FLAT PATTERN MAKING

EiTEX, BDU,
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Ethiopia.

Flat Pattern Making

Prof.Dr.S.Kathirrvelu

PATTERN MAKING

Pattern making is an
art. It is the art of
manipulating

and

fabric to conform to one

or more curves of the

Flat Pattern Making

shaping a flat piece of

human figure .

Pattern making is a
bridge function between
design and production.

PATTERN MAKING
A sketch can be
turned into a garment
via a pattern which
interprets the design
in the form of the
garment components
(Cooklin).
Now a days
sophisticated software
programs are used
forpattern making.

Flat Pattern Making

BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING

A pattern is flat while the body is

not. The body has height, width and
depth.
Darts are the basis of all pattern
making. They convert the flat piece of
cloth into a three dimensional form,
which fits the bulges of the body.

Flat Pattern Making

A patternmaker typically makes a

pattern from a flat sketch with
measurements or a two dimensional
fashion illustration.

BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING

The basic pattern is the very

foundation
pattern

upon

making,

which
fit

and

The

basic

pattern

is

the

starting point for flat pattern

designing.

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design are based.

It is a simple pattern that fits

the body with just enough
ease

for

movement

and

comfort (Shoben and Ward).

HISTORY OFPATTERN MAKING

Prior tothe Industrial Revolution the art of

patternmaking was highly revered.

personal measurements to customize patterns

Clothing made by tailors was elaborate and

relegated only to the very rich.

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Tailors meticulously worked with their client's

HISTORY OFPATTERN MAKING

With the onset ofthe Industrial Revolution,
standardized patterns were essential to the
success of ready-to-wear clothing.
Initial attempts to create standardized patterns
resulted in poorly fitting garments with little
detail.
After lengthy experimentation and standardized
sizing, patternmaking made a triumphant
transformation from customization to
standardization.

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HISTORY OFPATTERN MAKING

Computers have been used by apparel companies

since the early 1980's.
Pattern

Design

Systems

(PDS)

have

become

invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in

much

of

the

repetitive

tasks

associated

with

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patternmaking.

PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible

amount of data that can be quickly retrieved, tweaked
and re-filed.

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HISTORY OFPATTERN MAKING

Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able

to swiftly add style details and make changes.
There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy
and ease of data transmission being some of the
most obvious.

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In today's competitive environment, software

companies

are

zeroing

in

on

the

growing

demands of the apparel manufacturer.

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HISTORY OFPATTERN MAKING

Current

research

focuses

on

generating

patterns that produce better fitting garments

style.
With

on going technological advancesand

diligent

research,

patternmaking

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and 3D visualization tools to help fine tune

software

companies continue to successfully address the

needs of their customers.
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METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING

Pattern making involves three methods-

Drafting

2.

Draping

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3.

1.

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 The

right fit is key to gaining consumer confidence

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and loyalty.

Once a brands target fit has been defined, it must

advantage.

Flat pattern making, whendone correctly, provides

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be wielded intelligently to maintain a competitive

the code to this integral part of a brands DNA and

helps ensure competitiveness in a challenging
market place.
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FLAT PATTERN MAKING

A

sloper is a pattern that has no seam

allowances or style lines.

a sloper a myriad of garment styles

can be generated.
The

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From

patternmaker creates a new style by

adding design details such as a collar,

pocket and pleats.
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DESIGNING APPAREL THROUGH THE FLAT

PATTERN
The rapid output of new flat
pattern designs, facilitated by
slopers, is a useful skill for any
fashion designer.
Flat pattern can be use as a
means of developing original
ideas effectively and efficiently.
Flat pattern is use of the three
basic slopers
waist,
sleeve and skirt
and some popular variations of
these such as the kimono waist,
raglan sleeves and pants.

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THE FLAT PATTERN METHOD

The flat pattern method uses twelve basic pattern

slopers that are manipulated by the patternmaker to
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achieve a desired style or design.

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FLAT PATTERN MAKING

It involves the development of a fitted basic
pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body
form.
A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern
designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just
enough ease for movement and comfort

Flat Pattern Making

(Pattern Cutting & Making Up Vol. 1

Shoben and Ward).
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FLAT PATTERN MAKING

Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They
include

1.

bodice back with darts

3.

a basic neckline,

4.

a sleeve

5.

a fitted skirt front and back with darts.

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2.

a snug-fitting bodice front

However, as fashion changes frequently women's styles

fluctuate frequently.
. These

basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.

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PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

"Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the
correctly sized pieces needed to make a complete
garment.
For many smaller manufacturers, pattern
making is still done on paper because the cost of
computerized systems remains prohibitive.
The patternmaker may use one of the following
techniques to develop a sample pattern.
1. They may "manipulate" a new pattern by using
geometric rules to modify or alter existing
pattern pieces.

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PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

2

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They may translate a

design that has been
"draped" and pinned on a
dress form by converting
the shapes of the draped
garment sections
intopaper patternpieces.
They may pin pieces of
muslin to a garment being
copied and rub tailor's
chalk over the seams and
darts, making a "muslin
rub." The chalk markings
are then used to create a
flat paper pattern.

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PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

From this initial pattern, a sample garment is

developed.
The sample process allows a designer to correct any
problems inherent in translating a one-dimensional
sketch into a two-dimensional garment; it ensures

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that the designer's fabric yardage specifications are

accurate; and it provides an opportunity to spot
potential production problems inherent in a design.
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 Once

PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

the sample is made, the manufacturer

makes a small batch of duplicates for its sales

garment goes into larger volume production.
Although

many firms still make patterns by

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force to test market. If they sell well, the

hand, larger manufacturers make production

patterns on a computer using CAD software.
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PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

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Other systems have been developed that allow

patternmakers to create patterns manually by
using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus
attached to a computer. As the patternmaker
indicates points with the stylus, the pattern
pieces are automatically entered into theCAD
system where they can immediately be accessed
for grading and marking.

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BASIC TOOLS FOR APPAREL

PATTERNMAKING

Having the right tools for making a pattern is a

super important place to start.Luckily, most tools
are not expensive and are easy to get.
Heres the quick list.
1) Large scale paper
2) Clear Gridded Ruler
3) Flexible Design Rule
4) Hip/Arm Curve (Styling Design Ruler)
5) Pencil and a good Eraser
6) Large pins
7) Cork panels
8) Flexible Measuring Tape
9) Basic sewing book

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1. LARGE SCALE PAPER

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Such as butcher paper

(18 wide on long
rolls), banner paper
(18 wide roll and
often sold with
school/office supplies),
patterning paper (3648 wide, sold by
stores that sell
patterning tools or
cater to high end
sewing and tailoring).

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2. CLEAR GRIDDED RULER

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These rulers are pretty easy to

find at most craft stores.
The most common size seems to
be 18x2 which is a great size to
start with. This style of ruler
comes in many sizes and shapes.
The variety comes in handy and
the more you pattern (and figure
out who you are as a
designer)you will want to grow
your collection by buying rulers
to fulfill certain needs and uses.
The 12x1 ruler is extremely
useful when adding seam
allowances to small pieces or
sharp curves.

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3. FLEXIBLE DESIGN RULE (FLEXIBLE

RULER)

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This rule can be curved into

specific shapes and you use
this to measure curved
lines. They are often placed
with quilting notions in
fabric stores and, like
gridded rulers, can also be
found with graphic design
tools. For most versatile
use, make sure you get one
that has a built in ruler.

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4. HIP/ARM CURVE

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These are becoming

easier to find in
sewing stores. This
tool is designed to give
you the best smooth,
consistent hip and
arm curves with little
effort. You
dontneedthis tool
but it make
patterning easier!

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5. PENCIL AND A GOOD ERASER

We want to use pencil when
patterning so lines can be
erased and re-drawn.
Mechanical pencils are a
better option because of
their incredibly consistent
line width.
A good eraser is an
imperative also. We will
want a good eraser to
cleanly remove old lines
leaving no marks behind
that could confuse us later
on.

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6. LARGE PINS
Large pins come in
handy when patterning
(especially when use with
cork panels).
They are used to secure
overlapped layers of
paper when we check to
make sure our lines flow
well as well as to transfer
marks from one layer of
paper to another.
They are great when we
move or add fullness
(darts, flares, etc).

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7. CORK PANELS
Most large stores that
sell office/school
supplies sell cork
panels.
They are meant to be
used as bulletin
boards without frames
but it can be use as
great work surface
when we need to
rotate our pattern
pieces to move darts
or add fullness.

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8. FLEXIBLE MEASURING TAPE

When making patterns
whether they are custom
fit or you are working
with a generic
block/sloper we will
need to measure to
determine the proper
sizing, proper proportions,
or ideal placement of
certain aspects and
details.
Keeping a flexible
measuring tape handy
will be an asset.

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9. PATTERNING BOOK (NOT

PICTURED)
There are several very
good books for creating
our own sewing
patterns available in
market.
There are a few
different ways to
approach patterning
and well have to figure
out which techniques
are best for our body
type and working style.

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PATTERN MAKING IN TODAYS

WORLD
Pattern making today has
become an easy job with
the use of the computers.
Now-a-days different soft
wares are available in the
market to meet the needs
of the manufacturers.
The different soft wares
used areGerber, Lectra,
Tukatech , OptiTex etc.
These softwares has made
the job of the Pattern
master easier.

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PATTERN MAKING IN TODAYS

WORLD
They have made the
process of pattern making
more economical and less
time consuming.
Pattern-making soft wares
enables you to input your
measurements and draft
out a pattern. These soft
wares draft patterns to fit
your measurements
specifically, eliminating
much fitting trial and
error in the sewing room.

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PATTERN MAKING IN TODAYS WORLD

A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few

steps by using these soft wares. An individual's
measurements are collected from 3D body scanner.
model of the individual's body.

The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a

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The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D

garment surface in relation to the 3D body model.

Once the garment surface is defined, the application
automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern
in .dxf format.

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CONCLUSION

Although pattern making is becoming increasingly

computerized, patternmakers still must learn the
manual method because making patterns manually
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develops an advanced understanding of garment

construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced
by a computer.

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READY-TO-WEAR

The flat patternmaking method is widely used

in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast
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and accurate

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REFERENCES
Aldrich, Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting.
Blackwell Science Ltd U.K.
Armstrong H.J, 2000, Pattern Making for Fashion
Design, Harper & row publishers, New York
Cooklin, G.1994, Pattern Cutting for Womens
Outerwear
Hudson, P.B, 1980, The role of fit and Fashion on
Apparel Quality, Bobbin.
Shoben, M.M and J.P. Ward, 1999, Pattern cutting
and Making up, CBS Publishers, New Delhi
Helen Stanley, 1991, Flat pattern cutting &
modeling for fashion, U.K

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THANK YOU VERY

MUCH

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