FR

EE

ISSN 1853-9610

MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

N79 Jun - july 2016

Somm
People
The Sommelier
World Cup in
Mendoza

Winery Guide

Winery Guide

wine-republic.com

Ski Resorts

contents
News Republic
Every Cloud Has a Silver Jet liner......................
Google Goggles..........................................................
Expat Blues...............................................................
Somm People
The Best Sommelier in the World
tournament in Mendoza.......................................
How to become a sommelier ?.............................
Would you make a good somm ? .......................
And the winner is....................................................
The Fast Resort
Argentinas ski resorts have something for
everyone.....................................................................
Close to Mendoza....................................................
Further south............................................................

6
6
6

Food fot Thoughts

Finca Agostino, the must-eat-at-place in
Mendoza.................................................................... 18
Wishlist
We asked 4 well-known sommeliers for
recommended food and wine pairings........... 22

8
12
13
13

14
14
17

Out & About

Bars............................................................................... 24
Dining out.................................................................. 26
Winery Guide........................................................... 28
Maps & More
Map of Chacras de Coria....................................... 31
Useful information.................................................. 31
Map of Mendoza City Center.............................. 32
Map of Maip............................................................ 34

CREDITS
Issue June - july 2016 | ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Cover illustration : Donough OMalley
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Emilie Giraud - Ben Shirley
Photos: Felipe Martn Bravo and Emilie Giraud
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic
www.wine-republic.com

NEWS REPUBLIC
Every Cloud Has a
Silver Jet liner
While this magazine is loath to join the chorus of
protest regarding the closure of Mendoza Airport from
September to December, we do wonder why they could
not dig up the runway in the low season when the
airport has the least amount of passengers. However
hope springs eternal and we can only look forward
to Mendoza having a lovely new airport ready for
Christmas. What is curious is other significant news
regarding Argentinas airways barely reaching the back
page of the national newspapers. That is the recent
talks between the transport ministry and Ryanair, the
famous budget airline that opened Europes airways to
raucous, high rolling hen and stag parties. The arrival
of such an efficient and low-cost airline would certainly
shakes things up here and pose a huge threat to the near
monopoly that Aerolineas Argentina uses and abuses.
One telling figure is the employee per aircraft ratio of
both airlines. Ryanair have 30 staff per aeroplane whilst
Aerolineas has a whopping 188. Recent rumblings by the
government that they will be withdrawing the massive
subsidies received by Aerolineas means the future of
the national airline is dim indeed (watch this space for
strikes and flight disruptions) and the time is ripe for
some badly needed competition. One route Ryanair
should be looking at is Santiago de Chile to Mendoza
which currently costs a ridiculous $350 US for what is
a 25 minute flight. The poor state of the mountain land
crossimg and unpredictable weather means this route
could be one of the busiest in the country if fares came
down to a reasonable level. Step up Michael OLeary.
Stag parties are welcome.

Google Goggles
Its official. Armchair tourism has become a lot more
easier, especially in Argentina. Google Maps now allows
360 degree tours of Argentinas most beautiful natural
wonders. Thirteen of the countrys national parks can
now be toured from the confort of your sof. Sit back and
sip tea whilst you glide across glaciars, through jungle,
over waterfalls and down rivers. Google Street View
now covers Argentinas most iconic places including
the Petrified Forest of Jaramillo, the Glaciares, Iguaz
Falls, Mburucuya, Predelta, El Palmar, Patagonia, Los
Alerces, Lago Puelo, Los Arrayanes and Nahuel Huapi y
Lann. You may notice that Aconcagua does not feature
and thats probably because it inexplicably remains a
provincial park. Google why!

Expat Blues
I chose to live here because it was cheap, sunny and fun
declared one Mendoza expat recently. But that is not
the case anymore.
Regarding prices it is certainly true and 40% inflation
has killed the golden goose. Not so long ago 4 pesos
got you a litre of beer and a packet of cigarettes, now it
barely covers the charge to send a text message. As for
the weather, Mendoza has already received its quota of
rainfall for the year in the first four months. The citys
infrastructure, designed for Mediterranean sunshine, is
creaking under the soakage of a Scandinavian onslaught.
As for fun, well Mendoza still has a lively nightlife and
has actually improved in the choice of bars and microbreweries. The fabulous wineries are still here and the
spectacular scenery. So why the gloom? In this case the
ex-pat has only himself to blame he got married.

Somm People

The Best Sommelier in the World tournament was held recently

in Mendoza. Emilie Giraud checks out the competition
Its only 4pm on a Tuesday and an unprobable queue of
glamorous women in cocktail dresses and well groomed
men in tuxedos are pushing through the entrance of
the ornate Theatre Independencia in Mendoza city
center.
Mendozas wine aristocracy are out in full force to
attend the Oscar-like award ceremony of the Best
Sommelier of the World. Winery owners, managers
and winemakers have temporarily left behind their
considerable harvest worries to see and be seen at this
event, the first in Argentina since its creation in 1969.
During the four days of competition, sixty one
candidates and their entourage have been received like
royalty at some of Argentinas best known wineries and
enjoyed the cuisine of the countrys best known chefs.
This included an 18-hour roasting of an entire cow that
required no less than 2000 kg of wood to cook.
Eighty four wineries sponsored the event, paying a
minimum fee of 40,000 pesos and hosting numerous
events. One thousand different wines were available to
taste over the long weekend, and nearly 15,000 glasses
were polished by an army of 125 volunteer sommeliers.
8

So what is this enthusiasm for sommeliers? It has

surprisingly become such a hip profession in a world
where hospitality jobs are consistently undervalued.
One must wonder is there any room for the stiff wine
waiter in a modern world where casual is the new chic?
Lets start by asking what on earth is a sommelier.
Sommelier comes from the French word sommerier
referring to the person in charge of watching over
the pack animal. The word sommerier turned into
sommelier to describe more someone in charge of a
specific cargo. It is only in the 18th Century, alongside
with the apparition of the modern restaurant, that the
word started to be used exclusively in the context of
beverages and cigars.
Previously the butler would care for the wine storage
of the aristocracy and chefs would work exclusively in
the big estate houses. The idea of dining out in a fine
restaurant didnt appear before the French Revolution.
The first a-la-carte restaurant opened in 1782 and the
trend developed further with the rise of the bourgeoisie
and the collapse of the old establishment. Left without
a job, many chefs started to cook for the general public
and soon came to require wine stewards. At the time,

the job was quite different and not exactly as glamorous

as it is today. A sommelier was usually an embittered or
frustrated cook that bought barrels from wine sellers.
The profession slowly came into its own, and in 1907
the first Union des Sommeliers was founded in France
to ensure the rights of its members. The job started to
change in the 1940s when estate bottling and labeling
became the norm. A restaurant could store much
more variety of wines and the concept of the wine
menu appeared. The profession of sommelier suddenly
flourished.
Since the 1940s the profession and the image of the
sommelier has changed dramatically.
The sommelier is no longer that dull, middle-aged blacktied wine bore with an imperious manner, and imposing
nose, eager to sell you that over-expensive bottle of
French wine that he most likely earns a commision on.
Nowadays, he is more like an expert wine communicator
that recommends a certain label with cool, knowledgable
aplomb in an ever increasing, more casual style that
appeals to a younger generation of wine lovers The
average age of the competitors in Mendoza was 30 years
old.
The modern sommelier style is less rigid and frigid.
In many ways, he can even be described as a kind of
entertainer determined to ensure people have the very
best wine and dine experience. With the development
of technology and wine apps, he can no longer be the
one that transmits hard facts about certain wines.

10

Credits: Felipe Martin Bravo

11

He should be able to tell stories about the origin of each

wine and elaborate on wine concepts without sounding
like a snob.
He also needs to be a good people reader. In a way a
wine lover`s psychologist with enough empathy to
find the right wine for the right menu, for the right
occasion, for the right person.
The sommelier is not a person who is paid to spend
his day drinking wine. His daily agenda is way more
diverse than that. As a sommelier friend working in an
upscale Mendoza restaurant puts it :

overseeing the storage and care of wines.

The key, is to work closely with the chef to create
an harmonious food and beverage program. I also
need a team of well trained waiters. In my free time,
I am forever updating my knowledge of the regions
wineries and communicating through blogs, forums
and social media the latest trends.
Obviously I need to be impeccable in service., It is fair
to say I am slightly obsessive. Before serving, I check
that the bottle has the correct temperature and that
the glasses are in perfect condition. I always check the
wine for defects and use decanters, etc

As a sommelier, I have to develop and curate the wine

lists, monitor the purchases and sales according to the
menu and the types of clients we have. My day-today job also consists in managing the wine inventory,

Credits: Felipe Martin Bravo

HOW TO BECOME A SOMMELIER ?

Interested in becoming a sommelier ?
There are numerous courses and it is not necessary
to immediately get the official papers to work as a
sommelier. Only in 1999 was the official qualification
created by the Asociacion Argentina de Sommeliers.
To start it is a good idea to self educate yourself in wine.,
Visit wineries and taste and smell the most you can, not
just Argentine wines but labels from all over the World.
Many people join tasting groups to make the process
more fun.
Then, try to get experience in the industry like work in
a restaurant or wine shop, or as a tour guide in a winery.
Then if your enthusiasm has not wained, you should
think in training to get a sommelier certificate.

Gerard
Basset the
only som to
be master
sommelier
and master
of wine.

12

The most important institutions are the International

Sommelier Guild, the Court of Master Sommeliers, the
Institute of Masters of Wine or the Wine and Spirit
Education Trust.
But careful. Becoming a Masters Sommelier or a Master
of Wine is not easy and is a very very select club. In
its 40 years of existence of the competition, less than
200 people in the world have achieved the title Master
Sommelier. The exam covers literally every nuance of
the world of wine, spirits and cigars. Its an incredible
journey, that requires a huge budget and a lot of
sacrifice, never mind ones own sanity and personal life.
Despite the challenge the number of candidate has been
increasing exponentially in the last few years.

Arvid
Rosengren :
Best somm
of the world
2016.

Paz Levinston :
Best somm
fromAmerica
2016 Argentinian
candidate to
best somm of
the world .

WOULD YOU MAKE A GOOD SOMM ?

Think you have what it takes to be the best sommelier of the world ?
Here are some of the tasks the three finalists had to p erform in the Independence Theatre.
- Serve a magnum of Champagne in 30 glasses, each having the same level of
foam and wine in less than 8 minutes.
- Decant in the right decanter a magnum of red wine and serve it.
- Prepare a very dry Martini Cocktail.
- Recommend a menu to enjoy with a list of wine from everywhere in the World.
- Recommend a coffee to drink with specific chocolate truffles.
- Provide an in-depth analysis of different wines and spirits from around the world
- Guess the terroir, grape variety, winemaking process and vintage of a selection
of wines.
- Convince a potential buyer to make a significant purchase of unique wines
- Find the mistakes on a wine menu
- Have extensive knowledge on wine personalities, wineries, winemaking
processes, wine regions and subregions, wine legislation, and also know about
coffee, tea, cheeses, beers and licors.

Somm the Movie

You know a profession has become trendy when they make a movie about it. Somm (directed by Jason
Wise, 2013) is an entertaining and surprisingly dramatic documentary that follows the lives of four overcompetitive wine jocks as they try to pass the much prized Master Sommelier Exam in the United States.
This exam boasts to be one of the most difficult in the World, with only 200 succesful canditates over its
40-year history. The applicants run the gauntlet of demanding examiners as they try to show they have the
deep knowledge required in the World of wine, which includes trying to place the origin, year and varietal
of random wines in blind tastings. Needless to say, the movie does little to dispel the myth that the wine
industry is soaked in snobbery and over-sized egos.

And the winner is ...

Arvid Rosengren :
Best Sommelier of the
World 2016
From Sweden
31 year old
Abandoned a career in
nanotechnology for
food and wine
Started as a floor
sommelier in Denmark
Works in Charly Bird
Restaurant, New York
Runs a private consulting
firm King Street
Sommeliers

13

The
Fast Resorts
FreeImages.com/Artists Sheldon Pickering

Whether you are an international playboy with a penchant for skiing, or

a penny pinching backpacker whod like to learn, Argentinas ski resorts
have something for everyone.
Close to Mendoza:
VALLECITOS
This is where Mendocino ski history began. It is the
provinces oldest ski centre, nestled into the stunning
Cordon de Plata mountain range at an altitude of
2,900m (rising to 3,200 for the highest run). 80km south
west of Mendoza City and just 16km past Potrerillos,
it is perfect for day trips or one night stays. The
resort has a total of 12 runs, 20% for beginners, 60%
for intermediates and 20% for the advanced, making
for about 100 hectares of skiable ground (when there
is enough snow). Apart from the marked trails there
are a number of out-of-bounds bowls and chutes to
be explored. This is another resort that has outdated
equipment when it comes to world standards so take
the extra time suspended above ground to enjoy the
view. Vallecitos is modest in size but also in prices.
You best bet for accommodation is in the town of
Potrerillos

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Close to Mendoza:
LOS PENITENTES
What Los Penitentes lacks in size and glamour, it makes
up for ten-fold in scenery and accessibility. Named
after a row of monk-shaped peaks in the mountains,
this tiny village could not be more conveniently located
as it is literally bisected by the main road to Chile
(170km west of Mendoza City). With a base altitude of
2580m rising to 3200m, these powdery slopes provide
tremendous opportunities for all levels to downhill
or cross-country ski and snowboard. The resort has a
total of 28 runs, 11 of which have been approved by the
International Ski Federation. All vary in difficulty, and
stretch a total of 22 kilometers that cover around 300
hectares of mountainous slope.
Prices : Pass for one day : 600 pesos/persona
Rent equipment for one day : around 310 pesos /
person.

credits:
Mendoza.travel

Los Penitentes

LOS PUQUIOS Parque de Nieve

This is much more than a ski resort. In fact, it is a snow
park of 4 hectares located at 2680 m. There are a handful
of different ski runs here (with varying levels some
which are good for beginners as well as others designed
for intermediate skiers) but this unpretentious and family
friendly resort also has a large variety of other activities on
offer. If you dont want to ski or snowboard but like to stay
on your feet you can have a go at snow shoeing, which is
basically trekking around the resort with shoes similar to
tennis rackets on your feet, or you could try your hand at
ice skating in the small ice rink by one of the restaurants.
However for those of us who quite like to use their bottom
as a snow cushion there are a couple of fun options, and
dont trick yourself into thinking they are just for children.
Try out the culi-patin (literal translation butt skating) for a
surprising adrenaline rush throwing yourself down a large
hill on slippery plastic sledges, or go tubing and sit your
derrier in a large inflatable rubber tyre as you slide down
the slopes either way you are bound to be a convert.
There are also play areas for the rug rats to make snowmen
and throw snowballs at each other, while the adults sit
back with a beer or homemade rustic argentine food at the
restobar nearby. And if you want to spend an entire day
at the resort, Los Puquios offers night skiing three nights
a week with floodlit pistes, live DJs and mulled wine. Los
Puquios is just a couple of kilometers further up the road
from Penitentes with the same gorgeous Andean scenery.

Los Puquios

Los Puquios

Los Penitentes
credits:
Argentina.travel

Los Penitentes
credits:
Argentina.travel

Further South:
LAS LEAS
445km south of Mendoza City in the heart of the
Andes, this is the biggest, the best, and by far the most
expensive of the resorts in the area. It attracts snow
starved enthusiasts from the north who cant bear the
thought of a summer without snow, along with wellheeled Argentines who ski by day and party by night.
Las Leas has a total of 35 marked runs that cover a
distance of about 64km, the highest of which reaches
3,430m. Of these runs, 30% are to be considered
beginner, 25% intermediate, 20% black and another
25% double black. One run even includes the added
spectacle of lights and music to accompany your ride.
For those craving more adventure than a double-black
can offer, there are said to be around 4,000 hectares
of off-peak slope. Keep on eye on the forecast because
if it starts snowing, staff close all but 2 lifts inciting
dreadful hour-long lines at the base. The ski-lifts are
mildly outdated and even during normal conditions
the ride from the base to the summit takes about
45 minutes. The village at Las Leas base contains
modern luxury hotels, restaurants, casinos, nightclubs
and of course a multilingual ski school. If you decide
to stay in nearby Malargue (70km) you get a 50%
discount on the lifts. Buses leave regularly from the
Mendoza bus terminal. www.laslenas.com
Price : 920 pesos / person / day
Price rent equipement : beween 360 pesos to 610
pesos according to quality /day
Los Molles

Las Leas

LOS MOLLES
Close to Las Leas is Los Molles ski resort. Tranquil and
low key, it has the added attraction of thermal baths to
wind down after a hard day on the slopes.

credits: Argentina.travel

BARILOCHE
The most famous resort in Bariloche is Cerro Catedral
which is one of the largest and oldest ski areas in
South America with its 600 ha, 53 ski and 38 lifts. The
different routes on this mountain are endless including
a run with a vertical drop of 3,000 feet. Activities here
are dominated by ski and snowboarding, but you can
also try out Nordic skiing in the forests and there is a
terrain park too. The main base for this resort is Villa
Catedral at the base of the mountain which has rental
shops as well as all your necessary conveniences.
www.catedralpatagonia.com

Cerro Catedral

credits: Argentina.travel

Cerro Catedral

credits: Argentina.travel

17

Food for

Thought

Finca Agostino restaurant has

quickly established itself as the
must-eat-at-place in Mendoza.
Emilie Giraud tucks into what is
also a beautiful family winery and
art gallery
Located in Barrancas district of Maipu, on the dry
riverbed of what used to be the Rio Mendoza , Finca
Agostino is a family venture that spans two continents
and half a century. The grandfather Sabastiano
Agostino was a Sicilian migrant who worked as a
contracter vintner in Mendoza. In the 1960s the family
moved to Canada where the son and grandchildren
started a construction business. The business was a a
success and in 2003 the brothers decided to complete
the family dream by creating a winery in honor of
their grandfather.
He was obviously held in high regard and the winery
is a tribute to all things Mendocino which includes a
terrace that offers a dramatic view over the vineyard.
Here you can walk in the shadow of a 60-year-old
pergola trimmed by roses. There is a delightful garden
with fountains and outdoor sculptures and a lovely
Spanish courtyard covered with blue ceramics, inspired
by Mendoza Citys Plaza Espaa where the family were
originally raised.

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Besides offering regular visits and tastings, the winery

currently offers the best cooking class in Mendoza., which
is very much hands on and interactive. You pick your own
vegetables in the organic orchard and prepare and cook
each dish under the professional eye of the chef Sergio. All
accompanied by great wine of course.
Another highlight is the 5-course-lunch paired with 5 of
their best wines. The pairings are simply brilliant, devised
by both the winemaker Jose Pedro Gomez and chef
Sergio Guardia together. Goat cheese grilled with sugar
and zucchini is perfectly balanced by the sweet aromas
of a Torrontes. It fits perfectly with its dryness and good
acidit. Fried vegetable ravioli goes with a smooth Merlot.
The main course is filet mignon served with the Agostino
Familia blend. The service is perfect and the portions
generous.
For siesta what better than to take a glimpse in the
exhibition room and its collection by local artists.

BODEGA FINCA AGOSTINO

Carril Barrancas 10590 (5517) Barrancas, Maip,
Mendoza, Argentina
T +54 261 5249358/9 - 524 9858/9 - info@
fincaagostino.com
Open Monday to Sunday. From 10 to 5 - booking
required

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WISHLIST

by 4 Somms

We asked 4 well-known sommeliers for recommended food and wine pairings. The
wine had to be from a local boutique winery and the food a typical Argentine dish.
Florencia Gonzalez de Balverde, head sommelier at
Azafran restaurant.
Wine : Ambrosia Chardonnay from Finca Ambrosia
Food : Tomatican

This Chardonnay comes from Gualtallary in Valle de Uco,

at more than 1.250mts above sea level.
The fact that this beautiful Chardonnay went through oak
smoothed the typical fruity note of the variety, gives it
more tropical-like aroma and deepens its persistency in the
mouth.
It goes well with the local tomatoe dish Tomatican as it
brings out the spiciness of the dish and adds freshness.

Luis Mantegini director of the website www.

culturasommelier.com.ar
Wine : The Relator Tempranillo
Food : Pastel de papa (meat and potato pie)

The Wine El Relator Tempranillo comes from La Consulta

(San Carlos, Valle de Uco). Made by winemaker Pepe
Reginato, this wine spent 16 months in oak. Perfect to pair
with a pastel de papa that has spices such as cinnamon. The
pies juicy filling requires a wine with firm tannins, good
body and complexity to be enjoyed fully.

Somm : Andres Lafarge, head sommelier at the Park

Hyatt Mendoza.
Wine : Cabernet Sauvignon de Angeles , Bodega Via 1924
Dish : Loin of lamb
This unoaked wine from Vistalba has a deep red color
with ruby reflections, intense aroma of fresh black berries,
spices and earthiness. In the mouth it is elegant, consistent,
with vibrant tannins, well integrated alcohol and shows
notes of red pepper and spices. I would pair it with loin of
lamb, sauted with mushrooms and artichokes, asparagus
and mint couscous, rosemary and mustard honey.

Somm : Juvier Aliaga Valles, sommelier at Lesprit du

Vin, Lima, Peru.
Wine : Carmelo Patti- Malbec
Dish : Game meat or stew
This aged Malbec has a pomegranate color with
subtle red-brick reflection. The nose has mature fruits,
gooseberry, cassis as well as notes of spices like cinnamon
and vanilla, blended with well-integrated notes of leather
and mushroom. In the mout hit has a medium density and
a large finish. The ideal meal to pair it with would be with
stewed game meat like lamb or hare

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bars
inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva
Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred
to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to
San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out
because the clubs dont even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located
out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
MATIAS DOWN TOWN
Victorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is
enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.
Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting
in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San
Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendozas version is right
in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or
some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.
ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.
Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.
believeirishpub.com.ar
TAVERNA Beer Hall
In the heart of Chacras de Coria, nestled in an old brick winery,
Taverna is a cool industrial like beer hall with a vintage
touch. It is the ideal place to gather with friends or mingle
with the locals around its big tables. Cosmopolitan music, a
diverse wine and beer selection and tasty snacks including
salads, pizzas, quesadillas, nachos and waffles, makes it a new
trendy option to shake up Mendocinian nightlife. Open from
Thursday to Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am. Happy hours 7 pm
- 10 pm. Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria - 0261 496-6161 .

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dining out
MENDOZA CITY
La Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a

casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every
night of the week who come for the
honest, traditional Argentine food and
friendly and warm atmosphere. Classic
dishes like the hearty empanadas
and sizzling asado are worthy and
popular fare but the real star here is
Patronas warm, open sandwiches We
recommend the artichoke hearts and
goats cheese; roasted vegetables with
white wine and honey; or the more
traditional pick of rich glands cooked
in lemon. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de
Julio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat:
12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close.
Avg. meal cost: $150/(including starter,
main dish, dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill Q

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill

Q serves up traditional regional cuisine
at a five star level. Sit back in the chic
parilla style restaurant amongst the
cowhides and local artwork, pick from
one of the many Mendocinean wines,
make your order and watch the chefs
at work in the open kitchen. They are
famous for their grilled meats and
gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty
Argentine classics such as locro - a
stew which hails back to the early
independence days. Save room for the

stunning desserts. The Hyatts other

restaurant, Bistro M, offers a more
gourmet evening menu and the most
exuberant lunch menu in town. With
a gorgeous buffet spread of starters like
squid and basil stew, crispy calamari
with cool gazpacho and mezze style
tapas, youll need to bring your stretchy
waistbands to fit in the hearty and
flavourful main options and the
sumptuous dessert buffet on top.. Chile
1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill Q
$250 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu
$280 with starter buffet, main course,
dessert buffet and glass of wine.

El Mercadito

With an attractive fairy lit patio and

terrace outside, this is the perfect spot
for some lunch time sunshine or al
fresco dining. Run by three friends, El
Mercadito has a cool vibe and relaxed
music making it a favorite. Opened
recently by three friends, El Mercadito
is offering something a little bit
different to Mendoza. Opening in the
morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays
open throughout the siesta with its
light menu of sandwiches, big salads
and some Argentine classic meals. El
Mercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521,
(261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150.
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te:
4962267.

ambience. The pasta is the best thing

here, maintaining original recipes
from over 60 years ago; we recommend
the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out
the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity
credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias
Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.
meal price: $170

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro has been an important

restaurant on Mendozas food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesnt stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with a pot
of delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.
Along with a handful of salmon dishes
there are a host of different foods on
the menu including classic steak, rich
lamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighter
options including big salads, sharing
platters and vegetarian dishes. While
lunch and dinner is still its main game,
the beautiful gardens and restaurant
are open for breakfast from 8am. Av.
Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818.
Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost:
$190 pesos.

Effe Cucina

Effe Cucina is the closed-door restaurant of

chef, interior designer, and globetrotter
Florencia Previtera. This bubbly and
talented Mendocina studied in a
top Chilean gastronomy school and
traveled Europe for ten years from
kitchen to kitchen before she decided
to get back to her roots and set up her
own project. At weekends she turns her
kitchen into a laboratory of flavors and
her stylish living room into an intimate
dining space. Her refined cooking has
a home-made touch and she uses highquality seasonal products in quantities
that wont let you starve.. Reservations
required. Cellphone / Whatsapp:
+5492612370023.
Facebook : Effe cucina

Anna Bistro

La Marchigiana

Effe Cucina

26

As the first Italian restaurant in

Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty
of history and traditional recipes to
whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria
Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family
restaurant started off with only six
hearty Italian dishes but has grown
into a popular local fixture which is
always busy despite its curious lack of

El Oso

Josefina Rest

Josefina Rest

The trendy, cosmopolitan international

cooking experience Josefina Rest is an
island of elegance on hectic Aristides
Street. The building is a playful mix of
the urbane and the natural. The warmth
of vintage style drawings adorning the
walls are illuminated through large,
handsome street windows.
Such an abundance of natural light
makes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.
After work hours, youre welcome
to pop up for some gourmet tapas
accompanied with a rotating selection
of by-the-glass wine. At sunset, a
thoughtful combination of candle and
industrial light bulbs will put you in
the mood for a fine dinner. The food is
eclectic, seasonal, and very personal - a
fusion of Anas mum traditional recipes
and of her own international cooking
experience. Dont miss the Goat and its
sweet red pepper pasta accompanied
with clay-oven grilledvegetables and its
parsley sauce! www.josefinaresto.com.
ar Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza
5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

El Oso

The project of two globetrotters,

Molly from Iceland and Nacho from
Argentina, El Oso offers fusion food
with the focus on fresh, healthy
and seasonal ingredients served in a
cheerful and relaxed atmosphere.
Try their fresh fruit and vegetable
juices. They also do a mean Colombian
patacone served with pico de gallo
and sour cream. If thats not enough
they have an excelllent selection of
vegetable pies. El Oso is a good option for
a casual lunch in the hectic city center.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from
9am to 11pm. Delivery also available.
Espaa 1068 - 0261 633-8640.

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Terruo - Club Tapiz

Tucked away among the sprawling

Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz
Resort and its lovely restaurant

Terruo. This handsome eatery boasts

an elegant interior, excellent service
and a wine list that is sure to please
even the most finicky of wine snobs.
Their chef compiles a tantalising
menu that includes top notch lomo
steaks, a rotating range of salads and a
savory ginger/honey chicken dish that
is second to none. If you like what you
see and taste, book a room in one of
their seven Renaissance-style villas.
Dont forget to call ahead for dinner
reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.
Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,
Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Finca Agostino

Elegance, history and the perfect

marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at the
restaurant of Finca Agostino winery.
Ancient vines with stems as thick
as tree trunks look in upon a light
filled, stylish interior with enough
space to dance a tango. The overall
vibe is polished and handsome. The
food is equally majestic - 5 courses of
well thought, imaginative dishes that
are paired exquisitely with all the
wineries wines - often explained and
described by the chef Sergio Guardia.
The menu is seasonal with much of
the ingredients freshly picked from
the propertys organic vegetable
garden and orchard. Creamy pumpkin
soup was the starter when I dined
there and the main course a choice
between prime beef or Mendoza kid
goat. If you have time make sure to
take a tour of the property which
includes an art gallery and replica
plaza of Plaza Espaa in Mendoza city.
Cookery classes are available where
you get to pick your own ingredients
and prepare and cook bread on an
open fire, empanadas, humitas and
asado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.
tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400
pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

Ruca Malen

Ruca Malen winery is synonymous

with gourmet food & wine pairings
in Mendoza. It was a pioneer in this
area and deservedly won Best winery
restaurant experience in the World
in 2013. Such a distinction has to be
sustained. The winery recently took
on a new chef Juan Ventureyra. I
find Juan in the restaurants organic
garden, beret on head, observing
the raw material. The best cuisine
and best wine start with the care of
the earth and the plants he says. To
get inspiration for the perfect winepairing experience, Juan walks the
vineyard and spends hours with the
winemaker. I taste the wine at every
step - as a fruit, during its fermentation
and the aging process. With the
winemaker, I wrote down a list of
aromatic descriptors, then I make a list
of the ingredients that can match it
well, I decide on a cooking technique,
and the winemaker approves the
final menu. The menu is designed to
underline the characteristics of Ruca
Malens wines. The 5-step-autumn
menu called the spirit of the wine
is a journey through the different
universes of the winemaking process.
Having lunch in Ruca Malen is also
a visual experience, from the food
served in creative plates designed
especially for the occasion by local
craftsmen to the breathtaking view
one gets of the Andes and the vineyard.
It also offers great vegetarian and
gluten-free options.
Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 553 7164
Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236 mendoza@bodegarucamalen.com

Ruca Malen

27

the winery guide

MENDOZA CITY
Los Toneles

Handsome, Old World winery located

5 minutes from the city center.
Direccin: Acceso Este Lateral Norte
1360, 5519 Mendoza. Telfono: 0261
431-0403. Open everyday. mail:
turismo@bodegalostoneles.com

LUJAN DE CUYO
Terrazas de los Andes

The fine wine sister of Chandon

Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.
(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and
Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de Chacras

Catena Zapata

Showcase winery designed like a Mayan

temple overlooking vineyards and the
Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.
(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta Vista

Masterful mix of modern and

traditional.
Tasting
includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

Nieto Senetiner

Located in a beautiful old winery in

Chacras, Senetiner was founded in
1888 and makes a great range of wines
and sparkling wines. (261) 496 9099,
Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de
Cuyo.
www.nietosenetiner.com.ar
Senetiner

Charming boutique operation with

nice history. A five minute walk from
Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.
(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte
Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
closdechacras.com.ar

Melipal

Luigi Bosca

Mendel

The Arizu dynasty are the royal family

of Argentine wine and their seat of
operations is a handsome and elegant
110-year old winery. (0261) 498 1974.
San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

Renacer

This Chilean-owned winery creates

the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes a
hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen
1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or
261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.
com.ar

Kaiken

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a

new venture by the prestigious Chilean
winery Montes. Big and powerful
wines, destined for fame. TEL (0261)
4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153
530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453)

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches

make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
An old style winery ran by one of
Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

Via Cobos

American winemaker Paul Hobbs

was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com

Tapiz

28

A boutique traditional sparkling wine

producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com

Dante Robino

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com

Septima

A beautifully designed winery with

clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

Alpamanta

Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set

in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com

Pulenta Estate

Cool minimalist design and rich

complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com

Norton

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261) 490
9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de
Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end

restaurant Terruo and an instructive
wine tour including barrel and
bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta
Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Benegas Lynch

Belasco de Baquedano

Caelum

Gleaming modern facility with

fascinating
aroma
room
and
restaurant with Andean view. (0261)
524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.belascomalbec.co
Kaiken

Cruzat

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely

old bodega with lots of character. Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com
Modern, medium size winery on the
main road to Chile just before the
mountains and has a nice family feel
to it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.
R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.
bodegacaelum.com.ar

REFERENCES

LOCATIONS REFERENCES

Restaurant

Lujn de Cuyo

San Martn

Lodging

Maip

Valle de Uco

Driving time from Mendoza City

Mendoza City

Art Gallery

Familia Cassone

Chandon

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making

great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,
Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del Plata

Argentinas most famous female

winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in
the heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Lagarde

Owner of the oldest white wine in

South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year
old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San
Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond. Lujn
de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Casarena

A beautiful mix of old and new, this

winery mixes tradition and modernity
in an old style winery with a super
modern restaurant with splendid views
of the vineyarsd and mountains.
Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.
casarena.com.
Tel 2616967848.

A charming, family owned winery

in a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine
tinted ros amidst the pastoral
splendour of the owners expansive
garden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)
424 6301.
www.familiacassone.com.ar

Ruca Malen

Excellent food, great guiding and

first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary experience. (0261) 5537164
-2614540974. R.N.7 mapa_maipu al
29-5-16-01.jpg Km 1059, Agrelo, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com
Attractive, modern facility with
spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

A modern winery in Agrelo. The

winery restaurant Ojo de Agua, has
a delighful setting next to a vineyard
lake. Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel
2615731688.
hospitality@ojodevino.
com

Carmelo Patti

Mendozas most famous garagista.

Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

Trivento

Trapiche

Argentinas biggest winery is a mix of

old and new, traditional and industrial,
and has the old train tracks leading
up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.
Coquimbito, Maip. www.trapiche.
com.ar
Ruca Malen

Tasting room where one entire wall

is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque
Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.
carlospulentawines

Ojo de Vino

Trivento

Located in the bucolic splendour of

southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful
deck set amidst the vineyards and
offers bicycle excursions within the
property. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,
5517 Maip, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 413
7196. www.trivento.com

Decero

Vistalba

Casarena

Maip

El Enemigo

One of Argentinas most talented

winemakers
Alejandro
Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261
697 4213

Finca Agostino

Achaval Ferrer

Elegant and picturesque winery with

ancient vines and walled orchard.
Offer superb lunches and cookery
classes.
Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.
2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

Budeguer

Modern winery in the wide open

vineyards of southern Maipu.
Intense,
complex
wines.
Art
exhibition all year long.
Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.
Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

Modern boutique close to Mendoza

riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com

Modern-style Budeguer winery offers

you the chance to blend wine and art
in a warm and relaxed atmosphere.
Its superb terrace is open until 8pm
and is the perfect spot to sip a glass
of Malbec enjoying the sunset.
Reservations required at turismo@
budeguer.com or +549261 6830749www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. Mendoza.

Don Manuel Villafane

25

29

the winery guide

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.
(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros
2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.
bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin

A family winery using organic and

biodynamic principles where you can
see the entire process from the beautiful
green vineyards to the minimal
intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA
Saez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.
com.ar

Diamandes

Familia Di Tommasso

Officially the second oldest winery in

Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Familia Zuccardi

A professional, far-sighted operation.

Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas

Making real vinos de autor, US born

Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery
in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high
end wines, a visit and tasting is with
the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas
Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP Cava

Premium wines made from different

terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip - (261)
4813201/4668048

Rutini / La Rural

Well-stocked
museum
with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant oak
30

Salentein

Designed like a temple to wine, this ultraconcept winery includes a modern art
gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the
Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n,
Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

O. Fournier

Most architecturally innovative winery

with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent
lunches in the modernist visitor center.
(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta,
San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Carinae

Gimenez Riili

Small, charming, French-owned winery

offering personal tours and well-honed
wines. Surrounded by vineyards and
olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda
2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com

A brand new family run affair, part of the

exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This
is a modern winery in a stunning setting.
0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta
94 (s/n), Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.
com

Tempus Alba

Bodega Masi

A fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop
terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481
3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maip. www.
tempusalba.com

Lopez

Popular, old-style winery with two

museums on the wine. Restaurant
offers gourmet cuisine with a panoramic
view. (0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral
Gutirrez, Maip. www.bodegaslopez.
com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

VALLE DE UCO
Andeluna

The old-world style tasting room looks

upon dramatic views of vineyards
against mountains. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

Atamisque

This Uco winery has some great white

wines, a unique stony roof and they
breed their own trout which is served
in the charming restaurant.(0261)
156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,
Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La Azul

Simple, small production winery with not

so simple Malbecs and a small traditional
restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.
Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.
bodegalaazul.com

Fascinating Italian job in the heart of

Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially the
Amarone inspired varietals and unusual
blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.
masitupungato.com

Domaine Bousquet

Another French transplant to the

Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, this
sizeable operation produces high altitude
Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec and
now has a popular restaurant serving
excellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta
89. Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.
com Tel 2615274048

The Vines of Mendoza

Best described as a cooperative of wine

lovers around the World who have
all bought a vineyard plot each in Uco
Valley and are making their own wine
in a central winery with experts such
as Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add to
this a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley will
never be the same again.
Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

Diamandes

Modern,
imposing
winery
with
magnificent wines, part of prestigious
French group Clos de los Siete. Calle Silva
S/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.

Finca Sophenia

Modern, high tech winery in stunning

location. High quality wines overseen by
Matias Michellini. www.sophenia.com.
ar Tel. 02622-154-45622

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most
economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert.
Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and
internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza
street (see below) where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture
can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and
certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which
can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill
equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before
2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and
eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the
arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make
sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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