Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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FORMS COMPARATIVE RESEARCH DENIM

MAIN SWATCHES DENIM

Name students:
1. Kim Schoenmaker
2. Kim Oprins
3. Rick Immerzeel
4. Denise Bregman
5. Nikki Verhoeven
First correction:
After second correction: O/V
Signature lecturer:

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Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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1. THE CROCKMETER COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING EN-ISO 105 X12
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements: DRY 3 WET 2
Test results :
Changing of the colour
Swatch 1

Staining of the colour

Swatch 2

Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Adjacent fabric Adjacent fabric

CO
CO
Dry

4/5

3/4

4/5

Wet

3/4

1/2

Test results :
Changing of the colour
Swatch 3

Staining of the colour

Swatch 4

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Adjacent fabric Adjacent fabric

CO
CO
Dry

3/4

4/5

Wet

3/4

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendation for both staining and changing is for dry 3 and for wet 2.
For swatch 2 and 4, the dry fabric as well as the wet fabric meet the recommendations for
staining and changing. There is no improvement needed.

Which swatches do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better:
For swatch 1 and 3, the fabric does not meet the recommendations for staining of the colour
when wet.
To improve the results, a reactive dye can be used which has very good colour fastness
properties or more binder can be added.

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Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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2. CREASE RECOVERY - WRINKLE RECOVERY TESTER ISO 9867
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements:

Test results :
After test directly

After 24 hours

Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendation for crease recovery is 4. For swatch 2,3 and 4, the fabric meets the
requirements of the recommendation after the test directly as well as after 24 hours. There is no
improvement needed.
Which swatches do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better:
For swatch 1, the fabric does not meet the recommendation after the test directly. The fabric
does meet the recommendation after 24 hours
The improve the result after the test directly you can add elasticity to the fabric what makes it
crease less easily.

Care label Wash symbol

(ONLY: STRIPE underneath, yes/no?)

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Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING AT 40C ISO 105 C06
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements: STAINIG AS WELL AS CHANING 4
Test results :
Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Staining of the
colour at 40C

Staining of the
colour at 40C

Staining of the
colour at 40C

Staining of the
colour at 40C

CA

4/5

4/5

CO

3/4

PA

3/4

4/5

PES

4/5

4/5

PAN

2/3

4/5

WO

4/5

4/5

Changing of the Changing of the

colour at 40C colour at 40C
4/5
4

Changing of the
colour at 40C
5

Changing of the
colour at 40C
5

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendation to washing is for change as well for staining 4. By changing of the
colour all swatches meets the requirement of the recommendation.
Which swatches do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better:
For swatch 1, the fabric does not meet the recommendations for staining when washed with CO
or/and PAN. For swatch 2, The fabric does not meet the recommendations for staining when
washed with PA.
To improve the result of CO, PAN and PA the type of dyestuff or the fiber substrate need to be
changed.

Care label Wash symbol

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Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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4. COLOUR FASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING IS0 105 D01
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements:

Test results :
Changing of the colour

Staining of the colour

Swatch 1

Swatch 2

3/4

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

4/5

3/4

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendations to Dry cleaning is for changing 4. For all swatches, the fabric
meets the requirements of the recommendation.
Which swatches do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better :
-

Care label Dry cleaning symbol

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Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

Quality Control IFM2

5. COLOUR FASTNESS TO HOT PRESSING ISO 105-P01
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements:

Test results:
swatch 1
Changing of the
colour at
150C
Changing of the
colour at 110C
or 200C*
Staining of the
colour at 150C
Staining of the
colour at 110C
or 200C*
Iron symbole

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

4/5

4/5

4/5

PES
4/5

CO
4/5

PES
4/5

CO
4/5

PES
5

CO
4/5

PES
5

CO
5

1/2

3/4

3/4

4/5

4/5

*check off the right temperature

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendation to ironing is for both staining and change 4. By changing of the
colour for all swatches, meets the requirement of the recommendation to 200 degrees .
Which swatches do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better:
The fabrics does not meet the recommendation when hot pressed together with CO or PES at
200 degrees. To improve the results the type of dyestuff or the fibre substrate need to be
changed.

Care label Ironing symbol

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Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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6. DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LAUNDRING/DRYING ISO 5077/6330
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements:

- 2,0%

Test results :
Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Warp (Wa) Weft (We)

Wa 1 Wa2 We 1 We 2 Wa 1 Wa 2 We 1 We 2

Shrinkage in %

Total shrikage in %

0,3%

0,3

0,3

1,3

1,3

1,3%

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

Warp (Wa) Weft (We)

Wa 1 Wa2 We 1 We 2 Wa 1 Wa 2 We 1 We 2

Shrinkage in %

0,4

Total shrikage in %

0,396%

0,4

4,2

4,2

1,9

1,9

6,02%

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendation to Washing/ drying is -2,0%. For the swatch 1,2 and 3, the fabric
meets the requirements of the recommendations. There is no improvement needed.
Which swatch do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better:
For swatch 4, to improve the results, especially the result of the warp yarn, the fabric needs to
be processed in a so-called compactor, which forces the fabric to shrink in the length direction
by compressive forces.
Tumble dry test advice (applicable or not: Yes or NO)
Swatch 1:
YES
Swatch 3:
YES
Swatch 2:

YES

Swatch 4:

NB: Fill in the symbol in the complete care label!

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NO

Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

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7. ABRASION RESISTANCE BY MARTINDALE EN-ISO 12947-2
Scope of the test:
Your minimum requirements:

3 (rubbing & crockmeter (dry))

Test results :
Changing of the colour
Turns

Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

1000

3/4

2000

3/4

4/5

3000

4/5

4000

4/5

3/4

5000

3/4

6000

2/3

2/3

7000

Visible changes of the surface

Turns

Swatch 1

Swatch 2

Swatch 3

Swatch 4

1000

A bit hairy

Hairy

2000

Less hairy

A bit hairy

A bit hairy

A bit hairy

3000

A bit hairy

A bit hairy

4000

hairy

A bit hairy

5000

Smooth at the
edges
-

A bit hairy

6000

Becomes smooth

Becomes smooth

A bit hairy

7000

A bit hairy

Hairy -smooth
at the edges
Hairy- smooth
at the edges
Hairy- smooth
at the edges
Hairy- smooth
at the edges

Conclusion:
Which swatches meet the requirements:
The TGC recommendation to abrasion resistance is 3 for colour changing. They assume 20000
revs when 9kpa is used. For swatch 3 meet the requirement of the recommendation.
Which swatches do not meet the requirements and what are the possibilities to make the
results better:
We expect that fabric 1,2 and fabric 4 will already been broken before the 20000 revs are
reached. The fabric does not meet the recommendation. To improve the results the yarn can be
rotated tighter so the fibers will release the fabric less easily. The fabric does not meet the
recommendation of colour changing. To improve the results, a reactive dye can be used which
has very good colourfastness properties or more binder can be added.

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Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

Quality Control IFM2

COMPLETE CARE LABEL:
-GIVE THE COMPLETE CARELABEL OF YOUR SWATCHES (in the correct sequence!)
AND
-GIVE AN EXPLANTATION OF ALL THESE SYMBOLS PER SWATCH:
Swatch 1:

Swatch 2:

Swatch 3:

Swatch 4:

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Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

Quality Control IFM2

EXPLANTATIONS SYMBOLS:
Normal process. 40C coloured wash. Washing cycle e.g. for dark coloured articles
made of cotton, polyester, mixed fabrics etc.
Tumble drying possible lower temperature ( 60C )
Mild drying processes. Caution is appropriate when tumble drying. Select mild process
with reduced thermal action (temperature, duration of treatment).
Do not tumble dry. Articles unsuitable for tumble drying.

Drip line drying

Line drying

Hot Iron. Iron at maximum sole plate temperature of 200C. Corresponding to the
"cotton/linen" setting: iron whilst damp: treat and if necessary moisten; shiny or
pressure-sensitive pieces should be ironed with press cloth or ironed inside out. A
steam iron may be used.

Professional dry-cleaning in: perchloroethylene, hydrocarbons (heavy benzines). Mild

cleaning process with stringent limitation of added humidity and/or mechanical action
and/or temperature. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may be used with
some restrictions. A trial on a concealed part of the article is advisable beforehand.
Professional dry-cleaning in: perchloroethylene, hydrocarbons (heavy benzines).
Normal cleaning process with no restrictions. Commercial stain removers on a solvent
base may be used with some restrictions. A trial on a concealed part of the article is
advisable beforehand.

Quality Control IFM2

Hogeschool van Amsterdam

Amsterdam fashion Instituut AMFI

Quality Control IFM2

FINAL CONCLUSION
Give a ranking of the most suitable denim for your jeans. Explain why.
Swatch 3 is the most suitable denim because, you can always use the normal processes during
washing/drying/ironing and dry cleaning. You can only bleach this textile.
Swatch 2 and 4 are equivalent. You can use the normal process for washing, ironing and line
drying for these two denims. Swatch 1 has the most decrease quality
Do you want to buy this material for your garment jeans, yes or no?
Yes, swatch 3
Explain your answer:
Because you can use the normal process for washing/drying/ironing and dry cleaning.
Which after-treatment you always want to have the garment for this project?
Explain the effects and the way it works for all your after-treatments:
Explain your answer:
Swatch 3, doesn't need any treatment to improve the results.
For swatch 1,2 and 4, there are no after-treatments applicable. To improve the results of the
fabrics you need to change the treatments of the fabric during the production of the denim.
During the production, the fabrics need to be
Swatch 1, to the improve of rubbing reactive dye can be used which has very goods
colorfastness properties or more binder can be edit. Also you can improve the results of crease
recovery by adding more elasticity to the fabric what makes it crease less easily.
To improve the results of colorfastness to hot pressing, the type of dye stuff or the fiber substrate
need to be changed.

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