I begin a series of three articles devoted to the issue of climate

damper actuators.
In this article we consider the symptoms, theory and practice
repair drives. Here I will try to collect and organize all the info,
that workers dug forums and blogs. Well, and confirm their
experience piecewise)
The next two articles will focus on dismantling the drives
themselves:
V107, V158, V159, V71, V113, V425
V70, V213
Go.
1. Symptoms
The article can be useful to you if:
- From the "torpedo" heard the incessant rhythmic sounds
moving damper;
- The climate became sluggish blowing only slightly varying the
temperature and pressure of the blown air, regardless of the
engine speed;
- In the block 08 "Heating and ventilation" hanging and removing
errors reappear executive electric duct dampers;
You all right, but it is interesting that there are controls of air
masses and how it looks.
2. Materiel
Section for those who want to know what's what, and why.
To understand what is happening, you must have an idea about
what are the problem servos and how they work.
They were in the Passat 6 or 7, depending on the year. Each
controls one or more valves and obeys commands climate
control unit. Schematically, the location of the drive is indicated
below:

Servo in our case is an electric motor with position feedback actuator. Climate
control unit supplies power to the motor and feedback monitors the position of
the damper via a feedback loop; when the desired angle of rotation off the

voltage on the motor. Motor control loop and feedback electrically not connected.
Feedback by means of a potentiometer.
Potentiometer (again, in our case) a simple device that changes its electrical
resistance when turning the actuator. Implemented is quite simple the axis of
rotation of the contact plate is connected to the damper, which in regard to one
point located underneath a graphite arc (open ring). To one end of the arc control
unit supplies a constant voltage to the other end and a pad removes "the rest" of
the voltage and the received values calculates the resistance of the whole arc,
resistance portion to the contact pad, and based on this data calculates the
position of the damper. To prevent the release of the sliding contact area of
graphite arc used mechanical stops (stop).
What could go wrong?
First , could "fly off" adaptation, that is, the data stored by the control unit of the
minimum possible and maximum possible throttle position. This may be because
over time, the mechanical and electrical parameters of the mechanism of
change. As a result, it is possible that when the actual value is, for example,
more than the maximum, resulting in adaptation (graphite wears track, then its
resistance increases). In this case, the data adaptation lose relevance. And, of
course, it needs to adapt to the new control unit, as well as the replacement or
resuscitation drives.
Second , can rub (just) a graphite arc, resulting in poor contact and the control
unit receives feedback. This is a very rare case.
Third , on the sliding contact or graphite track can gather thickened times grease
or attrition of the track, thereby to change the resistance and the received
feedback information will not be accurate (in fact, for smooth movement pad
resistance in some positions will change not gradually but abruptly). In practice,
this leads to inaccessibility of some provisions control unit "sees" as a damper
close to the desired value, then suddenly jumps to it. Block change direction
motor of the purpose to take the position that "slipped", there is a new
"breakthrough." As a result, we have continuous movement flaps back and forth
in an attempt to take a position. Everything would be fine, except that it is many
times faster deterioration of the already not very "healthy" potentiometer. Yes,
and drives the gear useless busy work that is not to their advantage.
3. Diagnostics
If your climate is slightly freezes or heats, without changing the temperature of
the blown air, depending on the settings most likely to do the adaptation.
This can be done lace VAG-COM:
Selection of the control unit 08 Electronics air conditioner / heater Basic
Options choose a group Potentiometer & Flap Alignment start the process.
Note: this and some other operations (for example, erasing errors) can be
performed directly from the climate control panel, more here .

After the check if the result is not, look for an error on drives. Their presence is
directly point to the culprit celebration.
In my case, the adaptation does not work, there were no errors, but the sound of
moving almost constantly pesters dampers. To find out what kind of drive
"dancing to" need to display graphics of all the drives.
To do this, go to the control unit according to the instructions above and open
custom groups.
We note jackdaws in groups from 11 to 16 indicators 1 (current value) and 2 (the
desired value). Another drive (mysterious V213) is not registered in the Vase, so
monitor without schedule of the 18th measurement channel. Next, twist a knob
any climate and look at the charts:
As you can see, the motor 3 behave normally, changing the position after the
change the desired value. But the other 2 drives "dance", trying to "ustakanilos",
and one of them eventually succeed.
Remove from the working daw drive and look closely at the "hanging out":
We convince their inferiority, remember, on what groups they hang, and go into
the measured group to find out who is who. Or you can look at this picture:
A small comment: Remember, at the beginning of this article, I wrote that the
drive 6 or 7? So measuring channels allocated for the drives 7. Moreover,
while the new drive, which replaced the 2 predecessors, and gave his name
V425, change the heap of documentation and coding firmware control units do
not deem it necessary, and where a lot of the new drive appears under the name
one of the old V70. This second measurement channel of the "old men"
V113 is simply empty.
Immediately bring the codes of spare parts, not to look for:
V70 3C0 907 511 E Drive central flap
V107 3C1 907 511 A flap defroster
V113 3C1 907 511 H recirculation flap
V158 3C1 907 511 F temperature control valve on the left
V159 3C0 907 511 R temperature control valve on the right
V425 (V71) 3C0 907 511 A drive ventilation flaps, air inlet, and (for V425)
recycling.
V213 3C0 907 511 (in ETKA missing, code is copied from the drive)
shutters drive even air distribution.
In fairness, it should be noted that all the drives themselves are absolutely
identical, differ only stuck outside lever. So they can be easily interchanged.

4. SIGNS, or diagnosis of symptoms

Comments have suggested supplementing Article this section.
Sometimes the diagnosis indicates that all is well, but observations suggest
otherwise.
This can be, if flew off thrust from the drive, broken / jammed valve or something
else like that.
Identify a problem, you can use the damper circuit.
The scheme is not from our Climatronic, but it helps to understand that how and
where.
If not blowing at all or sluggish, regardless of fan speed see valve ventilation
and recirculation. In addition, it is worth checking whether the hot radiator heater,
more lead-pipe for him in the next article says how to get there.
If only blowing hot / cold or any other, the same thing everywhere most likely
the case in the shutter actuator (s) for adjusting the temperature. We have two of
them V159 and V158. Another good idea to check the temperature sensor.
When false testimony all the work climate is awry.
Well, after all, and it is obvious by the scheme. The only thing not clear to even
air distribution damper. Hard to tell exactly where it is in the scheme should be
responsible for what ((
5. Opening / Closing
Section vast, according to this submitted to the individual entries:
V107, V158, V159, V71, V113, V425
V70, V213
After the hell of the Kama Sutra with the removal of drives we get the following:
And the back side:
Here are the most visible levers, which are the only difference between the
drives.
6. Repair
Analysis of the drive does not pose absolutely no problem the case is closed
on the latch, all of them in plain sight. Open the case, we will see something like
the following:
The insides of all drive identical:
You can start with the diagnosis of the main elements of the drive motor and
gears. Gears visually inspect to motor is 12 volts. Spinning = working, simple)) It

is advisable not to turn the gears much that when installing ago they were in
about the same position as when removed.
If the engine and gears in the normal look potentiometer (green photo). To take it
off just pull up. Ohmmeter is connected to the middle, and one of the outer
legs, gradually turn white ring and follow the indications. Should vary smoothly
from 0 to 4 kW. If the resistance jumps our client :)
Repair usually comes down to restore a reliable contact in the sliding
potentiometer. If no effect at all, it means that probably rubbed herself path and
then have only a replacement.
The problem generally consists in thickening the old grease and clogging its
products abrasion track. Some reports suggest disassemble it, which is
associated with some risk of permanent damage. In other washed spitre.
Someone pshikat WD-40. In general, the options are many.
Grease viscous substances, I threw out the fact that it is necessary to
disassemble the potentiometer (and would not want to). Although, of course, it is
the most competent option in terms of well-being of the sliding contact. If all the
same will understand, it is possible to lubricate medical Vaseline. Instructions
indiscriminately potentiometer .
Alcohol all washes away, and the evaporated completely. The result a slider
running "dry", which is not good.
WD-40 judging by the reviews good option clean, gets a bang, like as even
something left after drying. Cons composition kept secret + explicitly stated
that for electrical contacts. I doubt immediately after flushing it is clear that will
work. What about the long term? You never know what there are mixed suddenly
destroy the track in time?
As a result, I decided to wash in alcohol, then spray to lubricate electrical
contacts Liqui Moly, like this:
Dipping patients entirely in the spirit, we give otkisnut 10 minutes, pull out and
turn back and forth several times. Then back to the alcohol and repeat the
procedure 2-3 times.
After bullying potentiometers pull out and give to dry at least 30 minutes.
To grease the insides, I carefully to hook sharp blade edge of the white "goals"
and a little grease to buzoval:
Well, a little scrolled.
At the end of treatment and preventive procedures cling again ohmmeter to the
legs and measure our resistance when turning axis. If changes smoothly, without
jumps, then all is well.
For the prevention of occupational diseases gears recommend to update them
lubrication. I used Tsiatim-201 it was good chemical properties and
temperature range, the main drawback hygroscopicity. However, given that

the lubricant used in the salon, and even in a closed case I do not consider
this a problem.
When you install the potentiometers, make sure that the arrow on the rotary
ring are not in a semicircle from the terminal . The arrow must point in the
direction of the worm gear. With snap-housing, I think the problems no one
there))
I would also add that I cheated a little in the assembly, putting potentiometers
had problem more accessible for removal of drives.
7. Replace
Unfortunately, potentiometers separately I have never found (and engines).
A module assembly costs now <censored> 7500 rub.
Take a hand or a showdown things (considering that this is a characteristic sore),
not the best option. Although, I took one myself so before you get into the
torpedo, imagine how it works and how is repaired. Feel a word.
Everything looks very sad, but then come to the aid of the Chinese!))
Not so long ago they began the production of all sorts of different called
"Volkswagen OEM". Our pereprodazhniki immediately began baryzhit, stating
that these are the same parts less marketing. In fact it is not.
Here here I ordered a Chinese drive for something around 700 rubles (the old
rate).
See for yourself, on top of the original:
As you can see, a piece of iron is different from the original, even though the
same function. Hard to say, for better or worse. Plastic like quality at the level of
the original. Potentiometer direct access, open and clean / lubricate. The
impression is quite positive, especially considering the price!
Reliability of "Chinese" is still open, but there is nothing stopping to check it,
replacing them with the most easily accessible drive (V425).
That's all, everything quiet Climatronic!)
UPD: stumbled recently on very cool
stuff: vwts.ru/cooling/oct/oct_climatronic_rus.pdf
Although not about the trade winds, but very informative.