RS WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT DADO BLADES Weaalail Py -to-Build Cran alWoodsmith No. 146 Publisher Editor Senior Editor Assistant Editors April, 2003 Donald B. Pesctike ‘Terry J.Strohman Jon Garbison “Tod Raife Phil Huber: Todd Lambirth David Krevling DirkVer Steeg Harlan Y, Clark Nathan Robertson Art Director Senior Hlustrators Graphic Intern CREATIVE RESOURCES Crete Dinetor Ted Kraloek » St Pret Desgue: Ken fone, Kent Wah, gen Minick, Caro Fitch Shop rato: Seve Curis, Soe Johnson + St Photographer ‘Srl Bag SPECIALTUBLICATIONS Con. Vi Dongs tacks «An Diet Dol A. int « ‘Slr Grp Dane Cs Gc © Son Btor: re Renssatre Ast or: ol et ° Grubic Denes: Ve ‘Niuean ike» Et ern Cin rnd ‘CIRCULATION Suerte Snir Dim Say Tau Now Bune Cire Me ‘Wile Ringel » romain nab Paik Wl» Real Page Rages = ig Calc Manage: een Cu 1 Gre Marg Anat Ke Scheme, PulaN. Deas «St Gnonie Dege Naicjes Roba a ‘CORPORATE SERVICES Po Rnane: Mary R Schese » Conroe: Robin Huchinsn «Avon tara} Thias Aces Pale ary J. Ste» dec Reacoble Meng Pern» Prati Di Gere Ciblars« Boni Pt De: Doughs M. Lider © ‘Sern nin: CsSarctsi = PCMark Roker, Cine Peres nage Scat Tpy A Cla Mime chon © ‘New hela ge Gorden C. Gap * Wet Ste Art Dies Gene Pedersen» Ib Serer din Carol Scheeppet * Heb Concent tgs: Da gas Ste Now ea Dest kara Blesing *.Reswreh Coordisator, Nick Jur Pro. Dessopment Dir Mikal Sel » HER, Asi Kren Kosle © Offer Mer: Natale Lense Fits Ne: Kurt obs = ‘RecetonstYenwelchssa» Sal taney Lau We \WOODSMITH MAHL ORDER Opertions Dict: Da ler = Cat Sr Me Em = ‘lane Supe: Nancy fheson» Bue da Foes + i ‘Asis ay Dowie) e Ce Se Tana Traded, ‘An Cong Ree Deborh ih at Sr ops ae ‘ey Han » Hae Cag” WooDsuITH STORE Mae: Daye Larson ¢ Mrs Mokena Mes ok Siberet ‘est. Manag Tm Thea «Sols Safe ewe Soe, Larry Morison Mr John, Gry Kann, ean MeCaton © fe Vie Edad NSCOR SIG RSA Ria ay aS ee ee Epo ae ag eee Peri ue a oman Sen ange vfadaesb Worth Bx S712 Boe 8 s nin ‘Questions? Wete wy Wootemih, PO, Box 8, Det Sg sake Se a Opn Cen Se Printed in SA SAWDUST Ave months back, Iwas talking to Chris Fitch (one of our project designers) about coming up with a design forall shelf. Nothing too com- plicated —I wanted tobe ableto build itovera weekend. Altera few days, Chris eame to me with an idea, Not a new idea, as it turned out, butan old one. While doing some research, he ran across an interesting shelf design from the early 1900s. One that had originally been featured in Gustav Stickley's magazine, The Craftsman. Liked what I saw:a couple of shelves connected with slats and attached to 2 wood back frame. ‘The shelf looked like the perfect project — until I looked closer. The problem was the back. Between two vertical stiles was a solid panel that appeared to be about 20! wide. Thi ‘was one wide board Of course, we could have glued up ‘a wide panel for the hack. But there ‘would have been the problem of wood ‘movement to deal with. This would hhave made the joinery used to hold the panel in place pretty tricky. And even if we solved these problems, the shelf would be so heavy that hanging it would have been a real challenge. Twas starting to look ike my sine ple, weekend project was shaping up to be a bit more than I wanted to ‘acide, But Chris wasn't ready to give up on the shelf. 'm glad he didn‘. ‘What we ended up withis a slightly modified version of the Stickley origi- aal. Instead of a solid back, our ver- sion has a true frame with an upper and lower rail and an open space in Detween, This made the joinery straightforward — just simple mor tises and tenons. And it allowed us to come up with acouple design options. For more on this project, check out the article beginning on page 18. ‘The wall shelf isn't the only “old” project we turned to in this issue. Several years back (in Issue No. 61), we built a cherry Shaker hall table. (Oes still here in the building.) ‘The other day Iran across an old photo of the table. To be honest the table looks better now than when it was first built. And we haven't done 8 thing toit. Except dust it) ‘The color has mellowed and turned toarich, reddish browa. Butits taken years to getto that point. Was it worth the wait? In this case, 1 think the answer is yes. Butit got me thinking about when its okay to stain cherry and when it’s best left alone. To learn more about the guidelines we came ‘up with, turn to the article on page 16. “Ta Woodsmith Readers’ Gallery ‘Visit other Woodsinith subscribers’ workshops, and see photos of the projects they've built. It’ all onlin in the ‘ew Readers’ Gallery on the Woodomith web ste wow. Woodsmith.com ‘We want you to be part of the Readers Gallery!‘To submit photos of your favorite ‘Woortsnith projects or views of your shop, folow the instructions youll find atthe Reader's Gallery. Woodsmith No. 46CONTENTS Features Cherry Console . eG Straight, clean lines give this console a contemporary look, But don’t let the simple appearance foo! you. With its frame and panel assemblies, open shelves, and “framed” drawer fronts, there's plenty of woodworking that goes into this project. When To Stain Cherry.. 16 Most woodworkers appreciate the ich, dark color of “aged” cherry. The question is — are you willing o wait for ie w happen naturally or are you going to help it alonga litle? Craftsman Wall Shelf... 2 .-18 ‘Quartersawn oak, and momtise and tenon joinery with a few clas- sic details thrown in — this shelf is the perfect project for you to build in a weekend or two. Dado Blades . 22 Get an upclose lookat dado blades and learn how this important table saw accessory can improve your woodworking. Plus, jind ‘out which ype of dado blade is the best value for your money. Shop-Made Beaded Panels ............ 26 An ordinary bit and a router table are all it tekes to make custom beaded boards forthe storage bench. But don't stop there. This great deteil can be used to dress up a lot of other projects too. Beaded-Panel Storage Bench ........... 28 Here’ a project that throws the traditional mortise and tenon joint a few curves — but ic won't throw you. The construction is staightforward, and well walk you through each deual of this sunique bench step-by-step Departments Tips & Techniques Peat Shop Notes Sources. Beaded-Panel Storage Bench px 23 No. 146 Woodsmith 3FROM FELLOW WoobdWORKERS Mortise Jig For Router Daring a recent project. I slide easity when cxt- needed to cut alot of mor- ting the mortise. tises, so built the plunge _BASEPLATE. Tused the routermortisingjigshown plastic router base inthe photo at ri plate as a template for ‘The jig is realy just an marking the mounting auxiliary base plate made screw holes in the froman8'x8"pieceof'" Plexiglas (Fig. 1) After Plexiglas. But the key to drilling the holes, making this jig work isa_mount the router on pir of siding door track- the plate and insert a ing wheels. (You can find pointed bit, like a V- them at most hardware groove bit. stores) The wheels]used To find the center, have threaded centers for lower the bit until it @ mounting screw, see marks the plastic. ‘margin photo. ‘Then remove the base 1" away. Then dill 234". same distance from the ‘The jig centers the bit from the router and dis. hole forthe bit, asyou center, as in Fig. 3. Then when the router is rotated scratch a line through the can seein Fig. 2. install the wheels and e Ce A ee ue Re SN aa ‘ edges of the workpiece. Next, scribe two lines par- the mounting screws cen- Bul Preston Pus, the wheelslet the jig allel to the center line and tered on the knes and the Cree, Ninos Is NOTE center ri iillcounterunk hols Axes ee ie and mount rollers to plate 4 Siding door rack- ies "enteredon ath ing whedls alow the fe woroll smoothly along the workpiece mee Can Opener Scribe Silicone Brads Ireach for my marking justan electric can opener I've found a better way to ing the glass, Tuse some gaugejustaboutevery day cutting wheel that is attach glass stop. Instead clear, slicone caulk. inmyshop. But Ive noticed screwed into one end of of nailing it in place with After placing the glass ‘Gat the marking point dulls the gauge with a round wire brads and risk crack- in the frame, apply a thin quickly and head screw. Iputa washer bead of caulk to the tenéstofallaw on either side of the cut- frame. Then to hold the grain.So1 ting wheel to support it the stop in place apply ‘modified itby and lett spin freely. afew “dots” ofcaulk to adding a cut The wheel stays sharp the glass, as in the ting wheel to fora longtime and doesn't drawing. And as an @ oneend ——_‘Swander" when marking added bonus, the glass Ds ‘As you can with the grain never rattles. Wie Se tn te John Fredrick Kevin Ruegesger 86x 4° Rhscew—" drawing, i's Apache Junction, Arizona DesMoines, lows 4 Woodsmith No.6Shop Made Clamps ‘When crosscutting long photo to the right out of As you can @ __workvicces on the table some scrap hardwoodand seein the draw- saw, Lattach an auxiliary basic hardware. ing, there’s not fence tothe miter gauge for What’s great about this much to making extra support. simple clamp is that iit. The jaws are “To make it even more works as a handy stop made from 34 useful, [built the clamp block withouttving up any _ thick hardwood, that you can see in the of my other clamps. Between the jaws is a pivot block that is the ~ same thickness as the poreoce auxiliary fence (mine ie eeer-3) 34"). This way, it can clamp flat and tight to the Ls) fence. And it’s beveled on cerioca on 016 face 50 the jaw cat BER" pivot freely. The lat side of the block is glued to one jaw and the other jaw is connected by a wood aweavs screw. To. prevent the Inkjet Refill Glue Bottle use syringetype ink car tridges to refill my com- puter’s inkjet printer at home, as in the photo below. (They are available at office supply stores) Squirting ink into the printer gotme thinking that dle makes Teould use the empty car. tridges as a handy bottle for wood giue. ‘The small needle is per fect for laying down a thin, even bead of glue while assembling small parts. Or for gluing up thin stock, as you can see in the photo at right. What's more, the nee serew from being pulled A. Aninkjec refill syringe laysaa thin bead of gine {for thin stack ov injecting BB Adjustable Shelf (I) 1x 15%8-47% | © Back End stiles(@) _-%x2%-31 P_Bottom Cleat (1) Tex%-6 CCTOp (1) 1x18-52 | D Center End Stiles 2) ¥%4x 22-21% Q Frame Cleats) 44x 1%z-15% DDCove Molding 34x 4-90 rah E UpperEnd Rails (2) 34x 3%-12% R Frame Stretchers (4) %x 14-4 | F LowerEnd Rails (2) %x3%-12% S Outer Dwr Sprts. (a) %x 1%-15% » (24) #8 x 114" Fh Woodscrews G Back Fanels (8) '4ph.- 10% x 21%ie T Inner Dwr Sprts. (2) 34x 312-154% + (8) #8.x 174" Fh Woodscrews H Back Stiles (2) %x2-31_U Dwr FrontsiBacks (4) Yex5¥4-21%e + @) #8 x2” Fh Wocdscews: } 1 Back Center stiles (3) %4x2%-21% V Dur. Sides (4) Wex5%-15 + (8) Plastic Stem Bumpers 4 Upper Back Rail (1) 34x 33%4- 45/2 WDwr.Bottoms(2) Yael. -14/ex21e > (4) #8 x 1%" Rh Woodscrews K LowerBack Rail (I) 34x 37-45% X Dwr Tim Hex 1Y>~100 gh. + (A) #8 Washers j L Front Stiles (2) %x2-31 Y Dur Guides (8) tax %-14 + (8) ie" Spoon-siyle Shelf Supports M Front Rails (3) 4x48 Z Dwr Runners(2) 1x 12-15% + (4) 114" x 1" “Ring” Knobs (Bronze) Seen eaeaiennneaenneneanian | No. 146 ‘Woodsmith 7Sand smooth A Th hide the groove ac the bottom of the end stls, ies best co add a shore plug before you ®- \ LOWER Groote for ‘Back “bottom Rae cut sembly NOTE: All fame. pleces ore He tnck End & Back Assemblies Before getting started, it’s always a ‘good idea to familiarize yourself with how apreject goes together Thiscom- sole isn’t complicated at all. It starts out with three frame and panel assem blies that join to form the ends and back of the case. Later, you'll add a face frame and a bottom panel, but there's nothing tricky about this. ‘As mentioned, the back andend assemblies are built first. This is ‘mostly just cutting stub tenons and grooves, but instead of cutting the frame pieces to size first, it’s best to start with the panels, PANELS. As you can seein Fig. 1, the panels (A, G) are ¥/" plywood so they won't expand and contract (and 0 You won't have to edge glue alot of panels). The problem is most 34" plywood only has one good side, tered the grooves by ilipping the pieces end-forend between passes. and with the open design, [ wanted You'll want to sneak up on the posi the panels to look good outside and tion of the fence so the plywood just in. So for each panel, I glued tivo fits the grooves. And keep in mind pieces of 1" plywood back-to-back. ‘The box on the opposite page will walk you through how you can do this quickly and eficiently. STUES & Rats. The séiles (B, C, 12), center stiles (D, D, and upper (B, JD and lower rails (F, K) are all cut to finished size from $/"thick stock, as you can seein Fig. 1 “The first thing to do is cat the grooves on all the pieces, as shown in Fig. 2. They’re sized to hold the doubledlayered panels, s0 1 used a Yptovide dado blade setup and cen- that the grooves are cut on both ‘edges of the center stiles, Note: For ‘moreon stub tenon and groove join- ery, see the box in the left margin. Nest, the stub tenons can be cut ‘on the ends of the rails and center stiles, as in Fig. 3, Like the grooves, it's quicker to use a dado blade (this time with an auxiliary fence). And again, you want to sneak up on the ‘cut so the tenons fit the grooves. Before these pieces can be assembled, there's a litle work to do on the bottom of the end sfiles. eee se Soe SS ie | HT i aye a i aoe OT ets ‘on both does of Ne —__ enter sties(0, Lea Y a : 4 el] Woodsmith No. M6First, Ieut some plugs to glue into the grooves, as shown in the upper margin drawing on the opposite page. Then the end of the stile can be tapered, as in the lower margin drawing. (did this with aband saw, Dutyou can also use a hand sav.) Once the tapers have been cut and sanded smrooth, the ends can be assembled. This is pretty straight- forward. Just make sure the frame stays fat and the pieces are flush across the top. When both ends are assembled. you can go ahead and putthe back together. ‘There are sil acouple of sieps to complete before you can move on to the face frame in front. As you can seein Fig. 4, the fist thing I did was cuta simple rabbet on the back sile of the end assembies. This «deep rabbet is sized to wrap around and cover the edge of the back assem- bly,as shown in Fig 4a ‘At this point, the nest thing to do is to cut a groove nearthe bottom of each assembly. These will hald the NOTE: Greove in end sembly ie deep > straightedge taped Ve dado bottom panel later, soit's important I figured the table saw isthe best scrap straightedge to the bottom of they all line up (Fig. 1b). But note way to keep the grooves aligned, each assembly, using carpet tape to Ghat the grooves aren't the same but with the “feet” on the bottom of hold itin place, as you can see in depth. Theones oa the ends are "the assemblies, you can't run the Fig. 5. The thing you'll want to con- deep, but the grocve on the back is bottom edge against the rip fence. a litle deeper (*As") so the bottom centrate on is keeping pressure 's an easy way down on the assembly so the groove Fortunately, the panel ean expand into the groove. This console requires a lot of 1/' plywood panels thatare glued up backcto-back: Rather than give exch pair separately, glued up each set of panesat he sare ime, as you can see in the let drawing below. And to help dis- ‘ribate the clamping pressure evenly, Isand- ‘wiched the panels between pieces of?/" MDF. ee to get around this. Simply attach a is aconsistentdepth. ‘When gluing the pairs together, youll ‘want to avoid using too much glue. (You don't want a lot of squeezeout) And iry to ‘keep the edges of the panels lined up as ‘uch as possible. ell make it easier when ‘you trim them to final size as in the rit drawing. (I trimmed each panel separately) er 2 a SaaS Cent cox ee oe = a No.6 Woodsmithbi 48" Ceatadded a ONT Ceatadded after FRONT Satompons! BOTTOM LEAT Fame piecsorad tie) pom ice ‘creates the openings for the two draw cers and the agjustable shelf Z You've probably noticed by now pet aii mak that the face frame is joined with Ss Went to know more | half laps. Unlike a mortise and | c ‘bout cuting halt i i cut wi will chan, . Now youre ready to cut the | set cuting fal) tenonjoint, both pieces are cut with Keep in mind that this will change RAS. re ready tocutthe Face Frame With the end and back assemblies complete, the next see- tion tobuild isthe front fae frame. AS 7 you can seein Fig. 6 above, thi fame | een ee = | basically the same setup, and you some ofthe dimensions. front rails (M) to finished size. Wooosmih.com | article for this on our web site, see started by cutting just the froxt would extend the full length of the cue the margin note at left. But there is stiles (L) tosize, a indicated in Fig. case. But instead of reaching to the curweb ste: will be able to find a sepby-step _STIES. To make the face frame, 1 “Usually with halflap joints, the rails I ‘an even quicker way to build this 6. Then on the outside edge Icut a outside edges of the stiles, these ESS | frame — with pocket hole screws, rabbet that will wrap around the end rails siop at the rabbets, as you can as described in the box below. Just panels, as shown in Figs. 7and 7a, see in Fig. 7a. So the rails end up eI TSA Ca ees Ag Pocket screy joinery is quick —itsdesigned specially for building face frames (like the ‘one for this project). And the procedure could not be any simpler. The frame pieces are cit tolengtheo theybut together Then you dill some angled holes, asin the photo at left Finally, the pieces are clamped together and ‘secured with screws,as shown inthe drawing, “To build this face frame with. pocket screws, youre going to need a drilling some selftapping screws, and a special stepred drill it. (A face clamps aso handy / for holding the faces of the pieces flush.) For UO fe. ‘some mil order sources, turn to page 35. nore: cut front ral 10 Woedsmith No. 46Lif" shorter than the length of the case. My front rls were 48" long) ‘The other piece to cut at this point is the center stile (N). Then you can begin the process of cutting the half laps that join the face frame, as in Figs. 6a and 6b. Just keep in mind thatthe half aps on the ends of the two upper front mils are cut om the opposite face as the one in the cen- ter. (learned this the hard way.) JoTTOM. After the half laps are cut and the front fice frame i glued up, there are still a couple things to do before the case can be assembled First, | glued up a 84"-thick bottom (0), as in Fig. 6. The panel is designed to be glued to the front rail. and extend %g" into the groove in the back assembly, as in Fig. 9a, (This will leave a 4" gap for the bot- tom to expand into.) As for its length, I didn’t worry about leaving any gaps in the grooves in the end assemblies because the woot relly ‘won't expand along its length. With the panel. glued up and sized, the last thing to dois drill four sets of 34".deep holes to hold some shelf pins. To make sure all the pins ended up level with each other, used a simple “story stick" And as you can seein Fig. 8,1 pat atempo- rary cleat in the groove for the bot- tom to setthe story stick against. ‘ASE ASSEMBLY. At this point, you're ready to assemble the case, as shown in Figs 9 and 10. Normal a case assembly ike this ean get lit Romaie each end asembhy 3nd give back No. 145 lence ony laryasserbled ‘te frantic, Not this one. Its glued up fone section ata time, so you won't even need aa extra pair of hands. ‘The first thing I did was to dry assemble the front face frame with, the end assemblies, as in Fig. 9. ‘Then I stid the bottom panel in from the back to sec how it fit. The thing ‘tp watch here is the center. A panel |assemby |] Woodsnith this Iong can sag noticeably. So when you apply glue, you may need 1o force the panel up with hand pres- ‘sure so it’s level across its entire length. When I was satisfied with the fit, I pulled the bottom away from the front rail and applied a thin, ‘bead of glue. Then T slid it back in place and applied the clamps. As the glueis drying, you can cut a smnall bottom cleat (P) and glue it under the bottom te provide addi- tional support, asshown in Fig. 9. When the giue is dry, you can glue the end pane's in place — ne at 2 time, as in Fig. 10. Simply remove the clamps, apply some glue to the front edge, and clamp the assembly ‘back in place. Just be sure you don’t add ghie to the groove for the bot tom. The solid wood panel should befree to expand and contract. The last section to add is the back. Again, the glue is applied to the ends, not the groove for the panel. In fat, there should be alittle ‘gap in back for the panel to expand into, as you can see in Fig. 92.fe Plast “stem Frame srrercHEn ® aa 2 pl {Fk T Stem bumper! ‘aide NOTE Altfane | reces are "thick Atthis point, the case is assembled, noi ready or the two drawers yet There ist any way to sup port them inside the case. That’sthe job of the drawer frames that are adkled next, as shown in Fig. 11, ‘These frames couldn't be any sim pier to build. For one thing they're > 88x 16" thscens — age Frew ae rE a 1 Hele FRAME CLEATS. The pieces to start with are the four %A'-thick frame cleais (Q). These will be screwed 10 the ends of the case to support the stretchers, 28 shown in Fig, 12. “The only thing to do to the cleats ¥s tocuta notch on each end to hold the stretchers. And these notches. Secored with 40.x2" ||| Ph woodserevs| NOTE: Upper and lower fren are ieenial should be positioned so they are flush with the bottom of the drawer opening. And the upper cleats should be flush with the top of the drawer opening, You'll just want to ‘make sure that the notches are ori ented up on the upper cleats and down on the lower cleats. bumper glides" are identical. And each frame starts out _ ere easy to create at the table saw. 1 FRAME STRETCHERS. With the cleats tee fer, cl ra cteda ast spicata ak ttn dene act (gpozind i plese ome een call the lower ave added to the case one piece at a _ an auxiliary miter gauge fence) and _ can be cut to size. These span the rawer supports time. Then three drawer supports used a dado blade raised" high _ length of the case and are sized to fit (and top, back are screwed to each frame. (the thickness of the stretchers). _ into the notches cut in the cleats, mers of the Why two sets of frames? The Then I simply cut the 1'A"-wide Because these stretchers are so. Pele ers Wain one all ae akin miele pumee lene wanlel Gaul pce ey slide in and cut of on the bottom one. Ard the top. Installing the frame cleats inside _ weren't going to sag in the center. the case smoothly. frame keeps the drawer from tip- ise is no big deal either. As you So in addition to gluing them into ping out as it’s pulled open. can see in Fig. 12, the lower cleats _ the cleats, I also attached them to a ceca wang ERS ' aes Ey | smercnen@ © Wocdsmith No. 146the case. The lower back stretcher gO is glued and serewed into the center stiles, as noted in Fig. 11 The other stretchers are simply glued and ‘clamped to the rails, as in Fig. 12 suppoRTs. Now you can cut the a fowrower(S)andiwo inner draver aie awpporte (7) to size, aa in Fig. 11. Refore serewing the lower scpports in place (Fig. 19), I drilled some ¥ holes near the front and pressed in. Sige jeumper plestic stem bumper glides so the oe oe drawers will slide smoothly, shown in the margin photo at let. DRAWERS Like the rest of his gro} NoTe: ct, I kept the drawers as simple Browerpiecs ae VN possible. As you can see in Fig. 14, Bottom and trim DRAWER TRIM the 1A!thick fronts (U), backs (U), ta ‘sides (V) ae cut wo sie 36 T (ee there's a th" gap on each side ofthe ee Baers rawer. And the pieces are joined a with a tongue and dado joint. ~ i Dadoes are cut across the sides . set oN first. Then a matching tongue is cut = ‘view oon the ends of the front and back pieces. Finally a groove fora" ply. Fig. 15. (My guides ended up 1" you want the top ofthe leat to ack ‘wood bottom (W) iseut in all four thick) When ging these strips to up'/abowe the front rail (Fig. 15). pieces (Fig. 14a), and the drawer the bottom of the drawer, Tused a Installing each runner in the ease can be glued together. thick spacer (the same thickness is easier than you might think. Tet ‘The drawer looks like there's a as the runner) anda square to posi it in place and slid the drawer over frame and panel on the front, but as Gon them. Then [cut anotch in the the top ofit. Then when the drawer you can see in Fig. 1, these arejust bottom edge ofthedraverbuckeard was centered in the opening, T Sferahick pieces of aplied trim (X) addled acouple bumper lides‘o the reached under and marked the post that are cut to size and glued to the _ upper back corners (Fig. 14b). tion of the runner, as shown in Fig. front of the drawer. Then you can With the gui¢es in piace, you can 16. Then it can be attached with adi the two knobs (0 each, make the runners (Z) thatgo in the screws and a stubby screwdriver. GUIDES & RUNNERS. To guide the case, These are 1thick pieces that ‘The last thing to do fs add stops drawers in and out of the case, there are cut to length to fit in the case (AA) to the back of the case. The are some guides and runners to front to back And they have goal hereis simply tomake sure the add. The two guides (Y) are sized to notches cut in them just like the front of the drawer ends up flush fitunder each drawer bottom, as in frame cleats earlier. But this time, with the front ofthe case (Fig. 14a) Temporary Pic SéCOnD: ors postion ‘rawer and attach runner No. 146 ‘Woodsmith 18ena countersink ‘utextra . Tapeipands SIDE SECTION rm Bygmands SPE GERTON gust hia 1x TF aid & Rnscrew i Suite | fs d , Shelf & Top ‘The coasole is pretty close to being ‘complete. All at's lett isto add the ‘shelf, top, and some cove molding. CUUE P PaWEs. The fest thing I id ‘was to glue up panels for the shelf (BB) and top (CO), asshownin Fig. Y7.{ decided to use I'-thick stock here. The top looks better with a thicker edge. And the shelf has less of a tendency to sag in the center. SHELE The shelfis going to expand just like the bottom, so when sizing it, Lallowed fora "ja" gap at both the front and back. (There also has to bbe a M4 gap at each end so itwil ft ied. hole ‘ountersunk on each cage mstbins A ‘over the spoon-style shelf pins that are shown in Fig. 17>), oP. The top is sized to overhang the case 14/) at the front and each end. (it’s fush with the back, as in Fig. 17c) And the lower, front edge and ends have a" roundover. Before you can mount the top, there are two things to do. First, shank holes willneed tobe drilled in the frame stretchers, as in Fig. 18. Butrote that I used different screws at the front and back. A flathead ssrew is used in the back tohold the panel flush with the ease (Pig. 17c). Woodsmith In the front, I drilled an oversized hole and used a roundhead screw (and washer). This way, the panel ‘eanexpand and contract atthe front. ‘The second thing to do is add ‘cove molding (DD) to the front and sides. (By doing this now, you don't hhave to put nails through the mold ing) The molding has a ¥4' cove ‘and is mitered to wrap around the ‘case, flush with the top, asin Fig. 19. ‘When you've sanded the molding flush with the case, you can apply the finish and then screw the top down, asin the photo below. ‘A. To frevent ihe wide top pared from cupping, applied several coats of finish ta both faces before Serewing it the case. No. 146SHop NOTES Cutting Tall Shoulders Both the Craftsman wall shelf and storage bench have pieces with four shouldered tenons. Normally, cutting the top and bottom shoulders is just another table saw task But the armas and top rail of the storage bench and the top rail ofthe wall shelf have profiles that create really tll shoulders, And this was a litte different challenge. { had to decide whether to cut the tall shou ders before or after the pieces were catto shape, And then how to doit Tve never had much luck cutting a really clean, tall shoulder on the table saw, Ifthe blades just ait out ‘of square, hasa litle runout, oF you push too hard ageinat the fence, the ‘cut can be too deep. At best you might have a bad fit, at worst the piece might be ruined. But trying to run these pieces through the saw after they were cut to shape didn't seem like a good idea, So Tused a couple different methods to solve this problem. TABLE SAW & CHISEL On the top railof dhe Craftsman wall shelf Trough cut the top shoulders onthetable saw before [cut the piece to final shape. And then I finished them up with some hand work. As you can see in Fig. 1, | used the same setup (after raising the blade) that was used to cut the cheeks and bottom shoulder. ‘The only difference is that you don't want to eut clear up to the shoulder. Using an auxiliary fence ‘on the miter gauge to steady the piece, siart at the outside of the ‘tenon and nibble toward the shoul cer, leaving.a short step (Fig. 12). Now after the top bevel is cut, you can finish up with a sharp chisel ‘This is prety straightforward. Just take light cuts and work down wo the shoulder. As you can see in the photo at right, I came in from an angle using a slicing motion. If the chisel is sharp, the tough end grain vill curt” away easily. BACK SAW & CHISEL On the arms and back rail of the storage bench the deep curves of the profiles would have created really long shoulders. So it made ore sense to cut the pieces to shape and thea cut the shoulder ‘completely by hand. After the pieces were shaped, I sed a small back saw to rough cut the shoulder As you can see in Fig 2 the first eut is down from the end of the tenon to the shoulder line Stay back from your layout line and Gon’ cut too deep. Now cut down along the shoulder line to remove the waste (Fig, 3). Be sureto stay away from the shoulder 0 the saw teeth don't chew up the clean shoulder line. chisel makes paring aw take a shallow cut and the wood wil “cul” away. the sep easy, Just ‘The final cleanup goes just like that described for the top shelf ral But affer you clean up the shoulder, you'll also want to use the chisel (0 clean the top side of the tenon and to forma nice, square edge. No. M6 WoodsmithFINISHING. ToT NOU WHEN TO. STAIN CHERRY ...& WHEN Nor To Z will ast most of the day. z Not only will they argue about stain vs. no stain, ‘but they'll also argue about what type ofstain to use, what brand, and what color. It can be a pretty touchy subject. ‘cuerer. The thing that can make — deciding whether or not to stain cherry, such a head- After years of val igh, ehis cherry table has ‘aged” 10 abeau- ifultich reddish. brown color ww they like to stain cherry or letitaze naturally, and you're ikely to start an argument that © scratcher is that with cherry what you see isn’t always what you get I can remem. ber the first time I planed a piece of cherry. Hooked at itand thought to myself, “How in the world wil this light, pinkishan piece of wood ever have that ich, reddislrbrown ‘cherry’ color I'm looking for? Well L ae ae A The. zuver trim on the cherry console was all ‘cu from the some board. The light plays dif- {ferently on the venical and horizontal 16 C88, eventually it did, Dut it took quite 2 few years and 2 really large dose of patience ‘on my part Ifyou want to see what Im talking about, take a look at the two photos of the Shaker table. The table in the photo above i fresh from the finishing room after just afew coats ‘of rubbecton oll varnish. ‘The color is a little uneven (notice the darker legs) and just barely hints at that beautiful aged cherry color. But after several years, my patience finally paid off. The same table (photo at left) now has an even, dark, reddish-brown color that you'll usually only see on a true, ‘lassic, cherry ant What's the secret heve? This ‘gradual darkening in eolor is actu- ally caused by exposure to the sur’s ultraviolet (UV) ight rays. Youll see it in other woods as well, but in cherry it can be really noticeable andit ean start pretty fast. In fact, IM often see a sight change in the color of cherry even before I'm finished building the project. So the decision you have to make with cherry is — Do I want to use anatural finish and let time and light do the work, ordo Iwant to speed things along and go with 4 stain? And it's best to ask your- selfthis question defore you even begin building the your project. NATURAL FINISH. The reason for this is thatifyou're learing toward a nat- ural finish, you want to be pretty Woodsmaith picky about choosing and laying out the lumber. I zo for the best color ‘match I can get and try to hide or avoid any sapwood. And then T save those really nice boards for the pacts that will show the most. Take the chery coneole in this issue, for example. From the begin- ing, I thought it was a perfect didate for a vatural finish. With i simple lines and minimal detail, a rubbedon finish really comple- ‘ments the look of this project. Ijust took 2 litle extra time picking out some really nice pieces of wood. And after rubbing on a few coats of ‘varnish, nature will do the rest. THE SHORT Texm. Ifyou decide to go with anatural finish, there are afew things you should be prepared for. First, you've got to be willing to take the wood as it is. No matter how careful you are selecting your Iam- bey, there are bound to be seme inconsistencies in the color and appearance of the wood, ‘Take a look at the photo of the console drawers a left for example. You'd probably think I did @ pretty poor job of choosing wood for the ‘rim. Wel, believe it or not, all the pieces came from the same board. Ie just the play of the light that No. 146causes the color of the horizontal and vertical pieces to lok diferent. ‘Mier ime al the pisces will Bend together, and in the short run it's something Ican easily ive wih, PATIING. Another thing to con- sider if you plan on using a natural finish i hove long you're willing to wit to et that warm, dark cherry color. There are several factors that affect how fast your cherry ages — light exposure, the finish you use, and the wood itself. But you need to be prepared to wait at least. a few years to get that “antique” look. If you want to speed up the process, I've learned that a rubbed- noi nish that soaks io the wood will darken faster and even a litle oper than abuiltup finish ike var nish or lacquer. But then if you want to.usea heavier finish, just put on a coat of linseed oil or tung oil first to seta litle head start. HMSULI. There’ one other thing to consider when using a natural finish and that is the fact that itcan be hard to predict how the project will look after it has aged. Although the wood will eventvally darken, there's really no way to control how muck it darkens. So with 2 natural frish, you are really at the mercy of the wood itself. STAIN. As nice as a natural finish can look on some projects, there are times when I think it makes more sense to use ¢ stain on cherry. And there are a couple of reasons that might make me decide to take this route. TH WooD. Sometimes the wood youre working with will dictate the typeof finish you use. Nowand then Til find some cherry that looks so nice it would break my heart to cover it with siain, So I don’t. But Tm not aways this lucky. When you shop for cherry, youll find that much of the lumber that's available today has some color variae tion and little “defects.” Small pin nots, dark sap streaks, and boards with a good amount of light colored sapwood are common, On a natu- rally finished piece, the sapwood wont derken andl will sick outlikea sore thumb. So Tiluse a stain asa ‘way to even out the variations in color and hide any defects, as you see in the upper photo at right. also like to use a stain whenever Tin building a project that mixes solid cherry with cherry veneer piy- ‘wood. The plywood is often just ‘enough darker than the freshly planed solid wood to make me reach for the stain can. DETAIL. Using a stan on cherry has another nice benefit. On a project like the blanket chest shown at right, the stain “tones down” the ‘wood alittle bit and allows the beau- fiful detail of the moldings and the bracket fet to take center stage. On ‘most of my more “formal” pieces, ‘A. The light scpwwood in this board won't darken with age Buta single coat of cherry stain can hide it A. I puracoat of Woodsmith’s cherry stain om this blanke: ‘chesc to even out the color and highlight che deus go this route and I'm usually pleased with the result, Plis, you ‘get the bonus of having that classic cherry look without the wait. Finally, keep in mind that when it ‘comes to finishing cherry, you can't really lose, Whether you decide to use a stain or a natural finish, it’s hhard to beat the beauty of cherr Cl LE | Inthepas. when Fappied thin of slainsto cherry, [had probleme with blotching, Thick, gelled oi] stains work really well to contro] this. But since they don't flowlike a thin stain, they canbe a pain to apply, expecially to a large pro. ‘ect. 8 I decied to mica galled stain witha thinner oil stain to get anice color that wouldnt blotch: and was casy to apply. Ater lit tle experimenting, Looked up Just he right ‘retipe” Now Tuse this mixtre exchasvely on cherry with great results. ; ; igredents Ee Chery i a | | + Combine ingredients ina suitable ‘container. Shake or str until mic- tureis ceamy and lump free + Apply with a brush or soft doth Let stand 5 minutes, Wipe off |] excess working with the grain, | + Let dry everight i ene le nna No. M6 WoodsinitAsse) PROJECT GRAS | VYALL SELES Build an American classic this weekend. nice when you nda gre MATERIALS x project that can ds for this shelf, beawarethatit g sples(2) 134 requires three different thicknesses Upper Ral (1) acomplicated GA", %!, and 1"). So if you don't © jawer Ral (1) ssembly. Or require lots of have access to a thickness plan sive hardware, That's why [like this make sure you can g straightforward to build, thicknesses before g to spend some pros tapes time in the shop —and end up with FRAME (2 prliMounting Before starting, I should mention Fig. . ‘man furniture). But just about any _ that the frame pieces aren't all theFigs, Land 1b, thestiles are cutto size from T'thick stock, while the upper and lowerrails are only 3" thick. ‘There are just two things to do to the stiles (A). First, Iworked on the mortises. Because the frame pieces are different thicknesses, the mor- tises arent going to be centered on the stiles. What you wantis t oftset them so the frame ends up with a YP shoukler at the front of the frame and all the pieces are fush at the back, as in Fig. 1b ‘There'sno particular method you need to use to create these mor- tises like to drill overlapping holes with a Forstner bit and then clean upthe walls witha sharp chisel. ‘The last thing to doto each stile is shape the top end, as in Fig. 1a. I taped the stiles together with dou- blesided tape. This way, both Tout top shoulder. of tenon, See page 15 curves could be laid out, cut, and sanded smooth atthe same time. Rails. Next, the upper rail (B) and lower rail (C) can be glued up from 3(!-hick stock andl eat to final size. Then you can cut tenons to fit the mortises you cut earlier. I did this at the table saw with a regular blade. This meant making a few extra pesses for each tenon, but T did this because the shoulder cuts on the top of the upper rail are too deep to cut with a dado blade, asin the drawingin the right margin, With the tenons roughed ott, the profiles can be cut. The upper rail has tapers that meet at the center. ‘The lower ral gets.a curve. (To lay ut wae ‘rcove for “mounting cps Woodsmith this out, referto Fig. 9 on page 32) 1 cut the profiles with a band saw, staying to the waste side of the ine and then sanding theedges smooth, asin Fig. 2. When this is done, you ‘can clean up the top and bottom shoulders of the tenons with a chisel, as deseribed on page 15. Before gluing up the frame, the last thing to do isto cut awide, shal low groove across the back face of the upper rail, as in Fig. Later, this ‘groove wil hold the mounting clips forhanging the shelfon the wall For now, the frame can be glued together, and you can drill the coun tersunk shank holes for attacking the shelves later, asin Fig. below. Tia Cae) A The upper shou der on the upper ral is cu dif tha the othe, see page 15. g ore Ae ‘Shank holes for a). Severs Fig: 8 00 page 21) bese fe 9A Just like all the ‘morties, the long, soppee dadoes for the brackets are create by dling ‘overlapping holes and then deaning hem up witha sharp chisel Cutereentered enone before vadiosis cat ‘on bracket Shehies are 4" thc pire i We rackets are 1 thick Shelves, Uprights & Brackets With the frame complete, the next shelfand rail, asshownin Fig. a. ting the cheeks, you can sneak up pieces to add are the shelves, as in All thet's left for the shelves now on the shoulder in front until the Fig.5.Theyreconnecied teach end is to cut mortises for the vertical bracket just fits the Stppped dada in ‘with two uprights and supported on uprights and a stopped dado forthe the botom shelf ond is fush at the thebottom with acurved bracket. bracket. I made all ofthese like the back, as you can see in Fig. 7a SHEL. Likethe rails earlier, youll mortises in the frame earlie, as ASSEMBLY. At hispoint, the shelves, ‘want to glue up the two sketves (D) show inthe margin photoat left. uprights, and brackets can beaded from %j"-thick stock. Then they can UPRIGHTS. The twoshelvesarecon- to the frame. There's no need to be cut to length so they are I" rar- nected by four "thick uprights work with all these pieces at once. rower than the frame (Fig. 5). (®), asin Fig. 5 After cutting them You can start by gluing the two ‘The firstthing to doto the chelves to size, the tenons are cut to ft the brackets te the bottom shelf. iscut some notches that allow them mortises in the shelves, as illus- Now the bottom shelf can be to fit against the frame without any trated in Figs. Se and 5b. added to the frame. To center the _gays. This can be done easily atthe BRACKET, The lst parts to work on shelf on the holes already drilled in table saw with a dado blade and a are te two brackets (F) that sup- the frame, you can clamp a tempo- (all auxiliary miter gauge fence, a8 port the bottom shelf. These are cut rary, %"-wide cleat flush with the in Fig. 6 below. Just sneak upon the to finished size rom 1"thick stock. top edge ofthe lower rail, a2 shown size ofthe notches until the shelves _Relorecutingthecurveson these in Fig. 8. With the clest and the fit between the sills in the frame brackets, you'll want to create the notches in the bottom shelf, you and there's no gap between the tenon on top, asin Fig.7. After cut- don't have to worry about position-ing (or leveling) the shelf, Just glue and screw iin place, ait Fig. 88. ‘The next step is to add the ‘uprights and the top shelf (Fig. 9) ‘The uprights are just glued in place, while the top shelf is glued and screwed tothe frame. ‘OPTIONS & FINISH. Now that the wall shelf has been assembled, it’s time toaprly the finish. (Note: There are two design modifications you might ‘want fo consider first, see the box below) Since most Cratsman-style projects vere originally fairly dark, 1 applied Minwaz’s Aged Oak gel stain, Then you can apply a few cats of aclear topecat: deca ett When the finish is dry, hanging the shelf is easy. T used mounting clips with identical inter locking halves, as you can see in Fig. 10, Just make sure the two \ Frame zi] Ss halves attached to the wall are screwed info studs with their “points” up (and level). Then screw the otter two (“points” down) inthe groove on the back of the shelf. 09 postions ationsnot (Ga ‘dps ater Stacy wall cps Here are 2 couple design optionsyou might want toconsider for this wall shelf In the photo below. abeaded panel back has been added. The photo at right shows a shelf with a beveled mirror ‘Neither modification will give you any trouble. Forboth options, the first thing you'll need to do is rout a rabbet in the back of the frame, using a hangheld router and a rabbeting bit. Butnote thatthe rabbets aren't the same size. PO TSC at) ‘To make the beaded panel option, youll want = to make (or purchase) some beaded boards, as described on page 26. To hold these in place, I centered a single nail on each board. (Allow enough room for each to expand and contract) For the mirror option, Iordered a 4" mirror with a 11f"wide bevel (Allow for a" gap on cach side.) Then I made some stop to hold itin place and set iton !4!'shick spacers. A Rabe the face ofthe ead boards 0 they're fush withthe back. ‘Then nal cham in place individually aa fee ex = a | be iy salar es epee? | eee oa aS ae (SS ait sop, drlhols for ‘& With both options, a rabbet is routed with a the brads and set the Ses eabbecng bri The depths re diferent) 1 rror on fa Spaces 90 [Cail ecanesied etal gent cided Teta cetera Dav No. M6 WoodsmithBLADES: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW accessories that wouldn't want to be without, my dado blade would be near the top. Inmyshop it seems ike every other step (or more) ina proj- ectinvolves the dado blade. And it's not just for cutting dadoes and grooves. Is more Eke 2 one-stop, ery station. I use it to cut tenons, tongueand grooves, box joints, half: laps, abbers, moldings, and more. It canbe a really versatile tol The adjustable = dail (left) is ‘guck and vasy touse, but the stacking dado (ight) can do mere end do it ester. Take the cherry console on page 6,for example. Iput the dado blade to work right offthe bat: cutting the centered grooves in all the stiles and rails. A couple passes for each ‘groove, and I was done. Now what about all the tenons? Just alittle bi ‘wider setup with an ausiliary fence, and they were cut in pretty short order. And then came the rabbet that join the frames — again with the dado blade. Finally I needed to ‘Woodsmith cut some halFlaps to join the front frame pieces. And how do you sup. pose I did i? Just one guess. But dont get the wrong impres- sion. I don't use a dado blade because I'm lazy. I use it because it allows me to do a high-quality job with the least emount of work. Basically, alla dado blale does is cutan extra wide keri, This seems preity simple, but there’s more to it than you might think. All dado blades arent the same, and if youve never used one or are new to them, you probably have a few questior What type of dado blade should 1 own? (There are several types and sizes.) How much should { pay? And. how do I set it up to use i These are all good questions and deserve some good answers. TYPES OF DADO BLADES. ‘There are really just two basic types of dado blades — the adjustable type and the stacking type. Both have been around for a long time and have their advantages and shortcomings. No. 116Adjustable Dado Ae oome Smee he past is adjustable dado picked up the nick- name “wobble” dado (also called the drunken blade). And if you've ever: used one, you can understand why. OW T WORE. An adjustable dado hel dipl see weed ae beveled hub. As the tilted blade ‘on the arbor, it looks like it's wobbling. Aud duslead of eich toa eating one bead the ote, cos toth traces a Aiferent path feline what you end up with is a wide cut. ‘You can adjust the width of the cut (the amount of “wobble”) by turn- Ing he blade bn fe hub change the tilt, It's really pretty simple. RSE, And em thas he ain attraction of the adjustable dado — simple setup and adjustment. You an Soefune ite make any with cat within de blade’s mis (ssually 14" to about 7"), without taking it off the saw. And a second plus is that compared to a good stacking dado they're pretty inexpensive ($20 to $60 fora 7" blade). Mss, But before yourun outo payee oak dora ode ‘My main complaint with adjustable ‘ypial bottom shape at different wieths “agit with ‘unin bade on hub = Li = dadoes is that at most settings they ‘yon't cut a flat bottom. The better ‘onesare specially sharpened (Fig.1) to cutflat ata specific width (usually 14s" or 34"), but at any other width you're out ofluck. In Fig. 1d you can ‘see how the shape of the bottom changes with the width of the cut. Another drawback can be chipout UE UR Ul Acouple of companies offera twin: bladeadiustable dado ometimes called a V-wobbk).The twoblades ‘are connected ina “Y" shape and ‘move in and out as the hub is ‘turned. This changes theshape of ‘the Vand the width of the ext. “The idea is that itwill make a ‘kaner, flatter bottomed cut than ‘standard adjuctablo dado. And it does. But ifs not a great improvement. You still get a “scalloped” bottom at most ‘widths (crawing below). But this bladeis avallablein an 8 siz, 20 it’s abit moreversatile than the 7" adjustable dio. Each blade makes half ofthe cut and will loo asealoped bettors ‘Stmost witths ee 1 = ae No.146 Woodamith along, the shoulders of the cut. ¥ A good quality Working with the grain, wor't bea adjustable dai» problem. But geting a really clean makes a slighty ‘cut across the grain in hardwoods cleaner cu, but stil and especially “chippy” plywoods chips in herd-t- (like the oak plywood inthe margin) handle oak ply- can be next to impossible. This is wood. And the really going tobe a problemwithan wider she cut, the inexpensive blade (Dhotoat right). __poner che ves Basically, you've only got one or inexpensive two teeth that are responsible for adustibleded> cutting at the outside edges and each point in between. And what's more, the wider the cut, the more “ground” each tooth has io cover So you can see why an. adjustable dado might cutalitle rough, ‘A 6000 cur. Setting up an adjustable dado is as easy as putting the blade on the saw and “dial ing’ in a width, Then you'll always want to run a test piece to ‘check the width and depth of the ‘cut. This will so help you fine-tune thefence setting. With an adjustable dado itcan be hard to tell where the ‘outside edges of the cut will be. For the best results just make shallow passes with a slow feed rate And if you're using an adjustable dado to cut joinery (tenons, half laps) use the width setting where the blade will eut at nd square, High quality adjustable dado 23Stacking Dado Adjustable dadoes are easy touseand are fine for an occasional task. But if you wanta bide you can rey on to ————___ auttclean, accurate joinery day inand Seyeled tee day out, a good quality stacking dado onde isabetter choice. CUTTERS. AND cUPPERS. ‘The ‘dea behind the stacking dado is pretty simple. There are two scoring blades that define the outside edges for shoulders of the cut, with a “sack” of chipper bdesin between that clean out the waste (ig. 2) A The scribe lines at ‘The cuts made by the scoring se elges of the cut blades and chippers overlap to give wore |) help prevent you a flatboitomed cut. The chip- (oatbornut |< Chips es the pers come i dierent thicknesses (ote, Hae exis theca. CA, Yaad 4") So by puting dit ane ae {erent combinations together, you By ccan cat 4 variety of widths. Thin they cart handle erosscuts in ly scoring blade should cut as shims can be inserted between the wood without serious chipping, as smooth a shoulder as a slandard blades to finetune the width. youcanseein the photo below. blade with twice as many teth. CARHDE SES. Allstce! tacking sets SCORING BABB, Te outer scoring But ve foun tha the toth fea are sill avaible bul odey, carbide des account frat ofthe difer ture dat leads to areal clean, chip- toothed sts ae the way toga. But ence in quality between ects, Those free ct inal types of material ie they're not all the same. You can blades shoul cut. clean (20 negative hook ane, As voucansee buy a carbide stacking set fora lt chipoud), square, and flat wth an in the margin drawing, this teoth tle a5 $20, and basically you'll get almost invisible “sre line at the looks Batter and Ess aeressive LI ee What you pay for But then some of edges of the cut (upper margin) ‘What this transates tos a slower eee [aioe | the more expensive setssellfor over All scoring blades use acombine feed rate and a more upward cutting |__| 27016 | $00, which is pretty steep. 1d settle tion of beveled teeth and flattopped action, ‘The blade I use in my shop & Avoothwitha somewhere in the middie. The rakers, The beveled teeth all angle has a negative hook angle, and I negative hook Freud set shown in the photo on to one side and the two blades are highly reccomend this feature. (i's anyle cuss less page 22 proved itselfin my shopand mirror images (a left and right), as _great for crosscuts in plywood.) cgqressively end retails for about $100, shown in the upper margi CHIPPERS. ‘The chippers are what leaves a cleaner Where youl really see the differ’ The number of teeth on the scor- create a smooth, flat bottom, so it shoulder, cence between seis, is in the quality ing blades can vary quite a bit (as follows that they all use a flat- of the cut in hard-4owork materials _ many as 42to as few as 12), but this ground tooth. ‘The less expensive like veneered plywoods. The less doesn't seem too important to the blades have two-tooth chippers, cexpersive blades will doa toler- quality of cut. Since all the beveled while the better ones have chippers able job in solid wood but teeth angle to one side, 2 24to0th with four or six teeth. But the really important thing about the ehippers Amid priced postive is that they're accurately sized s0 Piss aeetiece ‘you end up with a lat bottom. ‘inooth shoulcer 7 08 82 Stack sets come in 6 or 8" diameters. What you need is a blade tha’s atleast 2" smalier than the capacity ofyour saw fan 8" biade for a 10" saw), The reason for this is fairly simple, The teeth of a smaller blade will be moving slower, but they'll have more cutting force (orque) behind them. But even a 6" blade will stil cut Youean see mneroueh over 1" deep, so if you have a low: bovomiehty aninex- powered 10" sav, you might be bet pinavecabice setter offwith a biade, An allste! stacking sot Chis badly an teavesa reuigh bottom with deep sabe ines Ey Woodamith No.6Setting Up Before you make that first satisfying cat you need get setup, aud there are just a few simple tricks to this, ONTO THE SAW. A stack dado goes onto the saw one piece ata time. Ive tried to put a “pre-built” stack on the ‘saw, but Lean say it doest't work. When you put the first scoring bade on the arbor, just make sure you've got the correct bade (leit or right) with the teeth pointing in the right direction (Fig. 3). Nest comes a chipper. But before nt add it tothe stack, make sure Ps -lean. You don't want any saw. dust “shimming” the stack. The ‘important thing whea setting a chip- per is to place the teeth in the gu Jets of the scoring blade (Fig. 4). Set fest chioger ingulletor scofing blade pasted ye ta An*accessory’ dado insert for your {able saw wont cost you much (S15 10$2%), Buta shopmaile zero clea~ ‘ance insert can give you a cleaner cat, and it’s also safer when you're ‘working with narrow pieces. Start with a piece of wood (ply- wood works great) that’s the sane thickness as your insert (usually about ¥4!). Then you can Just use the insert as pattern to ‘make a new insert blank (Fig. 1) [Now as more chippers are wded, they should be staggered to balance the blade, as in Fig. 4, Then after the outer scoring biadeis added, Imake sure that nothing shifts when I tighten down the arbor nut. ‘AMter the dado insert is installed, just give the blade a turn to make sure it spins free. A test cut will tell you if the setupis accurate SITING THE BLADE. The stack set I use came with four 34" and two Ys" chippers, but the number and sizes ‘ary with diferent sets, Some man ufacturers have caught on to the problem of undersized plywood and are now including ae" chipper. Once you know how to set up your blade, getting the right size stack is just a matter of arithmetic. With different combinations of the scoring blades (never use just one scoring blade) and chipper, you can cut irom ¥" to about "Ao" wide. “This maximum width is pretty stan dard, since most arbors won't holda wider stack. Cafety Note:The nt should always be fully threaded.) SHINMING. Te found that even the more expensive stack sets usually PET ag Now the next steps take a litle care. With the dado blidelowered beneath the table and the blank in place, position the fence over the side of the insert (Fig. 2). Just make sure it’s not over the blade, ‘Next tighten down the insert with a couple of thin shims between the fence and the blasle, On, ‘saws the back of the fence might need to be clamped (Fig. 2a). need to be shimmed to get even standard widths ike or 4", imming can be ariel and error process. But as you get to know your blade better, it gets easier. ‘Shims are made from a lot of differ- ‘ent materials, and a good set has i ferent thicknesses 6, 10, 15, and 20 ‘thousandlths). [fixe ty use the mag: netic type since you can stick them right to a blade. The thing to remember about shimming is to spread them out aeross the stack so you don't create a gap (sce margin) 4 6000 CUT. The final ingredient for a dean, accurate cutis the right technique. And this is pretty simple. Firs, [always make a test cut to ‘check the setup. And then I sneak up on the cut with slow, shallow passes — never more than abo Yi ata time. When you're cutting the workpiece with aserap. And finally, since you often can't see the blade, always be aware of whereit's going to exit the cut. A A xero-cleerance mse. can : make your dado blade a little more user-friendly, | When everything is in place, tura on the saw and slowly raise theblate through the insert Fig, 2), Adding a finger hole to the insert makes iteasier to remove. Insert blank same thickress ‘ser’ Blo No. 146 ‘Woodsmith A Too many shims ‘atone spot (right) ull result m « cap in thecut. ccrossgrain in “chippy" material, take an inital light scoring pass. Ifchipout al the end ofthe cut is going to be problem, back up A Shims cam be magne (op) brass (middie) laste (bottom) ‘or even pur.AN YeToy NSO eines SUS SHOP-MADE BEADED PANELS ‘Try your hand at these easy-to-make panels using a simple router table Riis M:: 1g the beaded panels for the stor age bench (page 28) gotme thinking fall the oher poets hat | could add this greatlooking detail to. And itgocswith almost any style (ikethe wall shelfon page 18). Soeven ifyou don't plan on building the storage Beaded pands can beachor the wal shel, youl still want fe alded to almest to give this technique a try. any project — Aside {fom looks, you may want lirge or mall. to make your own beaded boards Like the storage because premade panels aren't fench and wall available in most wood species. Best shelfin tis bsue. of all, the whole process can be done on yourrouter table. A pointcut Serre onepar souud-over bit enna nakes iceasy to reat your oun teaded board on your roseer able A. Afier outing the beads, you con clean 1p the grooves with some sandpaper wrapped arcu a pointed sanding block 26 ae ee serur. Now routing the beaded panels isn’t all that hard to. do. ‘They're just narrow boards with a series of grooves routed in one face, plusa tongue cut on one edge and a ‘groove in the other. But it paysto be END VIEW a ie A To remote burned areas, use the bic to serape along one side of che root, then lip the board and scrape the other side Woodsmith organized. After all, you'll be mak- alot of boards (6 for the stor age bench). So [found its best to ke them inan assembly line fsh- ion, This way youll run all the boards through the router at one seiting before moving onto the next cut. (set a table near my router table to keep the stacks organized.) Tegan by cutting panel blanks to final length and width. Its a good idea to make extra panel blanks for test cuts and to have afew extra so you can match color and grain for the best look. For the bench, I ‘made a helf dozen more.) Now pick up the first board and lay out the grooves on one end, You'll use it to set the router fence for each set of cuts, as in Fig, 1a We BIT. The bit I used is called a “pointcut rounetover bit” as in the lower margin photo. Think of it as a fancy V-groove bit. And by routing two grooves side-by-side, you can ‘get nice bead pattern. The bit ‘comes in two sizes, a 14" radius and a Yh" radius. For our projects we used the larger bit. (Turn to page 35 tofind out where you can getit) At this point you're ready to start routing. One thing you'll notice when you start routing the first No. 146grooveis that it does the bi ook atthe lower right photo. Once a groove had been routed ‘on every board, | grabbed my senup board and reset the fence for the fee ike any= thing is happening. That's because it removing a lot of mate- rial. If you flip the piece over don't bbe surpirsed if you see what looks like lint in the bottom of the groove. ‘The reason for this that the tip of the bit isn't really catting (t's jst spinning). You can clean out the fuzz by making a couple of quick passes over the bit. And for final smoothing, I made a pointed sand- ing block, as in the lower left photo ‘on page 26. There's one more thing: to Keep in mind. Some woods, like cherry, tend to burn. To see an easy ‘way to remove burn marks, take a next cut. After routing afew more boards, I noticed the bit wasn't cut ting as well asi used to. The prob- Jem io a build up of pitch on the bit that causes it io run hotter and cut slower. But you can take care of it with a quick spray of bit leaner. That’ realy all there isto routing the beads. But there are sill our Although the beaded panels look great just the way they are, there is one mor? step you can take that will make them look even better. “Tp see what I'm talking about, takea look atthe pho- {os at right. Inthe top photo, the beading drops behind the rail. This doesn’t provide st ingle ion ane , f¢ ple of other things to do before the ‘Doards are ready to be installed. TONGUE AND GROOVE. With tho ‘beads cut, the tongues and grooves ‘can now be routed. To cut these -grooves safely, [made a push block with a cleat on the end, as in F ‘Then a ‘A"-leep, centered groove PE ele clean, crisplook. But ifyou Took at the lower photo you ‘ean see how a simple rabbet allows the beading to end on top ofthe rail ofthe project. I’sno problem to rout the rrabbet in one pass using the feaceas 2stop. Allittakes is 4 3h! stright Bit. And to of scrap to back up the cut, What youre looking for here is to cut the rabbets slightly deeper than. the beads (4), as shown below. ‘The width of the rabbet will ‘match the width of the rab- det in the rails (@bout 74" on thebench),asyou canseein letail‘a below. END VIEW cut rabbet torte rail Boulder ee Pear a can be routed on each board, as shown in Fig. 24 Since you can't ‘sneak up on the width of the groove A"), you'll want to take the fime to make sure the bit is centered by using some test pieces. Finzlly, all 2. that’s left to do is cut a tongue to fit the groove, as in Figs. and a. A When the cee Gaalae Ireind the rails, iterates dark shadous and a “fu” joint. alliill| {| Vi A. Adding a rabbet to the ends of the parels makes aris jome Tine and a more finishe lok. No.6 WoodsmithBEADED-PANEL STORAGE BENCH Here’s a bench with lots alee ‘ere’s one of those projects that has it all: fresh, clean ook, ots of storage, and some interesting challenges. Allthis ina project that’s not all that complicated — just A mortise and tenon frame with some beaded panels It the mortise and tenon joints that provide a lot of ‘the interest. There are acouple different “variations” — each vith its own solution, Nothing you'l ind dificult There's just enough here w keep you On your tes Ofcourse the paneling jont your runof the mill detail ier: Monit this bench ont of ash, so (made my ovin ‘Beaded board, as deserbed on page 26, But ifyoi usecurred ait sider af back than at front ech Best wn Satesin ., Construction Details 1 en ere page st ‘OVERALL DIMENSIONS: stowaetn so nlabist fr. sack supront | 4 ‘Curve shay seca Se ails fas yath sce face of lege pote of 8 tock sa 8 ‘espe \ ‘BOARD cutee boards trimmed “beaded “pattern” ‘conectont on onde Bench but with adtane Ye thich ooh (rd 3 quartersheet A Front Legs (2) 1x 2h- 23% B Back Legs (2) Wax 2e- 26% € End Rails (4) Vx 2-17 D Curved End Rails(2) 4x5 -17 E Upper Stietchers (2) 94x 174-50 F Lower Stietchers(2) 34x 20-50 G Back Suppor (1) 3x6 -50 ‘ore piywcod) ig acviead a fe Guting| Baga fer ths projec a0 Twuitvoodsmen.com | MATERIALS & SUPPLIES H Bottom Cleats %4x%4-130in in L Lower Stops Bx1-130inin 1 Bottom (1) kph -17 x48 M Seat Support (1) Wxd -48 4 Beaded Boards (46) 12 x344-9_N Seat (1) 34x 156-4776 K Upper Stops 1x 1%4-130In.in. © Seat Cleats (2) Ux Me 12 + (1) 48" Brass Piano Hings wiScrows Q)Lid Stays (Left & Righ') w/Screws + (46) #8.x 1" Fh Woodscrews (6) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews No. 148 Woodsmith 2End Assemblies ‘quick look at the exploded view above, and you can see how the fame ‘ofthis bench is built — with mortise and tenon joinery. But take a closer look, and you'll find thatthese aren't your “standart” mortises and tenons. ‘The mortises aren't centered on the thickness of the legs, and the tenons aren't centered top to bottom either, ‘This makes the joinery a bit more interesting — without being much. more difficult. Allit takes is a careful layout and a little hand fitting (which Til describe in detail later). lcs. By now, you've probably noticed that the legs for this bench. nee NOTE: See 2090 31 sorcurved ral patter —1r —>| = uD Nore: Leas pices of Fete tock are 11" thick, but each leg starts out as two pieces of %-thick stock that arc laminated together. (Yellow sue worksjust fine for this) ‘When the front legs (A) and back legs (B) have been glued together and cuttto size, you can begin work on the mortises. As you can see in Fig. 1a, they're laid out 60 the con necting rails will be flush with the inside face ofthe lee. While you're laying out the mor- tises, keep in mind that they aren't in exactly the same position. Youre actually ercating two mirrored pairs of legs, as in Fig. 2a. should ako All edge get ‘i rouredover point out that the mortises for the curved rail aren’t the same size. The ‘ones on the backlegs are 14" longer, asindicated in Fig. 2b. Once you have the mortises care- fully laid out, there’s nothing unique about cutting them. As you can see inFig 3,{dilled overtgning bores @ soe eect wr ae tre lowed up with a chisel to clean the cheeks and square up the ends. ‘The last thing to do to the legs is rout or sand a 4" roundoveron both. eaceaiie eis eee in Fig. 2a (The inside corner is the one closest to the mortises.) PRONE LG ero x BACK LEG | ae “ OTE: Right legs oFleftloge nore: Inside Sele Sure ‘WoodsmithRAILS. Now the four end rails (C) and two curved end rails (D) canbe Ccutto size from thick stock, asin Fig. 1. They're all cut fo the same length (179, but the blanks for the curved rails are quite abit wider “To cut the tenons on the rails (). Tused a dado blade, as in Fig. 4. Sneak up on the heigt ofthe blade until the thickness of the tenons Iaiches the mortises. Then alter ceuiting one shoulder at Yi" (Fg. fa), flip the rail over to cut the other shoulder (Fig. 4b). Sneak up on the height ofthe blade until the tenon fitsits mortise as shown in Fig. 4b. Before cutting the tenons on the curved rails, [photocopied the pat tern below at 250% and tracedit onto the two blanks, as in Fig. 5. Then alter the two cheeks were cut, the two outside (opposite) shoulders can becut using the setup shown in Fig. da The inside shoulders willbe ccutwith a hand saw, as shown in the ‘margin photo, But first, T cut the rails to shape (Fig 6). ‘After the tenons are complete on the curved rails, there are sill (wo things to do before the ends can be assembled. First eut a rabbet on the edge of the rails (C) that have thetallr shoulder, asin Fig. 7. (This will become the inside edge that hhokds the beaded boards) Finally, the edges ofthe rails need to be rounded over, a8 indicated in Fig. a [rounded over allfour edges of the curved rails but only the out side two edges of the straight rails, ‘assenoty, At this point, the legs ‘and rails can be glued together: The Se 2B Aux. fence 10 lade straight end rails should fit without any trouble — just make sure the rabbets face each other, as shown in Fig. 1a. But when it comes to the curved rails, don't be surprised if you need te fine-tune the top and bottom shoulders of the tenons to get them to line up with their mor- tises in the legs. Finally, make sure your end assembiies are mirrored. ‘You don’t want to end up with two leftor two right assemblies) ‘A To create the last shoulders on the curved rails, used hand saw and a chisel. To see how, tue to page 15. ings 2am or | false patter” | | ‘CURVED END RAS Woodsmith6° round. over anal four edges ene. assemby Stretchers, ow that the end assemblies are com The procedure for plete, the nextstep istocconnectthem as before. (Refer to ottom, & Beaded Panels the same with stretchers and aback support, as 31.) But note that since the pieces shown in Fig. 8. There really isn’t aren't the same widths, the tenons such tha’s new here. These pieces you cut won't end up the same are longer than the end rails, butthe either. Still, this shouldn't affect the joinery isalmostidenticl procedure (or your setups). STRITCHERS & BACK SUPPORT. Like the While cutting the tenons an the rails earlier the upper (E) and lower _ stretchers, youcan go ahead and cut stretchers (F) and back support (G) the cheeks and bottom shoulders of are cut tothe same length (60"), but the tenons on the back Support. But the upper and lower stretchers are like the curved rails, youll want to different widths, asin Figs. 8and 8b. cut the upper shoulder after the The first thing to do is cut the curve has been cut, as in Fig. 10. tenons ontheends ofthestretchers. (Again, used a hand saw for this) WELL-DEFINED SHOULDERS A The curve here 0p: jes before the leg. Getting acrsp shoulder Fine requires careful attention Whenapentiecurverectsany | "inte Dock ( sraightsecton,lkethecurveon | | Pirdioara gf the back support, you have t take: careto keep the shoulderline rsp, and square tothe piece, ‘To keep a clean shoulder line when smoothing out this curve, it ‘works well fo use a file perpendi- cular to the face of the piece (left drawing). Then a simple sanding Stick works well to remove the file marks (right drawing). i N\A) files 4 Woodsmith The curve on the back is just @ simple are. I aid it out using a piece of 14" hardbcard, as you can see in Fig. 8. ‘To hold the hardboard in position, I taped small, pointed blocks to the blank with carpet tape (one at the center and one at each end). But note that the curve does not stretch fom shoulder to shoul der — there's a % flat spot at each ce, a shown in Fig, 9a. e@ ‘When shaping the back suppert, cut the flat spots first and then worked on the curve, as in Fig, 10. ‘This way, il be easier to get a crispshoulder ine where the curve ends. But you'll stil want to take care when cleaning up this area, as described in the box on page 32. As forthe rest ofthe curve, Ilike touse part of the waste by attaching a piece of adhesive backed sardpeper toit, avin Fig. 10s. Now alltha’s left isto cut the rab- bets on the inside edges of the stretchers and rout the roundovers, asnoted in Figs. 8 and 88, Then the end assemblies, stretchers, and back eupportcan be glued together: BOTTOM £ CLEATS. Once the bench frame is assembled, its time to add 4 bottom for the storage compart: ‘ment, as in Fig. 11, Here, with allthe rails fish with the inside of the legs, allyou need to dois sorew some %" sauiare bottom eleats CH) fash with the lower rails and stretchers, as ‘shown in Fig. 112. Then cuta panel tomatch the opening, cut the dotéom (D froma piece ‘of 3" plywood, as in Fig. 11. And since the panel will be hidden inside the bench, it doesn't have to match the wood of the rest of the project. 1 simply set the panel in place. There Isn't any need to secure i: because it ‘will be trapped by the stops for the ‘beaded boards that are aided next. AEADED BOARDS. At this point, you're ready to add the beaded boards (J) to the bench frame, as shown in Figs. 12 and 13. Beaded boards are ‘a great way to crente a wide panel out having to glue up a lot of tomined tose boards — plus they're distinctive looking. And everything you need to know about making them can be found in the article on page 26. ‘To install the beaded boards, I decided to trap them in the frames with upper (K) and lower stops (L). ‘These ‘thick pieces are simply screwed in place, as you can see in Fig. 19a. But there's more to adding the beaded boards than this, The tick is getting the two out side pieces to look right (Fig. 12). You want the fields to be roughly the same on each ené, but as you can see in Fig. 12a, the outside pieces won't necessarily be the ‘Stops are ete same widih for this to happen, and ‘you may have to experiment a ‘Also, the bead boards shouldn't fit tight between the legs. [left about Ys" over the panel's entire length so the pieces can expand freely. When the two cutside pieces were trimmed, I decided to glue them agains the legs. This way, they can’t shift away from the loge and create gaps. (The other pieces will just “float"in the rabbet,) To add the rest of the beaded boards, start at the ‘ends and work towards the center. ‘With the last piece, you'll have to “tip” the panels up slightly to get the tongues and grooves to interlock. No.146 ‘Woodsnith840m panohinge— ute ‘pote HOPE: sexe ire eck ie Finish Betis Seat ‘The last pat of this bench toad is the seat, as shown in Fig. 1. First a seat support is added to the bench, @ Then the seatis tached o the sup port with a piano hinge. A couple cleats helpkeep this wide panel from warping. And two ld stays prevent from slamming shut, SENT SUPFORT. The seut support (4) is just ad. wide piece tha’s cut w ft tight between the backlog and then SD ESEEUONVEN sued tothe back as in Fi 1c. But a first, you'll want to rout a bullnose along the back edge. [di this atthe the panel won'trub onthe legs sits oversize shank hoes so the penel wll routertable wih aif"rouncover bit qpened and closed, asin Fig. la. stil beable toexyand and contract raised’) usingthefencetogidethe "Then afterrouling the bullaoseon Before the seats attached to the workpiece, as shown in Fig. 1b. Stat. When the supportis glued in place, youcan glue upa panelforthe seat (2). With this piece, youll want to allow fora ¥ie" gap at each end so the frontedge, you can add two cleats (0) to the bottom of the seat, as in Fig. 15. mitered the ends toremove the sharp points. And when attach- ing them to the id, you'l want to use beach, you'll wantto apply the finish, (brushed on several coats ofa clear top coat) Then you can add acouple lid stays to support the panel. (For sources, see page 35, ai LU ed Fora different look, you may want to paint the beaded panels (or the entire bench). Iso, check your localhiome center ortum Deryard for manufactured beaded board that's reprimed or painted white. I will probably be MDE instead of solid wood, anc itmay have lap joints instead of tongue: and groove, as in the right photo. To ft the panels into place, Istill rab- beted the face ofthe panels so the beads cendintherail To see how I dd this, checs ‘out the box on page 27. However if the panels are less than ¥4" thick, you'll need Woodsmith to add a spacer between the board and the stop, asin detail‘ atleft One last thing. ifthe color that you are painting the pan- elsis some thing other than white, its a good idea to paint the beaded boards before insalling them. That way you won't Lave “unpainted” white patches appear as the boards expand and contract seasonally No. 146MAIL JURCES ORDER SOURCES Eoerry Conse Cherry St Se Building the cherry con for the drawers, but you ‘TheJel Stain and the Zar ordered from sole won't set yo back might be able to find some cherry shinused tomake the following much for hardware and locally. The plastic stem Woodsmith’s cherry stain OmPanivs: supplies. The only items bumper glides (#28373) PW zeavalable at many paint, youll need area couple of andthe /" brass shelfsup- hardware, and home eel oe Counc, Ce ieesiaeere: soos stem bumper glides, anda bothordered from RocNer. igthatTusedispretyinex- If you cant find « local ey Pete ie ds few shelfsuppart pins. G86 16. Ifyou'd ike to ‘pensive. It ean be pur- retailer, you can call the Piao Hg id Tordered a pair of 14". try pocket holejoinery on chased fromseveralofthe phone numbers listed or Stops Si omg dia. bronzed “ring” knobs _ the face frame, Id recom- sources listed at right. Or check the web sites for *¥/Sumpor fis (@2W1L12)from Lee Valley mendaKregfig. The Rocket visit the Kreg Tool web site. dealer information. eee a a Woods Sore 800.835.5084 Storage Bench ee The storage bench just 48" long brass piano bead board to match. But pions tage, Ste takes a couple of common hinge (#19874) and a pair lfyouuseanctherwoodior Sper Pie hardware items. ordered (eft and right) of curved thebench (ak orpine) this 5. oa: company ‘fiction Ikd supports (#25519 might not be a problem. eee ‘& #2562 from Roetler but And ifyou'd lke to try _“tretotcom you might find both these thepainted paneling option, Kg Poet ew items available ocall. had to orderthe o' point just visityour local home 14, yang, Fig ie ROUTER BT. Youlll also cutting round-over bit improvement or lumber —_goo.a7i-si58 ~ need aspecial outer bit to (#6451) shown inthephoto store to see what's aveil-tevally.com es i make the beaded paneling. above from MECS. able, [found bothindividual Bonet wl, % (| Astanderd ypebealing bit neADED 0mRD. built the primed MDF “beaded Pottins. willonly cts bead alg soragebenchfomoshand hoards’ andehetsf i! SFr Me? eet atom coulistinlany ena Geaedreceny ics 200.599.0208 Craftsman Wall Shelf Online Extras aorsrorkng sm Besides wood serews, the Ifyou don't have internet receive and send a self only hardware youll need access,youcanhaveacopy dressed, stamped #10 NOOD.KOTE fortne Craftsman wall shelf of the Online Extras and envelope to: ae isa setof shelf hangers. I the cutting diagrams — Woodsnith No. 146 "isa ordered two sets of inter mailed to you.Justspecify Online Extras locking “exirethin fish Rockler, and they really which aces ud.cnting 0. Box 62 oodweteys Suey mounts” (#29975) from worked out wel. Aiagrams you'd like to. Dea Moines, IN 5080480 nesgersrm Knol, ig Poss Pua ine No. 146 ust, 307-844-1202 ‘wncom ‘Zar tana GY LY LED + Online Extras” Pans, Patterns, & More ‘Gver 100 Woodworking Tips Online + Visit Our Readers Project Fhote Gallery «+ Froect Plans You Can Download * Catalog of Protect Kits, Too Jigs, & Plans * Forums for Woodworking, Tool, & Clastieds + Links to Other Woodworking Sites © Ordlee Waadsmith & ShopNotes Beck Tses www.woodsmith.com Woodsmith 35set ois © < Cherry Console. Whether isthe flame and ae mel assembies or the pled frames om he craw Bs, you'll enjoy o variety of «woodworking techniques. Dail pans begin on page 6. A. Craftsman Wall Shelf. This Amerizan clase fonts same basic mortise «and tenon joinery al afew simple curves, so you can bud itn amos: no time. See page 8 for comple pins 4 ‘A Beaded-Panel Storage Bench. The bxaded panels n this bnch realy ga you attention. And cll yo need co make thems an inexpensive rower bi. And ta’ noc the only thing wigue about ths bench. The frae ir ul wth mors and tenons tet ar eo ofthe ordinary — but noch 19 make. Sep-y-step insuetons bein on page 8.CHERRY CONSOLE MATERIALS & SUPPLIES ‘A End Panels) laph-S%ex 216 N Front Center tle (1) 24x2-8% | AADwr Stops (@) Hex "fe Broh. B Front End Stiles @)—-%4x2%-31 © Bottom (1) 54x 1576 48% BB Adjustable Shelf (1) 1x 15Ie~47% € Back End Stiles (2) %4x2%-31 Bottom Cleat (1) tex%e-6 CCT!) 1x18-52 D Center End Stiles (2) 24x2!-21% Q frame Cleats(@) ax 1%2-15% —DDCoveModing 94x74 90rgh. E UpperEnd Rais (2) %4x34- 12% Frame Stretchers (4) 44x 12-48 F LonerEnd Rais) 24x3%2- 12% —S Outer Dr. Sprts.(4) Wx i%e- 15% + (24) #Ox 11k" Fh Woodscrews G Back Pands (6) Yphy~10%ex 21%he TF mner Dur Sprts. 2) Yax3s-15% + (B)#Bx 144" Fh Woodscrens H Back Stiles (2) %ex2-31U Dwr FrontsfBacks (4) ¥2x5%-21% + (3)¥8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews 1 Back Center Stiles (3) 24x 2%2- 2194 V Dwr Sides 8) Y%x5le-15 + (Plastic Stem Bumpers J. Uppertack Rall(1) 44x3%4-45! Wow Bottoms (2) Yepy.- 14¥2x 21% + (@) HB K 114" Rh Woodscrews K LowerBack Rail(1) Y4x3!2-45%e X Owe Trim hex We-100 rch. + (A) #8 Washers | LL Front stiles (2) Yax2-31 Y Dwr Guides (4) ux %- 14 + (4) 14" Spoon-style Shelf Supports IM Front Rails (3) Yax%o-48 2 Owe Runness(2) 1 x1%2- 1514 + (4) 114" x 1" "Ring” Knobs (Bronze) bc x5'-96° Chery B.3 B42) CUTTING DIAGRAM 0.52000. zi LTE 6" 96" Chery (a2 DAE) Yr x6" 96 Maple (4200.62) pe U Prane eth - oe icles ee ee i Tm Vo. v lv | We x 7H" -96" Cheer (48 BAFE) Te Plane 1 Ur thickness 3 z | RYN Wer s eiurtary corer ents i 796" Chor 6B) = ° 1 x710-96* chy (49 84F2) wane = 2A 0 ant = 6 « 12171460" chery @ Board © Bt Exh) zs z f aS ZY A A : < A A 17-6" Chery Boar @ 2 Bat Exch) 6 6 3B w w F 6 YeRbW 36" ery (2 Bart) FP HY tines 3 [eeiono ¢] verona Yi Ly | Pane 5 le NOTE The dower fonts oe STi te reste” Woodsmith No. M6 1 (©2003 August Home Publishing, All ight reserve‘oodsmeith No. 146 ONLINE E Woodsmith CRAFTSMAN WALL SHELF MATERIALS A Stiles) 1x 344-286 B Upper Rail (1) %4x 6%-31 Lower Rail(1) %x 7-31 D Sheves(2)4x8-36 E Uptights () %x2%4- 12% F Brackets (2) 16-744 ‘SUPPLIES + (14) #8.x 136" Fh Screws, *+ (2 px) Mounting Clips + (8) #0 x36" Fh Woodscrews + (8) #8 x2" Fh Woodscrews CUTTING DIAGRAM sre 7h a0" (25 Bd. Fe) A A ie x 75-68" To boards @ 2.580. Ft Each) € 3 Yy ay t "NOTE The * pleces wil need t bet ick Bux S*_ 74" ve boards @ 26 84 F Each) 1 ©2008 August Home Publishing, All ghts reservedOia Woodsmith STORAGE BENCH MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A Front l2gs(2)—1%4x2-23% K Upper Stops ¥2x 134- 130In.in B Back Legs (2) Vax 2p- 264 L LomerStops x1 130In in € End Rais @) x2e-17 Meat Suppor (1) Ux4-4B D Curved End Rails 2) %x5-17 IN Seat (1) Ux AShe- ATI E Upper Stretchers (2) 44x 196-50 © Seat Cleats 2) 6x Ve-12 F LowerStretchers (2) %4x272-50 G Back Support (1) 16-50 + (1) 48" Brass Piano Hinge w/Screws H Bottom Cleats 4x %4- 130. in, + @) Lid Stays (Left & Righ® w/Screws Bottom (1) May -17 x48 + (46) #8 x1” Fh Woodscrews 43 Beaded Boards (46) Ya x316-9 + 6) #8 x2" Fh Woodscrews CUTTING DIAGRAM ic Tt 96" (460. Fe) A a a . ye 7-96" (4680. Fe) fH 3 > > 41967 (To hoords 304. F: Each) rx Me" 60" 2.984. Ft) @ plywood -2448 usw nu 60" 2.984. Fe) e f Y ex Pt 60°29 Bd. ws. use 7-96" ws bosrds @ 4.6 Sq Ft Each) yr x MM 48" 233 Sq.Ft) 1 eas ZZ) Woodsmith No. 146 1 £2003 August Home Publishing. All ghts reservedJOINERY ......... Su he stub tenon and groove joint is quick and easy to ut Andtheentire joint can be made on the table saw. Itsmade by first cutting agroove on fone edge of each stile (the vertical pieces) and ral (the horizontal pieces). ‘These grooves held a center panel and short, “sub” tenons cut on the ends of just the ras. The depth of the groove (and the lengthof the tenon) can vary depending. ‘onthetype of panel you plan on using, A Yq\-deep groove works fine with a ply- ‘wood panel. But if the panel is solid ‘wood, you should use a 54'-deep groove. Why the difference? It has to do with how the frame assembled. I glue a plywood panel into the groove so it becomes a part of the joint. That way Tean get avay with a shorter tenon, Buta solidpanel can'tbe The first stepis to cut the grooves cen- glued. It has f0 “float” to allow for wood tered onthe frame pieces. movement. So deeper grooves (and When cutting a groove for a solid. Jongertenons) increase the giuing area. panel, I usually make its width / the But there's more to consider than thickness of the stock. For example: a just the depth of the grooves. ‘The '/fwale groove in 2/"-thick stock. But ‘grooves and tenons should aso be exn- fora plywood panel, I cut the groove to tered on the thickness of the work- match the thickness of the plywood. pieces. And the workpieces should all Cutting the groove so its centered ‘be the saime thickness. This way, there on the edge of a frame piece is easy. will only be two setups one for the Simply adusttherip ence on your table ‘grooves, and anotherforthe tenons, _sawso the blade cutsclose to thecenter Tenon & Groove (Fig. 1). You dor't needit to be perfect, — here's why. ‘Aer making your frst pass, just ip the board endforend and make a second cut (Fig. 2). Now even if your Diadeisnt centered, the groove willbe. To adjust the width of the groove, nudge the rip fence and make another ‘cat. Remember, you're cutting stock from both sides of the workpiece. So rake small adjustments and sneak up ‘onthe firal width ofthe groove. Blade Choices. A rip blade is a good choice for citing the grooves in the teil and stiles. The flot-topped teeth Produce a flat-bottomed greave Wooddsnith Downward Pressure. Hold the work piece firmly ageinst the teble as you ‘make the cut to prevent 2 “stepped” potter in the groove (© 20c2 August Home Publishing CompanyOnce the grooves are complete, the secoad stepis to cut tenons on the ends ofthe ras. Asingle blade will work. But it takes several passes to remove the ‘waste, And it leaves small ridges that make fitingthe tenon difficult. ‘That's why Llike using adado blade. It cuts each side of the tenon cleanly and it does tina single pass. To use adado blade, first bury it ia piece, equal amounts are cut from each an auxiliary fence (Fig. 3). Then adjust side of the rail (Figs. 5 and 5a). Make the ience toset thelength ofthe tenon your cuts on a test piece first, then ‘Now set the height of the blade to check for asnug fitin the groove. establish the thickness of the tenon. A If needed, adjust the height of the ‘quick way to get close isto set the blade blade alittle and make ancther practice ‘lush with the bottom edge of the cut. When the tenon fits tight in the roove on astile (Fig. 4). groove, you're ready to cut all the “To center the tenon on the work- tenonson the ral pieces. ‘Sand the Cheek. Sand the teron cheek to geta snug ftin the groove. Stay clear Of the shoulder to keep it sharp. Chamfer Tenon. Smal chamfers on the ends make it easier to fit a tenon into a ‘groove during assemby, Italo provides Some space for excess gle. idea to dry-assemble the til ls, and center panel to make sureeverything ftstogetner tight. ‘Nowe aloo a good time to sand the face of the center panel and the inside edges of the stiles and rails. These areas can be difficut to sand once the Gluing Up. A thin bead of glue spread evenly on each cheek of the tenon is al that’s needed when gluing up the joint. frame has been assembled. One brad deiven in the top rail will To assemble a frame with a solid keep a solid panel centered. Plywood panel, apply a thin bead of glue oneach panels can be glued inplace (Fig. 8). tenon check only (Fig. 6). Then damp Finelly, check that the frame is fat the nieces together (Pig. 7). spacer and square. Ifthe assembly ist flat, ry. under the doorwillkeep chmpingpres loosening the clamps a litle. If it isn't sure centered an the frame, ‘square, try repositioning the clamps. TRSEALLBRAD Fao * ARERR Clamping Pressure. Putting a spacer Seauring Panel. A soid pane! floats in under the workpiece aligns the joint the frame. Use a brad to keep it con- with the clamp jaw for even pressure. tered. A plywood panel can be glued in. Wooddsmith ©20C2 August Home Publishing Company