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- 830 BERNINA Guide DDHDDDRODRD SSH HHH OP em Remy ye rR eee pepe erm espom E Table of contents a) as aw ae wD nscale bea fe ini acaiancch db ddesci end bvmad duel end ed Mc beak teed is et 3 a) Page Page ‘Adjusting stitch length 8 Flat seam 18 Applique work 42-43 Flower designs 4a ‘Automatic patterns 18 Gathering of material 28 and 41 ‘Automatic stitches “4 Gusset seam 8 Basting 25 Hemmer 38 Blind-heme 24 Heme in Jersey material 16 Bobbin and bobbin case 4 Hemstitching 52 Breakdowns 61-62 Hemstitch needle 52 Buttonhole gauge 63 Hints 1 Buttonholes 26 Inserting the bobbin 6 Buttonholes with cord Ea Inserting zips 35 Changing presser feet 7 Jersey repairs 7 Gircular embroidery a Jersey seams 18 Cleaning and olling 82 Lace on Jersey a Corded buttonholes 7 Lace in material 22 Gordonnet 59 Lap hemmer 4 Darning 29-20 Lifter 9 Darning tine socks 30 Lowering drop feed contro! 6 Darning sleeves 30 Lycra seams 9 Darning Terry Cloth 33 Monograms 58 Darning with woo! 33 Neatening seams 8 Double hemstiteh needs 53 Needle position 2 Double needle 50 Olling 56 Edgings — Fancy at Overlock 20 Edging with gimp 5 Overeewing brodors 48 Elastic seams 19 Oversewing with cord 48 Elastic thread 23 Oversewing with metallic thread 46 Elastic waistband 21 Patching 2B Electrical connections 3 Patching Jersey 7 Embroidery designs 4 Patching materiat 28 Embroidery with the automatic 46-49 Pattern indicator 18 Eyelet or English embroidery 56-57 Pintucking st Finishing of seams 13 Pre-embroidered applique 52 Flat joining seam 9 Quick seam 18 Bernina record model 830 Plain, zigzag, utility and embroidery machine, 20 built-in cams and automatic buttonholer Bernina mode! 831 Plain, zigzag and utilty machine with automatic buttonholer Page Reverse sowing 2 Roverse stitching 2 Ruche 52 Saddle stitch 60 Satin stiten 8 Satin atitch embroidery 45 Scissors holding w Sacuring threads 12 Sowing elastic thread 23 ‘Sawing on buttons 34 ‘Sewing table 7 Srell Edging 2 Shell hemmer 89 Straight stitch 2 Stretch stitch 18-21 Tailor tacking 36 Terry Cloth Daring 33 ‘The various parts of the machine 2 ‘Thread correct holding 6 ‘Thread cutter 7 Threading machine 6 ‘Thread table 4 Trellis work with metallic thread 82 Tricot hems: 18 Tricot patching v7 Tricot repairs 7 Tricot seams ® ‘Unpacking and packing the machine 3 Viaving on Jersey 16 Winding bobbin thread 4 Woo! darning 33 Zigzag sewing 13 Zip insertion 35 er ee a & a ira bes oe @ 6 ) bw O66 oo © © & Hw sithsal atl sh escuile eacd cd ed ce tl ne dd a ie General information Max. zigzag width 45mm ‘Stitch distribution left—center— right Max. forward stitch fength 4mm Max. reverse stitch lenath 2mm Presser foot ift 65mm Passage space 110% 200 mm Size of baseplate ‘Shuttle system 875X182. mm rnon-jam central bobbin shuttle Bobbin capacity 75 m cotton yarn Needle system 705 B ‘Thread tension inbuilt controlled upper thread tension assembly Winder solt-releasing Motor power: 85 watte Sewing lamp (built-in) power: 15 watts Number of stitches approx. 1200 stitches/min, Weight of machine approx. 9.15 kg Weight complete with carrying case approx. 15 kg Machine dimensions: overal ength 388 mm overall widih te2mm helght over adjusting lever 315 mm Important note (safety regulations — BEAB, OSHA etc.) ig a source of danger (danger of injury to fingers). without supervision and during servicing (cleaning). eee Please observe the sewing position while sewing. The moving needle ‘The sewing machine shoald be disconnected from the power supply by pulling out the plug from the socket when changing the light bulb, the needle, presser foot, Dobbin or needle plate, when stopping work Name: Address: Date of delivery: Machine No. Dear Bernina Customer, You are now the fortuna:e owner of a new Bernina! We con- gratulate you on your choice and thank you for the confidence you have placed in us. We have called this introductory Tuition Book «My Bernina Guide» because we are convinced that it will enable you to make the best use of your sewing machine in the years ahead. We hope that you will find it an invaluable ald to your sewing, Very soon you will be thrilled by the easy uperation uf your Bernina and by its extrene versatility. But only if you master the techniques described in this book will you experience the true pleasure of sewing, and creating for yourself attractive and Useful articles. We advise you, therefore, to follow the text and study the illustrations In this book carefully while practising individual samples. If you glue your most successful samples in the appropriate spaces printed in red, you will provide yourself with a very useful reference book that will serve you for life We wish you every success in your future sewing, Fr. Gegauf Lid., Manufacturer of Bert Steckborn TG/Switzerland '@ Sewing Machines The various parts of the machine [oan avaas ac 45 16 17 18 BRBRBER Free-arm cover-plate Needle-piate Presser-foot Needle-clamp ‘Thread guide Face-plate Lamp switch Take-up lever Thread tension and thread guide Tension indicator window ‘Thread tension control whee! Winder pre-tension Ornamental stitch indicator window Selector lovor for plain or ornamental stiteh ‘On and off lever for automatic patterns, Bobbin winder spindle Bobbin winder starting lover Handwheet ‘Adjusting knob for straight stitch and igzag Left-Center-Right adjusting knob (needle position) Knob for buttonhole sewing Stitch length adjustment Drop-feed contro! Aperture for knee contro! lever Base plate Free-arm Hinged cover (shuttle) CP Pe eS Oe 8 ® oo ® oO @ ¥ w Unpacking and packing the machine Electrical Connection Ab ch wali 7 w fas aoe al fh scl wow ol ce ee oe e * wo w wainioaieied disaclel wesld w ‘Sewing machine with foot starter, attach- ment table, knee control lever and accessory box are included in the case. To unpack the machine, the case is best placed on the floor. After opening the locks, one half of the case can be laid flat. It is then easy to remove the Bernina and place It at the desired workplace. The container, which can be fitted on the free-arm, is used to house the foot starter with’ cable and the Bernina Guide. Ensure when packing that the machine is properly placed in the case. ‘The illustration in the lid of the case shows the correct way. If the machine is wrongly packed the case will not close. Connecting to supply Warning! First compare voltage speci- fled on machine with the existing mains voltage. Fit special plug on foot-starter. After Inserting the special combination plug ‘for mains and starter connection in the machine, only then connect the mains plug with the socket and start the ma- chine by pressing lightly on the foot board of the starter. Warning! The special connecting cable may only be used for connecting Ber nina sewing machines. Please ensure that the cable is not pulled when removing the special plug from the machine. Hold the plug in the hand, Never lift the foot control by the cable. ‘This machine Is fitted with an electronic, foot regulator. The “electronic speed control permits extrémely slow sewing ‘on full power. Light switch. By pressing switch (7) the light can be switched on and off. Pull out light cover sideways to change the bulb. Press bulb upwards, turn anti- [ clockwise and pull downwards. To in- sert bulb push up and turn it clockwise. Sewing lamp: 18 watts, | Bobbin and Case Winding of thread on bobbin Removing the bobbin case Open hinged bobbin case cover. Turn hand wheel towards you until the needle is in its highest position. Open the hinged lateh with thumb and forefinger of the left Imad and renove the bobbin case. The insertion of the bobbin case is carried out in the same Needle and thread table fine 70 50 30-50 medium 80 50 30 very fine strong 20 40 Neodle system 705 B Mercerised sewing thread (8 ply) 50 100 40 Darning thread (2 ply) Correct choice of needle and thread Use only needle system 7058 for the Bernina machine class 830. Make sure that both, needle and thread correspond with the sewing table given above. The usual needle numbers for sewing are 60, 90 and 100. For damning, needle num- bors 70 and £0. Winding of thread on bobbin Loosen handwhee!: Hold handwheel with the left hand. Loosen the handwheel release with the right hand by turning anti-clockwise. large add nad bral eit from there — as shown in the illu tion — take it to the mounted bobbi Press lever (17) towards the botbin, the winder is switched on. Start motor with foot starter. When the bobbin is full the’ winding action stops automatically siti) citi) th ell aclu cl aad West diced det lo ted ad read nad Inserting the bobbin Insertion of bobbin into the bobbin case. When the bobbin is In the case make sure that the thread unwinds in the di- rection of the arrow. Draw thread through slot and then under tension spring. Do not hold the bobbin. F ‘The bobbin must turn in the direction of the arrow when unwinding. Insertion of the bobbin case into the hook. Raise needle to top position by turning the handwheel. As when remov- ing the bobbin case hold it by hinged latch with thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Hold bobbin case in such a ‘way that the finger arm is directed up- wards and fits into the notch of the | hook race cover. ‘Check: Pull end of thread. | To thread the machine l & The thread tension discs. Bernina has the unique advantage that during normal sewing the thread tension does not have to be altered, The tension centering wheel (11) can be regulated for special purposes. Four your guidance: Normal fonsion= Black line in center of win- dow. + in center = Tighter tension. ~ in contor = Loser tension. Inserting the needle. Loosen the needle clamp screw (##) half a tum. Push the Bringing up the bottom thread. Hold noodle upwards as far as it will go with needle thread loosely. Now turn the the flat side of the needle to the rear. handwheel towards you, until the take- Tighten needle clamp screw. Sina up lever is in its highest position, Pull the needle thread slightly and the bobbin ‘thread will come up through the needle hole. Pull both threads under the pres- ser foot and lay them sideways. ‘Threading the machine. The th-ead is guided from the spool to the needle fone movement. Presser foot and take- up lever must be in their highest posi- : tion. Place spool on pin. Guide the dog must be lowered. thread with the left hand through the | a eyelet then pull it through the slot of the tonsion disc (49). With the right hand hold the spool steady. Lowering the feed dog. For certain types. Darning, For this turn the mark on knob (28) to the left, towards the damning symbol. For normal sewing turn the mark fon the knob to the right as far as it will 0 towards the straight stitch and zig- zag symbol Now draw thread through the thread guide (5) up to the slot of the take up lever (8) and down to the neecle eye. ‘Thread the needle from the front to the back leaving @ loose end of epprox- mately 10 om (4 ins.) If the presser foot with the white plate Isattached, threading through the needle is greatly simplified (see also page 9). Of sewing, in particular darning, the feed | i diced esa dl el du fel enel dd i ed wa ll lie silted ln all s = a) 4 The sewing table 13 eaaLettt Changing the presser feet Removing work. It is essential to bring the take-up lever (8) into its highest po- sition by use of the handwheel when sewing is finished, Raise presser foot by means of the lever at the back of the machine; this will reloaso the top thread tension and the material can bo removed ‘easily by pulling to the rear or side, Note: Never pull fabric straight out. ‘Thread cutter. The lever on he presser foot bar is made in such @ way that it can be used as a thread cutter. This ‘small device helps to save tine, espe- cially when scissors, are not close at | hand, Fitting the sewing tapie. Ine anachment tables is fitted in the case. It can be removed by tuning the securng strap. When sliding the table on the free arm, ‘make sure that the locking lever is turned to the lefl. To secure the sewing table the lever must be tured to the right in the direction of the arrow. tented Bernina presser foot clamping lever permits quick and easy changes. The Bernina principle: “just clip it on!” the work is done in no time, Raise presser foot by using lifting lever __ Loosen clamping lever and release | presser foot, Fix the required presser. foot on and push lever downwards, The presser foot is secured and the machine is ready for sewing, Only Bernina has this advan |. tage. 5 I Satin Stitch — Zigzag sewing stiteh length close to | | Needle position: conver Zigzag width 145 Zigzag sewing The line on the zigzag knob (19) allows the zigzag width to be read on the scale behind. Setting the machine for the zigzag width: use knob 19. The. sointer on zigzag knob (19) indicates the zigzag width on tho dial behind. For straight stitching the pointer on the knob is set to 0. Turning the knob to the right from 0-4 the width of the stitch will Increase. The larger the number the wider the stitch. While sewing, the krob may be moved freely, But never turn the knob when the needle is still in the fabric. Set stiteh length adjustment knob (22) to zero. Then set to the desired stitch donsity by turning lett depending on the material and thread. It Is best to sew a trial buttonhole on remnants of the material used. Before starting to sew please always ensure that the marker of the buttonhole knob (21) is at position «0», The 20 different ‘ornamental stitches that can be made with the Bernina class 830 Overtock ‘Stretch stitch Universal stitch Running stitch Blind stitch 20) as) «ay a) (18) (15) 14) (13) (12) ay (19) o @) ” 6 6 4 | @ @ m4 ow @ we @ DOOD onnwn ym Knee control / Lifter Your Bernina machine has an attach- able knee control lever. This knee lifter will be a welcome aid In many sewing operations. You will particularly appre |= clate this device for embroidery work. You can guide the work exactly with both hands since your “third hand”, the knee, takes care of raising and lowering of the presser foot The knee lifter lever is secured in the case and can easily be removed from | its clamp. a wo Inserting the knee lever beneath the The presser foot with the white plate drop feed knob. Is a Bernina innovation. Set the needle with the handwheel high enough so that the eye of the needle is In front of the white surface. The eye becomes much more clearly visible and threading is thereby made considerably simpler. @ © @ i w thie selina meando ede eid el cd ®@o&66w The presser foot is raised by pressing to the right (in direction of arrow), thee 4 a w Some technical hints i aw il ad ct dil ad a we etd ae @ @ @ & w& oe 66 8 & & Pal laste ni tenia bead camel ad basal ow If you like to work as comfortably as possible we would advise you to observe the following points: Place your Bernina far enough from the table edge (about 4 inches) for you to lean your left elbow on the table even when using the silde-on sewing plate which makes sewing easier. Sit exactly in front of the needle bar. The mastering of your sewing depends only on how you guide the material. ‘The basic rules are therefore: 1. Guide the material as close as possible from the side, and near the presser foot 2... not from the front 3, ... and not with the hand flat. Nor myst the material be pulled to the rear. 7 | i Zigzag foot 000 Needle: || normally 20 at times 70-100 depending on the || material and thread Thread: adapted to the fabric sewn Straight stitch Stitch width: 19) 0 Stitch length: (22) 1-4 Needle positian: (#20) center Feed control: " ‘Automatic: Owmw Ge 14) and MW. (#18) Tet center right Set stitch length lever at desired length. Normal stitch length: about 1%—-2 Needle position With the needie position knob 20 the needle can be set at right or at left for buttonholes, blind hemming zippers, etc. For normal sewing the needle remains in the conter. Reverse sewing and securing threads For reverse stitching push stitch length lever (22) upward (where no numbers are marked). Securing in thick seams (Gtitch length not too short) Before stitching in reverse always leave the needle completely down in the ma- terial, then move lever to reverse sew- ing. The seme applies when sewing forward again on Qe e ® ODOT WH DT W a ® ® oa ® o » 2 2a i i 3° Zigzag sewing i: : = 33 eccaaaeeaee . | ooo = | | <2. | normaty 20 s | PA || eettmes 70 100 s «4 al | Seponaing on re os ; i 28) | those 3 | adapted to the S g “3 i | fabric sewn = g if possible 50 = = S Guide the cut edge under the caner of 5 | a2 the foot so that the needle actually | goes once into the material and once | g sm outside. aa zigzag not too wide, stitch length not | Ja to0 long. First trim the edga neatly = | ] | S 2a) | = 33 3 33 = la = et zag wicth (18) according 10 | ag] wore ane nto 2 1 | Fntins eos i “TS | ton wiath: 19) 25-4 ag] tien nom 22) 12 1 ‘Needle position: It you guide the work like this: From the 3 2 ig) Automatic; O wnt E14) front, close to the foot, fingers on the : eee and mw (#18) edge, you will easly got a neat finish s2 — | i t | Automatic stitches - {wR EMM UNMEOEP NEATH NBME VV AREY NWA | | : > When embroidering always us the slide-on sawing table 0 that the work can enter everly under the foot. Pushing of pulling produces irregular patterns. TRI —————— nemo = 2 [ : ea | 8 Embroidery foot 080 Needle: 80-70 Embroidery thread: 20 Automatic To connect the autonatic patterns: push lever 18 to rear {away from you). Pul lever 14 to right and set it next to desired pattern. When doing this do not leave the needle down in the material. Stitch width: (#19) 4 Stitch length: (4# 22) almost 0 Needle position: (#20) center Feod control: Paper underlay when needed Satin stitch (Close zigzag) ‘Stitch width: (#19) 4—1% Stitch length: (#22) almost 0 Needle position: (##20) center ‘Automatic: Ow (14) and AW (HE 15) Feed control: By turning the stitch length knob (22) the satin stitch spacing can be finely regulated. Gee also page 8.) ar ro wn Automatic patterns jacsd Nl inal daa liad hd al Ol Os aed ad dad ad te When embroidering it is advisatle to lay paper underneath to prevent the material from puckering. (D0 not use tissue paper, as this is too soft. Typewr ting paper Is excellent.) works very well and it is not necessary to use paper under- neath. Note: Use “spray starch” when fabric permits using it. This | | a Patiern indicator The pattern indicator 13 shows the po- sition of a pattern. Every time the red line reaches the center, one pattern Is finished and another started, (Indicator isc makes one complete rotation.) This indicator is especially useful when embroidering borders, making up stars and flowers, ete., and when combining Aiferent patterns together. ale af. | OOK ‘| Hems on Jersey material 1 I 1 | | | Zigzag foot 000 Neadlie: 89-70 Thread: 30 oF 50 Needle position: (#20) ‘Automatic: Feed control Single tunedin hems. Stitch with: (3 19) Stiteh length: (# 22) Double turned-in hems Stiteh width: (#4 19) Stitch fength: (4 22) w Heme for Jersey underwear center D www 14) sand MW '3 78) mn 3 VWs 2h VW The Waving of Jersey To prevent the Jersey from waving, guide an extra thread inside the zigzag, (Not only for hems but whenever jersey stretches, e. 9. patching, oversewing, ete) Press with a damp cloth before remov- ing the extra thread. How to hold the extra thread Not like this, because you obscure the view of the work. But like this: This way the view is clear and the work can be guided easily. Important Hold the thread slightly taut while sew- Ing and the Jersey will not stretch so ‘much. ‘Tho thread can also be guided through the holo in the needle plate like pintuck cord. See page 81. (Especially useful for a large patch.) of 2 DT POTTS © a Patching Jersey Zigzag foot 000 Needle: 80~70 Thread: 90 or 50 Patching Jersey Stitch width: (#19) about 3 Stitch length: (4 22) 11% Noodle position: (#20) center How not to hold the scissors Whenever you have {2 trim close to a zigzag the scissors should not be held lke this (with the backs of the hands towards you). There s a risk that you might cut into the ‘Automatic: Own AE 14) and nw 18) oat Feed contro! rs Baste the new piece on to the right side of the work, then sow it on, first with the 2lgzag Just covering the edge, then a second time one presse” foot width from the first seam, For cotton Jorsey use the extra thread to avold waving, Afterwards cut the damaged piece out ‘on the wrong side. (Hold the scissors correctly.) Whenever possible make the patches in round shapes. A When square patches are unavoidable at least the corners, should be rounded. clin dao dod dual diol read dia wal dahl a aad dali esl aie coal This way is much easier. Palm of the hand towards you holding the scissors quite flat!!! Cut only with the points of the scissors. The thumb cf the left hand should be close to the ‘seam just where the scissors are cutting al esd eli 7 Elastic seams on Jersey Zigzag foot 000 Needle: 80-70 ‘Thread: 80 Four important points when sewing Jersey 4. Baste always with damning thread. 2. Use only a perfect needle. A blunt needle leaves holes. aw wamanl “ 3, Use fine mercerised thread. 4, Press each seam after sewing and | not all seams together when the work is completed. | oy Seams on Jersey Needle position: center Feed contol owe Automat: ww (Hh 14) and MWC 1S) Quick seam Stitch width: (#19) 3-4 Stitch length: (#28) Ys—t Automatic: Blindstitch (Pattern No. 1) and lever 15 at 1-20 Joins up and oversows simultaneously. Important! Cut edges must be on left. Flat Seam — Cotton Jersey Underwear 4st run: join up at ono presser foot width. th width: 1 (4448) Stitch lenath: 11's (422) 2nd run: press seam open and sew over it on right side, Stitch width: 3 (4 19} Stitch lenath: 11% (422) To finish off cut the remaining material. Hold the scissors correctly. Gusset Seam 4st un Stitch width 1: Stich length: 1=1%/: Pin the pieces togetrer leaving the double layer (gusset) | protruding about Y inch. Sew at one presser foot width from the inner edge. 2nd run Stitch width $: Stitch length: 1—1"/2 Press the whole sean towards single layer of Jersey and ‘sew at one presser fcot Width along first seam on right side. ‘Trim off turnings. Hold scissors correctly Seams for Knitted Fabrics: Dresses — Skirts — Sweaters Stitch width: 1 (419) Stitch length: 1 (422) knitted fabries can bo joined up like other materials. Seams are pressed open bu: remain stretchy. € & GH ® ne & a Cr we w Very elastic seams ow if ad a ese ‘a w Zigzag foot 000 Needle: 80 Thread: Mercerised sewing thread $0~50 Flat joining seam Especially for Lycra fabric (@.g. Girdles) Stitch width: (#4 19) 2s Stitch length: (#22) /2—/4 ‘Automatic: Universal stten (Ne-3) and 120 Needle position: center Feed contro! nen Lay cut edges approximately %” over ‘each other, then oversew edges. ‘Stretch seam ‘or ski trousers and very elastic fabrics like Helanca, Crimplene etc. Stitch width: (38.19) 1-1 Siiteh length: (#22) 72% ‘Automatic: Stretch iN 4) and 1~20 (lever 19) Needle position: center Feed control: ak Sew tacked seam. (Lay the work under the presser foot in such a way that the somewhat wider zigzag stitch is direct- ed towards the cut edge.) Press seam open and If necessary overcast. Stretch seam as hem only for Jersey underwear, Stiteh width: (4 19) 3—4 Stitch length: (4+ 22) approx. 2 Automatic: Siretch (Ne 4) and 1=20 (lever 15), Needle position: center Feed control: ron hom. (Do not turn under the edge.) Measure depth of hem and then sew. ‘Lay the work under the presser foot so that the somewhat wider zigzag stitch 's directed towards the edge of the hem.) Finish by cutting away surplus ‘abric on the sewn edge. 2 Overlock |. || Overtock toot 4 | | the totoung point mum be observed |_| Synthetic fabrics should always be sewn | | with a synthetic thread. | | 2 vv VVVVVVVVVVV VV VV eo VV Overlock seam Stiteh width: (449) 4 Stitch length: (22) 05~2 Needle position: (#20) right Automatic: overlook (Nr. 5) | and 1-20 (#15) | Feed control: a ‘The overlock seam is used for sowing together and neatening in one operation. ‘Warning: material edye must lie to the right * om aay wr ® an aL 8 YY yoo oe ew w& ow a aw wo » sletwnslilced Veni isi ssl dei dana da asad dd Sl aad food bl bea al ead pow w& ae i Zigzag foot 000 Needle: 80-70 | ‘Thread: 50 Elastic band Stitch width: (#19) 3 Stitch length: (#4 22) 11% Needle position: (4#20) center Automatic: Universal stitch (Ne) and 1-20 Feed control Do not pull the elastic while sewing. ‘The zigzag stitch stretches as much as the elastic. Tho easiast way when sewing Jer- sey is to gather it up first, sewing ong straight stitches, then draw the under thread and pull work up to desired length. After this, pin on the olastic anc | sew it with zigzag. Trim off surplus | material on the wrong side. (Hold the scissors correctly.) Shell Edging Sitch width: (#19) 4 Stitch length: (4 22) 1 Needle position: (4#20) center Automatic: blindstiten (Pattern No. 1) and lever No. 18 at 1-20 Feed control: 1 Place folded edge to the left as for quick seam. Lace on Jersey ‘Stitch width: (# 19) Stitch length: (4# 22) Needle position: (#20) center Automatic: WMI and MAN Feed control Pin orbaste laceon and sew straight on with zigzag. Trim off surplus on wrong side along zigzag. Hold the scissors correctly. Lace on Jersey ~ Shell ecging 3 * Eagings | | | Zigzag toot o00 | | Need: 80—70 | ‘Thread: 50 | Lace (and insertion) | in material Needle position: (420) center | Automatic: www E14) | and AWW i915) | Feed contro! Mo | etn | Stitch width: (19) 0 | stiten length: (#22) about 4 Narrow edging | Pin in place, baste it and sew or with Baal gue aa ns ee ee Stitoh longth: (22) about hs aera Needle position: (#20) center ‘Automatic: Wir (E14) and ME 15) stltch wiath: (#19) 14 Food control according to lace Sitch length: (#22) about fe—''s Prepare and press turnings. Sew zigzag over this pressed edge as for oversewng. (Guide work as for oversewing.) | Finally trim away turnings. Hold scissors correctly. Fold turning to wrong side against straight stitch and press. Sew a zigzag ——————— seam over the straight stitch. Thon cut off the turnings along the zigzag seam. Hold the scissors correctly. | a On * 4 i 4 ] 4 1 J j i J ] 4 d 4 Elastic thread Gathering of material ; Thread: 30-60 | Applying elastic threed Stitch width: (#19) 2 sig Stitch length: (#22) 2 Noodle position: (#20) center ‘Automatic: Ova Ge 14) and tint (3 15) Feed control: ‘Thread the elastic through the hole in the embroidery foot and pull it while! sewing. The more you pull the more it gathers. For a secbnd row (one presser: foot width) pull material straiatt whil ‘sewing. When doing It on socks do not oull the elastic too much. Gathering material Stitch width: (4 19) 2 Stitch length: (#22) 2 (for heavy fabrics up to 4) Needle position: (#20) canter Feed control ma Automatic: (414) OWA end NW (3 18) Pearl Cord ‘The pearl cord is threaded through the hole of the em- broidery foot (as with elastic thread) and oversewn with zigzag. Contrary to slastic, the cotton is not pulled while sewing but only afterwards, (Hold both yarns and gather ma- terial) Always sew two rows at a distance of 2 em (% inch.) Normal gathering Short pieces or shoor fabrios can also be gathered in this way: sstiten width: E19) 0 Stiton length: (HF 22) 4 Sew two rows of straight stitch, then hold both bottom ‘threads and gather ip to the desired width, B Blind hem stitch Blindstiteh foot 016 Needle: 80-70 Darning thread: 50 Basic Setting Stitch width: E19) about 2% Stiteh length: (3 22) about 2% Needle position: (#20) right Feed control Autores Blindstitch tr ‘and 1-20 (lever 15) ‘Oversew and prepare the hem as dia- ‘gram, baste with machine or by hand from edge and press. ‘This is how the work is placed under the foat. Adjust the zigzag so that the needle just catches the edge of the fold. Very poor position. This is the correct way. Fingers of loft hand must lie on the folded edge so that they can “feo!” the regular feed- ing of the work. Hold the work very lightly while sewing, Ey ao » @ oo wo Dw wa a wa ww @o¢eobu ue Manila lsableclabdendat ach deccldenal deh lll el had hl ae Gee ed nal wal i itl oy Basting Zigzag toot 009] Magic needle Thread: 30 | a z _# | Basting This Is how the material is placed under the foot. Stitch width: (4 19) 4 Important! The basting stitches do not form in the center Stitch length: ( 22) 14-4 of the foot but only-at the left hand swing of the needle. Needle position: — left Place the basting line at the loft side of the foot. (Holding Automatic: Blindstiteh (Nt) the work taut from the front and rear ensures correct ‘and 120 fever 16) guiding.) Feed control: MW The magic needle has two eyes, one above the other. The lower eye is threaded for regular sewing. For bast- | Ing, thread the upper eye. Choose stitch length according to ma- terial and work, not too short or the basting may not easily be rerroved. It is important to pin first, especially for ross stripes that have to tratch up coxactly To secure the threads Sew a few stitches with zz on 0 at the beginning and end of seam, bButtonnoles Buttonhole foot 452, cotton through hole in finger of bobbin case. Buttonhole sowing ‘Turn buttonhole knob (21) to position 1 Before starting, move needle down- wards, about to foot height, and check whether needle is in the middle of the Dresser foot. Otherwise turn the hand- wheel until the needle is raised again. But in no event alter position of zigzag and needle Now push work under foot and place needle exactly at the buttonhole start Set satin siitch spacing, i.e. stitch set. ing lever (22) to stitch Tength almost 0. It is best to check the satin stiteh spac- ing on a spare piece of material before | starting to sew The satin stitch spacing can be finely adjusted depending on material and thread by turning the knob (22). ‘Sew the first bead forwards. Set knob to number 2 Machine sews the bar tack. 4 i E 4 2 Weds lies 5, fe = i i 4 Picea Needle raised Set knob to 3 Machine sews second bead backwards. Nesdie raised Set knob to number 4 Machine sews the ber tack Nezdie raised ‘Sot knob to 5 and make several sew-up stitches Set knob to 0 If farther buttonholes have to be sewn, kneb (21) should be set again to num= ber 1. Remaining procedure as de- scrbed above, € € é é RADAR HH RA A Corded buttonholes cad att sd ath 4 4 3a assist sed dv eleva al Fine regulator for buttonhole Set atitch length adjustment knob (22) to zero. Then set to the desired stitch density by turning left depencing on the material and thread. It Ig best to sew a trial buttonhole on remnants of the material used. To ensure that the buttonhole Is subsequently reinforced where the button pulls, by the loop of the inserted cord, always Introduce the work so that the edge of the material lies in front of the presser foot. 1. Engage butionhole device. Move needle downwards to foot level, to check that it comes in the middie of the foot opening. if not do one stitch by hand, but never change zigzag or needle position. Bring work underneath foot and put needle down exactly at the beginning of buttonhole {inner end). Do not lower the foot yet. 2 Place inserted cord above the middle bridge” on the presser foot and pull both ends under the foot to the rear. Do not hold cord, as this prevents work from feeding pe ete = through, | Patching material Zigzag foot 000 Needle: 80-70 Thread: 60/8~70/3 Modern “Darning” with running stitch ‘Stitch width: (#19) 4 ‘Stlich length: (## 22) close to 2 | Needle position: (420) center | Automatic: Running stitch (Nc 2) and 1~20 (lever 15) Feed control ‘Always underlay @ fine fabric, Sew 2—5 rows of running stitch (according to the type of material) a patching with running stitch | Necdte position: (420) center Feed control fat run | stitch width: (49) 12 Stith length: G22) 112 | Automatic: twa cea) | and MW (4 15) Do not cut off damaged part but baste the new patch on right side of work, ——— and sew it on with a smali zigzag, 2nd run Stitch width: (4 19) 4 Stitch length: (4 22) close to 0 ‘Automatic: Running stitch (Nr. 2) and 1~20 (lever 15) Now sew over patch edge with running stitch. Take care to oversew edges cor- rectly. ra run Stitch length: (#22) 1 Automatic: (MAW ant AN Along inner edge of running stitch sew a straight stitch. Cut away damaged part. (Straight stitch makes the trimming much more easy.) | vovueT Uy ‘a fda nse al bak Ae va did dil eel al ad i dal ‘a a ew @ iw tec coed ma ce Darning ge ‘Smell daring foot 285 Needle: 80-70 Thread: 50 ila ‘The quick mastering of this work de- pends on regular guiding. ‘Therefore: = Hold the hoop correctly. ~ Always work from left to right {as when writing). — Move work lengthways (not side- ways) for selvedge and wettway. Darning material Stitch width: (E18) 0 Stitoh tength: (# 22) 0 Automatic: O YMMAWW and NOW Feed control 8 yen wc M TOOTTOOTOOT + gonononndnd ‘ai. yet A careful darn is done in 3 runs 1, Weft-way, only over hole itself, 2, Selvedge-way. (Not too dense or it becomes too thick around the hole.) 8. Same way as 2nd run but only over hole itself losing threads in 2nd run of stitching. L ier Cs How to darn correctly Make the turning points of each row blunt or the stitching wit draw litle holes at the onds. Beginners ray pre- fer the L or M movement. Take care not to get circles. Main faults when darning Frequent thread breaking — work guided irregularly, Poor stitch (looping on top) — work ‘moved too quickly. When wrong side of work Is “grainy” — you are moving the work too slow. frequent thread breakage. Do not hold hoop like this. ‘This will produce irregular guiding with but like this. Whatever is to be guided must be firmly held. ‘Thumb facing the frame (slightly bent) side of litle finger to the frame. Starting position of the fingers as in the pleture — opposite ane another. ‘Then pulled back a little The frame is guided however by the outer fingers. @ Darning fine socks Small damning foot 285 Needle: 80-70 Thread: 50 Darning fine socks (also sleeves) stitch width: (19) 0 Stitch length: (4 22) 0 Neadle position: center Automatic: WNW and NW Feed control: a Place the damning ring on the free arm (stud of its shank in hole on right of cover plate), then pull work over ring (not ring over the work) stretch it to fis maximum and insert the spring. Remembering the following points: After sliding the sock ‘over the ring stretch I; to its maximum end insert the spring ‘lip so that the area :o be darned is in the center. It is ob- vious here that we do the first stitch run sideways and the 2nd run lengthways as we sannot turn the frame to another angle. With the right hand keep the area of the hole taut over the hoop. Thum® on extreme point of free arm. 2@ i a 3 Darning with wool Ja Z 4 23 1 1st run: Applying the wool S| or Start the work on tho fot ite above ee eae the hole, Stith down the wool with one sa or two stitches, and leave the needle 7 Needle: 80-70 {| down. ba} | tmeose: sa Hold the area to be mondod correct {For Teny Cloth 5 Do not push tho work to and fro on the bag | tse 4 strands of machine, but hold taut wile" YOU 94 3 | sete eras guide, aii dee When applying the wool bear the fol- Towing points In ming: sa | Darning of Woollens and [~~ ia] Terry Cloth (towels) Stitch width: (#19) 5-4 — Do not make too deep a curve at the °2 @) Stitch length: (422) 0 | ends or the threads will be too fer Needle position: center apart. a) Automatic: OWN ard MW ~ Apply the wool threads close together J _| Feed contrat: a | over the hole (they may even lie 4a Slightly over one another). Always. move work sideways (left to right and Thread machine with matching thread, 7 vice versa). Lay the woo! in the slot of the presser foot. The wool will then be guided automatically 2nd run: Oversewing the threads Cut the wool at the presser foot. Hold work again as before. Now sew across the new woo! throads with 2 zigzag. The zigzag rows should not overlap nor lie apart from one another. nda dead e688 #§ © w@ B | Sewing on buttons Needle: 80 || 1] | | waton poser ot 12 Meroe cong thea ceca | | embroidery | | | thresa: 20-80 ‘Sewing the button on stitch width: 3-4 | | Saehinats 2 | | Needle position: ~ loft || | Automatic: OWA andr naw Feed contro: lowered iss Every zigzag pressér foot can be used for button sewing. However, those who ‘sew buttons on often will find the button presser foot superior. The wide gap in front allows @ clear view. i Method: Lower drop feed control and set ma- chine, Leave zigzag on 0. & Slide piece of work under the presser foot. Place button on marked spot and let needle into the left hole. Then tower presser foot. Turn hand whee! until needle Is in its highest position. Adjust zigzag width and make a trial stitch turning hand whee! by hand. You will then see whether the ‘width of the zigzag is correct. If neces- ‘The zigzag width Is nearly always 34 as the distance between the holes is, usually the same, with the exception of decorative buttons. sary, adjust zigzag. Now sew the button If a shank is required, lay @ darning on. Less weight materials. To finish raise needle. Set zigzag to 0 and sew some fastening stitches. shes are needed for light needle on the button and sew over it. (Add a fow more stitches than usual) * * ® Oo 8 ® ® ® POOH ®D oo Inserting zips a * & wD rane ice anal ll ed i el il le i cd a] Zipper foot 007 | | Noedte: 20 Thread: 90 3 Sitch width: 0 3 ‘Stitch length: V2 Automatic: (0 WWW and AW | §) Necdte position: according to eid sot eft or th Feed control: sewing x 3 ‘The zip is basted in by short stitches so that the teeth are entirely covered by hort stitches so that the teeth are entirely covered by i the material. Open the zip before you sew it in. | 73 ‘Sew down each side from top to bottom, once with the needle position right and | ] al ance with the needle positon lft dal i, eal i Sew seam first with a very long straight slitch or basting stitch, then press open. da {Damp if necessary.) Finish the edges then unpick seam. (When stitches are Very 17) Jong they are easy to remove) i a When inserted tke this bath sides remain even and are not distorted. i 3 i 3 | ‘| dal & i | ij | | | i ! | | { 4 Tailor tacking Tailor tacking foot 419 Neadle thread according to materials and colours Automatle i and WAN Needle position: center Feed control: ya Tailor tacking with sewing thread Needle: 80 Stiteh width 2oabout 4 Stitch length: 4 Tailor tacking with basting thread (especially for woo! materials) Uso basting thread for top thread only; and normal sewing thread for the bobbin. Needle: 90 Stitch width: 2 Stitch length: 4 Tailor tacking with darning thread (for thin materials) Needle: 0 Stitch width about 1% Stitch length: 4 Important preparation 4, First set zigzag and put needle in its highest position. Presser foot is to be attached only after this procedure, in order to avoid damaging the needle. 2. Remove top thread from tension slot altogether and pass round pattern lever +4. When work is finished replace thread in the tension slot. _| Draw thread to the rear under the pres- ser foot. Before starting to sew always lay the thread sideways under the pres- ser foot. ‘A pattern can be transferred onto the fabric with the ald of the tallor tacking foot, this forms the necessary loops. Full both sides of the material gontiy| apart and cut through the threads. When tacking by hand one works di- reotly alongside the pattern. It Is to bo recommended when working by machine| (Gaves time) to transfer the pattern onto ‘the material with chalk and then remove| ie pallor, His understood Ural the Fleces of material should be pinned cown first before basting to prevent slipping. S POO fo © OH THE ETS ® ® Bd aki ee a! di ~ sash usd aaa ae ar dread es jel aad wad tas se ee ob @ ww» w @ oe 6 6 Mranitecssii col ® o & & @ Tailor tacking me | Amanat Mark the corners this way. | and he dave ie Wis The Hemmer Hemmer 003/166 How to guide the work ‘When guiding fabric hold it taut and lit Ht slightly. The edge of the fabric must be vertical and run through the machine in a straight line. Noodle: 80-70 Mercerised sewing thread No. 80 Stitch width: 0 To begin sewing: Fold edge of fabric Stitch length: 1%~2 twice (not too wide). Lay work under ‘Automatic: ‘WWW and AAW the presser foot and sew a few stitches. Needle position: center Feed control: 4a Leave needle in the fabric and lift pres ser foot. Tautly hold the first fold under the presser foot with the left hand and raw it through the spiral on the presser foot ‘The comers: These are sown in two stages as follows: First cut a litte off (not too much other- wise they will pull apart). Sew first seam. Fold edge of fabric twice and draw a ‘trong thread through by hand. TROD HMHRDDPHTTHKTTT THT ® % if ai al il dated aad Shell Hemmer dead Hold corner (together with thread) with ‘thumb and forefinger of the right hand and lay the work near the presser foct. With the left hand hold the first fold near the presser foot and draw through the spiral on the foot. Still holding the fabric taut draw it towards you and lay the ‘end under the needle. Stick the needle in and lower foot To facilitate sewing on the corner one should hold the tacked thread together with the sewing thread and pull gently tntil the presser foot no longer lies on the corner. ‘Shell hemmer 168 Needle: 80-70 Mercerised sewing thread No. 30 Stitch width: 4 Stitch length: 2%~3 Automatic: (0 yw and 7 Needle position: cent Feed control: Use the same meth homming, ‘8 for normal pains The Lap Hemmer (Feller) w First operation: ODDPPTRPAPTDPADHTDT ETS ® Pin both pleces of fabric together so ‘that the piece underneath projects by 3mm ("+") Fold overlapping piece over the top piece and slide it under the presser foot. Sew @ few stitches. Leave reed in the fabri, ft presser foot and guide fabric Into the foot. Lap hemmer 174 When sewing make sure that the same Needle: 80-70 \wiath of material enters the feller all the sseeniue time. Guide the fabric 2s you do when Morcerised se sewing a hem. Sitch width: 0 Stitchlength: — 1%~2 ‘Automatic: 9 VMWAW and WHY Needle position: center Feed controli MN ‘Second operation: Now iron seam well, guide it again into the feller and sew the second row of stitohes. Pull fabri slightly sideways on both sides of the feller. a v Gat a The Gatherer final a ee & di i a ew sidicnsd dcndl buna ead ee a dts ed oo ow é Presser foot: Gatherer 178 Needle: 80-70 Mercerised sewing thread No. 30 Stitch width: 0 Stitch length: 1'2—4 Automat: WwW ane MW Needle position: center Feed control: | Sam ‘The material to be gathered always lies under the foot and the flat piece in the slot. ‘The flat piece of material is inclined to slip out of the slot. In order to avoid this the work should be guided as shown in the illustration, by holding the lower piece with the left hhand and the upper piece with the right hand. Allways pull slightly towards the right hand comer of the presser foot. Calculation: The amount of gather depends on the length of the stitch, The longer the stitch the tighter the gather. For tight gathering the upper plece of material can be pulled a litle ow _ Applique work | |__| | Embroidery foot 090, | | | Needtes: 20-70 ) | | Thread: Embroidery thread No. 80/100 Automatic: Neadle position Feed control Guiding the work ‘You may work with or without the frame; however, taut material can be guided more easily. Important: The machine feeds automa- tleally but only in @ straight line. For curves the work must be guided by hand i-e-the frame or the material must be lightly held by one or both hands and should not be pressed onto the sewing table Guiding with the frame: The left hand Guiding without frame: *You can only must hold the frame steady, because guide the work if it is held lightly.” often the frame is guided during sewing Nevertheless, it is essential to hold the with this hand only. material itself rather taut. This is the ‘only way the work can be turned as the design requires. | Correct: Place thumbs under the mate- Flal, Make 2 fold if the piece of work is large (see diagram). Guide near the | Prosser foot irst put your hand in the position as | ‘when darning. Then draw forefinger | back to the inner edge of the frame. Extend the middle and the ring fingers. Your hand now has complete control of the frame and the best possible free- dom of movement. Notice: Do not place the forefi allel to the thumb, otherwise the move- Incorrect: This way is incorrect aS pres- ment of your hand will be restricted. sure on the work will result. Working sequence Preparation: Trace design on the wrong side of the material with the aid of spe- dal tracing paper. See that the motive Is In reverse, The design can also be taced onto iron-on Vilene and the Vi- Tene ironed on to the wrong side of the material. (Especially recommended for rough and irregularly woven fabrics that are difficult to draw on, Ifa design that Is to be used often trace on thin Vilene and then transfer it onto the material. Vilene can be tacked on to a garment tp siiffen it if desired. ‘4st run: Stitch width: %—1 Stitch length: e—Ye ‘Tack material for applique onto the right side. 1. Sew along the traced fines on the wrong side. 2. Turn to right elde and cut away neat y along the sewn lines any surplus ‘applique material. (At the same time remove the frame.) Hold scissors cor rectly. ‘and run: Stiteh wicth Stitch length: Vh almost 0 Dover the cut edge on the right side wvith Satin Stitch, Sew corners and small surves, stitch by stitch (using hand whoo!) Finish by tracing the lines through that wore not appliqued and sew from the right side. © & eH ene GOO H ee . 8 ® Applique work AA Yr ‘Sewing the comers 1. Rectangular corner: Put the needle con the outer edge, turn the work and continue sewing. The corner wil now be oversewn, 2. Pointed comer: Stop-sewing #2 cm (U") in front of the corner. Then turn back zigzag while sewing onto 0. Raise presser foot and turn the ma- terial. Set zigzag onto 1'/s again and carefully continue sewing, 8. Blunt comer: Sew until the needle is in the middle of the angle. Then sew out from center, replacing the needle in the middle after every stitch, raising the presser foot and turning the work slightly. Curve comers. NS ‘Multi-colour applique work: ‘The lower part: 4. Only this part of the applique ma- terial should bo tacked on. Sew around: Where the coloure overlap use straight stitch and zigzag the ‘other contours. 2, Trim away surplus applique mate- rial, cutting as closely as possible to zigzag stitches. Where a straight stitch has been used leave ‘2 cm (4°) beyond stitches. 8, When covering the contours leave the straight stitched edge uncovered. This will be covered again by the next part. Top part: Complete in the usual man- ner for applique work Using the same method as for blunt | Satin Stitch embroidery Embroidery foot 030 Noodle: 80 ‘Thread: Embroidery thread No. 80/60 Stiteh width: 4 Stitch length: almost 0 Automatic: WOW ancl Needle position: center Feed control: Mas Remember the following when embroidering over satin stitch ‘and ornamental stitch seams: ‘The stitch length for ombroidery ia to be adjusted to @ short length. The ‘material may block progress when the foot moves over a soam alroady embroidered. By guiding the work close to tho foot and assisting its movement the difficulty can be re- moved, If the foot is almost over the edge of the seam, hold the material back @ little otherwise the foot will glide away and this will result in a long stitch (which will look as if a mistake has been made). a Borders for table-clothe, table-napkins, collles otc. 4. Open comer: Sow until a space the Vict ot he ster lat In the comer, Border Scallops Place needle on the inside edge. Turn Preparation: Draw the scallops with the work and continue sewing. aid of a cardboard stencil onto the ma- terial. Mark all the corners with white 2. Closed, oversewn comer: Sew to the crayon. Underlay with paper. comer. Put needle on the outer edge, lift 1st run: presser foot and tum work. Lower foot ‘Stitch width: 4 again and continue sewing (help a little Stitch length: almost 0 by placing finger near the foot, see em- broidery aver satin stitch or embroidery Sew satin stitch seam. Remove paper seame}. ‘and carefully cut round the scallops. Satin stitch corners 3. Corner with diagonal design (rectan- 2nd run: gular): Sew to the comer. Place needle Stitch width: 2% fn the outer edge, Lift foot, turn sewing Stitch iength: | 1—1/2 work, Needle position, leit or right (ac cording to design) sew zigzag on 0. Lower foot. Now whilst sewing slowly turn zig- zag onto 4 again; sewing siowiy! Oversew edge with zigzag. At the same | time guide 2 pear! cord along the edge | making sure that it does not slide over | or under i 4, Corner with diagonal design (for fes-[ toonery). Needle position let! I @) Lay the work under the foot so that | the design can be seen in the slot that | rune lengthwise. b) Sew to the comer | {.o, till the needle Is about to make a stitch from the left on the line drawn to & assist you. ¢) Raise foot, turn work and tum zigzag to 0. Lower foot again. Mako sure that the design appears once again | in the slot that runs lengthwise. d) During sewing tur the zigzag again slowly onto 4; sew slowlyl « € € € € € € e @ é ie le Tote: The machine feeds in 6 balght Iho Gad rof'n cunen, The border cord must theretore be hod eight andthe | tealop adgo must bo guided on te | g Sralght tne: Guide clowly and pear he | fot le ehcaieesalel vid hand Satin Stitch embroidery rnaahdaaai eae teachdcaed ea Straight border Preparation: Draw border line, underlay with paper. 4st run: Stitch width: 4 Stitch length: almost 0 Sew satin stitch seam. Remove paper fand cut away surpius material 2nd run: Stitch width: 2%2—3 Stitch length: | 11% Oversew edge with zigzag, At the same time guide through pearl cord (No. 8 three- to five-ply} taking care that it neither elides over or under ‘he edge. Comer: Sew to the corner. Lower drop feed control. Sew three stitches using the handwheel, Leaving the needle in the work at the inside edge, raise foot, turn work. Make a loop with the cord, lower foot and sow further three sti cches. Ralse drop feed control and con- tinue sewing carefully. Pull on the loop until the foot no longer lays on the cor- | ner. To make loop disappesr pull the ends of the cord, (See diagram.) Push comer stitch over the corner and con- tinue sewing Narrow border ‘At run: Foot: Embroidery foot Stitch wicth: 1% Stitoh length: Needle position: eft Draw pearl yarn No.8 or 8 (according to material) through the hole of the em- broidery foot. Sew seam with eatin stitch. Cut surplus material away carefully. 2nd ru Foot: ‘Small buttor-hole foot Stitch width: 2-8 (according to material) Stitch length: almost 0 Needle position: eft Now completely cover the first satin stitch seam with a second. Lay the work under the foot In such a way that the satin stitch seam is in the left slot of the foot. Place the cord (mostly 1-ply) Into the right hand slot of the foot. In this way the yarn is joined exactly to the edge. Make the comer in the same way a8 with tha wider harder Embroidering with the automatic Embroidery foot 030 Needle: 80 Thread: Embroidery thread No, 30/60 As with hand embroidery, one must have a knowledge of the basic rules for em- broidering with the automatic. It is worth | while spending some time study ng and | practising these rules. | Bofore you begin any embroide-y work rote the following: 1, Attach embroidery foot, have paper ready, 2. Use the same colour embroidery thread for the top and the bottom. 8, Practise with a romnant of matorial [and underlay with paper). 4, Observe work in the foot hole. 5, Always embroider first and then com- With ene-sided pattems watch whilst sewing only the left-hand side of the: braid, for the pattern must completely cover the edge. (Lay the braid on the: material straight. Guide near the for stretch braid a little.) When both sides ternately both left and right edges of the braid, so that they are well over sewn by the pattern. (Watch the sewing procedure in the foot hotet) Over-embroidering with cord Stitch width: 4—3 Sitch length: almost 0 Automatic: ‘As desired and 1-20 | Needle position: center Feed control: Guide cord (Lurex thread) at the samo | time through the hole in the embroidery foot. Cord in the bobbin case {also plain or metallic thread) ‘Stitoh width: 4 of the pattern are the same, witch ab |. plete the rest of the sewing, Stiteh length ‘Automatic: 28 (No. 1} oF (No.2) and 1-20 jon: center # _ Noodle post Braiding Feed control: | stitch wiath: 4 | Stitch length: almost 0 Automat [As desired and 120 Needle postion: center Feed contrat To be worked on wrong side. Trace design onto paper or Vilene, Loosen bobbin tension and tighten uper tension a title Embroidering with the automatic 2 2 @ 9] | Embroidery foot 030 Needle: 80 29 i || Thread: aw] | Embroiaery © thread No, 30/60 39 Sitch widths 42 iag| Stitch length: = Yet @ | Automatic: AAS desired end 120 cH ig| Neecie postion: center 5%] Feed contro: wa 2) 3, When the needle has reached the center, always make sure. that is really in the middle. If it is not exectly in the middle aa) put It there, 4. For the leaves in between, position the needle on the da middle line between *he leaves already sev, 3 3 3) Lengthening the pattern A gq) ttis recommended to practise this tech- nique before one sews flowers and stars. J | (watch the sowing through hele of the S) foot) 4 ®) 1. Hold right hand on the hard wheel. | 2. After sewing halt of the motif (one | small leaf = two motiis) sow slowly to avoid sewing past the end of the pattern. 4 | 3 When the pattern is finished it will be 31} indicated on the pattern indicator. 4. The parallel position of the leaves is attained when the foot stands parallel 1o the middle of the previous leaf. Oversew each leaf once again on this motif, | Embroidering with the automatic i Embroidery foot 030 Nesdie: 80 Thread: Embroidery ‘thread No, 30/60 Stiteh width 4-2 Stiteh length: almost 9 Automatic: ‘As desired and 1—20 Needle position: center Feed control | Placing two patterns | opposite one another | ittwo patterns are to be placed opposite | one another, one side of the presser foot runs on the previously sown pat- ter. In this way the density of the satin stitch becomes closer, and the patterns may not correspond automatically. To correct this readily the work should be assisted a little. tis worth while eractis= ing this guiding technique first. As soon as it is mastered, it will be a joy to do, | The best way to practise: Use snooth, ironed cotton (not too large, approxi- mately 8X8"), underlay with paper. 4. Sew first side. Turn work and mark all, the places for the motifs (for practice only), 2, When resuming sewing, guide near the foot in such a way that all fingers lig on the material; however, the middle fingers guide the most. They must be al ‘ways exactly on the mark. (After o motif has been sewn the fingers move down to the next one, i.e. from motif end to motif end.) &. The first few patterns are usually not successfully positioned, because the ‘guiding feeling is missing. Never, how- ‘ever, raise the foot and place the needle on a new pattern beginning, 4, If the motifs do not match up push the work slightly. The result will be a longer motif but the next pattern should match correctly. ® BOD AH HH DD DT OHH HO WH oof © ® a w @ Embroidering with the automatic "7, When one motif ie finished leave the f2 i Shee y a ® teoalo in the work raise foot and turn +H slightly, then sew next motif. 2 Wh vary ama cars ons can ane a using tne materia. during. so k tuo: Gulding without ame) @ | Embroidery foot 030 j Nees: £0 ! I || Teo. | | | Embrotdery ©) | thread No. 30/60 3} sutonwiamn: 42 ‘Sewing small curves =| Sitchiongth: almost bapa nat 4 nae 8 curve made of smal 2 ee fs dented andi ey. straight lines then it is understood that ] _,| Needieposition: center ‘one can sew the individual motifs of @) Feed control: ww curve In the same manner. 7 ical ndeulnchioad wcald ed ws casi d el dh sel ina cl a a Cel a | * ta ne Fy | @ ill lh lh, al, r) i 2 1 bes | | Prepering a triangle Lay is tril pieve on the marked corner in this way one can see whether the Practise with a romnant of material and tranefor it onto the matoral (at foast_pattorn has to be balanced by pushinc (underlay with paper 8 mots). or pulling the material | Double needle | Thread: | Embroidery thread No, 80 or 69 [eeceeecaeeeg Double needle ‘These special needles produce very | Embroidery foot 030 beautiful effects on delicate materials, be it shades of one colour or different colours. Adjustment Automatic: Needle position Feed control: Double needle Stitch width: Stiteh length As desired and 1~20 center 2 a) (according to pattern) oo fs When threading through the thread ten- ‘sion, make sure that one of the threads {goes left and the other right of the ten- sion disc, ® eo 8 an © * ® ® ® 3 os ee ew oe 6 6 & & a ao @ & a fiir vind etn dallwealdviadeonld wailed ied todd ued ed Mal Galil & Pintucking ‘Sewing Pintuck Corners Fancy patterns with double needle Because of the double needie, corners (Remove the cord) cannot be turned at right angles in one stitch width: oat stitch, as with a single needle. Stitch length: about % You should therefore proceed thus: Needle position: center : ; Automatic as desired Bring the points of the needles into the Feed control work. Lift presser foot, Half turn work. Thread. Prey Lower presser foot. Turn balance wheel by hand to do one atch leaving needle Wren designe are sewn in betweén or points in work. Lift presser foot. Com- nee (eg O"mycns, see the penteck Toot Blete the turn. Lower presser foot and Yor automatic guiding. For twin needle embroidery without pintucks, use the embroidery foot. ‘continue. Pintuck foot 028 Double needle Thread: 60 ‘Sewing Pintucks The gimp Is threaded like Stitch with: 0 ‘The regular spacing between the tucks Stitch length: about Ys is controlled automatically by the groo- j) ‘Automatic: OW and WW ves on the underside of the foot. (When Needle position: center ‘embroidery is eventually to be sewn Feed control: MM To sew pintucks, 2 top threads ere need- ced (for double needle). When threading the machine take care that the two threads are not twisted together, but ‘bring them singly from take-up lever to the needles. ‘The quickest way to set up the machine for pintucking Insert bobbin case. (Do not bring up lower thread yet) Insert and thread the twin need! ‘Thread the gimp through the hole in the needle plate (the free arm cover can be removed for this) and finelly bring up the bottom thread and cli on the Pintuck foot. between tucks, then a width of exactly 1 presser foot is required.) Hemstitching (for fine fabrics) | | Embroidery foot 030 Needle: Single || | hemstitch needte || | Thread: || | Embroidery thread | | No. sorto0 i | i ae _ | Single hemstitch needle Ruche ‘ Iron bias strip of organdy in two. Sew hem stitch width: 2 | james. aaa aural ea aeons edge. Sew the ormamental stitch in between with a normal needle. ‘An Entre-deux (insertions) Is worked in the ‘same way. Needle position: center Automatic: O WWW and MW Food control: Aaa Applique with Pre-Embroidered Material (use Organdie double) Hem stitch a piece of fine material in the man- ner described until you got a trollis effect. With this trellis make 2 normal applique. Finish by ‘cutting away Dackground material trom under trellis | Trellis work with metalic thread (Lurex) | can be used as a border (0.9.for a stole). A vory attractive effet is brought about if a dou- ble metallic thread Is led through the hole in the embroidery foot Method ‘Sow first row of stitching. Leave tip of needle in work, turn and sew second row (the needle will then pierce holes of first row on one side). Hemstitching ‘Ordinary Hem-stitching Stitch width: 0 Stiteh length: 1% S Zigzag foot 000 Needle: Double hemstitch needle Thread: | Embroidery | thread No. 50/100 viously sewn row and resume sewing. In order that the hemstitch needle can sew exactly into the holes of the first seam. Do not hold back work a a facaooETD ® Double hemstitch needle = ae ae ® Accclopoation: centr oe f gl Fooeomot” ee Sow the tt ego of the heme row 5 3 7j j j i ] 4 4 of embroidery. Just pierce the last left = DANA Fancy Hem-stitching Stitch width: 134 Stitch tength: 1% Automatic: (No. 1) and 1-20 ‘a x Worked in the same way as the zigzag hem-stitching, os | j | | | 4 ! is ‘ay | | B Circular embroidery - Needle position: center Feed control: For circular embroidery the material should be stiffened (with Vilene) or pre- terably worked in an embroidery hoop. ‘To prevent large pieces from pulling fold In the comers and fasten with safety pins. Easy Circular Embroidery (Circles with the same center point) Place the embroidery work ono the 7 : prong (arrange distance from needle Combinations of circles circles are to be embroidered the work a pair of compasses. must be moved accordingly. Embroidery foot 030, Needle: 80 Thread: Embroidery ‘thread No. 30/60 Siitch width: 4=2. Transfer the conter pcint of all the circles onto the material Stitch length: almost 0 with tracing paper. ‘Automatic: ‘As desired anc 1~20 accordingly) and embroider. If ‘urther Distinctly marking the center make a design on paper with ari a te “ — Ye Secure a center point onto the prong and embroider the required parts of the circle. ODD MOH PDH HH HHH HHH HH SH g Circular embroidery ; Eyelet or English embroidery ‘Special foot for Eyolet embroidery 194 Needle: 80~70 Thread: Embroidery thread 50 Slide | stide Round Aw! Nesdle position: left Feed control: lowored Square Aw! oo S| Stitch width: 1% small/2%: large Stitch iength: 0 | Automatic: wer and AAW Preparation 4. Set machine, change needle plate, placing the screw at top left. fn 2s 7 — Se = —— 2. Loosen sorew, secure required slide ‘with the prong slot on the left, but do rt tighten screw yet. Ss 3. Place the needle (swinging to righ!) into the opening, then slide the pate along until the needle Is just inside the prong, Carefully tighten screw. ‘Thread bottom cotton through hole in finger of bobbin case (as with button holes). Method 1. Always use frame. Siretch material 2. Punch holes with hand awl, pushing halfway through for small and right through for large eyelets. (Square aw! for felt and leather.) 3, Secure work onto the prong and sow eyelet embroidery. Sew twice around the small holes and three times around the large. Important: Turn the frame faster for the first round (a), thon for the following rounds (b) and do not change the sew- ing speed. 4. Set zigzag to 0. Turn work again and fasten with a few stitches, 9° Guiding the work (When sewing with large pieces of ma- terial, fold back the comers and secure them with safety pins to prevent pulling when turning.) Hold the work in such @ manner that | ‘can be turned around in one go without stopping the machine and renewing ‘one’s hold, Turn without varying move- ment. Allow machine to run at a medium and ‘constant speed. Important: Start turning 2s S000 as ma-| chine is in motion, Stop machine as f800n as one has finished turning, other- wise uneven tickness will occur. % Ornamental embroidery (work with frame) ‘Stitch widt Stitch lath: “ 3) Automatic: __| Feed contro: stitching around the eyelet 4 0 ‘As desired and 1-20 lowered ‘Secure embroidered hole onto the prong, set pattern indicator to center and em: brolder circle. As the drop feed control is lowered, the embroidery frame must be tured’ by hand too. Naturally the circle cannot be sewn in one go as with punch embroidery. Interrupt the work after a few motifs Put needle into its highest cosition. Loosen screw and move slide towards the left according to size of circle re- quired, The opening in the plate under- neath should be clear and not covered by the slide. land renew hold on embroidery frame. ‘One must sew slowly and unvaryingly if the embroidery is to appear neat and even. It ie recommended to use the slow speed of the machine. Q Monograms Without foot Needle: 80—70 Thread: Embroidery thread 60 Stiteh width: a2 Stitch length: 0 ‘Automatic: OWN and MW Needle position: center Feed control: lowered ‘Stretch the material tightly in the frame {as the work Is to be carried out without a foot, Important: Lower the foo: lever just the same as usual, otherwise the Sulding the work top thread tension will remain open and Hold frame as when daring. Do not tunatractive work will result. move fingers while working, es jerky WW'tne bottom thread is draw through movements produce uneven mono | the finger of the bobbin case the work grams. will run more smoothly (as with button- hole sewing). Method Bring up the bottom thread through the To produce a perfect monogram a great ‘material, sew a few straight stitchas and deal depends on how the frame is held. cut the thread ends. Sot zigzag. Place The more securely the work is held the needle ready to begin and make a test better the result. stitch. The drawn line must be In the middle of the zigzag. Move the frame as though wanting to Important: Allow the machine to run ‘write with it. Do not stop moving frame rather quickly; however, the frame the monogram is complete. should be guided slowly ‘and steadily ® .,® @ ® ao 8 @ & & ‘B q 4 Se ee A o 8 2 ] | ! j ] j ] ] j j i j j | i | i j j 1 & Presser foot 000 if necessary cording foot 498 (for hard fabrics) Cordonnet can be worked in two ways: A—as upper thread 8 — in the bobbin case Important: ‘The sewing machine needle hes a tong groove at the front. It must be possible for the thread to lie completey in this groove while sewing, otherwise wrong stitches and broken threads result, in addition to an unsightly stitch pattern. ‘The thickness of the naedlla must there fore correspond as always to the thread ‘thickness. In addition, synthetic cordon- net is being used increasingly. Henoe the golden rule ‘s: ‘When cordonnet as upper :hread Needle No. 110 It Ie quite possible that for certain kinds ‘of fabric even a needle No. 100 (possibly No. 90) produces a perfect result. Sow a trial sample (sk, coton synhetccordonnety D@COrative Seams with Cordonnet ‘A. Cordonnet as upper thread, Needle No. 110 Presser foot 000, if necessary cording foot 498 Lower thread normal sewing thread or synth. thread Stitch with: 0 Stitch length: 4 Needle position: center Automatic: S WWW and JW Feed-dog: to sowing ‘Standard straight stitch: stitch length 4 ‘Sow a trial sample. B. Cordonnet in the bobbin case the work cannot take the thick no. 110 needle, the cordonnat thread must be sewn as lower thread. In this case, work is done on the back of the material if the sewing line is not visible, e, g. when sewing-on pockets, they are first sewn on from the right side with dar thread (contrasting colour), stitch length 4, This bastir ‘seam provides the sewing line on the back and is easily romoved at the end. ‘There are two possibilities of sewing cordonnet from the bobbin case, 1. Normal backstten Needle No. 80 Presser foot No. 000 Upper thread normal eewing thread or synth. thread, colour as cordonnet Stitch wi 0 Stiteh length: 4 Needle position: center Automatic: WH and AW Feed-dog: to sewing Place bobbin with cordonnet in case (use cordonnet case, it is identified by a black flap). Sew a trial sample. 59 1 | 1 4 i Decorative Seams with Cordonnet isi. coton, synneticcordonne | 2, Saddle stitch | nly for Bernina machines with CB-bobbin hook) 4mm), this can be obtained using the Magic needle and zigzag stitch (not blindstitch) Thread upper eye of Magic needle Presser foot No. 000 Upper thread normal sewing thread or synth, thread colour as cordonnet Stitch width: 4 Stitch length: 2-4 Nesdle position: canter Automatic: WAM andl MUAY Feed-dog: to sewing Place cordonnet in bobbin case as in 1 Work is again performed on the back of the material Sew a trial sample, Warning: the decorative seam is formed (as with basting) at the left-hand needle cenetration. The Magic needle is only available as No. 80. Therefore cordonnet cannot be sewn as upper thread with this needle. See introductory com- ments, It a particularly long stitch Is required (over Saddle stitch > 8, Fanoy saddle stiteh ‘The Bernina universal stitch produces an attrac- tive fancy saddle stitch. ‘Thread upper eye of Magic needle Presser foot No. 000 Upper thread normal sewing thread or aynth thread Colour: contrasting with cordonnet Stitch width: 4 Stitch length: 2-3 Needle position: center Automatic No.3 SUUL Food-dog: to sowing Sew a trial sample, Saddle stitch and fancy saddle stitch are sultable for soft materials Fancy saddle stitch > 7”. © s,s ® * Cy ei How to avoid breakdowns a - ih decoded head dba al rs 4. Generally, most breakdowns are caused by Incorrect handling of the machine, If breakdowns do occur then ‘examine whether: ‘) the needle Is inserted properly (the flat side of the needle must be at the back); ») the correct needile is being used (see needle and thread table); ‘) the machine Is claned properly. Lift {ree arm cover plate and remove sewing 4) the hook race is clean and olie fe} there are pieces of thread caught between the thread tension cises or under the bobbin case spring; f) handwheel is secured properly; 9) before starting to sew please always ‘ensure that the marker of the button- hole knob (21) Is at position «0» 2. H the upper thread breaks. Can have the following causes: a) the thread is too tight; b) use of inferior needles (oy them preferably at a Bernina dealer): ©) needle inserted wrongly. at side must be at the back; 4) the needle is blunt or crooked: fe) poor quality or knottea thread. ‘Thread has dried out due to long stor- | ages | f the needle plate hole Is pitted by needle end needs repolishing (bring the free arm cover plate to authorized Bernina dealer); 9) hook point is damaged (call author- ized Bernina dealer). 3. If bottom thread break the following causes: a) the bottom throad tension is too tight; ») bobbin is crushed and jammed In th bobbin case; can have ©) needle hole in throat plate is dam- aged by the needle and needs repolish- Ing (oall autorized Bernina desler to change needle plate. 4, Faulty stitches. Can have the foliow- Ing causes: ) wrong needle. Use system 705 B oniy; b) needle is crooked or not inserted correctly (push needle right up in the needte bar); ©) low quality needle, roughly polished. 5. Needle brea ing causes: a) needle clamp screw is not sufficiently tightened; ') the material was withdrawn towards the operator and needle bent {material should always be withdrawn to the rear); (©) when sewing over thick part material ‘was pushed whilst the needle was still in, therefore it bent, touched the throat plate and broke; 4) when cheap cotton, irregularly twisted ‘or even containing knots Is used. Can have the follow. es. A bad uncven 6. Seam Iregules ‘seam results: a) if thread remnants are between the thread tension discs; ) if thread remnants are under the bobbin case tension spring. 7. Machine runs slowly ) Motor does not function properly (call authorized Bernina dealer); b) foot starter does not function proper- ly (call authorized Bernina dealer); ©} tension of driving belt is either too tight or too loose: d) use of low quality oil can block the movement, The machine must be cis- mantied and cleaned, Call Bernina dealer; } machine has been standing in a cold room. ‘When you bring your machine to an ex- pert, please take along accessories and {oot starter. Cleaning and oiling | !f the machine has been standing in a cold room, it should be brought into a warm room about an hour befors use, sso that it can warm up to room tampe- rature and the oll in the bearings will again become fluid, Cleaning the machin« During sewing pleces of thread and fluff collect under the needle plate and around the hook. ‘The cover plate of the free arm should © bbe removed from time to time so that the sewing fluff can be cleaned away. sans . a s Take off cover plate from free arm, Re- mov presser foot and needle. Open : hook cover. Hold cover plate with the | left hand and at the same time with the forefinger of the right hand pross the | After removal of the cover the feed dog is exposed and can be easily cleaned. ‘The under side of the needle plate can be cleaned at the same time. Oil a little after cleaning the hook race. Ingert the hook again with the left hand bobbin case. With the forefinger of the snd lock the bridge. Latch must snap right hand press latch to the left. The in. Check by turning handwheel. Re- locking bridge together with the hook flace the free arm cover by sliding it | race cover can now be turned down, cf toward the vertical arm until the smail_ metal projection fits into the |@ croove provided for it, Press the arm | cover down. The latch is sel-locking. After inserting the bobbin case the hinged hook cover can be closed. Now the hook can be tak the [s hook race cleaned with small brush and cotton duster. Never use hard tools such as screwdrivers and scissors for removing thread particles. Template for buttonholes, hems, pleats, scallops, etc. ‘This marking and measuring tenplateis extremely versatile and simple. By means of the red slide, the required measure can be regulated very ~ | accurately 3 39] there are two ways of using the template 2. Calculating the length of buttonholes, 7 @ 2a 2 —————— 38 "| _ |) Using the edges if lines are required 38 | Flat buttons Ball shaped buttons (or thick Button and 2~8 mm ‘ancy buttons) 7 Button and 5-8 mm ry b) Using the small holes if points are required. el naa diel 4 i 3, Marking of buttonholes Transfer adjusted buttonhole length onto the garment. Examples: ana dca ld “S| 1. Marking of spaces for buttonholes, buttons, eyelets,pleats, etc. With the red slide, adjust the required space. ‘Transfer with points or fines onto the material | | Template for buttonholes, hems, pleats, scallops, etc. | 4. Marking of hem depth With the red slide adjust the required hem depth. Put the red slide against the hem edge, mark the hem depth, 5 Marking of top-stitch lines: With the red slide regulate the required distance. | Put the red slide egainst the edge or seam. Mark the top-stitch line, 6. Drawing scallops Drawing the curves: Determine width and height of the curves Draw the necessary subsidiary lines and mark central points Reguiate the slide, hold firm with pin or similar, draw the scallops (use cardboard underlay ‘Semicircular scallops Se Flat scallops Sequence of operations: Preliminary drawing on paper Definite drawing on soft cardboard (3 to 5 scallops) Cut out the scallops (= cardboard template) Transfer by moans of the cardboard template onto the fabric (using a light coloured crayon or a chalk crayon) PeHHTSCHREDS DPD SE is wo 4 4 ae ee eee eT ee ee eT ee ee NT eT eT ete | Be e @ Important note (safety regulations — BEAB, OSHA etc.) Please observe the sewing position while sewing. The moving needle is a source of danger (danger of injury to fingers). ‘The sewing machine should be disconnected from the power supply by pulling out the plug from the socket when changing the light bulb, the needle, presser foot, bebbin or needle plate, when stopping work ‘without supervision and during servicing (cleaning). 2. Bernina Dealers’ notes regarding sewing instructions, home calls and possible guarantee work Date Notes Remarks Bernina Dealers’ notes regarding sewing instructions, home calls and possible guarantee work Dat | Notes ‘Subject to changes in design from those shown in text and illustrations. % Adress of my Bernina agency: 3 a a i & & g E 7 = 8 ° _ BERNINA

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