Hiya Parkins Elsa Schiaparelli and the Epistemology of Glamorous Silence “The Pui hse Aa ct desigoer Ele Schipareli—nho wa sciey designing Ierween 1927 and 1954 (wth the excep of several year ding the Second ‘Weld Wi) who was the apex of the Hach fation oem athe 19300 remains an rgmatc igure Sh ef few tas, ave for er 194 ne, ‘of pure for he researcher, This sens fa eign pena new terion the eli a cen by er public he pend of her tenancy. Forte prs her ine Shape was glanoveus fre: glamour acne fr her mtr ters cel she bers seungesemblnc othe ganna eh of feminine laos, Gets Gat when uth Brown deserbs al pes and atthe sme time, none: Garb, who fascated milions remained a ‘nystery ter pbc [| Her ambi for eb wi coated yy ‘esitance tit" (rows 209101). Iowa ates Gatbos “refi” le ‘lene shout be eral eh le ff any concrete ach ces OF Schaar pblshed Shaking Lif andthe dot slept But she ‘waste ease about her pron is beyond ber ately tapes [penons which was acer for the hath of er basins thong ew a (oct of ber elgefemed yoee—ehe wn und romans rune Scie eprsete »pandoily mages cess, engna whose mystery ‘he founda of her apes. {tie Schigprey glamoron ankrneip—as a pactione in andy on bit ~dat ees mea fermi tect. Repose of woe, unknowable the owes of ead 20d etary morney pve ang ct tothe pesos broader Wester ela vauaom of any, waity a ‘esa fe nerd that wf ey hi ea, ar Femniny—ae foundational (long ith various sore of ean gue a intervention) in calengng 0 cmpncl gaze, how ght wanton of erst eat apy st? Pothereore, he empha on he unkocma tomes a tong challenge to emit chery wabation of vee, ily xeon wos for wom’ emponttment an iberton. The exes focus these tat of Kcwabaty refores problematic dichotomies of gees a imonitor vile women ae vite whereas able women are {ects T acc fo move beyond this dale framework by tang the csr ‘ear ty of omen bre a iy we Sea or Chia Tp wb ‘nove toward & more comple understanding of feniniys dieasive postion ‘modernity, which wil uve consequence for concepts of wares ee i Fema theory more peer he concept of glamour il, dosely Ge wo the emergeat Beau fashion and vera ndartae of the ex 20 entry, evi ae ol or thinking Soong ie seetcegy of pene iscsi. A bee of tate ie ‘cusber of glamour finds a emarable consonance betwen this rope andthe ‘pono of Schpar safe related to deed, united toner tone especily a ths pron communicated by the dese eel. What we in upg to dei glues Eo wih x conept of de persia sce the eat 19th ene amour has Ben vod denote same tenis, incl quali eae a etaclogeal beige wih wore thatdvcrbe wee lowe mags tthe cml. Ax Carols Gould ates “gamoue belongs tne ince to heath or enhun”(Goald 218 238. One way whch mars ‘nds easter trogh tiaras of meng har emt projections OF ele According 9 Elzabeth Wilton, “ganour depends on what i whe, ‘sey itd the iden” (eon 207: 10. Te aoa indi t ‘bar datan nd aloo! possesing 2 “mystevos Bend of ness and disiace Teer tansparet oe page at tance” Poste i Wao 2307 100 a cemecions othe operas sd the oe amour denotes, to cc-emporal dimenson feral, the mpertur 0 the oeel pen ot “rls ungonered by the tempor loi of ely concen Part of he mor pero dace andinacesy, te, eto tet at de apes oe Sade of te Jkt Brown theories the igure av emblemate of glamor, ‘eg that seems oop me” and pst hs paramour 2 ld intent sad Sy cating evo Ge atl coset a1 on wl ff smoke" Brown 2009 45) The glamorous fgue bere cas meay fom the ‘hy pang of neared, ease, eae, ‘Thenotion af mystery and secre, of eure suggest dept cael elaborated hear of glamour doesnot (as might he suspected) naively reduce glamour toa rice effect Glamour sl aed to sre of spectacle ad ‘cpresions thevegh the veal ure of moderiqy— Alm sry ion —ahow ‘hari indeed, a moda of the surace utente eres denoted y this furfice comple the reltonshipBenwen fe and depth Ther elton re to binary.a in ancient and ed dtinsons Benen depth a authenticity and ‘artic avarice” Nether does glamour aan expremion of itsionty suggest thse thee is a mimetic relationship Between interior and exeig, wherein thescl praenation comesponds precy t the pena if there we hee Cou enn mney a he tice ed de acest “oa the self Rather, panou a gay ee yokes ce and doth, during the batwaltion of ths foundatonal boty: Te lhe bt mas ‘eigmaand its ths mcr tat a epentel ough he ace ls anon Thi uy bu pera dln penne om he nota that the utc saga oem to represen he th of the into Hey ee interior ein snob and the qurion Becomes set toga sts—whet the Push eptenetoiea comers ‘the imply of knowing tht slE Nac only ec amc hae xp Jnr dimension then bt so asc mde tht stan» corp ‘tne knowedge-aking between the armors gre ane obec Glamour thecefie enables connections between sels and the soil ‘through the ongoing act of interpreting the amare igure, whe i seen onsen kind of distant ineioety. Glarour thus strikes me 2 apart pt concept for thinking about Schisparl and for interogae fer theoretical dichotomies, beste Schaprells representational ucive {similar play hermeensurtice and depth, Thee tee quenon ashe persed a glamocos figure ancl that this undertanding cystalced her visually accable “surtace, which nied the pablc in and inaugural ‘octal reltionhip. OF eoune, the glamorous figure of the moder Imagini most often feminized Sgr, and 40 this nen of questions soother ie at which we can wpack the relationship of women to mad ‘he production of Schiaparelh at glaniocous inks the feminine subject 0 ondtons of modernity in ambhalen ways. One i tempted to suggest {amour appeal wo tnelesses is mee another wy of suing the ‘uti ofthe modern Butas Schipars embodied gmour ie damaning ofthe dchotoner of indvidal sod Social pete and intesoiy and src, al asthe modern snd the teneler~—the feminine figure might be beter undentood to complicate the cain of bi cn which mover es ‘Thesagetion that ganousoldsomehigin mare depend theca of pracy andthe pyecion ofan eve ced pete ead {sblenat of Schapurl noth th pel her are rl a ‘Ste: Neal Shinai cin he enn Sting tha eo ‘Sap sm onset” (Susp 2007) Thongout he bk he ps irl hy and in end fpr apace ry ung ef Sn she wes the language Vii Wont "ARecn of One Own dee ‘ayn which van nsecene sheet ec pace Ber hme wl (1,19 Net nd ofc wr sme te a fc or eel Seen cued its she sl pa oe te er hour ‘he poplar pes aaa dh tae ling int tn incre ‘hat ontbuted to her glamorous mystique In 41932 New Yorker pile Janet lane nots Sehgal fondness for elton atthe age of thts she ill ‘eta the ai pec of talented ch oo gifed and dahon stem ‘nesplanation adult (Paner 198223). A 1834 pole in Tim clams een ‘oer intimate fiends, she remain a enigma (Gould 1954: 50). A rembilsy mgs in representations of Sehiapuei thee ad toward er dep but xls ‘operate i What Schiparei eases to profe isthe clearest evden of het inens Sciaparl fen inept such efiain gendered ters, Sccey she implies, is of partial bene to women. In Shking Lif the decies sing cea © fuhion makeshift desing rooms i her Ss lotion at Rue deb Pax. Upon ‘mang the move ro Pace Vendbme, she brought the sens with he and they ‘pn functioned as deng rooms bat also tansended their mundane sige ‘Asin confessional he ens held thie ces Many enknows, things, sober and deve were ee in thst br thse ‘eyeliner went bond thr They neh he ses of wee tnd mitreses ea the mse odies of women cose pai And f Shap ok antes with pmpathy nd pi he forges reying at ‘ke oUockwhenseleaes thee all ae (Schr 2007 63) Inch pasge Scape invoke he elatonsbip with other women cent, this time—in more sense terme than she does anpuhere ee nthe meme She ao point oward partcltly feminine dara af sce the sens rd sites forthe voicing of sce about ines face by women, special. It 'theeveltionofsecres about womens inate ves tht cmpromtes Wome ‘ale. Of course, women sised-andisk—moch geste damage tothe seeal ‘nd profesional epuations than men do wen the pliht diced om thet ‘nuinate ies; ear this ecogniion shaped Schiapareli econ to eval very linden in the apparent eeatry Form ofthe memo, Protecting her ow sexte—her seme oF an “other elf™—wa a means of protecting be option, ‘spel a single natherin an ea and national cone (overwhelingy pos tale pot-Fest World War France) whet hat sats would be quent “The management of her glamorcan cel ntensy ll abot the spetaclar, sree robe as mach about culating “he iavibl” at tis abow maintaining vinully accesible sarfies. The evidence for mach an undertanding et in Schsprels own slenes about er if She lft fw tae of er intimate ie, radoicaly, Shoking Les bul on intimation och tne woe. Although Schiaparli withholds much of hel in self poectiverexponte to the exigencies of clbity andthe imitations of fenine convention, this ery witbalding ich with igncance, In an edt dependent on the vile tnd especialy onthe inbly f women, Schispae tempt fo remain in the ‘podighe whl ao conn the put of heel she offers tothe pegs.¢ + new understanding of vabiliy for women i dis pci” Hero Aeploymene of glamour suggests that inability can challenge rather ‘enforce the gendered bine that cicunseribe understandings of worsens Sb the srctre of modernity Maing a spectacle of the ufled poms he deep interior sherefse the inary contraction of agency and it stound which feminists he tended to erent cur hie aed th ‘elections on modernity this dichotomy bas ended to sll conversations the place of women in modems ses, as evidenced by a recent un (ea cg ps af be ieee orcs ‘elebeiof al the unexpected and dspariged categories, il poe ore this ern, Noses The neointima neice en eit fea se mesg Hee ck ng pair Ve hamanties Se oe enmpl ots C1 Peart O10) and Sone (104). 2 Onan oy oh ag oma ic ‘eee gh cecal cl ttn wal Se ion sia SLT ey tes ee cme aes i et Fu SESW aaa a Anta ui iy ana mnie of hee we Ae cma en ace RES Het brs dita ie Paling Sepia Acca Eien fod bye 0 Gt) Re am Pe TE Lae otic ich wa an ap canter he anon epee piney he he Laine 0) i Rakes on Jaith 2009 Clee Sc Dini Maio dt Rains Frm hack NY Comal Unerty Pee Cos, Cather 2001 Maing Up the Truth On Lis Lip and dc Niche In Fition Clie ari Expat, nd na ee by Sts sed Pamal Care Cis, 191200 London: Rowe lies Ri 1985. Ze Gnd Meri Cambridge MA: Hava Uni Pe Faerie 1912 Pre: Coe be Ns irk 18 Jone, 21-24 Gaul, Cal 8.1984 Hae couse Tin 1 Angst 2005 Glamour aan Aes Peper Pons fra of Aas and Gi 29-47. Jette, Lod 2010 The Pace of Sees Sees Semen he Research rece Sry nd Sli Rane Pre: te iat by Rael Ryan lod aed Rend Gil 91-38 Lando: Rote Lain Tie Tr 2005 men Tt part: a of Lain Pr Now ‘Branwic N:Rage Uateray Pon Med Neus 2003 Tes Ar Phen fo He Finny Teper at Ltertnge in Diderot "Sar sommelier Eat Madr Cll See 32: Pa Jane L200, Chong Ses Rethinking Wa, Agen and Wee ape in gy od leet Rees Pree Peso Refi ed oy isi yr Food nd Rind Gl 15-29, Lado Rode, Rau famine 20a Eiken Gy andthe Desf Sap Madi Sng a Buc ‘noon VE Aabpae —— 20118 atorng Sap Archer: cen Gy Rady Hal alas Femina n MeFi eed bya Paie al Eats M, She 144 Labo, NE Unity Pr of New Bind Spr ln 207. hing fe London. and A. Paitin ‘Stone Elen 2002 Rising fom Dep hace: Wc Lind he Bi of ec ond ‘Sloe New Yrs Pew ang “eon Eat 20, Fo Fashion o Marae Town a Unger Pu e-Bay Drenng edd by Jone Ents aod Burts Wiso, 1S: Os Bg Wig Eahth, 207A Noe on Glare Feb Ty 1(: 95-108 a ag 01 Ga Sena he Mai Mat rao Cha Rachel Alpha Jobnston Hurst Happiness and Its Discontents in the Cosmetic Surgery Photograph One fhe most commen juications for undergoing come sage that surgery will make the pase happy The sccess of sugey measzed by the patent apparene post seg happiness, whichis concepaained 3 the lee fed" This paper emmines the vis economy of happiness ny snmetie ‘aegenfoeming on the photograph w te meruetent oft econ aia outa. A photograph 2 remnant of onc part embodiments rggting for1 Ch tl et i ei rs rt Ret peer: Eo Ee. Sor one antacid te TOPIA Number Twentysive - Spring 2011 ‘Bar We Blow Teles Pelt nth Ba Rr Branch ne 29 aia nes "eg atv Opener a Aa aren Cope Ming 51 Rye Vera Wr pees Pact Reve Fredo orgs tad rn, Wistar Ao ad aoran omdinee Sob Cie nd otra flac 97 Maki Motpanyae Cpatare ters: ‘dng Suc Caran Coma Rl Pcs ‘Gon brs Paepresens The Anca Sry Newpon he Lod ‘cede ang Pie, 1800 6 ot 122 Danie Janne Deven ‘he Cura Crs order Pr Can Sch Coty 153 sman Orpana ‘State Bopower The Ucany Carma Zable Was 177A, Conan a unin Rule Frise esate 102 Heater Mine oan ra nc Lad meen Pon Dear Osos 190 a Parking Eh Sohne ad te Gacencoy of Garren Since 195 Rachel Ap Jon Horst ‘Teepe Dacor ne Comat rey Pgh