‘A Publication of August Home Publishing —_—_———_—Woodsmith No. 141, June, 2002 Publisher Donald B. Peschke_ Editor Terry J.Strohman Senior Editor Jon Garbison Assistant Faditor Brian MeCallum Contrib, Editor Vince Ancona Art Director Todd Lambirth Senior Mustrators David Kreyling Dick Ver Steg ‘Harlan Y. Clark Graphic Intern Jonathan Bike coerce Sea ia eae Seo ees ae ea Maal + baud Hoar Dino Doi Hie Ss ra eer doe Bt Cie CORPORATE SERVICES Ws Content Mrs Davi Begs Sue M. Mae » Wed Desgner Kava Rlaing + Prieta Deseliptnt Di: Nihal Sed» UR AvtKioo Kae Reventon Johoutn © Mad ‘om alo La Weber ‘wooDsMrH MAIL-ORDER opto ar Dab Dae +a Se Je + Steph ae at ate: Nay Deer cto : Nancy Downer 1 Get Sr Tam ete an ke yak Ail Dae kee ae im Harlan * Warehouse: Spi Carey. |SEORE 7 Tim Thelen» Se Sere Nar imien, Gey anh ie Vick vars sai ts emp Gt re eee: ees Sa om Eiecateati stot mths oa Wie Ween ew mac Pred int SA. LDN) ay COLUMN SAWDUST Ge= years ago 1 it lowvoligge outdoor light my house. [had visions of what a dra matic change outdoor lighting was ‘going to make to my yard. Asit turned out, each lamp put out a rather pitiful amount of ight. And as time went on, one or more of the lights always seemed to be out. Allin common automotivestyle bulb. all, 1was disappointed.So packed up With the hardware problems sort the lights and forgot about them. gam ed out, it was time to move on to ‘Then the other day, while clear the most interesting part of the ing out my garage, I ran across & project — building a wood fixture To be honest, I was just about to give up on the whole project when Chris Fitch, our project designer, ‘came up with a unique solution from fan unusual source, a company on the Internet that sold lighting supplies for They had just what we need a heavy-duty socket that held a that box of lights. It got to surround the light, me to thinking about out. AAs far as the construction door lighting. again. goes, it's pretty straight-for- But this time, rather ward Gust halflaps, darioes, buy new outdoor lighti and grooves). The only tricky tures, wanted to see ifit was possible partis that the pieces are fairly small, to make a set that was easy-tobuild, And since you'l probably want more relizble, and bright than one lantern, you'll be making ‘rom the start, we knew hardware several identical small. pieces, So was an important part in this project, we've come up with a few techniques, so that’s where we siarted, that let you cut these pieces quickly, ‘The first step was getting the right accurately and safely power source. That turned out to be Ifyou take a look at page 22, you fairly easy. We found a low-voltage _ can see the project we came up with. 1 transformer and all the wiring at a thine you'll agree it’s a project tha local home center. really shines — day and night. ‘The next step was finding a bulb and socket. Sounded simple enough. Butaltera frustrating search through home centers, hardware stores, and catalogs, we just couldn't find any- thing that looked like it would work. Woodsmith Readers’ Gallery Visit other Wondsmith subscribers’ workshops, and see photos ofthe projecis they've bul I's all online inthe new Readers’ Gallery on the Woodsiith web www. Woodsmith.com, We want you to be purt ofthe Readers’ Gallery!To submit photos of your favorite Woodernith projects or views of your shop, ‘ollow the instructions you'l fad a the Reader's Gallery. Woodsmith No. 141® Display Cabinet..... A Loox NS): CONTENTS Features Convertible Coffee Table .... This beaneful sable converts from a traditional coffee table that's at a comjortable height for dining or doing homework. The secret isa unique lft mechanism that’s bil into its base Outdoor Lanterns .... : 18 Here's a DIY project that will veally put your home (and your ‘woodworking skis) in a good light, And is ensy co make a whole set with ou tips for cutting muleple ports quicldy and accurately Dadoes and Grooves . las ener eee Cuta sloppy-fitting dado or groove? Never agam. Here are the secrets and strategies for dead-on accuracy — regardless of whether you're working with solid wood or plywood. ee Display your favorite collection or store your fine tools. Eicher ‘way, this cabinet is a great solution. Plus, there are several options so You can make its design the perfect fit for your home Storing Hand Tools ... ery inch of your tool cabinet? Here's how we cabinet for wse in the custom wol Folders we came up with w hang the tools Departments Tips & Techniques. Shop Notes . Sources ....... No. M41 Wooxdsmith fee 18 TeFROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS ‘Bandi saw is te safest method for esting round materals Name That Cord My garage shop only hes ‘wo outlets on the back of my bench. So added a ower strip toincvease the umber of usable outlets. Butit seems. like every power ‘ool After a recent plumbing project, discovered a way tostore pipe camps — with PYC pipe. I discovered that ifyou cut a1" pipe down the middle (litle off cen. ter), a%A" pipe clamp will ‘snap into the PVC pipe. Inspired by this discov- ery, I decided to make an inexpensive pipe clamp rack, as shown in the photo. AIL did was screw series of PVC pipe halves to aboart and then screw it to my shop wall, as you ‘can see in Fig. 2. Town has a black power cond. This makes ithard to figure out which cord to unplug when there are a bunch of tools plugged in. My solution was to sim- ply label the cords using a small piece of masking tape and 2 magic marker. Now Ican tell which cord belongs to what tool when Ineed to unplug it Kevin Hackion Via the nemet Woodsmith Clamp Storage CUTTING PVC. To cut the PVC pipe, [decided to use sy band saw. And the only trick is Keeping the round pipe from rotating as you cut it. But a quick, shop- ‘ade sled prevents this. SUD, As you can see in Fig. 1, this plywood sled is, a (wopiece, ‘Tshaped assembly that rides along the band saw’s fence. To secure the PVC pipe to the slecl, | just screwed it in place, as shown in Fig, 1a, (You can start off with an extratong pieve of PVC pipe and then cut it into short segments later) ‘You'll want to sneak up ‘on the final cut, testing the fitwith apipe clamp. Ifyou eat the pipe exaetlyinhalf, it won’ “grab” the clamp. On the other hand, if too much pipe is lett, you'll really have to push to get the clamp in place. But it shouldn't take more than ‘one or two passes before the pipe clamp “snaps” ‘easily into the PYC pipe. Michad Scie Lake Hopaung, NJ Piywood back By T The Ce ity if you have an original shop tip, we would Ake to hear from you and consider publishing your tip in one or more of our publications Just write down your tip and mail it to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Towa 50812. Please include your naive, address, und daytime phone ‘number in ease we have any questions. If you ‘would Ike, FAK it to us at 9152820741 or you can send us an email message at: wood smith @woodsmith com, We will pay up to $200 if we publish your tip. No. 141Quicker Panels on the Table Saw Instead of using an expen- sive, raise¢-panel router bit, make coved raised panels, atmy table sav. | clamp a straightedge at an angle to the blade and thea makea number of passes, as you ‘ean see in Fig, 2. The key to doing this safely is to make sure you're removing only 14¢! with each pass. But this ‘means you need to makea Jot of passes to get the cove 10 the right depth. And if you have a lot of panels to cut acovein, you «an end up spending a lot oftime atthe table saw. But there’s a shortcut you can take to safely eliminate some of these passes. Allyou need to do is make a bevel cut on the table saw to remove as ‘much of the waste as vou can before starting the ‘eove cuts, as you can see in Figs. 1 and La, To do this, I first draw the profile of the cove on the end of the workpiece, as shown in Fig, 1a. Then I angle the blade and adjust my fence to remove as much waste as possi ble. (Be sure to leave the layout lines.) With the bevel cut, you can set up the saw to cut the core, but a lot of the work has already been done, Kris Fader Saskatoon, Seshatchowan Whenever I've needed to tap a hole, it seemed that the tap and drill bit were never together. Plus I had to think about what size drillbit to use forthe tap. No. 141 But [ fixed all that with this little holder. Now the rill bit, tap, and die are ‘organized and in one spot. Béward Everion ‘Sadus, New York Saw Blade Storage usually mail out my saw blades to be sharpened, But always feared that the teeth could get chipped because of a shipping “mishap” Soto preventthis from heppening, made a couple saw blade holders. For a 10" saw blade, I started with a 12"square Piece of plywood. Then 1 used my hand-held router with a eirclecutting jig to make a recess (about Laminate Liner ‘Tomakeempiying my shop vacuum a little less of a ness, Iwanted to line the canister with a plastic bag, as shownin the drawingat right. But es soon as 1 turned the vacuum on, the plastic ag woul be sucked up into the filer. ‘As you can see, | soWved this with a scrap piece of plastic laminate. It keeps the bag in place yet sti slips out easily when the bageneeds to be changed. Cvois Sanaa Andover, Mesiachisrs Woodsmith ‘A Shave some time off making raised panels om the table save with this eb. deep) forthe blade to sit in, Note: Ifyou don't have Acircle-cuting ig, you can simply rout the recess freehand — it. doesn't hhave tobe a perfect circle Then to secure the blade to the holder, use a fender washer and screw, ss shown in the drawing. Now 1 don't worry bout chipped teeth. ‘Stee Besndole Cramoe, New Brasideaway Oey CONVERTIBLE COFFEE ‘TABLE Boonen Co ie A Aice ccnp ero) ele AMcELrC Mere WaT Mae CiRc TLLe a table that’s at a comfortable height for work, ding, or play. you know its secret, there's no way you'd have dlueas to e table 60 unique. ' the top. Slip your hands under the top and gently lit the panel will raise gracefilly to nearly dining table height, as shown in the inset photo at right. So whatst ‘outas an elegant coffee table converts into handy table that’s perfect for working, dining, ot playing games, allows the top fo change hei metal lift ide tho base. It's a complicated piece of rare, but youlll be surprised at how . ou ne rer and a handful of ilorder sources are listed ‘And I haven't even mentioned the storag coifee table also has four deep di ones on the bottom and two smaller ones on either side of the lif mechanism, Flusif youre not interested inthe convertible top, take a look at page 14 where we show yet. Thi ‘hwo goner Woodsmith tuble will raise easily to works es pron cm for storage the option of building this coffee table with a hi (No lifting hardware, but even more storage.) Either atlooking project that’s straightforward to build (more on that on page 8) No, 141Construction : Details Diet maeee 48°W x 27°D x 19H (Lowered) tenets tet iinernsiop sere idee ine eta hn ‘se she nore: Fors hinged terion ota “coffee table, See page 14 Idi. \ ‘nab \ t Fake drawer ‘wont cover ‘openin ‘in bad Yet chamfer — ® Hood style pull SIDE SECTION VIEW ute spacers psiten fe Imrechanim at NOTE Bottom a Soares overs ege of nla ‘ierpo 2618" Gnaotner inrarare | ‘tec on nore: End ajembly pages 19" Drawers joined ‘isa stub tenon “mscmmect “oaths pines ‘vets ane! ae Si MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A End fremeLees(4) 4% 17%- 17% M Cover Edging (2) Ux Ya-20 V1. Owe Btms. (2) Manly. - 18% x 20% B End Freme Rails (4) 9% 2%- 19% N Drawer Guides (4) YxV¥%e-2\ tz 2 _ Drawer Stops (4) Uxh-S € End Panels (2) Yaply. - 19% 10% © Base Molding UXI3H,- 13 \n ft AALift Spacers (2) Wax 2 = 1914) D Fontlegs(@) 24x 2%- 17 P Ecgng %x4-12in ft. BB Top Panel() x27 - 48, E UpperPanel(1) ply. 22x43 Q False Front Cleats %4x %-12in ft. CC Top Panel Cleats(2) 4x 3%4-19 F LowerPanel(1) —_44ph.- 22.43 Sm. Drawer Fronts (12) 4x 44a 57a G Lower Divider(1) Ysply -G%X2Z_S Sm, Dramer Backs (2) 14x47%-5% + (12) #8.x 174" Fh Woodscrens H Upper Dividers (2) ply 43x22 T Sm, Drawer Sides (4) 1ox4%- 20% + (€) #8 x214" Fh Woodscrews WD | Fk Panes @) Hoh. -4/2x26% U sm. Dwr. Bims (2) “anh -5%X20% + (1) Pop-Up Table ft Mecheném 4. Top Rails (2) 44x 1% 42¥2 V 1g, Drawer Fronts (4) “4x 6%- 1946. - (1) Nylon Glide Tape GO ft.) K BottomRals@) x 2%%-39% Wg. DrawerBacks(2) !2x6/a-19%% + (12) 1°-dia, Knobs wMachine Screws L Sin, Dw Covers @) 24ph.-7%4%20 X La, Drawer Sides (4) Y2x6/4=20% ~ (4) 314" Hood-Style Pulls wiScrews No. 141 Wordsmith 7 rrjase {In spite ofits special hartware, this project starts out like any other cof fee table — with the base. Tbegan ‘with the two end assembli inSeratc® Fig. 1) andleter connected them with eis couple piywood panels (Fig. 8). | as shown in Fig. 1. ‘The four end | frame lego (A) and four raile (B) ‘are cut to size from Sé-thick stock. (he end legsare narrower than the nalsfor aow, but when the fron‘ legs are added later, the legs and rails will appear to be the same width) With the frame pieves cut to Sze, the first thing todo to these pievesis, cut a centered groove along the inside edge ofeach, as shown in Fig. Ja, You'll want to sneak up on the width ofthis grcove so i'l hold a" plywood panel, and if you'd lke more on how to do this, you can refer to the article on page 24, ter the groove is cut, you can cut the stub tenons on the ends of the rails, These are simply sized to fit into the grooves you just eut. Note: There's « complete, stepby- step article on stub tenon and groove jpinery featured on our web Site, see the box at left The next step isto eut the taper = Beene thas the groove cut in i, the first Puig a suo tenon | thing [ did was plug the groove at | | end-groove tame? | the botiom. But because most of END IRANES. To build the two end ll ft assemblies, [ began with the frames, pelo | ie] } ‘You can download a is plug will be removed when the | | epson anice | eg is tapered, you don't have to worry if the plug sticks past (or stops short) of the end of the ley. What's important is that it lines up ‘with amark 314! from the end ofthe leg, as you can see in Fig 2 With the plug glued in place, you can lay out and cut the tapers, as || sawaoodemith cer Qf ‘emp pared mee BD 171 mS NOTE soe and ais ROT LE are ethic a Fordiveod Eup ViEW HM cut to ne + i pywood x O® END FRawe Les nore: -® Dadoes cut iter ord stembles ore glued 8B ons me ee detailed in Fig, 2.Then the YA ply- wood end panels (C) can be cut to fit inside the frame, and the end assemblies can be glued together. FRONT 1895, There are still some dadoes to cut across the end assem- blies, but these same dadoes will also be cut in the front legs (D), $01 ‘worked on them first (Fig. 1) ‘The first thing to do is taper the bottom of the legs just like you did with the end legs (Fig. 2 and margin ghvon'n margin Moonee” daca meer THOTE Keep taped Speirs fence Woodsmith, No, 14drawing). Then there's a 14"-deep rabbet to cut on the outside edge of each leg, as shown in Fig. 3. This leaves 2 tongue that will cover the edges of the end assemblies. Now you're ready to cut the Aeeloes for the plywood panels. The dado blade isset to match the | ness of $i" plywood, and to make sure the dadoes align, youll want to use the same fence setings for both the front legs and end assemblies. ‘When cuiting the dadoes on the front legs (Fig. 4 and left margin), youl need to use the auxiliary miter ‘gouge fence to support the piece. Butas you can see in Fig. 5, the endl assemblies are large enough 30 youll be able to use just the rip fence (ike a rip cub. Once the darloes are cut on the endl assemblies and front legs, they ‘can be glied together, as shown in Fig. 6, But in order for the two pan- els to fit without any problems (Fig. 8), it’s important that the dadoes line tp and each corner is formed perfectly souare. Fortunately, a pait of temporary spacers taces cate of this, (Miter the corners ofthe soac- crs so they won't end up glued into the assemblies) ‘When the glue has dried, there's one last step before you can begin ‘work on the panels. I used a hand- held router to chamfer the outside ‘corners of each end assembly, as Corners mitered 10 rover ging [p spicen to ssenbly Eng. speci, dadoes and isge square ‘Seohbes shown in Fig. 7. The idea is to set the bit so the chianfer matches the thickness of the tongue (Pig. 7a). ‘This softens the sharp outside corners and helps “hide” the joint line between the front and end leg, PANELS, ‘The {Wo panels that con- nect these end assemblies can be added now. The upper (B) and ‘Woodsmith Lower panels (F) both start out cut to the exact same size from 34" ply- ‘wood, asyou can see in Fig. 8below. Just make sure they'll it into the daxdoes in the end assemblies, ‘The only thing to do to these pan- ls is to cut a few dadoes, ‘These davdoes are all" deep and sized to hold 84 plywood, as indicated in Fig. 8a, Both panels get a centered dado on their inside faces, (Das will hold alower divider that creates the ‘openings forthe large drawers) ‘The upper panel also gets a cou- ple of dadoes cut in its upper face. ‘These will position and support the compartment that’s created for the tit mechanism later AASE ASSEMBLE. All that’s left now is to assemble the two panels between the end assemblies. Since the daudoes in the end assemblies auto- rmaically postion the panels, al you have to worry about is pulling everything tight. To do this, | used band camps, Butyou'll also want to make sure the legs on either side of each end assembly are pulled tight to the panels, and you may have to add a couple of clamps here to help.Base (continued) At this point, you've got the basic structure of the base put togetler. Now it’s time to create the deawor openings and the compartment for thelift mechanism (Fig. $)."Thenyou can begincleaning up the lnokof the base by adding different edging and trim pieces (igs, 10, 1, and 15). LOWER pivDER. ‘The first piece 1 added to the base was the lower divider (G) that ereates the two large drawer openings, as you can seein Fig 9. This %" plywood piece is simply cut to fit into the dadoes in the upper and lower panels. (My lower divider ended up 67/" tall) comrantnent, After the lower divider has been ged in place, you can work on the compartment for the lift hardware, as in Fig. 9. (This also creates the openings for the small drawers on the sides.) All you're doing here is building an open box with xpper dividers (H) and front and back panels (D. The false drawer fronts will be glued to the front and back panels.) ‘The dividers and panels aren't all the same height. The upper dividers are '4" Nore: oviders and panelsare se" plywood taller (wider) so they'll fit into the dadoes you've already cut in the upper panel. And when sizing these: ‘compartment pieces, you want to make sure that they all end up $A" below the top ofthe end assemblies, as indicated in Fig. 9a, This allows for a top rail that’s added next ‘The dividers and panels just butt together, so when they've been cut to size, they can be glued to the upper panel and to each other, eaonen a oa) oe wiechsn: 37° a a “UPPER : gee JOP & BOTTOM RAM, With the lift it’s time to dress [ started with the top (J) andl bottom rails (X), as shown, in Fig. 10, Even though these ¥/" thick pieces form the top and bot ‘tom of the drawer openings, they're ‘ized an oriented differently. When sizing the top rails, they should fit between the rails on the end assem- blies (42!4"). And the bottom rails fit between the front legs (9%"). Tp] eno view Aun) ssc tocover “ower panel i Zeal 10 Woodsmith No.1Its important that both rails end sap flush with the front legs (Figs. {Ga and 106). Foreach top rail, Thad to cut notches on the ends, as shown in Fig. 11. Sneak up on the ‘width of the notch first by adjusting the tip fence. The goal is to get the rail to ft between the front Jegs. When you have a good fit, sneak up on the height of the blade until the ral is flush with the faces of the legs. Each botiom rail is rabbeted soit will wrap around the lower panel, as in Fig. 12, Here the dado blade is buried in an auxiliary fence, and again, I snuck up on the width ofthe rabbet first. Once the rail covered the plywood edging, I raised the blade until the rail was flush with the faces ofthe front leas, When all the top and bottom rails fit lke they should, you can go ahead and glue them to the base. DRAWER COVERS. Next, I acded a cover to the top of the small drawer openings beside the lift compart- ‘ment, (You won't want to be able to see inside these drawers each time the top panel is lied.) ‘To do this, 1 made two oversized %A"splywood small drareer covers (L) with edg- ing (iM) glued to one edge, as in Fig, 13, And when cutting them to size, notice that they don't end up flush with the upper dividers —I allowed fora A overhang (Fig. 134) ei cae eee TROL Siood as 2 bnawer lee _\ FRONT SECTION VIEW. GUE. Before gluing the covers in place, Ladded four drawer guides () tothe inside of the base, as you can see in Fig. 13. These guides are ripped so they're flush with the edges of the frontlegs, asin Fig. 19a and 13b. (Later, you'll add nylon slide strips to center the drawers.) ASE MOLDING. After gluing the snuides and the small drawer covers fn place, I added some "thick ‘base melding (O), as shown in Fig. 15, This molding starts outas extra- Jonge blanks that are beveled on two edges: 27° bevel on the lower out side edge and a 14" chamfer on the upper, inside edge to remove the sharp corner, I mae both of these cis on the table saw, as you ean see in Fig, 14. (But the chamfer could just as easily be routed) ‘The molding is mitered so that ‘whee it's glued in place, i will over hhang the base 1/',as in Fig, 15a, Stterbevelsand 10 =f A No.1 ‘Woodsmith ulEdging & Drawers Atthis point, | focused my atten- tion on Ge drawers Fis, the drawer openings in the base are “dressed up” with strips of solid- wood edging, as shown in Fig. 16. ‘Then there are false drawer fronts to ‘add to the frontand back of the base (Figs. 17. and 18). And finally, you can build and fit the four drawers, as in shown in Fig. 19. TOGING, To begin, [covered the edges of the plywood by adding pieces of edging (P), as in Fig. 16. ‘You'll want to start with oversized blanks, planing them to match the thickness of the 3/"" plywood as closely as possible (usually less than 3" thick). Then the blanks can be ripped so they end up flush with the faces of the legs (about 1" thick), Now you can begin cutting the eng into sis To At into the openings in the front and beck of the case (Fig, 16). | started with the Jong, horizontal strip that covers the upper panel, Clamping these strips isn't a problem. With no back, the clamps will reach through the open- ‘ings. But work carefully here so the strips align with the plywood edges. ‘Atcethe long sp ade, you can ai the short vertical sts, Wilh the abt stripe ontop) you ist covering the edging — i ore ‘parent an Et cnc % "vena edging signe ites edge you'realso creating the openings for the small falbe fronts (Fig. 168) To do this, the two edging strips nearest the ends cover the plywood edges of the upper dividers, as in Fig. 16a, (These can be clamped, but the others will need to beheld in place until the glue sets) The center strip lines up with the edging on the lower divider below it, And the remaining two pieces are centered between these edaing strips CLEATS FOR FALSE FRONTS. WWith the edging strips in place, you can begin work on the false fronts (Fig. 18). nore: sobs ond puts: ‘ded afer ish Toppiied to project ‘These are really just extra drawer fronts that cover the four small “openings” in front of the base and all the openingsin back (though up to now the front and back of the base have been identical). But before you can cut the fronts to size, the first step is to add some cleats to the drawer openings in back of the base, as you can see in Fig. 17. These cleats simply form a ‘mounting frame you can attach the false fronts to (Fig. 170). To do this, I cut 3" x ¥/' false front cleats (Q) to fit in the draweropenings in back of the base. And when gluing them in place, the important thing is that they consis: tenily st back 1f" (Fig, 17a). FALSE FRONTS, Now all the false fronts can be eut to fit into their ‘openings, 2s shown in Fig. 18. Butas Talready mentioned, the false fronts are identical to the drawer fronts, s0 I simply cut twelve small drawer fronts (and four large fronts (V) to fit in the openings in the base with a %s" gap on each side. (Even though the openings should all be identical, isa good ideato measure each one justto be sale) Refore you can glue the false fronts into place, there are a couple of things te do to them. Firs, I rout ed a chamfer around the face of each, as indicated in Fig. 18a. Next, [added the machine serews that wil hold the knobs on the smal drawer false fronts, This meant drilling counterbored mounting holes and epoxying the screws in place (Fig. 182). Note: Because these screws are in counterbores, they may need to be cut down.so the knobs wil i tight Deawens. With the fase fronts in place, you ean begin to build the ‘rawers, as shown in Fig, 19, The fronts have already been cut to size, s0 Imate the Iff-thick maple backs (S, W) and sides (7; X) next. To join these pieces, I used my router and a hal-blind dovetail ji (There's more on this on our web site, as described the box aight) Then after routing the dovetails, 1 uta groave forthe 1" plywood bot toms (U, Y),asin Fig. 19b, Finally, chamfered the front faces (Fig. 19a) and glued the drawers together. But 214 hood eyle pul 9 coamier fer bottom eT pp acting. eran ae ie Dovetats dapon oath ete SIDE SECTION view it’s best to wait on the knobs and pulls until alter the finish is applied OUDE STRIPS, As Ive already m tioned, the fronts were sized to allow "Aa" aps on each sie. To keep the dravers centered in their openings and allow them to slide smoothly, 1 added strips of nylon glide tape to the openings, as shown in Fig. 20. = Men ctor crateer det slide smooth Woodsmith STOPS. The drawers are designed {o stand proud of the base ¥/", as in Fig. 19c. So 1 intentionally built them short and then added drawer stops (2) to the back of the base, a8 you can seein Figs. 19 and 19c. This way, the stops can be sized to make sure the fronts were positioned ‘exactly where Iwanted them. BA i takes bus pyotessinal-ncking drawers quicKy is a common half-bind dovetal router fg and a few pointers ‘llth inforration & eureniy avaiable bbe dovinieaded on ur wed sie asodemthcom 8Top Panel All that’s left to complete the coffee table ist acdtatop panel andalit mechanism. Of course, this project wouldnt look any di ferentif the top didn if. Plus, you Ihave even more space for storage in the compartment. (For more on this ‘option, exe the box below.) A With very tie UFT SPAciRS, Before you can add effort, the springs the top pane, the first thing to do is inthe life mechan- add a couple of lift spacers (AA) to ismraise the op the inside of the compartment, as panel up to work- you ean see in Fig. 21. The reason ing height, for this is simple, ‘These spacers position the lift mechanism at the rigt height so the top can close tightagainstthe base, Note, though, that to end up with 1!4!thick spac cr, youll need to glue two 3/"thick pieves together, as in Fig, 21a, After cutting the lift spacers to size, they can be installed in the ‘compartment. I set mine inside and set the lit mechanism on top just to doubleccheck that they were pos tioned correctly. Then I drilled two ‘countersunk pilot holes in each and ‘glued and screwed the spacers in pave, asshown in Figs.21aand 21, Since the lit mechanism is spring loaded to remain in the “up” po tion, I didn’t install it until ater the top was ready to be added i | G® _ummetransn } TOF PANEL. As you ean sec in Fig. 2, the top panel (BB) isa large, 3p" Ahick, solidwood panel that 1 slued up from five vide boards. Atthis stage in the project, there's areal tendency to hurry up and get itdone. But this is the most notice able part ofthis project, so you want to take extra car that it looks good. Shuffle the boards around and tip them over unt you've got the best Cae Converting the coffee table to the hinged version shown hereisreally no ‘rouble, instead ofa it mechanism (and spacers), you'l need nomortise hinges. andl aJength of chain, asin the drawing. ‘To mount the hinges, I screwed them to the base and then set the top. in place. When the top is centered, you can mark the ‘postion of the hinges. Also, youlll want to cut the chain to length so the top Jeans back about 10°. Use 40mg ‘aon ating ‘hinges to bare looking panel. Then you can glue it together and sand or plane it at Note: With a large panel, I some: times use splines or biseuits to help keep the boards aligned — especial Iy fone doesn't want to ly fat. But this is up to you, The important ings to end up witha lat pane. TOP PANEL CLEATS. Of course, a solich ‘wood panel is going to expand and contract, and one this lage is bound Woodsmithto cup alitle. So I designed the top to have two %A"thick cleats (CC) to hold it at, as in Fig, 22 Because of the amount of clear- ance inside the base, the cleats are r oriented with their faces (not their edges) against the panel. But betore Maan ges) against the pane. But before ane Teould add the cleus, the panel ai ‘cupped, so Thad to modify the cleats to pull the panel flat. But more on that on page 16. OTE, FINSH, When the cleats have been faurees are added and the panel is fat, all the st 99 parts of the table are complete. So is good time to apply a finish. Vd recommend several coats of a va ish or polyurethane for protection. And isa good idea to apply one or ‘wo conts on the bottom face of the ‘top panel so the two faces are more likely to expand and contract at the ‘same rate (and keep the panel flat), INSTALUNG LIFT MECHANISM, Now its time to mount the lift mechanism ‘and top panel to the base. First, the mechanism is screwed to the base, (oriented the mechanism to open the same “direction” as the draw- ‘ers) Then the top can be set on the mechanism. You'll want to do some Finally, you'll want to lose the top underside of the panel (inside the careful measuring here to make panel to make sure it stays shut, “frame” of the lift mechanism), as sure the panel is centered. When it Mine wanted to it back offthe base shown in Fig, 22c. And this added 4s, you can mark the pilot hole oce- an inch or so. To solve this, simply _ weight scemed to da the trick — the fionsand serew the top in place, _sereweda scrap piece of MDF to the _ lid closed tightagainst the base. countenvelght “op frrocdea ‘roid panel down | ul CUTTING DIAGRAM 161-72" chery Four Boards @ 3.25 Ft Each) 4 46°48" Chery Prvoodt Sam a WH) y Eas ro y Ze Lid Li Me Li i is 5/72" Cherry Ce Boars 0 2.75 Bd. Ft. Fach) x Zz it 15". 22" Cherry (Two Boards © 2.5 Od. F. Fach) ° Eee” 3 a LLM 16" "= 69" Chery Fie Boars @ 27 Bach Ye 0 x60 -60" Maple 7 54. FU) w w 5 Vat x65 ~48" Maple (Four Boards @ 22 Sq. Each) x r Wy No.1) Woodsmith 16A To allow my hand save to slide smoothly inthis miter “box,” 1 applied a ile wax to cach face Groove for less stop o NOTE: leat “Groove a slightly 1 Sold-wood cleats help hold the cofee table top flac, but tho cleats hore reeded alitle cadjsement to work properly. 6 Tips FROM OUR SHOP Mitering Glass Stop ‘When mitering glass stop, miter“box” sized forsmall, thetrickistoworkwith the strips. As you can see in fragile 4x 'sripssafely. Fig. 1, this is just a piece So when itwas timeto cut with a groove cut init to thestop forthe glass doors hold the glass stop blanks. onthe display cabinet (page (The stops shouldn't ft OF ca critical strips in place, I gripped 28), I decided to leave my the groove tight, or you'll part of mal jig is them with my fingers. But table saw turned off and have ahard timeadiusting accurately cutting the I found thatthe saw tend: ler the pieces with a them from sidetoside.) kerfs that guide the hand ed to bind in the kerk. So hand sav, as shownin the This miter “bax” is glued saw. And todo this,Tused for a quick solution, 1 photo atright, toacleat so the T'shaped my combination square, rubbed a little wax on the IMMER 60x 116. To do this jig can be clamped into a 2sshown in Fig 2 blade, as in the margin accurately, Imaile a quick bench vise, ‘Then to hold the small photo atiett. wider than gles 0p Flat Panels Whenyoureaddingalange gluing it back together, 1 solidwood panel that isnt decided to add the cleats going toget screwed down to see if they would pull it toa ase, you can expect flat anyway, Note: Usually, some problems, The air when adding cleats, Il set insideisn'tgoing to change their edges against the itsmoisture content atthe face of the panel, which is samerateasthe stronger than the “face” air outside, anil Cleats shown in the photo before too long, at right. But with this pro} the panel will cup. So ect, there wasn't enough ‘when designingthe coffee clearance for the cleats to tableon page 6, [planned to be oriented on edge. add cleats under the top The cleats di help, but panel tohelp keep it lat. the panel was still eupped Unfortunately, my top noticeably. So { decided to ancl cupped before [had try one more trick. 1 litleoffeachendandthen the rick. The panel stil i 4 chance to attach the “bowed” the cleats in the screwing thecleat back to isn’t perfectly lat, but you cleats. However, instead of opposite direction as the the panel, as in the draw- woulda't notice it unless ‘going tothe trouble ofrip- cup in the panel. This is ing and detail above. sou placed a straightedge ping the panel apart and just a matter of shaving 2 The “bowed” cleats did on the panel. BY Ends of cleat tapered slgnty Woodsmith No 141Bridle Joint The display cabineton page A B99 door frames with grooves on their inside edges to hold a panel. As you can see in the upper Dhoto at right, abridlejoint (oropen mortise and tenon) is good choice for this type of frame, It’s plenty strong hold a glass panel, and the whole process can be done on the table saw. Allyou need is the simple sig shown in the box below. ‘Wout want io build the} before you get started.) ‘GROOVE. The frst step to building the frames is to make a centered groove ‘on each piece, asin Fig. 1 “Technically, this isnt part of the join, but you'l use same fence setting to cat the mortise next, To cut the groove, I rmadte 2 couple passes over a regular blade. Flipping (MY thepiccesbetween passes ‘auxfomatically centers the groove, And you'll want to saeale up on the position of the fence until the grooves are V7 wide, NORTE. Now you can ‘aut the mortises in the stile pieces, as in Fig. 2 ‘You dont want to change the fence forthis step. The mortises should align with A This push block ets yous cu the mortises without having to reset the fence No. Hal the grooves. But you will need to raise the blade to set the depth of the mor- tises, as indicated in the lower margin photo. This way, the mortise’s depth will automatically match the width of the tenon, Cutting the mortises is, the same twostep process, you sed when cutting the grooves. Only this time, the workpieces will be cut standing on end (support= ed by the jig) TENON, All that’s left now is to cut a tenon to fit the mortise, AS you can see in Awl Tneededa simple push block to support the stiles while the ‘mortises were being cut. Plus, wanted touse the same fence ‘setting as the groove setup so the mortises would align with ‘the grooves, This push block doesthe rick. ltsbody matches, the siile’s thickness (7"), and the hardboard arm extends ‘ast the fontofthe body to pre. ‘vent the piece from tipping as. . __itspushed acrossthe blade, Woedsmith Fig. 3, laid the rails down for this step, making mul- tiple passes over a dado blade, Set the fence so the tenon matches the width, of the stiles, Then sneak ‘up on the height of the lade until the tenon fits ‘snugiin the mortise. A. Unitke a realiional rmotise and tenon, bridle joint cam be cut completely on the able saw. 1A Toset the lade atthe right eight forthe monte of the bridle joint, raise ieunti i aligns withthe ‘groove in one of the ral pieces prOUTDOOR Here’s an outdoor lighting project that Sree RT mee ea erernre ec Grins Reece rnc) Dare ToC ee Decne re Re d, consisting mostly andl dadoes, ie UNO) Kee i 28 Woodsmith Joven ent ine mat pace, here's a project that will take up very litle of either. [t's a compact cabinet that hugs the wall while itshows off (and protects) your display iten ‘And nearly every design detail of this ccabinetwas chosen to makeitas quick to build as possible. For instance, the case is just two sides that are connected with a top, bottom and shelf that are all identical And the dadoes used to join these pieces couldn't get much easier, or the inside story on cutting dadoes, refer to the article on paxe 24) ven the doors have been stream- lined to be as easy to build 2s possible. Instead of a traditional mortise and tenon joint, 1 built these with a bridle joint, which has the advantage of being ‘cat entirely on the table saw. (This is described in detailon page 17.) Because this cabinet takes up very litle wall space, itl work in almost any room in your house, induding my per~ sonal favorite: the shop. And as you ccan see in the photo below, this meant making a few minor changes.j Doors are helt shut Worn double bal catches {2109 ane bottom of case —— 14° hanging cleat provides pace to selon cabinet to wall Top, bottom arc Reser a ‘Papped i daoes ~~ ; woiland pd Details OVERALL BMENSIONS: Bow an ASEH 2x | prewen ree i ~ ~S pvairer dtider 4” NV Seeace a wists porrom rawrersbuit —ORAWER — za aweeng Soe hoa Antigum bas Tabbet ont ‘are chamfered Set ad ‘top end bottom eas Spear CUTTING DIAGRAM sired > aie sSentiea { \ Paes jiag nore: at onde yoine Nhe sources memaeey seiiedcn roe A Sides (2) HBxS-31 1 ar Fris.Bks, (4) Y2x375-10'%6 * (2) %&"-Thick Glass (8%6” x 217") ; B Top/Btm/Fived Shelf (3) 44x5)p-23 J Drawer Sides (4) Yox37ic- Ale» (1 pka,) %6"-Lona Brads C Drawer Dwider(1) —_-%x5-3/2 K Drawer Btms.(2) Yaph.-4%ex 10% + (2 pr) 2” x 14" Hinges w'Screws @ D Hanging Cleat (1) 4x 2%-23% Lb Drawer Stops (2) Ya x%s-10% + (2) Ant. Brass Square-Piate Ring Pulls E Back (1 Yap - 23x 22% + (8) #8 x 114" Fh Woodscrews + (2) Ant. Brass Vertical-Pate Ring Puls F Door Stiles (4) 74-24% + (4) %4"-dia, Wood Plugs *+ (4) Double Ball Catches wscrews G Door Rails (4) 34% 1%e- 11545 + (2) Wy -Thick Glass (375" x 2214") “+Note: The supolies listed above are for the H Glass Stop (6) Yaxe- 22 rch. + (8) L-Shaped Shelf Supports ‘abinet design with the alass-panelec doors.A Though this case has some torque foasaes, its bul twith basic dado constuction. For more on cutting dadoes and grooves, se the ‘article on page 24 20 Case The basic case ofthis dis Day cabinet squite simple — just a pair of sides that ‘rapa top bottom an asin- se, xed shelf, asyou can see in Fig. 1. Later, you'll ad a vertical civider to ore ate the drawer openings, a cleat for hanging the cab net, and a plywood back, But for now, you can focus ‘om the basic case pieces. S108, 1%, BOTTOM & SHEL. ‘Thefirst thing to do fs cut the sides (A) and the top, bottom and shelf (B) to size from hick stock, (Ichose to build this eabinet in cherry, butit would also look great in other ‘woods like oak or maple) Before you rip the top, bottom and shelf to width, note that they're slightly wider than the sides so they will stand 14! proud, as shown in the photo at left and Fig. 1b. The sides require the most works, so I started with them. First, cut a chamfer on both ene, a9 shown in Fig. 2 This is afanly deep chamfer, so instead of cutting it in multiple passes wth arouterbit, cut itonthe table saw using an auxiliary miter auge fence to support the piece, You can leave the auxiliary fence inplace while you cut the dadoes to hold the top, bottom, and shelf, as shown in Figs. 1a and 3. And to rmakesure the dadoes ine up across NOTE: AI axe pieces re ie solid wood from each other, you'l want to cither adi a stop to the end of the auxiliary fence or use the rip fence asastop, as 1did in Fig. 3. Youcan do this because the euts don't gal the way through, so there are no waste piezes to kick back at you.) The last thing to do on the side pieces is drill the series of Yleep holes for the Lshaped shelf sup- ports that will hold the glass shelves. Before the case can be assem bled, you'll need to do a file work on the top, bottom and shelf. First, the front edge of each needs a "4a! chamfer, as indicated in Fig. 1b. ‘Thenin the shelfand bottom pieces, youll want to drill ie two counter: bored shanlc holes that will hold the ‘Woodsmithdrawer divider. (It would be a bit awkward to do this after assembly) Gluing this case together isa’t hard, Just remember the top, bot tom and shelf stand proudin front of the case and are fish in back, Aer the glue on the esse is dry, the next thing to do is rout the rab- bet for the 14" plywood back panel AAs you can see in Figs. 4 and 4a, 1 did this with a hand-held router, tising scrap blocks to help support the router base so it wouldn't tip. ‘Then T came back and cleaned up the corners witha chisel (Fig. 4b). DRAWER DWDER, Before you cut the back to size, there are two other pieces to make. First [cut a drawer divider (C) to ft between the shelf and bottom, as shown in Fig. 5. But note thatthe front ofthe diviler sets back 14, just like the sides (Fig. 5a). Alter screwing the dividerin place ig. 5a), the screws can be covered with 34"-dia. wood plugs. (Pd recom ‘mend you use face grain plugs here 0 they'l be less noticeable) HANGING CLEAT. The next piece 1 ackled was a hanging cleat (D), a8 you can seo in Fig, 5. This wey, when hanging the cabinet on the wall later, [had a "thick solid- wood piece to screw through, Instead of the 1" plywood back. Making the cleat is a two-step process. Its cut to fit between the rabbets forthe back, but to get itto fitflush with the back, youll need to ctita rabbet around three edges of its front face, as shown in Figs. Sb and 6, The second step is just cut- thig another rabbet — this time, to — gies se, ae ies ts anatch therabbets in the ease forthe back, as you can seein Fig 7. acl, When the cleat has been ‘ued in place, you can eut the ply wood back (2) to size and glue it into the rabbet (Fig. 5b). shaped support lf ach cut ate Shean ee GUASS SHELVES, You really. don't need to order the glass for the shelves until you order the giass for the doors later. But IM just mention here that I used Ythick glass that had polished, “penciFstyle” edges. Z Sa A "Ge ‘Dado. i Re oS a ei) exo wew in| cytrabbel to hoe - Fatte| St pimood tack Bsa" Nore : Nace ca ee te ‘| CES) ‘WoodamithDoors _Atthis pong the casofeready forthe doors, and whether you build them: with glass or wood panels, the pro- cedure starts out the same. The door srames ae bultwith a grcoved bridle joint, But more on thatin a minute. CUTTOSIZE. Before cutting the door stiles (F) and rails (G) to sie (Fig. 8), measure your cae sothe door pieces canbe ct fit its opening. The sles are sized so there willbe a! gepat the top and bottom of each door. The rails are abit more work, but least with a bridle joint, they're the full width ofthe door. Here, allowed for «Ys gapon the sides ofthe case but no gap between the two doors. (Later, youll trim the elges where the doors ‘meet, as in Fig. 8b.) IDLEJOWT, With the nieces cut to ‘ouire ready to cut the brie joint, as shown in Fig. 82. I eame up with 2 quick jg Ghown in the margin photo) that elininates one of the ‘setups. And I've described the jig (and how to cut the idle joint) on page 17 DOOR PANELS. If you're br ig the doors with wood pane's, youl need tomake them before you glue up the frame, see box next page. For glass doors, you can glue up the frames now, (Later, youll rout a rabbet for A Thisjig ts 300 cut the open the glass to it into.) mortises without HINGE MoRTIstS. With the door having t adjust frames glued up, lcutthe mortises for thefence. For the hinges next, as shown in Fig. 8. devals, en ‘This can be doneat the table saw and to page 17. I sized the mortises to match the full depth ofthe hinge barrel, minus Ya! suutary fence nore: wings door only not case) | ‘SECTION VIEW ratte vt ae ‘NOTE: For hardvare Sources, see page 38 i pape er BS NOTE: for “ more on cutting = Bridle joing sedge 1? Shoutaer wil] a. “Levemoved cohol gloss for the gap. (The hinges are simply screwed to the inside of the ease.) Now vou can rout the back edges of the doors to hold the glass, sin Fig. 10. Tused 1!" glass siop (H) to mount the glass (Fig. 10b). And on pagge 16, there’s a “miter box" I used {o cut the stops to length. (But you dont want to-add the glass until the fini as been applied tothe project) HANG DooRS. At this point, the doors can be hung in the case. Then you ‘can trim their inside edges to create the Ae" gap (Fig. 8a) and add the pails rans Fasten ‘Sserbied catch foacor mn Gappet tape’ Woodsmithand catches. The double ball catches Tused ean't be adjusted after they're serewed in place, so for an accurate installation, I positioned them with carpet tape, as described in Fig, 11 DRAWERS All that’s left now isto build the two small drawers, as shown in Fig, 12.1 sized the Ifl-thick fronts (1) and backs (1) so the drawers would be Sauare ring pull itn square plate NOTE: Drawer front, ‘back, al sider ore ethic stock ® bRawer sorroM (i py) Yo! smaller than the openings in height and width. And the sides (1) are sized so the drawers would stop Yi! short of the back of the case. LOGAING RABBIT, ‘To create a strong drawer withoutalot offs, [decided to use alocking rabbet joint Fig. 123). Itlookss more complicated than it realy is, In fact it can be eatin three quick steps on the table saw. First, a centered groove is cut on theends ofthe front and back pieces, as shown in Fig. 13, The key here is that the height of the blade matches the thickness of the drawer side Next, I trimmed the inside face of s shown in Fig. 14 step is to cut dadoes on the siles (Fig. 18). Just position the dadoes to line up with the tongues cut inthe fronts and backs (Fig, 12a), BOTTOM, Now each drawer piece is ready fora groove that will hold the 12b. Then when the bottoms are cut to size, you can glue the drawers together and add the pulls STOP. Al ats left now istocttwo atopa (L) for the back of the case, They’resized so the drawer will end up dust with the sides of the cas the front and back pieces to create a 1/" plywood botiom (K), as in Fig. (Mine were 14" wide) 1 pales ees ig cove © era ne en ct Sietingn any Thickness of ete maces (OSE ; e ahOl Face | i] : l | 1 1 a eg For an elegant storage cabinet, youcanbiilklthe deorswith wood E* Aise, @ panels instead of glass. (You can ——— f/ also ald wood shelvesinside,) DN on SS Bach panel is sized so itl tin by pace ae gop the grooveswhten the coris glued Reap ce ere aA together (Be sure tallow a small gapon each sie sa the pane! can expand and contract) To create |} the tongue, all you need to dois rabbet each face, see drawing. ‘And when assembling the frame and pane}, eemember not to gkse the pane into the frame. No. Mal Woodsmit 33STORING HAND TOOLS | he display cabinet on page 28is sized just right to make a great tool cabinet for those special hand tools you wantto keep accessible — and protected. Of course, whether you build a “fine” cabinet (with cherry and ash, ike the onehere) or choose Jossexpensive wood is up to you Either way, there are a few things to keep in mind as you eadapting hiscabinet for toolstorage. ‘wooDaNes, To SHELF DETAIL rmakethe best use me ofthe spaceinside Front ofshol elaved the cabinet, 1 oe cetance ‘eFgrtcok on door decided to build ; the doors with es solidewood panels i a instead of glass. a “This way, I eould aunts late! | storetcoisonithe doors, as well as ‘onthe shelves (and back) Butt do this, you have to make sure there will be enough. clearance inside the cabinet. This means cutting shallow recesses in the front edges ofthe shelves or cutting narrower shelves {and changing the locations of the holes for the shelf pins), asin the drawing above. ‘ORGANIZING TOOLS. In order to get the most use out of the doors, I decided to spend a litle time planning which tools would work. best where. To do ths, {simply laid the eab- ‘Scratch awl. An open hole tas the handle of this av, And to protect your hands (and other 1608) the point si na bes. a4 Hand saw. A kerf can de used to protect the teeth of a hand ‘saw. Tosupport the saw lacked a sinple base, see main photo. inet on its back with the doors propped open. This lets you shuffle the tools around easily until you have the most efficient layout. Then after you have chosen which tools will go where, you can begin making some custom tool holders. TOOL HOLDERS. It’s not ‘hari to design and build your own custom tool holders. The goalisto get them to hang securely so they don't fall (or swing) whenever the door is opened. At the same time, you want themas easy to liftoff and set back on as possible. Plus, if there are sharp edges, like the teeth on a hand saw or thepointofan awl, you wantto be sure that other tools (and your hands) are protected. ‘There are a number of ways to accom: plish this, as you can seein the photos below. ‘Simple keris are great for hoking the blades of saws, squares, and rulers. For avis, cchisels, and files, Idrill counterbored holes that trap the handles and then cut slots for ‘easy access, And for marking ganges and Dock planes, you can make a small shelf platform, Here, youll want to add small cleats: Woodsmith ‘Marking gauge. For thisrrark- ‘ing gauge, anotched block suo- rrorts the head, and a small lip ‘Keeps the tool from siding off tothe edgessothe took wont slide offasthe doorisopened and closed. ‘When youtre making these small holders, itsbest to doas much workas you can with the pieces oversized. Thiskeepsyour ands afar sway from the blade as possible. “The photos below show justa few of the tool holder ideas we eame up with for oar ‘aint. To see some more ideas, goto the Online Extras section on our web sit ‘wns Woodsmith.com, 1 Le aman = Combination square. A srrall angled block witha shallow kert ‘sallyounsedto capture a com: bination square, No.1MAIL JURCES tite SOURCES hardware may be ordered from CONVERTIBLE COFFEE TABLE = “Marston ‘Tobuildthe convertible coffeetable, Hardware” col youllneed the “popuptablemecha- lection from isin,” shown in the photo at right. Restoration Hardware, | Thestedl, springloatedframeis vail. used the "dia, knobs able from two sources: Rockler —(partno, 24030960) for the ae Woedworing (at no. 95400 and sal ravers atthe oe Von Dyer Gata MANOA tie ic ied eae Get a “3S. phone numbers and web addresses 24090958) for the large drawers. ‘NO-MORTISE HINGES & CHAIN. If you Squaw Prd, for these sources are listed at right. Besides the knobs and pulls, the decide to build the coffee table Cabinet hardhewry, KNOBS & PULLS. In addition to the onlyother hardware that you'll need —_ without the table mechanism, you'll aon Harare table mechanism, you will alsoneed to get ahold of (other than wood- needapalr of nomortise hinges and tration Har quite a few knobs and pulls for the screws) isa roll of nylon glide tape, a short chain. These are probably wynreworat drawers (and fase fronts) on the front available from woodworking stores available locally, but you can also _hardware.com and back of the base. I chose the and the sources listed at right, crderthemffomthesources aright, ie Rocke Woodworking DISPLAY CABINET common, and if you can't find them right). The square plate pulls (part 800.270.4441 For the small display cabinet on page _ locally, you can order these or simi- no. 01A52.20) went on the drawers, "ww-Torkver.com 28 there's quite a bitof hardware, lar items from the sourees at right The vertical ring pulls (part no. (Mamebanin ‘ordered the glass from a local giass (listed as "Cabinet hardware”). 01A52.61) were used on the doors. . shop after the door frames had been SQUARE-RING PULLS. The “Pierced You can also order the 2" x 134" built The shelf supports, double ball Rectangular Plate Hardware” was antique brass hinges from Le Valley e catches, and wood plugs are all fairly ordered from Lee Valley (see list at (part no. 0 07). Meee ‘SoOSsSHI2I4 vv com Tale echonan, Cabinet hart, Noe ert hinge & hn ‘OUTDOOR LANTERNS ‘onetlampholder (part no. 4345-306), ‘The electrical hardware was the key ‘The other supplies will beavailable component to the outdoor lanterns locally. The transformer, outdoor Woodhorkers ‘npage 18, sol foundallthe supplies cable, wire nuts, aylon bushings acdware re jown in photo at right), and 800.383.0190 Ineecedbefore building thelanterns. (sh photo at right), and anger * UGHT SOCKET. The item that'll bethe Plexiglas can all be found at a local a. a= en hardest to find willbe the lightsocket. hardware store orhome center: f martve hinge chain We purchased ours from Shore BUl8. Yourhartiware store may not Holders. (You can call them at 800 carry automotive bulbs, so you may bulbs (1141) used for turn signals Weesamith Store {MosK58 oc them onthe web at_ need tomakeatiptoan aviowuppy and backap light, butfrlanerns , 2259080 ‘wonshoreholders.com,) You need! store. The bulbsyouneedare 120k, that are less bright, vou ean subst yt’ (Min toorera ingle-contac,twowire bay- single-contact bulbs, Wechose I8vait tute « Zaratt bulb (1165). 68 ages Wondwerkers Sapaty "300.645.0202 wow.rondnerercom Nolen pietay, Cetin. NA SSL hinges ain * “Online Extras”. Plans, Patterns, & More + Over 100 Woedworking Tips Osline * VisitOurRealers Proeet Photo Galery * Project Pans You Can Dovmld ata of Project Kits, Tools, Fis, & Plans + Foruns: for Woedwerking, Tools, & Chasifeds * Links to Otter Woostworkeng sites * Order Weodomith & SopNotoe Back lesues www.woodsmith.com CTS ed ty MasterCard, Disc WoodsmithFINAL DETAILS Coffee Table.» Ths more ean jus: ns elegant enc table. With the hl of ‘aumnine bfemech: anit do sawenient ning tale or alandy ek" fr heme Camplete plans sar on page. (Outdoor Lantems. Buil these low-voltage lanterns, end De >oullbe the envy of your neighborod, We've incuded everything you nse low — fom bald sip o hard ware sources, Seepage 18 for step-by-step insmuctions. ‘A Display Cabinet. Whether sow bud ths cabinet sore tools or display a favre collect the way of te or materiale. Instructions begin on page 23. jou won't need much in