= USA/SOUTHEAST Spared and Flourishing Ny, ne of the few places William PB) Tecumseh Sherman visited JJ but did not torch on his ram- QA page through Dixie was the bucolic seaside community of Beaufort, South Carolina, The reason? The Union had a base there, Today, the small mu- nicipality is known for its pristine 18th- century antebellum mansions built by the planter aristocracy. Savvy movie buffs head toward the end of town—The Point—to peek through a fence at im- posing Tidalholm, the home of Robert Duvall’s character in The Great Santini, based on the book by Pat Conroy, who grew up here. See what it’ like to stay in one of these majestic homes by booking a room at the 19th-century Old Point Inn. Beaufort (Byou-fort) occupies the east em tip of Port Royal Island, one of the Sea fort, discover fine food at Saltu: (above) and fancy digs (left all 0 Islands. For centuries, it was approach- able only from the water. Now, a Beaufort Kayak Tours small boat is the way to go. Charlestonians coming down to Beau- fort stop off at sleepy little Walterboro, 40 miles north of Beaufort, for bargain antiques and sundaes at the Hiott’s Phar- macy soda fountain, In Beaufort, they frequent Wren, favored for lunch spe- cials like cranberry chicken salad, and the Saltus River Grill with its waterside view and creative cooking. At Beaufort’s graceful waterfront park, settle into the bench-size swings and give into what is known as “Beaufort time” DOUG COLLIGAN LOGISTICS: Beaufort is some 69 miles south of Charleston, 45 miles north of Savannah, (Old Point inn, wwvw.oldpointinn.comy; from $125. Wren, 843-524-9463, Saltus River Grill, wwwsaltusrivergrillcom. Beaufort Kayak Tours, www.beaufortkayaktours.com.