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    Woodsmith Magazine - 148

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    Woodsmith - 148

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    Woodsmith Magazine - 148

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    ee SHOP SECRETS REVEALED — ANTIQUE PAINT FINISH! Woodsmith No. 148 August, 2003 @ aor Tenys smn AAWDUST Assistant Editors Ted Raife Phil Huber ActDivector Todd Lambirth P : ae uurshopisalwaysabusyplace.For In alldtion t0 every imaginable Seer Doe eee O: issue we have a NineDrawer type of woodworking tool and equip- resser, s Computer Cabinet, a Rail ment, the store is also carrying a ee Dress puter Cabinet, « Rail ment, the store is also carrying full and Stile Mirror, a Country Pine line of Rockler hardware. Plus, Cabinet, and a new router jig. That’s there's a Benjamin Moore paint quite afew woodworking projects. _store, gartening accessories, and a Graphic Intern Nathan Koberison canarive nesoumces : Se bookstore with thousands of tiles — outa Dice ed Reset soe ai ‘Mankel, Kent Welsh, Ryan Mimick, Chris Puch * Shep New Store all under one roof. Sri: Se Cts, See Jsan» Se Ponape But Ialoly weve had moro going on But my favorit patie the shops than building projects for the maga- Setup inside the store are three full- ‘SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS Can. VoD ths « fet Der Da it © Zine. We've also been designing and size shops — a basement shop, a ‘Sr ral is Goa » Ser ior Cre building fixtures and cabinets for a garage shop, and a freestanding Becceee yrtirieg lins= Gshie Bote sey Woodgth to co eae ‘The first Woodsmeth Store opened ferent ‘ool arrangements and storage crea Des Vctooe 11007 oul fr Wa toot la your shop ethene “Woe ges Pmtin a ah Wa fone the past sixteen years its been one of The store is already open for busi ‘as i Mong atm Fa my favorite places to shop. It was ness seven days aweek, and there’s a TOROLKR GEES filled with everything a woodworker Grand Opening celebration sched- Vref Finance ry Be Seve * Contr Raia K. could want. Orso thought. ‘led for Sept. 19th - 21st Ifyoutre in chien Se Avr lr Teper pete ary his new store is huge. Its over the area be sure to stop in and ches ee ee eee This new store is huge. Its over thearea be sure w stop in and check @ asm he oh Dae irs thee times the sizeof the old store, it ut, [think you'll be glad you did nti Cis Sk FCNage Td ber it eS eee with over 20,000 sauare feet of floor For more information and « map of Aste S87 Dir: eee ee Mes space, including a 4,000 square foot how to get there, visitthe website: Sr ee oe on hardwood lumber and plywood area. www. Woodsmithstore.com tars Sue M, Now « Hab Deer Kara Bleing © fear ‘Dendopont Di: Ml Sigal ‘aon Dave: Lon Weber WOODSMITH STORE ‘operations Diecor boar» et Som i: nen © Mretinge Sipe: Nancy Johnson » Ber Lind ems «Ada “roca, SSbonete Pein ape. James olos =e Morage Thm Tce Brin MeCal = Sate St Weasel tone Lary “Moss, Mirkin, Gregory Kare, Jen Ware, Stee Ages, Dave Prapming, See Dc, ea Ssons © Oe Ne Vet Ears Ste Reg abe ne Rha Cann 280 Gro BS Ce ecmcugece. Woodsmith Readers’ Gallery Sear tagl ons tie Ont coe om inert st Siero VS ota) ‘Visit other Woodsntith subscribers’ workshops, and see Eesha Can adit os hg toto photos ofthe projets they've bul. sal online athe esi Sn delet ort, De A new Readers’ Gallery on ihe Woedsnnith we site Seapets ata Tout tet eee deel rencontre ‘We want you to be part ofthe Readers! WARS REEREAR an con Gallery!To submit photos ofyour favorite Pinta USA Woosh projects or vies of yourshen, {allow the insrucions youl nd at the Reader's Gallery. AvGust Home 2 ‘Woodsmith No. 148 Features Adjustable Dado Jig Finally, an eney-o-bul jig that ters your hand: Gnade cera tol fr rz cakes, Country Pine Cupboard . Build ths simple country project with thvee table saw joinery vch- niques that you can use again and again. Antique Milk Paint Finish ................ 14 Tura project from new to antique in a short weekend. Our shop secrets show you how to give a cabinet “instant age.” Classic Computer Cabinet 2216) Keep your hi-tech equipment contained in this ewo-part home office hideaway with its wrap-around doors and tons of storage Upper Cabinet 223 Top off the eabi faheuer a gare far eee al fine details. And ies big enough to “hide” a 21-inch monitor. Bonus Project: CD Case Reclaim your desk space. This simple case keeps CDs in their place. Nine-Drawer Dresser ..... 26 This great-looking dresser features basic plywood construction and contrasting colors, Plus there's an optional base and top Arched Rail and Stile Mirror ............ 34 Coupe cabs e ‘You can build this elegant five-board mirror in a weekend. Nine-Drawer Dresser pox» 25 Departments Tips & Techniques Shop Notes. Sources . No. M8 FRoM FELLOW AN verononirontaast) Tips & TECHNIQUES Drill Press Crank Installing threadedinsert can be a challenge. You ‘need o apply enough pres- sure to get the threads to grab, while at the same time keeping the insert from going in crooked. ‘A drill press is the per- fect solution, With an insert on a cutoff bolt mounted in the chuck, T turn the quill by hand to ‘screw the insertin place. But sometimes it can be ical wo get agoud grip cn the chuck. So Teame up with this simple crank, as you can see in the Photo at right. It fits around the top pulley in the bead ofthe dill press and has a opinner knob ‘This crank gives me a lot more leverage for threading the insert into the workpiece. In fat, the insert goes in smoothly with virtually no effort. The crank is made from a piece of 8" ply- wood. A studded knob and a lock aut make an easytorhold handle. And relief cut between the handle arm and the ring Jets you tighten the ring on the pulley with a bolt and star knob, a8 shown in the drawing. To.use it, start by mov- ing the helt down off the top front pulley and fasten the crank hanéle to the top pulley wheel. Now position the workpiece and clamp it tothe table under the insert. Now slowly turn the crank clockwise. At the same time, lower the insert and itwill begin tapping itself into the workpiece ‘Aaron Kingeranier Lincs, Hos rank Stade v ‘inob wore: size rand fo fit Bench Vise Clamping Table I build a lot of smail pro ects for gifts. And one ofthe ‘challenges of these types of projects is gluing and ‘clamping parts this size. To solve this problem, I made a T-shaped, auxil lary table that clamps in the vise oa my work bench, as shown in the photo atleft “There's really not much to it. It built from two squares of %4" plywood. ‘The table top has a cen- tered, 34"deep dado cut in the bottom side to hold the support piece, as in the drawing at left. Best of all, the table brings the workpieces up to a more comfortable height. And ite shape makes it easy to clamp assemblies right to the top of the table, Wale Boyt Yakima, Washingon No. 48 Drill Press Sanding Lathe Trecenily biltacotfeeiable thatthey wore only‘rough My. solution for thio @ 2% shee dont own a sanded.” What I needed problem wes touse a cou lathe, lonered four pre wasaquickway tosandthe ple of nails and turn my turnedlegs by mall When legs smooth without creat- drill press into a “sanding they arrived, Idiscovered ing at spots. lathe,” as in the photo at right. Thammered a 16d sail into each end of the Jeg and cut off the heads, asyou can se inthe draw. ings at left. Next, I mount ed the top mail in the chuck ofthe aril press. ‘The bottom nails held in a hole I drilled in the With the dril press set at middle of a piece of ply- its lowest speed, I sanded ‘wood clamped to the drill each leg smooth in just a press table.Then the table few minutes, tog — can be raised s0 the bot: Rod Walfagon tom nailis inside the hole. sting, Washington Shop-Made Flush Trim Jig ‘When itcomesto trimming difficult Ifthe router tips, it the photo at right, you can meamine edging fush on can gouge the shel. see how I did this, shevesand counters,lusu- In order to overcome I made an auxiliary allyreach forny routerand this difficulty, Ifound a hase for my router that a flush trim bit. The only way of trimming the edg- raises the router up just problemisthatkeepingthe ing flush while keeping above the oversize edg- @ roitersteaty on thenar therouteronthe wpottie ing, The base is made row edge ofa shelfcan be shelf Ifyou take alook at from a piece of 1’ hard- hoard with a Lghai tout for a straight , a8 in the drawing. Two countersunk holes fet you attach the base to the router. cleanest cul, move the ‘There's not much router from right to let. to using the jiz. Just Note Since all the edging set the router on the _isremoved, there ist any lange CROSS SECTION shelfand lowerthebit danger ot grabbing. unt itsjust above the Kore Sith surface. And for the — Humungon Beach, Calfora QUICK TIPS SLAY KEEP FINISH FRESH WAX CAULK SEAL ‘Thescrevoncapsofmy I've tried everything to | If you have an original shop tip Please include your full cil Gish cans always keep my tubesofcaulk | or woodworking technique, we name, address, and daytime seem to “freeze up’ irom drying out and | would Tike to hear from you telephone number so that we between uses. To keep nothingseemedto work. | and consider publishing your can contact you in case we the caps easy to open, Nothing that is, untill | tip in one or more of our print have eny questions. applied alayer of petro. tried dripping candle | orelectronic publications. If you would like, you can Jeumjelytothethreads wax into the tip of the Just write down your tip FAK itto us at 5152825741 or @ ofthe cen before reseal tube. Now it stays soft and mail it to us: Woodsmith, send us an email message at: ing the cap. and ready to use Tips and Techniques, 2200 woodsmith@voodsmith.com. Rabb Borner Pad Woods Grand Avenue, Des Moines, We will my you up to $200 if ‘Amherst, Ohio Corvals, Oregon Towa 50812. we decide to publish your tip. a No. 148 Woodsmith 5 Jics & FIXTURES |. seen alot of T-square edge guides designed to make routing dadoes in large panels easier. The problem with most of them is that they aren't eesily adjustable for odd- thickness material, And even when they are, there’s no way to quickly duplicate the dado in another panel This jig allows you to rout a dado square to the edge and sized to fit even oddthickness material (like NOTE: Allcariage bots are 2 he wh washers dana Wing nut - plywood). Anda builtin stop makes \duplicating the position of the dado in another panel a breeze (Fig. 1a). NOTES ON ASSEMBLY. Building the jig is pretty straightforward but there area couple points worth mention- ing. First the guides are made to always be used with one size of router bit ( used a 96" straight bit) and the same router base, Mark an index point on the router base and then always run this spot along the guide fence. When you use the selected bit to trim the guide plates, as shown in Fig. 1b, the cut wil fall rightat the edge ofthe guide plate. ‘And second, when you assemble the Tsquares, it’s important to make them accurate, I initially screwed them together and checked for square. ‘Then 1 repeated the process, adding glue. ‘Top view Fixed, vith aasher cy INOTE: Guide plates are 1A" et wopesigucme wan | ek: f |end hoc wxinrmn — | /cxossriece Swoodserens 9) / (215 x 515") S ; | i ro. Woodsmith Ore ret 1c for square =) ‘mark index point fonrouter seal te trim = Tim guide plat vith some sie Dused for dadoes Setting up the Jig Once you completed Lullding the dao jg, setting up for a cut goes quickly. Start by laying out the loca- tion of one side of all the dadoes on your panel. Note: Don’t worry about ‘the other sie, Tl getto that ater. S26 TH DAO, Next, lay the fg on the panel and temporarily clamp it in place with the slotted crosspiece tight against the edge of the work- piece. Set a scrap spacer against the fixed Tsquare edge of the guide plate, making sure the spacer is the Same thickness as the material you're “sizing” the dado for (Fig. 2). Then slide the adjustable guide cover to pinch it ight. Tighten the guide at one end and repeat this process at the other end of the panel, tightening down the connect- ing cleat. That's all there is to it. LOCATING THE DADO. Now you can ‘see why | didn’t bother laying out both sides of the dado. Since the jig has already been sized for the exact width you need (and locked in place), locating the dado is simply a ‘matter of lining up the fixed guide plate on your layout mark (Fig. 3a). If you've laid out your dadoes accurately, you can set the jig right ‘on the money’ Make sre the cross: piece is snug to the edge of the panel and clampthejigdown Fig, 3) SETTING THE STOP. Duplicating the dado in another pane! is a soap thank tothe builtin stop. The sop arm can easily be flipped end-for- end (or even removed) ifyouneed a lite bit longer reach (Fig. 12). Scrap bt materia -thatwil en dado adjustable Fsquare {o>plnehserop between (guide plates DEPTH OF CUT. The fnal step isto set And since your cutting a dado wider the depth ofthe bitas shown in Fig, than your bit, you have to make two 4a, Ifyour dadoes are 1/s' or less, passes — up along one guide and you cansetthe router to cut the fullback along the other (Figs. 4and 5). depth in one pass. Otherwise, its Andalwaysrun the edge with the best to make a series of shallow, index point (as shown in Fig. 1b) overlapring passes. against the fences. Since most base plates aren't periectiy centered on (MAKING THE CUT the bit this will assure thatthe cutis You've done the hard part, There's always on the same line. After you not much tomakingthecut,butthere make the first pess, just rotate the are a few simple “rules” to follow. router 180°for the return pass, First you can startthe eutfromoither Finally, maintain good downward end, butyou're always going tomove pressure on the router for a consis- the router fromleft to right tent depth of cut and a flat botom. ‘and make return poss | nits ndec pont ‘Woodsmith Rotate router 160° | against opposite Ferce | ra ™monw> PINE CUPBOARD Three essential table saw jomery techniques combine to make one great-looking project. s T seat thing about woodworking is being able to learn a new technique or hone your skill. That's why Hike this pine cupboard. It’s made with three joints that are strong, versatile and easy to make. Best of all, you only need a table saw to eat all theee, And you'll ind ‘yourself coming back to these joints again and ‘again in other woodworking projects. STUE TENON AND GROOVE. The first technique is ‘one of the most common woodworking joints, the stub tenon and groove. ts great for frame and panel assemblies like the cabinet sides. MITER AND SPLINE. The base sides of the pine cupboard meet at an angle to hide the end grain. But for this joint to be strong enough for the Job, it needs a little reinforcement. So a spline is glued into a dado cut the end of each part. BRIDLE JOINT For the door, Iused a bridle joiat. It’s also called an open. mortise and tenon because the mor tises and tenons are completely exposed. Ths is a very rigid joint. DESIGN OPTIONS. Another great fea: ture ofthis country-style cupboard is that is really two projects in one. Besides the cupboard, you could build justthe phone pedestal to keep a telephone and phone book org: countertep, as you can see on page 13. ‘This project makes a great candidate fortry- ing an antique, milk pain! technique, Check out the article on page 14 and see for yourself ed on MATERIALS & SUPPLIES Side Top Rails (2) X2-9%e 1 Shelves (2) Wx10%-10% Side Bottom Rails 2) %4x2V%s- Ole 3 Bese Sides(2] %4x514 12% Side Stiles (4) YUx2- 23, K Rese FrontiRack 0) 34x S)A- 12 Back Top Rall (1) 4kx2- Ye L Door Stiles (2) x2 -29%4 Back Battom Rail (1) %x2Ys- 772 M Door Rails (2) YUx2- 10% Back Stles(2) %4x2%4-28% N Stop %4x %h- 70 tn. in. Bead Board 25in.ft. O Pedestal Sides (2) ¥4x 5%- 12% TopiBottom (2) 4x 13-13 P Pedestal Back(1) 44x 514-11 Woodsmith Q Fedestal Top (1) %x8-13 @) Yer Hardboard Splines W4" x 5149) (20) #8 « 114" Fh Woodscrews @) 14" Shelf Supports (ps) No-mortse Hinges w/Screws: (1) Magentic Door Catch w/Screws (1) Boor Knob w/Serews No.8 NOTE: beaded pane| made ‘rom Individual premade Beaded board Building a Stub Tenon and Groove Frame ‘The side and back panels ofthe case are joined with “stub tenon and ‘groove’ joiats, as in Fig. 1. Unlike mortise and tenon joinery, the short (stub) tenons fit in the same ‘erooves used to hold the panels, This means they're easy to cutsince there's no extra mortising step. to9vts. When making a stub tenon and groove joint, I usually cut the grooves in the stiles fist. nore, ‘Then Lean adjstits widh 2m panein frame to hold the panel, which in ten ies this case is 4" bead board equbteas panel, see margin photo. ‘And while its possible NOTE set up a dado blade to cut rsa es the groove ina single pass, its ditfcutt to get it per fecily centered. To solve wore: this problem, I make two 0 not lie passes with a regular blade (ig 2). panel npiace Flipping the piece end for end between passes centers the groove. You'l need to cut grooves in all six side (A, B) and back (D, B) rails, as well as the six side (C) and back aérrou () stiles, Start with the groove ae roughly centered and nudge the rip fence out until the parel fis saug in the groove (see margin photo) blade is partially exposed. This way, too tight, youll need to raise the STUB TENONS, With the grooves cut, you can cut the tenons tolength ina blade just a bit (remember that the next step is to cut the stub single poss, as in Fig. 3 But don't youll be malking two passes). tenonson the endsof the rails Once cut the tenons just yet—you'llneed ASSEMBLY. How you glue up the A Size de grooves again, you cut the stub tenons to fit toadjust theheightofthe badefirst, stud tenon and groove frame for the full :hck- thegrooves you've cutin the stiles. You're looking for a snug fit, so depends on what the panel is made ness of the beat To make it easier to cut the start out with it set lower than you of. For solid-wood panels, like the board panel, tenons, I installed a dado blade in need, Here again, youll automat bead board (G), I apply glue only to the table saw and attached an auxil- cally center the tenon by flipping the the frame joints so the panels can iary fence on the rip fence. Then piece over and making another expand and contract. For plywood, position the fence so that the dado pass. Now, check the fit Ifthe fit is it’s okay to glue the panel in place. Grea cat fothidness ort cea Leki! ay 0 view fe cavae L rhe TY) ce Wore: speek ‘on thickness oF tenors No. M48 Wocdsmith 9 eps shelf-pin ror oa Fs NOTE: Do not plug holes ‘fyou plan on bulling et Foon pedal 7 (Gee page 13) Side ee assembly sellin ae! § Only front edges of setves © nosed NOTE: Altscrens gree tie Phwcodsrews NOTE: All oteces are ethic stock Splines ‘are i harebeard NOTE: Seo box onpage 7 for opby on miter snd Spine Assembling the Case With the framesassembled, the case _ these holes so they end up parallel Now the case can be glued soestogether prety easily The side and the shelves sit straight. together ButT needed a way tokeep and back frames are joined to make As | mentioned, the case side it square. To get around this prob- U-shaped case. A solidwood tap frames are attached to the back lem, cut a pair of plywood spacers and bottom are added and then the frame using a simple tongue and _ that will prevent the case sides from case is attached to a mitered base. groove joint. To make it, start by _ bowing in while the glue dries. Adjustable shelves complete thecase. cutting a groove along the inside ATTACH TOP AND BOTTOM. The fo) and 400 se Ses NOBACT. Before cut back edge of each side frame, a8 bottom ¢H) of te case can now be ting the tongues and grooves to join shown in Figs. 5 and 5a. Then you glued up from %4"thick pine. After the frames, drill the shelf pin holes can cut matching tongues on the _ the panels are dry, you can rout a in the side frame stiles, as shown in _ back frame to fit in the grooves, as _bullnose on the front and sides (but Fig. 4. You'll want to carefully lay out _ illustrated in Figs. 6 and 6a. not the back). To do this, install a Se /, a Be 4 @ En Z ee oe 10 ‘Woodsmith No. 148 4p round-over bit and raise it 3" abore the router table. Then make a pass on each edge, as in Fig. 4. ‘The top and bottom are attached with screws. But because they're solid-wood panels, you'll need to account for seasonal movement. To do this, simply drill oversize shank holes in the panels, as in Figs. 4a and 4d. Note: If you dont plan on. ‘making the phone pedestal, you can. plug the serew holes in the top. GIVE UP SHEIVS. Before moving on to the base, glue up two shelees for the inside ofthe case. But unlike the top and bottom, anly the front edge gets the bullnose detail. SHAPE THE BASE. The base of the stand is made up oftwo sides () and afront and back (B). Each part has a cutout to form four legs. I found it easier to cut the miter and spline joinery belore cutting the leg pro- file. (ou can read more about that Inthe box below.) Now before assembling the base, di youneed to cut the leg profile. I did this on the band saw, asin Fig. 7 Just be sure tocutto the waste side A basic miter joint is perfect for hiding, ‘end grain, but this makes for aweak gine ‘pint. To strengthen it, splinesare glued into saw kets cut in the miters, [TER To SIZE. First cut the base pieces to rough size. An auxiliery fence and smooth out the curve with a 1 sander. I used some sandpa per toclean up the corner. Like the top and bottom, the base attaches with screws, Istarted by RRR Ca ee) altached to the miter gauge helps sup- port the parts. Next, cut a 45° miter on ‘one end. [used a stop block on the miter gauge fence to cat the sides to the same Sve, as in Figs. Land 1a. (Then resetitto cat the cut the front and back.) CCUTTHESPLIE KERF. With the parts cutto, size, you can then eut the kerf for the spline. To do this, leave the blade tilted at 45° and set the fence, as in Fig. 2 ‘Then using the miter gauge to sup- port the piece, cut a kerf in each end. Forthe strongest joint, i's bestto cut the drilling shank holes through the ‘cutout in the base (Figs. 8 and 81), ‘Then assemble the base with glue and splines. Finally, fi the case over and screw the base in place. kkerf closer to the inside face ofthe joint. ‘When the kerf is higher, it might cut through the outside face MAKING SPLINES. The material L use for ‘the splines depends on i the spline will be visible or not. fits, leut the splines from the same material as the stock used in the project. However, ifthe joint isnt going to be seen, I prefer to use hardboard. When citting the splines make sure to cut them slightly narrower (4) than the keris. This way the joint will lose up tightly. No.148 Wocdsmith, mates eee glass panels, Hiketo use abril joint Thebeneitofthisjoirtisthattslarge | 39?’ ale surfaces make it strong oy enough to support the weight of the pss. Note: For aproectibe this, Tusedoublestrength ees. CUTTING THE MoRTs. Start by cutting the door stiles (L,) and rails (M) to size from 3j!"thick stock. Then mortises are cut all the way through the stile ends, ‘with a matching full-width tenon ‘on the end ofeach rail (Pig. 9). Since the stiles are stood on end when cutting the mortise, I needed a way to support the pieces. So I made a simple jig to trun alongside my rip fence. The bridle jig has a %A"shick hard- ‘wood boily to keep the work- piece from tipping, and a hardboard arm to hold it ‘against the fence, as in Fig. 10. ‘The saw blade height matches the width of the rail (2), and 1 used the rip fence to center the 5 workpiece, making two passes to RAL cat the mortise (Fig. 11). CUT MATCHING TENORS. Now the fence to my miter gauge to prevent held router and a rabbetting bit tenons can be cut on the rails. chipout. Cut the shoulders first and work fine for this (Fig. 13). Then Justlike the stub tenonscutear- clean up the waste by making sev- clean up the corners witha chisel, lier, Tused a dado blade, But this eral passes, as shown in Fig. 12. To keep the gless in place, I made time the tenons are sized to match ROUTING RABBET FOR GLASS. Once the some quarter-round stop (WV). The 4 Bridle oints create the width of the stiles, asin Fig. 12a. frame is giued together, you can door mounts to the case with "no- raid frames perfect Since the tenons are visible on rout a rabbet on the inside face of mortise” hinges. Finally, Tattached Jor cabinet doors. two sides, Tattached an auxiliary the door for the glass panel. Ahand- knob and a magnetic catch, a. ‘NOTE: Sneok > i ‘enoss SECTION on thickress of tenon \ 2 ‘Woodsmith 148 Building the Phone Pedestal ‘Topping ofthe cupboard isa phone pedestal It’sreally just ahalésize shelf supported cbove the case. There's a ceutout in the back ofthe pedestal that, Jets you run cords for an answering machine out the back side. SHAPING THE SES. Two sides and a back form an enclosure that support the top. The sides (O) have a curved detail cut in them, as in Fig. 14b, In ‘order for the pieces to be identical, 1 taped the parts together to cut them ‘on the hand saw. Just be sure to stay to the waste side so that you can sand the curve smooth on adrum First, tongue is cuton each end to sander. Then a dado is cut near the _fitthe dadoes in the sides. Next, cut stock. It gets the back edge to hold the back, as a 1!4"radius opening at the botiom treaimentas the case shown in Fig. Ia. for the cords. ‘The sides and back top. Center the top on the pedestal FITTING THE BACK. The back (P) of can then be glued together using 2 base, mark and dll countersunk the pedestal is made in two steps. spacerin front tokeep itsquare. _ shank holes, and fasten it in place with screws. And to cover the screw Pe eee heads, !added plugs that I cut from the same pine stock using @ plug cutter in the drill press ‘CONNECTING IT T0 THE cASt. Finally, ‘While making the phone stand, 1 ‘figured the phone pedestal would the phone pedestal is attached to beagreat standalone project, ike the top of the case with dowels to you see in the photo atright. I's keep it from sliding around. The ‘great organizer forall the things, Irard part here was coming up with you'd keep near the phone: phone way to accurately locate the dowel ‘book, pen, paper, al calendar. holes in the pedestal sides. ‘To make one, all you have to To solve this problem, I placed do isbuild the pedestal and a top dowel centers in the counterbored from the case. And instead of & Build tre phone pedestal by Joining it with dowels, 1 just itself, ond you can keep aiele- serewed the base to the pedestal _phene, phone book, and note fromthebottomand adedsome pad clese at hand just chou small rubber feet, canyuohere in ce house. holes inthe top. I then centered the pedestal with the top and pressed the pedestal into the dowel centers, Once the dowel centers are removed, you can drillthe holes and. slue dowels into the pedestal CUTTING DIAGRAM a eee BE OS | Oe 2 finish, To find ove x Cire S15) 96 len Pie (484. how, check ot he < ae caticle on page 14 "6" (4"« 57) 96" Clear Pie 4B.) i (dy ees | a x6" (ix 51) 96" Clas Poe (404 e) di aa eerea ae L EW Ti 6" (Whe IF) - 72° Clear Pine (380. Fe) | aati fee | a Ty ‘AISO NEEDED: 25 linear feot of bead boord and is" hardboard for splines No, 148 ‘Woodsmith 8 A An antigne mille paint finish can rake a new project look lite it was discovered in Grandma's atic. FINISHING sUsesN (els SHOP SECRETS REVEALED ANTIQUE MILK PAINT FINISH T pine cupboard on page 8 looks reat with asimple,shellacfinish, But I also wanted fo try arealy di ferent ype of fnish here. This project the perfect candidate for that slightly worn, antique paint effect yout seein the photo atleft. t's smal (nice for painting), it has a variety of sar- faces and edges, and it just has that old “Yarmhouse” feel tit. This finish certainly iat fer every proect,buton this piece it shines ‘THE ANTIQUE LOOK. Old, painted far- niture usualy didn't get painted just once. And often the original finish wasn't even paint. It might have started out with a stain and clear in- andthen, when it began tolookea little shabby, it got a coat of bright- colored paint And through the years it gota few more coats of paint of one or more colors. Add some wear aud tear to the mix and you tend up withthe finish shown at left. You'l see a litle bare wood here and there and in other spats you get a layered look, with one color show- ing under the other. (AS the paint ages, it shrinks and startsto crackle and maybe chip off) MILK PAINT To givemy aged-paint finish a really authentic look, I decided to use the real McCoy — old-fashioned mille paint. (You can use flat latex paint and achieve a similar look) Before the days of prepackaged paints, milk paint was often the only paint available locally. It was basi- cally just a mixture of milk, lime, and pigments and could be mixed up whenever it was needed. Why Woodsnith milk? Well, the casein in the milk acts as a binder in the paint. And if you've ever tried to strip milk p ‘you know how well works, ‘Milk paint mey be centuries old, but it stil offers some nice advan tages. First it's fast drving — you ccan recoat in an hour orless. This is because it’s water-based —it comes in a powder form and is mixed on the spot. It’s also non-toxic and has litle odor. And finally, it’s available in a variety of bright colors. (See page 35 for milk paint sources.) THE PROCESS ‘The techniques I used are really pretty basic, but the result is great ‘When you'reall done here, you want people toadmirethe project andthen ask whose atic it was hauled out of TRY A TEST. For me, the first step vas a litle experimenting, I wanted to know what Pd end up with before 1 jumped into it. So it certainly wouldn't hurt to work up a sample before you tackle the real project. FIRST ADD SOME WEAR. An old, well used pieve of furniture has lost its crisp, new appearance long ago. So first you want to add a little bit of wear and teat I didn't go overboard = no chains and hammers, just some coarse sandpaper. ‘Start by softening all the sharp ‘edges and corners and then add some extra wearin spots. Just think about where the piece would nor mally show its age. The edges ofthe oor and the frame around the door are good examples. And the feet ‘would surely show a fair amount of ‘wear. There's no formula for this. No. M48 Just use your imagination and you really can't go wrong. [NOW SEALER AND STAIN. Since mille paint is water based, it will raise the grain of the wood. You can avoid this by starting out with a thin coat of shellac. This also allows you to use a quick-drying, water-based stain without worry. ‘The stain job doesn't need to be neat I just brushed the stein on and didr’t wipe it down. Its only there for another layer of color. A second ‘coat of shellac will keep the stain ‘rom bleeding through the paint. ‘ALITE WAXING, Now that you're building up some “history” you need a way to expose it as you add more layers. Some paraffin wax does the tricks, Just rub a few of the “wear” areas you've identified and the paint won't adhere. The edzesof Sandpaper. The fst step is to adda ite wear and tear Use some coarse sendpeper to knock off the sharp edges and add!some "age" in the right spots Dark Basecoat. After wacing, the fist of two coets of “Soldier blue” mik pint were applied. A cheap foam brush works fine and madea quick job oft. No. 148 the side panels, around the base, the ‘corners ofthe top and maybe a few random epots here and there. The area around the doorknob is sure to show some good wear. Butdon't get carried away. A Bittle ‘wax after the stain layer and a bit more after the milk paint undercoat will create a variety of “wear” BRUSH ON THE PAINT. Now you can add some more “age” with a dark: colored milk paint. Milk paint is easy to use. Simply apply it with a foam brush. And don't worry too ‘mich about the qualty of the paint job. Two “color coats” will easily hide the darksstain After alittle more waxin three coats of white to cover the dark, blue basecoat. At this point, you'll start to notice some crackling (on the surface, The paint might second coat of shellac Woodsmith start to pull loose from the waxed areas, Ifyou want a litle smoother look, you can apply thinner coats with more crying time in between. SAND IT OF. After the final coat of paint is dry, you can begin to reveal the built-up “history.” This is when your “old” piece comes to life. ‘With come mediun-grit sandpa- per, you don't need to rub hard to expose the different layers. ‘Wherever there's a little wax, the paint will come off easily. ‘You can make use ofall the layers and oven take it down to bare wood ina fewspots. But takeit slow at this, stage and step back to judge your progress as you work. ‘And did Imention that since mill paint dries so quickly, allthis can be be completed in e weekend? Not bad for 100 years of age, The Stain, Now, stertlayerng the finishes. A Little Wax. Next, 2 block of parafin wax by brushing on a coat of waterbased stain wil help expose the layers later on. Just rub cover a shelac sealer. Follow the stain witha areas that would normally bo worn and the paint to follow will sand off eas Topcoat. A few more spots of wax over Expose the Layers. For the final step, the blue paintend then the “oyster white” some medium-arit sandpaper wil ely topcoats go on. At this point, youmay start loosen the paint on the waxed areas and t0 see some cracking and peeling reveal the “old” layers hiding undemeath, 15 FEATURE PROJECT CLASSIC hideaway easily holds all your igh-tech comput hardware, and Jeatures some unique hardware of its own. 16 Woodsmith Upper cabinet : ee Construction cba. OVERALL BIMENSIonS: 38%2"W x 2356"D x 55%4"H_ Goch ors iS Ee re sciemesiee ; ao fe ‘up 10 29¢Dy ates —— Dp nthe tod Removable rear bult-in wrist rest ea et at wore ote elms on | ison aston aba Bawiemer _— one Gop behind give you easy oe ee ieee , pete ee ae a oe See - aes a ‘NOTE: For tips on sulna smaed See sts prea Soe aire LOWER CABINET CROSS SECTION VIEW MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A Side (2) YUply.- 2194x 30% N Printer Tray Sedes(2) %4x2%4- 19% AADoor Rails (4) UK 2 NAls B Bottom (1) %4ply.- 21%4x 30% 0 Printer Tay Front(1) 74K 24-21% BB Door Panels (2) 4 py.- 14%ex 18/2 Keyboard Shel (1) %ply.- 19%2x36% P Drawer Bottom (1) % ph. -18%x33% CC Door Molding —Y4xY4- 120 rah D Subtop (1) Yaply.- 21%x 36% Q Drawer Edging (1) ax %e- 33% E Divider (1) 5h ply.- 18/4x 22% R Drawer Sides (2) 454x212 19 + (1 pr) 16" Full-Extension Drawer Slide F Long Door Backer(1) ¥4x2-229 S Drawer Front(1) 34x 3) 36%» (1 pr) 20" Fulléxtension Drawer Side G Short Door Backer(1) _ %x2-12 T Skirt iller(1) %&x3/2-37 » (1) Pano Hinge- 11" x 36" H Edcing %Gx%h-155 (gh. U Bel Filer (1) Ax %- 3} + (2 pr) 270° Aximat Hinges w/Screns 1 Wide Edging %x 17-36 19h. V Skirt Molding Ux Ye-87 19h.» (1) 3%"-dia. Plastic Grommet. 4 Frame stiles (2) Ux3%i- 25% W Belt Molding %X%-B7 19h.» (2) 256" x 10/6" Plastic Verts @ kK Frame tais 2) %x3Nh- 30% X Top (1) Yply.- 22%x 3?» (2) 114"-dia, Bronze Knobs wAcrews L Panel (1) ta ply.- 30%x 20% Y Top Edging 44x4%-87 ron.» (8) Metal Turn buttons w/Screws M Printer Tray Top (1] %ply.-19%x 21% Z Door Stiles (4) Wr2a- 22 No. 148 Woodsmith Building the Lower Cabinet ‘The lower portion of the computer cabinet can stand alone as a small desk keyouseein the photo atvight. What's nice about this cabinet is it features some prety straightforward plyweod construction. Butits what's inside that really matters. Under the top is 2 keyboard drawer with a builtin wrist rest Behind the two doors, the space is divided into compartments to hold a computer and printer. There are also a couple other features to keep your components organized. HIDNG THE MESS. For one, there's a cord chase that runs from the top of the cabinet behind the keyboard shelf and into the lower cabinet ‘This keeps your cords from becom — ing a tangled “rats nest” on the floor Se behind the cabinet, And a remow- able back panel gives you easy ‘acess to the back ofthe printer and ‘computer for plugging and unphuig- ing cords without straining. A Thisjig makes BUILDING THE PLYWOOD CASE. The-cab- routing accurate inet is made mostly of plywood. The dadoes a simple benefit of using plywood is the abik- ob. See page 6 10 ity to have wide, flat surfaces with- male one ‘out gluing up panels. And you dont have to deal with wood movement. began by eutting the sides (A) from 34" plywood. I then cat the joinery on the sides to hold the bot tom, keyboard shelf and a subtop. ‘The bottom and the divider are held by dadoes sized tofit "plywood. To make sure the dadoes ‘matched the plywood exactly, I used a jig and a han¢-held router, as shown in the left margin photo. (To build the jig turn to page 6) The dado that holds the subtop ia routed a single pass with a Sél-dia straight bit Figs. 1 and 1a). Then a rebbetis cut on the back edge of the sides. This will hold the rear frame and removable panel assembly. Next the bottom (B) and keyboard shelf (C) are cutto size and receive a dado to fit a divider. The subtop (D) hhas a tongue cut on each end to fit the dadoes in the sides (Fig. 2). Here again, the subiop and bottom have a rabbet cut along the back edge for the rear panel, asin Fig. 1a ‘The suidtop alco has two holes cut init. Thesmallerhole isfor the cord chase that connects the upper unit, oly ©) ronr view ye Horizontal, ‘dai tbat 20a Tee aut of SIDE secrion ViEW eogings . R ® 9 le mos cabinet case embly © ‘Woodsmith No. M48 to the lower unit. It’s cut with a 3"- dia, hole saw and then sanded to fina size @4'), as shownin Fig. 1b, ‘The lager cutout willbe needed for installing the drawer slides in the keyboard drawer, asin Fig. 3 ‘The next part tocutis the vertical divider (E) forthe case. This panel divides the storage area. At this point, the case can be glued together. Once the case is assem- bled, two dior backers (F, G) arecut from ®A'-thick hardwood and glued to the underside of the keyboard shelf These just back up the overlay doors that are built ater HIDING PtyWoOD'S UGLY EDGE. ‘The only problem with plywood con- struction is dealing with the exposed edges. So I attached hard- wood edging (i, to hide them. ‘The vertical edging is applied first, then the horizontal edging is cuto fit And a wide piece is applied across the keyboard shelf and door backers (Fig. ta). Then the edging ‘ean be trimmed with a router and a flush trim bit, as shown in Fig. 4.1 squared up the corners where the router couldn’ reach witha chisel ASY ACCES REAR FRANE, That takes care of the work on the front ofthe case. To complete the back, you'll need to build a frame to fit the open- fence ee aff A [eu view tnt rover spt ing in the back of the case. This {frame holds a plywood pane! that is ‘easily removed to gain access to the ‘computer equipment, asin Fig 5. ‘The frame stiles () and rails (K) are joined with simple rabbets, as you can see in Fig, 5a. The rabbets are sized to match apiece of A" ply- ‘wood. Once the frame is glued Up commess with ache! a together, it can then be glued into therabbets in the back ofthe case. REMOVABLE PANEL. Next I cut a //" plywood panel (L) to fit inside the rear frame, This panel has four openings — two along the bottom for power cords and two near the top for a pair of preset vents, Metal turn buttons hold the panel in place. 4 Aremovable panel rakes it easy to get tothe buck of the equipment stored inside. Adding the Printer Tray and Keyboard Drawer ‘With the case complete, there are still a.couple things to build for the inside of the cabine: —a sideout printer tray and akeyboard drawer. SUDE OUT PRINTER TRAY. The printer ‘tray is really just a shelf mounted on a pair of fullextension drawer slides. As you can see in Fig. 6, it's just ‘8 plywood top that’s wrapped with a solid ‘wood front and sides. First the tray top (M) iscutto size from*" ply: ‘wood and then the two tray sides (N) and the wo get to he ness of the tray top (Fig. 6). And trated in Fig. 72. priner. For more after the ends of the front are rab-To build the keyboard drawer, on instaling sides etted (Fig. 6a), the ray canthen be start by cutting the plywood drawer sve page 25. glued together. You'll find details on bottom (P) to size. Then edging (Q) ‘mounting theslides on page25. is applied to the front (Fig. 7). The DROP-FRONT KEYBOARD DRAWER. The drawer sides (R) can now be cut and keyboard drawer is similar to the —rabbeted to hold the bottom. But printer tray, but there’s one impor before gluing the sides to the bot- Drawer ~<16" ful-extension drewer le ‘SIDE VIEW tates di rae ‘NOTE: Keyboard » fear 21264 pion - Pu ase drawer does not hi ‘extend ihe ackof the cobinet a tray font (O) are cut to tant difference. The front of the size from?ihick stock. drawer s hinged to fallinward when ‘& Fullestension Now the fontand sides getarabbet the drawer is pulled out and serves sides make iteasy along one edge to match the thick as a wrist rest while typing, as ius NOTE: See page 25 for tips on installing lower sides tom, they need some cutouts Fig. 8). These cutouts make room for the drawer front to lay fat (Fig 7a). Next, you'l need to cut a shallow rabbet across the front of the bot: tom to accommodate a piane hinge. Its sized for the fill thickness ofthe hinge and Fig. 9a shows the details. @ Atal, auxiliary fence adds a little ‘extra supportwhile making the cut. Now the drawer font (S) can be cut from "thick stock. Its sized to i forplano hinge 4] | 20 Woodsmnith No. 148 overlap the the front of the case. And instead of adding a drawer pull Gt would get in the way when typ- ing), Ijust routed stepped eaves in the ends of the front to make “fin- gerpul's.” Now the drawer front ean be hinged to the drawer. Finally, the draver is mounted to the case with full-extension slides. ‘This is where the lange opening in the subtop will come in handy. ee oh (a. SOR ARTON rnd: _ INSTALL THE MOLDING ‘To dress up the case, | added some skirt and belt molding, asin Fig. 10 But before installing the molding, you'll need to add filler strips to the front ofthe case sothe moliing stands: proud when the doors are attache. A wide skirt filler (T) is fited across the bottom and a narrow belt filler (U) strip is attached to the front of the keyboard shelf, as in Fig. 10. ‘Theskirt molding (V) and the belt molding (W) have a similar profile, ‘The main difference is the width. Because the belt moldings are nar ‘row, its best to rout the profile on an extra-wide blank and then rip itto The last thingto do isto cut ahole final width (Fig. 11). When both in the top for a plastic grommet to moldings are completed, they're run cords through (Fig. 10a). Like mitered to fit and glued in place. on the subtop, the hole can be 400 DECORATIVE FISK TOP. Now you roughed out with a hole sew. Then can add the plywood top (X). The _ to get the two holes to match up, I edging for the top has the same pro- glued the top in place and trimmed file as the belt molding. But here I _ the hole to final size with a router found it was easier to glue the aid lush tim bi. Achamfer around blanks onto the op and then rout the ‘op keeps the grommet from the profile at the router table. chipping the plywoed vencer. CUTTING DIAGRAM LLL No. Ms ‘Woodsmith a 114" bronze koe 7 eevee lee rca 5 then glued in place Wrap-Around Doors Tocomplete the lower cabinet, [built {and tenons) will need to be cut apairofoverlay doorsthatitbeiween slightly off center, the belt molding end the skirt mold- -_To do thie, start by setting the rip ing. I sized them to leave a 14!" clear- fence 3" from the blade and make ance atthe topand bottom and a's" _ the first pass in the door stiles (Z) clearance in the middle (ig. 128). and rails (AA). Then sneak up on MAKING OFF-

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