Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
C o n t e n t s :
Przemysaw Szymczyk
BMW R75
ukasz Kapelski
Jagdpanther
DML 1:35
Page 16
Rafa Bulanda
sU-122-54
scratchbuild 1:35
Page 36
ukasz Orczyc-Musiaek
t-55
tamiya 1:35
Page 66
BMW R75
Przemysaw Szymczyk
MotoRCYCLe
FIGURes
To make the vehicle more attractive I decided to add two motorcyclists wearing
interesting looking winter gear. Gas mask
and scarf, which cover their faces, make
them look like the Star Wars series characters. I received the German Motorcycle
Crew (35030) figures set courtesy of the
Mantis Miniatures, for which I am thankful
to its owner. It is of exceptional quality,
the sculpting and casting is flawless. The
only thing that has to be done is a careful
removal of the casting seams, as they are
really tiny and easy to overlook, which
may cause an unpleasant surprise during
painting.
The figures were designed for the Great
Wall Hobby kit, therefore I was afraid if
they would fit my miniature. It turned out
to be feasible, but not without some effort. First of all, the connection between
the motorcycle and the sidecar in the
Master Box kit is not as wide as that in
the GWH kit, thus the figures placed at
their respected locations do not fit side
by side. Removing some creases in their
garment and sanding does the trick. The
driver figure required a slightly different
placement of the arms, which triggered
some additional joints processing, filling in
the gaps and creating details with modelling compound. I also cut part of the hand
holding the handlebar and sculpted a new
one which fit my model. The figures were
finished with adding a few folds of the material on the back of the passenger, thus
reducing the space between his back and
the seat.
PAInItInG
tHe VeHICLe
FIRs
t
AID
FIGURes PAIntInG
Like in case of the vehicle, I started with
the Chaos Black primer. To make painting
easier, I placed the figures on sticks.
I airbrushed the driver with the base
colour, a mixture of Vallejo Chocolate
Brown, Brown Sand and White.
The figure was provisionally shaded
first, from the top, airbrushing the base
colour with a drop of white
and then from the bottom, with the
same colour mixed with more Chocolate
Brown.
8
tHe BAse
I wanted to exhibit the miniature in an impressive way, so I decided to build a small base.
I made a box using a three-millimetre balsa
plate and trimmed its edges to the desired
shape. Then I filled it with fitting foam. When
it dried, I trimmed the excess and started
working on the ground. I applied a layer of
plaster, which was immediately covered with
soil that I quietly walked off from a flower pot
standing on the window sill. Before the plaster
set, I made ruts using a wheel from an old kit.
When everything was dry, I secured it with
Uni-Grunt priming emulsion.
The shrub was made of thin copper wire.
Several
dozen,
few-centimetres-long
lengths were twisted together forming separate branches. Finished one was placed
on the base and covered with MIG Acrylic
Resin to hide its wire origin. I applied
short electrostatic grass in some places using thinned white glue (Wikol) and then airbrushed the base with the shades of brown.
I thought that fallen leaves would brighten
up the scene, but since I did not have the
laser cut ones, I went outside and picked
up a few dry leaves in different shades lying
in front of my house. First, they were additionally dried in the oven and then crumbled into small pieces. Thus created foliage
was glued to the base and the shrub.
Creating snow was the next challenge. Initially, I planned to buy Vallejo Foam & Snow
paste, but the economy pushed me towards
baking soda which was at hand. With a brush,
I applied the MIG Productions Acrylic Resin
on the base and then sprinkled it with soda.
The result was quite convincing. Fine snow
was achieved by smearing the base with
thinned white glue (Wikol) and sprinkling it
with soda. The chassis of the motorcycle was
snow-covered in the same way, but here
I used light grey pigment to soften the contrasts. Finally, I glued the vehicle to the base
with UHU two-component adhesive and
masked the joint with snow.
10
11
FIsH
CHI ,
Ps,
&to
oLs
KIts AnD
AFteRMARKet
ACCessoRIes:
German Motorcycle,
WWII Master Box 3528
German Motorcycle Crew
Mantis Miniatures 35030
seLeCteD
tooLs AnD
MAteRIALs:
Styrene sheets
(0,25 to 2mm thick)
Magic Sculp and Greenstuff
modelling compounds
UHU cyanoacrylate gel glue
White glue (Wikol)
NOCH grass
Plaster, plant soil, leaves
Baking soda
Uni-Grunt priming emulsion
MIG Acrylic Resin
PAInts AnD
WeAtHeRInG
PRoDUCts:
12
13
NEW
PHOTOSNIPER
ukasz Kapelski
JAGDPAntHeR
the Jagdpanther
tank destroyer is
one of my favourite
German armoured
fighting vehicles of
World War II.
Low and compact silhouette makes you think of
modern designs. The excellent 88mm gun turned
that vehicle into an almost invincible opponent on
the battlefield, especially at long range, for which
the tank destroyer was designed. Only several
hundred were built, however, they were not able
to turn the tide.
16
17
18
19
20
FIRs
t
AID
LIGHt AnD
sHADe eFFeCt
To get a really subtle colour modulation I used mixed Tamiya
paints. The brown base colour for further paintwork was
Tamiya XF-52. It was followed by XF-60 Dark Yellow, mixed
almost one to one with white. I tried to apply it more generously
to the areas that were supposed to be lighter, leaving those
that were to be darker with the brown undercoat showing
through. The next step was highlighting the upper hull, sides
and the back plate. Again, I tried to highlight the top surfaces
the most. Once more I used the XF-60 mixed with white, but
at that time the proportions were reversed in favour of the
latter paint. The mixture was supplemented with XF-57 Buff.
xF-52
55% xF-60
45% xF-2
45% xF-60
50% xF-2
5% xF-57
BAse CoLoUR
CoLoURs
tAMIYA xF-60
DARK YeLLoW
MR.HoBBY H405
oLIVe GReen
tAMIYA xF-64
ReD BRoWn
21
22
23
24
25
26
I WAnteD to IMItAte
ReMAIns oF soIL
stICKInG to tHe LInKs
AnD not CoAt tHeM
entIReLY WItH MUD,
so WHen It ALL DRIeD
A BIt, I ReMoVeD tHe
exCess BY HIttInG It
WItH A stIFF BRUsH
AnD I GAVe tHe
MIxtURe tHe RIGHt
textURe.
27
28
29
30
31
32
FIsH
CHI ,
Ps,
&to
oLs
seLeCteD tooL
AnD MAteRIALs:
sponge
4B pencil
styrodur
balsa
plaster
soil and fine gravel
Uni-Grunt priming emulsion
fine crushed granite
white glue (Wikol)
Heki grass mat
Polak brushes
Humbrol Maskol
Citadel Chaos Black primer
Tamiya, Mr.Hobby Hobby Color series, Vallejo Model
Color and Panzer Aces series paints
Mr.Hobby Clear
Agama decal fluids
Renesans artists oil paints
Zippo lighter fluid
MIG Thinner for Washes
MIG Pigments
MIG & AK-interactive weathering products
33
www.kagero.pl
Rafa Bulanda
sU-122-54
WHILe LooKInG FoR ReFeRenCe MAteRIALs FoR tHe sU-101 seLF-PRoPeLLeD GUn,
I CAMe ACRoss A PHoto oF An ARMoUReD FIGHtInG VeHICLe tHen UnKnoWn
to Me, Yet VeRY IntRIGUInG. tHe VeHICLe WAs 600 oR sU-122-54. tHese
nAMes stAnD FoR A 122MM seLF-PRoPeLLeD GUn BUILt on tHe CHAssIs oF t-54
tAnK. It WAs qUIte UnIqUe FoR RUssIAn ConDItIons, As tHeRe WeRe onLY 80
BUILt BetWeen 1955-1957. I WAs FAsCInAteD to sUCH An extent tHAt I DeCIDeD
to BUILD Its MoDeL.
36
To
37
stoWAGe Boxes
AnD FUeL tAnK
MoUnteD on
tHe MUDGUARDs.
39
HULL tUB
When I consulted the reference material, it
turned out that the second and third axle of
the suspension system had to be moved forward by about 5mm. Photos show the axles
in that position, as they were probably relocated to move the vehicles centre of gravity. Therefore, I cut the part of the hull tubs
bottom plate with the aforementioned axles.
I damaged them in the process, so I had to
build these details from scratch. The bottom
plate of the hull tub was strengthened with
1.5mm plastic sheet, while the control arm
mountings were cut from two 2mm sheets
glued together. Their round bases were
punched. The bolts were added at the end.
DetAILs
I quickly managed to put together the
headlights. I started with their guards.
I cut two strips from 0.25mm polystyrene sheet, rolled them and glued, adding semicircular bottoms at the back.
After sanding, I added their clamping
rings made of polystyrene strips and
some smaller details, as well as the base
to which the headlight was mounted.
The lamps were adapted from Skif s kit.
I thinned their inner edges and glued
the imitations of light bulbs in the middles. The inside of each headlight was
painted with Mr. Hobby Aluminium and
closed with lamp lense, punched from
a transparent sheet and corrugated
with a scalpel. The entire elements
were sanded to get the appropriate,
oval shape of the lamp lenses. Then
they were polished with Tamiya Polishing Compound. Headlights bases were
made of 0.5mm sheet and glued to
the armour. The headlights themselves
were mounted on 0.5mm rods. I also
added the bolts.
40
41
PRe-AsseMBLeD VeHICLe
WItHoUt tHe GUn MAntLe
AnD CHAssIs. tHe sMoKe
FLARes ARe ALReADY In
PLACe on tHe LoWeR
PHoto.
43
45
CoLoUR MoDULAtIon
tHe BAse CoAt oF tAMIYA oLIVe DRAB
WAs HIGHLIGHteD BY AIRBRUsHInG
VARIoUs MR. HoBBY GReens, stARtInG
WItH H422, tHRoUGH H312, UntIL HIGHLY
DILUteD MIxtURe oF H312 WItH WHIte.
tHen I ADDeD soMe sPot HIGHLIGHts
on tHe eDGes AnD DetAILs WItH tHIn
MIxtURe oF VALLeJo PAnzeR ACes
GeRMAn UnIFoRM 1 AnD VALLeJo sILVeR
GReY, APPLIeD WItH A BRUsH. next,
I APPLIeD A DeLICAte FILteR oF HIGHLY
DILUteD tAMIYA xF-51 KHAKI DRAB to
DeCReAse tHe CoLoUR ContRAst.
46
47
oIL WAsH
48
49
PAInt CHIPPInG
50
51
PIGMents
52
I APPLIeD PIGMents BY
An AIRBURsH, stARtInG
FRoM tHe LIGHtest (MIG
P234 RUBBeL DUst) to tHe
DARKest (KReMeR RAW
UMBeR). AFteR ReMoVInG
tHe exCess WItH A BRUsH,
ALL WeRe FIxeD WItH MIG
PIGMent FIxeR.
53
54
55
BAse
My friend Kamil Feliks Sztarbaa gave me
a frame, which was a perfect fit for my
model. I filled it with styrodur foam, which
was fixed with acrylic resin. When it cured,
I shaped it with a knife, cutting the excess
styrodur foam in one corner, as I wanted
to place the vehicle in a slightly raised position. The ground was a mixture of pot soil,
pebbles, earth pigments and Uni-Grunt
priming emulsion. When it dried, I airbrushed consecutive pigments, highlighting
the surface in some places. Then, I started
planting the grass. First, I glued some tufts,
made of cut brush bristle, here and there.
Next, I sprinkled Polak electrostatic grass of
various length and colour. Vegetation was
fixed with airbrushed Uni-Grunt priming
emulsion. The areas with trampled down
grass were corrected with lighter pigments
and the grass was gently dry-brushed with
Vallejo Light Green. Tracks were made with
a sharp scriber. The only thing left to do,
was to glue the miniature to the vignette
with thick CA glue and add some pigments
to make it more cohesive.
tHe enD FIGURes
Both figures are from MiniArt set. Although they looked quite well, I decided
that sharpening some details would do
them good, as would the replacement of
the heads with resin ones. Thus prepared
figures were primed with Tamiya beige.
The real painting was done with the reliable Vallejo Model Color acrylics. In both
cases I started with painting the trousers
with thinned Russian Uniform, which in recesses was darkened by consecutive layers
of Black Glaze, while the folds were highlighted with the base colour mixed with Silver Gray. The cap was treated in the same
way. Jacket, worn by one of the armour
crewmen, was painted with Brown Green,
and shaded similarly to the trousers. The
second figure was dressed in a black leather
jacket, the folds of which were enliven with
a mixture of black and blue. The same was
done with the boots worn by both Soviets. The map case straps were corrected
by cutting and glueing new ones, because
the original ones didnt fit the figure well. All
leather elements of the gear were covered
with bronze brightened with Silver Grey.
Faces and hands were coloured according
to Ortizs formula with Brown Sand, Flat
Flesh and Burnt Cadmium Red. Hair was
painted with light beige and then washed
with Brown Glaze. When all the details
and shades were painted, I fixed them with
a few layers of Mr. Color clear matt. The
complete figures were glued with CA to
the base and the joints were retouched
with pigments to make them look natural.
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
KIts AnD
AFteRMARKet
ACCessoRIes:
FIsH
CHI ,
Ps,
&to
oLs
CHeMICALs:
63
www.kagero.pl
t-55
ukasz Orczyc-Musiaek
66
tHe KInG
tH
oF BALKAn
o
BAttLeFIeLDs
B
ACCoRDInG to soMe
soURCes, ALMost
100,000 t-54 AnD t-55
MAIn BAttLe tAnKs
WeRe BUILt AnD
UseD BY UP to 50
ARMIes WoRLDWIDe.
wenty years ago, Europe was shaken by the bloodiest war since the
end of the global conflict in 1945.
The former neighbours Serbs, Croats and
Bosnians stood against each other. The
Balkans ran with blood of thousands and
entire cities were reduced to rubble.
Armed forces of all the belligerents based
their military strength on the equipment
taken over after the break up of Yugoslavia. There are hundreds of photos of old
T-34/85, T-55, T-72 and other, not only
Russian vehicles on the Internet. All sides
of the conflict used every vehicle capable
of moving to strengthen their forces. It
can be said, that that conflict is a treasure
trove of ideas for a modeller interested in
modern military vehicles. It sounds a bit
awkward, but it is true.
67
BUILDInG BLoCKs
The excellent fit of Tamiya kits can be easily compared to LEGO bricks, so there
is no need to write anything more about
that. Generally, building the kit out of
the box shouldnt take more than three
evenings. Naturally, if we assume that we
start after supper and finish around midnight, which gives us about four hours
a day.
The offer presented by producers of various aftermarket sets is tempting. If one
wanted to build a de luxe version of
68
69
they all make the model look like a replica of a real vehicle.
I started with the chassis. First, I airbrushed the initial coating of dust.
I usually use US Field Drab paint for that.
Only after that step, I used the pigments.
In case of tracks these were MIG Track
Brown, Europe Dust, Russian Earth and
Dark Mud. I applied them more or less
in that order to finally fix them with MIG
Pigment Fixer. To speed up the drying
process, I used a hair dryer. I am more
and more convinced that it is an essential tool in the modellers workshop. The
wheels were treated in a similar fashion,
but I didnt use Track Brown pigment
there. Then I could attach the entire suspension system to the model. The tracks
were attached to the wheels, simulating
their slack (although on one side they
are almost completely hidden) and finally
I glued the rubber side-skirts which were
prepared earlier.
The time had come to start the proper
dust covering. The aforementioned
set of pigments was supplemented with
Dry Mud, Rubbel Dust and Light European Earth. With such a set, I managed
to achieve the desired effect on all the
models surfaces. Additionally, I applied
exhaust marks with Agama black pigment. Most of the vertical streaks were
made with pigments diluted with water,
while some others with MIG Rainmarks.
Greasy stains were made with MIG Thinner for Washes mixed in various proportions with the same MIG Oil and Grease
Stain Mixture. Pigments were also used
to imitate rust on the spare track links.
The DShK heavy machine gun and towing cables were dry-brushed with metalizer. Finally, with a knifes blade I made
fine cuts on the side-skirts, imitating small
scratches, like those made by roadside
brushes.
71
72
ePILoGUe
I am not going to write that building that kit was pure entertainment, assembly was
excellent and I will build it again someday. I always chuckle to myself when I read things
like that at the end of an article, since I am convinced that majority of the authors
does not do such things! There is no need to mention that it was another valuable
experience, because it is obvious. However, I have already opened another box and
this time it is not a tank!
73
74
75
76
FIsH
CHI ,
Ps,
&to
oLs
77
more in
toPsHots 33
t-55A
www.sklep.kagero.pl
Przemysaw Szymczyk
31 years old, I live in d, Poland. My
adventure with scale models had started at
the age of 10, couple of years later I gave up
the hobby and returned to it about 8 years
ago. Im mostly focused on AFV models and
figures (Im also a beginner sculptor), but aint
avoiding other domains of this wonderful
hobby.
ukasz Kapelski
My modelling adventure started a few years
ago after an accidental visit in a hobby shop.
Colourful boxes drew me forever. I prefer
to build WW2 armoured vehicles in 1:35
scale, but also dont avoid 1:72 and 1:48
kits. I like to place my models on dioramas
or vignettes as I feel that even a small base
enhances the visual impact of my works.
Rafa Bulanda
Ive become a modeller many years ago.
I usually build 1:35 scale AFV kits, but
sometimes I choose other subjects like
sci-fi spacecraft or civil motorcycles. Recently
I also started to scratch build due to the lack
of certain models on the market. Music and
film are my other passions. I work in the
printing industry.
ukasz Orczyc-Musiaek
My first kit was made almost 20 years ago
and it was a paper plane. So far I have built
a lot of models but my favourite are AFVs
and figures in 1:35 scale. All my models are
parts of collections all over the world and this
makes me feel proud. Apart from modelling
Im also a motorbike enthusiast.