

rf,

framing.
separating

slay without

is to

be

It is
and

is

bevel

by moving

by

ft,which

end

the

box, used

is fastened
I

shaft

wheel

depresses the top part.

sections,of which

upon

drawing

latter drives

the

shaft
a

stud

with

c, and

parts, or

clutch

elevates

gives

simple levelling
apparatus

the

from

it is desirable

disturbingother
that

it

shedding,picking,

line before

one

any

tion,
construc-

shed;

open

by simply turning

upright

an

forms

The

an

originalin

principalparts of

is driven

drivingwhen

back.

than

in motion.

with

to

Hutchinson

Messrs.

it governs

in

warp

(Fig. 72) gearing

It is

; it forms

all the

; and

loom

compounded
Wheel

the

mechanism

pinion

ring groove

attention

more

years.

action

backwards

settingthe

by

; it also contains

placingall

threads

broken

received

shafts,and

the

shuttle boxes

made

as

in recent

straightlift to

and

enters

Dobby

Open-shed

Hollingworth, has

and

2 that

this is done

of 1.

shaft

The

lever

thus

1, and

u\

opposite needles

pegs

by alteringthe positionof
in the

in

1.

to

cylinder

the

on

way

cylinder

rotary motion

key

by

also carries

the shaft of

on

lateral movement

set

shaft

dobby

wheel

continuous

loosely fitted
of

the.

worm

13

from

bevel

imparts

permit

to

into

with

engage

is

is driven

gearing

worm

bevel

shaft

shaft

SHEDDING

lever

composed

lower

set-screw

turned

d
to

are

the

upright shaft,and
through

it and

set

to

touch

into

the

extends

Fio.

movable

enough

portion /
to pass

carries

at

VING

WEA

OF

MECHANISM

114

9.

hole

upper

PART

is drilled

entirely

part of d.

The

72.

its under

through hoop g'and

enter

side

d when

stud, long
the

clutch

DOBB

is

when

closed,but

the

the

occupies

by

contact

carries

revolve

in

place

shafts.

This

from

chain

pattern

chain

of

Y thick,
point,

and

riveted
motion

them

each

four

in

rollers

at

rests

those

to

in

teeth

pass

in the gear.

It is

passed

its centre

slot

through

by

at

and

the

pin, on

which

govern

wheel
at

one

point exactly

between

permits

dobbies.

toothed

is removed

tooth

wanting

are

fall,

to

the

roller

Each

in other

it is

hook;

diameter

semicircular
to

threaded

forming

lever

j? upon

bushes

and

manner

collar

first gap.

w,

is

the

admit

and

fork

0, and

at

of

for

duty
J"

by stripsof

others

at

form

to

similar

supported from

freely.

kept apart

needle

parts,

Vibrating lever

r.

vibratinglever equals a

opposite the
ft, and

bar

allow

and

ing
sink-

of three

means

extend

that

liftingand

of

will

does

gear

Cylinders

oscillating
tappet (see p. 54).

elevate, and

to

one

namely, vibratinglever

"

connecting

composed

an

therefore

one

is centred

spindles in

upon

form

7,

ordinary dobby
them

purpose

upper

causing

an

upon

accomplished by

between
n

in

cast

for the

points,but

Lever

g.

slay

platesof wrought iron, riveted togethei'

thin

passed

gears

is

^, and

two

different

metal

be

top of

the

other.

the

to

griffebars
teeth

togetherto

(Fig.73),gear

will

of

series of

all fastened

of A:,thus

bottom

half-way round,

made

will

and

from

h drives

opposite direction

the

have

almost

it

the

lower

y. A;, the

Wheel

the

from

an

ly 7Ai, take

they

prevent

respectivelydrive,

A, i, which

wheels

cylinders/, m.

i drives

and

bevels

two

similar

of

means

segment

to

when

made

be

only

can

place, for

wrong

d and

leaves

position.

one

Shaft

the

at

stud

the

is necessary

arrangement

parts

that

observed

at

This

1 1

the latter is open

dobb}'^stops.

connecting

SHEDDING

platesof
it turns

steadying pin,
the

extent

of

ii6

MECHANISM

The

third

of thin
are

the

iron

wrought

connected

also used

are

rivets

by

in

and

forks

both

former,
will

move

end

of

lever,

at
are

to

each

riveted

act
r

end.

as

the

from

one

is notched

and

or

harness

jack

so

s.

to

convey

Two

jacks s.

pieces

in its construction

g is
near

that

centre

hooked

it is used

middle,

together
dead

r;

PART

but

they

separated

to

73.

Gear

crank,

VING

harness

the

to

gear

Fig.

form

WE

pieceis a connecting bar

from

motion

OF

to

upon
From

placed
the

the

arm

one

periphery

rotary motion

another.
a

inside

The

nipple in
u

rod

fork,
of

the
of

opposite

bell crank
and

strap

Ii8

MECHANISM

locked

are

in

from
the

bottom

shaft

the

lifted

before
rests

the

upon

the

lift

is rocked

by

is timed

and

begin

to

arms

jecting
pro-

secured

cam

to

forward

move

ends

depressed

gears

on

to

of

and

levers

move,

and

to

assist

in

top of all lifted vibrators

motion,
gear

bowl

into

revolution

and

top, the

the

to

shaft

is at

lifts

the

of

bottom,

mediately
im-

7?,

weight

steadying

will

shaft

for

will sink

the

is

wide

or

into

of

consequence,
in

picks

large

is

gap

cession.
suc-

with

if the

I is

on

allow

to

contact

and

is

gap

the

small

gap

but

half-way round,

rotation

if the

half

makes

large

to

cylinder

top
g

more

drop

turned

the

the

enough

As

g.

cylinder \
be

lever

uppermost,

two

to

gear

bottom

opposite direction,

of 7n, and

for

up

of

if

teeth

touching

permits

segment

teeth
is

gap

without

remain

bush

the

vibrator

shaft, but

without

can

toothed

with

its small

space

pass

through

acts

contact

then, provided

an

the

"", mounted

movement.

In

which

part

knife

cylinder shaft,

between

pass

position by

WEAVING

OF

to

reverse

in
that

g remains

below,

stationary.
When

riveting
horizontal
hence
a

to

and

plane

centre,

state

to

and

decrease

of

that

rise
from
will

dead

one

fall

that
take

the

centre

slowly,

point

crank

together

through

passes

or

rest, the

lever

connecting

is from

begins

increase.

gear

is in

movement

shaft
the

shaft

to

place

pin
is

the

of

end

in
of

proportionate

gear;
and

another,

increases

for
in

always

centre
to

used

velocity

its

ment
move-

to

the

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

PART

VI

SHEDDING

JACQUARD
This
that

it

treatise

is

in the various

ideas

and

much

books

frequently hear

of

been

threads, and

"

it

to-day

used

was

Marie

invented

Between

and

developed
Jacquard.
the

Working

who

cannot

machine
years

but

few

produce
be
was

before

several

of each

little

claim

to

birth

"

exists.

same

as

quard
Jac-

The

find

we

other

invented.

was

have

to

received

ever

or

that

of

so

and

of

invented

known

as

are

kept

the

in

afford

he

countrymen

invention

essential

the

was

pieces of

by

Jacquard.

former

the

the

man
work-

tions
invenmachine

cylinder, his

Falcon
In

in

proof
to

skilled

compact

in

the

Municipal

conclusive

nothing

scattered

one

his

machine

maintained, for, except

the

the

beautifullysimple and

inferior

the

selectingrisingwarp

people

Arts, Paris,

the

combined

and

We

little.

models

des

the

"

many

reallyis.

generally supposed

perfected the

invented

Even

machine.

to

is

on

it is to be found

Jacquard

School, Manchester; these

Jacquard

present

language

neither

for

the

1725-46

almost

the

our

it

loom

such,

as

before

so

years

Conservatoire

Technical
that

doing

the

what

to

Jacquard

Jacquard

credit for

much

ways

produce figured fabrics,with

to

machine,

this

in

in all essentials

selectingparts, centuries
Joseph

many

of

relatingto

apparatus

an

harness

written

prevalent as
the

merely

is

limits

so

Manufacturing, nevertheless

harness," although,

Jacquard

in

subject.

matter

on

still

are

used

the

the

have

monographs

and

within

fullywith

deal

Jacquard,

vague

made

now

impossible

to

Two

the

is

machine

119

1746

twenty-four
Vaucanson

MECHANISM

I20

invented
in

quard
round

having
of

the

loom,

rotated

by Falcon, but

turning

on

lateral and

received

and

prism
the

perforationsin

the

passed

automatically,

cards

prism

cards

The

Jac-

occupied similar positions

cylinder and

and

the

from

perforatedpaper

paper

machines

Both

movements.

rotary

of

chain

endless

an

perforatedprism.
on

of

band

perforated cylinder,and

instead

endless

an

part

chiefly differed

which

machine

WEAVING

OF

invented

were

latter

belong

to

Jacquard.
The

parts of

Jacquard's

with

all

suitable

position,and

in

Of

duty.

and

framing

each

allowing

and

for

parts
do

to

parts Jacquard, in

these

cards, prism

are

board, heel rack, hooks,

cylinder,needles, needle
together

machine

1804,

needle

his

diagonal instead

its

appointed

used

Falcon's

The

of vertical

give a direct, instead

where

loom

make
as

J
far

of

parts

revolution, and
the

possible with

as

move

in

to

adopted.

fixed

on

to

the

his ; to which

prism

to

again

to

move

out,

correspond

Vaucanson's

of

movement

had

inverted

action, and

the

form

to

he

was

previouslyfixed
enable

to

; this

invention

indirect

an

had

Vaucanson
added

Jacquard

of

holes

arrangement

is Falcon's

machine

Jacquard

of

rows

framing,

drilled

cylinder were

finallyFalcon's

and

abandon,

and

board

griffe,
holding

and
cards, prism, needles, heel rack, hooks, griffe,
but

or

cylinder.
Much

is said

for the
that

it is mentioned

ninety

All

years,

modern

and

in

effort

speed, reducing

cost

completeness of
machine

the
all

has
and

essential

been

has

this invention
been

parts

directed

in

use

it remains

towards

when
about
changed.
un-

increasing

imperfections in working

to

minimum.
A

Jacquard

is used

to

produce patterns

of great width,

in which

all,or

to be

of the

most

It

makes

The

of

range

depends

its

upon

In

describinga

of

needles

it

The

usual

in which

For

pendently.
inde-

move

flowing

lines

single-acting,

as

sizes

are

is

Cards
widths

as

machine

are

and

in

of warp

threads.

the number

needle

4 tiers and

for

even

practice

capacity over
capable

they

are

for

cylinder.

16|" long by 1^'

Jacquard

mention
400

or

any

Jacquard,

selvages.

arranged

common

leaving room

of the

100

for

from

to

of

wide, and

row.

two

into

cut

the

covering

card

of those

place

intended

400

to

given

or

more

loom.

lacingand
A

26

some

to

pieces of pasteboard

are

size of cards

"

are

of smaller

machines

of

it is usual

intended

or

the closeness

capacityand

needles

it

obtainable

pattern

machine

number

the

machines

other

given pattern.

higher numbers,

above,

any

reduce

to

contains, as

omitting those

is

classified

shed, twilling,and

ordinarilyrequired for

faces

repeat

effects and

be

may

cylinder,open

speciallyconstructed

also

in

shed, double-acting single cylinder,double-acting

double

and

threads

permits elaborate

different

centre

100

121

readily obtained.

The

of

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

be

to

such
needle

used

holding them
for
600

an

lengths
space

with, and
upon

the

ordinary machine

card

is

16f' long by

MECHANISM

122

wide.

3^"

with

used

The

hand

than

-loom

more

for

power-looms

goes

and

to

cards

frequently

are

the

size

same

exceeds

even

if

considerably;

whereas

hundred,

up

part

varies

machine,

J lbs. per

not

blanks

of

weight

400

WEAVING

OF

lbs.

per

hundred.

Single

described, cards

elsewhere

Jacquards

being perforated,laced

After

and

Lift

passed

over

chain, and
the

wires

built-up,wooden

square,

there

hung by

are

cylindera (Fig.74), each

perforationsas

into

face

of which

needles

are

with

to leave

ample

taperingwooden

Two

cylinder,and

brass pegs
the
to

outside
the

flat

two

as

the

called
many
every
as

cylinder,

without

enter

cradle,

is made

are

driven

J",or

into

of

fear

The

in

and

the

springs on

the

They

outer, and

the

into

to

the wood

them

holes

in

between

midway

holes.

secured

immediately beyond

position,with

cylinder

face of

similarlyshaped

two

are

pegs

fixed

every

spiralsprings,and

upon

of holes

rows

over

paper

to

adjustablebrass plate sunk

flush.

cards

protrude about

an

both

bring

hold

and

rigidityof

needle

pegs

supported

are

cylinderby

the

prism

as

the wood.

touching
the

for the

room

the

machine;

perforation is exactly opposite a needle,

consistent
largeas possible,

in

contains

the

in

wired,

the

assisted

are

wires

two

they

on

by

the inner

faces.
Two
a,

so

that

the

the

cylinder
in

frame

two

permit
that

fastened

are

edges

inside is cut

lantern
and

rounded

their

edges, but
From

lanterns

metal

pins
it

either

to

coincide
to

away
d

opposite ends

to

with

the

depth

project, which

rotate;

swings

from

they
a

the
of

cylinder
about

support

fit in

centre

of

^".
the

bearings
or

moves

horizontally.

favour

SHEDDING

JACQVARD

VI

Both

swinging

plans

motion

have

say

their

it

IJJ

advocates

requires

; thoee

less

power

who

to

MECHANISM

124

ther6

it ; that

move

these

against
mentioned
the

holes

viz. the

"

and

above

them

in

taller

than

or

saw-tooth
needles

positions;
moved

also

from

part of the

any

the latter,and
into

machines, and
in

and

common

shows

the

from
rest

This

two

metal

out

to

A
upper

the

framing

be

must

others
griffe,

The

when
is

tendency

move

former

griffehas

the

off the

cards

liftingbars,
cylinderand

fullyexplained

pieces

wood

of

the

in

of

in

bearingswhich
vertical

of two

upright

machines,

swing

to

screws

to

Fig. 74

hand-loom

in brackets

lift

timed

be

providing

consists

made

are

the

can

double

swinging cylinder

supported

batten

or

they

working

is

retained

in

general in

are

purpose

framing

holes

but

The

movement.
griffe's

of

g, for the

or

two

upon

projectingbeyond
pointed

are

framing, and

they

also

to

enter

allow

of

adjustment

piece of
and

supported

lower

and

^, called

iron

peculiar shaped

suit

ordinary framing

lateral

retaining

the

preferred,as

method

pins /,

countersunk

be

power-looms, that

centre

the

to

cross

in

screw

are

screws

adjustment.
and

of

p. 86.

griffe. Cylinder a

upon

instead

the

hooks

Independent cylinder motions

move

off

cylinder

Jacquard.

puncture

contact.

Shedding,

Dobby

be

must

the

centres

push descending

to

come

defects

carries

general in singlelift machines,

tendency

in

true

but

required;

liable to be thrown

movement

the needle

of

independently

less oil is

slidingcylinderrequires.

is

parts wearing through

more

below

cylinders are

method

part

following

are

swinging

their

Some

the

cards

of

and

machine,

advantages

pegs,

is less risk

oil the

neglectingto

WEAVING

OF

rails

of the

groove,

into

retained

the latter extends

by
across

neck, is screwed

swan

cylinder framing.
which

pin
the

bowl

between

machine,

to

It

has

takes ;

the fork

of

and

has

the
a

h, is
a

rod

thread

izf,

hold

taken

and

of

cylinder continues
of

movement

which

the

the

its

lower

hung
to

upon

pull the

in

end

seta

springs

the

top catch
when

top

one

against
to

sliding cylinder

I, that slide in four

clear
a.

the

one,

cylinder

the

are

tracted,
con-

motion.

string

the

lateral

rotary

up

as

further

"ny

elevated, the

is

is tied

and

weighted

acting,the weight

is

cylinder is required

the

opposite direction, the

catch

then

As

of ^

hook, but

catcb

revolution.

is

If the

fixed

and

steadying

straight end

bottom

lift the

of

the

part

k stops

out,

edge

top

head

assist

in the

turn

and

the

WEAVING

by

travel

to

hammer

and

To

retained

equal J

must

turns,

at

OF

MECHANISM

weight

under

side

is released
of the

to

lantern,

it.

Fig. 75,

brackets, bolted

is
in

supported
pairs to

the

in

bars

outside

of

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

end

each

fastened, and
secured

to

the

spindle

2.

vertically,bars

down

bars

bowl

which

on

the

lip projecting from

outside

and

pin

both

Upon

framing.

127

is in

turns

bracket

griffebearing,

upper
h

Therefore,

as

receive

lateral

g is

neck

swan

moves

and

up

reciprocating

motion.

those

to

screws

already

invented

machine

Frederick

by

cylinder a (Fig.76), turned

it slides

but

in

found

are

its

motion

slot

the

end

in

the

with

they

5 ;
moves

to

force out

be

placed

arms

7,

on

made

in

two

the back
when

in

of wheels

each

are

springslooselyfitted
operate

Fig. 77.
end

one

They

is

wire

point

to

round
for
eye

turned

the

of from

depends

These

to

connect

to

are

arms

studs
the

cylinder

upon

through

to

slots

pause

shanks

thicker

hook

Studs

cylinder.

pass

cylinder

needles.

other
eye

piece,to
pass

upon

to

by

needles

of

is bent
is made

leave

two

downwards.

16* round

through.
the

medium

13"

An

f" long.
a

griffez

as

nearly half-way

setting,and

perfectlystraight,the

large enough
from

two

made

are

wheels

6.

give a

pulled

hooks

loop approximately
the

5 to

upon

on

the inside

their

facilitate

to

engage

of

tremity
ex-

framing, and

positionin
wheels

in

each

at

cast

the

with

adjusting
works

which

moved

are

by catches,
upon

forward

pressingagainstthe

Hammers

Cards

has

1842

form, and

semicircular

draw

cylinder a,

centres

it is

in

any

pieces

the

projectingfrom

and

in

arms

rack

beyond

down, wheels

round
can

has

in

manner

griffez^

and

extend

studs

of

and

up

from

framing,

arranged

are

usual

in the

comes

teeth

series

Goos

pair of protniding

plates;

described

machines.

both

m,

justing
ad-

catches, bearings, and

lanterns, hammers,

Similar

an

The

positionof

to

by

wire

form

ing
coil-

opening
distance
the

hook

Fio.

76.

PART

it is intended
of

rows

hooks,

bent

all the

number

and

machine;
will be

but

obtained

Each

which

needle

the gauge

of the

the

in line with

of

that

of

the

Jacquard

needles

612

the

rows,

extent

compactness

must

eyes

horizontal

with

are

occupy

3-025".

straightend

through

in

it is stated

by

needle

place each

to

their

hooks

the

as

eight

are

have

row

that

vary

of the

when

of 13-75"

space

of

idea

an

points

there

one

but

points ;

arranged

are

length

of

it is obvious

row,

Needles

machine

400

129

needles

their

eight different

at

its hook.

and

behind

placed row
be

regulate. In

to

equidistantfrom

eyes

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

is

board

in

kept

position by passing

(Fig.78),or

iron

an

viz. 0*275", but

cylinder,

platedrilled

with

smaller

it
to

holes,

_M
^

it

are

supported by

protrudes\' to |" in
heel

framing capableof
gauge
their
in

allow

flats ; then
vertical
a

of

n.

rack

0^

consistingof

holding

Holes

pin

of needles.

row

from
are

either

drilled

If" long, and

brass

wire.

upper

and

to

^^

Vertical
lower

springs; they

the

receive

yV'

board

without

thin

pins

pass

to

hold
K

all the

loops

fear of it

detachable

the

made

being

all the

box

needles,but
r, from

from

through

flangesof spring box

serve

on

pass

loop combined

spiralspring

diameter, and

9*

or

heel rack.

or

positionsof
a

8*

loops

and

loped
scal-

of

through

entirelythrough

they correspond with

largeenough

in

the

pin

ends

looped

wires

which

The

needle

The

stout

is threaded

'p

lateral movement

withdrawn

of

front

parallellines,between

in

of

"

77.

Fio.

and

")

i"

q, athwart

springsof

are

1 J" to

26*

holes

q^;

to

in

the
one

28*

the
lines
row

Fig.

78.

PART

in

position
;

in

case

free end

blank

for
in

in

card

can

latter

the

is

is

of them

one

againstthe
pin

'p

back

This

of /i, and
the

doing,

so

by exerting sufficient
takes

place every
to the

presentedby cylindera
\'

by

end

rear

constantly
projectedbeyond

be forced

receive

to

stationary for

of any

it upon

pushes

springr.

within

moves

it

to contract

pressure

the removal

springabuts

of needle

n, but

the board

each

of

straightend

the

131

necessary.

loop,and

needle

permit of

and

repairsare

The
of

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

largeholes

two

cylinderpegs

time

needles

drilled

are

remain

may

length of time, the stationary period

any

being regulatedby

the

length of

made

from

vertical slot in the

swan

neck.
Hooks

They

are

bent

are

short, to form

at

with

from

varies

short

1" between

cylinderside)to
from

arises

pushed
the

base

of

with

hook

the

apart, because
The
to

than

sink

allow it
A

the

long hooks

proportionto
upper
the
to

neck

7 and

difference

increase

an

portionof

loop of hook
stand

cord

at

the

top.

all

in

in the
the

is fastened

the

the

difference

In

are

nearer

them

to

machines

|"

to

diminishes

1"
in

hook.

board

equal to

over

on

cause

equal,from

lengthof

i about

distance

being

movement

bottom

immediately
v

will

are

spaces

in

row

all needles

row

row,

spaces

to

The

8.

top

f"

hole to hole

(countingfrom

the bottom

the

is

about

10^" long, the

rows

uniformly,but

back

bend

u^

row

for
inequalityof leverage,

an

through unequal

move

board
From

1 and

rows

gauge.

upper

0*27", but from

hooks, say

between

\^'

is

wire

givesa loop about

one

bottom

upon

distance

the

row

machines

the lower

the

rows.
perforatedin parallel

thick, and
in each

rests

16"

to

extremities;

catch,and

long, which

\Y

both

11^

is

its

scooped out

diameter, and

perforation.
loop of

every

hook

by

-^

MECHANISM

132

the

cut

twine

"

hitch

double

"

cords,

last strands

tied

are

it

passing

end

thin

to

or

stout

falls with

hooks

ensure

it

should

be

loops

the

hooks

bolted
the

rising from

to

convenient

; it

to

framing, or
a

either

1, to which

to

the

6"

apart,

better

bottom

strips

at

right
rests

rises and

motion.

bend

lifted

To

of the hook
the

grid inside

instead

of

1^", the

to

turn, the

allowed

were

the

each

Jacquard,

machine

pin;

to

parts

the

to

in

and

to

ensure

are

an

fitted

on

griffea? by
double

pose
pur-

hooks

grooves
to

by

attached, is made

are

slide up

opposite ends

there

cam,

serves

cylinder a,

spindle to

or

pend
sus-

upon,

it is connected

machines

in

supports

or

stands

crank,

still,
by causing it

latter arrangement
on

two

which

grid

is in

4|",

the

all other

pairof spindles2, secured

in

holes

this

t;

verticallyby retainingit

move

the

part of the loom, and

gives motion

griffeblock

machine

frame,

the

say

the top of

in these
grifi'e

The

link.

down,

its fulcrum

ordinary liftingrod
some

leave

to

platform that

from

lever

is prevented

lift them.

not

Brackets

into

machine

the

If the hooks

above.

length given
griffecould

left

in the

form

the
actingsatisfactorily,

of

hooks

all hooks

when

long enough

position by

grid x^ consistingof

pushed

are

loops of

the

hook

needle, and

own

pieces and

loosely inside

vertical

neck

event

which

over

they

iron, each drilled for the number

or

wires,

its

by

positionof

end

the

to

the

of

eye

round

turning

and

of wood,

angles

the

either

hole

in

the first and

twistingthem

In

the

will not

by warping thin

after

hooks.

8" below

pieces of wood,

of rows,

the hooks

is made

is retained

through

from

the

over

hook

Each

stands.

cord

together,then

protrude about

cords

knot, so that

endless

an

simply dropped

are

of

part

requiredlength and thickness,and

the

to

instead

or

WEAVING

OF

two

in

the

and

of the

end

down

framing;

bearings, about

steadiness.

In

short

MECHANISM

134

springs r
catches

OF

all needles

force

the

Ic turn

cylinderJ

of

their

normal

position

(^

PART

positions,

revolution,and

is in

VING

into

card

WE

for

the

next

repeating the

operation.

Single lift machines

in the
of

manufacture

branches
those

the cotton

of Leno

and

the

improve

others

forated
of

used.

Wire

made

from

various

their

meshes
or

led

replace them,
number

endless

band

and
of per-

the

ness
thick-

cloth, and
textile
to

canvas

fibres,had

form

pattern

material

capable

of

break-

needles, and

were

79.

flexible

and

the

front

have

used

of

been

instead

an

loom.

painted

automatically, and

placed in
cords

been

have

metal

varnish, rotated

machine

has

resistingthe puncturing and

applied to

Neck

cards

their

other

ing-offtendency

of

of

closed

by varnish,

Fia.

aside

set

ordinary writing-paper, has

been

of

to

approaching

paper,

and

modify

to

to

An

deavoured
en-

features.

cost

dimensions.

his

have

only

reduce

to

several

introduced

endeavour

to

dustry,
in-

cloth.

details,but

great

some

} X

double

of its essential

The

silk

in

mechanicians
not

most

the

classes

trade, notably

Jacquard

machine,

certain

found

are

of

Since

"

of

fabrics, especiallyin
and

still used

are

Endless

with

acted

an

bands

insulating
by

upon

magnets
electro-

ordinary Jacquard.
carried

of hooks.

entirely through
Hooks

are

made

the
to

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

without

act

needle
and

spring

but

point forward,
other

many

attempts, have

beneficial

Fig. 79

the bottom

6", then
A

the

loop is

resulted

in failure.

form

hook

of
and

back

bent

slotted

stationary cast-iron

is shown

turned

ribs, approximately J" in diameter, and

parallellines lengthwise
bottom

bend

lifted all back

not

singlelift

bends

machines

machine

rest

when

of such

board, but

bottom

from

them

Most

ribs.

in

the

slots,and

of the

with

provided

are

it contains

the

upon

circular
semi-

has

running

effectually
prevents
lifted out

never

are

the

^, and

of hooks

turning,for they

of

second

grid platex

in

about

up

form

to

df these,

most

present

sharply outward

curved

again

hook.

in

change

the

to

up

holding

for

contrivance

other

or

135

Fig.

the

hooks

serves

as

It is
wire

of

to
a

leave
In

invention

of

of

head.

the

through
A

knot

year

not

is

such

as

renders

eye
80

shows

eye,

which

Fig.

half-round

1830

William

to

work

it

the
stant
con-

correctly

without

it passes

upon

to

through
that

cross

each

hooks,

cord

Neck

perforated board,

tied
finally

claimed

Jennings

worked

extensively.

is made

an

parts.
a

by coilingthe

eye

quite sufficient

that

machine
a

merely

readilyaccessible.

machine

but

and
griffe,

be

needle

with

to

parts

the
a

form

damaged
needle

it

for

\' to f";

cords.

hook,

proved

vertically
up
also

to

round

all the

is still used

and

neck

modern

about

or

to the

remove

has

use

it,by from

unusual

entirely

form

and

guide

now

diflScult

touch

do not
a

80.

cord

needle

takes

piece at

which

is carried

v
a

the

the

the

eye,

place

machine

immediately

above

136

OF

MECHANISM

the

board

yV'

in

VING

WEA

the latter is at its lowest

when

diameter,

are

large enough
and

allow

to

slit that

take

is

neck

cord

retained

there

then

down,
needles

with

for

only IJ" shorter

than

4J"

below

wire
one

row

of

separated,and

all needles

forward
A

grid

as

the

are

ic, connected

as

hooks

end

the

pushed

the

at

apart

of

stout

framing
each
of

loops

therefore, when
back, the

of the

are

highest

heads, and

between

they
to

the

hook

springy nature

soon

hooked

the

at

to

81.

needles

cylinder.

is bolted

passes

(Fig.81)

the

stationary grid

the

from

straight leg

yV

are

touch

As

verge
they gradually con-

bottom, but

wire

dispensed
with

the

and

machines

lOf" long, and

point.

introduced

springs.

are

the

ing
lift-

the

which

legs

all

pushes

needles, hooks

Both

left

bottom.

to

400

in

knots

and

box

spring

one.

legs are

hook

of

gins
be-

will be

as

200

is

Fig.

the

slit and

all cords

soon

as

also,in 1842,

made

now

pushed

trap board

form

is

board

holes

the

reaches

Goos

every

their

with

forward

board

new

up

Cords

slits.

straight above
8

carry

rise and

to

the

the

to

into

the

until

enough

runs

pressed into

is

pass,

them, but

needle

to

wide

v,

holes,

knot

only

hole ; hence, if
back

The

point.

directly below

are

saw

PART

wire

liberated

is
grifFe,

hook
forces

by

the

carried

up

JACQUARD

VI

and

down

aa

the

machine

SHEDDING

moves,

137

to

prevent

books

from

turning.

Pf

kb
This

works

arrangement

difficult to

remove

for

well, but

repairs.

the

parts

are

MECHANISM

138

OF

Centre-shed
It

has

machines
shed
a

previouslymentioned

work

slowly,owing

another

be

can

counterpoisedharness

the

again,the

to

the

that

of

want

strain

upon

Figure

up

to

to

of

quadrant

lever

An

13.

the

When

towards

spindles2

descends

in half the

lift machine.

each

secured
the

bearings on

Double

lift

single lifts ;

frame

by

time

machine

14

is

rods

form

are

15

12, 14, and

Single

possess

shed

by

single
grid x

by ordinary

that

bolted

to

required

4 and

steadied

griffeframe,

Lift,

one

reversed, blade

Both

the

first

of

connects

is used

all hooks

with

means

couples y

12

rod

4 is

strap goes

rod

similar

required to

other.

Jacquards

in the

the

to

readily

as

equal capacity.

of which

has

loom

simultaneously, therefore

motion

to

imparts

swinging

and

of

y, and

X.

top of brackets

Double

of

simple

are

4 ascends

top shed, and

13, grid

is formed

it

harness.

machines

the

at

another

up

ordinary liftingapparatus

parts in motion

form

of the

liftinglever

on

sets

liftingcrank

is essential

from

13, fulcrumed

with

set the

parts

all that

griffez^

the

other

in

and

view

it created

making changes

weight

the

shows

82

grid X

lever

entire

those

as

blade

one

the

with

1876

objectionable,especiallywhen

is very

construction

repaired

In

of warp,

attempted ;

also to sustain

in

defects, but

thread

every

harness

In

invented

was

quite, as bad.

if not

high speeds are

move

single-acting

necessity of closingone
; and

opened

these

both

remedying

movement

to

the

to

all

frequentlyputs great

Ainsley Jacquard

almost,

in

that

loom.
The

of

part

Jacquards

been

before

VJNG

WEA

pass

through

grid x.

upon

Cylinder

several

place,the weight

advantages
of

over

fallingshed

lift

helps to
increased

be

can

and

wear

half

at

the

place,less

strain

reduced

space.

The

of

In

from

containing
The

and
1

those

rows

by

connected

were

from

be

it

third

through

invention

an

of

of

arranged

machine

in

of

rows

by griffez (Fig.83),
Hooks

griffez.

by knotting the

2, 6, 3, 7, 4, and

cation
"communi-

It consisted

moved

second

cylinder

; in the

patent for

needles
were

the

single

English design.

foreigner."

first four

the last four

and

received

and

in

lift,
singlecylinder

it may
of

where
crank

double

the

on

an

parts only work

by moving

warp

not
cei-tainly

hooks

200

the

origin;

certain

of the

second

without

shaft, except

Crossley type,

built

F. Lambert

1820

eight.

it is

; in the

power

moving

loom

put upon

doubtful

Jacquard, but

saves

revolution

first machine

principleis

the

of

of the

is

139

considerably increased

for every

once

so

tear, for the

speed

cylinder machines
strikes

and

risingone,

place, speed

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

t from

rows

neck

cords

also

similarly

were

v ;

coupled.
Needles

in

rows

1, 2, 3, 4, and

those

6, 6, 7,

An

8.

governed by
needles

on

hooks

in

rows

5, 6, 7, 8, acted

on

hooks

in

rows

ordinary swinging
neck

swan

back

in

1, 2, 3, 4, acted

for two

attached

sheds, if holes for the first

for the

second

Hooks

hand-loom

needle

were

was

levers

griffesz^ z\
z

to

exactly the

probably
m

also

the first

used

with

and

two

its rise

as

on

the

for two

answer

5, 6, 7, 8, and

rows

4.

they

as

and

the

spring,and

the

loop at

treadles

card

same

grid x

By elevating z'

begin

cut

were

1, 2, 3,

rows

machines,

contained
a

on

griffez only,held

to

made

picks,and

cylinder motion,

for

began

were

the
its

are

bottom

spring

to-day
board.
box

end.

Two

used

to

first

pick,and

fall,time

was

in
It

^, and

pendent
indeactuate
ing
caus-

saved,

PART

The

of

motion

it is derived

from

conveyed by

Rod

arms.

over

its crank

of

motion

to

is

from

and

keyed

upon

the

beyond

level

by

set

fast to the

made

are

end

outer

fastened

also

are

point immediately

7, that

arms

17

aj)proximatelyon

19

and

adjustablelevers

lever

z' ;

grifFes
z^

ordinary swinging cylindermotion.

rod

crank

16, lever
Each

cylinder a.
cylindera

to

levers

support

cylinder

to

of

somewhat

point

of

driving shaft,

main

series

extend

vertical

an

the

As

to

18

upon

framing

should

Two

framing.

16, and

143

independent

the

on

18 ; the latter

and

grid x,

crank

is connected

shaft

with

is

cylinder a

rod

16

horizontal

screws

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

17, shaft

it

gives

18, levers

vibrating

19,

7, and

arms

part being adjustable,it follows

be

can

revolves

set

strike

to

needles

when

that

griffez

or

M
Fia.

low

is too

different

lengthsof

griffe cranks

cylindercrank

should

single catch

forward, but

Jacquard
it has
with

one
a

in

and

on

catch
of

curve

it off lantern

bar

slides

this bar

also

on

are

21

taken

top and

be

or

moved

level

under

just

to

top edge
before

is used

to

the

that

to

of

slipunder

rotary motion

it

forward

catch
is

back;
of the

lantern

into

comes

stop further

cylinder a

framing

corner

the

centre.

to turn

the end

top

side

centres,

turn

to

double-throw

bottom

is used

left down

fast, throws

the

its front

near

by hand

with

bearings
the

on

their

(Fig. 84)

the

on

the

When

them.

be

in too

and

out

on

should

that

if the latter is

; but

that

up

bearings bolted
a

pushed off, also

be obtained

can

stabs

off, and

cards

be

/ to

long, the cylinder moves

if too
the

dwell

will be

short, hooks

too

hooks

allow

to

85.

c ;

contact

motion,
k and

given

to

a.

lift
A

MECHANISM

144

bell crank

cord

to

weaver

the

end

rear

down
and

grasp
and

WEAVING

part

freelyupon

moves

passes

slides out

21

22

supports

arm
arm

lever

OF

to

of

bar

cylinder a

its lower
for

height

time

Every

its vertical

21 ; from

convenient

pull it.

turns

pin, and

it is
in

over

the

pulled, bar

the

backward

direction.
machine

this

In
and

card

griffesare
a

at

in

hole

is

opposite extremities
card

is

vertical,and

them.

If, on

the

needle, before

hook

it must

As

end, the knife

consequence

both

must

act

hook

lifts a thread
to

second

at

slack,and
have

can

until

shed

both

hook

takes the thread

are

be

to

hook

made

the

on
are

the
as

the

together,
if

twitch

the

the second

neck

and

is easy

break

is reversed

hook

the

But

upon

warp

cord

ascending
changes

threads, one
the

top.

the warp,

the neck

amongst

to

of

centre

warp
at

by

rising hook

up,

arrives

one

begins

control

At

warp.

other

of this machine

of motion

what
some-

is arrested

the first

as

positions of the

action

the direction

tied

where

The

to

certain

hence,

it,but

left

the

lowest

be

can

the top.

bottom

tendency

it

the

at the

the

puts

being

thread

rise

of

opposite

equally tight,and

arrives

it has

lift one

fulcrum.

is taken

again to

in

to

will

swing slightlyat

to

powerless to

this slackness

cords

neck

begins

lifted

effect

no

; this

cords

warp

If

top shed, immediately that

is,however,
the

back

falls with

which

hook,

because

once,

the

to

neck

same

thread

fall the

latter

fall ; the

the

push

needles,but

serving as

of two

upon

is

one

both

hooks

two

rise will

lifted hook

by allowing a

begins

and

when

blank

can

lifted

the

hooks

of strain upon

the lowest

needle

through

act

reduced

the

that

alternately,

movement.

needle,

succeeding card,

same

their

grifFeto

next

fall

needles

of

opposite any
the

and

the

pressed against

remain

amount

rise

grifFesz^ z\

cords

them,

and

but
when
the

rapid strokes
double

lift

to

summarised

the

bottom

weaker

shed

open

(5)

the

leave

cards

and

break,

flat steel

Two

the

on

pieces of

outside

steel

the

inside

sets

of

of

double

tend

to

and

the

achieved
thus

that

able
consider-

bend

and

difficult

and

has

cards

against a
round

batten, press
hence

three

on

hooks

preventing all

such

both

sides of the

excessive

"crown"

above
so

hook

lifted

the

top

much,

that

all blades

Or

left down.

the

leg above

grifieblades

left down.
L

to

vibration

the

on

heads

This

them.

inventors

led

edges of

bottom

by extending a

top of hooks

the

to

to

screws

two

cylinder pegs,

up

or

lengthening hooks

of

set

press

fallinggrifles
drop

deepening griffeblades
heads

and

greatlyto prevent flyingofll

hooks

matter,

positions the
the

semi-

tendency

are

cylinder,and

the
hold

by

and

batten

of the

close upon

left down

as

than

getting

necks

fastened

High speeds frequentlyset

such

sink

get broken

to

and

the

face

springscombine

serious

subjected to

wire, similarlyattached

card

cylinder,and

hooks

warp

to

one

have

are

springs are
rail

cross

upper

amongst

with

fear of

no

liable

are

threads, hence
up

Cards

features

level.

tie up

card

are

needles

cords

set,

one

Its defects

strain,neck

the

all in

single

less time

in

warp

upon

with

allowing it

(4) beating

cylinder,they

stabbed; hooks

to

used

be

the other.

before

strain

of

(1) Lifting

"

(2) shedding performed

can

yarns

that

; these

one

Its central

without

times

single lift ; (3) less

with

to

of

number

rapidlyas

as

minute.

follows:

as

the cards

upon

exceeds

speed

picks per

20 to 30

any

moving

Still its

cylinder.

be

thread

from

145

harsh

cylinderare

machine

from

by

may

of the

the

prevent
a

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

of
is

apply remedies,
of

row

are
same

their

in

always
result

the hook
from

needles,
lifted

below

may

be

and
itself,

reaching the

Notwithstandingthese

and

VING

WEA

OF

MECHANISM

146

inventions,the great

similar

narrow

Double

cylindermachines

double
lift,

most

correct
theoretically

there

is

made

friction

and

somewhere,
division
all odd

of

picks,the

should

bring
; but

order

of cards

into two

other all

even

of

their

of material

is

the

machine

framing.

All

for

simply

the

grid X,

Neck

cords

together,therefore
pairsare moved by
"

"

'
.

*
.

"

'

"

"

them

distribute
v

it will

needles

consecutive

them

be
m

from

considerable
if cards

fabric

length
not

are

be

must

singlelift

two

hooks

combined

woven,
un-

which

cylinderfrom

set

one

bent

found

actuated

that

by

are

back

one

they
bent
; this

surface
are

hooks

cards

quards,
Jac-

in

equallyalong the
two
contiguous rows

from

they

High speeds render

governed, but the bottom

loops of
forward, whilst those of the other set are
to

in

prevent

are

is done

containing

difficult to satisfactorily

time, and

and

t face

hooks

the

spoiled.

is

(Fig.86)
long needles

with

found

damaged

the pattern will be

or

This

short

working properly,either

needles

rotation.

doubly troublesome,
in

in

alternately,and

will

this matter

woven

seems

part

case

one

"

it

weak

this

parts

been

that

true

; but

in

the

has

apply anything

slay,and

ones.

before

practiceit

market, for

changes are

have

to

part is found

all cards

in

getting out

minimum

cylindersstrike

machine

The

to

the

in

speed of

the

things invented

that

set

half

at

probably the

are

part when

any

reduced

are

the fate of all

to be

Jacquards

strain upon

everythingmoves

and

wear

undue

no

Machines

Cylinder

Double

"

with

furnished
in use
are
Jacquards now
blades and hooks, as previouslydescribed.
of

majority

part

on

of
tied

forming
different

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

cylinders,also

that

if

needle

one

147

is in the

top, the

other

\\\\S\\\2'

"e

the

bottom

laced

row

; for this

forwards, and

those

reason

of the

the

cards

othet-

of

one

backwards.

set

must

is

MECHANISM

148

Cylinders
when

that

them

from

is

one

both

the

moved

are

griflfes
z^ z\ by parts resembling those
the

part of Crossley'smachine, but

this machine

for

is
be

cylinders must
pressingcard
will

be

as

of

"

the

of

of them

dolls," is often

in

holes

and

fall

the

as

2, the

number

2 rises

knows

weaver

It

will

at

of

two

stopped

when

cut

in,

number

or

as

between

noticed
a

has

that

the
gone
the

is

suspended

in

opposite

lift these

to

by

boards

picks.

16

or

the

rise

correctly,but

as

an

interval

liftingof

the

of

weaver's

the

hook

8, 12,

and

; it consists

is followed

soon

upon

"

boards

2 ; each

cards

working

are

1,

of

atus,
appar-

trouble

level with

spare

in the

with

cylinderto

unlocking

machines
a

intervals

cards
before

these

from

something

be

detector,not
The

discarded.

large figures 1,

are

picks intervenes

more

is

other

moves

one

blockhead

"

as

on

thread

succession, but

long

the

introduced

been

been

placed on

in

mounting

machines,

shaft, or

cylinder a

entailingextra

have

found

numbered

and

eye,

the

needles, cylinder

defective

or

known

flat wood

piecesof

from

parts,

simple detector,

two

loom

impossibilityfor

an

other, but

most

weaver,

by

it

rendering

complication

former, hence

touching

not

have

locking motions

get before

the

of

forming

as

griffez ascends,

out,

moves

but

facing

the

bottom

set

of

driving crank

Assuming

own

far

as

descends.

griffez

view

shaft.

top

card

the

is

independently

described

of

manner

other

speed of

that

from

against its

holding

Numerous
a

the

needles, then
and

driven

from

by gearing

half

only

such

in

its needles

touching

possible;

as

part

bars

coupled by

are

a,

WEAVING

OF

So
of

diately
imme-

of

one

or

boards, the

wrong.
above

is

plan

merely

preventer.

followingcontrivances
anything

goes

wrong

show
with

how
the

loom

cards

can

"

be

ZIDZ*

Fio.

87.

i when

and

m,

is maintained
needle
will

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

PART

when

then

card

; if

not,

lever 42

rise and

faces

hole

is not

in

and

simpler than,
loom

needles.

requires
that
Hook

hook

rotation

true

be

back

opposite
; the

latter

^////^/^j^^^y"y/^///////y/////////y//A
f^///yy/////A

Devoge's

the

will

card

holding

Fig.

It

m', if

needles

stop the loom.

y/////////////A

is

i5"

must
t

Stop-motion

quite

two

as

spare

be

88.

satisfactory as,

hooks

moved

(Fig. 88)

has

at

by
an

the

the

going.
fore-

driving side

of

opposite grifFesand

eye

formed

at

short

MECHANISM

52

above

distance
elbow

lever

into

hook

t.

Instead

board

upon

hold

they

cut

in

unison

hook

not

and

to

stop the loom

needle
and

of

As

if
a

blank

will

42

bend

to
can

after

t has

be

let

Cards

then

picks

must

to

the
left

cut, then

when

are

opposite

needle

the

needle

i goes

down

must

lingoe is

stop if they

and

lifted,needle

t is

the

the

is

back

press

will

latter

followingcard

at

ployed
em-

when

stopping
it to

hook

simply

move

movement.

cause

time

in

that

will

rise

opposite
and

coil; therefore,

be

cards

blank,
For

and

push

hook

are

of
t

be

5, 7
6,

put

to

blank,

be
be

can

picks 1, 3,

12

out

get

with

cards

1, 3, but

blank, if 2, 4, 6

is

spiral

/',
any

back

t'

and

as

the

blank.
cut

for

can

be

8, 10, 12

rotation,a hole

lifted;

on

will fall

falls,^ will

stop the loom.

rise and

Open-shed
To

to

adopted

cut

round.

cut, 7, 9, 11

from

from

odd-numbered

holes

and

arm

governs

q^

it is

lifted.

top cylinder and

2,

loom

in the

hole

that

eye

upward

every

spring;
its upper

box

cord

pushed forward,

example,

an

each

prevent

cutting

immediately

correctly,and

lever

cause

in

an

way
coiled mid-

needle

/' is raised.

case

; thus

and
as

of

arm

(Fig.87), which

43

t after

are

but

m,

system

in

to

working

are

serve

extra

grifFe.

lever

lower

framing, and

its

^ off its

pull down
are

to

eye in the

between

startinghandle
Cards

the

ordinary spring

of elbow

arm

to

are

an

to

the lower
the

of

part

of wire

end

in the

supplementary

threaded

and

pin

upon

is made

42

its fulcrum

looselyfitted
takes

passes

VING

which

grid a:, through

42

between

WE

OF

make

necessary

changes only

is the

ideal

system

Jacquards
when
of

changes

are

absolutely

shedding, because

friction

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

and

reduced,

breakages are

difficult

of

advantages

made

derived

be

that

of

Sutcliffe consists

and

length of time,

hooks

legs

in

The

lifted

holding a

allowing weft

long

adopted

avoid

to

board

bottom

rather,

equally
the

neck

double

of

use

and

benefits

up

for any

be

beaten

into

and

cords.

Each
which

loss

both

has

been

form

the

arising from

hook

rests

upon

cord

neck

single

moving

hook, with

This

bent.

double

the

on

needle

double

Cheetham

by

hook

to

one

trouble

through

w,

the

is constructed

machine

(Fig.89), or

15"

the

without

secured

be

men,

that

Jacquard,

invented

with
lift,single cylinder principle,
two

different

counteract

machine

thus

and

shed.

fullyopen

shall

than

more

by

; but

system.

feature

central

The

the

from

model

so

shedding

open

creating difficulties
to

to

is increased

steadiness

and

notwithstanding repeated attempts

it is still found

153

passes.
At

point 4^"

i' is formed
it from

bottom

griffez

plate is
allow

bolted

from
in

form

advance
bars
A
upper

inside

to

each

opposite ends

of

to

of

24, and

to

of
pass

2"

edges parallelwith,

are

4.

All

of

above

the

top griffez

whilst

frame

touch

hole is drilled in the

through

deep, and
but

on

v,

and

second

drilled

; the

pins

cross

retain

above,

rail

^^ which, with

near

the

to

ject
pro-

similar
23

and

two

with

J"

in

sliding

pins.
end

each

brackets

the

of

those

projectionson

capable of swivellingon

griffeframe

7J"

wrought-iron plates 23,

griffeblade, but

knife

ing
suspend-

plates2J" deep.

end

pins

lower

their

plates 11" deep,

secured

are

of

purpose

fixed

hook

internal

an

framing.

horizontal

eight

for the

\\' deep, those

are

slotted

in

fixed

are

end

the

to

griffeblades

All

leg

stationarygriffe^2,

bolted

brackets

back

each

on

board

the bottom

above

on

of the
the

end

26

(i

g)
2"

pieces,holds
the

edges ;

horizontal

two

bars

centred

z* that

the former

pins,8" long by \' in diameter,

that

the

by

pin

one

swivellingpiece 26,

is

brought

free

turn

to

ends

of

allow

and

pins

descends,

26

26

surfaces, force
and

to

vibrate

of

fallinghooks,

into

pendent
the

from

descending
griffe,but

of

frame

hook

this

from
similar

with

contact

z^ and

is

only

to
a

hang

in that

pushed
takes

card

Since
presses

push
that

and

sink

card

the

of

out

they

of

needed

to

press

press

the

griffe
the

upon

clined
in-

plates23

cause

free

legs

risinggriffefrom

z2

similar

move

are

reach

back

of

z^ z'

then

above

each

ascending

level.

are

J"

above

the

the bars

over

the

off

by

happens
z2

needle

in

to

in

be

up.

cylinder

as

force

blank

required

little, if any,
a

of

pattern requires them

pushed

m,

bowls

project

leg

the

spring

griffe that

is

free

t' about

the

against needles

clear

respective

when

other

hooks

lifted

are

them

their

the

place when

they
with

hooks

all

the

position until

change it, when

carried

swivelling pieces that

thus

top of stationary grifibz2

and

are

but

griffez

liftinggriffeelevates

bowls,

bowls

edges against the

prevent

that

opposite

bowls

lower

surface

is

to

round
;

slidingrod

again.

up

arms

griffe

brackets

slidingbars 25,

thus

hooks

carrying those
Two

and

set of

to

antifriction

two

these

pass

the

back

each
upper

by

As

to

and

their

carry

of

one

partly

bowls

rigid

are

of

inclined

z.

turn

the

end

secured

griffeframe

pieces

5?,

with

relation

are

long

second

of

griffez.

an

studs, and

upon

bottom

by

up

to

with

contact

fast to

are

the

of

one

positionswith
to

into

ends

occupy
a

take

bottom, upon

same

set

fitted

Loosely

ends

in the

fixed

plates23

its inner

against

to
vertically

their lower

griffeplates,and

25

the

from

J"

155

slidingbars

drilled

are

iron

eight upright
each

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

PART

more
an

to

than

ordinary

MECHANISM

156

OF

hooks

Crossley machine, assuming

similar

WEAVING

make

pushing-offplates 23

matter

to

otherwise

into

see

the

and

machine

speciallyconstructed

made

of

to

general application,
as,

saving

cards

machine

results

would

be

placed

over

combined

at

both

saved
a

Or

after

weaving

as

many

failingthat,
the

last border

of cards.

up

of

fabric
first
;

"

to

once

border,

from

one

that

of sufficient

of

there

the

other

ordinary

an

cards

machine

repeats of

two

and

six

are

side

border

length of piece,would

loom

the

but rather

cotton

the

fabrics

ously).
parts simultane-

repeats of middle

make

to

be

must

in which

fast-nmning loom,

in each

manufacturers

and

with

other

repeat of side border

one

one

compared

as

necessary

twice

are

chiefs,
handker-

produced

computation

|- of

of

or

last-named

the

moderate

be

(the Jacquard

produce

cards

others

considerable

manufacture

pattern, and

border

border, and

required.

are

Verdol, Shields,

employed,

the

for all

repeats of middle, then

full set

is

in

all round

Assuming

for the

the

can

to

are

example,

border

compass

whilst

compound,

for

some

classes of fabrics,such

towels,

middle

repair,but

kinds

table-covers, bedcovers,

repeat of end

difficult

Bonelli.

cross-border
in

somewhat

various

certain

weave

of

If

of

are

cross-bordered, swivel, and

Bessbrook, and

it

Machines

as

as

be

to

well.

works

Card-saving Jacquards

end

both

parts needing

at

get

Card-saving

and

in

wire.

The

with

part

and

than

would

put

on

once

adopt

stop

change

to

the middle
to

the

goods, at least,incur

be

cards

replace them
latter
the

course

cost

of

MECHANISM

158
is hooked

the

at

OF

top

prevent

to

The

approjcimately 4 J" long.

the

by pins

27

top

row

needles

by succeeding

tows

the

side

number

that
or

to

cards

cylinder it'must

on

the

of

pattern

Eight

would

horizontal

long enough

to

reach

top
of
of

on

be

be

WEAVING

m,

it

part

from

falhng,

of m'

and

succeeding

cylinder
inverted

as

to

are

rows

consequence,

faces
face

is

connected

rows

pins

and

the
the

of
if

needles,

cylinder,

spoiled.

bars
across

28

are

^" wide, ^" deep,

the

machine,

each

is set

and
to

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

the back

touch

bar

on

occupy

hooks,

two

if the

point of

card.
rows

of

the

rows

of

top

in the gap

Needles

instead

bending
is to

the

m', which
and

second

The

the

difficult

bar

is between

of

round

coilingah

fulcrum
from

Cylinders

a,

back

to

to

eye

the

without

hooks

; this

q^ to

or

18, and

than

wire

each

7, 7' have
studs

20, 20',fixed

stud

20

and

is in
is in

the

automatic

out

rod

16

motion.

links 30, 31, the

7'.

also

to

cord

quadrant

of

or

7, stud

Changes

former
wire

handle

of

is bolted
32

is

to

them

taken.
the

in

described

as

cylinder arms
to

receive
When

rocking-lever9.
20' is in the

arm

27

upon

been

attached

secured

33, which

all

are

made

are

pins

(Fig.91),horizontal
; but

end

been

action

of

19,

arms

in

holes

ing
card-repeat-

in

oppositeends

notch

needles

it has

threading

and

of

pins

hooked

and

28

two

desirable, and

but

remove,

notched, slotted
at

is

evidently

vertical

at

similar purpose.

idea has

Connecting

"

serve

27, and

put

them

between

pass

of

tendency

pushed through

are

in Nuttall's

are

to

flat bars

the

risk

the heel- rack

from

see

on

distant
equi-

are

work

Crossley'ssinglecylinder machine

for

to

long

more

which

followingmanner
17, shaft

bars

remaining

two

m'.

pins

pin, as

machine,

arm

six

comes

greatlyimproved by using
instead

by

bottom

too

of

back

pressed

the

contains

are

been

long enough

set

machine

parts

had

m',

flangesof spring box

the inside

positions they would

the

m,

support

made

are

the

prevented by supporting

first

gether
to-

w,

between

pushing

large extent

points;

m,

of

needle

passed

the

much

swivels

27

is

between

are

hence, if

28

bar

and

m,

row

corresponding

into

needles

one

pushed back, pin

needle

Top

bottom

/"' is

back

with

blank

draws

and

28

that form

pins 27

needle

supplementary

all

of

i59

by

slot of

lever

7, and
to

the

lever

is retained

29

in

7',
and

latter

29, and
a

fixed

x6o

MECHANISM

positionby
By moving

of

one

handle

OF

to

the

places,cylinder

arm

PART

the

on

stop, studs

next

Fig.

VING

projections

two

33

WE

quadrant
20

face.

20', change

91.

begins

to

act, and

becomes

stationary.
Double-shed

In

weaving

of weft

to

be

such

fabrics

placed one

as

above

Machine

swivels
the

that

requiretwo

other, instead

picks

of side

by

side, attempts
the

be

and

the

formed

that

shed.

paper

greater extent.

As

compass

each

of this

leg

each

To

whilst

card.

rows,

Griffe

the
block

to

t6i

both

pasB

which

accomplish
receive

to

wefte

through
aheda

two

ground material,

weft.
in

Pearson,
to

the

is

1868, constructed
but

slight extent,

It has

other

by

the other

Jacquard

and

one

is moved

contains, for the swivel

numbered

saves

be vertical

can

it

and

leg being longer than

one

made

lower

for swivel

Howartb

much

been

the

"

upper

Messrs.
machine

have

simultaneously.

warp

must

to

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

double

by

is inclined

only equal

pattern

must

ground pattern
1 contains

depth

; but
to

of

the

cut

upon

all blades

swivel

one

the effective

half

be

(Fig.92),

needle,

separate

time

saves

hook

the

needles

upon

even

4,

oddof

ones

eo,

as

it

MECHANISM

i62

all

ascends,
hooks

all

short

long enough
This

makes

machine

under

floats

Cards

in such

set

could

ones

later.

caught
double

cylinder a

pendent
inde-

be

held

be

not

by

one

must

back

liftingthem.

without

pass

weft

ground

same

one

of

rows

of

holes

decked

the

as

manner

and

of

the

first

the

needle

on

pattern is
even-

on

Jacquard only differs

ordinary descriptionin having

board

and

empty,

alternate
motion

cylinderor cylindersresembling

weaving

as

the

If

needles.

other

are

of 8

10

patterns containingan

multiple of

is moved

eightrepeats
a

necessary,

-h 2

the

in

figured effects

are

and

pattern

of

but

one

and

results

of the

repeats of singlewidth

equal number

other,

compound

pattern

saving

width,

can

Compound
Certain

of

repeats

many

repeat of cards, doubled

instead

the

of the second

one

Such

card.

required,the cylinderlever
face

pick of

patterns

that

for

dobby (seep. 88).

After

to

Cards

of

by cutting two

that
rows,

in

the

to

Set

one

saved

of every

rows

from

attached

on

manner

odd-numbered

on

long, and

to

to

be

imperfect cloth, because

sometimes

are

numbered

is

legs will

hooks

it

Patterns

Two

cut

short

some

figure in preciselythe

the

odd -numbered

weft.

swivel

one

assuming

by

given

allow

to

part

"

vertical

griffe,or

VING

legs namely,

is formed

the

of

long

Motion

leg.

WE

taken, and

first

singleshed

A
a

be

pushed back,

are

vertical

short

will

"

OF

fabrics

be

of

as

in

repeats

using

usual

Only

when

this

one

length,

cards.

on

are

brought

two

picks,or

produced

one

plan.

Machines
that

frequently made

depend
from

upon

colour

Jacquards

for
with

two

of

sets

liooks

hooka

to

ooe

I\ \

rows

whilst

to

all

of

set

by griffe t (Fig. 93)

moved

face
rows

the
of

needle
hooks

163

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

placed

are

\V|

\ ,\ \

points,
moved

and

needles

and

by

in

All

succeeding

lift when

a" face

cards.

the

vertical;

spring box.

i64

MECHANISM

and

left down

are

colour,

and

with,

vertical,and

threads

lifted

independently of

in

governs

twill

is

down

plain or

blue

shed.

this

time

card

needles, but
in, and

moves

is

doing, but

its

machine,

gauge
in

lines

two

of

draw

of blue

warp

through

pressed against
out,

turns

over,

the

work

it is

capable of

in

invented

which

and

the
close

so

by

selectingneedles
each

band

and

other
of paper

middle, where

militate

against the

small

placed
in any

only ^' x yV'

are

about

it is doubled

in the

are

needles

together that

to

ingenious

very

the

ness
thick-

in thickness

peg-holesare

cut

to

it forward.

Three
machine

causes

in

high-speed looms.

of the
lack

Verdol

moved

are

ends

p.

Jacquard

Verdol

but
ordinary writing-paper,

both

on

threads

is driven

moves

for the

right angles

at

All

apart.

at

lines

zigzag

are

applicationis necessarilylimited.

M.

1884

latter

warp

those

are

white

against the needles, when

machine

The

In

again repeated.

excellent

an

card

the

remained

now

hooks

white

weft

and

explained

as

with

blue

has

cylinder a

pushes

foregoing process
It is

z^ and

twill

During
the

by

move

between

order; but

up

first.

only

when

occupying positionscorresponding with

previouslyleft

and

put

one

the

from

against needles

Jacquard,

goes

of

warp

colour

weft

the
z

part

threads

warp

plain or

drops, and

card

presses

of white

pick

VING

separate actions

blue

say,

warp

202, then

vertical ;

griffeshave

rises

WEA

differingin

picks,thus

in two

griffez

when

lifts threads

Cylinder
once

OF

of

atmosphere

uniformity,tends

in
to

extensive

use

of this

First,the hygroscopic

weaving
curl

and

sheds

dition
con-

which, through

rumple

the

paper

MECHANISM

i66

opposite end
bars

38

another
and
in

of the
so

for

the

of

series

than

which

with
The

coiled

latter

them

of

space
into
a

driver

vertical

As

with

of

arm

against the Jacquard

against

an

41

any
needle

plates,and

m,

its

leave

but

needles

vertical

m,

needle

band

is

passed

should

latter

is

will
the

against the

back

will be

will pass

tained
con-

advance

to

of

range

are

driver is lifted

push

turbed.
undis-

both

made

where

and

needle

invention

now

its head

lifts

of the

and

into

needles

move

hole leaves

is

of

down,

over

the

head

t out

hook

41

and

blank

of

straight end

plate

verticallythrough

moves

which

box

is left

driver

brass

paper

plate 40

end

rear

hook

to

take

angle plate its

therefore

paper

and

the paper.

or

and

regular distances

angle bar 38,

frame

which

periphery

previouslystated, all parts

in

paper

the

force up

the

until

and

from

Plate

paper.

contact

permits needles

by wheels,

at

forated
per-

protrude through

not

cylinder,the

37.

40

cylinderplateis elevated,in

rotated

^^V'^^ i' ^

plate

paper,

curved, perforated

project

the

do

but

vided
pro-

are

driver

of

slotted

All

govern

gauge

enter

and

lieu of

and

pegs

peg-holesin

39

the

40

the

from

by

thicker

any,

fall.

maintained

gives way

in

hook

support and

to

when

Below

of which

between,

pass

little,if

39

to

All needles

between

to

and

one

support for all the drivers

eye

rows

zigzag

employed

by

between

37

free to rise and

in

touch.

when

drivers

part

rectangularparallel

room

are

position is

the

case

and

of

needles

vertical

plate40, except

also

leave

suspended by

are

they

plate41.

39

of

to

forms

vertical

wire,

rose

grid,in

ends
arm

VING

series

a
as

rear

WEA

row.

is

box

secured

are

each' horizontal
one

OF

needle,

grifFez
pushed

between

the

but

back

angle

bar.
griflfe

fall

by

its

own

weight, aided

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

part by the weight of

in

driver ;

impossible,a trap-board is brought

all level after every

force

If this
firms

machine

exclude

complications will
cuttingmachinery
is

for

exist

may

ordinary and
with
two

of cards

sets

suit the

The

yet

necessitate

of

cost

machine

such

patterns have

but

at

concern

In

1859

in

class of

work,
the

for
set

extra

to

present time

class of

view

have

attacked

have

some

remodelled

reducing
have

we

expensive

inventors

have

to

inventions

felt with

are

when

Many

problem

be made

experienced

been

the

run.

to

are

introduced, and

with

of sufficient

the

It is

cards.

especial

more

present.
Shields

invented

card, also

picks.

The

of

in

warp,

making

idea has been

inventors, of whom

Wein,

fitted

cutting an

side, whilst others

leaving down

liftingor

for

cut

demand

was

the

to

always

latter

the

of cards

looms

the

large patterns

short

the harness

machine,
with

at

their attention

it from

Verdol

are

placingJacquards

in which

ever-increasingforce
turned

two

card-

Jacquard

Bessbrook

looms

the

since

of

sets

different

material, have
fine, closely-placed

ever

and

serious

or

sets

four

machines,

idle,and

be

and
difficulty

capacityover
from

to

available.

looms

The

grid

that for the

pattern, if

same

VerdoFs

pattern would

assumed

more

the

will

makes,

Again,

required for

be

either may

the

upon

instance,two

costlyone.
for

two

sticking

grifFe.

required,and

will be

weaving

down

all other

For

arise.

and

elaborate

an

to render
still,

replacesordinary Jacquards, the

ever

it must

using

lift of the

167

1887-88,

machine

one

be

card

the
for

serve

developed by

many

1869, and

mentioned.

capable of

was

of
irrespective

Barcroft, in
may

that

tions
perforatwo

or

ing
succeed-

Tschomer

OF

MECHANISM

i68

it is

As

impossible here

taken

entire fabric

interwoven

the

thread

one

repeat of the

and

of

way
over

threads

of

to

picks
one

here
or

the

to

would

of

could

the next

warp,

remembered

In

of

warp,

the

three

again,two
two
or

hooks
four

greater the

1200

needle

pick,

one
as

many

for

inch, or

per

in

ordinary pattern,

an

picks

to

one

advantages;

picks

in

to

400

times

would

card

have

to

400x3

nine

other
in

machine

hooks

cards

or

distort

each

to

by another,
that

has

alteration

inserted,or

card.

three

equals three

alteration

would

picks. By
both

Then

cient
suffi-

hooks,

twilling

assume

card.

card,

one

latter

The

fewer, picks

needle, three

one

first-named

be

will

we

each

more

or

more

require three

alteration ; thus, instead

four

three,or

repeat, which

picks to

of

one

twilling machine

the

considerable

but

added

are

ing
figure bind-

the

two, three,

suffice for two,

three

closeness

more,

lift

to

actuate

must

these

the

Parts

of

loosely

so

is not

Bessbrook.

instance,

be

ground binding. This, however,

must

Jacquards ;

as

repeat

is

ground

from

three

needle, and

where

together.

each

from

threads

lift all warp

placeswould

hold

ordinary Jacquard,

instead

the

bind

to

thread

needles, and

warp

twill,satin, or

all down

leave

the advantage
illustrating

an

400

and

rising,and

needle

card

one

of the

"Bessbrook"

the

or

is to

alone

scarcelyto

as

one

through

illustration

interlacingis used,

fabric in many

pattern from

machine

fabrics,in which

cards

of

but

prevent

Barcroft's

of

figureis formed,

required;

the

together.

action

where

to

all

applicableto

The

part

for the purpose.

regular system

some

follow

to

suffice,and

principlemust
It is

VING

stages of development, one

all its various

will be

WEA

merely require

proportion

to

the

card,

two

or

to

for one,
can

be

and
moved

by all; but
number

of

three

by

for
one

it must

picks

be
to

card, and
of

hooke

to

needle, the

are,

have

or

several

been,

Besabrook, but generally the

hook

will

at

from

griffebars from

pick

of

books
no

an

irregularthe

more

outline

figure becomes.

There

169

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

weft,

in that

inclined

although

blade
the

time^, only

is 16"

cause

card

will

heads

vertical

inventor

(Fig. 95)

to

vertical

and

row,

whether

matter

The

that

80

hooka

idea

to

lift

all to

has acted

some

has

been
one

move

blade

will
be

upon

leave

lifted

in

them

pushed

are

or

more

position for

or

lift all hooks

each

down
the

next,
; also

not

in

back;

at

all

row,

other

will rise.

accomplishes this
long, and

the

vertical

sometimes

of

of

pointH, and

two

inclined

an

leading

modifications

has

as

follows:

closed

"

loop

Every
formed

hook
at

the

MECHANISM

I70

bottom
end

by bending the

round

the

hooks

in

of

row

the

WE

VI NG

back, and

the

shed,

each

through

passes

wire

long leg ;

equal the depth

the

OF

then

twisting the

length of loop must,

4".

say

When

loops and

in

rests

slotted

all

58, which

bar

least,

at

in action

not

supported by

are

PART

framing

59

(Fig.96).
Attached
hooks
in

opposite ends

to

60, that rise

and

supported

turn

the

to

of

level of

held

bar

every

back

ordinary hooks,
from

thick

two

are

and

are

needles

grifFez by

o="

Fio.

m'.
upon

These

needles

them

to rest

Every

blade

position on
they

are

notched
at
a

in

one

moved

is free
a

to

in twos

or

to

receive

a
are

grid. Immediately

cylinder d

is

more

the

from

enters

by

under

spiralsthreaded

have

platen,

turn

that

pin

projectionson
end,

long, and

againstneedle

perforatedplate,but
a

16"

are

96.

an

the

inclined

in front

of

placed parallelwith

the

to

tical
ver-

griffe frame,

and

62, which

they

spiralspring,and
left flat at the

61.
a

flat bars
side \

collar

and

have

rounded

are

passed through

other

end

flat ends

cylinder a,

to
a

but

work

pegged
at

the

opposite
the

end

of

griffeblock,

and

falls.

It

cannot

strikes

end

the

bring

to

bars

Jacquard

and

moves

be
of

fresh

62, and

place

hooks.

pushed

upon

which

but

for Icis

ratchet

65

69, which

and
each

by

72

rests

upon

the

catch

from

from

in

pick by

the

ratchet

shall

be

The

67

pawl
the

of

(held

arm

worked

backwards.
a

from

being

teeth

on

an

stud, and

of

arm
con

lower

leg of

catch

71.

A;,and

part of the latter holds

and

prevents

the
times

many

in

number
the

it

contact,
of teeth
card

same

needles.
catch

pegged

62 will turn

pick,

vibratinggriffeshaft

Iz also

by tappet 66,

is

usual

is moved

the

is fulcrumed

tappet 66, and

the

in

i)art brings them

how

the

ratchet

the tappet

upon

hollow

presented to

twillingbars

stud.

upon

; both

tappet 66

cylinder a

65, determine

barrel

and

the

are

attached

^, bolted

turn

of

is controlled

When

not

the
a

metal

necks

full

lantern

blades,

it every

pawl

to

twilling

more

h does

to

of

out

in

round

hooks.

shape

pendent

piecesof

c'

twilling

and

vertical

of

tappet 66.

which

and

lever 70

of

sliding motion

The

centred

lantern

ends

or

be

to

partly

two

swan

65

spring).

turning, but

therefore

catch

is secured

bowl

ratchet

is in turn

by

fitted upon

by rod and

nected

the

double

operated by

tooth

it

give

the

compounded
one

is moved

cylinder a

manner,

front

exactlyoppositethe

shafts

side

in

is free

vertical

this

doing

grifFerises

the

against the

grifFeby curved

their

that

moved

blades

bearings in

the

When

it is

some

In

in

as

finger 63

of pegs

60, immediately

The

down

depressed.

hooks

the blade

and

up

by

171

; it is fixed

finger 63,

set

thus

of their

reach

the

is rotated

lifted,but

to

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

two

to
or

in

carries
case

the

bowl

cylinder is

produce the desired

more

push correspondingtwillinghooks

blades
griffe
over

72*,

pattern,

vertical,

slantingblades.

OF

MECHANISM

172

Cylinder

blades

turned

where

the

where

twillinghooks
latter

griffe. The
A

loops.

griffegoes

card

has

by

the

number

and

upon

of

the

and

griffez

those

also all hooks

bars

58

the

in

in

range

from

the

pushed

rows
rows

of

the

bottom

shed, griffez descends,

twilling

bars

hooks

and

are

fresh

of

set

hooks, although

the

changed.

of

number

in

and

pressed against the needles, and

is

with

up

been

not

The

lifted

card

same

part

except

been

turned, other

is

the

moved,

up,

have

60

are

hooks

pick is passed through

barrel

are

VING

against the needles,

It will lift all vertical

rises.

the

card

presses

WEA

picks

to

number

needles

repeat of the

hooks

of

and

hooks

of

rows

that

depend

upon

binding pattern,
governed by

are

one

needle.
Electric

So

cards

to

turned
It

he

their
is

attempted

to

put

then

to

in

improve

for
electricity
A

Jacquard.

his former

application;

see

upon

to

Bonelli's

why
their

understood,

wished

have

promising subjects.

more

to

little

few

weak

and

used.

less

greatest deterring cause

Every

inventions

his

electricity
upon

Elec-

spots.

these

employ

inventions

own

premises
the

was

was

complex

of the machine.

nature

An

ordinary 400
parts

400

hooks

finger

generate

but, perhaps, the

substituted

proved unsuccessful,inventors
to

who

manufacturer

to

matter

easy

tricitywas

compelled

efforts

attention

an

failed,and

and

needles

both

since

Bonelli

1860

as

ago

move

later

years
but

long

Jacquard

metal

framing
Since

to

"

needle

Namely,

feelers,800
sustain
1860

and

400

Jacquard

had

armatures,

covered

the
400

tional
followingaddi-

electro-magnets,

wires, a battery and

suitable

put all in operation.

electrical

science

has

made

enormous

MECHANISM

174

horizontal
the

with

53,

armatureB

ends

and
of their

OF

axes.

holes

of

forwards
A

so

needle

for

third

WEAVING

that
and

each

shall

one

magnet

pick

of

weft

part

always
All

in

move

the

perforated vertical plate 54

large enough

to

take

an

armature

head

be

site
oppowards
back-

direction
is drilled

freely ;

of needles
the

upon

the bowls

m,

which
of

surface

upper

and

53

plate 64

down

inclined

will enter

hole

push

with

of the

end

One

needle

back

the

battery 55;
attached

to

which

bear

The

feeler

brought into,

or

of two

short

both

to

complete

platesare

taken

on

arm

51,

to

frame
press

the
The
are

circuit

The

time

the

poles of

is

the

battery is

of

plates 56,

as

upper

fitted

at

latter
the

upon

be

the

an

57

other,but

pass

done

through
until

the

inclined

extremity
towards

moves

lower

the

must

has

one

feelers 49, to

Circuit-breaker

placed above

upper

the

pattern plate is

with

the current

bowl,

operationis
touch
is

needle,

face,
sur-

of

an

magnets

plate,and

so

plete
com-

circuit.

dropped

feelers

means

the circuit ; this cannot

52, rolls
the

by

injuringit.

apart, and

which

its

the

pole of

of, contact

out

in contact.

upon

if

communicates

of

one

second

springplates,one

distance

with

previously mentioned,

as

every

prevent electric sparks from

consists

edges.

is broken

current

locking

t vertical ; but

magnet

at

pattern sheet

its

upon

thus

are

together.

ends

The

parts

inside,a needle

hook

all

of

advances,

its solid

if

are

the centres

frame

in contact

hook

end,

49.

points

centres

heads,

plate;

come

which

the

until

coils of every

wire

other

with

connected

and

wire

common

the

as

leave

will

of 53

outside,the head

the

54, and

in

but

the

of armatures'

outside

or

the

from

plane,and
with

incline

halves

upper

all either inside

the

with, the

moves

support locking plate 54

an

needles

moves

oppositethe

of, and

perforationsexactly coincide

its

armatures

at

175

the latter is farthest

When

slidingframe.

and

advance

placed slightlyin

it is

of

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

into
the

as

contact

metal

complete, and

follows
with
of

The

"

the

the

magnets

thin

metal

feelers

pattern sheet, and

pattern plate the

51

are

49

where

electric

magnetised.

They

MECHANISM

176
act

53

armatures

on

52, and

frame

OF

to

draw

them

prevent
heads

their

contrary, those feelers 49 that

pattern plate break
when

frame

52

that

armatures

face
of

be

presented

Feelers

dead

in

or

one

successive

will be

blanks

will

in

the

other.

rotated, and

the

tions
opera-

colours

metal

plates representingdifferent

be

patterns may
in the

same

grifFeof
crank,

is

it all

their heads

holes

case,

composed

shaft, and

or

of

connected

by

metal

types,

Lifts

eccentric, fixed

an

varnish.

movable

singlelift Jacquard

produced by

printingtypes.

as

way

be

can

by layers of

Machine

by

with

carry

more

colours,and insulatingthem

The

and

of the

consequently,

inside,locking plate 54, and

of two

superposing

up

varnish

the

again repeated.

Patterns

set

the

with

On

plate 54.

upon

magnets,

rise,the pattern sheet

49

are

Or

inside

rest

forward

moving

forward, it will

needles

to

part

the electric circuit ; and

moves

outside, instead

WEAVING

long

rod

is

generallyactuated
the

upon

driving

grifFelever

the

to

main

above

the machine.
Since

such

an

dwell

long enough

loom,

it becomes

reached
45"

its

when

allow

to

necessary

of its bottom

shuttle

to

to

pick

before

it reaches

as

point 45" past

be

shuttle

entered.

best, little

pick is

available

lever

that

the

the

across

the

griffehas

liftingcrank
shuttle

is

the

enters

just as deep

as

than

more

the

where

of

for dwell.

By securing the
to

at

of

that centre, the shed,

although closingrapidly,will
But

move

if the

centre

admit

not

highest point. Thus,

in advance

warp,

of parts does

arrangement

is

upper

placed

end
at

of

short

right angles

connecting
with

the

rod

crank

SHEDDING

JACQUARD

VI

shaft, and
12''

it

from

swings

18'' above

to

with

the

its

the

griffe lever

considerable

additional

Up,

344, for the

p.

end

rear

crank

177

at

centre, and

by

pause

height

then

means

of

will be

obtained.

effect

of

of

connecting

second

from

rod,
See

ing
Beat-

shortening a connecting

rod.

Although
to,

cams

certain

equals

and

pause

having

which

the

be

can

velocityof

any

fabrics

in which

either

picks,cams,
of

construction

the

picks to

one

negative

picks
hooks

of

and

has

suitable

cam

card, during the

Jacquard grifferemains

between

selection

other

and

more

or

shows

fabric

or

it

been

insertion

sinks, then, after

it rises

again

of

the

stationaryat

made,

for

top,

fresh

in

time

pick 5.
Let

it be
of

centre

is 3".

stud

cam

is

twelve

of

parts

making

further

between

describe

represent

into three

to

"

time

Four

for

six

of

centre

4".

Add
"

the
7"

equal parts,

lifting.

use
N

4c

into

The

smallest

to

Divide

space,

dwell.

"

first radius
circles

equal parts,

as

distance

friction bowl

cam

any

is

cam

2" in diameter.

and

lift of

four

making

divided

be

to the

divide

Next

and

for

lift

the

two
sinkingthe griffe,

radius.

1, 2, 3, 4, into

pick.

total time

stud

cam

between

that

may

for

radius

exists
also

cam,

treadle bowl

equal in

circle

lines

on

part of

this

3"

of

space

pick,the

and

act

and

namely, 3"+l"

to

pick;

changes,

centre

radial

J^of

follows

as

circle

by

is

thin

and

assumed

Describe

that

assumed

If its dwell

changes

and

frequentlyresorted

indispensable.

Fig. 98

for

length of

any

is

preferable,for they

cases

compound

two

positive,are

for

method

fall.

For

but

most

impart

to

rise and

last-named

in

are

shaped

card

the

each

say

Divide

a,

part
to

1,
tha

MECHANISM

178

remaining

d,

e, for

twelve

making

WE

VING

take

equal parta,

griffe,allow

changes,

and

the

the

four,

following parts,

two

the

employ

first

remaining six,

1, in liftingthe griffa

to

Divide

",

explained

in

into

c,

equal parta,

and

centres

described.

round

any

number

Tappet Shedding,

subdivide

then
of

into

d, for sinking the

c,

"

"

OF

use

which

Trace

p. 40

velj

rf,el,
successi
the
thick

(here

into

the

six

parts,

are

that

bowl

niunber

same

circles

touches

the

as

taken).

points of interaection

frictiion
line

unequal

of

are

to

aa

be

periphery

of each

bowl

4c, with

circle,and

of this

fixing

crank

with

Double
on

1, 2, 3,

generallydriven

shaft

lift

Jacquards require

the

bottom

Jacquard

cranks

the

the

the

is

shed

is

latter

crank

with

cranks

its

are

are

pins
their

on

their

on

top

horizontal, and

are

half-open,but

the

at

rapidly forming

griifes are

-throw

set

loom

the
the

centres,
consequence

when

When

centres.

wheel-

treadle

cam

double

shaft, and

loom

plane

bottom

the

end, and

by

liftingrod.

the

vertical

one

point

divisions

it round

continue

descriptionare

the

from

connected

in

179

compasses.

Cams
work

HARNESS

FIGURING

THE

VII

beating-up

shed

as

the

for

followingpick.

PART

FIGURING

THE

Having
used

the

between
in the

elaborate

determine

to

been

the

board,

lingoe,a mail,
A

lingoe is

punched
to
a

pass

at

one

end

but

is usual.

for

that

of

to

design

It varies
average

It is

cotton

simply

it is

couplings,

coupling includes
lead, flattened

or

lower

in

of

no

linen thread.

wire,

the

forms

existed,justas

thread.

round

allow

it

It consists

loops of

two

piece

through.

pound,

pound

made

be

must

that this harness

his birth.

mounting

and

have

fabrics,we

manner.

before

and

in

harness, to develop

part of Jacquard'sinvention, and

comber

selectingapparatus

connections

alreadymentioned

to-day, centuries

the

figuredeffects
the

and

economical

most

It has

how

Jacquard

HARNESS

dealt with

extent

some

produce

to

now

to

VII

loop

from

weight

coupling

to

to

of

^
of

weight hanging

at

goods
dead

of the

and

gV

i8o

MECHANISM

the

end

The

lower

each

of

enough

loop

coupling

lingoes amongst
8" is

the

Jacquard

warp

forming

made

are

from

have

contain

two

three

hooks
the

tension.
be

must

shed

long

carrying

; from

6" to

latter

6" to

comber

board

the

kinds

is to be

board

is

16"

nection
con-

below

or

general,

are

the

separate, and

particulardent
has

to

the

in

reed

there

but

pass,

hold

are

"

be

to

are

as

the

as

above

to

threads

thread

its warp

f" to \\' thick, and

holes

larger

coupling twine,

made

12^"

(a) Solid wood, long enough

from

receive

length according

harness

exactly opposite

three

end, and

they

usually a perforated piece of wood,

is

keep

which

rule

as

9".

each

through

each

former

the

but

for warp.

thread

In

glass. Some

steel,or

holes

in

loop varies

to

of suflScient

drilled

optionalin

reach

to

in

one

but

some,

width

essential

take

to

The

row.

the

across

use

loom,

as

of

in certain

many
a

solid

classes

of

fabrics.

double

(") Boards

composed

3" long, and

most

adjustment,

before

afterwards,

when

them
be made

alteration

out
to

does

slips
For

and

up,

by pushing

suit
not

plugs
a

coarser

as

work

they
also

the

to

they

and

necessitate

movement

possess
of

slight extent

slips apart

wider

are

capable

are

strips of wood,

or

from

grooved frame,

general

makes,

tying

with

"^-^'
thick, and

to

together in

use.

other

over

'^'

of

all held

extensive

advantages

can

bottom

near

outer

employed

in

in

to lift without

warp,

one

is reserved

board.

mail

for

eyes

Both

mounting

the comber
in the

five

one

upper
with

\" to

twine

mail, and

brass, copper,

holes, a small

the middle
An

of

to

in the centre.

and

paut

common.

Mails

one

the

keep

to

VJNG

lingoe and

connects

pennit

to

WE

OF

and
a

ing
hold-

harness

reed, provided
of

more

the

than

i82

MECHANISM

back
as

in

front

threads
If

rule

drill

to

board

is

as

reed

Jacquard

and

best

if the

and

the

inch

per

bolted

the

to

threads

pass

through

by preventing
parallelwith,
slay cap

and

when

which

vary

work

it has

different

deep

the

If

regular
place.

every
in

inch,

per

l',

on

left at

needles

straight

first

at

rows

holes

but

mails

of

rows

25

or

rows

4'-6" from

of

purpose,

the

depend
From

making lightand

9"

through

holes

in

when

mounting

board

low

edge
are

to
a

from

gives

about

be

\' behind

the

their

on

connect

smaller
looms

Narrow
mail

to

bottom

yam

is

structure

of

3/60^ to 15/30^ is

should
of

to

have

hook,

to

the

found
In

heavy fabrics.

degree

of

loops

severity of the

the

great difference, principallydue

in

centres.

Linen
and

thickness
upon

back

upper

Jacquard.

ness
steadi-

must

It

swinging.)

cranks

is used

perform.

also

Jacquard.

from

be

them

(A

position upon

; it should

16'' above

its front

greatly,and
to

horizontal

framing

holes.

cords

tail

looms

is also

the

driving

this

for

employed

to

thread

mounting

couplings with

least

full

couplings pass

have

the

in

loom

12"

the

be

reed, and

100

is fixed

board, and from

loom,

in

have

when

there

should

Thus,

be

zigzag with

comber

of

will

each

inch, and

per

harness

rows,

preference in

mails

10

forms

board

12" above

the

the

row,

be

must

reed.

the

threads

80

inch

lineal

1'' of

in

has

should

comber

brackets
to

mail, it

3".

on

in

row

threads

12, the board

of 12

threads

board

for

each

used, surplus holes

is

intervals,but
100

on

contains

second

finer board

holes

needles

crosses

stickingof

and

chafing

passed through

are

assuming

the

shuttle

the

falL

many

there

as

With

rise and

thread

one

from

part

where

high

as

; also

row

they

as

lifted

being

not

row

WEAVISG

OF

on

length

width

of

position
a

but

harness
9"

to

of
at

12"

FIGURING

THE

VII

longer is
160"

of

and

6" to

and

the

comber

they

but

times

stands

machine

is then

when
is

height.
the

of

case

fabric

are

or

light is

loom

the

when

tion
vibra-

standing
that

to

of

timbers

roof

the
on

than

vibrate

vertical

of

with

adjustment,

brought

their

to

true

holes

which

insertingsetting screws

the

is

and
straight,

wheels,

most

cards

for

but

are

in

Local

position

there

be

in

abut

some

be

or

warp

minimum

of
than

shorter

lightis

cases

fall

twisted, and

over

liable to fall into either

circumstances,
of

is

may

If cards

wanted.
must

not

fall

to

longerand

Again, cards

harness

increased.

determine

The

and

loom,

the

be

may

it will last

type.

driving strap
where

capable

mails

is fixed

harness

the

other

be

feet,and

friction ; hence
any

the

from

and

necessary.

is added

one

iron

ones,

cross

Whereas,

of

all longitudinal
pillars,

the

from

roof

upon

usuallyaccomplished by tapping

machine

the

solid bed.

against a
If

one

girders.

should

is

supported

to
greater liability

the shed

from

where

them

suspended

error

This

machine

of

side

top framing of

together by

upon

loom, the vibration

Jacquard

in

so

with

minimum.

speciallyconstructed
A

cast

entirelyfree
to

there

gantry

when

bound

bolted

is reduced

Even

best

shoes

in

rest

machine

other.

be

can

straight,in

the

suspended

they are

girders being

harness

of

direction, because

are

placed on

they invariablywork

upon

space

sides

long

short

one

threads

sometimes

are

at other

girders that

the

face in

mounting

the

a
parallel,

when

reed

twisted.

are

Jacquapds
loom,

than

with

If

are

of the other

all

former

latter

board

183

loom

more.

or

shorter

12"

long side

the

in

preferred,whilst

requires 9''0"

Jacquard
from

be

to

HARNESS

over

end

one

friction

however,

machine, such

reduced

as

and

wear

help
space

of

to

for

i84

MECHANISM

cards, light for

the

tackle.

and

with

These
the

on

Before
machine

other

many

tie

beginning to

or

used,

the centre

the

will be

are

above

warped

and

board

g, to be

horizontal

upon

b, back
order
threads

pin

again

over

is continued

openings

from

in

wires

wooden

or

from

The

that

it is taken
and

enable

They

are

pegs.

of

above

double

iron

rail

is free
and

sufficient

cord

c,

d,

is
hold

to

to

be

then

cut

in

Assuming

better

(Fig.99),

long slot,
a

proper

is drawn

from

turn, and

under

e, and

number

of

pushed

through

that

six

this

mounting

their

away

e, tied

tied

d^ c, round

to

all in

4",

give

to

drawn
at

3'' to

driven, or

are

twine

over

required

tying,say

c, dy forward

under

them

and

the

to

pin 6, to

fast.

bobbin

until

the

warped

stout

away

by pins

entanglement.
removed

them

tied

board,

adjustableby insertingit

obtained.

made

places, and

into

warping

are

between

harness, three

the

for waste

it is made

e, whence

below

first

four

enough

length of thread,
a

close

as

board.

are

in which

far

when

of space

building

tied

allowance

an

last one,

them

namely, single thread

the

four pins bolted

still,
the

centre.

Harness

of

"

threads

length,with

hook

centre

-board

set

machine

one

the

to

comber

centre

ways

described

Mounting

upon

dealt

be

position

exact

necessary,

the

board, single thread

thread

lifting

of board.

several

are

the

over

Building

which

the

only

can

If

line tied

plummet

machines

more

There

things

for

determined.

be

must

with
together as possible,
over

part

harness, the

hang immediately

If two

VING

head-room

and

weaver,

is to occupy

should

WEA

spot.

is to be

only

OF

the

proper
without

together,and
repeats of

FIGURING

THE

VII

straightpattern
three

of the

cord

neck

in the

from

IT'

hooks.

of

in

separated

machine

the

fallingthreads

into

hooking

hence

it is usual

to tie

below

the

of connection

knots
line

point
tied

are

in the

followingmanner,

the harness

across

Two

"

pins

driven

are

3|"

4"

to

All such

fall in

to

work;

at

cords.

neck

with

of

chance

from

bunch

each

on

widely

be

when

rising ones

knot

be

will

board, there

comber

will

threads

these

as

the

below

necks

double

in

12"

to

single

8" to 9" in

from

point

to each

hooked

or

fabric,

of

width

the

up

be tied

must

at

But

make

to

threads

doubled

necks, and
bottom

needed

are

185

HARNESS

straight

into

piece

CD

DC

X.

IT
Fio.

of

wood

threads

1"

that

form

are

slipped

threads

Mounting

machine, which
or

after, as
Two

are

may

seem

knots

from
then

be

before

of

which

one

is

are

they

shown

vary

support them

until

from

2"

dimensioned

passed through
they

be
it is

of

centre

been
and

the

knot.

they

made,

pulled tight

connected

to

the

put into position,

desirable.

most

building rods long enough

employed

the

pin
to

all

upon

passed through

have

the

ready

done

looselytied

is

through
of

one

is

pin

one

other

are

may

knot

number

by

one

set,

the

convenient

apart,

one

and

looped ends,
After

4"

to

99.

all bottom
are

tied

reach

to

6"

to

in

across

in

the

depth,

Fig. 100.

The

loom

sections
lower

loops of couplings h
up,

and

the upper

rod

to
c

i86

MECHANISM

through

goes

all

OF

WEA

top loops A.

Kod

of

edge

mailB

/, when

below

be

depth

of

the

supported

secured
levelled

edges,
holes

and

them.

to

let

is

loops

board.

and
the

or

surplus

drawn

across

proceeded

next

in

of

its

upon

are

drawing

couplings
holes

This

the

by

building,

quard
is fixed

there

is

off into

lines

successive

followed

being

height, and

consists

upper

comber

machine

lead

which

through

After

is marked

FilHng

with,

two

spirit-level,the

if

or

adjusting

proper

pencil

are

ends,

lower

their

by

patterns

half

rods

having

end.

board

; such

formed

loom

frame

with

comber

of

the

each

at

be

Both

two

at

screws

2"

round

rest

to

the

ets
adjustable brack-

on

and

upper

the

shed

wooden

tions
posi-

approximately

upon

bolted

by

back

mculs.

to

IJ" to

stretched

and

that

level with

cord

beam

above

on

its

up

working

line,or from

should

the

close

their

namely,

board,

height

drawn

in

shed

comber

aueh

at

be

bottom

cord

under

perfectly horizontal, with

lower

the

fixed

and

breast

If

be

must

centre

"

'

part

the

it, will

"

VING

actual

in

is in

the
turn

operation

connecting

Jitc-

couplings.
cards

fall either

over

THE

VII

fabric,all hooks

warp

or

with

couplingsin

cards

fall off at

short

row

of the

one

facing
fall

loom.

over

in

coupling

the

If cards
first

must

front

row

fall

coupling

line

pattern

in

lacing cards
direction.

the

in

its mail

with

first

first

is drawn

one
row

pulled up

tied to the

are

succeeding repeats

is followed

out

the

is

harness

Fig. 101

of the

second

with

of the

all

all knots

twine

of

cord

/, neck

A, a hook

is used

row

left

of holes

row

side,leading

the

on

within

to

right.
inch

an

knot

is

of

the

passed through
c,

proper

of loom, connect

front

the

its

loop ;

tied,and

and

following threads

first

coupling in

the
from

the second

same

and

hooks

the

process

mails

until

complete.

loop ; f/,mounting
;

in

run

the

in

remaining
and

when

for

and
and

shown
and

is

in

lingoe; c,
e, knots

mounting

; ^,

harness

probable

new

knot

bottom

top

bunches
cord

neck

harness

harness

on

on

neck

and

the

on

coupling;

connecting

it is

used

connections

coupling; ", coupling

twine

will

diagonal

any

pattern, and the

foregoingdescriptionare
of

of

side

left

former, still,
by

back

is

of

leading hook
at

the

fall at

thread

side

right

with

right side

the

one

of

coupling

The

holes

hook,

number

the

is

direction

twill

the

if cards

is

This

to

on

of

row

tightagainstrod

leading hook

leading hook

fabric, connect

coupling in

off.

cut

holes

the

fall at

mounting

loose end

that

in number

left side.

connected

compared

left side j and

top, then

hook

if

; but

the first short

be

back

if

coupling knot

loop

board

hooks

the

the

the

reverse

If cards

governs

In

the

of

on

of

over

backwards,

leading hook

and

first connected

are

couplingsin

row

warp,

this will

the

loom

to

back

board, but

row

lengthwise

row

187

Jacquard cylinder,the

of the

one

if cards

hook

long

one

side of

one

HARNESS

board.

number

at

in

first tied

are

When

and

FIGURING

and

cords

will

be

i88

MECHANISM

required to replacean
In

out.

hooked

such

cases

WE

OF

existing one

before

PART

the

first is
and

is unhooked

harness

one

VING

worn

another

on.

Jacquard

hooks

sometimes

are

speciallymade

to

facili-

^ik
^

Fig.

tate

unhooking

i is 17"

bend

long

/,

simply

and

noosed

required.

such

from
\"

harness, as shown

bottom
from

upon

101.

to

bottom

i and

top,
to

6"

in

from

loop

slipped off

Hook

Fig. 101.
bottom
Neck

when

to

cord
not

rack
I is

further

MECHANISM

I90

harnesses

Warped

This
the

partlyto
The
a

is

off in
the

which
of

centre, and

in

the

former.

one

group

to

This

ends

second

together in

of the

mounting

this

remaining
are

selected
which

to

hold

it has

an

couplings in

or

bunch

same

of

eventuallyto

builder

last

coupling

between

take

to

every

pair

of

side

is

teeth

framing, but 4J"

below

holds

all threads

After

elevate

round

comb, and

process

is

in

each

of

pulling
all mails

the

whole

there

tied

knot

viously
pre-

repeated with

longitudinalrow

be tied.

in line

The

equivalent to

twine

to

into

are

beginning

twisted

and
fabric),

centre

proceeds

tightto

The

then

the

teeth

second

placed

driven

straightline.

are

means

wire

the

is

coarsely

from

two

passes

of

of

between

thread

is obtained.

warp

over

the

above

immediately

described

cards

set

close

together. By
all

in the

levellingrod, they

the

bunch

also

thread

off,passed

tooth

He

it off when

warping

and

its teeth

the

thread

thread

fixed

comb

of

tooth.

the

manner

of

tail cords.

to

of

is to govern,

^"

that

so

between

it upon

Mounting

similar

both

twine

finallycuts

reached.
a

attachment

similar

loops,and
of

of

hooks

loops,and
up

is fixed

the

made

are

about

are

which

points

lifts

then

teeth

fast to

the

coupling twine,

is drawn

hook

to

up

Marking

skewer,

end

one

made

long. They

2"

frame
the

with

up, and

These

pitched comb.
wooden

The

coupling loops that

is carried

the end

board.

board

instead

built.

be

large bobbin

facturers.
manu-

appearance,

can

above

; but

loom, suspended from

comber

all

through

they

tying

levellingrods

knotting mounting twine,

opposite the

many

neat

it with
sections, filling

and

the

part

pointsof similarityare

settingup
to

their

to

with

and

taken

VING

great repute with

that

to

The

point.

WE

partly owing

expedition

board

comber

in

are

is similar

system

certain

OF

case

(assuming
a

wire

opposite the tail cord

is
to

THE

VII

On

the

FIGURING

of

completion

HARNESS

separately,pulled tight to
hitched
Two

they

its proper

to

threads

neck

harness

warped

is

In

crowd, but

close

the

The

moment.

and

varnish

Harnesses

for

only. Harnesses
varnished

other

neck

sized

varnished

and

Numerous

in

dressingsare

turpentine,and

the

oil

that

twine

very

comber

board

the

cords

entire

heavy goods
lingoes and

to

and

are

the

is

former

and

consists

of

as

dryers,white
usually rubbed

light goods, but

serviceable

from

such

boiled linseed
dissolved

wax

varnish.

wax

for

smooth

it takes

dressing

white

the

goods

provides a
the

or

heald

threads

harness

heavy

for

employed,
and

paste, bees'-wax

Boiled

the

and

dressing is

throughout

harnesses

neck

little

size

varnished
un-

frequentlysized

are

and

fraying
sometimes

are
a

to

twisted.

couplingsare
oil,flour

from

to

little

it is of

it from

below

goods

cords

length of couplings,whilst

tendency

is necessary

times

and

for medium
the

near

it

prevent

4" above

3" to

been

Harness

light goods

throughout, at
applied for

has

has

coupling knots.

are

fabrics
to

single thread

material

of

as

of

strength

harnesses

coarse

most

of

warping

harness

breaking.

that

length

Dressing

and

loop, the

only visible knots

manufacturing

is

coupling,but

every

to

harness

in medium

off

each

and

evenness,

for

only equal

harness, although double

consumed.

taken

are

cord.

required

are

bunches

ensure

simply passed through

are

In

the

row

191

is

applied

by

for

with

hand

medium
a

week

to

flour

paste

its

chief

and

it leaves

drawback

fortnightto dry.
or

and

brush

dressingfor either,as
pliant ;

into

is

Heavy

bees'-wax, which

is

MECHANISM

192

brushed

thoroughly
of

coat

varnish

smooth

into

is

If
and

by hand,

If

completed.
place, from
unsized.

VING

harness,

the

latter

couplings

part

and

when

should

they

twisted

are

2'' of

their

material

Dressing

strongest

that

thread

the

the

gives
is

best

it

should

takes

be

smoothest,

for

is

dressingis

building

loops

hard

twisted

before

upper

dry

give

be

to

are

separately,immediately

1'' to

pliable,and

WE

the

applied;

surface.

done

OF

all

left
most

classes

of

work.

Shedding

Defective

is defective

Jacquard shedding
lift,because
of

straightline,and

lifted

as

mail

from

hook

96

24

and

From

board.

board

to

slopingthread

has

trianglethat

and

lifts 4".
but

it

can

other

only

This

defect

be

minimised

is

end, by passingglassor
of neck
will

cords

bear

upon

and

the

87*66"=

cards

where

steel rods
in

of

72", and
a

the

hypothe-

between

wide, short
fall oflf at

frame,

machine

the vertical

between
a

50", and

one

3-24",therefore

3*24", whilst

greatest in

knot

right-angled

if

difference
-

is

76", and

The

is 90'9"

fixingthem

board

Now

72 + 4

12''

of comber

centre

altitude

an

87-66".

lifts

between

board, form

50",

90*9".

the

thread

inclined

becomes

^762+502

is

the

of

and

separate ; then

thread

end

wide, 8''0''

board,

to

in the

one

of

base

4", the altitude

hypothenuse
the

thread

at

V72H^^

hypothenuse=

nuse

vertical

vertical

threads, together with

these

lifts

length of

is 100"

begin

are

strated
readilydemon-

comber

to

threads

knot, where

to

72" the

mail

12" from

hook,

to

harness

be

can

instead

threads

centre

This

that

if it is assumed

largecircle

consequence

equality of

to

respect

of

arc

side threads.

higher than

from

the

top shed forms

in

the
so

mounting threads, and

that

one

harness,
the

long
the

prevent

loom
rows

rods

them

FIGURING

THE

VII

from

shed

even

an

this

opening ; by
is

HARNESS

the

means

193

is

angle

obtained, but

at

fixed one,

of

cost

and

increased

friction.
Wide

looms,

heavier

such

the

as

the sides than

lingoesat

often

suggested above,

one

quire
re-

the centre.

at

Tie-ups
No

useful purpose

will be served

each

unless
tie-ups,

contains

Jacquard ties, like

manufacturer
suit his
select

such

of

the

designer to
To

patterns.

contains

104
on

12, 16, 24, 32, and

48

96

the

only 2, 4, 8, 13, 26,

it will be

inferred

specialcases,

to

that

forms

to

effect

ployed,
em:

"

A
are

2, 3, 4, 6, 8,

which

in
preferable,

are

basis

the

that

some

it

In

Fig. 102

containingan

unbroken

is

plan

is

series of
o

all

all but

cards

It

in

Jacquard
given of
holes,but

will

others, and

only departed
in

small

of

fabrics.

and

economy

another, chieflyby using a

designs.

are

Ties

all patterns

generally affirmed
order

from

effects

obtainable, from

are

will

scope

104.

straighttie

produce nearly

greatest

of 96, whilst from

measures

Straight
A

to

divisions

j thus

hooks

taken

Example

results.

full number

52

to

numbers

more

and

96

varied

needles,yet
all

are

them

the

give

this,small

give similar

than

104

be

must

will

as

produce

illustrate

largeones

machine

possibleon

Care

Every

makes

divisions,for by following this rule

to

but
100

his business

hooks

of

endless.

healds, are

understands

number

given

small

for

feature, for

distinctive

some

specialrequirements.

own

number
be

who

those

by giving a varietyof

may

be

from

in

one

to

weave

comber

form

or

large
board

it is divided

by

MECHANISM

194

lines

imaginary
number

of

into

OF

VING

sections, each

four

threads

warp

WE

in

pattern.

PART

equal
Threads

to

the
from

\
\

"

\
\

\
\

\
\

ooooooo"o

number
and

1 hook

those

from

go

through

number

succeeding hooks

1 hole

go

in each

section,

through succeeding

FIGURING

THE

VII

until

holes

last hook

the
of

one

every

will

pattern,

every

marks, beginning
in the

running

be

is

filled,when

in

the

the

row

Diagonal

400.

each

from

last

the

of

part of

same

threads

the

thread

by

direction

same

195

hole

back

shown

as

at

HARNESS

and

section

throughout,indicate

straight

tie.
A

tie may

shown

on

it will be

examined,

peats oftener
to

the

plan point in

the

straightin

be

than

found

effect, and

small

some

Cards

geometrical ornament.
threads

in each

stripes;

narrow

stripes;
There

and

thus

are

threads

to

with

each

to

to

is

width

any

of

possess

because

only 24+96+272

used

to

find

the

from

Fig. 104

the

than

figure
a

exactlycorresponds with
can

be

is

the

straight,but

plan of
from

warp

392

hooks

399

to

to

the

necessarily

must

as

two

Any

threads

two

repeat,

tie ; from

1 it is

from

doubles

last hooks

used,

number
centred

effects

the other.

obtained, but

of threads

twice

536

straighttie permits of,

each, except for the first and

number

stripe.

tie,which

centred

flowing lines

of repeats

number

the

weave

Ties

pattern, but

half

one

to

for the medium

used

producing large

of

by adopting

fewer

three

by moving
used

or

them.

move

method

small card

sating

floral

pattern for the wide

Centred

Another

saved

those

to be

ones

24+96+24+272+24+96

pattern, but

employed

are

thread

one

wide

re^

is intended

ones

all hooks

threads

two

narrow

the

are

pattern, with

yet when
pattern

Fig. 103, which

the
produce longitudinalstripes,

twill,or

of

section

one

in

another, as

diagonallines

direction, and

same

that

all

that

sense

; hence

must

400x2-2

be
=

are

to

ducted
de798.

1 to

400

the tie is

centred, and

in

leasing it

MECHANISM

196

will be necessary
direction

to

to

threads

gather
1 to

WE

OF

threads

400.

Or

399
a

VING

PART

1 in the

to

harness

may

opposite
be leased

straightby centring the tie,as

first

half

is in

back

row

in

Fig. 105,

of the

'

where

board,

and

400
399

of the
of

the

MECHANISM

198

correspond,as

divided

to

has

holes

12

OF

to

VING

Fig. 107,

in

and

row,

WE

of

PART

in which

section

form

them

board

the

a,

CD

1-

IP4

OQ

\
\

\J

)\.

OOOQOOOOOOO

whilst

the

remaining

Jacquard, 400

hooks

may

form
be

h.

section

used

for

one

With

repeat and

600
200

THE

VII

for the
a

maiU

Three

other.

similar

their

be

alternately throughout;
followed
taken

are

and

the

by

first of

before

the third

the

thus

followed

but

h, then

second

with

in

leasing must

bring

all

in

the

Fig.

by

Fig.

in

the

the

106

of

first

and

fourth

first

first of h and

the

107

second

of 6, the

dealt

be

can

the

case

places ;

must

199

scctiooB

every

proper

in section

HARNESS

four

or

In

manner.

in

thread

FIGURING

third

and

fifth

la

of

of

a,

of 6, etc.

ties

Compound
considered
for

3-

to

with

they

c,

108

is

d, which

solid

comber

rather

for

straightones,
are

speciallybuilt

plan

control

save

are

of

to

be

",

cards
for

/, each

of

one

to

the extent
double

together

warp,

contain

of

cost

and

half

of from

plain

in the
4 shafts
two

the

signing
de-

ties,as

compound

weaving

stitched

the

mounting, consistingof

all threads

boards

Other

be

cannot

arrangements

as

reducing

classes of fabrics.

twill fabrics, which

Fig.

foregoing description

convenience, and

in many

compared

the

card-savers, but

as

adopted

of

or

loom.
a,

6,

separate

remaining

MECHANISM

200

Lines

only belong

to

warp.

drawn

through.
for

building

The

devoted

pages

the

from

first

is too

large to

through

pass

above

the

way

of

power

in

tied
knot
aflFect

not

lift

to

the

board.

Jacquard

placed.

knot

this does

hole, but

show

are

building,in having

harness

to

described

system

any

hooks

of

is

Jacquard tie,

numbers

row

thread

each

the

of

plan

and

intersecting

at

that

eye

coupling immediately

every

any

the

to

differs
to

upon

in

is

109

PART

Marks

fabric.

machine, and

400

attached

mails

where

Fig.

VING

threads, of these

warp

position of

the

denote

are

back

the

points

arranged

to

WE

OF

couplings.

8
e
4-

3
\
Fia.

boards

Shafts

and

of the

machine.

will be

of

the

raised with

some

weft

face

are

of thick

to* the

the

; a, h then

Jacquard

in the

fabric,for

before

still

back

It will
into

be

all
griflfe,

odd

sink, and

as

threads

pick 5

to

bulk

give
a,

5, c, d

is lifted with

fabric

that
and

and

across,

shafts

picks of
only

one

a,

weft

card

of

pick

movement

and

the

the

face warp

of face ; 3 and

shafts

is driven

of

rise without

pick

padding

lift with

for the first

but
remaining stationary,

noticed
the

c, d

(Fig.108)

of back

of which

both

board

again comber

a, h

threads

used

by tappets independently

if shafts

for number

weft

machine

drop

all actuated

are

Thus,

first movement

109.

are

picks

weight
lifted,

grifFemust

before

it rises

", c, d.
have

been

employed;

serted
in5

followingpicks will
number

before

driven

be

card

for back

that

is

all

and

^,

pick 10, board /

back

even

knots

stitches

both

for

in

bulge

in others.

that

fabrics

permits of
is about

holes form

a
so

the
the

face

contains

16

the

to

are

warp

16

in

attached
is drawn

heel
to

all

rack.

the

the face

rest

to

double

This

other.
both

pieces

Each

board

IJ" deep

if four

couplingsmust
the

upon

described

on

threads

from

that

other

of hooks

rows

loops of

connected
hooks

the

over

warp

applicationof

binds

X' to

mounting

from

Jacquard

weave

the

through

from

will

knots

Jacquard

cylinder are

couplings

the top

be

boards, and

straightline.

one

loom, and

; those

boards
all

in

compound

The
over

the

that

the mails

hold

; and

row

to

change places.

and

wide

holes,

remaining

The

the

figure and

the colours

(Fig.110)
knotted

of

on

Tie

figured by
fabric

form

any

together wherever

the

figureupon

employed

are

are

by passing one

on

weft,

threads

the

of

Cloth

Plain

boards

solid comber

system

/,

placesand allowing it

in

down

Equal

Double

colour, and

boards

g,

and

warp

through

pass

doing produces

so

through pullingit

equal plain

the

manner

3, except

/, all odd

on

to

back

face, 4 for padding.

fabric

Four

number

together by carrying back

fabrics

picks,and

face

are

similar

Ijiftingboards

cloth with

unable

lifted with
used

are

in

lifts.

threads

being

couplings are
picks,4

home

201

replaced by

picks 5, 10, produce plain

because

HARNESS

FIGURING

THE

VII

to

Fig.
mails

on

400

to

all hooks

that

needle

how

govern

machine

needle

points,

these

straighttie.

boards

pair of

one

spring box

8 face

shows

Ill

couplings for

through

the

A
1

rows

fixed

couplingsin

face

pair.

is

p. 163

hooks

If white

1, 2, by lifting1

OF

MECHANISM

202

all odd

threads; boards
threads

of

other

the

all

two

blue, the other

VING

rise,and

PART

2 lifts all

board

colour,

perfectplain fabrics

can

all white

1 to

if boards

"

even
even

without

Hence

blue.

say

and

odd

respectivelymove

3, 4

using a Jacquard
one

will

of white

threads

WE

be
4

woven
are

"

lifted

10

Fia.

All

correctly.
white

weft

white

warp

Cards
reduce

same

over

them

card

Jacquard
blue

where

are

griffeand

blue

on

white

the

extent

of from

first card

faces

the
as

white

the needles

weft

back

is

is

surface,and

required.
J

to

the

picked

whilst

above

warp

the upper

where

by J,

presses

is to lift blue

does

weft

to

1 lift

110.

is to show

saved

board

10

12

thus,

to

needles, blue
across.

white

The

griffeand

FIGURING

THE

VII

board

form

shed

positionand

into

and
griflfe

their

to

fall in rotation

descends, the white

for

order

blue
of

liftingis

and

blue

blue

for two

white

wefts.
the

white

If cards

cylinder

picks,the

boards

3, 4

replaces card

2, then

grifferises,boards

lifts and

Card

is turned

board

ordinary number,

one

picks.

Card

griffeand

picks, the

203

weft.

4 rise for white

stationary for
rise and

blue

first blue

board

reduced

are

for

HARNESS

1,

blue

griffe

operated

are

1, and

is

the

same

followed.

i"M^

"9U"

Fio.

Split

A
use

for

weaving
the

12'' above
are

drawn

the

mails

at

a.

rounded

couplings in

knots.

As

and

one

board

comber

Harness

fine

stripof

wood

consequence,

of

extensive

reed, from

or

the

the

small

fixed

about

top loops 16" long

8" above

previouslyknotted

are

metal, J, \' thick by \\'

edges, is pushed
row

in

(Fig. 112)

couplings with
all

is

"Bannister"

patterns in

it,but

into

deep, with
all

warp,

the

as

wide

It has

Jacquard.

Scale

Double

or

known

harness

111.

board
number

between

and

the

loops of

just below

of shafts

the

employed

MECHANISM

204

corresponds with

the

number

from

in

part

one

row

of the

Fia.

viz.

VING

of holes

board,

WE

OF

to

24.

112.

Two,

three,

or

even

four

MECHANISM

2o6

neck

two

cords

contiguous
below

to

the hooks

of hooks

in the

of

short

work

5"
; the

least

the

apart,

then

crowded

through

fixed

2" to

cord

neck

are

them

of holes

for

row

one

at

reception

of the way

out

they

harness, and

parts of the

3"

is knotted

for the

provide eyes

to

latter

board

rows

Each

Jacquard.

shafts

in

two

part

passing

bottom

; it contains

points,about

two

in

VJNG

hook, and

every

of holes

rows

WE

OF

give

results.
satisfactory
Another
in the
a

half

of

harness.

Two

but

double

lift

neck

cords

in the

with

holes

all

in

cut

for all hooks

woven,

on

on

threads

from

1 to

799

in every

threads

from

2 to

800.

Any

of

threads

set

one

grounds
lift

in which

fabric face

that

down, and

pressure
but

upon

the

both
same

harness
to

lift double

presented to needles,
alternate

be

can

also

all

even

which

obtained;

only
all

and

required to

are

be

weft

float

made

by weaving

up'

it face

by weaving

Harness

requires Jacquard and

healds

independently,and yet

be moved

threads.

possible.
float must

warp

be

couplings,

card

figurein

of

will

will lift all odd

repeat, and

float

if the

separate couplings

to

are

kind

Pressure

double

adjoining threads

two

simultaneouslyare

It is obvious
a

is to

no

numbers;

machine

400

takes

one

"

admirably

griffemove

one

efiect

ordinary

an

possibleplaces,plain cloth

the first card

therefore

if cards

; then

manner

tied

use

even

purpose

disconnected, and

are

usual

the

answers

with

all

other

singlecylinder,or

cylinder machine

common

often used

are

couplings,the

in

It is built to

compared

as

separate machines

all odd-numbered

been

years.

many

cards

the

has

harness

industry for

cotton

saving

scale

double

figuring

harness

bined,
com-

to

may

act

be

THE

VII

FIGURING

HARNESS

straight,centred, combined,
be

must

As

work.

common

shaft and

mail, but

two

Heald

large

eyes

cloth

as

from

clasped healds
is drawn
has

than

are

above

passed in
When

J" to

3"

used

; in

all

which

order

down

to

weave

thread

one

Jacquard, and
left down
is

for

ground,

it

If the

600x4
harness
cards

warp

saving
picks
=

to

2400

would
to

600

altogether 4x4

16

in

figure.

this

of

many

be

must

healds,

pick

sinking shaft pulls

lifted

by

of each

great;

very

threads

to

that

by
and

as

mail

on

single

therefore

picks, or

to

repeats

moved

cards

shafts

throughout

is

card

the

repeat

these

formed

machines,

600

as

which

rise for every

pattern

number

place

of

thread

the

from

harness

with

This

times

Jacquard

fallingof

for

gives

number

divided, and drawn

thread

one

will be

require four
pick,

lifts

by

near

with

Warp

repeat of satin

machine

threads.

satin

satin

card

is

one

risingand

weft

effected

and

twill.

each

risingshaft

another.

obstruction

or

and

example,

and

by

satin

from

suitablyarranged
The

for

as

the healds.

sink

must

the

event, every

level the

are

without

shaft

one

double

mails

through

shafts

eyed

mails

either furnished

under

each

the threads

suspended

latter

through the

groups

with

are

are

the

through

twisting.

number

deep, or

claspand

one

capableof lifting
warp
in

from

for

back

needed, decked

are

possible,and

singlyin straightorder

after

two

than

it

10" for linen

drawn

are

shafts,correspondingin

fell of

cloth

for cotton, and

prevent the threads

to

type, but

is left between

space

five threads

more

fell of

repeat of the ground pattern,

one

the

of T

other

any

the

rule, a

to

where

be used

must

from

board

comber

from

warps;

in

farther

placed

of

or

20J

pressure

harness.

The

smallest

possible sheds

and

shuttles

are

employed

zoS

MECHANISM

OF

nevertheless, it puts
other
fabrics
that

by

than

has

the

been

it have

of outline

are

dobbies.

Besshrook,

When

upon

or

any

part

warp

adapted
other

replace it.

All

appearance,

but,

for

the

on

fine

very

twilling

machine

figuresproduced

and

lack

fineness

detail.
moved

by

the

suspended by tying
it under

to

VING

better

jagged

somewhat

and

Healds

and

introduced

Btrain

great

it ia firmer

hand,

WEA

one

Jacquard, by tappets,

the

former
neck

grooved pulley

is
cord

employed,
to

two

each

hooks

(Fig. 113), from

and
shaft

by
is

and

passing

which

cords

THE

VH

down

go

to

an

would

puts

fabrics,in which
3, 4,

5 to

or

by tappets

exceeds

If healds

of

picks,and

harness

position;
leave

is

warp

down

; the

second

and

the

down.

third

But

production

weft

in the

of

this

unequal

proportionsof 2,

in

similar

remain

can

shafts may

three

hook

one

the

manner

lifted for

pick by pick to

move

present treatise

the

is made

purpose,

in which

partly,or

all classes of
but

any

some

healds,

reed,

extensive

most

named

possess

order

of

twistingthread

use

or

better

than

for all round

be

at

those

cause
cross

The

open
one

shed, whilst
thread

heald

to twist

are

and

half round

every

twist,such

the

are

two

in

last

fabrics where

limited.

employed throughout,ordinary ones

straightor

In

Every
If healds

points.

two

for this

former

work, but

twisting is

moved

the

The

advantages for weaving

must

threads.

others.

frames.

threads

available

are

to

in order

other

requiredto give

liftingand

amiss

portion of the warp

wholly, round

needle

be

be done

to

shedding motions
answer

the limits of

not

may

of the work

nature

specialappliancesare

case

the

twist

to

Nearly

as

fabrics

outside

are

nevertheless,it

brieflydescribe the

produce

Weaving

fabric structure

Designing and

the

Jacquard

Gauze

are

; c, when

moved

are

dobbies, the

or

placed in

the satin.

weave

to

by

would

itself to

warp

1.

number

any

harness

only lends

system

lifted

be

the

be

can

down

are

into its out-of-action

that

lifts warp

shaft

209

lifted ; the first holds

are

otherwise

shaft

hooks

both
both

lifted ; d^ when

HARNESS

shaft.

upper

when
positions: ft,

that

FIGURING

used

half

to

heald

lift a
bined
com-

another

and

form

116)

show

how

shed.

accompanying Figs.(114, 115,

this effect is

produced. Fig. 114

p

is

and

draft and

tie-upfor

MECHANISM

210

fflmplegauze
threads

two

the

thick, short

through

pass

heald

lines

1, 2

even

threads, the

two

are

and

115

which

into
twine
been

half

and

over

drawn

all odd

heald

into

shafts

is

the

reed.

former

better

When

s.

in
shaft

warp
odd

1, 2, alternately,every

are

seen

looped by passing
of

eyes

; s, (f

ordinary heald

been

all

containing

are

an

that

Horizontal

of warp

both

d has

through

top indicate

threads

doup

Standard

116.

the

; the

part

the

at

of the

dent

shafts

and

VING

lines

one

latter

respectively standard
Figs.

WEA

OF

the
has

thread

CO
Fio.

is crossed

loop

under

of

half

of the

Dots

as

threads
the

shafts

is

s, also

thread

one

an

in

all threads

on

are

lifted

that

threads

are

never

lifted

Fig.

another

the

obtained

(Fig. 115);

shown

round

shed

open

binds

they

passed through

{Fig, 114) represent

pick

although
evident

o, t

for every

twist

and

one,

in elevation

clearlyseen

Twisting

even

lines

by raising d,

made

next

heald.

vertical

on

lifting the

A, 2,

the

111.

is

by lifting
a

116.

and

for

above
cross

shed

cross

liftingthe

distinguishing featiu-es
shaft

order

iirmly into
weft.
shed

will

of

same

gauze

the

fabric,

It

is

be

strained

quite

THE

than

more

added

to

Trhen
reduce

FIGURING

lifted
the

for

an

in

over

to

fixed

When

slacken
bar

two

adopted

This

over

twisting

bar
and

is

something

usually provided

is

warp,

unless

one,

open

tension.

by passing crossing threads

moves

HARNESS

(Fig. 115),

stationary

for

that

threads

h.

ends
which

cross

two,

or

dispenses with

more,
a

method

standard

and

is

times
some-

renders

MECHANISM

ai2

the

unnecesBary
half

laths

at

bead

e, and

bead

e.

J, then

or

the

top

Threads

the

right

in

them

Coarse

aa

open

application of
driven

are

enough
Shaft

to

drawn

Tie

is

thread

of warp
80

fabrics
two

that

with

is connected

2, 3, and

dent

one

the

causes

2, 3, and
the

an

of

the

reed.

pull

to

above, and

on

eye

them

pull

to

glass

through

bead

d acts

their

by

singly through

5, 6 show

to

7, 8 show

can

shafts
the

be

order, with

1,

twisting

a, b

(Fig. 118), into

eye

the

placed below,

all warp

each

shaft

warp

with

through
forms

one

eyes

each.

with

by

which

be

close

in the

reed.

eyes

d uppermost,
When

line, the eyes

the

needles

must

dent

opposite every

above

is drawn

in

healds

without

woven

needles

an

placed

; 6 is

crossing threads.

employed

are

into

put

are

for

before.

present

bottom

loom

are

part

underneath

2, 3 working in plain cloth

round

c, d

left of

of 2, 3.

shaft

each

rotation,

12

threads

4 pass

all four

1, 4 to the

threads

from

1,
2,

back

loop

WEAVING

(Fig. 117)

c, A

threads

lifting c,

By

of

use

healiJa

Two

OF

fixed

at

the

and

in the

of shaft

placed
with

all

between

an

eye

ordinary
the

near

top for

ordinary heald, or through

then

taken

Fig.

straight and
finally,
the

dents
When

all
is

harness
the

of

an

straightwarp

opposite side

takes

up

all

threads.

or

of

through

to

eyes

pass
in

an

the

reed, and

gauze

119.

go

in

pairs between

reed.
is above

the

pulled sideways

of the

thread

provided

Jacquard harness, and

crossing threads

ordinary

pushed

in

is

dent

half

drawn

are

full dents

between

tART

crossing

mails

VING

; the

ones

through, but straightthreads

are

WE

OF

MECHANISM

214

half

crossing threads

dents, the
on

the

half
to

dents, the back

carry

reed

right or

its warp

then

to

rises and

left of stationary

THE

VII

FIGURING

HARNESS

Gauze

Special harnesses
and

bottom

top doups

ordinary harness
front
that
rise

of

it,and

hooks

from

the

be

may

Jacquard,

Fia.

convenient

method

of

part
is

lever a, to which
a

is fulcrumed

of

movement

threads.

In

treadle,and
is

to

cord

Fig.
c

its

at

carries
the

120

is below

under

any

illustration

120.

fellow, and

goes

shows

rod

An

down'

to

cord

to

bottom

also drawn

elevate

doup,

Upward

the

tappet

easing

c.

with

two

figuring mail, is
through

passes

slackens

and

Jacquard

straightthreads, hence

the

for

down

each

of

Fig. 119

carried to the

dent, after passing through

its

tappet fitted upon

extremity

cord

accomplished by pullingthe
Every crossingthread

in

spare

easer

an

support all crossingthreads:

the

rod

and

is tied and

5, and

standard

by

An

Figs. 119
cord

at

the loom

across

in

given

and

120.

loom.

the

in

easing bar

an

doup

an

placed

are

over

given to

by

or

with

woven

shafts

pass

them, whenever

Movement

be

standard

and

fabrics with

gauze

can

crossingthreads

if

together.

weave

; still gauze

doup

slacken

to

moves

if

Harnesses

built to

are

215

ends
taken

separate loop

2i6

MECHANISM

OF

in

the

doup, then,

for

go

up

together to

lift half

At

the

to

form

time

same

figure, because

threads
for the

where

On

intervening picks, lift

threads

crossing threads
wanted,

only

and

for

odd

and

odd

douping

can

nothing
odd

half

the

lifted

are

both

down,

are

the

by

is

there

but

even

no

to

doup

threads.
hooks

by
and

even

take

place,
round

cross

ones

crossed.

are

heald, together with

where

figuring harness
form

together to

even

and

all odd

say

threads

dent,

that

simple reason

warp,

wherever

lifted in any

are

the

even

part

picks,standard

alternate

some

VING

WEA

is

gauze

figure,or

even

plain clotL

harness

of this kind

fabrics ; but it is limited

be inserted

into

shed

used

be

can

in the
in the

to

weave

that

sense

only one

portion,if

gauze

gauze

many

pick can
other

at any

part plain cloth is used.

Bottom

If two
any

or

These

If cards

fall

the reed

has

the

two,

over

sixth

douping, or,

33

rows

hooks

for

cards

fallingover

doups

eight middle
=

In

50x2

rows

100,

building an

and
=

400

warp

take

for

-f 100
the

figure,and
50 X 8

easing

loom

harness

400

is

neck

ing
cross-

and
figuring,
the

from

600.

two

machine,

parts, and

six

figure,and

two

three

dent, two

into

4 hooks

required.
are

600

each

for

in

boards.

from

divided

and

rows

100+

and

through

4 hooks

for

harness

generallythere

four-sixths

for easers,
8

combined

are

separate comber

be

must

used

easers,

ways

threads

hooks

shed

gauze

side of

one

one-sixth
for

three

four

Harness

specialgauze

in various

sections,and

distinct

and

plain cloth

built

are

picks in

more

with

way

Doup

front

In

event

rows

100-f 400+100
cords

and

of

for easers,

rows

back

for

back

rows

the

one-

are

for

doups
=

600.

attached

THE

VII

alternately

to

FIGURING

levers

in

4^"

above

lines

two

Fio,

"

approximately

HARNESS

a,

zif

{Fig. 121),

one

121.

the

other

and

mounting

2i8

MECHANISM

threads

from

the

OF

levers

mails

the

figuring harness, by
Instead

of

employ

which

traverse

than

of

the

1"

Metal

mails

and

cut, and

down, viz. from

of the 100

in each

threads

each
the

bridge,touch
bolted

rule,they

The

and

receive

harness

of

and

this

new

the

on

section

doup
to

fall down

doups

is necessary

are

to

at

twine
the

is

At

rods

required

that

them

d,

of lateral

in

12"

/a

J"

at

threads
lower

doup

other

group
slacken

the
are

adjustment.

fine

enough

Between

doup

than

those

twine
a

to

loom.

of
be

is

mail

/, and
drawn

singleeye

i is

this,however, is

it ;

the

through

U"

to

The

breaks, as
On

of the

cross.

times

warp

mails.

the

any

e, called

of from

space

for

pass

pull

to

advance

separately.

when

weaver

the

build

or

separatelyto

pushed through

of

out

one,

all

contain

they

apart.

when

eyes

h.

preferable,

are

ordinary plan,but

about

two

shown

4"

cards.

of

straightthreads,and

permit

of warp

are

Any

stout

is about

figuring harness

contain

troublesome
to

3" to

minimis!
the strain

through, as

apt

from

thread

every

sometimes

used

is built

g and

left to
eyes

are

Two

that

set

one

heavy enough

lifted

side of all

figuringharness

former
to

under

slotted brackets

on

controls.

be

be

can

by

cost

glassones

lb.

4 to 10 per

repeat,

shorter

easing threads.

the

smoother

are

has

ensuring certainty in lifting

still

used,

the

; but

easing hooks

slightlyreducing

often

not

and

of

purpose

machine

controls

merely

crossingthreads, and lingoesmust

As

an

on

above, Devoge "

adjustment,

doup

move

the

are

do

they

the

c,

of

those

but

J",

to

single lift

of

and
first,

also

together

them

than

plane

described

capable

the

needles, for

as

from

arrangement

is

makers

both

lower

griffesfor

two

second,

These

in

are

couplings

to

IJ".

average

Co.

which

part

connected

are

the

of

WEAVING

two

doups

other
mail

are

hand,

if

eyes,

it

Doup slipsare

all

THE

vn

made

fast

to

FIGURING

heald

shaft j, which

for every

pick by making

pullingit

down

the

or

it fast
it

by springs;

doups rapidly wear

prevented by

extent

opposite ends
board, and

of the

is raised

griffeand

requirescareful adjustment,
is to

Wearing

out.

the

lowered

and

the machine

to

doup shaft, and

mails.

doup

219

springs

also
from

mails

Doup

upon

the

to

comber
leashes

pulling
from

vary

large

cords

fastening regulating

prevent

so

tight upon
to

HARNESS

16

24

to

the lb.
After

mails

they

is

crossing warp

c, and

all threads

separated,and

are

passed

the

to

dent.

then

drawn

It will

into

through easing

drawn

be

under

first

are

that

number

doup

reed

crossing threads

doup

of

pair

crossed,go through the

easing, figuring,and

122),whilst straightthreads

the

through

noticed

/,

pairof crossingthreads

left,but

loop,and finally,
straightand
4 in

double

singlythrough figuringharness
the first

right or

straight threads,

drawn

are

mountings (Fig.

only go through

one

in the

eye

figuringportion.
To

figure lift half heald

weave

in the middle

easing

mails

harness, as
that

slacken

corresponding doup

mails

sheds, as

open

threads
With

in middle

such

limit to which
be

of

one,

and

altered
of

six
at

kinds

variations

Picks

crossing six.
be

floats in the
of

be

can

pleasure. Any

doups, can

weft

it is next

lift those

gauze

required to

half

^, and

sheds

weave

threads

heald

brought

j for

to

impossibleto

carried

in

use

figure pattern

at
can

cross
ing
cross-

11.

at

; the

one

singledoup,

into

cross,

lift half heald 7, and

harness/, as

harness

the

To

crossingsmay

any
be

gauze
or

the

reach

irregulardescription,
including one

most

For

10.

at

9.

at

figuringthreads

j and

crossing

shed

any

time.
combined

ground working, provided plain cloth

be

can

assortment

Warp
with

and
all

surroimds

MECHANISM

220

the

for it is essential

gauze,

opened
It

before

out

has

been

shedding
shed

not

elsewhere

so

WE

that

VJNG

PART

shall

warp

be

thoronghly

figuringis attempted.

motions

^are

"

OF

"

that

those

namely,

well

that

mentioned

adapted

for

double-acting

give

semi

weaving

gauze

as

-open

closed

c
c

"/
Fia.

shedding
be

can

standing
twist

It

round
would

be

of double

half-way,

to

is

enable

lift machine

applied

for

lifting

crossing threads

to

them.
appear

another

sinking shaft

must

type

mechanism

if suitable

threads

immediately
a

Still any

motions.

used

122.

would

remembered

that,

as

one

shaft

begins to fall,slack
be

taken

that

both

up

by
shafts

begins

warp

rise

given off by

risingone
are

to

level

; but

it

midway

MECHANISM

OF

doupe

are

work

as

for shaft
A

top doup
that

except

extensively used
well

as

harness

the

VING

Doups

Top

Top

WEA

half

with

the

industry

cotton

Jacquards.

is similar

heald

in

to

shaft

for

one

is

bottom

uppermost,

doups,

that

doup

^2345678

a,
^i^

lingoes
are

above,

shaft
at

are

is

other

former

somewhat
instead

heavier, and
of

sometimes
times

lines

case

are

in

the

"

to

suspended
1

that

crossing

below, straight ones.

screwed

it is

represent threads
which

to

8, in

the

first

row

of

doup

from

the

Fig. 124,

passing through

The

machine.

mails, the

holes

in

half

comber

are

comber

threads
heald
hoard
In

the

intended

to

couplings

of

board

I;

FIGURING

THE

VII

3, 4, 7, 8

crossingthreads, but

are

mails

in

heald

that form

An

where

threads
with

lift

consist
with

gauze

in

doup,

together;

move

mails

is suflficient to

easer

takes

rise at the
A
chief

position
as

off the

it is

which

every
warp

to

repair in
fall out

under

pick ;

but

in the

have

shed

line and

tendency

; it

pick

every

variably
in-

easer

takes

never

crossing threads
the

of

weight

the cross,

in

of

pick

every

latter,this

allows

but

to

doup

liftingan

permits straightthreads

form

breakage

with

of

to

of the

to

lift

of

most

doup,

convenient

disarrangement ;

or

weaver.

be

used

if the

doup

cases

formation

bottom

single-eyeddoup mails, for

course,

in such

over

in the

are

straightones,

form

Doup

with

of

case

of reach

may,

go

Another

the

doups

impossible,even

rub

for

former, doup and

advantages

many

is that

doups

threads

mails

oppositeside.

doup slipsto
Top

the

and

strain

crossing

doup

straightthreads

them

hold

top doup has

of

and

in

required.

ing
systems of work-

two

parallelposition,whilst

the

assume

lift

figure/

the

mail

place, for liftinga doup

is

with

between

; also with

top doup

straightand

liftingcrossing threads

bottom

mails

with

in harness

differences

chief

c.

gauze

for

half

loops of

two

h wherever

and

through

pass

by liftingdoup

easers

necessary

figuringthreads

The

with

harness

in

also

they

through

is formed

shed

cross

223

part of doup mounting

shed

open

a, and

easingmounting

straightthreads
For

HARNESS

an

open

when

former

twine

and

twisting
are

lifted

stationary

shed, the doups also

straightthreads

above

the

bottom

irregularopenings.
Harness
of

doup

only requirestwo

in

Two

harness

Sections
is still

sections in the

occasionallymet

Jacquard

"

one

for

MECHANISM

124

doups

and

easers,

(Fig. 1 25) is
c

from

the

the

tied to

lingoe goes

OF

other

for

WEAVING

figura

part

Every doup

separate lingoe h,and

up

through

comber

second

board

slipa

thread

A, and

is

THE

Vli

tied upon
the

figuring thread

HARNESS

e, that

225

the

controls

same

as

warp

doup slip.
By

in the

this

means

slip is only

figuring harness.

type, but

g is led

the

off to

the

two;

3, 4, 7, 8
and
that

Fig.

cross

126

shed.

the

that

%.

liftingfor

usual

the

thread

Although

this

of comber

through
an

and

appearance,
threads

two

pass

is of

ordinary Jacquard,

an

row

is lifted

warp

mounting

crossed

shows

fill part of

shows

board

exceedingly

an

crossing threads

doups

two

for

are

1 to

cords

neck

figuringcapacity of

friction.

threads

the

its

mounting

easing comber

gives the harness

increases

lifted when

Doup

shortly below

plan augments
it

FIGURING

open

crossing
board
two

easers

shed, and

t,

MECHANISM

i6

OF

of

an

open

patented

Bhed

harness

Jacquard

VINO

TART

Harness'

Wilkinson's

WilkiiBon

WEA

that

without

performa

requiring

the

work

additional

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

lift in

the

griffe. It

is attached

cylinder machine,

in which

connected

hooks

to

two

pulley(2,mounted
at

The

e.

round

of

to

the

other

machine
end

and

fast to the

shed, but

be retained

may

that

at

point

hook

upward journey, for

each

at

fall of h is taken

stmin

by

up

PART

length of

to

given

without

working part

any

upon

the rise of

on

the top

to

for any

cord

is

them

it is raised

time, by causing the reciprocatinggriffebars

one

; the

threads.

governed by

by liftingone

and

passed

lines of hooks

mounting

down, warp

are

g is

^, running lengthwise

alternate

between

is shown

grooved pulley /,

cord

neck

grooved

of which

second

is

(Fig. 127)

under

passes

series of fixed bars

hooks

bottom

line,and

ft,c, and

cord

pair of plates,one

of ^ is made

If both
the

of

one

double-actingsingle

neck

supplementary

to

one

platesalso support

which

secured

in

227

carry
off

by

putting

up
the

tional
addi-

of the machine.

VIII

CAKD-CUTTING

Designs

painted

are

that every

so

represent

horizontal

lines

squares,

denotes, as
in

holes
and
as

the

cross

many

At

lifted

certain

the

there

as

to

be

used.

designer and

are

zontally
hori-

vertical lines shall

between

space

two

the small

put upon

horizontal
intersecting
above

regular

lines,called bars, are

Jacquard

guides to

rule, warp

threads

Paint

weft.

and
vertically

two

every

vertical lines

by

ruled

between

space

pick of

cards.

paper

thread, and

warp

formed

on

weft,

intervals

ruled ; the up
needles

Cross

in

lines

card-cutter.

and

one

ones,

therefore
thicker

up

lines enclose
short

mainly

row

serve

of
as

228

MECHANISM

card

Each

is cut

cards

have

the

into short

from

effect of

to

those

used

to

The

of French

where
of

card

secured

to

others, but

fixed, and

box

punches

and

with

plateto correspond with

the

fitted above

is exerted

apparatus
press,

beneath
The

heads
the

all

one

turned

by

it with
process

one

the

on

; it is

copied is

reach.

easy
of

holes

latter

the

from

hand, and

the

The

carrying

plateand

fallingout)
of

pressure

this

the

some

kind

card.

The

is

roller

purpose

plates are

pushed

other.

is much

more

or

plain cloth

punches

into

for

regular,such
the

runs

end

be

design to

punches through

the

ground

one

plates

that

each

at

within

plates,and

supposed, especiallywhere
as

top

Both

painted design,then

generallyused

now

after

punches IJ" long by ^jV

prevent the

other

force

to

the

is

\' heads,
by

are

handle

which

one

punches (forthe

plate, the

rollers underneath,

containing round

dropped

are

lower

pair

and

together,

slidingcatch.

of

carryingplate,is perforatedlike

furnished

bench, above

diameter,

by

third,or

in

the

to be

in districts

It consists

hinged

are

upon

placed on

rule.

the

are

frame, with

sionally
occa-

classes appear

of all is still used

oldest

is locked

it,and

railway lines.
the

The

Jacquards

blank

over

existingcards

distinct,but

are

of both

machines

perforated plates that

closes

they

cards, and

to

of

set

those

combined.

origin.

in

by bar,

namely,

"

design paper

cases

many

familiar

small

placing

are

In
are

most

the

punched

design,bar

classes

perforationsfrom

copy

they

of two

are

pattern from

set.

new

to

holes

the

of

lines.

vertical

transfer

part

reading

side, but

to

turning up

Card-cuttingmachines
used

VI NG

horizontal

one

side

from

design extending

WE

OF

are

set

expeditious than
groundwork
twill.

for the

In

first

the

of

might
a

case

card, but

be

pattern is
of

after

plain
that

MECHANISM

230

of K

Each

from

its

thin

and

needle

has

spiralj

first,and

by

thin

punches,
from

also

each

end,

its

by

is drawn

treadle,and

to
cut

in the model

slide back

to

plate i

is removed
all

cut, and

manual
and

that

by

replacingcarryingplate i

consistingof
all

drives
fixed

punches
the

upon
is

machine
automatic

piecesof

612

into

pegs

wire

punch

of A

repeaters, the process

Reading-in

in

first

1821

by

still used

in many

pushed

out

from

by pressing down

to

where

to

holes

box

a
a

Carrying
card

of

^,

to

by
card

comb,

wooden

back,

second

card

is

operation.

This

compared

with

simple, but
is slow

and

contract

cutting the

^, and
the

are

either turned

into

needles

cause

and

costly.

Machine

card-cuttingmachine
Wilson

in

the studs

driven

trudes
pro-

cylinder pegs

After

continue

to

good, reliable,and

The

stud

be

press

upon

only

to

causes

back

holes

plates containing the

engine.

an

the

the card

plate %

under

moved

are

in

opposite blanks.

are

book

to

or

power

g into

card, but the card

needles

be

box

pushed

carrying plate i,

strong enough

are

from

push punches

forward

is

Then

of g.

at

enter.

peg-holesupon

plate A, carriagea
spnngs

are

with

hold

to

box

punch

which

6 to

end

one

constantly hold

to

drilled,but

opposite those

fastened

collar at

passing out

needles

permit
near

its holes

repeated is

the

plate A,

to

from
with

all

then

round,

once

c.

certain distance

wire

other,

plate

prevented

brass

large enough

the

beyond

receive

to

head
a

"

of

points

part

fitted at

againstthe

presses
at

VING

point by coilinga piece of

brass

drilled

shoulder

against plate /

the

WE

OF

was

patented

in

foreign communication.

England
It is

ally
parts of the country, but is being graduby

modem

improvements.

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

As

ordinarilyarranged,

1 29), which

go

by passing

each

it.

At

upon

round

guide

through
the

back

231

it has
rollers

head
of

612

6, and

and
the

endless
are

hanging

machine

cords

kept

(Fig.

in tension

heavy lingoe

cords

are

led

MECHANISM

232

in

down

corresponding with

enclosed

each

front

cord

of

as

follows

that

by

push

punch

through

forced

line,and

short

manner

that

sunk

follows

cross

every

As

draws

or

vertical

to

"

all cords

obtain

of

course

to read

thread

into

one

our

best

in front

inserts

man

in

and

for

few

presses
of

front

years

into the

the

formed

with

bottom,

in such

of and

and

behind

gradually

read-in

are

carried

roller
down

^
a

and

in

to

place of

treadle, and

by

so

doing,

carryingplate.

Machine

foregoingmachine
copying, from

repeaters.

cords,a series of vertical cords

the

them,

by

are

y,

reading-inand

automatic

loop at

tal
horizon-

Eepeating

and

across

cords

endless

its needle

representing lifted

picks first

slidingframe,

Reading-in

converted

It therefore

railway press

picks amongst

pushes correspondingpunches

In the

carrying

design is placed before

reading continues
another

it in

forward

twine

until those

front,where

pick,fixes

diately
Imme-

g^ and

box

12,

carrying plate i, and

The

respectivelypass

pulled onward,

rack.

forward,

g into

of

rows

transfer the pattern to cords

proceeds to

twine.

crosB

heel

ordinary

an

in

the

At

card.

must

warp

of

placed.
a

further

lease.

eye

and

latter it is taken

he

weaving

we

the

cord

box

end

of

sets

spaces

and

ps^r,

and

assists him
reader, a straight-edge

the

the

of

out

into

of vertical

punch

any

arranged

are

the needles

operationis as

The

end

board

needle

by drawing

of the

means

design

previously described, are

plate ",
will

the

latter

/, the

in front

number

an

part

comb

the

through

goes

supported by

are

on

form

e^ to

needle

Jacquard
and

rods

by

lines

thick

by

divided

VJNG

straightline,separated by

threads

WE

OF

and

Instead

of

was

which

using
each

(Fig.130) were
after

pushing

rod

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

latter

through all,the
the

Near

top of

each strand

threaded

233

forced

was

second

into

series of

through

loops c

turn

was

finallydropped
retained
cord

over

in

through

into

fixed
two

made,

and

lt""o"*~N
Q

d^ then

were

ft.

separate hole in guide board

Fig.

slot in roller

180.

wire

frame

holes in

guide pulley,and through

hook

6, which

/ by threading

/.

comber

Cord
board

^, after

in
its

its
necting
con-

passing

A, terminated

MECHANISM

234

with

Hngoe

the

to

i.

vertical

coupling twine

cord

of

needle

Three

n.

k,

and

its

end

rear

The

of

weight

until

such

time

transferred

the

as

of the top

y, k would

be

springs0

would

fixed
in

the

o, and

it

of comber

placed,and

proper

cord h

cradle

and
set

holes

in the

punch

in

An

machine

them

card, and

alteration

was

from

m,

pulled

needle

cords

into

a, had

the

in

of the

to be

in the

cords

^,

from

w,

the

the

machine.
Over

Jacquard

was

connected

to be

copied in

was

to
a

its

card

cylinder,the machine,

lift cords
case

into

presa

readilyunderstood.
hook

tion
posi-

punches

for

ready

the cards

each

of the

some
was

each

of

back

removed

ordinary 600

an

round

motion, would

Punch

positionof

By hanging

into the

Vertical

board

thread

leading

when

will be

front

pulling it forward,

drive

which

repeatingsection

the centre

in

box

reading-inmachine.

elevated,the weight of

expand, and

cord

Punch

immediately

completes the reading-insection

The

its

stop-hoop for spiral

as

design,read

carrying plate ^, after

This

acted

cord, and

cross

spectively
re-

and

cards, when, by insertinga roller

to

to

needles

contracted

fast

served

^,

and

to

up

made

againstplate q.

were

drawn

was

taken

/,then

The

guides for
n

abutted

tied.

part of k^ and

right angles,and

already described

as

n,

there

^, and

rollers

gaide

two

over

hoard

back

round

carrying plate t

needles

part

perforated plates |?,

collar twisted

0^ and

at

front and

as

in

VING

led

was

formed

holes
bent

WE

cord

lingoem

glass rod,

of

part

separatelythrough
over

OF

h
a

correspondingwith

spring

would

force

carryingplate t

Reading-in

was

afterwards

punches, by

obtained.

and

means

Repeating

made
of

in

which

All parts of the

Machine

the
an

form

and

excellent

reading-insection

CARD-COTTING

VIII

remain

preciselyaa

in

131

Fig.

also

remain

from

in the
to

j.

unchanged

former
The

; but

"3S
machine

Jacquard
cord

they

and

are

lettered

connections

k, after passing the glass

i
"

-^

rod, is taken
of

vertical

diameter.

over

punch
Each

guide pulley I,thence

to, approximately

punch

is filed away

U"
on

down
in
one

to

the

length by -^
eide

down

top
in
to

ita diameter

fine

li" is filetl awAv

onlv,

receive

to

thick

and

that

Slots j", ^ in

moyable

punches, and
After
lift

be

will

the

touch

that

has

card, whilst
This

On

is

form

machine

and

fixed
and
u;

on

cords

few

is

Co/s

iron
u

it passes

go

of the

former

over

to

roller

are

alone

framing

down

latter

above

slot p

/,and

u,

may

faces

the

perforated
is carried

pimch

every

the

of its reach.
the

on

Continent, and

required

are

Co.

"

ported
sup-

punches

some

point

out

are

bring

to

it.

supply

Eepeater

therefore

only,
cut

left.

600

board

Cord

is made

and

away

comber

lingoesm.

them.

slot p will puncture

Automatic

repeater

or

operated, and

alterations

Devoge

its connections

an

slot q

lines of

protruding through

extensively used

"

cords, /

ends

is

teeth,

amongst

forward

through

at

in which

reading-inparts
quard

slot ^, and

both

out

other,

has 26

; s

upon

from

punches, normally

moves

^"l,"

each

face

fall,until

reaching the

that

Devoge

This

lever

of

{x^yenting

placed in positionupon

locked

those

noticed

it into the

is

of comb

machine

it will be

card

/.

will

their

compound

tooth

when

latter

with

rest

the

of

punches

stops

in and

of

s, any

the

as

blank

the

plate w,
to

tosfide

of m,

weight

without

punches

to

space

thickness

pushed through

of 12

lingoes m,

locked,

plate t

up

the

5, then

of

teeth

still aUowit

of

by

be

maj

teeth, all i'' deep,

53

comb

and

deep,

At

adjoining rows

rows

withdrawing

some

this

sufficientlywide

and

Y deep,

punches

two

two

leavin^r

r, with

two

comb

will lock

tooth

each

comb

freely;

moving

twisting.

sMes,

tonoh

to

part

is left r""an"l.

j'

both

"xed

enough

from

them

"^

HkX.

VIXG

WEA

slots /", q, both

form

to

them

piec*^between

so

OF

MECffAXISM

236

all

the

Jac-

Jacquard
v

is

(Fig.132),

is attached

fast to

the

punch

to

the

MECHANISM

2j8
dots

q ci

lock

them

lifted

Plate

cat.

panchesy and

before

Jacqoard hy
thorooghlj

positive

"

machine

French

repeater what

the

Jacqoard

600

cranked
tomed

needles

and

pieces of wire

u,

they

hooks

and

that

through
thus

places,but
the

of

forming

Punches

face each
of teeth

needles, press

is

pushed

hole of

u,

the

between

is

each

long ;
the

at

is

it ;

over

and

goes

bends,

two

Combs

hooks

r,

top notch

f", whilst

the

both

former

over

to

the

be

the

three

If long,

round

portion

adjoiningrows

the

serves

at

is

two

have

is the movable

cards

usual

as

All slots in

J" long.

the

notched

side ; the

namely, 26,
in

punched

long, and

are

prevent twisting,but
Blanks

flattened

is

spring 2

spring

one

ones

other.
"

with

11"

are

only on

them

between

u\

21^^

slidingjoint.

lower

two

the

through

Two

ones.
are

are

miss

to

right angles, wire

at

steel

thus

in which

set

are

inclined

motion

latter

; the

combined

ponches,

bent

similarlytreated, then
is threaded

all

op

for

parts.

ponch box,

bars
griffe

(Fig.133),when

bottom, ponched, and

and

fewer

hooks

18"

govern

doing

action, and

direct

the

in

shedding

from

over

take

as

machine

is fixed

sacceeded

does

of

modification

recent

has

parts

spring box,

hooks

connect

the

10^" long

to face the

all vertical

maker

compact

more

most

Jacqoard

all

^namely,giving

Eefkater

is the

The

type.

obtaining a

the

machme

the

render

be

to

automatic.

M'Mardo's

card

by eccentrics^and

these

M'MuRDO's

the

punches, to

the

rises with

tr

cam;

sank

of

down

and

ap

pa"t

slots p

catting plate

is mored

ir

WEAVING

OF

as

number

same
a

stay, also

to

comb.

copied,

in

griflebars,

pushing
comb

back

is with-

CARD-CUTTING

Vin

drawn,
with

punches

hookB
of

out

corresponding

reach

of

the

cutting plate

on

comb

or

down, and

box

brought

is

of

means

after

w,

in

up

card

blank

moves

either

lifted

griffeare

the

on

to

which

lock

them

the

punch

bodily, by

down

the

eccentricB, upon

plate

stationary

Sliding

w.

of the

joints 2 permit

downward

movement.

This

machine
automatic

tall

Repeater

twenty

introduced
a

repeater, but
a

striking

years

lieved
be-

many

automatic

good

it has

proved

not

its

although

success,

construction

Nut-

ago

what

be

to

fectly
per-

reliable.

and

Nuttall's

About

also

ia

originaland

is both

ingenious.
The

part of this machine

upper

contains

needles
those

cards
over

successively

needle

blank
vertical

Jacquard,

hole
a

pushes
wires

into
in

sembling
re-

the

passed

are

cylinder d, and

them;

in

copied

be

to

(Fig. 134)

moved

contact

with

card

leaves

but

unmoved,
it back.

h, of

which

set

of
51

|||

MECHANISM

240

on

each

fulcrum

pin

connect

and

control

another

move

to

them

opposite

an

first set.

Each

that

plug;

in

punch /, and
will

be

card

rise ; its
make

are

12

they

are

plate k,

so

governing
the

top

bottom

to

that

their

needlea

c,

card

the

plug

be

head

resting on

the

but

covered
the

next

in

punch

being

not

of

blank

allows

card

so

at

cut

the

to

cylindrical

the

covers

and

by giving

imparted
with

to

centres

to

sufficient

perforation.

There

alone

of

cutting plate h,

withdraws

weight

set

at

rising. Every punch

the

through
of

coiled

are

position

it

prevents

part

furnished

is

normal

movement

model

51

its

e,

WEAVING

movement

needle

forced

upward

to

OF

horizontal

placed

that
them

row

of

row

of

the
are

a.

in tiers

bottom

the

Beneath

plugs, each

along
or

connected

c, viz.

of

rows

to

shorb
the

ing
contain-

stepped, perforated
of

row

top

longest, are
the

row

plugs

row

of

needles
a,

whilst

coupled

with

12

rows

are

the
of

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

punches, with
the

of
with

as

act

/, formed

down

moves

All

tion
posi-

provided

are

supported

the

the

distance

uniform

are

bring

suit

to

them.

one

they

to

length

on

at

cutting point, and

h

in

varying

plugs which

collar

the

heads

241

plate j

upon

blank

next

from

card

into

position.
The

wire

employed
all the

made

through

forcing a

so-called

Royle repeater
attempts

to

up

for the last

eight or

with

the

trade

the

above-named

in

others,

partiallycut

were

same

present being made

cards

of

the

from

to

design
of them

writing,none

Company

has

for,and

in

existence

of

supplying

been

for the purpose

years

cards cut

by, one

of

machines.

Card-cutting

has

not

Machine

able to trace

been

piano card-cuttingmachine

now

It has

been

forty
It

time

designs made

writer

cutting from
various

at

are

the

one

ten

Piano

of

cases

standing
passed the experimentalstage, notwith-

the fact that

of the

some

is in all essentials the

that will read

machine

be said to have

The

cards

clean

punch

; in

plug

machine.

but
automatically,
can

of

being perforated;

that

of

be blank.

least three

produce

from

close

so

should

NuttalFs
At

card

thickness

latter blank

leavingthe

prevented a

they

The
as

difference

between

its

superabundance

The

setting was

where

of
liability

in its construction.

card and

vibration
the

the

partly through

vibrate, partly through the

to

parts

failed

machine

the

years,

design.

and

that

during

time

the
in

development

general use

for

employed upwards
it has

undergone

modifications.
consists

of

an

iron

table,from
R

the

forward

end

of

MECHANISM

242

which

uprights

two

long by

OF

; the

deep

20"

rise

for the

guide

the

Both

design.
in

working
The

chief

moved

feature

of

piano

Fio.

135
is

firmly bolted

in the

card;
and
are

the

work

in

which

lower

through
in ; the
a

shoulder, and

row

down

and

screw

(Figs.

near

opposite ends

of

punches

vertical
shoulder

plates,
them

receive

to

perforated cutting plate,

the

from

of

two

deep enough

latter support

3J"

by

between

space

guide plate for punches

12

lines

as

135.

contains

them

two

serve

horizontal

is its head-stock

table,with

enough

one

one

upper

bored

to

wide

they

part, consisting of

the

upon

middle

the

lower

137); the

to

the

and

up

it,and

upon

side ;

to

52"

end.

each

on

side

PART

pattern board

pinned

reading along

are

nut

is

it from

in

eye

support

to

design

straight-edgestraverse

VING

WEA

to

for

movable
c,

Two

c.

holes

spindlesh

head-piece a,
|"

bottom,

from

are

top

to

fitted all

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

equal

in

diameter,

and

243

the

to

gauge

holes

in

Jacquard

cylinder.
Immediately

in

front, and

them, the peg-hole punch

but

The

is

I"

alt

Hupports
numbered

oblong
a

in

punches

from
heads

spiralis

; all go

edges

of

/.

the

pushes

hold

and

13

steel

springs

it out

is removed

pressure
to

clear

ends

spindles h

cross

head

(Fig. 135).

from

and

lever
2 to

13

keys,

and

large

any

pushed

the

from

when

punch
the

by

and

from

plates /,

away
a

12

right
10

to

by

the

by
left

key

its

spring

by

lock

nuts

punch.

lower

by pins ^

of

the

11

length,

is

pin

covers

hands,

in

Blotted

controlled

are

both

The

fastened

shanks

two
a

head

guide plate

of

by the little finger of the right hand,

When

pendant

of

the

between

shoulders;

square

one

Every key

remaining fingersof

thumb.

to

to

their

each, and

upon

shanks

pressed in, 1, 2,
thumb,

through

equals

edge

upper

have

13,

it

placed ;

d, by

c,

to

threaded

the

through
outer

diameter.

ia

exactly midway

are

pin

secured
goes

through

i,the latter is fulcrumed

a

three-armed

lever

m,

forked

aty, and
that

moves

is

MECHANISM

244

round
rods

centre
0

from

the

to troadlea

pass

The

"

OF

that,

manner

stock, with

his

vibrate

connections

the

as

feet

the

on

are

card-cutter
upon

part

remaining

two

p which

above-named

WEAVIifC

connecting

arms

pin

q.

made

site in front

in
of

euch

the

treadles, a downward

headmove-

M
ment

of his left foot will elevate

of

means

two

and
the
have

fixed
some

right
their

all

plate e,

punches

plates,then,
of
foot

the

carry

covered

of

out

card

keys pressed in,

will

heads

if

head-stock

is
a

pushed

and

through

the

force
card

by

move,

between

gap

between

downward

down

the

a, and

the
them
of

movement

all

punches

; those

that

uncovered

MECHANISM

246
In
a

front

of

card which

carriager nipper jaws

is

head-stock

of

is

the

of

jaws

carriageas
One

below

and

to

the

latter

slides tooth

at

each

treadle, also

one

led

is

small

rack

depressed.

An

index

tied

and

card

Cards

a^

knot
bar

cutting to prevent mistakes;

that

the

on

The

design for picks

pushed

the

between

lace holes

are

design,a

bar

holes, and
the

end

numbered

last

bars

is

the

from

is left between

26

27

to

peg-hole is cut,

; when

51
and

right
lifting
14,

cover

the

of

holes

gressively
prois

cord, exactly
the

as

cutter

number

sponding
corre-

straight-edge.

on

the

be

card

carriage r
to

and
for

beyond

26

27

may
for

be

is

first

and

peg

used

middle

pattern, but
that

and

same.

side, and

of

are

progressivelybefore

26

row

has

carriager

the

always

bars

from

the

number

nipper jaws

cut, then

above

of

arm

upon

One

on

the

must

the

as

t.

row

the

of

end.

end

one

catch

short

one

the

with

through

card, and

marked

at

card

is tied

board

always

number

guide plates,

pattern board, and

the

index

should

card

the

hand,

passed

plates

nipper jaws

the

is tied upon

in the

numbered

are

left

cord

the

knot

first hole

with

is

opposite

upon

the

read, and

is numbered

nailed

this

working,

the

to

close to head-stock

opposite the

the fixed

tooth

by

receive

placed to

movement

in

weight

part

pull the

downward

pin

fully perforated

is

is

design

guide pulleys along

over

are

the

it and

upon

cut

treadle

level with

close

the

is

y with

bar

VING

punches

stop and

from

holes

all

by depressing
close

pushed

pushed along a guide between

a,

opened

are

WE

OF

for

lace-

with

again the

51
end

lace-holes.
Card-lacing
Before
laced

into

cards
a

ready

are

chain

this

for

the

is still

loom

largely a

they
hand

must

be

process.

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

several

although

machines

247

have

invented

been

for

the

purpose.
For
wood

hand
or

-lacing a

metal

fastened

pegs
such

other, and

at

of card

be laced.

in

to

rotation

proper

Cards
and

both

through

pass

in it at both

distance

the

crossed
in

lace

held

from

over

back

again in

The

defects

the

lacing,an
in

the work

every
is

same

this

line of

positionby

it side

the

lacingis

; the

needle, so

left between

every

clearlyshown

to

which

of
50

knots

cards

the

it will

pair of
in
the

then

Fi^. 139.
tension

(for there

between
slow

be

holes

adjacent cards,

inequalityin

number
40

side

by

threaded

next

that

order, as
are

pegs

width

139.

lacing),and

performed.

suit the

two

plan

from

will

between

excessive

than

rarely more
knot

also

the
of

with

right to

and

card,

one

holes

as

series of

sides to face each

placed upon

in

large holes

apart

are

Pia.

amongst

required with

is

frame

speed

knot
at

of
are

and

which

OF

MECHANISM

248
is of

Lacing
when

used.
used

are

Cotton

and

singly and
form

plaitedto

others, again,it
It should

it is

is used

greatlyin length

vary

the

in such

be

always

steeped

from

like

being

lacingis

linseed

boiled

in

rope,

after

instances

some

in

oil;

ball,as delivered.
it will not

that

condition

the

as

conditions

also used

are

In

braid.

narrow

part

twines, twisted

they

VJNG

is in different

and

linen

twofold

others

in

soaped;

kinds

various

WEA

dry

becomes

atmosphere

or

moist
Lacing-Machines

Inventors
to

have

construct

twenty-fiveyears
the

cards

locking their
The

the

on

to

render

laboured
Count

Sparre
of

use

upon

the

side

to

seems

Parkinson,
with

problem

been

have

ordinary lace-holes

of

threads

only through those

shuttle

threads

are

By
from

this
hand

the threads

means

machine

-lacingin
are

in

one

Parkinson

sew

and

threads.

shuttle

needle

bined
flexibilitycom-

the

pany,
Singer Com-

and

others,have
less

or

card

and

success.

to

the

pass

holes, after which

the

threads.
not

except that
direction
have

that

Since

of the first to make

-lacing does

appearance,

twisted

Reid, Fisher, and

into

more
one

needle

linked

to

cards

fruitless.

Sparre,Stahlknecht,

the

the

by
of

lack

efforts

Eeid, Fisher, and

made

through

the

the inventors*

about

card, the inequalityof the

in each

twine, and

time, however. Count

Messrs.

needles

writer's

gained

was

points simultaneously,

three

or

the under

on

of stitches

number

tension

threads

The

was

attempt

an

two

sewing

stout

machine

when

ago,

together at

forcing

by

such

of

experience

the

lacing-machineon

sewing-machine.

compound

endeavoured

thirtyyears

automatic
satisfactory

principle of
earliest

the last

during

greatly
in the

differ

former

continually.

greatlyimproved

the

CARD-CUTTING

VIII

details of
fair to

entirelysupersedethe

1000

cards

without

be

can

knot

the

receive

the

forward

at

speed

lock-stitch

ordinary

The

cards

cards

are

to

drawn

are

of card

the width

with

commensurate

tained.
main-

projecting pegs

and

chains

600

to

well

pass

only.

small

with

to

to

be laced.
The

Singer Company

place

above

and

and

times

of

in the

firm, but

width

as, for

the

card,

thread
600*

troublesome

very

altered

employ

below

by forcing needles
is

lace-holes

chains

400

be

to

employed,

large holes, and

a

from

it,900

cards, three

600"

are

that bids

one

With

process.

hour, and

or

usual

endless

upon

produced

also appears

tension

heads

lacing through

hand

per

lacing400"

sewing-machine

to

laced

; the

When

fed

have

and
lacing-machine,

249

two

tapes, which

and

stitch

all

together

them

six

or

through
card.

This

where

cards

It is also difficult

the

to

of bed

manufacture

and

replacebroken

and

remove

eight
lacing
be

to

quently
fre-

their number,

by adding to, or taking from,

instance,in

of

system
have

they

table

covers.

cards.

Card-wiring

Cards

that

straightwires
the

cards.

two

cards

They

These

should

to

keep

an

uneven

Some

from

bed

on

waxed
the

for the cards

prefer to push

the

adopt

wire

the

first-named

is determined

by

on

the
to

side

the

over

to

of

gap

ends

of

between

prevent slipping.
cards

the

the

the whole, it is

vertical

by

in order

will

give

upon.

between

The

loom

both

cylinder,or they

rest

wires

plan.
the

band

face

touching

lacingbefore tying ; but,

to

placed

are

with

tied

be

them

wires

the

above

IJ" beyond

projectabout

tied

and

cradles

from

suspended

are

distance
and

two

lines

of

probably better
from

horizontal

wire

to

space

MECHANISM

2SO

available
but

16

the

at

24

to

loom.

are

secured
that

cards,

them.

of

But

not

are

from

will

as

from

the

wires

slide down

"

to

the floor.

take

metal

of

apart,

curved
such

The

cards

from

And

bend

of

remaining

places,and

composed

should

cradle

should

be

they drop

taken

are

length

prevented

where

pilingup

inside

the

cards

manner

pass

it is

the

metal

apart than

fresh cards

as

their

which

caught, and

cradle,those

of

latter,will

the

\' farther

or

will be

prevent

pieces

two

fall from

cylinder.
of

rear

of

piecesof

than

more

fallingto

such

the

the

cards

12

Jacquard cylinder in

they

as

card, the

the

as

only

are

Cradles

consist

beneath

part

general.

more

cradles

VING

wires

Some

Card
Card

WE

OF

from

up

automatically

thus leave

free

fall to

descending cards.
The

sectional

shape of

sufficient firmness
further

is

and

cradle

holding

is unimportant ;

required.

PART

IX

LAPPET

is

peculiarsystem

or

bending
and

them

after

both

range

of

those

of

their

they

assume

over

points.

lappets,still

transverse

pick of weft, it
line, but

Elaborate

there

to

are

whip

move

longitudinalpositions by

horizontal

every

economically woven

shedding designed

of

out

until

SHEDDING

of

liftingeach

ends

between

be

threads

warp

given, nothing

are

power

provided

by them,

small

such

as

is fastened
floats

figures are

many

direction,

loosely

beyond

effects that

detached

at

the
can

spots,

LAPPET

IX

and

continuous

narrow

stripes. The
various
on

threads

in
a

the

are

in the

supports

desirable.
frame.

relation

small

weights.

the

by

the

to

for

designed

and

to

enough

to

Lappet wheel, whip

cranks

of

from

slightlylonger stretch,are

beam,

of

the

from

and

both

in

or

as

sheet

iron
fit

to

and

IJ" to

It is secured

bent

in, and

the

found

cords

board

race

tions
posi-

be

may

frames.

pin

then

Fig.

form

to

slay cap

at

circular
semi-

is bolted

2"

at

both

is bolted

front

stud

freely.

Both

is made

fabric

front

bolted
c,

of

of

arrangement

an

spots, in

lappet figures,or
is

parts

from

entirelyfree

figure

length.

is

140

bracket

continuous

weave

its

illustrate

141

portion

no

throughout

wheel

wide

Large

warp

the reed

slay back

Figs. 140

reed, and

behind

the swords.

behind

which

immediately

above, below,

back

piece

groove

ends

namely,

"

separatelyweighted by

for needle

room

bottom

warp

ordinary type

alterations

frame.

pin

the

is moved

reed

leave

and

also added.

to

convenient, and

to

have

to

of the

one

the

situated

are

most

The

from

slay bottom

and
are

liable

oftenest

are

separate whip roll is required for each needle

They
with

of

pull.

together with

7" sweep,

grounds

least

before

frames

needle

rolls,and

side

board, but

receive

to

they

followingadditions

the

less into

or

embroidery, and permits

gauze

only differs

provided

race

6"

or

by

lappet loom

groove

plain

because

disturbed

having

imitates

more

patterns being produced simultaneously

fabric, but

employed,
A

and

251

figuresrunning

system

colours

any

SHEDDING

on

the

which

on
are

of

elevation
front

of

wood,

a.

and

ratchet

either

cast

in

are

bolted

one

are

It

the

slay swords,

supports

lappet
piece,or

an

wheels
if the

together.

The

able
adjustd

turn

lappet
latter

MECHANISM

252

of

consists

cylindricaldrum

indentations

moved
on

from

pin

in

cut

ratchet

the

as

is rotated

It is flattened

d^ f.

edge

hollow,

to

VING

or

the

knife

PART

of

series

in such

vice versd ;

points

varying
that,

manner

by tooth, feeler

tooth

between

6, midway

WE

having

its front

ridge to

in

OF

of

will

is centred

with

contact

it touches

edge, where

be

the

.iUinjin;i3iamiiiiJiM.

V.

7
Fig.

but

lappet wheel;
cord

tied upon

short

it that

bracket

pendent

spiralspring A, or
into

pin frame

frame

at

its

as

is carried

screwed

other.

turns

one

The

end, and
effect

made

needle

on

of

vibrates

has

fast upon,
frame

g,

is hooked
elastic,

made

fast to needle

of h is to hold

irregularface

round,

rounded, and

to, and

cylindricalpiece

constantly against the

hence,

is

arm

upper

shifter i at
the

140.

of

lappet

in

unison

feeler

wheel

d;

with

the

MECHANISM

154

made

smooth, then

equal

in

pitch

cylinder
lines

cylinder

of

out

in

of

equal

example,

For
the

periphery

then

thin

teeth.

equals

of

vertical

They
the

are

space

fabric.

Thin

cylinder

axis.

let

with

be

pointed

thus

surface.

its

periphery

spaces

the

to

are

indefinite

horizontal

Thirty

and

be

those

by

lines
-two

of

parallel

taking
be

must

the

divided

picks

lines drawn

in

one

through

cylinder'saxis.

in

occupied

series

the

suit

the

lappet cylinder

lines

steel teeth,

After

Wn

(Fig. 142)

the

part

used, is pressed against the

be woven,

to

point, parallelwith

each

comb,

lathe, and

lathe

repeat of the pattern

WEAVING

to

along

the

number

reed

scratched

are

into

the

to

it turns

as

metal

OF

design, h (Fig. 143)

when

scratched

number,
two

opened

warp
are

horizontal

but

the

by
in

comb

pitch

threads

parallel
spaces

out,

in
with

on

each
the
the

design

LAPPET

IX

but

give

pap"F

picks

line of

both

at

will

wheel

spaces

d.

form

of

pattern
In
and

at

I,

lines

be

seen

required

that

first horizontal

the

fioata

in each
the

Therefore
the

figure,which

feeler
needle

or

find

to

case

2, *i is 4 dents

that

a,

dents,

dents.

over

of

space

passed

It
lower

frame

will
than

(Fig. 140)
g

through

space.

2,

(Fig. 142),

passed, and

3, A, 4 dents

are

on

4, d, 4

in

like

where

the

first

same

to

figure by moving

effect of

order

add

; then

over

and
At

17,

taken.

out

that

In

all

(i,

At

spots, such

binding

whip

so

32, d,

as

threads
before

threads

a,

each

to

ends, for this has the

being pulled

On

is maintained.

preventing whip

sewing.

a,

immediately

singledent
and

16,

and

detached

many

are

taken, and

ends.

spot

dents

pattern.

are

to

passed

are

passed

dents
up

it is necessary

begins

for

also

more

33, 34, d, the

In

taken

manner

1 S dents

in

6i

are

reproduce

to

are

On

the

cloth.

on

move

of

show

first line of i, 2

1, d.
will

e'

tened
fas-

float,64

there

the

be

muBt

every

hence

starting-pointof

the

pattern,

revolution

one

teeth

the

spaces,

of

Thick

on

whip

ends

equal

lappet

of the

repeat

one

each

as

SHEDDING

across

spot
same

from

fastening-off has
such

cases

extra

MECHANISM

256
teeth

in

spaces

the

be

must

WE

VING

PART

ratchet,and

both

horizontal

extra

equal one

pick of

essential

to

weft

in

piece.

but

and

care

cuttingof

are

accuracy

lappet wheel,

else the

beyond these little more

A

needle

frame

deep by |"
4" to

6"

lined

with

imparted

without

brass

to

threads

to

and

the

repeat.

If

dents

pattern
the

pattern

has

reed

37x20
filled,
per

it is

of times

number
Thus

determined

are

740
23

at the
to

dents

vertical

one

to

lift

whip threads

positions

dents

32

inch, and

needle

movements

above

whip

of the

frame

two

the

the width

37" of

mark.

J"

pattern

warp.

each

the

has

per

be

can

of steel

and

occupiedby

twenty-three equal parts, and

has

for

size of

the

dents

to

protrude

number

repeated on

patterns.

frame

eyes

(Fig. 142)
20

lift

number

and

form

by

generally

top, pointed, punched,

exact

into

Every

grooves

0, secured

vertical

the wood

into

The

through.

pins

movement.

all flattened

are

pass

fabric.

are

driven

are

needles

the

side

ends, and

flat

that

manner

perfectly smooth,

made

the

lJ"to If"

horizontal

two

freelyupon

any

needles

J". They

and

such

of wood

made

has

frame

fit

proper

patternwill.bedefective,,

equidistant from

brass, to
y, in

or

Each

long,cut

the

is needed.

(Fig.144) is

thick.

pin frame

it

in the

provided

lappet wheels, for

Great

of

OF

37"
740

-r-

of
32

is divided

is driven
"

to

in at

namely,

moving shuttle.

LAPPET

IX

and

lateral

A
serves

as

form

unlike

throughout,and
all will touch

and

ends

in

grooved

slide

of

Each

of attachment

to the

The

It

h.

brackets

fonner

their

secured

are

has

but

wound

in

an

it is led

over

as

set

will

unwind,

pendants

arms

pin

to

the

in

loom

their

cranks

are

at

on

pulleyn.

one

are

their

swords

it,

upon

whence

m^

a, the

wind

the

frames

connections
the

frames

the

to

strap

is,
on

straps of

bottom

centres.
to

up

spiral

pendants i,
a

move

high enough

threads

whip

Such

swords

lifted

continue

centres.

g,

upon
as

under

pass

it will

back

on

/.

this arrangement

needle

the

on

fastened

finallybolted

invariablybe

to

free ends

pin frame

those

to

on

respectiverollers,and push

all

must

from

long

will

so

cord

down

however,

arrangement,

and

pendent

with

y, and

frame

shuttle

cranks

below, the point

otherwise

effect of

doing

of

frame

the

allow

to the

bearings bolted

the

strap 20"

back

moves

drawing

forward.

*,

The

spring,acting through
assists in

and

guide pulley,and

and

i,

in

oppositedirection

surfaces

the

upon

sinks

brass,

screwed

are

pulleys m,

screws,

similar

shaft

lifted,

tipped with

\ which

two

front rail of the loom.

that

1" apart

are

guide for the

true

are

vibrates

vertical

Pulley

the top, and

that,when

1 J"

are

straps 8" long by 1" broad, fastened

by

to

pins

In

slay.

carries

have

surfaces

brackets

shaft

horizontal

form

frame

this

the

They
so

that

against.

run

pointed at

are

rises above, and

slay bottom.

transverse

false reed

frame, but

and

board

Both

into

shuttle to

the frame

into

race

merely

tip to base.

from

driven

the

the

They

the front

at

is

needle

diameter.

long by \' in

shuttle.

for
a

threads

whip

j (Fig.140)

it is not

257

pattern.

background

flattened

forms

thus

frame

pin

bends

which

one

and
position,

SHEDDING

when

With
rise until

additional

this

the

rise

MECHANISM

258

superfluous,and

is

VING

WEA

OF

part

undesirable

puts

strain

the

upon

threads.
The

following plan
Bolt

preferable.
its

by

rests

of the
this

By

weight

own

frames

required, and

minimum

push

strain

of

is

is

that

full part

pendants

up

lifted to

only

are

let the

and

and

frames

pin

tappet treadle

cam,

strap from

contrivance

to

upon

and

needle

moving

strap from

the

unwind

cam

for

put

i.

the

height

upon

whip

threads.
Two

but

patterns

more

or

separate lappet wheel

patterns, another
in

both

Where

picks,and

other; then

the

feelers

vertical

as

into
extent

feeler

an

cam

of
much

Instead

with

inaccurate

and

latter

contact

frame.

It

to

wheels

friction and

disc,drilled

will

the

of

ders
cylininside

one

instead

of

different

by

upon

but

in

needle

frames,

ment
perfect move-

the

different

carry

will

traverse

usual
all

to

be

are

of

arc

and

vertical
a

to

circle,

employ

rotation

to

elbow

an

from

the

commences,

face
sur-

small

imparted

slidingfeelers

before

to

parts of its

lappet wheel,

the
lever
faces
sur-

and

saved.

drum,
using a cylindrical
at

wheel,

separate

move

the

wear

of

frames.

must

is also

ated
is situ-

other, two

the

invariably superior

withdraw

lappet
of

with

is

two

number

same

acted

be

to

needle

consequence,

needle

thus

the

the

because

one,

set

horizontal

two

only economised,

not

horizontal

and,

by employing

given to

the

on

singleratchet

than

oppositeside

multiple of

For

already described.

manner

connected

is

is

to

e, each

cylinders and
mechanism

is

one

secured

be

can

the

on

patterns repeat

where

each.

smaller

larger or

in the

simultaneously,

woven

required for

is

corresponding space
connected

loom, and

wheel

be

can

regular distances

such

with

as

holes

(Fig.140),

arranged

to

form

one

or

lengths
of

be

Such

by simply readjusting the

driven

be

can

patterns of different

multiple of

of the

One
in

the

and

one

holes

disc

are

design.

delicatelyadjusted

very

tension

regulationof

the

attended

be

important points to

most

lappet-weaving is

threads,

that

to

accommodate

to

the

lengths,provided

designs

Also,

pins.

speeds

diflferent

at

various

tage
great advan-

the

of different

large number

has

wheel

or

one

by securing pins of

formed

holes.

permitting

woven

disc

the

in

a59

substituted,and

be

circles,
may

more

patterns will be

more

SHEDDING

LAPPET

IX

wires

to

whip

upon

provided

are

for this purpose.

Fio.

threads

The
cords

and

thick

pieces \"
wires

cords

that
ft,

drilled in both
cords

upon

of

one

framing.
upper

degree
power

c, d

and
to
to

(Fig.145)

4"

two

Then,
behind
which

threaded
flat
as

to

1"
reach

"

on

each

wooden

end-

wide, into which

the

across

two

warp,

are

holes

are

side of their centres,

protrude

whip

threads

the

lower

wires

c, d

off

needle

through them, twisted, and

the

readilygive

of two

spring

the

parallel. Two

springs that

cords

between

through

consist

apart and

3"

end-piecesf
are

and

and

long

led

are

reed

the

long enough

are

secured

driven, and

and

by

rolls

whip

under

healds

Spring

eyes.

from

145.

or

are

take

from

in

pass

twisted
up

the loom

front

6, it follows

of

that

determines

whip

tied

in unison

the
the

their
with

a6o

OF

MECHANISM

the

rise

and

fall of

adjust tension
threads

to

ab

use

the

as

Scotch

manufacture

added

every

is

strain

mechanism

type
of

point

still hold

and

to

the

The

essential

needle

frames

of

moved

shifter

with

side

to

lever

hanging

first

through

wheel

also, that

ifl).

equal

space

the

to

all

is

rotated

of

of

space

one

picks ;
moved

are

jjgj^ij TFcight of
other

its

on

one

feeler

alternate

width

upward

receive

^jjQ

in

cut

tooth

then

one,

wheel,

groove

shifters

that

wooden

on

That

frames

j^y
on

are

through

that

and

horizontally

peck,

or

14fl

and

large

that

needed.

vertically in,

'

one

framing,

lappet loom

Scotch

by,

Fia.

loom

ordinary

an

has

namely,

"

floor-spaceis

features
are

it

exten-

adapted

patterns, and

recommend

to

additional

no

such

in

ia not

continuous

is inside

part

consequently

nice

nevertheless, it is well

important advantage

very

It

prevent

foregoing lappet

the

to

needlea.

part

tight

The
aive

so

the

WEAVING

slot

in

movement

end, and
the

lappet
from

comes

cams.

Such

lappet

the

beyond

fabric, and

irregular groove
of

movement

or

sycamore,

preferable.
it
becomes
any

one

wheel

cut

in

some

worn

place.

This

slay.
to

revolve

by frequency

so

of

of

limit

wheel

close-grained
is not

side

one

the

its sides

frame.

other

Its diameter
not

of

one

on

with

swings

needle

does

is situated

hard

of

loom

It has
the

is of

an

latoral
wood

timber

is

great importance, provided

rapidly
contact

that
with

the
the

groove

peck

at

OF

MECHANISM

262

fixed

points, after

four

for

the

in

5 to

threads
be

must

cut

WE

allowance

VlNG

has

thickness
the

of

part

made

been

the

peck.
of

dimensions

exact

at

of

groove

thick

the

marks.
Two

patterns
second

but

shown,

be

can

inside

groove

this

beyond

from

woven

the

outside

or

by

first

is needed

wheel

new

wheel

one

ting
cut-

one

for

as
new

pattern.
A

wheel

radial

h has

lines

catch

is

that

then

into

comes

forward
the

employed

cams

in their
the

of

because
lift,

is

side of

one

on

point

flat iron

of

edge

alternate

on

h to

picks, a

place immediately
frames

needle

needle

the

spring is employed

and

midway

are

all strain

is taken

A
means

shaft

it to be

of two
in

from

such

from

the ends

fast to

of

two

by their
ends

oppositeends
upright

of

arms

brass-tippedneedle

of obstruction,

this

on

needle

ends

is at the
on
over

shifter.

grooved
frame

lever

that

frame

of the

full side of

the

lappet

pleasiu-e.

taken

are

lever ;
catch ;

intermittent

weight

own

straps

to

works

the

upon

case

extreme

other

rest

with

the

on

full side of the

manner

at

given
when

their forward

frame,

started

that

in

made

is

which

depresses a

weaving

is

fitted

and

expands

When

traverse

cams

levers

made

it

stopped and

horizontal

the top the

small

smash.

bowl

spiralspring

as

by

cam

sliding connection

figures,a
enables

frame

through

acts

prevents

the catch

given to

latter

that

at

the

and

the

part of this catch

takes

tooth

one

by

inside

wheel

between

space

peck.
Movement

at

the

slide

to

the

solid upper

the

with

movement

each

on

permit

to

as

contact

cut

negativelyturned

it is

grooved

through,

pass

and

d^

tooth

to

on

tappet
is

one

Two

bottom.
the

by

cams,

and

guide-pulleys
The

latter is

the inside for

fit in

and

slide

LAPPET

IX

and

up

down

connected
the

without

by

thin

the

shall
shifter
in ;

of

part
in

groove

lappet

be

the

the

the

the

wheel

determines

shifter, until

as

lever

the

peck

latter

in

lever

must

be
when

far

lift

begins

when

all

to

side

is
of

move

of

the

sustained

by

one

the

ment
movecause

space

lever

of

width

the

only

has

half

at

works

how

touches

shifter

that

but

can

is

shifter

horizontally

uppermost,

of

weight

shifter

is

long

so

peck

frame

carried, for

immediately

groove,

move

cam

slide

to

to

movement.

wheel.

lappet

sufficiently
heavy
the

end

any

263

adjustingpiece to

an

of

groove

SHEDDING

it

cam

is

removed.

Lateral
below

the

forward
end

movement

bottom

is

the

has

vertical

the

The

length

and

cloth

length

the

needles

number
in

the

the

; and

length

frame

figure

when
of
x

the

dents
the

before

namely,

"

the

fully lifted

be

should

from

direction

the

the

depends

amount

exact

pattern.

fabric,the design

dents

many

The

of

but

woven,

estimate

moving

whip always largely exceeds

of

consumption
of

are

fell of cloth ; it must

begins

needles

the

in

reed

the

the

movement

points

delivered.

pick is

entirelyupon
To

and

warp,

in its backward

traversed

beating-up point,
when

of

approximately ^' from

before

the reed

line

needle

per

whip required

of

counted

be

must
at

covers

each

to

pattern

the

repeats of pattern in

given

find

how

of

the

is obtained

"

needles

yards

one

of fabric

yard

a*

traverse

of all movement

sum

for

for

of
one

whip
yard

dents

per

inch
per

Take
horizontal

as

an

in reed

of cloth,

inches

yard

example, a (Fig.142),in

lines

of

whip,

23

needles

in

which
a

there

are

32

frame, 20 dents

MECHANISM

264
inch

per

reed, and

the

in

WE

OF

40

picks

in

length

VING

PART

of weft

inch

per

in

the

fabric.
The

the
To

lines of

and

pattern,
these

from

end

spot in the
dents.
of cloth

92

equal

number

10

second

of number

next

To

Total

added

the

first to

the

vary

an

be

must

the

from

whip

the

first half

dents

22

half.

second

over

beginning

number

of

of

in

moving

in

mo"dng

of the

first
216

repeats of pattern per

yard

"

picks
^

40

inch

per

36"

per

yard

"

",.

64

216

passed

the

to

spot

the

in

spot, and

"

in the

dents

dents

Altogether, 92+92+10+22

repeat.

find

follows

as

dents

23

picks per
needles

per
20

dents
per

inch

yard

22i

patterns.
^

pattern

22^ repeats

yard

per

^^,

J yards

155
x

36"

one

yard

of

whip

of cloth.

for

PICKING

265

PART

PICKING

mechanism

Picking
shedding,

and

containing

the

weft

and

is constructed

in

operation consists

between

the

timed

passing

and

upper

follow

to

shuttle

lines

lower

of

warp.

With

the

method

adopted during

countries

was

through

the

the

simply

consisted

box,

of

and

known
his

as

the

it

ensure

Kay's
his

shuttle

invention

time,

their attention
suit

steam

as

but

the

new

motive

of
to

slow
when

modern

conditions
power.

box
each

of

purpose

shuttle.

wooden

handle

grasped with

rapid lateral

to

find

of

movement

sufl"cient

favour

adopted, it
almost

looms

improving

force

to

box.

once

became

\ it

placed

propel the
a

"

spindlewas

the

weaver

with

of

Over

metal

to

the

jerked

was

was

method, and

Constructors

to

cords

by

by making

to

Kay,

boxes

end.

one

employed

it

shuttle.

|", for

about

entering the opposite

own

the older

of

picking stick,which

the

arm,

1738

it

as

hand

flyshuttle

"

length,a

connected

and

the

as

sides,and

two

driver

or

in

reception of

diameter

were

right hand,

his

of

picker

drivers

the

hand, throw

one

but

of all

weavers

ordinary slay of

an

its entire

extending

guiding

to

by

the other

side ;

known

was

bottom,

fixed, having

Both

for

in

it with

opposite

what

opposite ends

shuttle

catch

addition

an

centuries

many

the

experimental looms,

few

the

shed, and

introduced

Bury,

at

take

to

from

emerged

was

of

exception

and

with
soon

principallyconfined

alteringKay's

It is indeed

displaced

universal.

have

which

weavers

were

invention

introduced

difficult to

with

imagine

266

MECHANISM

better

simpler all-round

or

picking
has
in

remains

proved

order,

and

machine.

the

from

point in

century inventors

objectionablefeatures
of

large

so-called
to

shuttle

guards, swells,

with
result

of

To

directed

smooth

to

the

pirn
in the

almost

the

retains

the

weaving,
The

in

out

being

tongue

thread

shuttle

wood, pointed

latter

wooden

effect instead

or

used
a

defects

weft

and

tube, and

length of
in

through

an

rapidityof

it to

eye

be

fixed

motion

in

the

working

in the

of

nected
con-

liable to be

at

first

must

hard,

tipped with

steel ;

receptionof weft,
cop,

wound

and

front

tongue

operation of

the
as

metal

extends

This

part.

away

upon

end

one

chief

of the

cause

ordinary picking

upon

continuous
shuttle.

shuttle, together with

the

veloped
de-

from

pressed

hollow

drawn

in

details

attention

position during

one

allows

the

reed

evidently the

is made

of

shuttle, that is hinged

entire

accidents

loose

and

are

for the

form

imperfect controllingforce, is
defects

that

ends, and

centre

in the

paper

patenting

cause.

which
itself,

the

ing
spend-

problem, for they attempt

of the

at both

most

warp.

are

negativepropellingmotion,

it is hollowed

the

the

an

picking motions,

which

of

fully appreciatethe
by

be

the

and

variety of

endless

an

picking, many

deal with

the

entailed

of

put

the

remove

straps, fast

misconception of

host

check

appliances,pickers,and

loom

safeguardsto prevent

include

the

throughout

to

work-people,breakages of machinery
inventions

of

developing and

in

and

of

defective

from

that

laboured

money

improvements

These

to

fact

; their efforts have

of

sums

result

remaining parts

have

ence
Experi-

loom.

dangerous part

together; notwithstanding the

entire

tages,
advan-

these

action, costlyto keep

in

most

all the

part

with
still,

accidents

serious

VING

weak

the

far

by

than

motion

it to be uncertain

More

picking

WE

OF

of

motions

an

serious
; but

PICKING

it remains
to

for

divert

Weight
teaches

in

from

its true

course.

affects

its movement,

for

that

the

across

is

shuttle.

heavy
is

loom

obstruction

any

heavy enough
close

constant

risk of

shuttle

positionof

effect upon
The

turned

the

than

the

thin

employed

thick

off at

thread,
when

relation

shuttle

propel a

to

weft.

with

gravity

be

feared

shuttle

heavy

a
a

fine

pull

will

it passes

of

shuttle

empty

as

that

to

of

centre

place,and

fabric,there

weft

it

drawn

resistance, and

lightto

from

force

of

gravity has
its

change
in

from

time

light than

almost

coarse

each

to

has

an

its motion.

is

way
of

direction

gravity; but

unless

gravity, the body

and

further, if

line

the

will

not

in

i"asses

force

acts

merely

point which

that

body

which

is

free

to

will be

in

body

blow, motion

straight line
the

as

when

body

subjected to

the

delivered,provided

defined

been

position in

direction;

any

in any

move

of

centre

not

of

of its

of weft

divert

an

body

square

this is the evil most

and

being greater

is made

the direction

does

drag

mechanics

force takes

to

selvage of

the

weight

of

tend

moving

weight

every

flyingout,

change

alteration
The

overcome

the

to

eye

necessitates
an

the

to

liable

more

to

The

weavers.

the

equal

loses

Therefore, unless

its weft

by

shuttle

of

study

and

weight

proportionatediminution

away,

as

its

to

forces which

possessed by

energy

proportion

velocity; hence,
moves

various

shuttle

us

varies

analyse the

to

us

267

the

blow

is

through

the

centre

of

through

the

centre

of

as

move

whole,

but

it

will revolve.
A
moves

shuttle
at

control,and
to

is not

free

to

in

move

high velocity without

it is therefore
move

it, and

under

being

imperative
the

direction, still

any

that

parts used

as

the

it

positive
force

ployed
em-

guides,shall

268

act
to

MECHANISM

minimigft

to

any

WEAVING

OF

t^idency

to

PART

rotate, or, in other

words,

flyout.
For

the

that

let it be assumed

moment

parallelogram,having
of the

body (see Fig. 147).

centre

of

gravity

of

its centre

":,and

the

gravity at
d

If force

all

parallelto

shuttle

is
centre

through

passes

Fig.

are

shown

aid of

at

a,

guides ;

knotty, or

5,

147.

will

movement

but

the

entangled

the

which

of

sides, two

such

slightestobstruction,
will

warp,

the

straight without

be

rough,

as

be

sufficient

to

pass

through

the

set

up

rotary motion.
If the

line of

gravity,then
line of
to

force does

the

not

distance

between

force represents the

produce

rotation

Fig.

sides of

rectangle,c

force,and

c,

Rotation
and

can

from

experts

advocate

top and
a

before

two

represent

its centre

of

gravity,d

the

line

of

leverage.

farthest

the

a, h

exerted

148.

be

checked

by placing guides,

board, against those

race

will be

leverage which

(seeFig. 148), where

gravity and

of

centre

of

centre

the line of force

placing

front

shuttle

the centre

than

; for

the

the

sides
this

shuttle

back

and

the

of
reason

tips

bottom

gravity. By

so

doing

it is

rectangle

some

textile

little

nearer

that the line of force shall be

of

reed

say

or

so

structing
con-

above

and

argued

that

MECHANISM

270

has

tendency

reference

against which

and

free

and

it to

cause

end

of

will

be

above-named

be
weft

to

draw

of the

out

direct

This

centre, but

shuttle

eye

is

full,which

when

cop

coarsely-pitchedcoil
cop

and

the

absence

the

tip
of

tension

straightmotion
first,by
of

of

of

; and

diagonal pull being

of

the

upon

resistingit.

in

such

pirn has

weft

for

of

free

and

the

will be

in

from

as

results

shuttle

unused
and

tional
puts addi-

we

find

twofold

increased

the

of

former,

coil

result

than

out

the

the

in

in

weight, which
the

pass

presence

Every

modified

when

to

between

tongue

secondly,by

case

pull.

by

found

weft,

exerted

the

eye

nearly given

the latter.

shuttle

ft,

forward

the

placing the

either

is less

shuttle

coils in

reduction

force

the

from

slightlyreduce
to

effect in

accounted
of

of

eye

150.

weft

or

shuttle

the

front

is due

tion
obstruc-

any

Fig. 150

intensityof

that

known
when

the

the

proportion to

It is well

in

reed

ally
ninning diagon-

through
the

cate
indi-

arrows

that

pressed against ft,and

Fio.

weft

obvious

whilst

tendency.

the

By

fell of cloth, h the

d the

of

fly out;

straight line.

the

a, it will

will, in Fig. 149, tend

of

part

150, in which

moves,

passage

VING

WEA

out

of motion,

shuttle

between

it

and

Figs. 149

to

the

pull

to

the direction

to

OF

in
power

the

degree
a

tion
reducof

the

is least capable

PICKING

the

In

the

both

in addition

named

its

is

parts

reed,

When

crank

takes

is indicated

the

parts

in

are

and

In

5.

loom,

moving

crank

continues

to

point it

moves

reaches

the

Fig.
of

shuttle.

with

the
be

to

the

of

centre

dotted

various

solid

parts

lines;

pulled back

each

the

until

circle A, where

that

fullydealt

are

the

this time

at

part

addition

of

round

Let

line

has

been

loom.
with

the

lines 4

movement

travellingacross

the

After
the

d!^all

fall of

between

fallingwith

the

slay;

shuttle

simply

leaving

slay until

but

it

that

finally

box.

elucidate

further

the

space

point 2,

the

forward

at

is at

which, during the

and

across

sword

the

than

shuttle

back,

and

when

by the

of

the
rf',

pass

will

the

reasons

plane

oppositeshuttle

152

the

periphery of

that

indicated

moves

up

motion

of the above-

crank,

letter,with

consequence
d to

when

the

same

lower

slay from

the

swinging

slay bottom,

move,

positionof

noticed

being

slay bottom

follows,

lines.

againstdotted
be

centre

of g.

to

place for

the

by

It will also

in

the

arm,

continues

The

XV.

in Part

dash

path

begins

point 2

g reaches

slightpause

with

circular

motion, and

is in

on

It

partly round

moves

positionscorresponding

occupy

slay

shuttle, h

connecting

shuttle

this

upon

it presses;

swinging

of

that

board,

race

connecting arms.

partakes

which

the

showing

slay,and

and

is the

rocking-shafte, /
line

the

are

diagrammatic representation

previouslymentioned

of translation.

own

sword

the

shuttle

to

Fig. 151

of

of

translation

reed, against which

of cranks

action

therefore, that

the

forming parts

the

shuttle

it rests, and

which

by

of

guides

two

of

movement

It has been

considered.

be

must

actual

place,the

next

271

the

represent

motion

aggregate

the. width

of

loom,

MECHANISM

272

d the
that

backward
a

OF

movement

of

Other,

moves

3, and

in the

rise

are

slay ;

shuttle,in passing from

Fig.

But

WE

diagonally from

not

taken

show
into

VING

PART

it will then
side

of

be

loom

found
the

to

151.

to

oppositediagonal from

this does
not

one

all its
account.

2, straight from
3 to

to

4.

motions,
In

for the

Fig. 153,

fall and
a

equals

PICKING

width
from

1 to

straightfrom

moves

Add

nearly

the

to

shuttle

begins
the

rises from

3, and

2 to

modifying

above-named
its

when

journey

speed as

same

(Fig.151);

but

the

as

reached, then
the

to

from

crank

2 to

decrease

from

therefore, partakes of
direction,but they do
the

On

shuttle.

reducing such
For

the

when

the

if at such

weight

times

against the
and

minimises
If due

velocity and
throw

to

them

may

out

assist in

reed

move

it

across,

greatest velo-

its

153.

reed

and

box

travel

to

the

slay at

back

in the

with

force

and

removed,

were

direction ;

same

slay's
speed causes

acquired momentum,
its

shuttle,

continue

rapidchecking of

press

is

pause

in

begins to

the

Fig.

but

of

some

shuttle

with

C
5

the shuttle would

the

velocityproportional

tend
necessarily

contrary,

travellingback

city,and

in

is made.

to

at

variations

all

circle

tendency.

example,

is also

many

not

until

at

approaches point 2,

increase

an

back

periphery of

in the

point

that

influences

slay is moving

velocityof slay is rapidly reduced,

to

shuttle falls

The

slay.

4.

to

2,

fall of

5 the

of loom, 4 and

275

the shuttle

proportionateto
this to

some

its

extent

to fly out.
liability

consideration

is

given
T

to

these

points,it

will

MECHANISM

274

reveal

the

motions

existence

for

an

what

apparently simple

article

be

will

as

is generally

that

moving

presents

best

be

the

relative

values

to

such

of

the

following points are

first determine

to

essential

as

In

mechanism

varied

good

parts

can

absence

of

suggested

as

essential

better

good pick :

"

Power

(1)
When

consumed.
is

shuttle

of power

negativelydriven, an

results,partly on

of

account

the

the best of motors

is liable to variations

shuttle

teaching
the

force

shuttle

through

shed.

engine, and

the

by springsor
For

and

loom

it out
to

drive

provided,
units

twice

the

be

stored

to

that

necessary

for

out

or

driving

it

actual

the

is taken

from

created

be

must

power

ployed
em-

affirmed

into

three times

performed

after
are

been

required

work

appliances.

let the

force

required

representedby
number

it into

These

swells

shuttle

assumption

useful

hence

employed.

this

for

other

of

equal

On

example,

across

drive

is

drive

to

rebound

to

has

it

because

speed.

reason

that

manner

required

box

required

power

which

partly

in

permitted

box, for

such

impossibilityof

required, and

be

never

shuttle

in
that

must

force

waste

enormous

the

accuratelygauging

of

render

to

shuttle

the

considered

readily estimated.

more

definition,the
to

be

may

then

for

tend

obvious

desciibe

to

propel a shuttle,it

motion,

that

for solution.

attempting

features

part

less efficient than

shuttle

VING

things

many

become

Before
to

WEA

it will

and

complex problem
used

of

throwing

supposed,
such

OF

number
units

2 units

in brakes

box

or

2
are

are

one

unit

second

box

wasted

to

pass

of

work

unit is
third
to

; then

to

employed,

unit
1

shuttle

must

be

profitably

spent in annihilating2 other

springs,consequently 5

units

of

work

is

pick

required
it

into

delivered.
drive

to

that

and

force
the

in

been
in

154

what

it is

of

allotted

made

force

that

this

inventors
for

be

not

of

is the

swell

is
:

shed
mous.
enor-

weight

as

main

shuttle

largely

simply

that

the

are

pass

attempts

many
of

have

is

drive

to

weaving

is

of

(actors,
in

across

employed.

the

waste

taking

to

than
still

waste

it

move

required

reduce

in

time

force

more

warp

and
the

each

wasted

proposition

to

one

to

box

looms

illustrates

contrivance
a

the

first

should

direction

leaving

the

through

taken

time

excess

time

Fig.

the

that

assuming

box,

of

wasted

are

usefully employed;

Therefore

shuttle

them

of

shuttle

hundreds

containing

Even

of

out

or

exceeds

and

consumed,

are

and

power,

sought

pressure

lever,

for

from
to

one

have

that
also

shows

improvement
the
end

shuttle
of

;
on

which

MECHANISM

276

strap h is attached, and

connecting
is

arm

arm

the

with

results in

desirable

is

it enters

for the

the

less

shuttle

likely

others, there
the

Again,

is

great

the shuttle

acts

the lower,

at

merely

pick and

the

by

sented
repre-

points of

this it

beyond

consumed

power

; it is

the

leverage between

and

likelyto

are

this

at

granting

shuttle

astrous
dis-

the most

found

be

; that

time, if fully open,

out

that

to

of that

excess

are

place than

break

to

develop

room

obstructions

this

at

great tendency

required
in

tially
essen-

back, give considerablymore

pass,

power

is

velocityis developed suddenly, and

shed, which

is still

greatly

be

cannot

defects

throw

to

the

satisfactory,

as

frequentlyproduces

moves

to

J, strap h

negatively-diivenshuttle

and

most

will,as the reed

considered

be

in

; for its

greatest where

is,as

crank

As

motion.

one,

results

slay sword.

slay.

of

jerky

of

upon

thereby relieving

a,

higher point

of the

movement
a

is bolted

rotation

power

diminishing the

The

the

at

and

swell

the swell lever

increasingthat
(2)

the

difference

the strap

and

part

shuttle.

saving of

the

by

crank

2k

appliancecan

an

ultimate

contact

\"

back

pnlls

upon

If such
the

VING

opposite end

its

depressed by

tightens and
pressure

WE

OF

the

at

warp.

high speed

denly
sudit

required to develop

gradually.
The

second

should

begin

to

slay centre

the

decrease
at the

(3)

proposition is, therefore,

should

slowly, and

move

then, from
take

that

place,until

that

develop speed
point, a

shuttle

to

up

corresponding

final pause

is reached

opposite side.
A

positivemotion.

Nearly
shed

all the
result

serious
from

accidents

shuttles

that

occur

flying out;

in
this

ing
weav-

is

due

MECHANISM

278
writer

The
in

now

the

on

is true

in

from

cause.

The

mere

is

and

before

analysisof

an

for

improvement.

subject,and
others
kinds

positivein

are

between

diflbrence

if

pick,but

when

The

and

becomes

are,

a, those

that

deliver

and

6, those

that

deliver

it from

included

in

the

shape
to

motions
the

the

piecestruck

shuttle,and
the

admitted
than

it

the

that less attention

as

of

are

three

fulcrum

be

been

consequence,

relates

which,
under-

an

the

boxes

bottom

shaft.
it

of

more

can

the

crank

the

has

as

the

under-picks there

from

obtained

are

the

negative,

pick mainly

Of

division

this

when

this

upon

projects above

blow

impart

to

best results

deserves, and

it

over-pick.

motion

of

former

under

;
to

to

are

boxes, is known

the

an

obtained

pressing need

put

picking arm

portion of

some

problem

pick and pick motions;

an

the

the shuttle

entirelybelow

the

which

of

and

positionoccupied by

picking

inattention

been

have

some

over,

over

an

of

constantly directed

action.

namely, under,

"

to the

time,

to

shuttle

formidable

what

to

the efi^ect instead

will reveal

motions

time

control

Also

arising from

almost

been

numerous

from

market

further

work.

the

gives

requirements

that

the defects

pointsalready mentioned
has

which

trulysatisfactory
pick is

the

Attention

seriously

must

to deal with

show

to

demanded

prevent such

to

of the

enumeration

solved

be

must

task

student

to

motions

picking

it without

guard

attempt

an

sufficient

is

few

economical

applicationof

flyingout

motion

leaves

then

principleor

of the

that

part

mechanism

of

piece

and

blow

the

VING

the

but

pages,

whether

shuttle

WEA

capableof accomplishingthe

preceding

consider

extent

fullyconscious

is

are

use

OF

is

push

shaft,
In

most

possible to
than

blow

plished
accomsatisfactorily

it must,

given
it may

to

however,

be

this matter
be

generally

PICKING

affirmed

picks

that

such

consume

under-picks when

more

of shuttles

risks

279

work

power,

flyingout

with

compared

less

smoothly,

over-

and

the

greater.

are

/^

""'cvri?;

JK
I

ft

MMM/M^itH"*'^

*^

I I

M
Fia.

Pick
series

pick

of boxes

require
are

and

to

returned

be

at

motions
each

from

the

are

one

looms

applied to

end, and where

from

driven

155.

side

opposite side.

two

of

or

that have

They

shuttles

more

loom

before

allow

any

single

of

pick

is

which
them

colour

any

are

weft

of

rarely attempted

with

PART

passed through

be

to

VING

picks,and

important changes

making

Most

of
verted
con-

small

cost,

require

the

at

of

addition

be

can

others

but

shed

picking.

alternate

of alternate

modifications

without

WE

OF

MECHANISM

38o

numerous

parts.
lever

The
the

of

fastened

with

bolted
that
and

into

comes

to

wooden

or

leather

iron

from

rib

e, projecting

shoe

this

g;

its fulcrum

pin

of the

arm

fixed

the

on

end

has
in

rocking-

156.

through

the

and

slot in the shuttle

picker dropped

on

arm

picking arm

shaft

has

outside,

an

upon

bracket

passes

plate c,

; at its forward

from

slay,g

contact

the back of the end

near

framing

Fig.

",

lever/?,

is fulcrumed

it rests

one

of

metal

curved

At

6.

rotation

part in the
bowl

bottom

adjustable

an

bowl

and

an

156)

and

the

upon

shaft,to carry
stud

of

it consists

(Figs.155

one

under

known

best

motions;
arm

is

pick

top of

its upper

over

shuttle

box

swings
box

with

bottom

end

the
and

wooden

prevents the picker

flyingoff.

When

bowl

depressed ;

the

strikes

picking arm

the
and

picking plate
picker

are

lever

tilted over,

is

and

the

shuttle

arm

g to

is driven

its normal

across

the

end

opposite

again,also

that

If

is

picker

further

view

of

boxes

when

the

Ic

in its

usual

the

the

shuttle
side

one

at

back
it is

shuttles, picking

front

in

of

the

it, and

over

is made

cranks

in

from

d is the

"

as

arm

buffalo-

is

guide spindle

thrown

of

without

is

pick is
is

passes,

loom

is

helical

delivered

reversed, the

spring Z,and

plate c

depressing lever dy

either

moving

the

loom

the

upon

pulled by

the

without

bolt

When

c.

full side of c, distends

surface

plate bolted

which

7n, and

when

; but

the

of

out

backward.

for

guide

with

picking plate c,

lever,d

fixed shoulder

consequently

boxes,

being

turned

are

manner

along

placed

are

acting at

ordinary direction,platec

the

back

pull

picker.

serves

strikes

slides
and

is

more

or

alteration

spring I against a
bowl

pick

slot

follows

as

slot

running
in

the

drive

to

sliding picking plate through

and

loom

two

the

the

duplicateparts

the

preventing shuttles

It acts

it,c

that

dropped

pushed through

other.

through

passes

hide

when

has

loom

of

the

inoperativeat

spring and strap

position.

It will be understood

281

PICKING

picking

arm

or

shuttles.
It is of the

be

to

positions

of

allowed

for

of contact
If the
of

blow

before

the

fix upon

picking

length

of

and

lever

shaft

bowl

5, and

the

followingdimensions

to

shaft
centre

to

bowl

of lever

ratio

are

usually varies from

lever

"

d^ the

centres,
lever

of

at

is

relative
the
its

time

point

namely,

centre

1|" radius,

centre

:
"

the time

to. A

it

depression.

assumed

pin 15'',

done

be

can

4", bowl

centre

shall

picking plate c

this

picking,the depression of

with

picking

of shaft

the

but

correctlycurved,

necessary

that

importance

utmost

of

for

delivering

pick; ^3^

of

282

MECHANISM

OF

WE

VING

PART

revolution
will

be

of

picking shaft

taken

here ; thickness

and

length of picking

plate l"by 6"; length and

depth

of lever d 36"

depressionof
of

lever at

point

depends partly
length of shuttle box,

contact

upon

partly
form

of

ratio

position

upon

shoe of

connection

of

lever

d must

We

velocityuntil

are

plate.
shaft

of

Fix

of

path

of bowl

vertical

4"

trace

sixteen

also divide

3 divide

circle

equal parts

5, If" radius
5

Eound

bowl
;

3, 4 into

space

describe

line

the

line 2,

equal parts.

point 4

Drop

diameter

1 into

upper

with

centre.

from

the

position of

to

3, and

tion
posi-

picking

circle

radius

(Fig. 157),

the

with
a

the

centre

describe

four

in

now

construction

crease
in-

is reached.

proceed

to

move

rapidly

pick

because

begin to

and

in
of

1";

say

depression 1, 2, 3,

slowly,
end

and

with

picking arm,

4, in equal times

by 2f ";

draw
of

circle
the

picking

PICKING

plate

right angles

at

of

periphery
by making
Next

find

below

line

line

continue

it

the

centre,

in division
From

the

cut

Trace
the

mark

1"

From

describe

lever

make

much

capable of throwing
and

back

elevations

with

two

either

picking plates c
latter

are

connected

it is

as

any

bar

parallelwith

and

a,

circles.

it

gives

2" above

point
curve

the

on

long by taking

in

and

3"

on

pick

motion

irregularorder.

very

to

of

both

arms,

opposite ends

t^, and

in such

pick

Two

upon

number
at

with

give respectivelyplan,front

160

be made

can

centres

clean, simple,easilyaltered,

shuttles

keyed

pivoted
by

used

of this motion.

bowls, are

give

to

bowl

any

picking plate is complete.

because

Figs. 158, 159,

6"

line

centre,

as

concentric

from

fall of lever

with

9, 10, 11.

arcs

as

at

lever

radial

corresponding

curve

plate c

the

pick is

weaving,

shaft, and

by

periphery of each,

oflF the

cut

X,

8, and

arc

take

the arcs,

succession,where

curve,

centre

oif 15" to the

equal the

to

by

depth

extremity of

describe

5.

the

cutting points 1, 3, 6, 10,

arcs

touching the

line

for silk

half

point formed

cut

plate

centre

find

equal parts ; then,

ten

side of 12, and

The

pin

To

the

of

the

parallelwith

fix

d^ drop perpendicular 12, draw

each

and

arc

opposite side, then

and

each

through

depression.

in

correct

lever

give d

radius

as

11, 10, 9, 8, and

a

d and

line and

centre

on

of

point
arcs

and

lf".

left will

concentric

ratio

each

the

to

it into

divide

describe

thickness

3, 4 intersectingcircle 1, describe

point

and

touching

rightangles to 2, 3, and

With

complete
same

line of lever

21" to the

right,and

the

below

1"

6, =2f-r2

2, 3

2, 3, and

Show

line

centre

line at

line

to

circle.

second

the

producing
of

bowl

283

strike
times

the

lever a, whilst

the

of the bottom
one

of the

in succession.
end

rear

that

manner

furnished

miss

or

and

one

other

of
is

The
each

is

restingon

is moved

from

2S4

MECHANISM

that

its lerer

of

part

VING

WEA

OF

where

otherwise

would

bowl

PART

strike it.
The
of

and

mechanism

^, which

has

of its sides

one

on

other

star

to

into

come

wheel

^, and

is set-screwed

; in

with

cause

and

notch

chain

shaft,

bottom

breaks

two

of each

the centre

contact

the

on

with

bead

consists

picking plates c

goYeming

slide wheel

opposite each
fixed

for

break
of

an

exactly
stud

is

eight-sided

barrel,of which

it

_"C"

^a".

Tjj

ijr

Fio.

\^

forms

part,

158.

partially rotate

to

on

stud

the

inside

framing.
Chain

required
with

the

order

of

barrel

one

s, also

Lever
latter

the
rises

or

Bell

is built

is

falls

crank

is connected

of

up

thick

picking;
link

it is

inside the

pulled upon

chain

lever

by

link

moves

to

the

links to suit

passed round

and

on

lever

framing, carries
by

turns

a
s.

stud

bowl

spiral spring u^

it is thick

the link beneath

as

thin

pick..

every

centred

and

or

in the

stud

t;

and

thin.

back

connects

rail,and
v

with

286

MECHANISM

against the

keyed
with

upon

its axis

OF

WE

VING

PART

under

side of

picking fingerd

short

shaft

placed

in

the

plane

as

Pio.

^NmHmtN^

supported

in

brackets

framing;

it also

connection

made

round

both

the

i and

g.

shoe

with

of

long

picking
A,

and

a;

and
e

is

161.

162.

/, /, which

carries

shaft

is

"

Fig.

latter

the

right angles to

at

horizontal

same

bolted

are

curved

arm

arm

the

to

^,

having

A, by bending

bolting

second

end

strap

strap /

to

287

PICKING

bowl

When

pushes

partly revolves,and
straps y, i, pulls

in

the

up

doing

picking finger d,

so

arm

picking

over

and

A,

arm

out, tightens

moves

shaft

the

drives

shuttle.
and

Spring
pick

strap k
back

pull

to

employed

are

the

the

after

arm

in

as

the

lever

delivery of

each

blow.
will

It

pick

be
be

can

that

observed
the

in

run

only

furnished
dii'ection

opposite

shuttle, the

loom

effect

with

this

without

produced

turbing
disthe

being

slackeningof straps i,j.

As

used

single one

; and

the

one

rotary

shafts

When

6.

of the

previouslymentioned,
tappets and

loom

is

lever

moving pickingfingersd

of

purpose

alterations

are

first,

instead

lateral motion, in

secondly,a

box

by

side

each

h at

striker

double

pick and pick looms, the

on

of

addition

given

to

the short

to

connections, for

the

of strikers

of reach

out

moved, the shafts retain their positionsfor

once

picks.

two

leaving the system

Before

be desirable

shaft it may

with

upon

favour

by

possesses
in

consist

the

maintaining

picking

mention

to

the

and

majority, is

good

the

in

energy

the

bottom

looked

never

still

Its

points.

gradual development
fixed

from

contrivance,which,

construction

in

clumsy

although

of

used, and

chief

of

advantages
and

power,

picker for

doubtedly
un-

all

in

speeds of

loom.
Two

flat

springs
the

opposite sides

of

above

upon

forward
in

turn

proper

cam

ends

are

bolted

also at

loom;
the

bottom

connected

to

gradually elevated, but

moment

to

deliver

the

to

back

right angles

shaft, they

the

picking

suddenly

pick.

framing

arms,

liberated

and

to

have

at

their

and
at

are

the

288

MECHANISM

OF

Picking

to
a

principleof picking

from

have

been

Smith

of

wheel

as

obtain

looms, otherwise

two

strikers

by

the

top shaft

delivered

twice

that

hand,

of

pick

have

"

the

the

the

be

and

from

than

164

the

shown
is

a
c

shaft

the

short

in

time

as

is

one

other

be

must

paratively
com-

during
also

contact;

to

shaping

to

box

the

in
a

this

as

of the

bolted

placed

supported by footstep /

side

and

box

the

shaft, h

before

"

upon

the

outside

outside

the

end

bearing

one

carpet

of

163
the

h.

An

framing

and

of

the

elevations. Figs.

crank

upper

shows

shuttle

known
principle,

striker

Whereas

pick

cone.

and

the

of

and

front

portion
is

length of

apparent

box.

cone

picking tappet

striker
e

control

shuttle
a

slightly

it becomes

end,

the
of

and

slowly over

with

made

applicationof

On

attention

looms

length

between

ceases

of

shaft

blow

speed

4.

the

to

much

under

pushed fullyf

fly wheels,
inclined

not

experiment
is

: :

other

the

powerful

as

the

crank

harsh, owing

of these

is

pick," is
and

consumption

receiver.

or

picker

more

2^

the

pressinga picker against its

One

to

circles described

times

picking finger are

turning one

contact

fly

shaft,

bottom, and

four

1^

other, and

and

either striker

picker

the

the

diameters, then

same

impossibilityof paying

similar

of

bottom

reduce

former, because

delivered

striker

1834, with

power

the

the

by

latter will

by

sharp

that

of

and

equal,the

moved

one

"

the

by

delivered

On

in

appears

power.

two

the

shaft

Brothers

and

powerful pick

more

by

which

crank

the

those

with

compared

in

that

by

part

Shaft

the superiorspeed
utilising

of motive
If

introduced

VING

Crank

the

from

The

view

for

WE

it carries

PICKING

short

connected

shoe

in the usual

the

upon

bottom

pin 71, by
the groove
which

oil

bears

by passing strap j

diagonallyby

shaft, that

means

i; the

arm

of

bowl

fork

box

normal

the

shape

lever

causes

(?, running

on

is also formed

against collar \

and

than

latter,d

and

if the

I;

tappet

striker c, therefore

if the

oscillate

to

stud

in w,

and

raises

or

",

leaves

in

164.

according

former, fingerd
h remains

is

to

higher

stationary;

brought together,and

are

in

extremity of

shaft

picking arm

and

on

at the

Fio.

positionslever
of

its

round

tappet Z,keyed

Fig.' 163.

their

latter is

manner.

is elevated

curved

picking arm

to

Shaft

m,

collar A, and

finger d^

289

the

pick is

delivered.

By alteringthe
suitable

speed, two
loom

form
or

side of the

two

followingmodifications
made

shuttles

more

one

Alterations

tappet I and

of

in

in

succession

in

can

driving it
be

this,and

driven

at

from

also in

the

"

method

the
u

of

moving

picking

MECHANISM

390

of

only
the
in

have

fiuger

fonned

theee

swivel
each

OF

will

the

be

the

subject

mentioned

pick; they

case

WEAVING

Two

patents.

namely, Yates's, and

"

in

refers

letter

same

several

of

here-

shown

are

part

Figs.

to

165

to

similar

168, and

part in

the

carpet pick.
Yates
caused

its upper

by making
for

top end
curved

and

of

shaft

as

it

of

of

In the

be

in

wheel

by

revolves,
the

reach

is

of

liftinge bodily,

from

away

plane

two

/," the

cam

instead

pushed

with
as

driven

swivel

166),

inclined

an

moves

finger beyond
^

to

furnished

face

light

end

use

1/ is

e;

and

(Figs. 165

as

3,

an

framing.

the

upper

flanges,between

which

the

and

against

the

upon

groove
latter

is

pushed

the

and

up,

of striker

set^crewed

from

gearing

rests

crank

out,

shaft,

until

is

c.
-

pick (Figs. 167

and

168)

the

upper

bearing

PICKING

only permits

g
e

is neither

way

of

side

carpet,

and

is

rf,until

and

stationary

scroll

admit
side

crank

of

formed
where

the

Brothers,

(Figs. 169

to
a

170)

run

movable

of

out

the

out

a.

in

such

into

each

piece j

of

striker

have

npon

its

full

of

end

is curved

near

to

framing
of

that

manner

introduced
lift

fingerd by

consists

other

heen

being

one

the

to

rests

round,

moves

is ahove

of range

Scroll

", and

to

Picks

object

bolted

p,

shaft

disc

of scroll motions

varieties

Smith

pushed

nor

hinged

pick tappet

Scroll

Two

consequently

e,

pick.

miss

elevates

in

movement

the

which, finger

To

p.

rotary
in

aB

Yates's

Instead
lever

lifted

in

as

of

igi

the
inward

for

bored

cast

on

1,
at
the

t-

of

means

grooves

top

striker

and

beads

by

to
one

are

point y',
purpose

MECHANISM

292

of

half

turning

other,

-moon

Half-moon

fly wheel

6,

travels
which

to

to

6, permits

of

", thus

moon

in

hole
n

to

moving
is

in

one

in

rotate

striker

groove

and

1, 2, by the

grooves

the

into

by

rotation

stud

of

passed

169.

bracket
with
c

PART

figure (171).

it is connected

striker

VING

groove

in detached

Fio.

through

WE

of

out

clearlyshown

as

OF

in

1, and

i*, and

piece

v, bolted

and

slide

upon

and

out

in, when

out,

when

"

in

the

groove

side
half2.

Fia.

Fia.

171.

172.

PART

armed

PICKING

lever

is

hinged

295

the

to

framing

at

a:;

one

arm

r\

\/K

Fia.

passes

under

carries stud

and

173.

supports finger^, and

5, which

passes

through

the

the hole

remaining
in

arm

half-moon

MECHANISM

296

It is obvious

r.

1, and

groove

OF

that

If this contrivance

pick they

troublesome;
the

and

general wear
do

Scrolls
and

they

is in

it is in groove

2.

the swivel

over

Half-moons

are

doubtedly
un-

and

frequently broken,

are

is considerable.

tear

lend

not

raised when

prominent.

very

part

advantages

possesses

not

are

pick when

to

VI NG

d will be

finger

dropped

WE

themselves

conversion

to

pick

into

pick motions.
Over-picks

Several
few

over-picks that
fast

are

ago

years

the system

of

it is not

making headway.

looms

as

varieties of
The

be

to

found

pick

cone

also,of
and

some

is the

when

has been

It consists of

placed

outside

the

results,for
satisfactory
be

can

moved
and

steadiness
Shaft

merely
is

short

stud

positionby
roller.
the

The

former

as

other

and
arm

nut,
c

; it is attached

is of
to

suit

pick and pick

(Fig.174), which,

of

the

support, and

framing by

footstep at

to

fabrics ;

most

greater

obtained.

of

6, passed through

screw

medium

framing, gives

loom

the fulcrum

part of

positionthe picking tappet

thus

the

to

to

shaft

point

own

top, and

the

near

serves

in that

and

weaving heavy fabrics,

modified

loom

solidityare

is fitted

bearing

its

near

looms

vertical

many

systems

to ; it forms

weaving lightand
wide

as

together.

referred

one

and

narrow

the mechanism

looms.

taken

be

exception,

one

other

it may

embraces

all

using

picking motions

fast-runninglooms

most

general that, with

exception probably

one

are

in

with

met

becoming obsolete,and

affirmed

Still that

commonly

were

carry

slot

ring

cannon

bottom;

lever, of which

wood,
a

the

in a, and

one

arm

fixed

in

conical
looselyfitting,
and
on

much

longer than

the top of shaft a,

PICKING

that
with

has

radiating teeth
teeth

similar

grooved

cap

the

is bolted

fast

From

together.

the

side

under

forward

end

of

ring

fit into, and

to

picking arm

upon

for

surface

its upper

on

on

297

to

hold

leather

all

strap

^UJ^
Fio.

passes

down

to

immediately
which

the

174.

picker, the
shuttle

box

latter
centre

being
by

retained

spindle on

it slides.

Motion
upon

over

the

stud

passes
h from

through
a

the

tappet

cone-shapedantifriction

nose

/, keyed

upon

the

roller

bottom

298

MECHANISM

and

shaft
shaft

inside

towards

the

shuttle

across.

fixed
a

the

loom

similarlyshaped, but

the

vary
take

of

time

the third

that

is fitted at
that

each

to

of the

the

after

which
into

below

power

required to
c.

when

arm

and

A
is in

each

shuttle

to

to

to

spond,
corre-

diametrically

are

of

points

one

up,

as

set

ends

to

state

of

of

is

^,

rest

at

impinge againstit

side,the
the

pullingback

more

by

less slack

or

c,

that

follows
so

it

requires

its backward

complete

to

situated

one

; it therefore

back

is

shafts

both

spiral^,

delivered

upon

Or, what

from

always

hoop

framing.

is utilised in

picking strap

spiralspring

screw

of the

moved

both

part of the framing, and

pick is

with

contact

picker are

pick by

by

bead

distend

the

picker is only partiallymoved

the

formed

loom

in constant

kept

opposite

then

the warp,

arm

for

also

is

looms, the straps

to

below

other

narrow

connected

are

to

nose

convenient

upon

for
still,

slightadjustment

side of

the

strap that is fastened

better

with

provided

picking nose.

other

h is

on

deliveryof

immediately

a,

the

points down.
roller

is hooked
a

the

one

to

groove

when

tappet // and picking arm

back

bolts

picking tappets /

other;

other

conical

The

picking;
"

except

of

permit

parts,

slots

concentric

piece namely,

Mechanism

opposed

slots

the

through,

three

picker
drive

velocityto

in

causes

its

and

arm

sufficient

smooth, oblique surface,and

pass

move

part

striking h

in

is made

Tappet /
is

VING

that

and

with

centre

disc, another

WEA

framing,

partlyround

to turn

OF

traverse.

The

pick

high speeds

have

attention
small
but

rendered
upon

attained

by

it necessary

its construction

consumption

of

power,

it is still defective,and

must

view

reduced
remain

to

using

this

considerable

bestow

to

with

and

looms

many

easy

wear

working,
and

so, for the

tear

energy

PICKING

is

from

developed

such
crank

shaft
at

but

its

that

makes

only

of

speed

its

make

comparatively slow-running

exceedingly short

an

velocityis
the

pushes

^^

uniform

evenly acceleratingspaces
is difficult to

It

required

power

conditions

under

differences

in

and

rough

drive

to

it

followingrules
First,work

be

can

time, through

of

open

amount

the

to

variable

office, such

its

and

by large

small

reached

as

sheds,

strong and

warp,

approximately

weak
the

by using

"

accumulated

in

tappet

the

where

^" ^
"

equals the weight

of shuttle

9.

performs

and

must

minute

from

of

units

accuracy

friction,caused

it

part of

shuttle, owing

the

proportion of 1, 3, 5, 7,

with

which

smooth, close

swells ; but

in the

obtain

shuttle

; it is obtained

stud, in equal

cone

the

^^

to

in

fore
revolution, there-

minute

shaft

ordinary looms

of

;J to f

picks

from

not

that in

time

from

200

in

journey

299

pounds,

feet

velocity in

per

second, and

32-2.

For

example,

minute;
a

that
of

space

shuttle

assume

shuttle

feet

in

44*4

60

of

10

feet per

picks

200
is moved

oz.

the

pick,

across

speed

average

second, and

per

of

the energy

is

developed
^

make

to

weighing
f

is

loom

foot lbs. per

^

19'13

16x2x32-2

pick, or

19-13x60
,^
=

go

(^^^

Now,

what

velocityof
blow

of,

must

be

4 4 '4 feet

iiJ lbs.

it acts

19*2, and
Then

the

Q.O

force

second

per

10".

horse-power.

of
1

the distance
y

blow

Let

the

in feet

to

produce

mean

force

through

1 0
''
=

2304

lbs. per

pick.

this
of

which

the

Or

qaestion

body

10

feet

second

per

Find

oz.

by

on

the

VING

pot thus

be

may

is acted

rest

of 44*4

reW:ity
weighs

at

WE

OF

MECHANISM

yx"

part

"

which

force

The

/ seconds

in

body

Let

of force.

magnitude

it

gires

equal

force
To
to
an

Now,

find the

revolve

of

second

here

times

minute, and

per

deliver

iV of rhf part of

/=

\
.

value

^"^to

22

=ft

numerical

100

angle of

22^5^

lbs.

in

of t, assume

44*4.

picking shaft

that

as

through

it turns

blow.

each

minute

is taken

J,. ^^^

^40^

/.

....

Knowing
value

for/, the

Also

have/=

we

The

20"

by
by

with

and

reed

the centre

of

vertical
In

order

picking force
bo

transmitted

in contact,

are

an

race).

place

it leaves

and

arm)

not
a

average,

length of

The

because,

a,

c, if drawn

arm

picking spindle,should
the

eictent

some

latter should

(thus,on

45" shuttle

the

over

centres

of

spindle in

the

by giving

the

plane.
to

prevent

an

upward

or

to

the

intensityrequired,for
inattention

waste
a

much
to

as

of

power

downward

stud

cone

api)roachinga right angle

results from

the

as

to

positionof upright shaft

fabric

picking strap (where

same

loom,
times

2^

fixes the

picking arm

energy
o^

r^

(Fig.174) is

of

than

more

pick when

lbs. per
r

neglected.

the width

is used

arm

when

is

length of picking arm

determined
exceed

23

32*2

numerical

1184.

jr^r^

16

in swells

stored up

"

=-z

g'^

gives

acceleration

-/=

which

-"

"

b at

direction, it should
an

angle

possible consistent
of the

harshness

this matter.

as

nearly

with

of these

the

picks

MECHANISM

302

and

tappet angles equal those

the

10"

will be

10"

below

and

the shuttle

cranks

is the

back

will be

at

back

upright shaft, d

which

when

moves

employed

to

tighten

actual

the

cone

the

into

parts in the

down

tappet J, and
Draw

make

an

of

angle of

into

"

namely,

outward

by

having
line

inner

similar

the

and

touches
outer

rule, but

remaining 7|^"

To

edges
the

cone

of

periphery
/

can

diameter

be

of

inside

touch

to

of

Let

line

each

circle

line of
each

nose

arcs

of

pushed

round

d^ where

e,

gential
tan-

point

it is

as

on

divided

been

a, 9 describe

obtained
cone

e.

number

same

draw

cone

find the centre

the

diculars
perpen-

latter

angle has

describe
of

drop

the

a, 1 to

ment
move-

5, in the

through point

radia

time

begin with

say

the

point

that

the

as

"

the

each

of

part of

22J" of

parts

it into

it.

tappet disc is

centre

pass

in

it to the

will

we

divide

cone

centre

equal to

tappet 5.

that

the

tangentiallines.

tappet, and

diameter

line Ifion
a

the

cut

to

the

with

represent the

intersection

moved

the

of

divide

Through

8.

that

in rotation

has

Continue

e.

30" and

plane

circular

As

circle g from

circle ^, then

to

sectional view

the

Divide

9 ; then

equal,that

all

parts, but

40".

number

radiating from

line

with

pick.

line

describe

the

when

horizontal

unimportant,

any

cut

completed,

picking tappet:

proportions of 3, 2, 1, and

to

point, or

centre

picking strap, and

the

proportionsof 1, 3, 5, 7,
into

the

nose

say

"

this is

deliveryof

in

slay

cranks

tappet h is pressing upon

it when

its traverse

accomplish

of

show

of

to

is

pick

of

in contact

extremity

taken

and

cone,

nose

lines

dotted

the

near

construction

lines represent d

5, and

the

that

shaft, h the picking tappet,

bottom

of the

Solid

80" above

when

or

the

given above,

part

centres.

the

shows

centres

their

on

175

Fig.
a

the

are

40"

22^" + 7|^"

VING

WEA

OF

each

it touches

/, trace

circle.

The

by following a
must

be

taken

'

!i !

i;

1,1/;/ 1.^

"

Fig.

175.

MECHANISM

304

where

that

it touches

WEA

OF

VING

the

of

portion

part

face

tappet

be

to

drawn.
It will doubtless
is

observed

be

slightlyinaccurate,owing

diameter
them

of circle to

will

be

given,

represent the

described.

But

undue

the

if it is

tappet, take

shown, and
each

idea

shuttle

is

about

-^'

in

construct

of

45"

farther

from

end.

Some

outer

of

extent

^V

on

assigned is

reason

plane

elevates

the

shuttle,and

latter to rise from

board

and

loom, and
box

if

the

curved

so

and

doing

Also

reed

in

assist

moving

in

been

reached,

and

and

by

that

backward
time

race

of

space,

than

at

the

reed

to

the

an

inclined

tendency

that

The

forward

end

in the

slopingrace

reducing

shuttle

to

direction
much

to

of loom.

further

flyingout by permitting the

is

the

any

of

centre

inner

depressesthe

board.

race

that

spindle is higher,

width

chances

downward

given

of reed

bow

reduces

round

others

picker in travellingup

Still,

shape

and

the

also

so

shown.

are

box

at

to

eight points

proper

centre

if the

be

inaccuracy is

fall is

and

back

end

rear

are

adopted

the

at

the

above-named

that

by

weavers

loom-makers
the

shaft

geometricallycorrect

cone

fly out

to

the

tact
con-

circle

true

one

been

the

circles

the shuttle box

a

has

ellipseof

an

is less liable

in

practical account.

no

prevalent amongst

board, between

to

of

dimensions

construct

making

cone

tappet

because

con*esponding point where

An

and

be

to

desirable

the

part of

and

followed

complication,also

thought

of

figures should
places elliptical

plan

exceedingly slight as

uniform

one

instead

the

stud

already traced

of

use

cone

with

cone

other

line

again, that only

and

when

all

parallel; at
avoid

tappet

the

the

to

all diflPer in accordance

with

of

that

the

continue
until

of its energy

the

has

expended.

Advocates

of this

plan point

to

under-picked

looms

as

PICKING

its

demonstrating

of the

movement

has

tendency

end

rear

of

utility,for
down

to press

of

thus

liable to

admittedly more

certain amount

picks,a

impart
As

shuttles

than

until

under-pick,and

experiments have

made, the questionmust

the

domains

of pure

tention.
conmore

reliable

remain

in

theory.

Picking

Positive

system of positivepickingpreceded that of negative

The

picking by
attempts
and

over-

the

to

in

are

the

in

seen

rapidlydeveloped force
been

the

looms

out

solelydue

be

may

an

box,

direction

of these

is
plausibility

Still the difference

of

front

upward

an

most

throw

of

the

near

circular

the

picks

picker,together with

its

shuttle.

slot

in

when

pickingarm,

shuttle,and

front

the

to

305

many

first made

were

has

since

been

to

the

to

days

automatic

by

weave

favourite

each

of

men

back

; it dates

years

machinery,

with

problem

succeeding generation.

little real advancement

has

made

been

when

genious
in-

many

less,
Neverthe-

for

ordinary

weaving.
The
than

extensivelyused

most

small-ware

looms

certainlycontains
than

or

with

met

the

staunch

is

from

disc

the

Link

United

States.

is illustrated

turned

by

driving shaft

; it

6 to
is

gives

the

in

Figs. 176

motion
a

and

by

slotted

framing and
X

has

it is steadily
still,

side shaft

slidingblock

pivoted to

in

defective

Englishmen, it

of

country

; it

1876

complicated

through

in this

in the

crank

rod
c.

whether

conservatism

little favour

Lyall'smechanism

is less

good points,and

many

making headway

by Lyall in

introduced

negative picks,but

some

details

was

of this class for other

motion

and

bevel
means

177
wheels
of

necting
con-

vibrating arm

attached

to

the

MECHANISM

3o6

eliding block
the

Blot

carries

as

the
at

pinion

with

arm

the

ends

opposite

also

e,
of

which

moves

wheels

the

ends

joumalled inj,
with

in

run

of

177, numbered

move

ita

band

shuttle

whence

it

slay i,

rack

is

and

led

e,

the

former

f, which

rotates

is wound

round

sheaves

over

finally connected
wheels

four

upon

down

extremity

upper

band

and

up

wheel

curved

1, 2.
so

1, 2.

of

wheels

pairs

carriagej,

that

The

along by carriage /
insides

At
a

of

to

on

A,
to

bed

in

bottom.

slay

near

and

of

periphery,

The

revolves.

teeth

the

latter

OBcillatee.

carriage j,

the

causes

crank

as

engages
e

it

WEAVING

OF

short

on

of

two

Wheels

3, 4

they

touch

shuttle

Shuttle

3, 4, and

horizontal

are

project
and

rests

wheels

top

which

are

upon

above

Fig.

and

turned
and

7, 8

fixed

in

seen

5, 6 press

wheels

pins

by
is

are

tact
con-

drawn

against
are

only

the
in

PICKERS

XI

with

touch

This

/.
and

and

in

arrows

roll

to

is

warp

The
the

of

centre

the

the

until

shuttle

in the

slidingblock

of those

in

causes

is

the

wheels
of

movement

with

the

to

opposite
to crank

first is due

of rack

/, the

block

of

c, and

place,as
is

when

move

the second

the

until

for

to

equals
takes
arm

that

of

place up

from

moves

pushed by

link d

the

its

centre

pin, then
next

either

centre.

extremity

the

nearer

greater velocityis developed by

PART

slowly,

move

crank
to

pin

immediately

top

or

passing
the

instant

an

bottom

is

pin begins to

the

at

crank

of rest ; but

state

passed

decrease

second

to

is in

speed

the

arm

lateral

is reached

centre, where

velocityalmost

corresponding
In

velocity.

velocity is correspondingly

its

pause

two

back

or

centres

increases

forward

begins

its front

and

by

of link d.

round

one

indicated

surface

connecting pin of slidingblock, and

action
The

carriage

to

constantlyacceleratingpace

fabric, whence

arises from

This

and

given

same

place

impossible.

successivelyfor

threads

at

moves

diminished

its

rail

precluded.
shuttle

side.

in

direction

the

them, therefore

over

down

be

to

all with

Fig. 177, and

of bevelled

carriagebecomes
in the

revolve

3, 4 lift the warp

Wheels

5, 6

the

left motion

to

wheels

shuttle,the

shuttle

the

holds

right

surface

the under

gettingoff

or

Assuming
the

along

arrangement

flyingout

and

roll

307

so

fulcrum

doing.

XI

PICKERS

The
of

picker

is

more

severely taxed

loom, especiallywhen

it receives

than

the

any

other

part

shuttle, for the

MECHANISM

308
blow

given with

is

surface.

even

minute, it is
of

not

according to
and

made

the

equal

lb.

the

requirements,

of

mill.

materials

and

forms

per
tear

weaving

the loom-maker

fancy, of

or

and

wear

in

of expense

an

picks

200

at

that

of

blow

an

over

weight falling 3

run

at

variety

that

to

part

distributed

not

commonly
item

in

VING

estimated

wondered

be

serious

are

is

looms

to

WE

point and

been

shuttle

pickers form
Pickers

has

these

as

steel

It

ordinary calico
feet ; and

OF

manufacturer.
The

principalmaterials
brass, but

wood, iron, and

To

general use.

most

good quality and

should

ounce

used

of

the first named

be

is in

of real service
A

equal weight.

be exceeded

not

bufifalo-hide,leather,

are

for

should

they

variation

make

one

far the

by

be

of

of

an

and

loom

of

of

fabric.
Picker

are

processes
which
to

follows

processes

or

punched,

manufacturer,

When

they

new

down

coiled

and

but

to

contain

uniform

inside

are

in

afterwards

condition

by

are

to

ordinarily

"

pressing, by

shape; they

drilled,in which

and

dimensions

made

be

in water

rounded, notched, punched,

be

shaping,
usable

skins

the

weight equalised by adding

to

are

to

shaved

the

article is obtained,

stripsof

picker

numerous

namely, drilling,inserting

"

riveting,roughly
machinery, into

into

rollers and

strips which

narrow

Steeping

"

then

J" by T'O"; they are

thickness, matched,

finished

the size of

passed through

the

separate industry, and

them, cutting them

correspond with
3

requisitebefore

brieflyas

are

soften

about

is

making

no

moisture

they

and

are

lowing
fol-

staple,

powerful
slotted,
sent

are

ready

means

the

for

more

or

to
use.

less

pulpy.
They

should

current

be dried
of

in

moderately

place where
warm

air

there
for

six

is

weeks

stant
conor

MECHANISM

3IO

mannfactiirers, but
tanned

bands

The
to

8" to

9*

long by

and

1' to

to

round

the

ring

leather

J' wide

is

both

oak

or

of

with

piece,and

"

bent
down

inserted

wooden

made

holes

picking

and

across

sewn

the

side

long, is

y^ to f apart,

of

tab

the

for the

24'

to

by pressing a

pair

ends

the

arm,

holes

of

brought together,

are

latter,23"

secured

plug, through

"

applying

end

One

ends

the

of

pushed through

near

; the

groove

methods

the
looms

is made

side,punched

the slotted

through

pass

of

narrow

picker ;

slit of about

band

looms, green

of

majority

few

pick on

cone

top slots of

part

found.

are

and

each

the

on

following are

bands

WEAVING

OP

to

into

peg,

or

facilitate

length adjustment
method

the

to

with

double

using a

longitudinal incision
in the

fittingit
slit and

the

previous arrangement,

short

until

pulled

slotted tab

on

pieceof stringtied
holds

arm,

Short

wide,

it in

be

also slotted

long, that
front

and

wire

is slit

is threaded

fast

by

the

Single bands,
near
comes

the
out

the band,

require a
the

the

centre,

and

through
as

in

passed through

are

with

fastened

immediately

the

double

peg.

below

the

to

end

on

50*

13"

passed through

the

picker top;

which

12"

other

the

made

arm.

long, have

end, which

band,

tight,and

slit,drawn

the

; it is

groove

to

of

picker,after

the

and

it is sewn,

it in the

end, then

in the

tab, 9" long by If

where

arm,

upper

one

tab

25"

lower
at

long,

level,then,

ends

round

through

to

peg

27"

to

is drawn

are

picker and

near

top grooves

end

ends

staple to keep

receive

to

23"
its

end

one

both

preferred

near

the

round

turned

with

riveted

both

is often

position.

single bands

to

that

made

ring groove,

the

band

strap from

foregoing requires a
a

after

of

goes
a

in

piece

one

at

hole
the

punched
front

of leather

and

pushed

PICKERS

XI

into

the hole

prevents the band

The

free

is

end

into the arm,

position. A

it in

the

the band
band

in its

slit

slit to
bands

ones

break

that

near

band

at

both

ends

in

and

simple

and

Crook
form

attached

in

leather

end

wire

pin,

plug

to

connect

find

to

of

bands

of

case

hole

the

where

generally

long

fresh

from

than

bands

that

the

using long

is smaller

reason

holds

and

groove

habit

the

the

screwed

passed through

the

one

punched,
and

arm

again

before.

as

Strap

Check

for

contrivance

It

rebounding.

1845, and

is

assistingswells
invented

was

in

now

quick-running looms,

to

and

holes to retain

unusual

away,

effective

Eccles

of

unwound

shuttles

preventing

ring

in

in

cut

The

is

the

other

for the

arm

strip of leather

consumption

be

can

the

of

secured

the

of the

one

means

Those

picker, and

part

portion

no

the

employed,

are

damaged

by

them.

couple
contend

short

is

picker,and

the

near

Instead

place.

picker,it

and

of

gap

then

on,

of holes

the

to

up

all is wound

stapleor

the

bridges

arm

is taken

through

goes
wire

indefinite number

an

; it

apart

spirallyuntil

round

driven

to

"

working.

when

slippingout

provided with

approximately f
twisted

311

by

slightlymodified

either fast

with

or

loose reeds.
It is

and

of

merely

equal length

screwed

the

to

sliding motion
of leather
two

leather

c,

centre

of

traverse.

6"

long

and

front

J" long by

1"

guides, that
Each

IJ"

to

a, which

of
\

both

and

permit

has

apart,

is secured

taibs have

thick

to

to

hole

piece
the

allow

short

are

of

it between

upon

4"

guides

its centre

about

1" wide

Four

support

deep, nailed
are

end
wide

at

(Fig.178), about

loom.

the

with

slay
in

strap

tab

3J"
dy

punched

MECHANISM

312

end

one

near

to

receive
of

piece
may

of

be

strap
wire,

sewn

be

strap

tightena

Two

piecesof
punched

place

until

the

leather

both

at

of

until
the

of

front

If

spindle plate.
removed
no

case

shuttles

the

and
must

will

pin broken,

called

ends,

too

ready

about

ready

1" from

for

end

is

other

the

work

be

weak,

strike

to

box

by

end.

5"

long,

pushed

on

behind

goes

the

box

off,bobbin
that

apparent
or

be

can

satisfactorily.In

knocked

be

but

178.

allowed

cops

all

centres

guards,\\' broad
one

means

time,

same

buckle

the bottom

strap will work

it will

strong, the swells

is

upon

by

properly adjusted piece c

are

check

rebound,

the loom

then

enough

pickers,and

the

tab, and

wide

tabs,

behind
at

picker is

picker be

and

slottingthe

cranks

freelj'^

pass

is fastened

position a

spindles

Fig.

spindle in

end

other

placed

the

adjusted

and

in

are

upon

to

PART

each, for either provides

Tabs

usual

VING

the

at

instead

upon

put

WE

picking spindle to

When

a.

or

is not

it is then

the

slot is made

adjustment.

should

are

allow

to

through, and

OF

check

the

or

end,

or

shuttle

pick

is too

strap is imperfectly

adjusted.
Buffers

Buffers

are

spindlestud

required
they

to

consist

keep
of

three

picker
or

leather, 6" long by \" wide, doubled

and
together,

then

riveted

with

wire

to

four

from

strikinga

thicknesses

bring

all the

of

ends

staple,but loops are

SWIVEL'

XII

left
is

large enough

provided

one

end

is

pushed

of

for the
their

near

which
into

WE

spindlesto

313

buffer

the

to

slot

and

through.

pass

extremities, each

is bolted

VING

receive

to

fastened

by

strap,

the

slay front,

slot

other
of

piece

straight wire.
Other
and
to

buffers consist

punched
the

receive

to

hole

drilled

the

spindle,the

formed

the

of

at

free

one

extremity,

end

is screwed

closelycoiled strap, with

the

all

through

which

enter, after
the

strap doubled

slayfront.

Others, again, are

a

of

coils for

the

is made

straight end

spindle to
secure

upon

slay.
PART

XII

SWIVEL

Swivel-weaving
that

lappets stand
small

from

that

detached

piece.

stands

in

the

relation

same

Both

shedding.

to

are

continuous

stripefigures,with

composing

other
be

figures may
Both

afford

and

-WEAVING

diapered

give somewhat
of

means

figuring material

is

intended

only

where

used

or

surface

small
of

the

embroidery,

of

the appearance

duce
pro-

differing

fabric,

the

over

preventing waste,

to

material

the

parts of

picking

to

for the

that

reason

figures

to

are

be

made.
If

the two

variety
swivels
for

of

are

is driven

detail,and

of

economical

they

are

compared

general

as

production,
;

run

for
at

above

swivel
a

slow

pick

the

latter

looms

ground

beauty
of

but

when

is found

each
weft

pick
; hence

of

effect,

workmanship,
compared

to

costly and

are

speed, and
of

to

excellence

vastlysuperior to lappets;

are

cost

systems

of

be

more

elaborate

swivel

the

weft

length of

MECHANISM

314

fabric

is

produced

WEAVING

OF

determined

part

the

solely by

of

number

ground picks inserted.

of

Swivels

have

been

twenty

years,

but

of shuttles

the

manipulate them,

and

loom

Owing

if

considerablyincreased,

and

the

sary
neces-

detectors

of

break, the weaver's

to

work

of the

frequent stoppages

consists

Swivel-weaving
in

ordinary loom
of the

at

warp

which

the

shall

and

the

gives

be thus
In

is

loom

to

lowered

the

The

remain

thus

can

cam,

by simply leaving cards

govern
be

it,and

lowered

Jacquard

picking

motion

moved, and

to

in
is
out
cause

shuttles

all the
been

twill

the

of

ment
attach-

laterally

other

unsightly

of

they

arrangements.

fitted

front

they

figure. Or

of

are

action

in

movable

slay,which
of

is

Jacquard,

spiralsprings.

stationaryfor

length of

where

with

the

employed
action

long

shuttle

their former

between

any

they

face

the

by suitablyperforatingcards

also

space

levers, rods, and

blank

unison

out

completed, so

and

indirect

an

line of spots prevents

to

by

length of

an

under

moved

is,however,

shuttles

attached

that

the

equal to

to

held

be

can

always be

must

There

form

operating through
frame

there

equal distribution

an

shuttles

board, and

spots has

second

moved

frame

and

raised

they

moving

power-looms, swivel

carrying

that

positionsexactlymidway

situations, then

may

for
of

ribbon

race

1" to 5".

first line

occupy

rows,

the

at least

looms

most

on

adding

manner

upon

spot

from

varies

in

pleasure,but

spot and

between

after

such

dropped

way,

lifted

The

to

of mechanism

absence

duced
pro-

entailed.

are

can

large addition

increase
the

upwards

large extent,

the

to

figuringthreads

for

power-looms

still,to

are

in use,

number

stop

in

they

hand-looms.

on

to

made

racks

to

formation
throw

whenever
to

drive

of

swivels
the

needles

the

the

small

time

frame
shed.

ordinary
are

to

be

shuttles.

SWIVEL'

XII

All
of

should

used

cams

slidingon

of

their

the

such

at

the

looselyfitted

is

the latter is
end
in

is bent

bobbin

is assisted

in

rings

situated

being

secured

the

weft
an

thin

tendency

the shuttle

at

eye

which

spiralthat

sleeve,

with

four

spiral,and

fits

certain

is

weft

lifted, and

bobbin, which
end

spindle,one
the

held

unwinding
the

take

to

round

eye, each

the

slack

edges

both

in

shuttle ;

weft, and

of

the

results

from

hole is drilled

the

through

flat

the

its

end

one

weft

The

is drawn

away

weft

immediately
force

to

there

wind

Shuttles

is

four

uncoil

the

to

as

weft

sufficient

five inches.

supported
and

spiral,

spring,but

slack,the spring exerts

vertically.

employed,

to

bobbin

great advantage, for

tendency

sometimes

sometimes

singlerow

becomes

back
are

is

its

the

over

is,in turn, lightlypressed by the flat springs. The

method

of

opposite end.

springs, goes

collar.

of

employment

receive

to

collar fitted to

tightlyupon

gives this

so

figures.

is led

rings,it

it

glass

two

shuttle

up

the

freely;

by

fixed

slot

against the

too

tension
of

of

shuttle,the other

presser

even

protruding

however,

the

hence, during

centre.

has

apart that

spiralspring

perfecttension

more

spindle,in

thin

spring

threading weft through

After

loops forming

prevent

an

to

have

pressed tightlyinto

opposite sides

on

out

fabrics

frame

hole inside

maintaining

springs have

the

into

prevents

centre

put in and

many

wire

right angles,and

at

for

take

to

movable

upon

pushed

be

can

distances

out

opposite edge.

the

they

capable

inoperative.

are

is hollowed

shuttle

be

clutch, or

parts, the

last-named

all its connections

315

ground weft;

portions only contain

of

by

that

so

VING

shedding motion,

spots arranged

weaving

driven

be

key-way,

by

gear

WE

If

their

in

they

portionsof

are

the

frame

zontally,
hori-

horizontal, a
frame

between

MECHANISM

3i6
shuttles

the

rack

the

when
shuttle

is

is

in

length

pinions by
reed

that

be

to

their

holders

must

rack

is

shuttles

lower

real

into

singleline
Pearson's

rack

shuttles

putting

the

for

; but

for

will be
obvious

one.

through

Jacquard

to

means

ever
when-

action

the

the

and

for the

figure
the

ground
sheds

two

open

"

for

one

upper

the

whether

questionable

one,

the

on

stop swivelling. Figuring

necessary

it is

right, all

upright shaft, and

ground weft,

lifted

across

simultaneously with

imaginary

an

reach

they

of

all

to

by

out

every

given

It is therefore

rack

to

it becomes

cases

motion

in number

an

the

teeth,

immediately
of

the

of

the

to

moves

holders

links, and

to

lip

near

top
is

each
a

leather

the

Motion

positions.

breakages ; if,on
could

holder
or

upon

direction

necessary

one

or

numerous

gain

great strain put upon

undoubtedly

will

cause

hand, the inventor's

other

be

realised, the

production

of

shuttles, would

be doubled

of

loom, with

(see Howarth

and

Jacquard, Fig. 92).

shuttles

When
be

placed one

or

five

each

driven

for

threads

few

aim

long

of

figuringmaterial
is

If the

occasionallymove

In such

the

length,and

metal

pinions.

two

exceed

it becomes

one.

secured

warp

of

hack

The

its entire

usually governed by

provided

are

and

to

former

series

cam,

board.

rack, with

lifted

for

room

similarly shaped

by reversing the

restored

leave

part

vibrating rack, long enough

will

left,and

race

with

space.

shuttles

the

on

frame.

shuttle, gears

the

to

fit into

to

of the

equal

away

grooved throughout

is formed
bottom

cut

are

WEAVING

OF

behind

colours

figure.

which

latter

are

are

may
All

four
supported vertically,

the other, and,

be

shuttles

separate groove
also

employed

grooved

are

is cut
and

as

in

consequence,

the

receive

flanged,and

four

development

suspended
to

five may

or

from

frames, in

every

racks

of

are

line ; the

secured

WEAVING

OF

MECHANISM

3i8

XIII

PART

WARP-

box, the

proper
a

reed

fast

loom

the warp,
In

doing damage.

this

its

shuttle

out
with-

revolve

cranks

loose

case,

reach

whereby

the

and

fails to

instantlystopped by

be

provision made

or

amongst

shuttle

either

must

motion,

remain

may

whatever,

cause

LOOSE

MOTIONS

REED

any

AND

FAST

OR

PROTECTORS,

If, from

part

reed

is

motii^n

used.
All

looms

which,

fast reed

in

shed, and

also

wooden

many

the

latter

and

ones

rapidly wear
each

portions from

away

of

with

This

of

is in the

shuttle

after

rebounding

ones,

by Messrs.

iron,

it becomes
cut

to

or

away
back

again bring them

to

long

wear,

of

with, although

met

shoulder, and

formed

simple

and

also

obliquityof

will the

recently introduced

be

new

swells, but

preventing

diminishing at

at the

in order

end

wooden

of

method

swells,

purpose

generallymade

are

still to

are

required shape.

defects

from

shuttle

180)

replace them

to

necessary

their

twofold

when

broken

stopping a

(Figs.179

but

to

of

being

the

serve

called

levers

box.

entering a
Swells

motions,

from

protectingwarp

curved

with

provided

are

and
of

chief

of the

one

satisfactory

increasing or
been

their surfaces, has

Collier,Evans,

and

Riley

of Farnworth.
The
has

and
rear

wood

invention

coating

at cZ a

end
to

in

h of

screw

thin

is

Fig. 180,

steel

set

At
screw

where

firmly secured

passed through

position.

receive

in

is shown

hole

/, that

swell front
upon

it at

slot in 6 to hold
is bored

is retained

through
in

c,

the
the

position

WARP-PROTECTORS

xin

by

plate

The

end

second

nut

inside
size
elastic

of

of
of

affixed

/
A

the

on

for

the

purpose

shoulder

can

for

back

swell
the

projects beyond

plate h, hence

cushion

319

of

the

wood

and

or

carries

the

unscrewing /

the

regulated ;

shuttle

strike

to

lock-nut.

against

impinging

by screwing
be

and

also

provides
against

an

MECHANISM

320

OF

WE

VING

part

"

is

swell

hinged

(exceptin

few

curved

face

pushed

forward

the

upon
the
c

swords

set-screwed

as

of,and

portion

wheel

by

an

loom

cushion

drag

in contact

to

attached

box

spiral,or

to

brake

that

rests

upon

presses

spring,and

flat

blades

by

end

forward

the

on

forward

wheel, and

it.

to

/, known

buflFer

to

levers

has

is struck

its

between

full force

and
to

this is done

"

other

through
the

when

/
carry

fly

ment
move-

assists

place

setting-onhandle
frog recedes

h
from

arm

its

dovetail

to

avoid

to

aid, they

breakages

the

^'iolent

to

stop

forward

when

the

the

blow

to

end
loom

and

the

bring
be

of

shocks

of

impact

defect
the

is

motion;
arm

come
over-

frogs /,

immediately
is in

stant
con-

exerting its

was

of

of blade

each

would

This

one

into

slipping;

could

dri^dng strap

slay forward.

the

attaching an
it to

shaped

stand, but

sudden

occurrence,

the

from

the

upon

position,without

shaping

that

manner

Below

welded

",

and

frogs /are

and

when

by

of

path

is connected

in such

arm,

it.

is shown

blades

shoulder

^,

is

speedily.

loom

that

the

framing,

(Fig..179), and

the loom, and

is absent

frog /

/ puts

Blades

in

the

looms

of

other

of

sketch,

flattened

its

bearings, preferably fixed

across

directly in

rubber

many

the

and

shuttle

against a

in

; it extends

upon,

whenever

in

box

reversed),and

is

shuttle

resting behind

in the

but,

of

pin

box

works

frog,is provided with

lever

d
;

slaybottom

In front

by

the

inside

protrudes

end

outer

where

looms

oscillatingrod

an

the

near

h,

and

behind
so,

as

partakes

WARP-PROTECTORS

XIII

of

similar

pushes

moyement,

notch, and

the

321

handle

is thrown

driving strap

of

out

the

upon

its

loose

pulley.
Either

holding blade

in

spring hooked
fastened
So

spring / presses

flat

to

long

in motion

swell

back
and

reach

and

true

nothing

free

to
are

end

the

forward

moves

there is

tendency

As

above

found

if

there

is

above

the

but

blades

frogs, for

bend

be

then
no

or

up

for

them

the

upon

have

; but

back

tinues
con-

does

swell a,

all

not

quently
conse-

points requiring

rod

tendency

to

able

clear away

rod

should

swords, and

to

the

The
at

one

the

slay

shuttle

as
are

in

the

slay

too

long,

frogs before

they ought

be

not

fixed

its best
in

sustains

to rise

positionis

contact

the

the

to

with

shock, and

but

if

rotate

is

proportionateto

of

impact

twist;

keep

threads

when

centre

fingerc.

swells.

leave

to

the

upon

shuttle is full in its box.

part of the

of

to

strike

horizontal

are

pull

stop motion

be

must

parts

if the blades
to

frogs,its tendency

break

shuttle

shape

breaking

frogswhen

the

elevation, and

if

long enough

of

previouslystated,a

slay bottom,

its

the

and

better

are

to lift them

shuttle has time

about

two

beat

to

loom

rod d to oscillate

causes

that

looms

fear

without

warp

size

some

should

"

end

box, it pushes

intended, the

the

for

twisting,

enters

length, position,and

only,although

from

its lower

slay.

push

condition
as

blades, together with

"

spiral

stopped.

move

blades,or blade,

has

/, but

to

top of

properlythe

moving

clear of

primary

attention

most

is
is

the

Beyond

of

front

loom

the

is

finger c, the latter

there

box

the

upon

for, as the former

and

the

carry

bolted

shuttle

as

side of

under

the

bracket

the

strikingposition,or

upon

to assist in

againstfingerc

energy

rod

centre

tends

is

to

OF

MECHANISM

322

If

the

springs upon

blades

will

require driving with

and

swells result, together with

Worn

and

each

continue

best

the

cause

loom

to

great strain

puts

rigidityof
of

upon

reed

the

reed

by

if

pushing

the

loom

loose

where

in action

loom,

and

but

it for

and
in

Bullough

by

remedied

most

stop rod, and

is

the

the

duction
pro-

1842, and

also

the

evils

of

extensively used
loom

until the

of its notch

out

driving strap

is

in

Kenworthy

aid

its

By

setting-onhandle

parts of

reed, with

slay cap 5, the

swing

bottom

is

upon,

rib of

is marked

rod
oscillating
with

additional

reed

loose

the

is

in

of which
an

stationary.

gets trapped in the warp

angle iron extending

the

is harsh

weak

Looms

looms.

shuttle

running

groove
to

it should

be

can

by simply
and

leaving
the

entirelyupon

pulley.

The

medium

be

parts of

Eeed

the

of

use

and

stopped
the

it should

motion

later inventors,

light

some
trouble-

are

off when

especiallyrecommends

greatly improved

attending the

power.

fabrics.

heavy

many

on

boxes

contrivance, patented by Hornby

1834,

shuttles

worn

blades, frogs,and

many

Loose

wide

shuttle

of motive

knock

to

when

run

strong,

waste

worn

as

part

force, and

loom

fast

too

shuttles,and

motion, just

in

springs allow
At

all

VING

are

increased

swells,narrow

WE

arm

the
with

rod

of

bar

c, and

fast

adjusting screw

of
of

into

pivot for
flat

or

of

pressed against

series

similar

Fig. 181,

pushed
sort

and

of

they support

stop

loom

action

occupying

an

forming

the

in

rib

strip of wood,

by the

shown

are

its upper

groove

across

d
e,

motion

are

of

one

arms,

fixed

upon

positionand
reed

loom.

is also secured

responding
cor-

An
to

WARP-PROTECTORS

XIII

rod

and

g,

sword

of the

keyed

are

carried

against the

presses
pressure

the

the

Fio.

are
arm

rigidlyby

held

i is also

point
normal
surface

of

keyed

starting handle

positionthe point
of

buffer

h bolted
e

j;

their

faces

of

or

to

frogs;
the

the

latter

framing.

An

exactlyopposite the working

but

of i must

upon

lower

or

upper

heaters

brackets
rod

opposite ends

181.

called

upon

curved

Two

a.

slay

forward, have

slay moves

against

wedge-shaped pieces

reed

upon

of

rear

equidistantfrom

upon

slay; these, as
ends

outer

screw

regulate the

to

levers

its

323

j.

when

reed

be below
Another

the
arm

is

in

its

corrugated
I is fixed

MECHANISM

324

rod

upon

the

outside

into

steady

the

perform

of

moves

one

/,m

rod

bolted

the

to

hold

reed

spiralsprings

apart

are

friction
anti-

an

slay falls back,

is to

and

and

carries

spring m

across,

on

tart

the

parts /, m

office when

same

bent

function

hooks,

two

upon

with

shuttle

as

VI NG

framing, which

end

contact

The

framing.

WE

extremity, so that,as

roller at its
/ is taken

OF

the

is stretched

other

the

on

slay

sword.

must

is held

reed

The

should

Fingers /

at

the

cranks

the

If

be

so, in

case

sufficient

be

and

bars

be

carried

againstbuffer

to

of bar
that
the
But

concussion.

causing

the

sensitive

enough

to

in

rebounding

force

to

a,

of

ver

po

there

should

and

frogs ^,

resistance

reed

oscillate,fingers /

to

n^

to

weft.

back

and

i to abut

arm

frogs combine

pull of springsn

to remove

from

the reed

pushes the setting-onhandle

loom

the

Swells

rod

fingersand

arm

making
the

the

only

slope of frog ^,

and

in

damage

the

to

fingers/

springs

is

brought

loose

reed

reed
throw

to

stand

is not

heavy fabrics,owing

of

blow

smart

contact

reed

tightlyupon

2" between

open

that

weight

notch, and

in

are

P^st

h
seen

instant

fabric

to

stops in the shed, the warp

upper

It is thus

at the

its

the

%"

from

fallingback

from

about

^, thus
to

give a

reed

shuttle

will

the

of

and

bear

portion

trapped.

the top centres,

on

the

space

and

are

springs % keeps
then

should

vibration

prevent any

is

and

reed

when

bar

time

same

shuttle

its lower

but

up,

underneath,

be

point of frogs g

the

beat

to

freelyif

back

move

firm

to

the

the

reed

to

violent
the

difficulties

firm
sufficiently
out

without

suitable

to

before

beat
a

of

out

duction
pro-

enced
experi-

up,

and

shuttle

can

warp.
a

loose

out

of

reed
its

motion

box, and

prevent
to

some

shuttle

extent

froni

assist

in

MECHANISM

326
is

than

more

and

in

acts

OF

half-way in
conjunction

its

WE

VING

part

box, the spring gives way

with

at

d.

PART

XIV

SHUTTLE-GUAKDS

Some
shuttles

from

the

upon
the

will

simple trustworthy appliance that

is still

weaver

fact that

without

flying out

labour

entailing more

desideratum, notwithstanding

large variety

prevent

of

apparatus is

the

before

now

manufacturing public professedlyfor attainingthe objects

named

above.

Few

flyingout,
latter

but

evil is

granted that
of

will

guards

them

absolutely prevent
of them

most

to

more

by beating up,

would

largely increased,

be

brackets, and
the

people most

use

every

few

become
be

loose and

pass

Guards

the

are

appear

to

metal

meet

latter
of

should
three

plates,4"

most
to

them

5"

the

secured

if

more

in

use

common,

are

will

order

in

brackets
A

broad

classes

heavy

favour.

long by

2"

guard

to

where

parts

and

work

They

or

slay by

bolts
move

firm.

namely,

"

break

the

to

and

cap,

be

For

automatic.

with

be

light flimsy

as

attention.

constant

entirelythrough

and

two

require

be

the

must

number

slay cap

work,

should

bearings

the

keeping

weeks'

even

long

so

the

shocks

severe

the

as

for after
prevent their application,

to

reallyserviceable

that
in

or

but

in

the

probable

into

concerned

endeavour

months',

it is

driven

screws

former, it

withstand

to

occasioned

the

serviceable; and

they are

constructed

were

than

from

; and

prevent flyingup

be feared

to this extent

shuttle

automatic,
rigid, semi-

the

first-named

consist

broad, both

of at least

of which

SHUTTLE-GUARDS

XIV

bolted

are

and

through cap

support oppositeends
extends

that

2^"
of

to

3" above

the

reed.

brackets
a

If

the weaver's

out

the

kind
bolted
box.
the

Such
cap

also

are

in

his labour

having

Semi-automatic
detail

Hall

attach

they
of

used

are

iron, to

of

in the
and

when
is

by

sufficient

before

not

in

any

catching

safetyhe

loses

shuttles.
varied

the

bar

is in

to

as

which

brackets

When

they
but

made

working

the

nut.

Each

entering

tapered pin

goes

back

chamber,

pin

is

brought

the

of

will

warp

into

bar

rests

upon

interfere

with

the

he must

cesses
re-

inside

of

pressure

in chambered

situated

each

hole at the

the loom

to

over

spiralspring is pressed into

way

shuttle

swivellingguard bar,

any

previouslydescribed,

as

in.

shank

working position the

and

and

to

turn

bear

it,and

bar

the
weaver

upon

and

slay cap,
again.

this

drawing

When

; but

is

back

slide

the reed.

it down

and

therefore

accomplished by grasping the guard

forward

of

by forcingit againstfixed stops, and

brackets
the

flying

each

changing

of two

swords,

move

in

It

plate is

iron

ensure

numerous,

use

and

guide

no

inwards

when

tapering pins

two

spring,through
secured

and

it is locked

rear

recess,

make

with

warp.

reed

to

gains

are

bearings for

as

iV" round

the

Sons

slay cap

to

position
to

guards

"

is

to bend

increased

seriouslyinterferes

entrance

weaver

Such

stays.

as

spoon-shaped,to

what

flyingshuttle, but

intermediate

additional

the

made

plates are

serve

there

an

near

2^' in front

one,

leaving the

from

fabric,for

2" to

repair broken

and

see

slay front

they

to

points, unless

the

on

it

of from

height

from

to

cap

in diameter

to

at

wide

simple,but

of

edges
these

at

the

upon

shuttle

is

brackets

platesor

xV'

course

board, and
loom

freedom

prevent

at

shuttle's

the

and

is firm

; these

fixed rod

race

bolted

are

guard

cannot

the

sword

of

the

over

327

not

and
before

The

it
in

does
starting
re-

only

rlown

turn

motion.
1

"

brood

the

rocd

"

thick

to front

slay cap

hirigoic

at
!

iteelf in

blade

guard

by J

JNUIN (jut

lock

The

3" from
to

and

the

that

2j"

that

at

Blade

iinil friMtoriod to

bracket

MtDjiimd to repair
llio

to

guard plato is

warp,

turned

lock
"
d
up

reed

which

blade

by

bolt.

is lifted
to

a.

the

by
cap

secured

are

and

groove
to

is made

by

with

sliding wedge-

Wedge
When

the

by

in

and

race

is fixed

startinghandle

cuiii-Hliii|tud
projection,behind

Khiipoiljiioco(/ drops

shuttle

the

is set

approximately

is

brackets

cap.

the

to

loom

the

Two

enter

top of the
nearest

above

guard.

bolts

by

when

(Fig. 184)

; it is
of

position

is slotted

the

loom

is

forefinger,and

the

thumb.

On

SHUTTLE-GUARDS

XIV

loom,

the
re-starting
cloth

and

This

falls down

d locks

wedge
is also

it in

brackets
shaft
a

has

one

helical

also

the other

shaped
shaft

face of the

carries

turned

are

arms

In

case

and

up

collar open

is suflBcient
when

the

to

loom

bracket

the

are

and

third
in

must
out

move

of

class
all
the

following

superior
same

merit

class,but

The
two

in the

rods

surfaces

caused

of bracket

by beating up

its proper

position

is re-started.

of

Guards

as

shuttle

to

has

positionas

soon

inventors

notice

of manufacturers

have

as

others

with

the
illustrating

worked.
in 1893

It

was

large

one,

automatically

stopped, and

selected

been

compared

which

parts that
is

not

simply

is also

loom

when

way

guards

contain

cases

automaticallyrestored
The

similarly

support

drawn

guard assuming

collar

spring.
to

be

Vibration

Automatic

The

to

inclined

the

spring.

ensure

downwards

threads
and

the

by

the

to

The

pulled against the

curved

by hand,
the

is

light

to admit

out

the shaft.

on

two

latter is secured

collar

chambered

three

parallelrods.

to

is chambered

the

of

face,and

clutch

end

one

bearings for

form

face,and

which

in

guard

slay cap

clutch

spring;

bearing,and
has

the

to

is not

Clifton

"

introduced

Clifton

screwed

and

vibration.

deranged through

"

the

strikes

reed

position.

Hamblet

Hamblet

the

as

simple inexpensive motion,

liable to become

329

as

loom

because

are

is

of

belonging to
general

brought

by Farrell, and

lines

before

started.
re-

its
the
on

the

consists of

MECHANISM

330

bowl

the

186) that

and

(Figs.185

WE

OF

starting handle.

curved

turns

VING

PART

freelyupon

lever h rests

upon

stud

in

in such

#
("

-""v\

j"=

'3

Fia.

manner

stout

that

wire

as
c

the handle

connects

185.

is pushed outward

h with

the

outer

arm

h is elevated.
of

lever

d^

SHUTTLE-GUARDS

XIV

retained
end

beariog
A

framing.

with
a

in

the

rod

but

across

the

cap

end

those

bearings

also

the

At

Bwords

the

and

protrude

the

upon

the

parallel
The

j.

k set-screwed

motion

of

connected

are

When

each

purpose

two

pairs by pins

through

hole

rods

guard

to

resting

of

the

supporting

in

on

entirelythrough

for

holders

the

loom,

and

headpiece

holder

in

the

of

other.

is drilled

two

above

one

the

over

race,

side

"

reed

slots

through

but

to

holders

pass

either

the

places

two

four

shuttle

ets
brack-

inside

"

of i

arm

tirely
en-

attached

and

ends

inner

the

points by

outside

namely,

the

connects

rail of

at intervals

between

cap.

bottom

of

upon

and

slay back,

the

behind

by

screwed

wire

on

supported

is

each

near

end

extends

that

situated

similar

cranked

and

e,

331

the

in

brackets

to

upon

rod

loom

is

bowl
levers

oscillate, and

g.

put

f,o,

\m.

acts

h, d, and
thrust

connections
forward

holders

(^

/,

to

i and

cause

rods

rod

over

MECHANISM

332

shuttle's

the

from

the

inch

path

This

behind

the

pins in
of the

is

guard

reed

until

the

is

warp

in

the

through

loom

lower

1^"

position fully an

holders
the

drawn

then

about

against the
offer

2Y

piece.
holders

back

upper

part of the

little

obstruction
has

motion

the

the

passing two

of the bottom

pins draw

in ; but

in

entering the slot

i,one

hole

position they
shuttle

of

slots

pair ;

stops the

latter rest

being

common

attains

out

moves

simply drillingholes

the other

face, in which

when

of

top piece,and

rods

and

rod

bracket

Immediately
and

rod

part

rod

the upper

produced by making

holders

of

each

lower

VING

WEA

of its fellow.

effect

pair

upper

whilst

; but

reed, the

in advance

OF

the

fect,
de-

-guards, of lacking rigidity and

strength.

XV

PART

UP

BEATING

Beating
To

slay.

follows

up

picking,and

successfullycontrol

must

be

delivered

must

be

retarded

to

to

its

is the

function

movement

swift

drive

weft

home,

and

afford

time

for

shuttle

of

the

blow

movement
to

pass

across.

During
somewhat

such

at

tried,the
and

cams,

swords
in the

were

the

loss to discover
Flat

when

the

good

shuttle

employed
it

method

of

springs placed behind

for

possibleto

slowly by

had

suddenly liberated,and
rendered

inventors

power-loom

pulled back

slay was

springs was

screw

blow.

infancy of

movement.

were

of

the

passed
the

beating
obtain

were

obtaining

the. swords
the

action

across,

the

stored-up energy
up.
a

An

light or

able
adjustheavy

MECHANISM

334

crank

Upon
in such

geared

with

shaft,

to

that

manner

canse

side

to

the

move

equivalent
and

slay

to

large

other

the

at

to

Any

such

arrangement

very

wide

looms.

it is

cam,

piece of
the
One

of

of

shafts

the

loom,

grooved

movement,

as

and

pushed

the

at

facturers
manu-

capacity
at

suitable

of

that

the
this

for governing

the

from

end

fast

the inner

give

the

ends

requisite

connecting
in

slay was

to

than

the

the

cam

arm

groove,

alternatelypulled

with

other

end

are

of

used

the

the

from
at

main

slay to get

loom,

the

the

equally
coming

ever

present time.

driving shaft
and

the

cams

obviating the

driving strap,

slay parallelwith

driving

two

contrivances

extremity, thus
one

for

method

this

of

use

tendency

applicationhas

it at each

keeping

to

placed at

pair of

At

worked

arising from

prevented
best

more

that

shafts

which

Each

fixed.

consequent

the

placed upon

of

shaped

cam,

cams
general use, still,

Probably

short

varying speeds.

difficulties

unmechanical,

time

them

attached.

roller

slightlyaskew, together

for

wheeL

and

wondered

each

revolved, the

cams

straps, and

into

and

use

of two
to

was

antifriction

an

and

The

wheel,

superfluous except for

be

to

driving pulleyswere

eccentric

carried

the

was

one

large driven

the

eccentric

driven

all machinists

that

applicationconsisted

loose
such

the

of

slay.

opposite ends
and

of

small

is,however,

appeared

side

speed, for,
a

give

to

small

slaj

wheel
elliptical

large side

perhaps scarcely to

mechanism

the

moye

eccentric

-driver and

with

part

the

the

and

driver

familiar

were

of

inferior

it is remembered

When

to

and

the

an

small

cranks

up,

with

geared

VING

of

superior speed for beating

wheel
elliptical

side

large

small

the

WE

OF

and

fabric.

at

the

tending
exare

sity
neces-

same

BEATING

UP

readily shaped

to

XV

.Cams

be

can

to
irregularity

modern

In

each

impart

of

degree

any

slay.
slay consists

the

looms

(Fig.187),supported in
Near

33S

extremity of

bolted

cannons

shaft

two

of
to

rocking-shafta

end

the

framing.

upright arms

swords

or

J.

Fio.

fastened; they

are

the

slay

resist

driven

sole

the

c,
"

are

187.

capable of adjustment,

heavy piece

of wood

constantly recurring
it extends

home;

upper

surface

guide

for

shuttle.

the

thin

across

board

race

shocks
the

and

support

strong enough

given

is fastened

to

longitudinalgroove

weft

as

loom, and

serve

is
its

upon

to

as

is made

MECHANISM

336
back

the

near

of

reed

/.

The

side

to

take

the

h the

reed

swords

wide

separate boxes

part

receive

to

the

and

firmlyfixed

in

position.

looms

the

if two

shuttle

or

at

one

bolted

bottom

box
shuttles

more

both

or

its under

on

when

/,

rib of

lower

similarlygrooved

rib

fitted

are

VING

of

of c, but

continuation

is

upper
is

WE

enough

slay cap

single shuttle

In

OF

forms

employed

are

ends

upon

of

the

slay

bottom.
cranks

Two
which

connecting

gibs,and

bent

are
arms

towards

fabric

the

are

is

shuttle

driving shaft, to

main

fastened

also fulcrumed

when

across

forced

is

into

straps,
swords

to
set up

latter is

the

driven

weft

metal

by

revolving cranks

slay,and

in the

fabric

the

are

The

by connecting pins Z.
motion

Ic

Arms

cotters.

the

on

ing
swing-

pulled from
is

it

as

pushed
the

position by

reed.
cranks

When

that

known
for

but

could

time

in

of

thoroughly

the

good

work

on

In

order

to

apply

the

These

points are

connecting pins

the

and

beating up

who

crank

the

parts
of

required amount

for

one

in the

cranks

wishes

can

best

do

that
came
over-

to become
so

by studying
it is

manner,

their usefulness

(1) Relative

(2)

be

may

is

modified

with

relation

positionsof
of

diameter

(3) length of connecting

Eccentricity

them,

Engineers, however,
any

was

tial
essen-

effected

examined.

connecting pins;
cranks

from

how

to

as

it

up

steam-engine.

points where

minutely

be

now

with

conversant

shall

shuttle.

and
difficulty,

that

that

velocity between

passage

that

clear

not

was.

beating
obtained

be

accurately adjusted to give

be

the

it

for

could

motion

variable

some

variation
for

introduced

were

by
to

circles

cranks

and

described

by

arras.

altering
the

crank

the

height

shaft

centre

of
;

BEATING

XV

therefore

it is desirable

UP

that the best

337

positionsof

both

shall

be defined.
beam

If the
similar

steam-engine is

parts of

both

machines

Fig.

relative
a

they
positions,

steady and
Let

the

centre

crank

c,

will

useful motion

(Fig.188),and

as

placed

are

guide,

in

the

and

same

188

then
to

of
rocking-shaft

taken

be

slay.

loom

capable of imparting

be

slay sword

representedby
by

half beam

connectingrod d^ and connectingpin

e,

are

beam

6, then
similar

in both.

When

the

beam

of

an

engine
z

is

horizontal, the

centre

338

MECHANISM

connectiiigpin is

of

shaft

centre

in the

positionin
and

the horizontal

minimum

In

to

order

must

them

move

of

centre

in

majority of

and

fabric

vertical

in

line, but
14"

of

extent

is done

to

permit

d^ to show

the

next, find the

of

circle

crank

line,",

degree

is,however,
looms

and

loom

more

of

6'

the

relative

engine

and

of

its

c',and

draw

of

pin

c",exactly

its

and

velocity when

line

To

passing through
fix the

centre, the

slay

at

of

its oscillation.

eccentricity
being given

journey by

c,

when

it ;

diameter

to

position

length of
the

maintained, and

manufacturers

to

the

of

/.

this

describe

end

to

avoid

to

radius

as

positionsof

are

eccentricity in
in

the

back

imparted

a,

in

reed

is

centre

as

when

motion

line

of crank

for

swords;

arms

to

question affectingloom-makers

than

Valuable
difference

centre

centre

1^" behind

the

a,

points

extreme

line e, with

and

arm,

through the

necessary

it is carried

equal

Bisect

right angles to

the

upon

point

the

connecting pin is,

of

than

the

at

into

engine

behind

when

plane.

vertical

are

With

its

equal

an

slay sword,

connecting

used.

the
at

will contain

to

be

to

drawn

/, mark

line d

on

between

midway

of

looms

cranks.

path

will pass

a',which

short

helow

represent the

more

wide

position of

from

marking

any

line

by casting ears

imduly enlargingthe

of

point

will

"

angle approaching

the centre

some

will be

an

swords

the
;

there

vertical

through

looms, frequentlynot

narrow

the

looms

and

an

crank

pin

loom, it will be

vertical

in contact

are

the

; let

the

plane as

ahove

parts of

Fig. 189

rocking-shaft,and

in

; and

in

part

oscillates,the

spaces

beam

occupy

on

the

of

heam

these

bring

to

90'',as shown

c\

vertical

divergence from

positionsthey

a,

if the

hence,

VING

WEA

same

through equal angular

moye

arc

OF

parts
will

mon
com-

permit

slay.
in

necting
con-

This

designing

using them.
is

the

represented by the
cranks

are

passing

BEATING

XV

through
and

when

given
they

degrees below
If

the

number

UP

of

degrees above

the back

rotary motion

in the former

latter.

slight,but
will

be

seen

With
with
in

a
a

of

crank

number

same

is converted

of

it is found

long connecting
one

Fig. 190,

into

re-

189.

produce unequal

short

the front centres,

centres.

ciprocatingrectilinear motion,
the

the

passing through

are

Fio.

spaces

339

equal angular

rectilinear

arm

it becomes

where

that

is

spaces

the

difference

very

marked,

the

crank

in

is
as

circle,

MECHANISM

340

and

1 to 8

and

If the

plana
the

To

end

crank

between
the
shuttle

8 and

spaces

to

speed
and

therefore
bottom

the

the

radius

the

crank

centres

of

from

to

1 to 4

spaces

unequal,

are

190.

the

connecting

holds
a

necting
con-

horizontal

travelled

is of

smallest,but

difference

the

importance, as

most

other

in

will

crank

arms

arms

diagonal direction,which
and

in

of

8.

slay for beating up,

because
irregularly,

centre

length

and

its

8 represents

speed

for

across.

pass

Cranks

of

PART

h the

have

will

largestand

all the

Fia.

the

VING

moved

be

again to

that

observed

being

spaces,

to

1, point

WE

is moved

back

manner

It will be

point

of division

in like

and

equal angular

are

arm,

OF

are

carries
end

moving

the

cause

pulled in
end

one

at

fixed

through

circle,plus

the

distance

to

more

nearer

90"

pull the slay through

slay

move
or

the

less

crank

from

it ;

from

front

to

space

equal

to

difference

in

length

MECHANISM

342

centres,

right-angled
third,

radius

for

of

root

length

of

the

tilted

of

the

extracting
9 '68"

2*52
=

-9*68

each

the
=

hence

0*32";

for

pin

tracting
sub-

sides,

10

of

of

quarter

is

front

to

of

the

required.

is

both

10*^

connecting

revolution

centre

loss

base

and

other,

remainder

armor

movement

Top

the

of

length

altitude,

and

of

length

squaring

crank's

the

by

from

square

from

found

sides

two

the

equals

hypothenuse,

is

part

that

find

to

circle

crank

base

one

square

given

are

equals

arm

length

actual

of

VING

considering

by

triangle

connecting
The

found

be

can

WE

OF

of

radius

2*5"

circle

032

0*32

2-82"

Front

centre

2-5"

bottom

to

Bottom

2-5"

back

to

centre

2-82"
=

"

0*32

Back

centre

"

2-5"

top

to

2*18"

2-18"

0*32

"

10-00"

the

complete
of
It

difficult

more

for

sufficient

other
data
"

formed
the

but

following

movement

for

pin

connecting

tion
revolu-

one

crank.

travels

pin
of

is

of

movement

is

by

the

table

readily

to

than

90"

namely,
aid
of

how

determine

180",

or

trigonometry,

natural

sines

"

and

connecting

owing

altitude

the

of

obtainable

far

to

of

or

the

the

by

versed

want

triangle
the

use

sines,

of
the

BEATING

XV

Table

showing

Motion

the

(Crank

The
from
the

sine
a

point in

diameter
The

of

UP

degree

the

periphery

of

of

Crank

the

inch)

length of

is the

any

343

circle at

line

dropped

right angles to

line.

versed

sine

is

the

space

between

the

sine

and

MECHANISM

344

of

periphery

OF

circle

when

WE

VING

measured

part

diameter

the

on

Una

For

example, let

point 60""
altitude
which

of

of 60"

the
radius

radius, then
2"

and

also

2*+ 0*5"
The

inclined
2-5" the

or

arm,

number

of

result

from

connecting

hence

motion

shortening

of

the

the

the

already given

is

amount

applicable.

turning through

the

will

if it is desired

diminished

or

of

angle

an

the

or

arm,

lengtheningthe connectingarm
Consequently

it

of

will

10"

2*5+0*32

arm

2*5

move

-0*32

eccentricity. Now
a

10"

arm

to

what

subtracting

V7-8125

0*8

of

both,

will

throw

of

2-795"

the

increase
crank

of

eccentricity,the

example,

180"

2*52

crank,

obtain

from

the

crank

and

increased
definitely

2^"

crank

front

for the

in

centre,

second

2-82-2-18

be

used

must

7*8125

crank

rule

pull the connecting

2*18", hence

more

eccentricity;

?
give 0*8" eccentricity

0*64

the

to

For

size of

that

throw

2*82",and

centres,

produce opposite results.

will, during the first 90" of movement,

pin

back

and

greater the

diminishing

as

0-5", and

by taking a

place,and

increasing

connecting

eccentricity,just

11 "5"

It will be noticed

tilted

that

circle 1"

3*464", and

obtained

front

each

at

other.
is

arm

sine

i^^g^jj ^" y^^^^

12"-

be

can

both

at

movement

If the

long, the

^j^^

of

sine

connecting pin.

slay

degrees

follows

it

loss

0*866

11-5'

versed

sine 0*5 for

the

also

crank.

to

is 12"

arm

versed

3-462

is the

line, c"

and

sine

due

pin

the

the

d,

circle 4" in radius

a/122-

ascertainingthe

and

eccentricityof

given

one

4", and

of

for

.-.

of

movement

being 0*866025,

0-5x4

c"^ d is the

5, then

a,

diameter

the

be

(Fig.191)

triangle 6",d, c",b"; and

shows

circle has

in

above

a, h

required.

90"
0*64"
with

BEATING

XV

For

UP

Proof.

n/10210

2-7952

9-6014

9-6014

2-795

0-3986"

0-3986

2-795-0-3986

due

3-1936

2-3964

"7972

To

the

determine

width

of

breadth

of

decreasing the

in

is in

required

energy
fabric

therefore

diameter

of

crank

Although

it

below

which

proportion

circle should

be

in

fixing

width

in
this

is

but

well

is

known

loom

by

time

Then,

if the
best

to

up

in

be

obviously
slay,whilst

increased

width
of

weight

that

of

slay and

and

the

necting
con-

by

looms

loom

similar

the

weaving

for

of

one

in

both

slay

50"

its

looms
;

weft

differing

nevertheless,
for

consumed

and

to

as

at

move

pieces.
model,

other

any

self
himin

narrow

is taken
of

ductivenes
pro-

definite

any

determine

wide
weft

most

speeding

shuttles

of

fabrics

might

lengths

using

follow

not

above

speed

increase

not

velocities

each

the

is

there

do

producing

plan

cause

the

must

this

increased

does

relative

comparing

given

the

the

subject

cranks

now

to

energy,

slay,

extent

some

of

stored

energy

given to

account.

increased;

manufacturers
rule

arm.

proportionatelyshortened.

arms

and

into

maintain

to

to

revolutions

is

width

as

be

to

fabric, and

loom, because

of

stroke

be taken

shuttle, must

diminished
results

of

tiltingtlie

to

eccentricity.

length of

make

loom,

Width

is

345

width

the

same

velocity.
instance, if

For

weighs
and
arms,

150

another

both

lbs., is

one

moved

slay 100" long

producing

similar

by Z^
is moved

long

from

cranks

box
and

14"

arms,

and

9"

it is desired

to

by 4|^"cranks

fabrics,and

box,

to

MECHANISM

346
find what
should

bear

The
.*.

to

relation

of the

revolutions

100

50

: :

width

.'.

50

will

1, but

but

velocity;
other

100

this

4J" cranks,

the circles 20"

of 20"

0-34202, and

inverse

force

of

impact

sj

13-94

8-86

Therefore,

front

versed

as

front

Force

0-271^

: :

3-5

weight

of

ri97"

1-539"

0-211"

0-06037

4-5

0272"

J" and

the

The

13-94"

0-06"

the

shortening

of the

14"

0-14"

the

shortening

of the

9"

will

of the

sine

moved

have

3^"

in

sine

arm.

the

the

as

lbs.

150

made

the

to

that

of

and

cranks

and

required

is

long
as

short
; but

arms

.*.

1^

2^

the

looms

blow

the

been
260

of
per

equal

former

and

it has
65

cranks

revolutions

deliver

arms,

: :

on

0-412^

.-.

in two

of

lbs.,assuming

150

are

4J"

velocities

cranks

lbs. would

65

cranks

0-412".

number

same

slay weighing

the

If the

lbs.

65

of

square

0-211", the

The

0-271".

arm.

is

crank

when

0-211+006

governed by large cranks

force

connecting pins 0-272+0-14

width

small

same

0-06037.

3-5

versed

the

varies

minute,
in

has

one

centres

their

equal

the

at

move

width

to

proportion

^re taken.

centres

sine

be in

must

0-06037

connecting pins

move

latter

92-1-5392=8-86"
9

the

the

velocityof each, points

the

0-34202x4-5

14

of

proportion

for

case,

find

0-34202

x/r4'^-1-197^

weight

2, if both

the

the

part

former.

is not

above

and

in

to

VING

be

: :

so

WE

revohitions

the

those

to

OF

to

be

latter

by

shown

lbs. the

that

weight

slay.

Velocity at
be

can

obtained

reed

moves

any

other

in the

angle

or

larger than

20"

manner.

same

through

smaller

space

greater than

the

throw

of

BEATING

XV

because

crank,

of

point

and

from

the

used,

is

movement

constructed

Looms
the

have

fabric, and

swords

in contact

delivered
the

and

beam

the
are

the

front

that

too

when

low

bottom

their

which

prevent

vertical

when

whether

the

the

the

positions of
centres

can

the

One

In

few

cranks
are

be used,

the

the

vertical,inclined
for

positionof

occupy

be

must

bevelled

the shuttle

looms

the

when

is

of

find

the
is

flyingout.
the

swords

But

centres.

forward

or

finding the

ward,
back-

relative

and

crank
sents
repre-

the reed.

namely, that

"

reed

moving

whatever

cloth touch, the

and
it is

until

slay swings

of

contact

first line erected

be insisted upon

swords

as

the

board

race

this

top

other

permit

danger

on

are

looms

latter

principal one

to

to

it is

breast

the

the

unless

unusual

provided

forward

shed,

bottom

it is not

previously given

thing must

board

race

heavy

carry

constant

some

clearlynot

when

pulled back,

in

and

right angles

rocking-shaft, connecting pin,

most

positionthe

would

cranks

are

swords
rule

and

touching it, and

maintained, shuttles
To

wide

slay was

line

warp

In

of

centre

between
at

cranks

weight, probably

large

the

the

are

because

this is

blow

goods

fabric

cranks,

is firmer

strike

to

centres.

have

and

repassing the

cloth,but

lean towards

considerations

being

; hence

must

reed

the blow
the

medium

invariablydepressed

is

harness

swords
on

cloth

for

case,

circle of 5" is

5-33".

of the

revolution

rightangles to

at

when

and

passing

each

: :

if

connecting pin,

weaving lightand

positionthat

for this

31

is in

points; thus,

describinga

placed vertical

rocking-shaftat
claim

the

difference

of

centre

crank
28

as

for

prevent

to

28' from
a

the

those

between

rocking-shaftis

of
31"

distance

below

placed

are

the fabric, and

with

the

to

347

connecting pins

its contact

proportion
centre

the

UP

parallelwith

the

across.

from

above, but

as

this

348

MECHANISM

is fast

system
devote

any

In

to

the

crank

for each
weft

revolution

receives

Fio.

crank,

is

hinged

slay by
In

crank
up,

and

to

when

of

the

is to actuate
that

crank,

In

blows

two

in
and

Figs. 192

connecting

arm,

quick

knuckle

cession,
suc-

joint

193

is

193.

knuckle

sword,

joint,e

is attached

to

the

connecting pin.
the

from
c

been

it has

straighteningthe

the

part of the framing, and

working.

straightened twice

it is

and

of

in
a

to

necessary

looms

Fig.

sketch

moves

manner

not

the scheme

heavy

weft

PART

192.

usual

the

one

the

blow.

other

plan adopted

such

in

give

VING

explanationof

an

certain

necessary
and

by

to

space

WE

obsolete, it is

becoming

carpet and

found

OF

knuckle

point g

reaches

to

point

joint
the
A

on

is

but
straight,

when

top centre, it is pushed

the

opposite side, the

jointis again straightened.

The

time

elapses between

that

straighteningcan

be

altered

the

first and

by moving the

crank

second

centre

up

MECHANISM

350

rods

dents

and

cotton

cord

two

rods.

The

32*

dent

twist, folded

but

round

iron

wire

passing

e,

cord

suit

to

part

the

bound

and

aection,

in

tarred

round

fourfold
and

WEAVING

half-round

b, approximately

together by

of

OF

usually

dent

between

space

of

consists

occasionally used

is

the

between

in

place

cottoa
For

iuch.

They

the

opposite
keep

the

will

have

from

made

double

ordinary laths, so
of

fibres

the

other.

of

unsized

90

to

Such

that

set

one

reeda

two

comes

used

are

the

to

by placing

from

warp

dents

twisting

to

and

shed.

the

reed
be

spaces

loose

choking

reeds

sometimes

are

between

of dents

sets

fabrics

cotton

is

so

contained

that

constructed
on

definite

given length
of

count,

pitch, or

number

reeda

has

complicated

been

the

reed

without

; this

but

of dents

number

is termed

the

giving

naming

the

the
of

slightest

THE

XVI

advantage

have

in favour

years

The

Eeeds

named

from

Reeds

named

and

the

dents

5 dents

to

to

silk

some

together

contained

on

contained

on

on

or

group,

37".

90".

beer

"

12".
width

dent, and

per

thread

24",

Stockport

reed

Worsted, 54".

"

reeds, pitch,ends

reed,

20

"

beer

or

dents

of

consisting of

group

Dundee,

36".

group,

2000

as

dents

reed,

1800

or

go
4

18".

Of

the

all,others
The

dents

inch

which

use

and

use,

it bids

for
the

comparison
a

number

to

X
"

by

far

the

supersede most,

1^
2

dents

by

the

number

counts.

"

beer

per
"

is

of different

1 reed

"

inches

Stockport,
^
'

of reeds

following Rule
counts

Thus

fair

is in

if

in Lancashire.

useful

most

per

the

foregoing

extensive

find

"

of groups

number

Holmfirth,

not

Macclesfield,36".

37".

beer, or porter

of

Dewsbury,

most

will

use

American.

inches, each

of

called

19

thread

thirty

"

Bolton, 24i". Bradford,

In

last

still in

dents

of

large

methods.

simplestform

number

Scotch,

from

number

On

reeds

some

number

the

of inches

number

On

the

rational

Huddersfield.

Stockport, 2".

dents

within

the

by

"

Reeds

certain

in its

the

Eadcliffe.

certain

proved

more

list of

matter

from

named

inch

one

three

or

followingclassified

probably place the

is

discarded

been

of two

351

This

anybody.

to

that

number

REED

"""

"

""

in basis

0'5".

Bolton,

li^,
24-25

0*8247".

of

To

MECHANISM

3S2

WE

OF

1 reed

Radcliffe, No.

VING

dent

per

part

indL

"

""

"

To

the

convert

in another

given

reed

count

Example.
Dundee

the

dents

and
40

24-25"
40

beer

given

does

37"

20

20

24-25"

inches

dents

TO

61*03

66

their

gave

out,

by the

so

be

that

presence

added
a

of

equal

count

in

reed, and

Dundee

XVII

fabric

LOOM

THE

WEFT

IF

ABSENT

introduced

were

additional

practical utility.

appliance must

Bolton

Stockport reed.

STOP

looms

automatic

required

of

beer

2"

IS

that

per

required

of

MOTIONS

apparent

equivalent count

basis

in

reed

40

PART

When

its

to

Stockport systems
20

per

of

^What

"

reed

one

"

in basis

inches

of

count

parts
Dr.
to

great cracks.

not

loom
be

became

once

necessary

Cartwright

stop

should

were

it at

saw

to

ensure

that

immediately
rendered

some

weft

unsightly

STOP

WEFT

XVII

To
and

its eye

near

be held

to

but

he fixed
difficulty

this

meet

in

when

to

hook

This

slayand

in the

brought
Dr.

acted

the

through

loom

to

claimed

and

and

the

in much

Holt

namely, with

last-named

the

From

simple

has

motion

It is situated
and

shuttle

in which

1831,

England

Ken

worthy

BuUough

it is found

to make

this

year

held

at

box

its

to-day
"

its action

certain

beautiful,delicate,and

positionagainstall rivals,and

side of

one

loom

and

(see Figs. 195

the main

rightangles to

handle

is bent

passes

It is

through

prong
The

end

fork

between

196):

holder

The

at

lever

short

bend

on

the

benfc almost

|
cross

latter

behind

the

of

inch

an

which

pin

fork, but

leaves

other.

right angles to, and

The

an

representingthe

part of the

lighterthan

c.

end

the fabric

resembles

prongs

about

freelybalanced

h is at

its outer

; the

direction

same

somewhat

positionimmediately
hinged

part

the horizontal

to fork

screw

the

in

the end.

from

is

in

James

by

any

duction
the intro-

dated

was

improved by

ordinarythree-prongedfork,having the

set

until

patented

left in 1842

was

except for specialwork, is applied to all looms.

now,

the

drivingbelt,and

instantaneous.

and

at

shuttle box.

one

the

was

attachment

brake

it

condition

same

tical
ver-

nor
satisfactory,

in 1834,

1841, and

in

BuUough

to

grid," which

but

by Gilroy;
and

weft

placed inside

later inventors

by
and

"fork

by Ramsbottom

hook

upon

not

was

achieved

the

of

lever

unbroken

staple assumed

the

the entrance
a

latter

stand.

Cartwright'splan

strikingsuccess

the

positionby

near

the shuttle

inside

wire

caught by

was

3S3

swinging staple,the

occurred

fracture

position,and
groove

support

horizontal

MOTIONS

fixed

by

occupies a horizontal

setting-onhandle

d^ and

end.

of the

fork
2 a

rests

upon

the upper

end

of

MECHANISM

354

form, and

in

with,
fork

g, which

lever

hammer

OF

and

that

at

of

VING

is

point

furnished

capable

with

catch

circular
less semi-

or

more

hold

taking

PART

ing
correspond-

of, the

hook

upon

a.

Hammer
rests

As

lever

rotates

to

arm

is

bell-cranked, and

/, fixed

cam

upon

upper

the

to

Between
so
vertically,

obstruction
Its action
weft

h is

to

forward

at

every

second

reed

that

the

each

once

through, and
at

as

shuttle

and
fork

follows

:
"

the

resistance

also
moment

to

cause

when

to

box

can

prongs

forward

",

end

the loom.
its

causing

pick.

195.

pass

of the

When

the
the

the

shank

hammer

through

fork

without

forward

the
on

and

prongs,

fork
of

is fixed

slay.

slay moves

prevent the
the

grid

stroke

pushed against grid g by

offers sufficient

of

given

the

is

shaft

is

move

at

bottom

lower

its

vibrating motion

Fig.

up

WE

from

passing

latter
e

it

to

tilt

begins

to

WEFT

xvn

vibrate, consequently
; but

should

the

grid,

through

the

contact,

setting-on handle

the

forces
of lever
As
it

than

act

on

stand.
the

continue

after

alternate

that

running

in

remain

carries
latter

with

it
the

pushes

k, and

loose

only placed

the

picks
cranks

is broken

Considerable

parts

the

upon

is

weft

The

pass

its

spring

pulley by

means

I.

mechanism

twice

adjust
and

fork

lever.

and

possible
im-

prongs

catch

retaining notch

of

properly adjusted

are

to

fork

becomes

fork

and

forward

moves

and

the

hook

fork

out

strap

only

can

and

them

absent

be

driving strap

and
this

weft

355

between

contact

hiimmer

holder,

fork

fork,

MOTIONS

STOP

when

one

weft,

will

before

not

the

is, however,

care

loom

of

at

will
it

is

stop

when

present.

side
but

of

if the

revolve

loom,

is

To

parts
more

brought

required
weft

loom

to

so

is absent
ensure

the

MECHAXISM

356

fonner, fork

and

be

\f)

move^l

elevated

ward

fork

the

on

adjustment

If the fork

through,

its hook

if

Also

then

not

tilt the

is sufficient to

nmning

the

the

hammer

the

fork

but

if weft

has

that

hook

The
should

Lateral
fork

be

lever

just

to

The

movement

continue

to

is

the

be

work

its

just

clear

its forward

fabric

hook

will
miss

to

slay,

the

loose

be

kept

it, and

in

are

will

of

ment.
move-

the

with

hammer
upon

enough

hook

begins

belt

for

far

fork

and

things

it should
at

timed

will

and

lift the

enough

requires attention;
to

traverse

pin

running.

loom
pass

broken

enough

of these

when

hammer.

the

one

reed

fork

far

is

catch

pulley,
until

up
thus

the

run.

also

in

to

the

far

tilt when

should

when

throw

to

accurately

sufficient

its fulcrum

lever

if

forward

fork

back-

there

slackened,

stand

keep

latter

move

and

of its notch.

moving

the

as

if weft

will continue

be

setting
or

pass

above

is

to

weft

is unbroken

moved

loom

to

prongs

cause

to

so

not

lifted

weft

loom

lever,

commence

contact,

to

catch

hammer

will

bring

grid

the
to

second

grid bars

sufficiently. Any

time, fork

maximum

through

be

not

rebounds

fork

the

if it does

therefore, in order

fork

forward

an

allows

the
A

of

through

weft, but
will

shuttle

left.

or

permits

far

too

the

cut

lever, which

by

or

pleasure.

passes

to

right

grid

for

pro^-ided

depressed, and

holder

at

tendency

is

part

poirt of the

any

fork

or

the

laterally to

screw

the

VISG

setting

on

WE

touch

not

accurate

arljiLstingscrew
prrm^

most

prongs

board,

race

OF

push
of
to

nearer

the
weft

slay
is

the

this
or

farther

broken,

movement

starting handle

lever

will

its

is

regulated by

from

frequently
and

out

the
cause

fabric.
the

pei-mit the loom

MECHANISM

358
The
lever

", which

and

bowl,

handle.

heavy

of a,

weft

c, and

It is

its full

fork

acts

brings the

troublesome

when

the

loom

to

freely

run

the

upon

in the

is driven

pick

until

at the back

weft

is

but

threads

the top centre

broken
It should

not

be

when

In check

weaver.

the pattern shall be

for

holding

the proper
An

is the

the

pulley,and

strap, the

crank
of

momentum

in

the

been
it to

always stop
for

side if

piecing
place.

the labour

to

of

it is essential
be

removed

vided
prountil

starting-place,
or
pick,is found.

ordinary brake

properly

has

should
once

slay

allow

convenient

means

into

bring

weaver

add

off when

brake

of

is at the fork

most

unbroken,

puts considerable

moving parts by acting before

fast

then

looms, where

other

proved

should

but

the

or

casual

brought

It should

stopped by

and

fly

impart

driving strap

encumbrance

any

yet been

not

impetus

the shuttle

broken,

upon

have

when

pulley, and

when

centre

to

the

followinghalf pick.

loom

appears

should

home,

the

loose

has

loom

reduce

not

brake

ideal

brake

part of

any

should

It
last

traversed

that

to

sure
pres-

with

bears

difficulties that
A

the

by

stand.

the

with

overcome.

strain

or

operation.

the

to

setting-on

of contact

brake

its function

as

the

to

stud

by

c?,by elevating the

clog out

falls,and

loom

is attended
to

affixed

link

tumbler

actuated

turn

side, and

link e^ to

by

the brake

moves

part

started, e is raised

questionable whether

observer, it

stand

is

VING

is in

bracket

loom

invented, for, simple

shock

and

upon

the

WE

is connected

curved

/ against

if the

wheel

by

or

end

of

rests

When

of

but

end

weighted

OF

beaten

same

thus, as
shaft
the

spot,

it takes

and

wears

is

driving strap

about

is forced

slay

up,

the

strain

one

against

checked, the

pick to
the
last

the

upon

is off the

the

move

top cap, the

pick

is

not

the

brake, by constantly acting

the

shaft, bearings,wheels, and

WEFT

XVII

brake.

The

different

last

named

brakes

fork; others

merely

serve

whenever

act

an

latter,all things considered,

Haythornethwaite's brake

originallines,and
It is
actuated
that

as

the

Fig.

has

in

results

double
as

pushes
a

in
up

connection

second

359

loom

the

in

stopping

places.

Some

The

MOTIONS

STOP

contains
brake.

the

clog d^ also

handle

appear

to

be

brake

be

to

moved.

preferable.

constructed

by

finger I
a, the

supports the back

brake

to

and

(Figs.199

of lever

attached

is

the weft

on

good points.

lever

arm

to

199.

seems

The

curved

h that

spring

several

ordinary

an

appendage

", brakes

at

on

200) is
handle

last named

clog c, and
the

front

of

f:"

ir?.j*"^v

",{:*!

t.

"

it^h loori

neb

rr,*;

it^

at

t\iH ^rrank
hari'il^;o^

the

ail

I"ever

is

junction

V^

V^ttom

between

e^

bin

"?.

ztootc

remains

spring

enters

until

front

the

of

of

is acted

by

upon

J-

-^

-K

Hpiralsurface

r-^c

of brake

(jnlargifig
periphery,

the

as

diagonal point

it the
neb

of

neb

the

"""-.^

"

Fi".

boyond

the

po^es

inoperatiTe

the

'J"

in

and

with

"

--

ov(3ry time

back

drawn

be

if

bat

"; .-

zr""jTe

to

and

o:"c.tacs.

is reached.

drops,

and

ot

oct

and

c^ntrCy

/, then

be^a*

centre

brake

the

is

iiiie with

in

front

again reached,

i$

krTer

immediately

"

gro"^;ve ^, but
e^;ritre

fork

the

lesivingthe

I*

cl-ig^

bt wjrilr.z

-tztrrrn.frT

-reft fcr^ak*

tlic

:"

oan

: :fTrL*

""

"

Wf^.u

tf,e

^iriitfA:

which

wheel/,

and

the

exactly the
back

200.

loom

and

the

it upon

brought

is

spot, with

same

centre,

draws

the

to

stop

slay

shuttle

its

little

the

at

fork

MJdo.
Ah

ily

clog c

wheel

is

"?, and

until it rc^Hts
handle
and

or

chooking

last

pick,

working.

the

further

facias of

putting

back

pulls clog d

the

upward
fly wheel

momentum

Spiral

the

into

forward

/" holds

strain
of
a

in

movement
are

held

the

upon

the

as

slay

steady

in

when

with

contact

end

wedge-shaped fixing h

unnecessary
the

it

slightly elevates

against

/, when

both

pushed

is

in

checked,

out
clip with-

working
beating
the

spring

on

of

parts
up

loom

the
is

WEFT

XVII

Friction
instead

pulleys have

of

fast

instantaneous
and

pick

STOP

and

loom

driving power

at

latter because

the

first

ones.

It is

full power

and

ordinary side

to the

so

fork

with

and

available

reed

being brought

to

its

pick and pick

sink

the front

to
on

and

falls

of

centre

by

to

the

pass

are

to

swing

of

it that

the

greater,
duced,
intro-

was

weft

perfected,also

stop

that

it is

the

in the

g.

fork

pushes

of the

centre

separate pick,and in

stopped.
plan, front
the

of fork

tions
eleva-

verse
trans-

to

enter

c?,screwed

bracket

and

side

and

in which

prongs
A

board.

pin

be absent

become

slay bottom

allow

prongs,

beneath

sion
succes-

the number

fork

fork works

203

race

of two

As

pick

to

in

one

centre

is

slay sole,supports

consists

of

stand.

looms

is the

back, rises and

shuttle
extent

the

below

to

for

is

vibratingwith

the

deliver

to

adapted

the weft

them

loom

and

I is cut

groove

connection,

be driven

to feel for each

the

:
respectively

Fork

the

picking.

made
; it is

Figs. 201, 202,

well

may

claims

implies,this

name

is absent

one

and

severed

difficulties

the

overcoming

for alternate

space

case

brake

because

be exerted

is not

loom, and

its inventor

for

As

their

by

Fork

shuttles

increased

is

view

motion

would

fork

weft

side of

the loom

shuttles

of

former

the

Wefp

for two

pick motions,

without

that

pick.

Centre

An

loom-driving

required to

be

; the

with

once

for

argued

would

present

at

ceases

the

advocated

less power

than

361

been

loose

action

MOTIONS

upon

guides the moving parts.

hook

e, and

arm/,

fork

is made

The
shifter
up

its prongs

h, which,
far
arm

by preventing it

enough

all fastened

swing

to

the

as

to

allow

/ regulatesto
from

moving

slay
a

some

too

far

362
in

MECHANISM

case

done

results

jerk

by / entering

further

is

traverse

Two

thin

shifter

from

the

VING

WEA

and

PART

of A with

contact

slot in h

is

top, where

the

rising to

This

e.

impossible.

plates^

iron

to

OF

in.

move

screwed

Rod

upon

is

d form

hinged

A, and

to

for

grooves

passes

iW

VJ

J*

Fig.

through
in the

lower

swing

upon

bracket

m.

whole

holes,

two

flanges
holder
A

is secured

across

the

loom.

of

I;

foot

by

drilled

one

set

in

forked

the

latter

to

screws

Rod

the

and

upper,

guide A;,which
is bolted

rests

201.

on

**

upon
a

upon

the

with

other

is free
the

an

to

top of

floor, and

bar
cylindrical

is furnished

the

the

ing
w, extend-

adjustable

WEFT

XVll

stop hoop y. It constantly presses

of

k, and

elevate

fork

Guide

its

that

and

fork

slay

moves

therefore

c,

their

of

weft

fork

is

h, i fall by
until

the

arrested

by

from

sinks

It

then

the

bottom

of

groove

the

into

take

low

too

prongs
as

the

latter
A

held

which

from
raised

absent,

speed
e

pends
sus-

the

end

piece

opposite to,
it into

turns

on

by

On

under

contact

against the

bracket
of

Fig.

^,

202.

q, and

centre

side

and

swivelling finger

is fixed

the

the

hook

slay moves

with,

On

h, and

its slot.

is thus

tinues
con-

is

if weft

to

loom

same

the
of

the

fall at the

shifter

has

in
hook

for

to

i, but

motion.

hand,

other

slot

it,so

in

ends

slay beyond

the

weft.

fallen

falling

its extreme

the

meanwhile

The

b.

gap

prevented
until

is

forward,

are

pulled by

are

to

increases

lying across

farther

back,

the top

weight

own

prongs

is thrown

flange

follows

between

k and

the

as

fork

h when

space

flangeof

slay

upper

being immediately

highest point, it

the

the

against the

sufiiciently.

shifter

below
at

set, when

be

must

363

MOTIONS

STOP

inside

of breast

lever t, fulcrumed

at

beam

s.

its centre,

has

OF

MECHANISM

3^4

one

end

pushed back

upon

and
shaft x^

Fig.

VING

and

PART

the other

pushed

203.

pressed against arm

an

by finger r,

forward

WE

movement
oscillating

being

set-screwed

is set up, and

starting

366

MECHANISAf

the warp

which

after
hole

rigidduring

the

it became

1, unwind

The

OF

defect

of

weaving

this

the

long

as

occupied

About

the

1788

year

simple contrivance

upon

fixed

and

loom,

the

at

effectively.He
opposite
h

to

the

ends

outer, and

ends

of the

draw

warp

ropes

forward

extent

ropes

motion, but

and
not

to

during weaving

warp

named

putting

2.

tinually
con-

so

Clarke

the

two

three

or

(Fig.205), fastened

going

weights
to

behind

times

controllingit ;

to

the

for

to

equal

an

to

loom, provided

the

keeping

inner

weaver

the

of

round

heavy weights

enabling a
his

more

warp

weights reciprocatewith
extent

production of

the

governed

ropes

of

adopted

204.

this,in addition

vastly superior method

it in hole

place

the

light balance

without

from

in

time
two

of beam

fabric,

rod

the

remove

largelyincreased

same

coiled

2" to 3" of

of from

consisted

weaver

that

PART

position.

Fig.

VING

beam, and

system

increasingstrain

to

necessary
from

warp

WE

large

shedding
tension

MECHANISM

XVIII

upon

the

shed

opens,

in all its

warp

much

of

wound

again.

it

as

WARP

367

varying positions; yet,

is drawn

warp

closes, as
on

GOVERNING

FOR

the

from
is not

used

beam,
up

in

when

and

when

it

the

fabric

is

f
B

S
Fio.

further

produced

by

defect
the

periphery, without
of
would
the

the

roller

necessitate

decreased

at

occurs

extraction

205.

every

revolution

of

layer

of

of the
yarn

simultaneously alteringthe
where

the

ropes

weight being

diameter

of coiled

act.

removed
warp.

To
in

beam,

from

its

ence
circumfer-

rectifywhich

proportion

to

MECHANISM

368
For
that

6'',and

from

until

its

83*3

lbs.

must

100

: :

of the

One

of

from

shocks

the

It

power-loom.

and

fastening the

hooks

in the

used

if

5",

the

in

floor
and

ends

outer

inner

has

this renders

but

in

ends

shedding hieimess,and
of

excess

used

on

are

in

common

weights,

required,or

are

upon

and

their

simple or compound
to

less

of

capable
the

machine

chains, upon

or

ropes,

to

above,

balance

removing

fabrics

adopted

in

that

less sensitive

from

pulled

warp

equal

described

when

of

stout

beam

of

is found

been

manner

weighted levers, either

to

weight
an

springs similarlysituated,for light goods,

flat

is

maintain

to

vibrations

consists

framing, if

warp

present working in this country.

at

the

settling upon

subjected to

Then

becomes

principalalterations

the

part

(Fig.205) equal 2^",

lbs.

100

radius

weights, applied

prevent

of

be

VI NG

appliance slightlymodified
looms

cotton

weight

Clarke's

tension.

^^

radius

of

drawn
6

let the

example,

WE

OF

taking

than

beam

in

movement

the

back

where

any

balance

weights.areused.
There
cause

are

motion
letting-off

is of

the beam
cast

both
An

there

dry
iron

sound

hoop

timber

turned
to

to

6", and

considered
passes

driven

uniform
the

liable

not

is inserted

section, are

into

superior to

rare

solid

from
a

occurrence.

|"
solid

to

end

IJ".

one,

beam,

about

gudgeons

the former
to

solid

because
and

made

of

; of

the

be

built
its

warping

in

used.

beam

to

1" square
then

are

varying
A

to

these

built;

should

of

and

wood

and

warp

gudgeons,

Beam

in.

diameter

latter

each

bearded

entirely through the

a

frequentlyof

more

attention

It is sometimes

varieties, viz.

two

are

careful

satisfactorily
; of

work

great importance.

when
prevent splitting,
in

to

wrought iron, but

or

latter

points that require

many

from

beam

5"

is

gudgeon
is

quently
conse-

GOVERNING

WARP

required to prevent

ropes

MECHANISM

XVIII

FOR

369

Cast-iron

ruffles

are

from

channellingthe

they

are

but

often

are

event,

chains
Iron

for

employed

in

be

must

steel

power-looms,

becoming entangled.

an

is

enough

be

can

circumstances

that

warp

for

given

between

be

giving

the

threads

held

tightas

as

be

be

harsh

its

as

and

wear

the

in

pullingaction

the

subjectedto

both

latter, because

36" to 40" is not

Chains

possess

cotton

many

also

as

The

latter is

The

the cost

to

for ropes

warps

cost

amount

an

being

too

20"

of healds

to

an

great

24"

is

of

respect

keeping

Is. to 6s.

of friction

or

into
is

tax

case

for

put

the

to

even

looms,
looms.

weighting

in

fit working

to

8s. per

state.

manufacturer,

annum

per loom.

produced by coilingropes
2b

its

regular tension,and

more

them

necessary
un-

piece ;

certain

for

ropes

be

it is

upon

length in heavy

important consideration

from

may

either

the

haye

to

former, because

woven

over

allow

breaking

or

; in

enough

uncommon

advantages
in

vary

general rule

little warp

too

or

results ; in the

tear

frequentlybefore

elasticity.From
but

much

Too

length

strengthwill

feel

it
No

made.

harness;

taken

the

upon

for the

weighting,nor

may

to

rest, breast

wound

will

and

slipping

bolted

back

warp

cloth

beam

fabric

appearance.

pulled too

ropes

great length to

brackets

the

it
still,

should

in

faulty

or

of

warps

threads, else if weight is insufficient the fabric is apt

raw

intended

all beams

parallelwith

be

tension,

with

sand

allow

to

surface,

moulding

outside

supported

it must

exposed

without

useless

smooth

the

upon

permit

taking-up roller,and
even

warp

leave

fear of the

beam

warp

definite rule
of

without

framing ;

with

provide

fixed

to

or

on

beam, and

rendering it

smooth

flanges are

wound

loom

they

as

be

Each

to

chains

slipregularly.

to
or

use

they

thus

and

turned
occasionally

in any
or

beam

and

round

MECHANISM

362
in

case

done

results

jerk

by / entering

further

traverse

Two

thin

shifter

to

is

OF

from

the

VJNG

and

PART

of li with

contact

slot in h

the

rising to

This

e.

is

top, where

impossible.

platesd!

iron

WE

in.

move

screwed

Rod

is

d form

upon

hinged

to

grooves
and

for

passes

T-Al
3
^

vi

-y^^j

Fig.

two

holes, one

lower

flanges

through
in the

swing

upon

bracket

whole

m.

holder
A

is secured

across

the loom.

of

//

foot

by

drilled
a

set

m
screws

Rod

in

and

upper,

is bolted

rests
to

the

guide A:,which

forked
latter

the
on

201.

upon
a

upon

the

with

is free
the

an

to

top of

floor, and

bar
cylindrical

i is furnished

the other

the

ing
Uy extend-

adjustable

WEFT

XVll

stop hoopy.
of

k, and

elevate

must

fork

Guide
below
at

It

slay is

set, when

and

fork

slay

of

weft

fork

is

from

the

It

then

the

bottom

of

groove

the

into

low

other

as

of

the

is thus

On

the

is

hook

latter from

held

to

tinues
con-

h, and

has

loom

same

its slot.

to

hook

for

motion.

shifter

ends

h, but

fall at the

the

falling

in

hand, if weft

prongs

The

sinks

slot

it,so

in

by

slay beyond

weft.

take

the

gap

the

meanwhile

top

until

its extreme

pulled by

is

follows

arrested

are

until

too

to

h, i fall by

c,

prevented

fallen

back,

forward,

lying across

farther

thrown

flange

increases

weight

own

prongs

the

the

moves

therefore

their

fork

between

k and

the

are

be

upper

being immediately

that the space

as

against the

highest point, it

flangeof

363

constantly presses

shifter h when

its

MOTIONS

sufficiently.

STOP

raised

absent,

speed
e

pends
sus-

the

end

piece

opposite to,

and
N

the

slay moves

with,

which

it into

swivelling finger

turns

on

is fixed

by

On

under

the

contact

side of

Fio.

202.

g',and

centre

bracket

p,

against the
s

lever

inside

of

^, fulcrumed

breast
at

beam

5.

its centre,

JiECHAXISM

3^
iuks

one

end

pa^h^ti ^ufk

CF

by "nz*^

WEAVISG

r.

aiidi the

odha-

poshed

JjQi.

Fi"^.

forward
upon

and

shaft x^

-203

pressed against arm

an

movement
oscillating

r/

being

is set

set-screwed

up, and

starting

y^'

::EAJr::s^

^v.

I-

-jr

tt:

vl'il

"

fr-

wikTi

lire '""fijnL

CL

11^

ITS*'

T^jiT

Wjui, aiKl

at

the

of beam

eD^is
o]/jx^Jiite

end

ft

dr^w

the

and

outer,

of the
warp

ro[ies ;

forward

two
tf

ropes

motion, but

and
not

to

goTeraeJ

the

two

rc"pes

balance

weiiihts

this,in ad"iition
without

going
of

to

extent

Ad"T*ted

behind

of

times

with

keeping

an

round

heavy weights
c

to

his loom,

controlling it ;

more

warp

enabling a

weights reciprocate
the

three

or

i, fastened

(Fig. 205

lizht

vastly superior method

extent

'ILirie

?:'4.

time

?Ame

coiled

He
^rff*r"rtively.

'/ to

ii. !"""]" i

T"lf*:^h

itZji

r^iZL-^i

"Ttu-Ter

r^f-

I AIT

AV.n

~3-^7-.-jrj

:f

for
the

the

inner

weaver

to

provided
to

large

shedding

equal

tension

MECHANISM

XVIII

upon

the

shed

opens,

in all its

warp

much

of

wound

again.

it

as

WARP

367

varying positions; yet,

is drawn

warp

closes, as
on

GOVERNING

FOR

from
is not

the

used

beam,
up

in

when

and

when

it

the

fabric

is

S
Fig.

further

produced by

defect
the

periphery, without
of

would
the

the

roller

necessitate

decreased

at

occurs

extraction

205.

every

revolution

of

layer

of

of the
yarn

simultaneously alteringthe
where

the

ropes

weight being

diameter

of coiled

act.

removed
warp.

To
in

beam,

from

its

ence
circumfer-

rectifywhich

proportion

to

-n."-

.i_i

-_r

ITL.*

r_

"

:r

jin***-

"^"^j*

j^

"Hit

~_"J

""

T"-u:ii"

It

llrfr

l^^-rTlCL-

-^
^r-ZIi'.r:

Hiss

"::?

r.

f^msfc.

.Tlii

";

"

ItfSL

""

.Am

*.

JAl-CCei

lO

i^A

::rr

#,ri.

Az.

V.

iz^x,

I'x^

iT-i

ilic

I7^"*gr

*"'.mi

ii iiL^r:-^!

tie

li:

10

~^.
'.":*'

j^i^i.-r

::im

s-ilii
the

'Ti-i^

-e^o

-Ea.!-

fr"

1-:

:o

cue,

l:"eAn,

:t

\\\

s:.:!

^s

to

tviflt beam

^"^r^':i"e its
ar.l

5e

wArpir.^

is

,c:Tsii?eon
is

conse-

GOVERNING

WARP

required to prevent

ropes

MECHANISM

XVIII

FOR

369

Cast-iron

ruffles

are

from

channellingthe

they

are

but

often

they

steel

or

in

use

be

power-looms,

becoming entangled.

on

beam

even

definite

rule

be

can

with

circumstances

that

warp

raw

the

if

and

also

as

The

latter is

the

for ropes

cost

amount

warps
cost
an

to
an

24"

is

of

keeping

Is. to 6s.

of friction

or

into
is
for

put

even

case

the

the

haye
be
necessary
un-

it is

piece ;

upon

its

looms,
looms.

weighting

regular tension, and

in

fit working state*

to

8s. per

annum

manufacturer,
per loom.

produced by coilingropes
2b

to

may

certain

for

ropes

more

them

allow

former, because

tax

important consideration

from

apt

length in heavy
to

vary

breaking

or

woven

over

length

general rule

; in either

enough

uncommon

respect

it
No

both

little warp

too

of healds

advantages
in

for the

the fabric is

or

great

made.

strengthwill

feel

being

too

20"

possess

cotton

harsh

much

latter, because

to

be

as

the

upon

harness;

results ; in the

tear

36" to 40" is not

many

The

fabric

to

rest, breast

wound

will

its

slipping

bolted

back

be taken

tightas

as

frequentlybefore

Chains

ropes

intended

threads

warp

and

beam

pullingaction

elasticity.From
but

great length to

weighting,nor

weight is insufficient

the

wear

for

held

Too

of

brackets

the

may

appearance.

the

in

it
still,

giving

subjected to

in

sand

allow

to

all beams

faulty cloth

or

between

be

pulled too

enough

surface,

moulding

parallelwith

be

given

should

threads, else
a

the

outside

supported

tension,

exposed

without

useless

smooth

warps

the

taking-up roller,and

an

warp

is

it must

framing ;

with

of

without

warp

and

leave

permit

fear of

or

beam,

provide

fixed upon

to

wound

loom

rendering it

smooth

flanges are

be

Each

to

they

as

must

thus

slipregularly.

to

Iron
for

employed

event,

chains

or

and

turned
occasionally

are

in any

beam

chains

and

round

MECHANISM

370

ruffles

beam
ones

when

made

the tension
round

different

from

drag

put upon
and

beam,

fibrous

condition

warp

; but

has

opposite ends, by doubling

much
an

to

weight

thus

if

in the

words,

attached

"

twice

counter

heavy end
friction

is

to
as

maintain

to

proportional

the

other

lbs. will

be
27

is

the

the

coils,or
in

his

of actual

to

is

elevate

be

Z\

Pradicol
tests

with

1 lb.

ruffle ;

weighted,
lb.

weight
three

laps approximately

perform

ation
alter-

round, nearly

four

the

fourth

work.
powers

3*.

Mechanics^ gives
a

twice

with

3^, 4

upon

first,second, third, and

3S

an

counter, with

the

to

necessary

if

and

by

up

lapped

needed, and

be

will

equal to

Perry,
results

lbs. will
lbs.

81

This

required

rope

rope
beam

slowly pulled

; if the

end

round

once

will be

1 lb. counter

observed

be

of coils of

number

is twisted

rope

laps about

of

the

at

in other

of

exert

is coiled

rope

counter

weight

; and

ones

ruffle also affects

given

and

will,however,
great difference
is made

on

needed

be

or,

the

old

New

load."
A

will

equal pull ;

than

of

if

weight

condition.

materials, they

; the

PART

their

greater holding powers

frictional

varying

VING

depends largely upon

far

possess

WE

OF

the

following

counter-weight:

"

FOR

MECHANISM

XVIII

The

shows

table

is

There

beneficial efiect in

further

slipping becomes

then

wound

one

end

to

must

the

for

stated

p.

on

different

parts of the

by employing
shed

maintenance
other

is left

weight
The

being
beam

contrivance

tighten it

off and

shed

end

ing
maintain-

closed,or

is,however,

warp

closes,but

of

to

warp

reduces

who

as

the
the
the

diminishes.

in any

the

as

during shedding

positively,it

taken

and

attempt

is

conditions

the

by

for instead

way,
is

simply pulled

shedding, beating-up,
this

Still,faulty as

motions.

paid

considered

be

beam

met

required by

as

is,it

lever motion

weaver

warp

is not

delivered

as

one

the

irregular

so

in to slacken

moves

of

up

inside,

the

of

are

With

floor.

oflT at

tension

uniform

of the

the

opened

are

pull from

when

weaver.

An

undoubtedly is,here
be

can

sheds

not

weights

incapable of

be

to

which

condition

taking-up

warp

fixed

to

tested

When

entirely with

second

the

to

the diameter

as

warp

and

of

out

the

given

only

can

warp.

vibrator

and

opens,

to

it is reached

to

and

rope

365, it is found

approximate

to

from

let-oflT.

equal tension, where

an

of

rule

laps wiU

but
slipping,

and

unmechanical,
essentially

it is

framing winding

be

to

this induces

simple as

makeshift

the

to

absolutely useless

to be

and

Handy

sink

counters

slack rope

extent

as

loom, and

impossible,for

fixed

rope

cause

some

nature

the

and

up
of

weights

made

but

utilityof the

additional

which

point beyond

at

theory,

the

demonstrate

to

produce

from

371

above.

given

and

WARP

divergence

accurate
sufl"ciently

GOVERNING

is its
back

part of the

strongest point,for
as

shed

opens

and

closes.
The

third

capable

of

require an

requirement is admirably met,

doing

the

overlooker's

work

can

attention

be

because

simpler or

when

once

nothing

less liable to

adjusted.

weights

dead

tension

fixed

of

deliver

Others

regularly.

positive

to

these

are

by

beam

tion
combina-

tion,
conjunc-

in

taking-up

the

with

connection

warp

then

the

negative parts working

direct

off

pay

leaves

it
of

most

merely give

some

positively,and

it after

upon

and

without

but

motions

warp

maintained

part

attempting

without

weighting

automatic

hanging

positivelet-off

so-called

the

Of

WEAVING

OF

MECHANISM

372

motion.

letting off

for

the

From

and

warp

large

only possible to

defined

be

again, may

Others,

drawing

select

if they fairlyrepresent
still,
a

the

good general knowledge

alterations

of minor
Charles
of

Schilling of

motion

and

ordinary weights
weights
d,

to

e, fixed

an

upon

with

Compounded
with

those

lever

The

the

of

York
the

to

levers

endless

rope

rack
fulcrum

is
A

obtained,
to

claims

the
to

and

the

passes

and

also

round

pinion

3, the

teeth

from

the

i is

sXj, and

study

student.
be

the

inventor

class.

that

c,

class;

principlesinvolved,

first-named

suspended
of

each

b, a (Fig, 206), but

filming,
/

be

it is

market

the

two, from

most

safely left

New

belonging

in

different

may

be

can

at

or

one,

positively.

cloth

away

of inventions

number

motions

self-contained

as

He

uses

fastens

the

guide pulleys

over

wheel

rope
of

which

top

of

weight

at k.

/.
gear

pressor

Above

glaze

the

and

warp,

irregular than

be
to

OF

MECHANISM

374

if

Hanson

and

weighting motion,

is

surface

Crabtree

patented
of

consisting

flat

the

beam

into
comes

star

wheel
thus

wheels

/,

the

also

i,
in
of

and
one

rod

into
also

the
into

on

is

is secured

to

wheel

of

bracket

when

fastened

fulcrum

d of

arm

to

which
A

slay

of

beam

ts

pawl

to

and
gears

short

the

top.

bell-crank,
is

hinged,
hooked

controlled.
sword

consists

of

secured
for

Smith

and

bottom

the

to

by

framing, keeps

otherwise
a

force

spiral spring,

the

on

not

the

reduce

(Figs. 209

warp

Ic

screw

Heywood,

wheel
the

as

teeth

position
g

of

worm

%,

made

class, as

one

motion

in

belonging

motion

of

ratchet

serves

lever,
letting-off
takes

latter

shaft, and

end

one

it

slightly

S.

worm

with

causing

upon

of

hoop,

beam

moves

compressing

i,

peg

contact

the

Brothers

worm

and

2og

on

A,

g,

ascend

second

is fixed

by

by

or

and
into

the
An

of

time

every

setting

and
_;',

p,^

off

and

the

portion

into

tooth,

means

give

to

the

e,

and
upper

by

revolves

that

to

The

taken

is

wheel

shaft

flange

(Figs. 207

spring

screwed

This

to

automatic

pressure,

which

vertical

from

of beam

hoop

necessary

worm

beam

another

beam

iron

of

with

the

j'ouraalaS, 6.

pressed against the

210), which

of

simple roller,extending

leather-covered

in

208), resting

journal

the

cause

part

used.

flange, was
Messrs.

to

WEAVING

lever
end

stud, the

MECHANISM

XVIII

other

by
of

is

to

of

stroke

GOVERNING

slotted, furnished

means
arm

FOR

of

the

of the

take

second

stud

is held

slay,arm

is

pulled

in wheel

Fio.

it is obvious

But

h.

worm

is full will deliver

the

supply ;

carrying a
a

this

; for

empty

I at

its

carries

more

are

upper

shaft

lever
the

near

end, j

slotted rod

and

the

side

against

far

enough

under

each

that, at

to

drive

the warp

tooth

taken

forward

allow

pawl

beam

by

209.

than

when

the beam

when
are

added

is
to

beam

nearly

regulate

^, vibrating in bearings and

t, y, ^, near

one

extremity, and

other, i supports

heavily weighted

w, which

375

adjusting screw,

negativeparts

three-armed

lever

and

that

warp

reason

these

two-armed

an

letting-off
lever,so

tooth

with

WARP

is connected

warp

stalk

by

m,

stud

roller
and
to

h
the

MECHANISM

376
surface

upper
on

until

the

of

the

to

Eatchet

inside

and

roller

deliver

slides
with

contact

when

this

Z, and

vibrator

over

the

time

same

weights

tension.

warp

takingroller

vibrator

the

occurs,

the

than

the

of

revolution

for each

considerablymore

requires ;

into

constant

tooth

one

; at the

it under

keep

Eod

lever.

comes

shaft

fabric

c, if moved

crank, would

of its slot

PART

locked.
practically

passes

VING

of the bell-crank

end

is

harness

stalks

upon

warp

forward

up

inner

stud, where
The

arm

WE

OF

9G

Fig.

is

pulled

rod

the

the

The

to

tooth
motion

the

weights

forward

of slot in

end

unable

next

by

pushed

is

touches

being

back

draw

by
n

back

in ratchet
is

210.

on

in

Ic until

arm

then, owing

pawl

c,

and

m,

far

fallingback

the

to the

stud

spiralspring

enough

to

drop

over

is suspended.
letting-off

fairlysatisfactoryfor heavy work,

greater strain is put upon

in

yarn

in

an

open

than

in

but

closed

shed.
In
let-ofF

1883

Keighley

motion,

prevent warp

in
from

of

which

Burnley
the

contrived

beam

is

self-contained

only weighted

becoming entangled by unwinding

to

too

MECHANISM

XVIII

freely. After

FOR

leaves

warp

cloth -covered

vibrating bar

c, and

roller.

those

The

roller

of

with

is in contact
clutch

shaft.

flattened
the

the

pin

connects

fixed

that

the

set

to

touch

tooth

rod

to

brake
a

the

the
than

former

it up

to

bracket

of

ten

one

and
letting-off

without

the

loom

to

the

in g

say,

"

on

clog 1

lever

handle

into

on

an

passes

3, shown

when

weft

g.
a

tal
horizon-

average
beneath
s, but

its inner

end

restingupon

at

loom

is shifted

with

/, and

of

from
a

to

picks.
lever

rise alone

is connected

weft

fork

from

moving
2 to

are

clutch

weighted

is free
and

the

to

all

breaks, cracks

in

a;,

drawing

or

by /

^,
rod

hinge

advance

taken

it with
at

and

ally
later-

fulcrum

on

having

contact

on

key-way

perpendicular,the

startingin
time

in clutch
w^

taking-up are

of lever

lever

If the

act.

teeth

deliveringwarp,

slides

carries

is traversed

:"g

the

horizontal

short

worm

shaft,and

slides upon

latter

to

by

bottom

to

with

contact

spring

invariably elevates

carries

the

driven

are

if left horizontal

protruding piece 4

and
z

owing

to

over

to

manner

allow

of

advance

three-armed

machine

prevented by

tooth

same

placed higher

entering the ring groove

; but

parts of the

is

is

secured

by the oscillation

retaining notch,

this

usual

of

following manner

in motion

forward

cloth

the

end

the

on

stops, and

by turning

be

and

thus, by their nip, to prevent the

wheel

loom

with

arm

may

to

disc g ; the

its shaft

upon

so

pulley c\

Slightlyin

disengaged in

clutch

of

whenever

by

projectioninto

side

and

roller

6, and

is set-screwed

rf,which

the

parts of Keighley's motion

the

All

under

slipping.

from

warp

heavy,

5, having exactly the

in

of

and

gravitatetowards

over

(Fig. 211), and

forward

centre

it passes

yjl

taking-up roller,viz. 15", thence

the

as

WARP

beam

roller

measuring

circumference

cloth

the

roller

presser

nearly round

GOVERNING

lever

by
5,

MECHANISM

XVIII

PART

hence,
1

clog

when

leaves

the

of

movement

driven

the

from

of

picks
; 45

per

inch.

it

and

driven

is

is

the

to

be

attached

to

the

roller

-up
latter

and

with
r

It

on

required to

known

weave

weft.

is

which

matter

the

Assuming

side

obtained, the

yard
the

cent

per

maintaining

shedding
throw.

or

rear

end

of

contains
shaft

takes

ing
measur-

end

the

n^

ing
tak-

roller

the

the

teeth;

below

revolving

j9,

into

shaft

forward

100

taking-up

of

side

I drives

worm

picks

change

to

per

number

carrier

g', it

teeth

is

of

pounded
comworm

and

be

yard
the

cloth, but

thickness

for

shaft

and

of

exact

amount

closeness

possible to

of

warp

ascertain

wheel

; this

be

and

seen

must

than
secure

what

have
the

one

in

tooth

less

regular delivery of
provision is made

making

whether
the

for
shed

outlines

tappets exactly similar, but

the

been

taking-up wheel.

regular tension

consists

making

by

by experience.

above
to

is

warp

contraction, yet in practiceit

of contraction

vibrator
After

of

percentage of warp-contraction has

constant

closed

than

is determined

remains

; it now

is open

the

it may

parts described

The

in

more

allowance

the

in

one

Although

calculation

warp

that

the weave,

with

for every

number

q.

is well

varies

tain
con-

for

one

through

which

worm

the

the

the

to

be

h is

should

teeth

on

short

60

wheel

which

upon

right angles

at

wheel

drives

; and

made

another

wheel,

fixed

is

carrier

roller

equal the

to

to

seen

opposite

they equal picks

inch

are

shaft

if

2, and

6 ; the

^, which

% are

379

with

Measuring

wheel

by

i is thus

rises

loom.

picks per J

WARP

fly wheel

teeth

30

by

same

of

in wheel

teeth

", and

roller

shaft

Wheel

picks;

and

clutch

alterations

when

of

the

for

teeth

inch

brakes

inch

per

outward,

periphery

if the

15 teeth

moved

is

GOVERNING

FOR

of

diifering

following experiment, the

-^^
^

-'^

^v

"

e$*

V
^

"*

""'-"'

-.

~;*

382

MECHANISM

-namely,

purposeto

grip

of

beam

fabric

that

the

edge

of

with

the

Beam

periphery
the

breast

its teeth

with
with

loosely

through
concentric

and

the

those

upon

back

beam

of

wheel
a

is bolted

with

end

also
; it is

stud

enable

the

The

framing,

bearings

and

parallelwith

roller

placed

eo

the

the

front

latter,

rest*

on

one

stud

d,

short
to

a.

so

part

partly projects beyond

beam

VING

it forward.

the

h is set-screwed

gear

compounded
work

of

draw
in

are

harness, and

wheel

and

firmly

WEA

friction, and

create

to

(Fig. 212)

it

OF

end

pinion

both

so

Wheel

the

with

shaft
latter

because
that

stud

bracket,

A gears

beam

c, and

named

adjusting
slotted

of the

the

slot

is

they
passes

beiog

change pinion

TAKING'

XIX

g, and

pawls

the

this

when
or
on

is to

breaks, and
catch

pushing

i is

I, and

centre

passed through.
adjustable,it
to

the

set

in

in the
This

form

of

owing
tooth

thin

by

catch
on

take

given
will

in turn

of

extent

stud

they

and

loaded

contact

and

drop

over

tooth

the front centres, and

by
The

or

the

as

weak
means

no

catch

it may

often
be

not

lower
on

of

to take

; hence

ends

the
be

cloth
so

ratchet/
one

bolted

studs

on

tooth

side

under

acting at opposite ends

requires to
a

is the

pressed against the

1 is

winds

up

regularly.

their

at

pawl

teeth,

two

push, the

of

taken

action.

supported

taking-up motion
shall

take

levers

are

be

the

case

cloth

draws

by alteringthe

are
irregularities

them

roller

balance

two

surface
A

to

only

; but

will then

either

; it may

it

pull,instead

its defective

to

wooden

gudgeons;
framing

In

for

back

to

cloth

motion, and

strong enough

by

will be

round, and

this

slipsover

and

position of

the

upon

be

The

motion.

motion,

slayis moving

forward.

uncommon,

of

in

be

to

will

motion

/ forward, /

depends

its action

wheel

slay moves

wheels

wheel

the

of catch

point

of

ratchet

driving

slay sword,

the

to

swinging

intermittent

an

when

ratchet

that

bolted

of

teeth

stud

allows

arm

effect

latter oscillates

k ; the

lever

on

slotted lever.
is

forward

ratchet

is

i will drive

entire train

motion
m

As

the

above

from

prevent taking-up. A

thus

pivoted

follows

catch

k, and

lift catch

h, extending

lever ; the

fork

weft

g is

turning

farthest

extremity

slot in its lower

wheel

rod

upon

its

at

against the

presses

contrivance

weft

keyed

of/;

surface

the

Two

is fixed.

prevent the ratchet

to

h carries

loom,

ratchet

shaft

freely upon

it is

directions;

fingerthat

of

g, i rest

holding catch

both

across

short

same

catches

or

simply
in

the

upon

383

MOTIONS

UP

its

of
to

the

drives

negatively.
set

when
at

that
the

pushing

cranks

are

each movement;

MECHANISM

384
if

than

more

less

than

clear

one,

tooth

tooth

one

be

raised.

about

^"

part

lowered

be

must

cranks

are

; if

g should

catch

Holding

the

when

VING

taken, stud

is

it must

by

WE

OF

back

the

on

centres.

pulling catch

fabric

than

forward

slip,because
from

the

shed

is

is

bottom

centres;

acts

the

back

when

pulling catch

stroke

of

tooth

about

Picks

the

with

the

in the

wheel

The

cranks

closer

at

the

at

the

to

the

teeth

in

clear

to

fabric
made

be

wheel

than

in

rotate

to

is done

one

forward

each

centres.

one

must

cranks

the

catch

front

; this

suitable

driver

is

from

part of

one

by making
of

the

train,

and

machine

independently upon

find
number

the

number
of

picks

of
per

velocityin
a

driven

proportion

merely

another

teeth

to

is

or

or

tion
proporone

that

its increased

conveys

without

motion

alteringthe

invariably works

wheel
stud

simple matter,

drivers, driven,

are

teeth ;

carrier
to

or

that, irrespective

increases

inverse

such

train

that

one

diameter

teeth;

is

clearlyunderstood

velocity in
or

wheels

position,wheels

or

diameter

of

tooth

holding

faster

of

of

its increased

decreases

given

and

open

with

together in

or

it is first

form

carriers.
to

one

taking-up beam

number

selection

their

To

being generallythe change pinion e.

if
especially

and

time

the front

quite

to

whereas

tooth

fix the

the

placed

over

take

to

slay, then

are

changes

drop

to

correspondingly slower

value

is

move

which

at

from

move

shed

and

centres,

another, hence

of

cranks

the

as

centres;

the cranks

or

it is less liable

only partiallyopen;

or

as

and

drawing

greatest.

Set

that

front

in

power

performed

the

closed

catch

on

pushing catch,

top towards
either

less

consume

taking-up

pushing
strain

will

loosely

shaft.

in any

change pinion for

\ inch, multiply the

teeth

in all

divide

together,and

wheels

driven

of

circumference

\ inch,

per

75, stud

together with
respectively,
has

wheel

100, ratchet

If

inch

per

of

wheel

beam

ratchet

teeth

50

circumference,

in

roller 15"

pinion 12, stud

75, stud

of

15"

beam

and
respectively,

teeth

50

picks

16

120, and

wheel

beam

train

required

required.

consistingof

wheel

stud

pinion 15,

the

by

the

picks

former

1, 2, the

trains

"

in

inches

Pinion

rT~
X

required to give

change pinions are

with

of

driving

x/

or
6" X

teeth in

the

roller,and

taking-up
hy.d

picks

3SS

by

number

the

wheel, multiplied by

MOTIONS

UP

TAKING'

XIX

in

circumference.
1

75x120x50

",,

31*25

,,
teeth

32*56

teeth

^,

"

-"

required.
^

15x60x16

75x100x50

--

"

"

"

,,

"^,,,

"

required.
^

12x60x16

31, and
has

either

the

and

teeth

31*25+1^ %
in the

placed in
ways

divided
The

the

pinion for

teeth, and

to be

used.

large

number

wheels

Where

32

say

in

of

by

the

constant

this

75x1

the

thus

make

in

which,

in

teeth

pinion.

50
",io/_

^^^

75x100x60

"

+
12x60

2C

1J%

are

in various

15x60

"

to

teeth

33

say

number,

constant

20

shortened

are

picksrequired,will give
for train

purpose

it

the

between

1^ %

similar

looms

frequently by finding a

requires

add

to

32*55+U

mill,calculations

same

length

in

it is usual

and

however,
practice,

In

teeth.

33

or

counter,

calculated

the

32

used, therefore

be

can

that cloth contracts

found

been

loom

numbers

whole

Only

628.

MECHANISM

386

VING

WEA

OF

part

507
507
Then

find

to

for

pinion

picks

16

=32

"

16

528

and

Inverse
of

in

will

wheel

33

also

be

thus

pinion;

-"

proportion may

teeth

what

if

used

20

16

find the

to

pinion gives

33

give 20 picks%

teeth.

33

: :

number

picks,

16

26, the number

required.
Simple

changing

as

risk

unnecessary
wheel

motion
that

of

wheel

driven

wheels

teeth

in

picks

inch

per

wheel

(the

in

36

second

pinion 24,

beam

wheel

15*05"

diameter.

In

such

the

of

36

in

driver,

required, as

corresponds with

the

number

wheel

is

change wheel),

the

respectively,and

wheel

24, first

89, third

pinion 15,
roller

cloth

89

SI

is

equals picks

7^

change

teeth

of

number

teeth

"

36x24x15x15-05

teeth

not

the

,
"

it is

that

stud

24x89x90
5^

too

of 5 wheels.

seldom

train

make

cases

instead

are

found

be

will

pinion

second

90

wrong

described

fabric; thus, ratchet

the
stud

first

pinion

in

changed

for

the

instance, it may

calculations

change

above

of 7 instead

be

may

selected

are

; for

train

putting

the

fabric.

this is done

when

of

employ

to

such

the

involves

is, it

calculation.

tooth

one

in

change

uncommon

of

of

from

with

met

alteration

an

great

and

be

to

are

the

variations

wheel

risk

"

making

in

minor

Many

trouble

and

trouble

on,

driving

TK

equal picks per

replaced by

per

equals picks per \

equals picks

903'

Arc

wheel

per

f inch;
inch

^^^^ S9

n7r^"

if

; and

inch.

of

one

by
if

The

27

li%
^
^"

90-3.

If

inch.

the

".

wheel

teeth, a change wheel

t6eth,

18

by

teeth,

number

of

change

wheel

change

wheel

teeth

in

each

TAKING'

XIX

being clearlystamped
frequent

motions

is found

side shaft
fixed

the

in the

of

manner

fabric

by

of bevels

means

change pinion

g, stud

this, as

in

to

other

loom;
drawn

floor

unless

the

worm

motion

pawl

when
weaver

is left to

for

to

wheel

/,

wheel

/,

depending
the

continues
the

weft

back
to

direction

being
is

chance

instance,

cloth is moved

consequence

the

6,

line,is

motion

pinion k^ beam

such

nothing

advantages
the

forward

worm

latter

in

wheels

essentially
positive in action,as slippingis

irrespectiveof
the

d,

applications,entirely upon

backwards

intermittents
manner,

to the

the

213.

velocityof

impossible, and

possesses
turned

other
It is

employed.
next

The

m.

c,

/i,stud

wheel

Fio.

beam

and

continuous

rightangles to picking shaft 6, and gives

at

and

In

driving.

214),inclined

and

and

intermittent

between

(Figs.213

of

not

are

376-380).

pp.

difference

main

surface, mistakes

its

upon

387

(seealso Keighley's positivelet-off

occurrence

take-up motions,
The

MOTIONS

UP

that

in
other

cloth

absent, and

disengages

with

act

of

the

if

is
cracks

; it

also

loom

is

it ; but

the

parts

in

same

of

frequently
are

duced,
pro-

taking-up wheels,

MECHANISM

388

and

thus

lets

OF

back

the

drag

motions

VINC

WEA

fabric

recommencing

before

to

weave.

Negative
of

most

them

the

forward

pushed
in

or

lever

and

pawl

forward

act

without

tention

must

weighting
decreasing
of

cloth

roller, or
fabric
away

made

is

of

diameter

of

warp,

with

positively.

and

from

the

beam

is

it would

so

be

in

and

to

he

the

in

uneven

at^

tive
relathe

or

diameter

drawn
fabrics
a

fabric

close

lever,

for
with

contact

full of

but

increasing

fabric

irregular

the

upon

weighted

weighted

draw

wheels

the

still in

fabric,

to

chiefly employed

are

the

weaver

and

the

cause

weft

the

beam,

injured by coming
where

change

by

warp

wheel

alike

until

slackened,

ratchet

bestowed

roller, will

be

upon

irregularly. They
would

fabric

employing

be

tight

reed, pulta warp

the

the

all act

not

held

is

warp

by

doing which,

do

away
that

roughened

thickness

places if

that
drawn

MECHANISM

390

produced,
breaks.

than

They

for

are,

however,

cloth

is

wound,

when

unnecessary

weft

set

for

difficultyincreases

in

difficult

more

the

part

to

open

portion
pro-

lightness.

applied

of

ie

letting-back

heavy fabrics,and
to

As

and

VING

WEA

OP

roller
and

to
a

to

fustian

and

(Pigs.215
which

velvet

and
worm

looms

the

216), upon
wheel

consist

parts

which

h is fixed.

the

fabric

short

TAKING-

XIX

shaft

carries

wheels

having compound

consistingof two,
Shaft

length.
h, and

upon

the

lower

collar

catch

When

the

other

and

of

number
and

to

picks

In

silk

taking-up motion
in the

end

cap

spring c,

the

it is

by

loose

; it is

latter
Points

and

adjusting piece

an

above-named

parts

Immediately
at

g\

the

drive

and

teeth

e,

are

another

one

ratchet

remaining
increase

be

taken

In

either

the

from

k,

case

the

control

the

from

pin

/
to

swivels
h

(Fig.217)
d

to

and

lever
catch

swing

g is moved

h, shown

with

wheels

slay.
a

resting

3, 4, and

the

the

upon

1, which, being compounded

pair of compounded

pin,

All

head.

T-shaped

and

constantly

respectivelyfulcrum

attached

at

To

of lever

arm

are

with

of

sufficiently

holding catches

by board

vertical

on.

in front

connected
of

that

reed

presses

against

then

keeps

reed, acting

practice to

common

kept

the

g^ and
e,

any

must

by

triaL

by

forward

of ratchet

added.

be

adjustable

k, lever

overcome

weight

its

slay'svibrations

movement.

it must

is made

looms

to

to

m;

slot, and

the fabric

forward,

inch

them

reduce

alteration

exact

placed

with

until

slackens

backward

per

the

the

tooth

suspended,

upon

is

slay sword

lifts stalk
a

lever

its forward

pulling ratchet

on

pulling catch

loaded

I, which

arm

any

slotted

collar

is in motion

pull ratchet

f prevent

^,

be

of

loom

weights

; at

the

through

to

latter,hooking

the

resistance

of

passes

accumulating weft,

enable

e,

parts named

the

upon

to

to

I, projectingfrom

purpose

the

transferred

base

stalk

the

71, for the

h.

catch

on

of

catches

slightlydifferingin

hold

to

ratchet

k, looselyjointed near

the

portion

all

fulcrum

stud,

stalk

arm

permits

as

are

slotted

weights

the

serves

two

J, and

holding

/ of three,

at

slightlyabove

rest

to

pendent

end;

are

and

latter

the

upon

g ;

391

with

c?,that gears

worm

/, both

e,

MOTIONS

UP

pin

upon

with

2,

4 gears

MECHANISM

392

with

yard

fixed

the

upon

shaft

VING

WEA

OF

of

PART

taking-up roller, one

in circumference.

It wiU

be

noticed

that

cloth

Fig.

when

the

forces

catch

spring
motion.

reed

is

li to

I contracts,

be

drawn

forward

217.

pushed back,
advance, but

only

can

for

as

pulls li forward,

at
moves

and

such

head

times
back

sets

the

helical
train

in

BOX

XX

To

the

increase

tightened,and

number

set-screw

it must

to

than

more

XX

made

and

before

the

adapt

to

checked

shuttle

one

slackened, by

MOTIONS

were

production of

the

be

be

must

c.

BOX

attempts

picks spring

them

PART

Several

393

of

diminish

to

suitablymoving

MOTIONS

other

power-loom

fabrics

successful

requiring

motion

was

obtained.
used

Cartwright

Dr.

each

large enough
and

by pushing
the

shuttle

proper
Another

and

race

shuttle

capable

into
third

the

outside

the

below

drop"

"

and

inverted

and
to

the

Luke

Smith

of

The

two
"

it to

most

of

board

race

apply

are

he

trived,
con-

of

shuttles

pivoted

was

move

picker.

series

above

the
a

inside

above

the

that

motion

the

shuttle

carried

placing its

to-day

all such

any

"

the

boxes.

hand-loom
of

Heywood

variety

of

by

Bury,

power-loom.

The

the

was

The

Both

detail, but

of

of

Kay

the

was
are

pin
have

known

invented

was

first to

latter

in 1843.

fulcrum

shuttles

former

Robert

boxes

methods

principlesof governing

revolving

shuttle

by fixing the

circle,and

; but

Diggle, also

considerable

shuttle, and

the

swinging

segment

applied

1760, but

ments,
compart-

position.

given place to
as

placed
of

into

pulling it automatically,to

circle,which

hold

to

in line with

inventor
of

segment

tray divided

flat

in

Bury

successfully
invented

now

by

found

two, drop boxes

varied.

ever-increasingnumber

of

in

difi'erent box

motions

34''

fin

sli.

to
Vc

til
of

tl
n

0
Q'

"

II

"

'.y

2"

iff

ifa^J-

BOX

The
for

details

special

furnished

been

two

Biggie

modified

but,

purposes,

with

essentiallyas

have

MOTIONS

or

more

left it

as

in

various

ways

generally applied

boxes

at

one

end,

it

to
to

fit it
looms

remains

MECHANISM

In

Figs.

218

and

OF

219

IVEA

motion

VING

part

obtained

is

wheel

from

keyed

tt,

of

teeth

as

but

as

thus

if

80

side

or

slide

with

the

broken

at

and

of

from

break

each

The

two

each

sided

and

nil

taking

into

notches

and

make

second

of

framing,
centre

is

line

with

the

2Ifl.

picker, and

to

the

bring

others

are

it

in

to

every
is

ported
sup-

the

fixed

which
is

end
at

its

of

thick

top

thickened

the

links
the

thickness,

being
the

less
end-

an

passed

composed

varying

thinnest

the

eight-sided chain

/, round

latter

Fio.

has

by

of

one

stud

and

chain

of

motion,

Star

it

give

revolution

an

barrel

ary,
station-

studs

pick.
on

eight-

causing

jects.
prothe

an

intermittent

an

wheel
the

serves

holding

star

centre

stud

slide

of

purpose

'y\ jl^W

the

is

phery,
peri-

points exactly opposite

other,

a,

inner

concentric

cast

times

the

flange

wheel

then

Upon

teeth.

tremity
ex-

shaft,

slide

four

teeth,

20

of

crank
a

S, containing
many

the

near

the

drives

which

pinion

enough

shuttle
to

in

bring

MECHANISM

398

Smith's

In

Mark

18.W

modification
for
with

in

the

of

short

introduced

original

great

Digglo's invention,

fitted

parts added

loosely on

variety

and

but

added
a

slide

pieces

wheel

grooves

in

its

boss.

The

patterns

other

defects

to

holes

of

permit

link

necessary.

{Figs. 220
but

of

part

every

became

stud,

rotating by pieces passing through

entering

touch

ment
arrange-

of

length

retained

change

important

most

excellent

an

not

slidingblock

area

the

docs

Smith

remaining stationary until

The

is

cliain, but

motion.

which

Digglc'schain,

box

part

Modikicatios

Smith

producing

VING

WEA

OF

and

221),

kept constantly
wheel

in

pieces

so

and

protruding

MOTIONS

BOX

XX

ordinary pins

carry

slidingmotion
of the

by

barrel

stud

its

formed

on

c,

side

one

slide wheel

the

of

the

hinged
a

link

fixed

parts of d^ and
chief

/,

arrangement
the

octagonal

forward

card

barrel
A

partiallyrotate.
the

shaft

of

object

of A

to

so

end

with

but

on

i is moved

alternate

picks

of e^ and
of

c^,

by

out

rTi

block

h and

elevate

the

to

vertical

the

wheel

i is

lever

g,

latter

by

feeler

^,

above

when

way

slide wheel

an

h, is

secured

y, that

to
on

forms

boss.

pick
a

near

cam

immediately

star

with

in

take

to

as

second

every

is to

connected

part of the principalslide wheel

Wheel

has

II 1

it lever

cam

out

engage

vibrate

221.

rightangles to J, and

at

on

takes

II

take

to

is thrust

I II

but

is done

to

face of

the

moving

Z" is free

the

rolling against

Fig.

full

reach

This

rti

the

of

extremity

Arm

a.

and

part of the framing, and

upper

bowl

of

boss

of

intervals.

its lower

at

m^

out

question

long

at

6, forked
in the

in the

centre

becomes

wheel

star

withdrawn

be

to

frequentlyor
lever

the

driving

them

It thus

ring groove

a
a

on

vertical

into

allows

notches.

chain

I for

399

loom

in

pick

with

and

boxes

pick loom,
at

one

side

MECHANISM

400

only, to place
the

keeps

m,

and

feeler

takes

place

Spring A;,attached
in

one

when

the

Where

to

acting

dobby

links; indeed,

this method
time

in

with

the

also

is used

lay

the

of

the

has

obviously many

similar

the

the

on

shedding

chain

of

eminent
does

country

the

thin

firms

of

use

not

shuttle boxes,
motion

shedding

advantages,such

saving

as

weaver's

simplifyingthe

of

wheel

card

as

most

from

changes

number

hole

star

to

with

contact

this

and

and

up,

wheel, but

descriptionfor moving

loom

boxes.

to

all

the

reducing

holds

lift it.

to

in

of any

gaitinga

part

in ", and

in

least

manufacturers

works

in the

necessary
at

one

separate chain
but

star

Jacquard

or

motion, it is seldom

cotton

the

pin

framing, holds
d is not

cam

blank

fall,the pins I then engage

change

VING

g,

from

driving pins

it to

permits

WEA

stripsof perforated steel,called cards,

thin

under

successively

OF

task

by

parts requiring adjustment after

unweaving.
A

is

method

common

very

substitute

to

for

swivellingplate,upon
rests, then
hook
and
A

in

when

the

the

the

is to be

plate,thus

spiralspring takes

the

Swiss
several

invention

gf

loom-makers,

but

Jacquard.

In

It
5 box

3, 4, 6 (Fig. 222), are

is

and

barrel

now

is worked

in the

boxes,

attached

cord

free

to

g
a

it

fall.

to

Box

the

well-known

made
on

in

this

similar

loom, five long slotted

threaded

flat

again.

Drop

of

feeler

made
a

ism
mechan-

of which

leaving feeler

member

machinists.

lifts

plate back

Honegger's

is the

surface

upper

motion

shedding

withdraws

wheel

star

change

actuating Smith's

of

upon

stud

firm

country
lines
hooks

to

of

by
the

1, 2,

J, projecting

BOX

from

the

five

needles

on

cards

rotary

for
is

every

passed

on

alternate
the

needle

it ;

one,

"

the

picks, and
points ;
2d

of

one

project beyond

cylinder/

and

by

governed

which

needle,
over

ia

each

of

tour-sided

horizontal

against

c, and

points

and

revolution

the

e.

face

each

steel

card

d,

frame

needle

lever

rod

spear

MOTIONS

two

the

perforation

of

paper

movements

former

therefore

chain

has

has

if

of

presses
blank

or

"

equals ^
latter

place

MECHANISM

402

is

opposite

bar

equal

h acts

cam

to

is

lift of

immediately
the

needles
but

hooks,
with

stud

equal

to

four

back

pushed

stepped

once

they

they

are

of

lifted

to

the

change

top.

back

has

into

be

made

it

does

If

in

all

the
be

with

then

bottom

that
I

only

purpose

with

the

when

on

j,

the

permit

and

boxes

hook

picker

from
with

when

and

so

The

provided

board.

the

bowl

moving

are

boxes

made,

width,

box

hooks

to

by

slots

3,

race

from

to

therefore

the

is to

level

is

is made

enough

box

it

as

all vertical

position;

lock

contact

level.

top

of

some

large enough

with

varied

far

just

the

to

in

level

change

are

of

boxes

two.

spiral
a

back

mences
com-

respectively

piece protruding

required

place

This

be

come

latter

it

four

five

will

pieces

will

is to

serves

the

by

Such

box

motion

hold

in

and

1, box

and

two

space

Connection

drilled

and

until

unlocked

they

fall

to

one

^.

three,

two,

lifted

are

through

pushed

ones.

hole

place

plate j

hook.

push

box

has

in

once

upward

it takes

stud

down

3, 2, 1, 5, have

one,

three

2, box

and

will

its

inclined

Hooks

lift of

boxes

simply

h.

lifted

when

has

receive

rod

by

part of

upper

shaft, and

ascending

all

the

and

up

cylinder /

in

leaves

boxes
Hook

and

part

fulcrum.

bottom

four

VING

back

moved

the

on

WE

push

the

as

griffe

or

picks by

it will

needle,

stud

for

hook,

OF

when

bottom
the

to

broadest

projection.
Honegger's

motion
in action

it is

negative

and

high speeds

cards

has
;

cannot

long pattern

chains

some

the
be

boxes
attained

become

of

the

fall
;

by

but

faults

their
with

possible.

of
own

paper

Diggle's

weight,
or

steel

MOTIONS

BOX

XX

Chain

Knowles's

elsewhere

As
shuttle

box

worked

by

see

similar

Dobby

of this

parts.

Shedding,

and

four

move

employed
two

operate
and
passes
over

boxes*

round

and

under

which

223.

boxes,

vibrator

two

shedding,

second.

descriptionof

and

p. 113.

levers a, h
the

of

in

is all connected

full

precisely similar

connectors,

those

shedding, picking, and

loom

For

Fig.

To

the

mentioned,

mechanism

403

chain

flanged pulley

and

The

being

c, fixed

g, which

guide pulleys/,

form

used.

are

(Fig.223)
A

in

levers,

and

is

of the
to

action

first

h at

to

to

connectors

the

order,

point d^

suspended

thence

gears,

from

a,

shuttle

MECHANISM

404

WE

OF

VING

PART

it is

By relativelyalteringthe positions of d^ e
to

move

In

Fig.

shuttles

of four

one

any

224

a\

gears

Fio.

to

readily explain

more

them

in

as

d,
the

of

are

the

picker.
side

placed

by

side

224.

their

action, instead

of

leaving

loom.

top box

The

right

h'

to

possible

wheel
close

are

as

pin

of h' to

is level when

centres,
as

it is

as

both
shown

crank
in

pins

division

possibleto place them.

the left of its centre, number

are

on

the

1, for then

By moving
2

box

will

MECHANISM

4o6

anything
the

thus

goes

connection

ruck

pinion, and
Two

between

prevented.

back, tho

with

wrong

the

WBAVIXG

OF

the
them

picking motion,
is

By liftinghandle

on

rod

wt

shuttle

long apiral springs

is

boxes
are

pa"t

severed,

used

and

21, spring

moved
can

out
be
to

of

contracts,

smash

is

gear

balance

the

forced

with

adjusted by

is

its

hand.

boxes;

BOX

XX

both

hooked

are

pulley

then

Oy

rack

of

MOTIONS

into
is

'p

407

connected

/, whilst

to
to

q^ goes

round

passing

strap

bracket

fixed

flanged
the

on

stud

foot
the

near

floor.

An

eight-sidedcard

crank
it

lever s, and

by

eccentric

an

spring i

bolted

eccentric
with
of

has

keyed
the

to

eccentric

pushes

supported

on

under

slotted

lever

up

of

side

arm

given

The

provided

the

as

is forced

is

to

flat

s'.

arm

that

u^

rests, so

barrel

w,

horizontal

bell-

tappet shaft, and

the

upon

which

t?, upon

is

negative vibratingmotion

strap carries

lug

barrel

out;

full side
its

but

"CG

Fio.

inward

depends

traverse

the

under

to

cany

side

of

lug

support

flat

immediately
the end
extends
in

extremity

fork

the weft

stud
goes

the
the

lever

loom,

rocking

piece that

on

connects

of

cases

and

s' passes

arm

down

the

to

tinues
con-

to

sliding rod

and

end

rotating

Resting

; it carries

it with

freely to

bottom

from

is moved.

parallelwith
shaft

force

r.

w;, set-screwed

arm

an

across

of

except in

object of stopping barrel

rail is

front

i*

sufficient

is overcome,

moving

piece ia',that

the

rail,with

slot of

the

Through

have

giving way,

without

descend

pull of spring / against

should

i;, which

its resistance

obstruction, when
to

the

upon

without

forward

226.

upon
that

immediately
at

its

opposite

pattern handle

ic,

MECHANISM

4o8

OF

placed alongside the

the latter

but

the

PART

setting-on handle;

both

moves

VING

WEA

their

into

without

its notch
this

x;

^^6

by hand

loom

loose

pulley.

fork

lever

But

acts,
and

drop

can

227.

lantern

prevents it from

thus

Five

together

suitable

of

the

clips,shown

detached

from

fallingoff.

This

227), and

and

of

movement

needles

or

are

guided

Needles
to

upon
arm

the

causes

barrel

and

r,

chain

the

(seeFig. 229)

by rings

bands

3,

is

better

or,

taking

are

into

small
still,

(Fig.230), prevent rings 2

at

barrel

passed round

(Figs.

rotary

bracket.

are

jointed

top of upright shaft

to
a

to

9, that also

grooved piece 11

projectingpiece

therefore, if either 5
9

in the

stud

228.

piece 8, set-screwed

10, hinged

g ;

pawl

before three

in

latter receives
rack

in its forward

Fig.

swivel

u\

under

5, 6, 7, which

and

moves

presents each

card in succession
rods

over

chain

rubber

steel

225

rod

arm

before

of

flat steel cards

form

to

and

grooves,

weft

rotating.

different kinds

fastened

the

on

extra

barrel

arrests

when

if the

movement
Fig.

is

an

forward, places
and

to

weaver

driving strap

pushes

from

influencing

allows

the

turn

taneously,
simul-

removed

be

can

upon

notches

retaining

starting handle

^^^g*^

bracket

partiallyrotate,

or

and

; the

from

7 is

carries

the

groove
inner

pushed back,

10, 11

to

second
of

the

arm

either

of

swivels,

pull

or

BOX

XX

push

the racks

upward

next
or

of

one

MOTIONS

g into
of

movement

409

with

gear

g will

pinion

take

shuttle

one

box

6 has

pushed back,

inclined

an

12

acts

12 fixed

piece

13, mounted

aim

upon

it,and

to

when

tube

on

14,

o,"OQ)0(m

O"O0

"o"o

.""

"o

"

o"

the

through
vibrate

end of tube
and
ft,

movement

centre

; in

pushes h
to

that

so,

into

under

forked

or

9 passes,
arm

ring groove
bowl

^, thus

^, and

lever g, rack
either

^J

229.

shaft

of which

doing

14, takes

'^

"
Fig.

cam

up

down.
Needle

to

the

so

is

the

pushed

5,

and

causes

the

near

in the boss

of

it

lower

sliding

imparting additional
shuttle

back

boxes, presuming
with

6.

To

MECHANISM

4IO

prevent this motion

from

against the

end

forward

needle

After

to

this is

Fig. 227;

of lever

against the

in its normal

Two

card

r(, so

as

found

pegs

of the

on

h with

pattern chain

three

effects

of

with

back

push
230.

needles

and

barrel

r.

barrel

the

i\ of
lever

will lift two

has

disc

moves

to

and

20

pawl

and

the

1 to
same

card

be

can

If

pins, each

none

card

and

disc

fixed

does

assume

does

presented
equals

to

not

of the holes

of

picks;

of

which,

as

and
of

adjustable
frame.

the
a

not

certain

in disc

18

axle

movement

series

act, consequently barrel

of times.
screw

lantern

box,

middle

pegs,

backward

pins impinge against stop

this occurs,

one

caught by pawl 19,

each

at

opposite side

the

twelve

face

fro, are

is made

two

lift one,

the

loosely upon

one

on

ward
up-

middle
; if

chain,

pattern

is mounted

228)

boxes.

the

economise

drop, and

will

18

for

with

boxes

drop

to

needle, to

needle

of

Whenever

number

two

This

On

s.

screw

moved

revolution

outside
inside

to

(Figs.227

the

an

lifts

holes

; hence

one

; card

produces

large

the

are

holes

boxes, d sinks

two

p^gi^ \y^j(^

needles

order

In

hold

small

the

change

no

hole

two

box, and / sinks

inside

needle

keep

of barrel

face

single large

boxes;

and

similar

exactly opposite the needles.

movement

outside

helical

and

to

(Fig.229) by

large holes

with

Fio.

piece 12,

at

pieces 16,

which

on

forward,

every

bring the largeones

to

card

of

card,

position.

metal

each

17,

it

push

by

curved

two

hammer

rear

18' press

position shown

level

accomplished by

to

back

pushed

the

pressingagainsta T-shaped
spring presses

part

e.

been

assume

spring constantly acts

VING

being jerky,flat springs

7 has

or

made

be

it must

WE

OF

18

position
revolve,
definite
are

filled

if alternate

BOX

XX

holes

missed,

one

equals

it

picks;

eleven

is

the

the

of

boxes,

is to

change

box

when

be

or

be

can

not

are

and

developed

working drop
eccentrics

more

moved

being

the

larger,one

of

of

one

picker in
there

admit

All

is

method

smaller
boxes.

two

four

boxes

the

one

or

the

could

"

any

numbers.

aid

of

throw

duced
intro-

of

other, and

be

two

If

two

box, and

one

or

capable of

instantlymoved

to

of

entirelydevoid
for

in

this

makers,
be

As

motion.
each

are

the

of

face

the

jerking.

purpose,

but

the

best

to

consequence,
whom

employs

made.

the circumstances, it will not

best known

the

divergence of opinion as
of

arrangement

conjointly.

of eccentrics

setting them

specialmechanism,

those

of

By suitably manipulating them,

way,

value

list

can

steady, easy

fairly numerous
Under

has

considerable

of

inside

one

of

Whitesmith

1870

positivelyby

independently

employed,

any

boxes

; and

picks

theoreticallycorrect

placed

the

one

Motion

and

1857

only

picks

two

multiplesof

Eccentric

years

when

movement

useless where

or

is not

of contact

; but

any

where

pattern

picker

out

moves

at

can

of its box

out

smashes

skipped

the

if the

12

picks.

motion

positive;

rod

missed,

24

Shaw's

filled,

equals

it

equals

is half

spear

4, 6, 8, 12, 24,

the

Between

it

; and

required, also

are

The

the

the

made,

series

single colour

for

shuttle

is

breaks

weft
if

It

"

card-savingappliance is

colour

missed,

driving pinion to prevent

the

filled,
one

shortcomings of
:

holes

two

three

missed,

follows

as

stopped

clear of the

with

filled,
one

up

picks ;

filled,one

five

advantages and

chain

equals

411

equals 6 picks;

picks;

summed

be

card

and

The

card

filled,a

are

MOTIONS

namely,

that

made

be amiss

to describe

by Hacking

"

Co.

and

Figs. 231, 232,

invention.

the

OF

MECHANISM

412

crank

gearing

Ab

in

shaft
with

233

(VEA

show

Diggle's chain,

by
stud

pinion
wheel

VING

part

different

the

in

parts

this

are

caee

their

of

views

driven

of

18

from

teeth,

'b

of

36

teeth,

which

at

one

MECHANISM

4M

Other
are

bj

needles

formed

in the

and

OF

grooTed

bosses

WEA

VIXG

the

combined;

cams

of p^

PART

wheeLs

k^ and

Fire
the

inside

to

when

wheel

wheel

peg
the

on

teeth, and

as

one

cast

each

of

serve

cards.

are

p^s

the

into
blank

by

grooves

former

the

poshed

are

ktter

other,

proaches
apare

capable of driving one

both

wheels

star

will be

moved

the

card

in

each

is

The
on

star

enclosed

wheel

the

smaller
the

peg

to

exactly coincide

wheel, and

of the surface

before

of k must

with

the

change

the

be

presented

at

locking

made,

to

that of p.

two

opposite

surface

be

on

larger

disc,with
out

extend

the
A

teeth,

10

they

left.

full curved
can

of

right,on

pieces cut
sides

with

locking platep

plate is

283.

by

eccentric

compounded

to

Fig.

Each

and

to

it,and

encloses

strap.

is

spindle, the

is in its turn

is

on

eccentric

large one

will

only.

small

loose

blank

change

side

that

opposite

needle

one

produce

blank

needle, but

opposite

Both

o.

if

or

of the

thin

part

BOX

XX

If

from

moved

slow
The
a

wheel

peg

at the

spear

free

to

the

wedge

of

and

box

motions

is

jammed

shuttle

connection, and

permits the

end

of

pulled by

levers

in

middle.

in the

fastened

and

move

notched

piece

spring u

upon

box,

the

when

one

as

but

working properly;

to

parallellever t,supporting
consists

are

city,
velo-

varying

is

eccentric

is connected

at its forward

of ^,but

both

so

r,

at

q, which

rod

slip catch

groove

its

end, quick

longer and

The

slide in

picking
case

to

rod.

the

and

wedge-shaped

wheel,

another

to

centre

415

star

strap carries

slipcatch

on

beginning

eccentric

short lever r,

by

acts

dead

one

MOTIONS

the

stretches, severs

eccentrics

to

the

without

move

in

boxes.

the

enable

To

serves

as

to

each

the

second

box

side

box

be

of

the

both

eccentrics

in

move

into

the small
is

the

the

sides

are

needle

read

to

To

top.

makes

The

up.

without

the

blank

in all the

first

fourth

is, that

results.

second
in

chain

as

cards

similar

dissimilar

will be

the

thin

requires the

is

card

will lift the box, but if the

occurs

place

up.

only,

boxes

race

the

and

box

be

the

with

motion

level, and

last,the

eccentrics, and

impossible,to

the

produce

is

of

third

direction

one

originalpositions. This
of

at the

side

picking position,a

eccentric

exactly like

the framing

possible relations

all

are

side of

thick

instance, if the top box

move

possible,a

upon

is level

The

thin

parts of the chain

different

thick

practicalobjection to

One

to

and

uppermost

when

in

top box

level, the

of h and

is level

the

sides

thin

thick

lever and

rod

eccentrics

when

other;

of h must

side

the

shows

the

board,

light as

as

balance.

Fig. 233

work

to

the spear

into

hooked

spring V

motion

dropped

the
at

For

required
opposite
next

link

to

their

varying positions
or
difficult,

rather

noticingtheir positions.

MECHANISM

4i6

CowBURN

In

in which

the

the

form

valuable

central

pinion formed
and

236)

the

movement

hinged

is

drilled

flanges to
take
it

upon
and

smash

crank

li and

lower

parts of

two

y, Iz are

from

the

rest

against the

Z,m

(Fig.236).

; and

disc

card
the

dead

half

centre

moves

rack

disc's

motion

of

by

the

shuttle
and

spear

end

in such

rod

of g the
manner

horizontal
a

one

disc

as

not

that

racks

the

crank

pinion

upon

ever
when-

of

h
in

or

the

descend,

it must

direction, and
carry

needles

against which

needle

depends

When

base,

adjustable

an

outer

two

with

in

to

its

pinions d by gravitation

only made

another.

the

the

at

up.

stud

centred

is

revolution
to

At

back

two

are

the

on

e,

is threaded

case

moves

e
a

engages

pushes

contact

as

always

exactly

as

disc

ends

rear

arm

spring contracts,

on

i.

an

at

In

to

passes

is screwed

e.

c, with

pin

On

/.

connections

racks

and

rack

the

its

shoulder

flange on

constantlyrocked

fall away

it rests, hence

crank

spring

contingency

they

blank

and

equal

supports

lever

upon

Similar

that

rest

connecting rod

rod

down

similar

g is

Cradle

to

moves

throw

of 6

it also

has

(Figs.234, 235,

e';the latter

rod

bottom

prevented.

provide for

give

spear

receive

againstthe

is

to

adjusting nuts,

two

trapped, as

in disc

the

to

long enough

bear

is

slot

discs.

two

framing, and

one

end

eccentrics

using ordinary

boxes, is looselyfitted,and

two

which

to

in the

the

On

xx

motion

and

outer

5, fixed

box.

one

of

crank

stud

The

stud

of

freelythrough

top

on

its boss.

on

carries

of

throw

instead

double

disc is free to turn

Each

introduced

Whitesmith's

propertiesof

employ

part

Motion

inventors

feature, but

eccentrics, they

VING

Peck's

"

the above-named

1889

WEA

OF

from

make
one

action, each

PART

BOX

XX

disc

ia locked

force

keep

the

boxes

into

the

uppermost

sides

until

of
a

the

to

disc's
is

change
of

movement

catch

419

to

catches

opposite

MOTIONS

be

needle

lift its
upper

end

of

bears
clear

the

on

that

cut

is thus

then

and

made,

springB

notches

two

Vibration

rims.

to

flat

atendy by

vented
pre-

the

lower

at

ward
backend

of

retaining notch.

of the

n^
HM

end

outer
to

the

of its

against a

Barrel

also

s,

by

bowl

is rotated

that

cam

j,

carries

supported

with

of

one

the

on

the

upon

stud

bottom

the

on

wheel

star

is oscillated
f

by

engages

crank

barrel

shaft, and

framing, by

presses

pawl

card

four-sided

lower

two

pins

in

notches

of

star

(Fig. 234) keyed

upon

lever

on

the

secured

shaft, which
end
an

of

L-shaped

wheel
g,

arm

the

f, and

pin

of

MECHANISM

420

which

through

passes

the necessary

Any

box

top box

is in

number

if h and

is level with

round

which

consists

of wooden

chain

handkerchiefs, when
at

from

the

middle

thick

lag

followed

the

two

with

few

occasionallyused

they

thick

just

are

barrel

does

vibrations

of barrel

real

any

gain

reduction
cost

of

the

to

in

Lags

and

Barrel

ii

reversed

is

the

of

is

of

engaging

end

by cradle

g, whenever

the

or

A
of

weave

thickness
such
of

cases

pawl

consequence

pattern chain
successive

more

of

use

links

steel
of

middle

is

the

needle

lags, for

purchased
latter

at

being

the
far

the former.

pattern chain

accomplished by
with

such

lags,the

than

when

this

the inner

card.

moved

forward

direction

pins
as

of

two

on

unmanageable

only

link

one

lags are

versd.

in

both

lags
and

possibleto

tyy, then

corresponding increase

the

v,

is,however, questionablewhether

from

number

vke

of medium

move

this

scarves

thin

or

economisers;

wheels

It

results

the

bulky

blank

cards.

needles

o.

for

reverses

to

of

The

passed.

and

links,

one

link

number

pattern chain

becomes

as

star

is

it thus

rotate, and

not

presented

thin

down,

lattice barrel

thick

the

carry

enough

with

of contact

out

chain, and

pattern

long patterns

be

by

left

features

best

lags %

border

the

to

"

their top centres, the

on

consecutive

two

centres, the

down,

blank, except

points to

necessary

more

and

hexagonal

follows

as

and

up

of the

one

give

to

board.

race

of

alternatelypegged

are

is

is

race

and

both

are

the

link-savingmotion
It

are

is up

pawl.

their bottom

on

of

arm

the

If h is turned

If

part

the lower
to

both

is level.

invention.

VING

the shuttle

to

are

position.

box

box

crank

level,and

bottom

slot in

be taken

can

h and

is

WE

vibratingmovement

If stud

box

OF

third
w

has

pinion wheel

to

upon

rack v, also rocked

is

pushed

back

by

MECHANISM

422

OF

For

From

bot

box

to

"

""

*'

ft

""

"

f*

""

box.

t
M

'

II

"i

box

to

II

box.

I
""

II

If

"I

4
6

II

box

to

II

4
II

6
9

box.
ti

,t

II

II

II

II

"f

II

i"

II

box

to

"t

From

'

box.
""

;""

II

II

11

II

II

"

i"

box

to

6
1

""

From

oooor

ra

5
6

""

tt

3
6

From

to

II

box.

"i

""

3
*

box

II

box.

From

Boxes

"

From

VING

""

5
6

..

From

"

tf

to

Six

WE

box*

""

f*

If

I*

I*

"I

II

.1

II

""

KcwKf

to

wacf Old

bo

Mstcnod

to

die

end

oT

requked for reveniBi^

Pig.

238.

PART

BOX

XX

cylindricalbar

movement

pin

upper
in

w\

elevate

lags

the

out

of

chain

barrel

other

on

in

turn

direction
The

boss

difficulties

for

if star

is made

one

on

eccentrics, as

wanting

circular

to

in

shuttles

pin

is connected
barrel

to

shaft, the

barrel

will

in the

other

each

however,

in

they

and

colour

tends

system

and

pattern

clearly

are

238).

not

with

met

in

chambers

much

"o

not

but

use,

one

in

backward

or

twelve
is
or

complication

as

of the

strikingrange

skipping
to

is

formed

single box

of

Shaw's,

forward

into

cases

capable

reading

the

steadilygaining ground.

are

general

most

shuttles, and

Yorkshire, evidence

moved

are

in

In

the

six

Boxes

arranged

are

are

uncommon.

but

lower

with

have

as

cylinder,and

shuttles

are,

and

laying

boxes

that

prove

to take

Six

puts the

driver, and

compared

Lancashire

in

wooden

the

the

accompanying Figs.(237

Although

The

lateral

takes

consequence,

four

Circular

favour

the

as

so

latter

t is the

for

experienced

in the

shown

the

As

y.

imparts

^, and

lever ic, and

rests

if y drives.
motion

chain

of

direction

one

star

needles,

lever 5, and

star

by pinions,

of

arm

pawl

with

the

bell-crank

of

second

the

to

shaft
gear

423

parallel with

vertical

the

to

with

gear

w\

it is bolted

lag ;

upon

MOTIONS

quired,
re-

picker.
not

are

moved,

some

shuttles,

more

and

imperfect

working.
cylinder a (Figs.239

The

hoop

h at

end.

Upon

forward
c

arranged

pegs,
also

the

star

wheel

in

end,

disc

circular
e,

and
is

and

240)

by

fitted

form,

against the

as

is

supported by

spindlec

at

containing
there

under

as

outer

many

boxes,

are

side

the

of

which

and
an

ordinary spring
Two

long

disc

pin

vertical

hooks

bowl

At

the

the

knuckle

flat

by

bent

levers

and

they

k is oscillated
bottom

joint

on

shaft,
is

pass

that

made,

and

of

through
in the

turns
a

into

with

end

pin

h
sides

i, each

other

the

At

true.

springs

opposite

at

bend.

boxes

the

hold

engage
on

hinged,

are

Lever
on

m,

cam

n.

and

VING

to

forced

are

centred

near

WEA

preBses

pegs,

are

I.

h and

/,

the

they

fulcrum

levers

hammer

hooks

with

contact

by

OF

MECHANISM

424

of
its

i two

slots

in

framing

against

spii'al
spring

BOX

XX

stretched

above

it
when

straight,except
the

the

cam

upon

framing by

barrel

to

shuttle

prevent
the

on

is

bottom

An

case

L-shaped
is held

; it

supports

lever

in which

trapped ;
shaft

the

keep

to

smash.

bracket, and

425

enough

strong
a

joint givesway

t rests

bar

against

octagonal card

an

5.

The

full

down

by

part of

spring hammer

pullsat

shaft

revolution

fastened

it is

bar

to

pulled

above

its

wheel

the

on

give |^ of

to
to

ing
hang-

w^

framing,

upper

star

barrel, but

keeps

catch

the

from

the

up

ing.
also to the fram-

steady, and

barrel

pushes

spiral spring

bearing, and

is

MOTIONS

it

as

moves

down.
barrel

Card
to

have

and
blank

its

highest point

card

pushes
Z,that

levers

two

up
the

vertical feelers q^ on
crank

seen

vertical movement,

at

is thus

belldiately
imme-

are

Fig.

the

above
thrusts

chain, and
h

boxes

hooks

back

perforation in

with

hook

the

over

together; they

end

of
The

i, and

parts, A,

entirely upon
boxes

thus

will

move

from

barrel
solid

s /

in

part of lever

y, and

permits

this leaves

rear

hook

c[ stationary,

Z,g

all

are

feeler

and

depress

^ to

or

turn

duplicated,so

is left horizontal

backward.

the

feeler to

part of ^, consequently both

the

or

solid

misses

card

and

pull down

forward

the

movement

hole

one

elevate

t, y,

which

upward

unaltered,but

are

enter

up

pattern

the latter in its next

240.

the

forward

the
it

go

boxes.

depends

whether

the

MECHANISM

426
A

spring hammer

boxes

from

moving

One

of the

boxes

spring
Stops

that

Zy

y into

the

the

at the

proper

boxes

An
for

fixed

attachment

crank

levers

the

if

1, fitted

by

helical

extremities.

hooks

d^ and

checks

the

through

slot

piece 3, beneath

off lever

pushes j

sists
con-

mittent
(see Inter-

breaks, the

weft

Immediately

One

breaks.

finger rod

passes

horizontal

/ and

revolving box-looms

weft

on

Motion),

3 elevates
oscillates,

y,

operation,when

disc

on

catches

drawing

into

most

on

chain

supports

Z.

of the

pins

is

place.
found

arm

Taking- up
upright 2, and

the

kind

opposite sides

at

lower

brought

shuttle

some

the top

at

curves

of

path
is

extra

an

and

their

at

inner

stopping the pattern

of

below

either of the latter is

it thrusts

the

small

two

uses

them

connects

part

stop of

pulled apart

are

againstthe

y rest

until

/, ^,

both

maker

pin

VING

far,hence

too

swivellingon

WE

sufficient to prevent

is not

invariably added.
each

OF

in

bellrod

finger

thus

stopping

boxes

boxes.
A

keep

curved

the

plate is

shuttles

back

the

as

the

contrivance

each

at

position

rollers

cone-shaped
tips

in

fixed

the

push
boxes

of

the

not

in

use,

ends

outer

of

Without

move.

could

boxes

when

end

not

moved

be

to

and

two

the

shuttle

some

such
all

freely at

times.

with

Compared

the

increase

in

decrease

in the

number

the

them

other

on

side, and

fixed,or

of

velocity of

rotary, the weight

on

drop boxes,

one

rebound, high speeds are

They
extent

have,

however,

counterbalance

the

advantages
does

boxes
a

in

the
all

required

; also

an

as

being

movement

cylinderbalances

power
cases

that

are,

necessitate

not

loom, for the

side of the

leaves

nearly so,

the

to

there

that
move

is

no

practicable.
disadvantages, which
advantages.

In

the

to

first

some

place,

TEMPLES

XXI

loose

reed

finger and

swell

point where
manifest

its

too

far.

the

on

the

be

cannot

is

For

act.

which

is

PART

it is

reason

made.

tendency

the

presented at

checking apparatus

certainty,there

in

shuttle,whereas

of its side

finger would

heavy cloth

ordinary stop-rod

an

side of

top instead

unless

Again,
with

act

the

that

and

essential, because

is

revolving box,

427

suddenly,

acts

to

carry

the

in

width

is

boxes

XXI
'

TEMPLES

The

tendency
due

and

since

done, owing
the

at

of

upon

to

be

is

bent

weft

than

given off,but
weft
that

contract

to

be

cannot

the

across

piece

considerable
fabric

face
sur-

straightone,

this

all

and

top

its entire
a

as

upon

straightweft

upon

longer

instant, it follows

by

bear

pally
princi-

that

from

cornigationsalong

closing upon

warp

but

warp,

threads

warp

thread

bent

should

same

is exerted

strain

When

series

material

extra

contract

to

change places,they

produce
;

tensile

affects it.

sheds

bottom
and

the

to

also

weft

for cloth

in the

pull
tion
direc-

of its width.

Temples
during

the

threads

from

employed

are

operation
being

being injured by

of

broken

the

were

century
and

many

cotton

so

the

and

so

reed, and

back

date

to

imperfectlyconstructed

elapsed
even

weaving,
by

this

counteract

tendency
side

prevent
the

reed

from

warp.

Self-acting temples
time, but

to

before

then

fabrics

Dr.
that

Cartwright's
nearly

anything satisfactorywas

they

not

were

continued

to

be

generally used,
woven

within

half

tained,
obfor

the

MECHANISM

438
last

OF

hand.

by

exceptional

wooden

the

present

cotton

loom

At

find

to

with

twenty-five years

moved

WE

VING

part

that

temples

were

without

is

it

time, however,

self-acting

temple.
They

are

becomes
for

made

now

description.

temples,inclined
The

trough

hold

iron

the

across

out

length,with
the

in

the

flutes
thread

handed
whilst
other

cut

side.

freelywithout
the

touching

as

reed.

springs d^ bolted
of

in

round

the

this

passing
under

of

amount

the

bite

fabric

temple

4"

about

The
the

front

amongst

side
is

at

adapted

by
a

have

form

the
as

of the

left-

those

the

at

edge

loom,

of the

work

in

so

is

edge,
and

long

two

case

doing damage.
the

raising the
heavy

turn

possiblewithout

without

a,

its

sharp teeth,

front

sharp angle ;
for

KoUer

centre, and

supported by

trough

roller

obtained

is bent

is not

of

also

are

position should

fell

is

rail

the

over

at the

is cut

whole

hollowed

throughout

to

cloth

extends

roller.

them

in

circular
semi-

that

plain piece

fixed

the

of

holes

is fluted

it

to

years

ends

the

the

and

nipper

bolt

above

caps

trap, the temple will roll back

Cloth,

until

to

near

self-

the

touching the trough,and

is moved

latter

roller

roller when

oldest

(Fig. 241),

for

thread

"

the

for many

portions of

amongst

side

It consists

side of the

one

with

roller

the

has

of

many

three

means

used

diameter;

right-handed

tube

or

exception
on

no

fabrics.

securing two

\\'

by

been

medium

bearings

h is about

then

still it has

fabric, and

for

provided

is

dealt

it

rings.

preceded by

was

trough

form

to

will be

that

the

types from

two, and

horizontal
roller

it

lightand

out

roller ; one,

and

ring ;

few

detail

of

variety

followingonly

and

acting temple;
horizontal

The

and

namely, trough

select

to

necessary

such

in

deflected
maximum

front

of

at

the

best

; it

has

not

but

MECHANISM

430

OF

WE

SiNGLE-KOLLER

speciallyadapted

are

also

are

with

long
three

or

in

near

bolted

on

spring

is

7"

the

beam

box

holes, for

two

pushed

rod

beam.

over

leave
each

at

the

room

side

slay

for

two

piece

of

(Fig. 242), provided

through

; and

Behind

each

for the

purpose

stud

in which

more,
to

h to pass

breast

or

fitted

are

upon

studs

the

moderately heavy looms,

cranks, say
breast

light fabrics; they

out

and

rollers; they

cast-iron

medium

on

sweep

too

moves

7^

fitted

PART

TeMPLES

hold

to

VING

with

the latter
hole

spiral

of

are

holding

'

/f'.'.'.V.'.V.-,-.
.'."T.''.'A'.t\

J
"

'^A..^

Fig.

the

temple forward,

rod

studs

upon

flat rod

broad
those
For

with

steel

also

common,

pins

driven

conical
on

having
into

form,

in

when

screwed

enter

on

drawn

the

most

rollers d

level with

box

steel

Brass

and

it is bent

f
a

to

at

of

"

wood,
boxend

one

steel rollers

to

movable

"

in

As

the teeth and

held

steel

diameter

cap,

the

are

slightly

are

for the

space

roller centre.
over

hoop

rollers

many

has

made

finely-pointed

cases

tight,leaves
the

are

thin

spirally
;

temple

importance,

roller.

taper being from

down

forward,

in

less

secures

long springs similar

to

and

wood.

them

4'' roller.

fastened

trough

the

is of

space

journals,and

injury to

thin collar c,

splitpin, or

lightgoods temple

very

prevents

is often

the

Where

h.

with

used

and

242.

which,

fabric

to

fabric

by

them

is

TEMPLES

XXI

with

sufficient

leave

the

tenacity to

piece free

Many

temples

from

without

contractingunduly
and

the

bite of

of

preventing

being

temple, it
its

slightly during

marks.

the

with

from
sidering
Con-

it.

reed

the

between

desirable

is often

contact

fabric

able to distend

invariablycontracts

cloth

that

temple

still

and

good weaving

ensure

capable

are

"

43

to

stretch

it

One

of

temple.

B
/U\J\JvJV/U\J\JvAAAJ^AA/avJLAJV/jB

Fia.

several

fixed

\^'
in

spindled

in

its

fine

similarly constructed
diameter,

and

groove

collar

and

has

c,

with

smooth
of

a.
an

are

thus

fourteen

At

inclined

prevented

saws

from

longitudinalgrooves

distances

each

has

(Fig.243) turns

apart.

protruding shanks,

straightprojectionson
and

single-roller temples

loose boss

periphery at equal

teeth

every

which

on

243.

A
fits

end

of

the

edge,

is

secured,

h enter

the

fallingout.

As

is

cut

J, with

saw

looselyinto

spindle a
hollow

hollow
all

and

the

parts of

boss

c,

rotates.

MECHANISM

432

end

one

of every

of the inside

OF

saw

collar

the cloth at both

out

Two

-roller

to

\^'

in

of

the

cotton

or

they may

it' *P*rt
and

of tooth

shape

conceivable

in every

The

the under

the

is

cap

made

to

roller

box

temple

the

two

both

front

at

down

runs

semicircles
and

back

and

three-roller

the centre
the

one

that

so

if

they

to

\^" apart

are

in material

wood,

is

or

and

provided

dirt to
In

brass,
formed

the

fall

with

to

cloth

the

front

longitudinal

divide
low

it is

case

with

and

holes

through, but

every

contact

middle

press

\^'

they

down

the

cap
upon

rollers.

Three

If

and

centre,

the

of

shape.

into

its

centre

similar

steel.

or

fabric

approximately

into

to

one

size and

iron,

cast

iron

of

slope

teeth inserted

and

direction
is of cast

brass,

tapering piece

have

they

be

of the fabric ; thus,

sometimes
times

section

placed parallel;

centre

outside,

other

side, to allow

carry

be

-^^'

may

conical,with

^rom

are

; at

the other is iron ;

whilst

on

Eollers

carry

from

coloured

rollers

Both

inside, they will be from

outside.

the

at

the

at

in the

the centre

the

towards

converge

may

the teeth

J" long, and

length ; they may

^f" ^\^

inside

be

may

towards

converge

\^\

outside

4" of

\' on

to

Z\' to

industry.

they

and

Temples

largelyused

weaving

diameters

3^"

from

-Roller

are

part

simultaneously.

temples, from

diameter,

uniform

slides outward,

sides

Two

VING

against the cam-shaped edge

presses

and

WE

temples

in the

deflectingpiece.

Temples

-Roller

cap,
But

have
the

two

rollers in the box, and

top roller takes

if two

rollers

are

the

fixed

place of
in

the

TEMPLES

XXI

cap, and

the

it is

box,

equal

with

working

to

the

upside down.

former
A

within
as

near

of

the

box

possibleto

the

reed

\'

with

slope coinciding
breast

closed, and

allow

should

box

temple

brought
as

in

ono

433

and

beam
low

as

without

roller
should

and

when

eye

be

be

set
a

tween
be-

warp,

the

possiblewithout

as

to

touching,with

fabric

the

harness

down

front

face, and

of

that

the

shed

is

touching

the

slay.
The

also of
short

moving temples

horizontal

in

are

provide

fixingsmust

them

to

forward

back

move

springs,and
when

back.

or

forward

three, probably long vertical springsare

not

so

stiff*and

liable to become

Spiralsprings,
flat ones,

and

strike the

they

adjustment,

vertical

long

holding the temples

for

use

flat

of lateral

means

permitting

shuttle.

Of

best ; for

spoilthe

reed

the

they

are

either

as

of

the others.
Inclined

Inclined
side
of
of

pins, are

far

by

series of
of fine
washer
boss

most

with

few

made

are

with

double

generalform

of

one

temple

All

radiatingsteel pins.
the

on

every
c

ringsand

on

side, but

has

furnished

securelyfixed

washers

are

drilled

hole

in

dropped
2 F

thick
over

rings

behind

the

But

cap.
is that
a

of

singleline

kept apart by

ringsare

other, equal in length to

washer
is

one

row

two

semicircular
this

lines

one

with

parallelbrass rings a (Fig.244), with

6, flat

stud

three

or

rings, each

20

horizontal

as

two

separate studs, placed

on

covered

the

of

with.

met

varied

as

singlering, with

upwards

apart

other, and

and

From

pins, to
1Y

almost

ring temples are

rollers.

fitted

Rings

with

the

through it on
inner

it,care

eccentric

an

width

of

ring,

the skew.

end-piece e, and

being

taken

to

MECHANISM

434

keep
are

and

full side of each

the
in

the

whole

drilled

rings

bolted

holes
a

more

eccentrics

washers

in

less

or

all

carry

inside their lower

have

above

and

rollers

\^'

Broad

temples varying
15

to

20

example,

outside

may

eiFect

the

the

to

their

of

c,

upon

Skew-

/.

holding
and

axes,

all
the

h and

of

surfaces

upper

244.

diameter, rings
at

from
As

is the
be

6" to
a

9" in

angle

an

looms, however,

rings.

nor
equidistant,

for

in

slope approximately

vertical.

slipped

surfaces.

Fio.

For

is

all

When

temple -holder

the

diagonally

pins

PART

uppermost.

end-piece

into

VING

eccentric

second

position a

WE

OF

are

are

of

often
22"

provided

length,and

J" apart
from

with

each

rule, rings in long temples

angle a
\-^'

in

rings yV' apart, whilst

fixed

one.

diameter,
the

two

the

ring

contains
are

not

17-ring temple,

and

inside

have
ones

the
are

two

"

TEMPLES

XXI

435

the
they approach the selvage,

apart ; also,as

inclination

of each increases.
These

temples
and

holdingout
wide

and

generallyspeaking,excellent

are,

fabric

a
stretching

looms

narrow

; those

with

selvageonly,and are mostly used

injuredby temple marks showing

Horizontal

they are

applicableto

singlering act

for

the

on

for fabrics that would

in the

be

body.

Ring

in use.
ringtemples are the oldest make now
A slotted bracket a (Fig.245) is bolted to the inside of the
h is secured in the slot of a.
breast beam, and temple-holder

Horizontal

thumb-screw

piece in the

the

temple plated
plate,with
riveted

bracket

slot,so by turning
can

two

and

the

to

adjusted. Holder
overlappingedges,and
be

5 is
has

Temple plate d

its centre.

at

the

traverses

is

through
right or left,
goes

thin

slotted

flat

spring

pushed between

overlappingedges of h aAd above its flat spring; the

of spring and
bent
combined
edges holds the
pressure
former
tight. A brass roller e, If" in diameter, has three
steel pins ^" long ; it is fixed upon holder
lines of radiating
the

d^ in

horizontal

position,by

through its centre, and

is encircled

by

the

bent
the
is

over

the

centre

it contracts

rim

/, in which

e
slightly
beyond
the
fabric edge to enter, and
be
outside, for
pinsh. A wider slit of f at the rear permits

centre

of

and

''

pieceto leave them.

grippedand stretched

outer

the

diagonalslit g is cut
towards

passing freely

screw

of

In action
between

the

the

roller g, then, after

again until

it

selvageof

pointof

contact

passing that

finally
passes

out

by

the

fabric
and

point,
wide

slot.

MECHANISM

436
In
back

case

it

; but

before

is

shuttle

OF

requiresto

restartingthe

to

manipulate

to

use

fast

on

trapped, plate d

after

if L'

This

has

iJa
i^jjjj

is

troublesome
also

dangerous
of

account

on

weaver

weavers

ijL'uUUui',
i"

getting their fingerscrushed

245.

when

breaking

off loose

weft

is in motion.

PART

CENTEE

Centre

It

the

good holding

somewhat

unweaving.

Fig.

the loom

temple

rigid,and

.i

as

forciblydriven

is

again by

-running looms,

PART

be set forward

loom.

still it is too

powers;

VING

WEA

AND

selvagesare

position when

two

or

XXII

SIDE

required
more

narrow

SELVAGES

to

hold

the

piecesare

edge
woven

threads

in

side

by

MECHANISM

438

lifted in the open

curled

round
shafts

both
below

shed, but the chain

the other side of the

level both

are

VING

chains

part

xxii

front

shaft

stationarythread.

When

the

on

hang

slack

form

and

is

loops

the warp.

Such

chains

resistingthe
much

WEA

OF

their

by

of

-like action

saw

than

longer period

cheapness, and

superior strength

their

well

them

of

for

surfaces

rubbing

twine, and

render

weight,

the

capable

are

flexibility,
for the

adapted

purpose.
In

Shorrock

1886

Figs.

246

bolted

to

and

convenient

h descends

to

is there

coiled

threads

for

rollers turn
round

The

is made

is hooked
frame

ends

At

the

bend

of

smooth

eyes

brass

motion
oscillating
wind

place,elastic

the

sketch.

The

parts back

to

the

opposite sides

side

of

causes

threads

to

are

wind
alternatelyun-

If the

strap

rotation

2 ; wires

takes

former

g, and

1, round

and
starting-point,
of

to

thus

carries

flanged rollers d^

stationary threads

reverse

in

stationary threads

up

crossing threads
other

fixed

a.

contracts, draws

the

on

}i.

support y, rising from

its surface.

strap upon

eyelets/,with
up

of

shaft

elastic i, which

eyelets are

1, and

end

one

periphery

roller

heald

bent

are

the

to

piece of

flanged

plain looms,

strap

wire

Ic in frame

on

crossing

small

two

line,and

take

Straps e,

the
to

a.

upon

secured

are

I two

through
and

the

in

and

cords

crossing threads

the

The

in

by

set-screwed

into

a.

drawn

and

fast

pulley ^,
opposite

take

studs

freely upon

d^ led through guides/, and,

of each
of

At

adjacent selvages.

shed

c, that

is

; from

warp

bottom

the

large eyes

two

the

in

a, that

framing

and

simple

side elevations

rail above

cross

form

to

of

consists

point below

and

in front

It

247.

any

Taylor patented

shown

splitmotion,

efficient

wire

and

of

2,

as

shown
all the

moves

places threads
m

merely

serve

on
as

MECHANISM

440

guides

hold

to

moving straps
be

ordinary
is

e, for

in such

more

they

there

them

if it served

separatelyas
the

gauze,

other

a,

6,c

249
three

are

is screwed

that

thick

The

line

fixed

mails, /

"

a
e

is

they contain,
other

round

of c,

the

same

It

yet

mechanism

tion
descrip-

will be dealt
to

one

"

to

turn

in

as

weave

side elevations
a

partlyround,

goes

connected

from

to two
to

treadles

vibrate, or

for two

treadles.

partly of strapping

partlyof twine, containingtwo

An

it is led

round

warves

or

oscillation of a, b, c in either

mails

round

doing

their

remains

and

piece formed

this

intervening threads
dent

the

pulleys a, 5, c

selvage;
both

cause

side;

two

consideration

make

be substituted

endless

an

each

for

will

To

but

holds

named

under

functions

are

cause

grooved pulleysg, hy g.
direction

last

strap which

spring may

to the surface
one

the

one

two

its ends

a;

upon

and

treadle

lift of

ably
consider-

compounded pulleyssuspended

and
alternately

move

light

Taylor's;

respectivelyfront

are

top rail of the loom, d^ d' is

and

ness
har-

plain.

and

Figs. 248

and

plainorder.

in

weave

in

constructed

origin,is

whilst

the
perspicuousas possible,

as

with

to

to

through

Shorrock

to

stationary,the

straight threads
causes

lines

; but

multiply the

move

may

harness.

or

difference,that

is this

with

and

one,

connected

to

as

cases

healds

similar

somewhat

on

touch

Jacquards

be

motion, apparently of French

of

out

used, jacks of

manner

in all

must

than

space

is

other, should

the

from

lever, fulcrumed
straps

part

comparativelyinexpensive,and

last named

of the

either

threads

the

threads

warp

easilyapplied to tappets, dobbies, or

case

one

VING

e.

splitmotion

This

WE

OF

/,

and

warves

each

the

g,

mail

that

g', and

ascend

carries

must

threads

warp

be

on

its warp

drawn

into

threads

are

crossingthread.
to

show

how

those

CENTRE

xxn

moved

and
,

in

ibi

AND

plain order.

opposite

euda

SIDE

SELVAGES

441

third

strap

is

have

cords

i, i',attached

Becared

to

pulley

in

the

MECHANISM

442

following manner:
whence
Cord
is

selvages;

round

with

hence

if

enable

cloth

plain

that

form

the

descend,

to

up

to

of h

be

Each

i.

to

part of

opposite

mails

causes

y, j

to

reversed

of h when

by lifting/,

woven

tied.

is there

again

motion

from

k,

warve

i\ and

cord

oscillation

an

part

round

k' and

mails

two

ascend, and /, /
will

warve

VING

i is bent

diagonallyto

up

i is taken

provided

Cord

"

it goes

WE

OF

and

sinking;,;.
Taking
involved

both

actions

; but

where

thread

constantlymoving
is very

evident

of Shorrock

that

and

Inventors

it is

simply

question of twisting

partly round

the

parts

somewhat

cords appear

together,the

those

quite as simple as

are

it

stationaryone,

Taylor'smotion.
continually adding

are

appliances for weaving

difficult matter

number

selvages,and

centre

make

to

the

to

it becomes

those

from

selection

good

of

available.
Motions

entirelyround
of the

and

by Boyd.

250) bolted
of

sunk

The

has two

smooth

outer

the centre, for

one

of

and

fitted
a

carries

holes

into
near

thread
two

cut

to

of
on

lock-nuts

in the
a

pin

having

^^

smooth

flanges

projecting from
depressed

the
ratio

the

of

of

diameter

to

two
5

J",

supported by pressing
spindle has

This

ring.
hole

face ; it

ring J,yV' wide,

or

inner
is

the

across

teeth

an

Salt,

splitpinion a (Fig.

in

are

Titus

Sir

gearing with

point somewhat
c,

by

wheel,

spindle that

end,
a

h has

drilled

one

thread

one

spiral. Probably

centre, and

surfaces, and

Ring
a

; it is

side.

teeth

by

has

in the

purpose

pinion.

is crossed

its ends

key

the
The

a.

in the

which

shaft

either

on

of

form

first named

teeth, -^' wide

twist

introduced

were

the crank

on

equal width

teeth

in the

known

best

that

with

met

another

two

has

often

are

drilled

near

beyond

circular

the

other,

its centre

milled

heads,

; it
two

AND

CENTRE

XXII

SIDE

and

spools d^ a spiralspring 6,
d

are

key

of brass, each
bed

would
inner

freelybut

turn

end, and

the

for

also abuts

short

all

1|" over
receive

to

cut

SELVAGES

by f

key

holding pin. Spools

in diameter

the

in

spiralg,

againsta

"

443

spindle,the

which
nut

hence

Fig.

to

nuts

Each

retarded.

spool has

it is also

necessary

will wind

on,

has

two

side

as

of

curved

to

by moving

"

other

ring

h is

free

two

fix

the

250.

spring

holding pin, and

against the

One

the

compress

its

zfsz:

tL

the

other

upon

presses
;

has

one

one

rotation

threads

them

unwinds

spool will
wound

upon

the

will

be

thrust

thereby

upon

be

it,and

spindle,so

one

yarn.

perfectlyflat,but

the

other

flanges/ exactly opposite each other

side

; both

MECHANISM

444

projectabout
of

down

sides

the
enter

of the

one

to

front

edge immediately
held

close

bolted

to

of the

loom

as

by

bracket

convenient

any

grooved

is

; g

edges

of

shed.

open

an

cross

rail

", and

of

teeth

ft,g

^,

cap

back

or

a,

its

its centre

brass

the

the

a, with

above

spool

rightand

to the

receive

to

smooth

the

consequence

on

trudes
pro-

"irilled in

from

semicircular

of

h and

"y"

lines of

bottom

space

centre

healds, and

the

behind

upon

^^

h is situated

the

threads

is taken

top and

the

between

midway
is

left.

^^^'"

^^^^

one

Wheel

other

It

the

then

eyes,

within

through ring

passes

spools; the

the

face

that

part

Below

ring.

flanged side yV;

the

on

tube

VING

points,and

the

to

thread

flange a

WE

widest

their

\' at

2J" they taper

each

OF

all in

are

touch.

twistingis obtained

Continuous
the
a

flanges/

shed, and

when

combined

distended

the

the

of

other

threads

pass

revolution

of h the

second

and
positions,

twist

into

the

of

rotation

pairs of untwisted
every

both

pairs.

If Salt's motion
neat

and

untwist

is in

such

and

the

ring

proper

by

away

after

the

working

the

assume

that

manner

them;

or,

each

upon

put

move

doubling

insert

break

will

to

half

contracted

to

be wound

may

of

taken

in

but

distended

pair being
be

must

tube

order

two

spool,

twist

an

the

into

ingly
exceed-

strong edge is obtained.

Boyd's contrivance
looselyinside

first

threads

two

farther

of

centre

together,therefore

outside,

pair are

strands

revolution

when

the

spool threads
will not

closer

on

the

Care

them.

between

^As h rotates,

"

flange and

the

by

pair, being

ring,are

separated

outer

the

is reached

point

are

; whilst

diameter

the

this

healds

the

nearest

follows

successivelyoppositethe

moved

are

as

brass

consists of two
holders.

All

are

circular

spoolswhich

placed

in

recesses

fit
on

MECHANISM

446
take

the

fulcrum

\y long, and
nailed
then

series

half

twisted
and

front

and

round

ft,V

the

turned

wires

reed

of

reach

to

and

side

PART

in

round

opposite ends,

the

the

for

3, 4, 5
shafts
from

wire, and

goes
thread

over

the

race

from

Selvage
the

flattened

d goes

other

top shed, but

board.

end
the

threads

the

loops
down

of

in

eye

former

latter

c\

shafts

one

allows

for

thread

1, 2, and

3, 4,

end

shafts

those

every

in shafts

pulls all

for

and

c, then

elevate

will

; the

of

one

252.

intended

loops

over

lifted shaft

depress the

rise to

Fig,

through

go

consequence,

and

to

pin.

hole

the

is

251.

passed through

are

1,

every
a

fulcrum

in

seen

as

252, where

and

Figs. 251

leathers, c,

top,

are

leather,

the

in

the

at

over

wood,

the

Fia.

about

across

riveted

are

bent

side elevations

wood,

the

enough

the under

to

VING

pieces of leather, each

Two

pin.

wide

WE

OF

of

As

6.
a

boat

its threads

its threads

down

to

CENTRE

XXII

By suitablydrawing
heald
an

twills,and

eyes,

example,

cases,

warp

through

other

satins

with

woven

447

loops and

boat

than

the

one

over

given
in

perfectplainedges

only slightdefects

with

and

be

can

SELVAGES

SIDE

AND

as

some

in others.

"

Fig.

Another

simple,and
in

method
does

Fig. 253,

weight

upon

ascends

to

of

the
control

weaving plain cloth selvagesis equally

greatly differ

not

where

is

top of
a

253.

series

in cost.

It is illustrated

light lever restingby

cam

of

ft,and
harness

from

which

couplingsd^

its
a

own

cord

that

are

The
back

line is determined

warp

rest, breast

this, as

upon

different

beam

and

lease in which
the

rod)
the

centre

that

so

straightline
an

upward

then

downward

form

equal angles

bottom

drawn

from

shed, and

and

equal

(with

under

two

each

equidistant from

be

sinking

back

given

before

plane,and

and

given

movement

placing the

all

heald

eyes

254.

movement

equal

Upon

positionsthe

exact

advocate

fell to

cloth

Fig.

below

the

over

are

shaft, and

heald

positionsof

lease rods.

and

horizontal

one

threads
and

relative

the

Some

in

rest

two

first rod

to

occupy.

back

PART

important matters, experts hold

other

should

VING

eyes,

opinions,especiallyas

parts named
breast

by

heald

beam,

many

WE

OF

MECHANISM

450

but

to

rest
to

some

the

behind

smaller

to

breast
warp,

beam,
and

remainder,

the

healds

angles

in

in
the

an

will

the

top

one.

See

Fig. 254,

rest, dotted
the closed
lines

of

It will

an

be

line

in which
c

the

seen

6,

shed,
that

is the

horizontal

line of warp,
open

breast

beam,

h the

plane containing both,

bottom
/, i,y, respectively

g fell of

angle

e, c

back

cloth, and

h front

equals angle /, c

and

top

lease rod.
;

also that

TIMING

XXIII

FIXING

AND

angle y, c equals angle "',c

than

trianglej, %

The

the warp

bottom

in the

the reed,
assisted

into

following pick

to

appears

In

be

sink

the back
heald

the

cloth

and

all

; but

puts

with

in

warp

is

intended

the

last

one

loose

the cloth

and

is usual

it

is

back

rest

to

shaft

slacken

before

part of

one

the

regulated in

the

than

to

beam, and

breast

the

back

the

equidistant.

closer to

nearer

strain upon

more

shed

drives

cover

plan gives largerangles behind

This

those

fabric, and

tight ones,

1 J" above

the lease rods

tighten a top shed,

the

pairs through

the

reed

from

before

as

on

operationof beating up,

the

about

rest

by moving

in

already mentioned,

as

eyes

the

of threads

composed

Lancashire,

elevate

and

before

put

all threads

is done

wholly opening

separated

are

This

in

be

tight,whilst

be

pass

running together

threads

greater

more

consequence,

slack.

be

then, during
position,

warp

threads, that

warp

by partiallyor

the

As

healds,but

position will

former

from

is

will

strain

equal

of the

sides

top shed.

prevent

triangle e, /, c

same,

position will

latter
to

for

the
the

occupying
view

the

both

on

than

451

c.

angles being

upon

but

PARTS

OF

to

one.

the healds,
shed

than

another.
If fabrics

and

heald

leave

raised,to

are

eyes

down, the back

face

woven

are

Inequality of tension, however,

far, or
The

corded

cloth

bevel of

board

race

positions of rocking
cranks

and

determines

warp
the

Some

shaft

and

reed

is in such

maintain

and

cases

be

is

dropped

shed
be

not

will

warp

depends

The

line.

bottom

should

slack.

taken

too

frequent.

length of sword,

upon

connecting pins, throw

warp

length of swords,

perpendicularwhen
rocking shaft

broken

and

the

rest

line

and

as

of

the

an

open

latter

fabric touch, the

are

of

shed
often

position of

also obtained.

that vertical swords

are

best

on

account

MECHANISM

452

of

blow

being

angles than
angles to

rocking shaft

the

Cranks
4

for

be

in wide

requisitesize

rule

the

the

bevel

reed

line ; but
and

fabric

wheels
the

the

fast

Still
of

reed, and

the

is

the

brought

fabrics, the

backs

rule

weight

in

cranks

holds
all

wear

rapidly at

both

oi

",

position in

the

to

the
and

arms

make

bottom

vertical

are

good

warp

when

reed

are

shedding tappets
make

necessary,

else

will

be

to

of

parts.

then

loose

bottom

should

the

be

centres.
a

teeth

is advisable

key

the teeth

are

regulatedby

them

the

upon

give steady

to

their

As

ally
intention-

fixed

enough

each

designed

are

are

the

upon
one,

looms

wheels

driving

they revolve

as

In

stand.

there

the

expended

brakes

picking point,it

loom

shaft, proceed

not

that

respectiveshafts again before

a

do

force

revolution, and

All parts of

crank

picking and

approach

moving

the

the

driving

accumulate

the

as

the
have

centres, and

heavy fly wheels

large,and

shaft, to

turning

than
them

stout

made

reed

When

Couple

338.

p.

box

by

up

machine

weave

main

former's

similar

that

so

heavier

stored

12".

their bottom

on

board

one

larger or

frogs of

to

bottom

energy

time

on

readily adjusted, but

be

the

move

6" to

the

fix

shuttle

implies moving

in contact.

are

fix the

can

and

usually slopes from

looms

from

given

race

incline

rail.

defining the positionof

After
to

the

of

swords

is

right

at

length of connecting arms

to

swords, place the cranks

be

to

the

course

medium

and

cranks

of

of

right

at

contention

reed

when

front

looms

obtained, proceed

framing by

this

and

If this

fabric

part

delivered

from

given

the

nearer

narrow

J" to 6", and

been

blow

healds, and

to

VING

point.

cranks, because

beam

breast

should

fabric

the

towards

other

any

consideration,
a

WE

eflFective when

more

from

of

worthy

OF

minimum
of
to

upon

wheels
move

their

totallydestroyed.
the

movement

of

TIMING

XXIII

the

cranks, because

main

takes

When

follows

and

is

that

sides of

in contact

all the way

directed.

out

straps

bestowed

10"

will

The
on

its

narrow

it

of
the

their

back

centres

when

it is afterwards
can

the

put

30"

an

arm

slide

necessary

is

forward
age,
lever-

will

through

moves

be

passed through

and

the

To

remaining

find

its proper

fore centres, draw

be

arms

twisting

much

give too

framing,

the

flying

care

of

centre
over

the

arm

spindle centre.

readilydone,

end

lengthen or
either

cranks

the

backward

freelyfrom

to

arm

picking strap,

by turning
the

the

strap being unduly slack.

found
be

from

strap, the spindle,and

if

moving

picker should

spindlewithout

strap, this

should

and

properly

Unless

will

the

be

great advantage,

fixed.

be obtained

can

be

shuttle

inwards.

their

arm,

should

all,the picking

will

arm

spindle,and

length of strap

of the

to

the tappets

pickerapproaches the

the

on

of

arm

looms,

slant

to

cranks

the

and

damage

parallelwith

should

of

an

long

In most

it leaves

forward,

the

matter,

will

the middle

where

hours

in order

them,

equal ;

force

First

prepared

one

cause

length,put
over

former

some

example)

an

is also

angle of 40", approximately

it is

as

be

preventing

spindleas

short

in

be

this

the

picker.

before

the

set

looms

with

and

box

guide.

of its traverse.
but

an

as

to

are

upon

strain upon

the

pieces of

Although picking

new

weave

is taken

shuttle

long

by serving

end

run

should

round,

materiallyassists

and

to

loom

(ifthis pick

cones

it

parts of the

centres, beating up

practiceto
to

the

everything is working correctly. For good picking,

all parts at both

as

all

operation.

common

is made

attempt

any

from

continues, other

into

fore

453

direct

it to

the

on

PARTS

power

transmit

are

brought

are

OF

movement

as

shedding, it

before

and

receive

first,as it is customary

parts

see

they

they

place,and

mechanism

FIXING

shaft

driving

machine.

AND

and
to

end

ever,
If,how-

shorten

by adjusting

MECHANISM

454

the strap

but

itself,
or

WE

OF

the

by unscrewing

shaft

and

moving

it must

be

remembered

the

time

part

of the upright

top

nut

and

arm

ring

upper

the

VING

in

out,

or

picking is thereby

of

slightlyaltered.
Slow
cranks

are

usual

or

on,

end,

then

if the

see

To

the

turn

15"

to

fast-runninglooms.
box

shaft until

cranks

the tappet,

move

both
all

the shaft

turn

when

contact,
the

from

until

the tappet

required,move

to

In
timed

former

that

with

out

shaft

in the

shedding

and

each

other, but

not

of

in

centre

cone

Y
If

more

upright shaft

to

in

are

yV'

to

should

See

away

force

is

; but

it

be transmitted

be

time

that

the

to

of

be

the

it must

repair warp

not

than

the

moving
the

bearings

equal

are

drag

from

to

to

forgotten that

the

replaceweft

weft.

shuttles

repair
more

are

weight

in

large,for large

stoppages
be

is

tappet

latter,by putting great

numerous

responding
cor-

This

shedding.

which

any
too

bearings,liftingone

shuttles

overcome

tion
altera-

any

accompanied by

other, and

the

correctly

are

slay,then

the

crank-shaft

not, however,

cause

threads, and

to

required direction,after

require large sheds, and

warp,

pickingtappets

the

with

sufficiently
heavy

to

continue

which,

possibleshall

as

should

picking

of gear

again secured.

needed

slots in

tion,
required direc-

from

the

nearer

by looseningthe

wheel

upon

cone.

little power

as

alteration

They

of

cases

in the time

and

be

move,

picker.

some

obtained

should
the

curved

the

and

nose

to

positions;if

proper

after

in

picker againsta

in the

nose

tight again ;

extremity

outer

is desirable

shell and

it is

reached

picker begins

through

pass

the tappet

the

point is

their

occupy

the bolts that

screw

the

the

centres, but

pick,hold

when

pick

to

that

before

set

not, loosen

and

begin

little past the bottom

10"

pick

to

should

looms

-running

strain

broken
time

is

MECHANISM

456

weights require

OF

V7NG

WEA

attention

constant

part

to

secure

fixed

motion

to

drop

pull.
Set

the

pushing

the hollow

into

cranks

are

until

holding catch

turn

fast-reed

stop the slay when

the

of shuttle

steadying spring
to

nothing

cranks

be

are

incline

upper

reed

the

in

their

about

tips must

the

the

shuttle

But

when

will not

room

along the
hold

fingers must
To

this

do

edges

front

long

just strong

slide

the fabric.

pass

be

of 2" should

space

The

frogs

2|".

it.

sufficient

accident.

it touches

when

firm

of

case

the

vibrating as

frogs,or

tooth.

than

is

fingers to oscillate and

for the

provided

of

required from

and

centres

say

"

slay

more

reed

top centres,

fingers and

between

from

the

should

is

reed

loose

is

more

their

on

for

the

clear

they

fell of cloth

latter

the

prevent

across,

exist

the

from

back

must

and

lower
as

the bottom

\' past

the

or

tooth

their

to

box,

breadth

raise

one

stop-rod blades

shuttle

to

the

cranks

about

looms

enough

enough

takes

catch

when

wheel

ratchet

the

is in its

by \' when

taking-up

fore centres, then

the

fix the

moves

in

the

back;

If

tooth

moves

In

of

their

upon

stud

driving

of

catch

of the

cessfully,
suc-

frogs

^'.
weft

A
cranks

fork

tappet should

round

pass

the

intact, the

fork

also

through

pass

front

the

and

centres,
the

clear

must

grid

lever

its hammer

move

so

as

weft

is

by J", and

head

hammer
without

long

the

as

touching

at

any

part.
Shuttle
shuttle

before

boxes

has

entered

the

begin

then

half

the

picker acts

may

before

ought

to

change

revolution

box,
for
as

begin

to

following pick ;

cranks

is allowed

followingshuttle

the

reach
to

is driven

move
across.

after

soon

move

all motion

that

so

the

to

will
hence

cease

boxes

top centres, for

and

steady them

fV"A

XXIV

Temples
the

fixed

are

be

piece to

yV'

as

low"^^

tV

OR

to

is

breast

WEAVING

to

provide for

in

order

to

humidity

and

the

admits

plan

the

situation

ones,

with

place.
moist

such, for instance,

and

water

the

as

In

fuel, ready
a

machinery
the

also,because

is

winds

has

proximity
to

access

in
locality

from

the

which

of

place

to

open

to

But

be

to

to

cost

and

desirable.

site

of

arrangement

material

dry

other

selected,

good supply

market

for

factured
manu-

experienced operatives

floor space,

should

same

two

be

or

to

or

placed

for the

the

whatever

but

ground twice,

stories

more

arranged

is

machinery

preparatory

cases

many

economising

over

plentiful.

contiguous building of
of

when
close

ground-floor,

supervision,small

clay subsoil,

and
articles,
are

atmosphere

protected from
a

the

on

vibration, uniformity of

easy

"

generallybuilt

now

convenient

most

considered

be

things must
of

from

carriage of

building,gearing, and

are

of looms

in the

worker

the

from

edge

SHEDS

OR

country,

temperature

for

machinery

this

freedom

of

the front

the

near

as

XXIV

large number

secure

inclination

set

are

reed, as

beam.

ROOMS

sheds, in

the

The

heavy.

touching,with

\}c!L^xi
the

457

from

farther

or

lightor

PAKT

Weaving

SHEDS

general rule they

possiblewithout

as

ROOMS

nearer

woven

also varies, but

reed

VING

of

cost

purpose

plan adopted,

prevent the material

the

in

working

going
will

be

increased.
Shed

high

and

walls

(Figs. 255

usually

14"

and

256)

are

thick, except when

14'-0"
one

to

wall

16' 0"

h has

MECHANISM

458

support the

to

24" ; but
the

main

this

wall, and

comfort

shed

roof is

rests

J" at

pillarshave

and

roof

and

where

top, with

the
^^

^^"

the

shaft from

the

latter

and
the

erected

diameter

metal

upon

constructed

sheds
a

walls,but principally

of

thickness

places;

as

5"

to

of

"

are

used

the

concrete

at

bottom, and
former

the

they only support

columns

should

and

plain

weave

the

at

shafting,this strength is ample

Jacquards

in

255.

pillarsd

In

foundation.

cloth, the

the

supported partly by

series of cast-iron

stone

built

or

oflF.

Fig.

by

18"

to

cleanliness

of

isolate

to

PART

cohimns

upon

the sake

for

work-people

by walling it

The

sometimes

VING

it is increased

c, then

it is desirable
the

to

shaft

shaft

WE

OF

; but

be

in

light
places

stronger,

H^"A

VING

lipscast

upon

XXIV

and

have

line to support

floor
the

Jacquards

and

\'

in metal

loom

be

used

two

in

to

looms

"

3'-6"

5'-2". The

the

the

to

east

in

beams

to

varied

fix them
to

as

the

introduced
instead
in

by
of

the old

they

to

which

plan,they

them

the

new

the

carrying of

than

Columns

looms

arrange
in

of

one

both
But
of

the

with

it is

be

two

from

or

pillar

fixed

of

16' '9"

by

33'-6"

being
thus,

apart

and
a

as

This

apart.

shafting from

obviously

the

pillarsto
much

lengths in

old type, and

are,

is

greatlyreduced

of

tion
posi-

to south

system

beams

different

from

sometimes

north

by

roof

looms

narrow

are

new

lines

one/

question to attempt

11 '-0"

22'*0"

alternate

strengthening

to

say,

"

at

11' "4" should

looms

in lines from

is

taken

running

relativelyoccupy

become

supporting

lines

shed

broad

7'-0"+20"+16"

of the

from

are

therefore, taking

14' "6" space

same

it is out
will

Broad

their number

guard against vibration.

matter

the

walking

be

filled with

20'-0" apart, but

arranging

necessitates

roof, and

placed in

four

22", the back

least

14' '4" to

pillars.Pillars

rule, 15'*0"

provided.

require

that

wide

at

take

to

leave

may

pillarsin

sheds

new

lengths that
so

of

4'-0" loom

but

3'-6"x2

class of

the

4'-r'; and

or

The

suffice.

looms

be 20" to

g 24"

have

we

4'-0"

wide,

should

passage

some

pillar. Looms

such

Narrow

diameter

in

cases

width, and

in

5' '8"

centre

12'*9" is

as

warp

to

For

but

much

three

centre

west.

allowed,

end

looms,

10' "0" from

to

them.

round

4''7|"to

narrowest

as

and

working alleye

18",and

generallyarranged

are

two

from

are

16" to

they

which

light girders on

most

the

12'*0" above

depends largelyupon

4'-4i"wide, averaging

to

looms

in

length, and

between

space

459

additional

will

columns
;

of

An

rest.

SHEDS

9'*0" to

from

network

thickness

of

arrangement

OR

them

to

are

ROOMS

it also

easier

shed

of

facilitates

warps.

have

uniform

arrangement,

except

where

main

end

sometimes

are

walls;

middle

of

windows

is the

light,which
from

south.

These
also

and

beams

the

support

immediately

are

connected

to

65"

with

angle approximating
the

parts carry
which
and

forms

keep

to

winter, and

prevents

in

summer.

In

to

remove

outlets

fast

for

the

beneath

the

at

utilised

are

this

the

clean
find

system

difficultyexperienced
out, there

them
its way

removing
under

the

small

in
in

from

water

gutters and
diameter
area

at

each

water

right angles

at

water

to

make

an

level;

such

roof, the

of

gable

to

impossible

next

is

It

away.

best, for

in

the

for
liability

Another

is

the

are

run

is questionable

addition
drains

to

water

to

plan

for

by fixing pipes
beams;

they

first

received, but

in

proportion as

succeeding bay,

only

columns

drain-pipes

roofs

freely

if the

hollow

the

getting at
a

it in

be

bearings.
shed

rest

too

is the
in

gutters

in

water

parallelwith

where

together,

to

shining

and

always

shafting and

to

rain

is

walls

during storms,

the

carry

and

collectingupon

walls, therefore

to

shoe

steep portion is glazed

it would

purpose,

wood

north

the

from

sun

enough

this

floor

whether
to

the

the

from

the

from

snow

large sheds

water
were

the

of

parts /, that

The

right angle.

parting
im-

run

are

of

portions

upper

serves

to

form

Cast-iron

but
pillars,

of

made

the

columns

for

preventing

are

in

the

northern

adapted

and

j that

roof.

the

over

and

y,

give

to

west

is cast

bind

beams

for each.

weaving sheds, and

Eoofs

beams

the

down

runs

be allowed

temperature,

column

horizontal

take

to

each

and

to

troublesome.

being

iron,

or

of

against both

passage

in

east

these

building ;

greatest, steadiest^best

uniformity

the

least 4'*0" should

from

run

part

sometimes

wide

top light is always used

roof

sun

times

At

shed.

VING

against one,

other

at

WE

entirelythrough

run

passages

latter

OF

MECHANISM

46o

are

crease
in-

the

WEAVING

XXIV

of water

volume

The

main

all line
and

allow

the

the
m

sheds
shed
of

is

that

this

manufacturers

shafts

driven

are

belts.

place the engine

the

elevate

and
the

then

are

from

the

of

of

sides

will
and

the

depend

the

action

of

distance

Power

or

ropes

from

because

is

main

stouter

the

is distributed

to

than
very

c.

in proportion
motion

the

of

support

from
shaft

on

it receives
nature

be

may

them

in diameter

the

shaft

the

wheel

rope

of

ordinary driving
looms.

and

0,

will be transmitted
'p

point where
upon

wheels

spur

gearing,by leading
a

permit

to

horizontal

engine

of wheel

Generally speaking,this shaftingis

for

short

power

engine round

from

by

advisable

gearing wall,

high enough

the

equal

tooth

an

its distance

driven

of

of

less

ropes, and

of the

shaft

shaftingdiminishes

of

its dimensions
be

shaft

both

on

instead

Every length
to

it is

to the

some

weavers.

centre

until

and
parallel,

wheel

rope

crank

latter

employed,
the

bed

passed direct

The

employed.
shaft

the

near

rows

single lines

gearing,by

velocityis unsuitable,

if the

or

or

engine

be

to

power

at

double

thingspermitting,it is

Other

Still

shaft, and

two

or

wheel

by

on

light.
of

extra

one

window

gutters parallel. A

number

an

cases

shadows

weaver's

given

have

to

most

the

throw

not

the

plan requires

prefer

frequentlyby
to

for

In

n.

shaftingand

the

parallel with

right angles with

at

wheels

bevel

run

looms

of

placed 12'*0"

by

that

that

against

be

work

apart for their least skilled

set

Main

it should

readily.

out

fixed

always

provided

are

cleaned

be

to

to

obstruct

with

461

manholes

slays shall

usually adapted

looms, but

looms

the

SHEDS

those

rows

thus

geared

are

line

namely,

"

and

warps,

is

floor

shafting is

lines, in order

pipes

shaft

alternate

last-named

the

the

gearing wall,and

shafts

between

the

to

small

13'-0" above

to

^,

increases, and

driving

termed

wall

OR

which

intervals

at

ROOMS

to

looms

support.

that

sary
neces-

unsteady

the various

line

MECHANISM

462
shafts
be

such

not

as

enable

will
teeth

the

of

the

to

ensure

Line
latter

will

teeth

of

former, and

wheels
A

with

give
back

floor

the

and
pillars,

are

shed

be

with

from

sides

according to
Loom

24"

wide

line

the

It

The

them.

plummet
where

ends

crank

shaft

by

at

it

from

usual

of

touches

the

fixed

left

placed

four, and
is fixed to

which

from

by

one

one

of

broad

diameter) capable

of 18"

and

better,by

loom
the

that

all

to

result

is made

width
shall

of
be

of

make

the
a

be

may

longer than
both

driving

parallelwith
made

are

procedure

points along
floor

diameter,

required speed

this

measurements

of

in

parallelto give straight

that

one

least

method

different

are

of

is often

upwards

order

essential

is

and

to

bearings,each driving a pair of

be

In

stone

together as possibleon

of line shaft

should

similar

of

right

driven

what

close

8" to

shafts, hence

line

slabs

shaft

20" in

to

line

side of the
and

groups

is either

as

shaft

machinery.

pulleys.

the

ropes

made

into

15"

by

fixed

the

of

its fellow

of

of

those

supported by hangers

revolutions

attained,the
that

the

driven.

are

one

group

drums

narrower

of

engine if

other

heavy

formed

looms, by pulleys from

lines

the

on

can

carrying four driving straps, or

loom.

the

cient
suffi-

pulleys on

to

similar

Looms

are

Each

(20''to

opposite

the

taken

of

base.

further

the roof beams.

two

all

is often

parallelto

are

means

driven

rows

tooth

bring the drivingpulleystogether,and

two

drum

should

by degrees in
one

shaft

is covered

back; they

to

of

half to those

in the

firm

to

of which

direct from

ropes

by

shaft

every

handed,

of

the

side,and

looms

part

required velocity,but

to work

one

its crank

if half

one

shed

the

impart

driven

be

may

wheel, then

rope

VING

g',the diameters

difference

; a

this.

placed

at

only

other

shafts

is

shafts

bevel wheels

through

WE

OF

is

first

to

from

drop

shaft, and

permanent

mark

WE

XXIV

with

marks, lift it

on

length of

the

building.

of

through

two

feet

the

chalked

From

not

is

packing

no

of flat wood

foot holes
in the

the

put

driven

hold

swell

with

therefore

drum

tions,
posi-

whether

see

feet ; if so, thin

or

pieces

removed, and
wooden

back

are

driven

are

pegs

into

holes

position, and

feet

into

the

wooden

moisture

of

the

floor

the

drilled

tight;

long

nails

plugs, the
and

securely

the loom.
for

Calculations

the

the

necessary.

required size,the positionsof

dry

the

through

that the

in various

top of it,to
the

so

the

loom

the

than

loom

first

make

to

positionsof

the

from

centres

as

to fix them

arc

the

cut

used

alleysmore

the

loom

the

is then

are

latter

marked,

which

loom

back

beneath

to the

cut

the

laid upon

required

are

to

and

an

line,then

are

being taken

obstruct

flags,into

the

produced

lines

on
spirit-level

of the

end.

line

mark

one

at

each

chalk

From
sides

are

these

long straight-edgeis
with

both

made

10' '0" to

near

cord is to be stretched

obtained, care

pillarswill

marked.

arcs

be

line is drawn

is driven

be

the whole

lines may
a

points of intersection

which

be

can

nail

flags,

line will

piece of light wood

on

more

sought.

line

nail

each

the

extend

similar

two

over

above

to

afterwards

which

it

straightwhite
made

Other

of

means

circle is described

pair, and

be

463

inches

placed longitudinallyover

is

other

the

few
a

SHEDS

cord, stretch

shafts,and

positionof

the

centre

floor ; it must

long,through

rod

The

chalk

the

right angles by
12''0"

OR

suddenly, when

alternate

below

ROOMS

to

the

at

let it go

visible

VING

chisel ; then

and

method

examples

two

of

required
per

line shaft

speeds are
will

of
be

the

sufiicient to

procedure. First, to
to

drive

loom

simplest description,

at

find
the

the
of

rate

clearlyshow
diameter
200

tions
revolu-

minute, if its pulley is 9" in diameter, and

makes

130

revolutions

per minute

"

of

the

MECHANISM

4^4

130

if

Second,
and

is

line

diameter

of

There

with

upon

shaft

loom

are

greater
strict

few

140

will

15

dealt

if

industries,
truth

attention

than

to

give

220

of

detail.

with

any,

weaving,

as

of

xxiv

13-9".

in

picks

minute,

per

what

diameter,
minute

per

?
"

9-55".

Answer

9*55.

require

matters

properly

15''

drum

part

revolutions

140

VING

Answer

13-9.

makes

small

be

only

can

pulley

other

Many

with

220

they

200

furnished

WEA

OF

close

they
which

that

but

attention,
arise

it

success

in

can

practice.
be

said

depends

INDEX

of Bouelli's

Action
of

Jacquard,

of

loose

of

single lift

of

of

stocks

of

motion, 322
negative dobby,

Automatic

M^Murdo's,

and

Nuttall's,
shuttle

bowls,

with

warp

open

of

and

Barrel

144

lift dobbies, 96

shedding,

of open

21

Beams

shedding with healds, 3

of a twilling Jacquard, 168
below
of tpng
a comber
board, 189
164
of Verdol's
Jacquard,
in a shuttle, 271
Aggregate motion

picking

motions, 265

Ainsley's Jacquard,
Altering speed
shuttle, 277
Antifriction

of

bowls,

Attachment
box

for
motion

effect

on

38

loom,336

motions,

motion,
in

columns

motion,

stopping
a

revolving
weft breaks,

reading in
attempts to produce,
-

be

parallel,

machine,

393
flat

tray.

Dr.

Cart-

inside

segment

of

circle,

outside

segment

of

circle,

393

241

to

393

weaving

426

Automatic

rollers

WTight's, 393

86

when

45

and

motion,

to the

borders,

cross

Beating up, 332

air, 333
up by compressed
by flat springs, 332
up
up, position of parts, 338
of slay, 345
up, power
Bessbrook
Jacquard, 167
Bevel
of race
board, 347
Blackburn
dobby, 97
Bonelli's Jacquard, 172
Box

of cranks

Application
Archer's
dobby,
of
Arrangement
458
sheds,

138

loom,

weaving

369

411

of

of modem

Hanson

harness, 203
for

tappet,

oscillatingtappet, 56
of Shaw's
drop box motion,

of inventors

ling's,
Schil-

4/

of

Aim

machine,

weighting motion,
Orabtree's, 374

Bannister

Crossley'sJacquard,

of double

cutting

239

quard,
Jac-

156
of

machine,

238

372
warp

cross-border

cutting
's,236

Co.

guards, 329
weighting
motion,

motion, 79

tappets, 25
weft
fork, 354

Advantages

card

repeater

bowls,
shedding motion, 74
stocks

83

closed

with

card

repeater

machine, Devoge and

repeater card -cutting

bowls, 74

and

shedding
of

176

reed

and

of stocks

Jacquard,

133

Boyd's

centre

selvage motion,

Brake, Haythornethwaite's,
ordinary, 357
Brakes,
2 H

357

444

359

MECHANISM

466

Buffers, 312
Building rods, 185
BuUough's trough aud

OF

dobby,

Bury's

flexible

roller

temples,

107
chains

for

centre

selvages, 487
Butterworth

and

VING

Centre

428

Burnley

WE

for continuous
selvage motion
twisting, Boyd's, 444
for
continuous
selvage motion
Sir
Titus
442
Salt's,
twisting,
weft
fork, 361
Centred
tie harness, 195
Chains

Dickenson's

dobby,

107

versus

driven

whip
for
for

of

consumption

threads, 263

order

of

power

15

knitting healds,
consumed
in picking,

299
for
for

rate

knitting healds, 15

of looms

for

speeds
speed

to

determine

of

in
to

find

wheel

the
384

and

tappets,

motions,
-strap, 311
method
of attachment,

Cheetham

and

Jacquard,

shafting,463
of

amount
a

slay,
size

tricity
eccen-

340

of

taking

"

up

taking-

Sutcliffe's

312
open

shed

152
110

frame,
of, 317
Circles, 317
Circular
boxes, 423
Clasped healds, 5
Classification
of Jacquards, 121
Closed
shedding, 18
Collier,Evans, and Riley'sswell, 318
Columns
in weaving sheds, 458
board
Comber
composed of slips,180
board, solid, 180, 201
of positive and
Combination
tive
negaparts for delivering warp.
Circle

59

in

Check

Christy'spositive dobby,
of

weighting

386

up

for

Calculations

for

369

warps,

Changing

ropes

movement

wheel,
Cams
eccentric
to give an
motion, 36
Card
cradles, 250
cutting, 227
cutting, with punches arranged by
hand, 228
Smith
Brothers, 374
lacing, hand
frame, 247
of power
lacing machines,
Reid,
Fisher, Comparative consumption
and
crank
the
when
Parkinson's, 248
picking from
the
Co.
and
288
bottom
lacing machines,
's,
Singer
shafts,
249
Comparison of reeds, 351
of semi-open shedding with
other
lacing twine, 248
156
22
saving Jacquards,
methods,
Cards
loom
harnesses
to fall over
to save
end, 183, 187
cards,
Compound
187
199
to fall over
183,
warp,
Jacquards, 162
wiring, 249
Carpet pick, 288
reversing motions, 68
and
Catch
threads
with
tie harnesses, 197
mail, cam,
Cone
lever, 448
pick, 296
Centre
threads
of gravity in a shuttle, 267
to tail
Connecting harness
shed
95
cords
of
dobby,
Jacquard, 185, 189
shed
Construction
of cone-picking tappet,
Jacquards, 138
302
shedding, 19
of curved
plate for lever pick, 282
shedding compared with stationary
bottom
20
of Jacquard lifts,176
shedding,
of lappet wheels, 254
selvages, 436
of
French
motion
of lappet wheels, Scotch
make, 261
selvage
origin,
of negative tappets, 40
440
Shorrock
of positive tappets, 47
and
selvage' motion,
438
of reed, 350
Taylor's,

INDEX

Continuous
Cords

and

416

for

Davenport

and

Dickenson's,

Christy's,110

Peck's box motion,

beating up, 336
Cross-border
Jacquards, 167
Crossley'sJacquard, 141
Cowburn

97

Blackburn,

Butterworth

107

cloth, 38, 450

on

Cranks

Dobby,

179

Coupling,
Cover

taking-up motions, 387

of Jacquard hooks, 135

instead

467

93

pegs,

Crossley's cross-

and

Hattersley's, 102
lags, 93
Lupton and Place's, 107

Jacquai*d, 157
Dead
weight as a reversing motion, 62
Decked
dobbies, 88
Defects
of clasped healds, 6
of closed
shedding, 19
of Crossley'sJacquard, 145
of dead
weights for moving healds,
border

63
of eccentric

positive open shed, Knowles's, 113

reversing motion, 109
shedding, 79
Ward's, 102
Double
equal plain tie harness, 201
lift dobbies, 96
lift double
cylinder Jacquards, 146
lift single cylinder Jacquards, 138
picking bands, 310
shed
Jacquards, 160
Doup harness, bottom, 216

drop box motions, 415

harness, top, 222
Jacquard shedding, 192
of negative picking, 266
harness
in two
sections, 223
of ordinary brake, 358
Drafts, 12
of single lift negative dobby, 84
ing
Driving shafts, and gearing of weavof springs as reversing motions, 63
sheds, 461
of tappet shedding, 27
wheels
of looms, 452
of
of
box
Cowburn
and
weight and
system
motion,
Drop
rope
367
Peck's, 416
governing warp,
box
Depth of shed, to iind, 30
motion, Diggle's chain, 394
of
end
of
448
box
motion, Honegger's, 400
loom,
Design
framing
for double
Detectors
quards,
cylinder Jacboxes, Kay's, 393
148
boxes, Knowles's, 403
of

Devoge's

machine,
Jacquard,

Dimensions

for

cylinder

Smith's

and
in

weaving

Dwell

pattern chain,

modification

of

398

revolving

boxes

of tappet,

37

compared,

426

458
452

Eccentric

of parts of

Dobbies, right

and

loom, 3
left hand,

horizontal

cylinder,

movement

94
in

81
needle

with

movable

with

rotary movement

plate, 88
in cylinder,

90
with

swinging
cylinder, 89

with

boxes.

Diggle'schain,
394

columns

of

sheds,

boxes, to economise
Shaw's, 410
boxes, Shaw, 405

151

motion,

of cranks,

with

double

141

Jacquard,

Diggle's box

Division

-repeating

236

motion

stop

card

automatic

vertical

cylinder,

88

movement

movement

in

box

drop

motion.

Hacking and Co.'s, 411

's,411
drop box motion, Whitesmith
be
of
value
in
to
a
slay
Eccentricity
in weaving, 338
round
beam
Effect
of coiling ropes
ruffles,370
of connecting arms
movement
on
of slay, 340
of dipping the slay and
bending

in

reed, 304
high speeds on

the
of

pick, 298

MECHANISM

468
Effect

of

treadle

bowl

healds,
of

of

on

of

Hahlo,

38

weight
ahnttle, 267

eccentric

the

of

movement

Hall

and

Hanson's

and

Son's

66

semi-automatic

guard, 327

parts of fast reed

motion,

Hamblet

Clifton's

and

guard,

shuttle

drop

411

Liebreich,

322
on

Co.'s

motion,

spring-easing motion,

on

worn

and

box
movement

on

VING

Hacking

ment
move-

healds, 42

of
of

treadle

tappet

WE

OF

of

weft

coiled

on

Hanson

matic
semi-auto-

329

Crabtree's

and

automatic

weighting motion, 374

warp
Electric
Harker
and
172
Grayson's swell, 325
Jacqnard,
Harness
to give an
tric
eccenbuilding, 184
Ellipticalwheels
191
Dr.
dressing,
Cartwright's,
motion,
333
tied above
the comber
board, 184
the comber
tied below
board, 189
harness, 197
Equal compound
Essentials
102
of a good pick, 274
s
Hattersley dobby,
Estimate
force in picking,
of wasted
Haythornethwaite's
brake, 359
Heald
274
calculations, 12
Eyed healds, 7, 11
making, 8
setting, 17
shedding, 3
automatic
Farrell's
shuttle guard,
sizing and varnishing,8
329
twine, 7, 9
loose reeds, 318
Fast
and
Healds, 3
Figuring harness, 179
order
of knitting, 15
board
in position, 182
Fixing comber
position of, 7
of tappets on
loom, 25
of knitting, 15
rate
chains
Flexible
as
doups for centre
with
mail
eyes, 11
selvages, Briggs Bury's, 437
varying velocities of, 36
Force
of picking, 288
Height of Jacquard, 182
Fork
and
grid, 353
of loom
framing, 449
Framing of loom, 448
box
motion, 400
Honegger's
Frogs, 320
Hooks
in
pushed on griffeby blank
tongne, 270

the

card, 86
drafts

Gauze

and

for

with

Horizontal
Howarth

bottom

Jacquard, 218
produced with
produced

211,

225

219, 222,
harness

ties, 209,

doup,

216

ring temples, 435

and

Pearson's
160

Jacquard,

beads, 211
needles, 212

Inclined
Introduction

double-shed

ring temples,
of dobby,

433
80

reed, 213

weaving,

209

with

woven

motions,
Goos's

Jacquard,
double

lift

shedding

220

Jacquard

cylinder motion,

127

Jacquard hook,
Greek

healds,

Green

and

Guides

to

stop motion
cylinder Jacquards,
shuttle, 268

Bessbrook, 167
Bonelli's, 172
Crossley's, 141
Devoge and Co.'s, 141
Goos's cylinder motion,

Lambert's,

Barker's

double

136

Ainsley's,138

for
149

139

Shields's, 167

Verdol's, 164
bottom

board,

131

127

MECHANISM

470

boxes,

Negative drop
drop boxes,
drop boxes,
drop boxes,
drop boxes,

394

Diggle's chain,
Honegger's, 400
Kuowles's
Smith's

chain, 403
398

picking, 278

Points

repeating

card-

Position

of

of

dobbies, 105, 113

shed harness, Wilkinson's, 226
shed Jacquards, 152
shedding, 21
harness, with
Ordinary
Jacquard
215
added,
doup
Oscillating tappet, 54
Over
and
under
motions, 61
Open-bhed

of
of

loose

loom

reed

cranks,

regulated by

335
used
Piano

healds, 24
card-cutting machine,
to

cone,

line

warp

288

shuttle, 276

to

intermittent,

381

revolving scroll, 293

stationary, 291
swivel, 290
Yates's, 290
and
pick motions, 283, 287
to impart
a
push instead
blow
the
to
shuttle, 278
Pickers, 307
used

in

their

tappets, 47
Power
of slay to beat
loom, introduction,
Pressure

after

harness,

Principal
of

Principle

of

up,

345

206
of

motions

connected

loom

delivery at mill,308

Principles of dobby
of shedding, 18
Proportioning heald

265

Picking,
265, 280, 286, 289, 296, 300,
arm,

and

Pulling

warp,
catch

shedding, 80
twine

to

of

taking-up

motion,

bands, 309

Pin

frame

crank

Kay's,
for

shaft, 288
Range

265

lappets, 257

Placing Jacquards

over

looms,

dobby shedding,
shedding, 23
Jacquard, 120
of

of heald
183

of

reed

384

453

the

be

to

positively, 277
motions,
reversing

62
facture,
manu-

308

from

are

347

pick, Lyall's,305
picking, 305
taking-up
motion,

Lyall's,305

motion,

with

bowls, 75

contact,

motion

Jackson's, 285

treatment

tappet,

Keighley's, 376
241

296

materials

structing
con-

29

to strike the fabric

slay swords
at right angles, 347
of tappet on
loom, 25
of treadle
fulcrum, 42
Positive
beating up, 833
dobby, Christy's, 110
dobby, Knowles's, 113
drop boxes, 405
drop boxes, Shaw's, 405
let-off
and
motions,
take-up

move

Pick, carpet,

and

of

322

motion,

and

before

in

coupling knot, 187

healds
in loom, 7
for
beating up, 338
parts
machinery, 457
preparatory
and
fabric
reed
slay when
in

Over-picks, 296

of

considered

closed

of

stocks

239

of

of

be

to

automatic

cutting machine,
chain
tappet, 57

Parts

VING

40

tappets,
Nuttall's

WE

looms
in
Placing
position
462
sheds,
weaving
Plain
side selvages, 445
side selvages, with
boat, 445
side selvages, with
mails, cam,
lever, 447

394

modification

Diggle's chain,

of

OF

24

INDEX

Reading-ill

and

macliine

in

Shorrock

ting
card-cut-

repeating

combined,

471

card-cutting macliine, 230

Shuttle

slow

for

development

of

Sons', 327

calculations, 351

Reed

used

in

board,

181

Reed

of

place

comber

guard,
and

349

Reeds,
cardParkinson^s
Reid, Fisher, and
lacing machine, 248
of power
Relative
byconsumption
spring and weight, 65
of power
by stocks
consumption
bowls
and
and
weights, 69
of rain

Removal

water

from

roofs

of

weaving sheds, 460

of a box
motion, 394
Requirements
of
a
good
letting-off motion,
365

Reversing motions, principles of, 62

Revolving boxes, 423
Rule
for determining length of stroke
to be given to a slay, 345

Salt's

selvage motion, 442

automatic
Schilling's
weighting
warp
centre

motion,
Scroll

selvage

picking bands, 310

boxes, timing of, 456
guard, automatic, Farrell's,329
and
guard, semi-automatic. Hall

Short

power-loom,

centre

438

motion,

232,

234

Reasons

Taylor's

and

372

pick, revolving,

Hamblet

guard, semi-automatic, Marriott's,

328

guards, 326
guards, automatic,
guards, rigid, 326
boxes
governed
motion,
Shuttles

113,

of

277,

329

by

shedding

403

equal weight

and

size,

454

Singer Co.'s card-lacing machine, 249

Single-acting Jacquard, 122
acting reversing motions, 62
lift negative dobby, 81
picking bands, 310
roller temples, 430
roller
temples for distending a
fabric, 431
Sizes of driving wheels, 452, 463
Slay to swing from
top framing of
loom,

Slays
293

semi-automatic,
Clifton's, 329

Smith

with

347

compound

Brothers'

beats, 348
letting-

automatic

off motion, 374

pick, stationary, 291
thin
shaft centre
and
Space between
tappet, 61
35
Dr.
of
Cartwright's,
part
tappet,
Self-actingtemples,
427
Speeding of looms, 345
scale harness, 203
Semi-open shedding, 22
Split, or double
for
129
box,
dobby cylinder, Spring
Separate driving
86
Liebreich,
easing motion, Hahlo,
and
Hanson's, ^^
Setting a weft fork, 355, 456
of check
reversing motions, 63
strap, 312, 455
cords
tension
for lappets, 259
of loose reed
motion, 324, 456
of pick, 453
Springs of equal strength, 455
Stocks
and
of stop-rod blades, 321, 456
bowls, 68
double
for
of taking-up motion,
383, 456
cylinder
Stop motion
of temples, 433, 457
Jacquards, Devoge's, 151
quards,
fork tappet, 356, 456
of weft
motion
for double
cylinder JacGreen
and
Barker's, 14^
Shakers, 221
rod, 320, 321
Shape of picking tappet face, 301
box
Shaw's
motion, 405
Straight tie harness, 193
18
Strain
in shedding, 34
Shedding, principlesof,
upon
warp

Shields's Jacquard, 167

Strapping,

309

MECHANISM

472

Twine

318

Grayson's, 325

and

Barker

168

loops, as doups,
selvages, 437

for

centre

fast reed, 318

Swells,

moved

shuttles

motion, Kenyon's, 67
picks, 278
Unequal compound
harnesses, 197
Use
of shakers, 221
Uses of a dobby, 24
of a Jacquard, 120
Under

shuttle, 315

Swivel

by

rack

and

316

pinion,
weaving, 313
weaving, process of, 314
weft, tension on, 315
and
Swivels
lappets compared,

313

Value

showing

Table

VING

Riley's, Twilling Jacquard,

and

Swell, Collier, Evans,

WE

OF

of

movement

crank,

343

motions, 380
governed by

Taking-up
motions

the

reed,

of

tappet for shedding,

shuttle, varying, 273
Verdol's
Jacquard, 164
Vertical
punch, reading, in
card-repeating machine, 234
Velocity

24

of

and

391
Ward's

Tappet, barrel, 45
driving, 58
Jamieson's, 43
Nuttall's

Warp

Warped
Warping

position of, 25
positive, 47
shedding, 24
Woodci-oft's, 49

Waste

inclined

shed

ring, 435
ring, 433

shed
Weft

on

Tie-ups,
Time

of

Timing

in

rooms

weft, 315

and

rope
366

Whitesmith's

or
cording plans, 29
picking, 301, 453
and
fixing of parts of loom,

448

boxes, 456
Top doup harness, 222
light in weaving sheds, 460
Treadle
fulcnim, position of, 42
and
roller
temples, BulTrough
bar

353

for

Jacquard,143

Printed

by R

"

R.

governing

motion

motion, 411
Width
of loom
framing, 449
of passages
in weaving sheds,
Wilkinson's
open-shed harness,
Wire
healds, 10
Woodcroft's

tappet

box

with

tappet

for open

tappet

ring, 50

Clark,

226

healds,

53

Yates's

459

tappet, 49
connection

lough's,428
back

sheds, 457

or

walls, 457
fork, and grid,

Weight

of shuttle

Turning

picking, attempts

reduce, 275

for warp,

swivel

threads, 184

stop motions, 352

stop motion. Dr. Cartwright's,353

roller, 432

Tension

190

tioors, 462
roof, 460

shed

of, 427

use

harness

Weaving

single roller, 430

three
roller,432
two

harness,

of power
to

427

horizontal

368

line, 450

chain, 57

oscillating,54

Temples,

102

dobby,
beam,

pick,

290

Edinbui^h.

shedding,

51

WILSON

BROTHERS

CORNHOLME

TODMORDEN.

MILLS,
(ESTABLISHED

and

Largest

LIMITED,

Bobbin

complete

most

182a)
Shuttle

and

Works

in the

World.

18

A wards

for

Excellence

SHUTTLE
WILSON

BROTHERS,
it-Tree, etc.

Pru

The

Blocks

are

goods

of the

so

the

meet

to

as

Shuttle

DEPARTMENT.
make

Limited,

produce

all

of Manufacture.

Shuttles

in

and
well seasoned.
carefully selected
possible description, and embodying
requirements of our clients.

Every

best

varied

Cornel,

Boxwood,

the

Persimmon,
is taken

care

latest

to

improvements,

Wilson

Tongues."

given special attention

to
Brothers, Limited, have
to overcome
nearly perfect as possible. In order
difficulties
make
their
numerous
own
they now
forgings. Every bar is tested before
A special machine
has been
being forged, and only the best quality is used.
designed
in diameter
of which
as
by means
being supplied as accurate
Ring Spindles.
pegs are
the

of

production

Shuttle

Peg

as

ACCESSORIES.
Shuttle

Shuttle
Pegs in Iron, Steel, or Brass.
Pegs neatly repaired.
Guards.
Springs, Catches, and Wood
and
in Boxwood,
Shuttle
Pirns
Weavers'
Bobbins
Beech, etc.
Shuttle
Pirns
fitted with
Holden's
Patent
Brass
the Pirns
Tip, by which
are
prevented
from
splitting and the tipsare kept smooth.
Pins in Boxwood,
Shuttle
Vitse, or Ebony, also in Iron, Steel, or Brass.
Lignum
Picking Sticks and Picking Band
Pegs.
Creel Pegs and
Beam
Warping
Warping Creel Steps.
Wedges.
Shuttle

PATENT
Bobbins

These

WARPING
are

fitted

with

OR WINDING
our

Patent

perfect protection to the flanges.

for the flanges to open
or
come
loose, and does
and

is

Steel

Binder, which

The
not

BOBBINS.

Patent
add

is novel

Binder

makes

materially to the

in construction
it

impossible
weight of the

Bobbin.
with
applicable to Bobbins
flanges from
by its use there is a great saving of waste
yam
these
Steel Binders
with
Patent
flanges. Bobbins
have
with
met
unqualified success.
It is

and

INVENTORS

ORIGINAL

AND

STEEL

BRASS-PLATED

AND

inches

through
have

been

MAKERS

BOBBINS

to 18 inches
up
the
prevention

of

in

years,

use

for many

diameter,
broken
and

OF

AND

TUBES.

small
diameters
for fine
Tubes, with
Speciality of Iiight Oardroom
facilities for cutting, seasoning, and
excellent
partially preparing
have
We
before
both
Tubes
and
Bobbins
large stocks of regular sizes always
turning.
from
two
months
We
to two
thus
are
occupying
seasoning, the process
up
years.
unifonn
exact
and
diameters.
enabled
to guarantee
and
Bobbins
of Ring
Twist
Pirns.
We
the largest makers
are
Ring Weft
Every
"
Brothers'
Patent
Bobbin
is careftillybalanced.
C
Bobbins, with Wilson
Ring Twist
in
and
Bobbins
the
of
the
150
are
capable
are
market,
strongest
resisting
Shield,
per
cent
uian
more
plain Bobbins.
pressure
We

make

counts.

We

have

"

Office
Branch

and

Showrooms

Works:

(Open

Daily):

14

Market

Qarston,

Place,
Liverpool.

Manchester.

LAMBETH

They

firmly made

are

for

light

are

AlBO

in

DBUH,

than

BIM,

Yarn,

SCROLL,

and

LAMBETH

Tentum

^ainat^
grooves
A

LARGE

the

Bopes

STOCK

for

other

Cotton

SFINDLE,

to

any

Mills.

Cott

accurately measured
fitted

exactjyto

OF

ALL

SIZES

HART,
ESTABLISHED
No.

RING

SPINBLE,

the

for

and

working

provided

part

of

pulley.

THOMAS
Telephone

weighting material,

BOPEB
all

Friction

and

of the

any

yarn
from

made

being

BANDINOS

COTTON

supsrBatUng

and

and

without

TUBULAB

description

nstTUOtiOn.

usual

is

actual

more

weight

TAPE,

THE

solid, containing

very

Throstle

Egyptian

pure

and

diameter

given

ROPES.

COTTON

10.

Teleoraphic

KEPT

TO

MEET

URGENT

BLACKBURN.
1789.
Addreaa:

"Babt,

ORDERS.

the

HANDBOOKS.

TECHNICAL
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HYGIENE.

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ELEMENTS

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Ernest

By

With

Oxon.

By W.

DESIGN.

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A.

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With

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LEAD

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