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    Woodsmith Magazine - 133

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    381 visualizzazioni36 pagine

    Woodsmith - 133

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    rsotoqp
    Woodsmith Magazine - 133

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    di 36
    Heavy-Duty ; Workbenc Woodsmith February, 2001 ‘Donald B. Peschke ‘Teery J.Strobman Jon Garbison Vincent Ancone Craig Ruegsegger ‘Todd Lambirth David Kreyling Dirk Ver Steeg ‘Harlan V. Clark Jonathan Bike No. 133 Publisher Editor Associate Editors Contrib. Editor Art Director Senior Mlustrators, Graphic Intern ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES ‘retice Deir Ted Kracek * Pra Deeper Ken, Mail « 5; Frye Dewy eat Wen Prt Desir Cir Rtoager: Seve Curis © Sip ek Seen St Ptr a SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS Freie Bitar Does. Hct «At Dior Done Fin + Sonor Graphs Dusgner Chet owas ‘norte Greg Boose olaitont Ear Joel A Thess «Grophie Darron: Vo Nasyen, Apt ‘ake Janing = Crepe iene eater Boots ‘cmcuanion, ‘Suber Series Deo: Soy Baan * Kew Bsns ‘Manger Wace Magick” Bowadion MR fas = CORPORATE SERVICES Manager Carin Cupp = eb Stet Boer Gene Pelerscn Tekno Anat C0 Stier = ‘Wn Content Manager: Tey Walker, Davi SEs TLR Asistant Karten Keele + Paris Dtprs Joka she Agwin: Asisane Sherri Wbbey Arey: rane Jtosane Mad fon Deen Las Webber \WOODSMITH MAIL ORDER ‘Gperaions Dir: Bob Baker » Gatomer Sree ‘Ehos« Maree Sipr: Naney Johngon » Boer Linea Innes © Teck Serie RepTheny Rudete Adve ‘Asst: Nancy Downey» Cost Ser Rage Tarry ‘Trockesbrod, Anas Coe, Deborah. Reh April Revell, Valerie Rily, Uinda Stepp. Warehowar: Silla Cary, Dan Spite, Sher Know. At Vout woopsMrrH sToRE Mowager Dave Larson * Sale Sf Wend Sonn Ji. Bare Katy Sri, Lamy Moron acd Cason Tt "Then Mac oa » er Bi VSI Etvards ete uae Pe - ‘gin si eee Caan Seavert ei Romance A ati mer joe lees Wn TAS te arco —— — Printed USA, DUNO) a ICO) AO TY SAWDUST about building a project? For me it's nique involved in building ‘TaBLE LAMP, This is certainly the case ‘The lamp is definitely a greatlooking toassemble the lamp. It's one { hadn't seen before. (In fact I'm not exactly ‘The idea for this joint came about {our Project Developer) that I was planning to build a table lamp. What I had in mind was a Craftsmenstyle Jamp that had four individual legs that -cambined to form a tapered column, ‘As with any lamp, the challenge was figuring out a way to get the cord on a type of dovetail joint that would automatically create a space in the sounded like the ideal solution, so we decided to give ita try. narrow, wood blanks, Each had half dovetail profile routed on the two sitle edges. The dovetailed edges: Woodsmith interlocked with one another to form column with a hollow channel down the center — 2 perfect solution for feeding the cord through theeolumn, ‘Okay, sounds great. But its probe bly aciffcutt joint to make, isnt? That's the best part of all. This dovetail joint ean be done on the router table with one setup. That's right —one setup. It’s one of the few joints ['ve run across that’s actually ‘easier to make then itlooks. But don't ‘take my word for it, check out the box ‘on page 32 and see for yourselt, ‘WORKBENCH, Another project we've ‘been working on lately isa new work- bench for the shop. Our old bench thas needed to be upgraded for some time, But i’ lke the old saying about the cobbler’s kid always needing new shoes. Our workbench project always seemed to get put of. Well Ifinally cet aside some time to build the new bench. And I'm glad { dic. Ithes a rock-solid base, and a top Fig enough to handle just about any size project. We even added a tool storage system thatfits under the top. ‘To make a long story short, I was so pleased with the way the project turned out that { decided to feature it in this issue, Take another look at the front cover, and | think you'll agree that this is one impressive work: bench, For more on building the bench, check out the step-by-step arti- le beginning on page €. No. 188 A LOOK SID}? CONTENTS Features Heavy-Duty Workbench The comerstone of every shop isa soli bench. And they don't ‘come more solid than this one. Its traditional design is improved avith modem maerials that help ensure the top wil stay flat Workbench Accessories ................ 13 Sometimes it seems you need a third (or even fourth) hand when you're working on a project. These three litile items earn their keep by holding your work in place on the bench wp. Workbench Storage The space below the top of the workbench is the perfect place to put your tools. Choose from several storage options, inckuding a drawer-and-door unit that slides into the base of the workbench. Hall Mirror & Coat Rack . meee ofthis rack is obvious. And so is its purpose ou don't see at first is thar the hooks slide from side to side to make room for bulley coats or bags Fast Fixes ..... No maiter how careful you ave, it seems inevitable that a project gets bronped or hanged — don't worry. We'll shou ow some tips fo take the sing out of those denis anal dings Craftsman-Style Table Lamp ........... 30 When building this lamp, you'll use a common dovetail bit chat rakes quick ssork of cutting the jomery, With a minirnum of time cand material, you'l have a project that realy shines. Departments Tips & Techniques ‘® Shop Notes . Sources ... a Crafisman-Style Lamp paye 3) No. 123 Woodsmith 3a Gm From FELLOW A Yoror Ke sutast} Sanding Disc Guard Thave a beli/dise sander side of the platform to and have had more than keep the guard in place. ‘one close cal between my Next, add a cover to sleeve andthe dise when hie the dis itself To lay using the belt sender: So ‘came up with a slip-on the arched assembly on a ‘guard toccower the dise,s piece of hardbcard and Sowninthephotoatright. trace the profile down to ‘Thearched portionthat the platform cleats. Cut goes around the perime- out the cover on the band terofthedisciscutiroma saw and glue it to the section of 2x6 (Fig. 1). framework. Then sand the (foul have to size this edges of the cover fush piece to fit your sander) with the frame. ‘Then attach a couple of When | need to cover smnall cleats to each end of the disc sander, the guard a the arch, One cleat rests simply drops into place aie le (on the dise sander plat Is easly removed when RE potas sur form'o poston the guard the disesanderis needed. croesneers at the right height. ‘The Warsom Bus (Tl ew other extends down the Crlowe, Norn Cacia Tight Quarters Drill IF you've ever forgotten to bore Finally, holes before a cabinet assembly, drill 2 hole and a reguler drill won't fit inside centered the earcase the simple, shopmade on the face hand drill shown at right will do ofthedisk to the job slow, but surely. accept the drill The body of the drillisa dia bit. Before reaching: hardwood circle, asshownin Fig. into that tight spot to. siart 1. To accept a thumbscrew, { driling, just tighten the thamb- drilled a hole from one edge of screw to clamp the bt in pace. the dist the center then tapped Guy Geraed 4,20 threads in the hole Onli, Frida QUICK TIPS Plastic Cover Cabinet Fan Cylinder Line Guide ‘To Keep the storage area below a The enclosed base of my router On a recent project, [needed to ‘workbench dstireebutstillacces table greatly reduces noise and transfer several marks from one sible, attach a clear plastic“apeon” dust, But I was concerned about end ofa cylinder tothe other end. using short strips of seltadhesive the router overheating. My solution wasto lay the cyin- hookancloop tape (Velero). 1st So 1 mouinted 2 bathroom der behind a piece of angle iron pled the hook portion tothe bench, exheust fan to the cabinet to pull laying on my bench. Align amark = yy ‘while the sticky backing holds the in cooler outside airand blow itup with the top edge of the angleiron Joop portion othe plastic sheet. onto the router. and then mark the other end. Ken Ever Paul M, Bowmen. Henry Fis ‘Slepy How, lino Femdde, Washgen Malboiene, Fonda 4 ‘Woodsmith No. 133 Small Shelf Wall Hanger ‘As I was using my biscuit joiner to assemble some simple, L-shaped wall shelves recently, it ‘occurred to me thata cou: ple of biscuit slots would workas partofan invisible Ihanging system, Note: This system is meant to hang shelves that will hold lighter loads. ‘The first part ofthe sys- tem is a couple of extra #20 biscuitslotsin the bot- ‘tom face of the horizontal shelf Position a slot near ‘each end of the she, like you seein Fig. 1. ‘The second part of the system consists of two U- ‘shaped slots cut in the ver- tical piece of the shelf assembly. These slots align with the biscuit slots in the shelf, as shown in Fig, 1a. I formed each slot by drilling a shallow hole with a 4" Forstner bit The depth of the hole should match the distance from the back edge of the shelfto the far edge of the biscuit slot, see Fig. 1b. ‘Then to complete the *U” shape, chisel away. the outside edge of the hole. To hang the shelf, 1 used some expandable hollow wall hangers, but ‘with a stnall modification. (These hangers can be found at most hardware stores) Atter installing the hangers in the wal, remove the machine serews that come with them and replace the screws with carriage bolts (Fig. 2). The biscuit shos “capture” the bott heads to support the shelf One advantage to this system is that its easy to ‘get the shelf tight to the wall — and that helps keep the shelf in place. Simply edjustthe carriage bolts in or out until the heads ft snug to the back ‘ediges of the biscuit slots, asshown in Fig. 1b Once the carriage bolts are adjusted, the shelf can bbe-hung on the wall Rober Porter Gln, Ohio Straightedge Support Blocks ‘When adjusting the height (of my jpinter knives, bal ance a metal straightedge on the outfeed table to serveas a gauge. Butevery little bump knocks the straightedge over. This problem was solved with a short piece of scrap andl a few cuts on the table saw, All that’s needed is a Kerf in each end of the scrap. Make each kerfjust a little wider than the No. 133 BUTS Ole ty If you have an original shop tip, we would like 1 hear from you and consider publishing your tip in one or more of our publications. Just write down your tip and mail it to: Woodsmith, Tips ‘and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312, Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we thave any questions, If you would like, FAX it to 1s at 5152825741 or send us an email message ‘a: woodsmith@woodsmith.com. We will pay up to $200 if we publish your tp. thickness of the straight- edge and a little deeper than the width of the straightedge, as shown in Fig. la, Then cut a sup- port block from each end Of the scrap. As you can ‘Woodsmith see in Fig, 1, when these Blocks straddle the straightedge, they act ike ‘an extré pair of hands to keep itfrom falling over. Joseph A. ischiaw Monroeville, PA 4. A suppor: block eepsa straight- ‘edge on edge. A large, heavy-duty workbench that's easy to build. Combining traditional joinery and modem materials is the key. Aine etait what you first aotce (its nearly cightfootiong and three fect wide, not including the vse), it’s realy the con struction that makes it interesting, Itsablend ofold and newtechrology. ‘The base is built of heavy, sold lumber, using traditional mortise and tenon joinery. Bat the top is constructed primarily of DF (rectum: density fiberboard). So as ‘well as being fat and stable, it has the additional benefit of being quick and casy to make (unlike a top that is ghied up from solid wood) Another ice featureare the rows of dog holes along the front and left side of the bench, Combined with a few simple accessories (which are described on page 13), these makeit ‘easy to hold a workpieve while rout ing, sanding, or planing. ‘Tred of looking for your tools? They'lchuays be within reach if ‘71 build dhs lide storoge ui. Turn 0 page (4 forcomplese plans. Woodsmnith OPTIONAL STORAGE. As great as this ‘workbench is to work on, you can snake iteven better by adding some ‘optional storage units underneath (Gee inset photo below). With the bank of dravers, the cupboards at each end, and the open shelving at the back, you won't be running out ‘f space anytime soon. You can read the story behind these stor age units on page 14. n Construction Details ‘Three layers of MOF are laminatedto create 3 top that _Pauble som of dog OVERALL DIMENSIONS: ‘Blissable and durable | >< holes workanetl Sop pt row of og toes Se Sane ae nes ond other acceso see page 13 | suetters stobilze lbng font 8 back ois Heavy duty ext on Geet mortived” hardbord solines Isto front apror 0 hep align top and apron For more on ae boa Perverts é ge a ieeige. ( ieee on koe ie ‘Corner blocks =, nei, hema stone roa, a. i Enon miheiteoes MAT! ‘S, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM A Legs (4) 3x3-32% —L_ Top Layers (2)* UNOF- 33x91 Woo Cleats (2) 4 MOF- ex 26716 B Upper end Rais (2) 1/2%3%4-26)2 — M Suppor Block (1) 1_x6-15 — - (50) #8 x 1%" En Woodscrews, € LowerEndRais(4) tax 4%e-26lo N Top End Pieces (2) %MoF~ 15x21 + (12) 48x 175" Fh Woodscrews D Upé Fr/Bk. Rais(2) 1%x3%4-68%? 0 Topfrt.Piece (1) — %4MD*-6x76 * (48) #8 x 212" Fh Woodscrews E Lwifr/Bk.fals(2) V2x4ls-68% P Top Bk Piece(1) — 4NDF-6x91 = (1) #14x 2" Fh Woodscrews F UpperStretchers@) 1%x334-27 Q Top Ctr Pisces) YeMDF-6x21 + (2) Fis’ xa" Hex Head Bolts G Lower Stretchers) 1/2x4/%-27 Front Apron(I) 172 372- 82/4 (2) Fo Lock Nuts H Comer locks(8) Wax 212 7% § Back Apron (1) hx 30-1 + (4) 5ia* Flat Washers 1 SheifCieats(@) 11x 94-20% Left Apron (1) ‘x32 24% + (1) Woodworking Vise 4 Ctr Shell (1) 3% ply.=267% «327° U fight Apron(!) 11x 31-35% = (1) %4"-dia. Harewood Dowel 48" jong) K End Shelves (2) Jeply.- 2676 16%¢ WV Face Block (1) 3xdy- 18 > (1) 4" Hardboard (1 « 240" In. in) ‘ote: One top layer stars out oversize. No. 133 Wondsmith Base ‘When it comes to building a worke tench, the base has to meet two requirements It needs to be strong. Aid it needs to be stable. I decided tb use hard maple for the base because of its strength and the added mass it gives the beach, But 8 g0o4, less expensive substitute would be “tworky” framing lumber. would suggest Douglas fie) LEGS, The dst step in building the bave of this bonch is to male the legs, As you can see in Fig. 1, each Jeg (A) is glued up irom iwo pieces of 11g" thick stock. I ripped these pieces slightly wider Gan the fin- ished width of the legs. This way, ‘you don't have to worry about Keen- ing the two pieces exactly aligned when gluing them up. Aiter square ing up each blank, you can cut the lege to final length @2/"). WORTSES. Large mortise ancl tenon jointsare used to join the rallsot te bench with the legs. Before making ‘the mortises, I lad them all out on the leas, like the drawing in the lef ‘margin shows, The important thing to notice when laying out the mor tibes is that the lees arentt identi cal. The righthand legs and left hhand legs mirror each othes. This ‘way, the jointline won't show fram the front ofthe bench ig. 1a). After the mortises are laid out, you can begin driling out the waste. Tdid this on a drill press, using @ Forsiner bit. Drilling overlapping holes removes most of the waste, and what litle i left behind can be Guickly removed with a chisel. You ‘can see in the drawing at the left that the mortises at the top of each. leg are open on one end, This way, you won't have to worry about “blowing out” the mortise at the top ofthe legs during assembly. To complete the legs, a %s" roundorer is routed along the edges ofeach leg andon the bottom, Then SZ mn gop ‘NOTE: Aout rounsevers WIE iy Then ove oppet cates «If! stopped chamfer is routed on the outside corner ofeach lex. IAL, The legs are connected by two sets of rails at the top and dottom. I started by making the ‘end rails. (All the rails are made from 14! thick stock.) You'l need two npper end rails (B) and two omer end rails (C). After cutting the rails to size, you can cut tenons ‘on the ends to match the mortises in the legs, a8 shown in Figs. 1b and Te, Since each tenon has 14" shoulders, one set up on the table saw isall you need, as shown in Fig. 2. Note that the tenons on the upper rails are bare-faced — to atch the open mortises at the top ‘of exch leg. Finally, the two ends of the base can be glued up. RONT/RIAR RALS. Except for their length. the railsat the front and rear ofthe bench are practically identical to the end rails (Fig. 8). The apper Prontiback rails (D) and tower No. 133 e frontiback raits (B) are ext to ‘and tenons are cut on the ends. These tenons are identical to the ones eut on the end rails. (For a tip on cutting tenons on long work: pieces, see paxe 21.) Before assembling the ends and rails, there's one other detail to take care of. To hold some stretchers that wil be added between the front ard back rails, a couple of shallow adoes are cut on the inside fice of each rail, as shown in Fig. 3. Once thisisdore, the rails and ends of the ‘bench can allbe glued together. staercHens, The séveichers (F; G) ‘hat [just mentioned are cut to size trom 1'4thick stock, Stub tenons are cut on the ends of the stretch: ers, and then after brushing a litle SIDE SECTION W. _glue on the tenons, each streicheris slipped in between the front and back tals. A few screws help to hold. the stretchers in place. Once the stretchers are screwed! Jn place, the screws can be plugged. (Big. 35). While you're at it, go head ané dr holesin te legs and pin the tenons with ‘Adia, dowels (Fig. 46. Isanded a sight chamfer lower blocks serve an extra pur- on the exposed ends of the olugs pose. They provide support for {and pins), then glued them in place some shelvesthat are added nex. so they siood slightly proud of the SHELVES, Shelves are ited into the surface bout fa". bottom of ihe bench forstoring tools ‘comer AGS. Each corner of the and eculpment. Or fyouire going to base fs reinforced with a couple of ald the optional storage units, the corner blocke (H) (Fig). In addi shelvesprovide ala, slid base tion to beefing up the corners. the Theshelves rest on elas (2) that are glued and serewed to the lower Sretchers (Fig. 4). Once these are in place, you can cut a center shelf GD and two ent shelves (K) from %4" plywood, The center shelf is Simply cut to size and dropped in place. But the two end shelves have to be notched in the corners to it around the legs of the bench, Were oe 7 come PO Far at = | + 12 eae | | It Lol A A hardboard tem- Place allows you 0 ‘accurately dil holes for the shelf pins. 15 Drawers & Doors Thecenter section ofthe cab- Inet fs designed to hold five drawers. These are graduated In size to accommodate cit ferent types of tools. But the nice thing is hat the method ‘ofconstrucion sidentical for all of them. So other than « {ew dimension changes, the procedure isthe same, DRAWER PARTS, | started by ccuting the Ys"thiek drawer fronts and backs (H, 1, J) and drawer sides (K, L) to size ig. 9). The tronts and backs are cat 1 narrower than the cabinet opening so there will be clearance for the fullextension slides. Next the halfblind dove tails that hold the drawer together can be routed. And Smallimedium ) rower” | NOTE ll deawee aagroove forthe drawer bot. Ateshown ee a uate |e tom can be cut on the sel thek””™ DRAWER FRONT oe ee inside face of each drawer piece This groove is centored on the back of the drawers with ease, This space is for the drawer false the botom pin of the drawer sides I used fulkextension metal drawer fronts that willbe addled next This way, it won't be visible on the sides to mount the drawers (Fig. Ai ROMS. The falto fronts (0, ge ends of the workpieces after the 4), One half of the slide is serewed P,Q) are cut from %"thick hard- drawers are assembled. to the side of the draver, and the wood (Pig. 5). They are simply ‘DRAWER BOTTOMS. The drawer: bot. other half is screwed to the side of —screived to the front of each drawer toms (M,N) areal cut from 44" ply. the cabinet. The important thing is so that there isa As" gap all aroun ‘wood. Aiter they're cut to size, the that when mounting the slide to the front of the drawer, To make it drawers can be glued up. the cabinet, you allow ‘4’ clear- easier to adjust the false fronts, ty RaweR SUDES. Because I wanted ance between the slice and the drilling oversize screw holes to be able to get to items stored at front edge of the cabinet (Fig. 4b). through the 1-thick drawer fronts Side sts ander a | Mount crower er {sero east Sedidesof dower b Let wi A. How many tools can yoo pick into five ae drawers? Plenty. Wit heavy-duty, fill rartenson extension drawer slides sou can make good 4 we of every inch of each drawer 16 ‘Woodsmith No. 138 first, Then attach the false fronts using screws and finish washers The oversize holes in the drawer fronts should provide enough “play” to adjust the fase fronts fora perfect fit. Once the false fronts aren place, you can edi the metal drawer pulls. OGRS. To enclose the shelves on either side of the drawers, I added two doors, These are frame and panel doors, assembled with simple stub fenoa and groove joinery. “To make the doors, start by cut ting the door ris (R) and stiles (S) to size (Fig 6). Next, a grooveiis cut ‘on the inside edge of each piece to hold a plywood frame. When these {Erooves are complete, stub tenons are cuton the ends of the ralls (0 fc inthe grooves in the siles, FANS. Each door panel is just @ piece of 1A" plywood. After cutting the door panels (7) to size, the doors car be assembled, HINGES. The cabinet doors are ‘mounted on commoa butt hinges. 1 door stile, but screwed it directly to Now that the doors are hung, a wanted the hinges to match the the side ofthe cabinet (Fig. a). And pull can be added to each. Then to other hardware, so I spray painted creating the mortises in the door keep each door closed, I installed a some ordinary steel hinges black. stiles is easy. I simply set the door small magnetic catch (Figs. 6b). After the sprey paint has dried, on edge and ran itaeross a dado These catches are mounted to the the hinges can be attached to the _blace on my table saw. (A tall auxil underside of the top of the cabinet, cabinet. Tomake this aseasy «spos iary miter gauge feace will ela sup- aud the strike plates arc mounted (0 sible, mortised each hinge into the port the door while you do this) _ the back of each door. wa Thrcknesof ee Boose No. 133 ‘Woodsmith 7 Back Av this point, the front storage cab nts practicaly complete. The oaly thing that's left to dois ald a hack, I you take a jook at Fig.7, you can see thatthe hackis matte upofthree sep- aratepicces af 4" plywood, There are ‘two backend panels (U)and alerger ‘back center panel (V). ‘When measurlag to determine the sizes of these back panels, keep ‘in mind that they St in between the rabbets cut in the sides of the cabi- net but completely cover the back ‘edges ofthe cabinet top and bottom. After the panels are cut to size, they're simply glued and nailed to the back of the cabinet with wire brails (igs. Zaand 7b) INSTALING THE CAINE. naling the ‘cabinet in the bench couldn't be much simpler. ft just slidesinto place ntl the front edge is flush with the lower front rilof the bench. @ a | - vac 2 Pov its PANEL ‘CENTER ee 6x1" phovood back isa and dah MATERIALS Frowt Srorace Casiner ‘A. TopiBotion (2) Yaply.-21 x 6A B Vertical Dividers (2) Yeply -21 x 18s © Horiz. Divider (1) spy. -21 x 34Ie D Drawer Diveer(1) YDW.- 218A E Edging (1) Ux aBiin. fe F Sides 2) ply. 21% x 19% G Shelves (2) Ye ply. = 20% 14% H Sm. Drawer FriBks (4) Yo 3-155 1 Med, Drawer F/Bk. (2) ox 3io- 33 4. Ig, Drawer Fr/Bis. (4) We 8x33 K Sm/Med. DrawerSides (6) Yax 3%4- 19% L. tg. Drawer Sides (6) aise 19% M Sm. Drawer Btms.(2) te ply.-19% x 15M N lg. Drawer 8tms.(3) Ya ply. - 19% x32/%6 ‘© 5m, Drawer faise fronts (2) %4x3%- 16% P Med. Dramer Fale Front(t) 34x 356- 337% Q Lg, Drawer False Fronts (2) 74x 4%4-337% Door Ralls (4) Ux - 10% cor Stiles (4) R s Ux V1 T_ Door Panels (2) u v ‘apy - 10%4 «13% Uapy. = 15% x 19% ply. 34% x 197% Back End Panels (2) Back Center Panel (1) Suewers Uurr W TopiBotion (2) py. 2% x 647% X Sides 2) ply - 734 19% Y Divider (1) % ply. - 7x 187s Z Back Panels (2) Wa py. - 32% x 197% AAShelves (2) Faply - Tx 31" SUPPLIES + (48) #8 » 114" Fh Woodscrews, + (10) Brass Shelf Fins + ( pr) 26” Full Extension Drawer Slides wiScrews, + (26) #6 » 1” Fh Woodscrews + (26) #6 Finish Washers + (10) 4%" Door Pulls w/Screws, + (2 pr) 2° » 1%” Butt Hinges w/Screws + (2) Magnetic Catches w/Strikes and Screws + (76) #16x 1° Wire Brads CUTTING DIAGRAM 0» SU" 66" Hard Maple (3.7 Bd. Fe) ALSO NEEDED: Twn sheets of 2° maple plywcod Sndtwe shost of 4" maple plywood 8 ‘Woodsmit No. 133 Shelving Unit ‘The frontsioragecabinet doesnt com- pletelyfillthe space underthe bench. So I added an open shelving anit at theback This untstarisoffasa basic box and features the same construc tion 2s the front cabinet. But the unit fsntesdeep asthe front cabinet, and therearea't any drawersor doors. So itscquite a bit easier to build T started building the shelving ‘unit by cutting the main pieces to size. As you can see in Fig 8, there’s a top and bottom (W), two sides (80, anda divider (¥). These panels are all cut from %" plywood and then 1’ hardwood edgingis applied to the front edges of each piece, Once the edging isin place, you can begin on the joinery. Rabbets are cut on the ends of the sites to hold the top and betiom pane's. A rabbet is also cut along the back edge of each side to hold the back panels that willbe addled later ‘The top and bottom panels eack receive 2 dado to hold the divider panel (Fig, 8b). This dado is cen- tered on the length ofthe panels. ‘When you've finished cutting all the rabbets and dadoes, the shelv: ‘ng unit can be assembled. Like the cabinet, these pieces are just ued and screwed together Gig. 89. SURE PIM HOLS, Before adding the back, some shel pinholes need to bbe drilled in the eabinct sides. Again Tused a simple template to do this. Bat since the spacing of these holes isn the same as the front cabinet, you'll need anew template (Fig. 8). wong Oat we +h 1 @ he SIDE 18h 4 Once the shelf pin holes bave says. All hat’ Jet now is to add been diilled, you can ackl a back to two shelnes (AA). These are picces the unit Thistime, the backismade of °4" plywood with a strip of hard- up of two identicallysized panels of wood edging glued to cach front i" plywood, as shown in Fig. 9. edge (Fig §). When the shelves are Alter cutting these two back parxels in place, you can slide the shelving (2) to final size, they can be nailed unit into the bench just lke you did inpiace with brads (Fig. a). wwith the front cabinet eT {E youtre looking for aldtional storage, these pegboard panels provide a com venient place to hang afew extra toclsat the ends ofthe workbench, The bestpart is thatthere's hardly anything to them, All you need todo is nail some cleats to the legs and upper and lower end rails ofthe bench, Then place apiece of ‘pegboard against the cleats and tack a second set of cleats down to hold the pegboard! in place. Add a few hooks, ‘and you're ready to hang some took, No.133 Woodsmith Adding a vise to YF te workbench on age Bist eeu In fact, it's just three-step process. Fist, a pocket is cit ia the front apron to accept the rear jaw ofthe Wise. Then the vise is aiteched tothebench. And finaly, a oil arebiockis aide io the front ja. Rat why even go to this trouble? Why net just bol the vise to the font apron and screw a wood pad to cach jaw? There aeacou ple of reasons. By burying the rer aw in the apeon, I» CROSS SECTION you lave a smooth, ‘padded” face the length, ofthe bench for camping, The large face black has flog holes that align with the holes ie the bench so youcan secure wide work pieces. It also. spreads clamping pressure To inslall the vise, youll heed (0 take it apart Sst This isn’t as seary as it sounds. By removing a cotter key, I was able (© separate the front jaw of ny vise (along with the quide rods and threaded shall) from the rear jaw, : ‘ , peal | J be vee trig Font apvans »” SHop NOTES Mounting a Vise Installation of the vise egine before you attach the front apron. As you n sev in Fig, 1, a pocket is laid out and routed in the back face of the apron. Position this pocket so the vise will be centered bedveen the dog holes in the bench: Its size is Yig! ‘wider and taller than the roar jaw of the vise. Once the pocket is done, tle eprom can be altached to the bench top and you can move on to the second step — attach ing the vise. Start by acting a spacer block under the beach top. Thispiece filsthe gap between the support Block (at) and mounting plate (Hg. 3). 1 routed a 34" roundover on one eclge so it would snugly behind the jaw iter the spacer is cut ‘0 ie. i's glued in place Next, a series ef holes neeris to bo drilled, ff you look at Fig. 2, you'l see two eounterbored holes in the top of the bench, These accept hexhead bolts thet pass through cenerine ‘alls to bench top scone. eee roto BEE ore sida 0) Woods » the vise, And ovo holes After gluing the pieces jaws of the vise, vou'll through the front apron togetherlay outand dnilla rotice 6 small gap allow access 19 screws couple of dog Foles in the between the apron and that attach the rear jaw to jawso that they align with the boom ef the face the bench (Fig. 5b). the holes in the bench. Block, ike you see in the To lay oat the holes in Then to mount the face photo at right. Don't thebenich top, youswantto blocs just use the vise fo worry. The vise jans cant work out from the center- clamp the block against (il) in Slightly atthe top, ine of the pocket in the the apion with the cop The Feason is that as you apron and the centerline edges and ends tush clamp a workpiece, it ‘ofthe mounting plate, (Figs. 4a andl 4b). Iwo forces tiie top of the vise & The wp dees ofthe sas ttn slighiy ‘The next thing to dois serewssecureittothejaw. apart. This tlt Keeps the ts conenteact the finees ef clamp to drill the access holes When you close the jewsparailel I that tend o drive the tp edges apare. through the fron: apron (ig. 2). These holes reed to be big enough 10 allow the screws to pass through. Here again, lay out the holes by wer from the centerines ofthe reat jew and the pocket. ‘The third step ig male ing and mounting the wood face black (V). This, consists of two slabs of Apsthick maple glued together (Fig. 4), Before doing thet, a radius needs to be cut on each end of one block as you can see ing 4a I did this on the band saw then sented the ‘curves smooth Cutting Tenons on Long Rails When itwastimetocutthe tenons on the rails for the workbench on page 6,1 tneededa way to handlethe long pieces safely. Fig. Ishowsthe “outig- rer” system T came up with fo support the ends that extend past the wing, of the table saw Just clamp a board to 2 saw horse so that it maiches the height of the wing, An auxiliary fence attached to the miter auuze helps support the piece. And a hold-down clamped to the fence keeps. the rall_ pressed firmly to the table, This Jets you tse both hands to push the workpiece through the ex, eee 2 ipa No. 138 Woodanith 2 HALL Mirror & CoAT RACK Just a traditional hall mirror? Looks can be deceiving. These coat hooks are adjustable. coks that move — that’s the idea behind this project. ‘Ifyou thinkaboutit, aheavy winter coat or hat takes upalot more room than a scarf or an umbrella. Soit{ust makes sense that a coatrack would have hooks that slide back and forth, as shownin theinsetphoto at right. This ‘way, everything fits comfortably. Here's how they work: The hooks are attached to wood block, and these blocks have tongues that slide back and forth in a track in the frame, as shown in the ‘russ section drawing on page 23, Tarlded eight hooks to this mirror, but the choice is up to you. ‘Now sliding hooks may be alitle unconventional, but this mirror is very traditionaliooking. There are a num- ber of reasons for this. For one thing, I chose heavy- duty hooks with an antigued finish. And I think the Woodamith ‘A You can give heavy winter coats more room by adjusting the hooks on this frame. Tongues on the ‘ook blocks side back ard forth na simple cack. beveled mirror and the darer stain of the frame also help give this project a bit ofan old-fashioned character. ‘The frame joinery is equally tracitional. With all the ‘weight here (the mirror ax the winter coats), 1 decided to assemble the frame with sturdy mortises and tenons. ‘And one last thing. The number of hooks you adil isn't your only choice. You can also choose to fil behind them with a solid back For more on this, see page 27. No. 133 ' Construction Details orton —— panera ting, OVERALL DIMENSIONS: SOU 2234"H1 x 2D we, poh two Kotak fe eee ie is aus — ' Molding at ep ard bottom Bui Gp tron Bo layers, Sena sock | Track for hook ‘hook nts < 1s filer ste rv ea eee a / tomionea Bt oe Bethel eee Beleror” connagns anita? rears, mie” Gu geling ee wap two-piece roti too eens ae ‘Ross = £28 Due rece, MATERIALS, SU! ES, & CUTTING DIAGRAM A Stiles (2) Yx 24-20% G Hook Block Fronts (8) %x2%s- 2% * (14) #4.x 14" Fh Woodscraws B Rais (3) ax 2We- 46 H Hook Block Backs (8) Y4x2/- 2%» (1) 11%" x44" Mirror with 1” Bavel C Filler Strips (2) Vax h-20%a 1 Retainer Strips (2) Ux ABYe + (1) 11 le x44" Cardboard Filler D Top Molding (1), Yar 2e- 5014 + (8) Coat Hooks wi/Screws * (1).1115" x44" Posterboard Back E Bottom Moiding (1) %4x 134-494) + (10) #4 x 24" Fh Woodscrews + (2) Keynole Hangers: F Cove Molding(2) x 1-49 + (14) Plastic Tum Buttons (2) #8 x 56" Fh Woodscrews 53 1 5167-96" Red Oak (3.7 Fe) wT) 367 SUA 60" Red Oak (2.3 80 Fe) NOTE: Pars 6, ana Wilneed t be resann Oy planed to several Sifferenccenesses Lee EE Le Lee | Woodsmith a ee ee) hook blocks Frame & Molding ‘The frame of this project will support both the mirror and the coats thal ‘be hung on the hooks, So to make sure it was good and strong, joined the pieces with mortise and tenon joints. There are six of each, and they/re all identical FRAME SIES & RALS. The first thing to:doia cut the ofiles (A) and rails (B) to size from *A"thick stock, as showa in Fig. 1 above, The only uunustal thing hereiis that there's an extra rall atthe bottom for holding the coat hook blocks (added late). MORTISE & TINDN. The frst ting to do to these pieces is cut the moctis: ee and tenons Figs. 1b and 1c). {his joint. [Hk to stare with the mar tises, drilling overlapping holes and then cleaning them up with 2 chisel. To provide room for excess glue, I made the mortises slightly deeper than 132" (he length of the tenons), as shown in Fig. la. And note that the mortise sions 4" (not 4) from. the ends of the stiles (Fig. 1b). This extra YA" helps strengthen the bot- tomofeach stile Keep in mind, though, that this cestra 7A" means the shoulders ofthe tenons won't be i" all the way around (Fig. 1c}. So altercutfing the cheeks ofa ihe tenons, youll need to raise tho blade to “A* for the TOF SECTION VIEW i" chamfer” ‘Now 0 form half of the track for the hook blocks, a small rabbet is ‘cut on the two lower rails (Fig. 2). This track should be slightly over ized so the blocks slide easily So T cut a%/y"

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