AN OVERVIEW OF PROCESSES INVOLVED IN THE

CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO GARMENTS

Prof. R. B. CHAVAN
Former Professor, I I T Delhi,
Consultant,
Mahatma Gandhi Inst. of Rural Ind.
Wardha
E-mail rbchavan@hotmail.com
CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES


Natural Synthetic Regenerated
Vegetable Animal
Polyester Viscose Rayon
Cotton Silk Nylon
Jute Wool Acrylic
Natural fibres
Cellulosic fibres
1. Seed hairs: Cotton, Kapok
2. Bast fibres: Flax, Ramie, Hemp, Jute, Sunn, Kenaf
3. Leaf fibres: Abaca, Pineapple, Sisal (Agave), Palm
4. Fruit: Coir

Mineral: Asbestos


Natural Protein fibres
Animal hair fibres
Wool (Sheep)
Speciality hair fibres: Alpaca, Camel, Cashmere, Mohair
(Angora Goat),
Fur fibres: Mink, Muskrat, Rabbit
Animal Secretion
Silk fibre: Mulberry, Tussar, Moga, Erie
Spider silk

Regenerated natural fibres
Rayon
Cuprammonium
Viscose: Regular, high tenacity, high wet modulus,
hollow fibres, polynosic, lyocell
Acetate: Secondary acetate, Tri acetate
Regenerated Protein: Casein, Zein, Peanut, Soyabean
Miscellaneous: alginate
Synthetic fibres
Condensation polymers
Polyamide
Nylon 6, 66, 11
Aramide : Quiana, Kevlar, Nomex
Polyester
Aromatic: Polyethylene terephthalate (PET)
Aliphatic Poly lactic acid (PLA)
Addition polymers
Acrylic, modacrylic
Olehene fibres: Polyethylene, polypropelene
Saran
Vinal
Vinyon

Fibre Yarn Fabric


Garment or other ready made forms.

STEPS INVOLVED IN CONVERSION OF
FIBRE TO GARMENT
MAJOR STEPS
TYPES OF YARN
1. STAPLE YARN
2. FILAMENT YARN
STAPLE YARN
COTTON
WOOL
JUTE
ACRYLIC
CONVERSION OF
FIBRE TO YARN
FILAMENT YARN
SILK
SYNTHETIC
DIRECT YARN
PRODUCTION FROM
RAW MATERIALS
CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO STAPLE YARN
EXAMPLE COTTON
PRE-SPINNING PROCESSES
SPINNING PROCESS
PRE-SPINNING PROCESSES
GINNING
BALE FORMATION
TRANSPORTATION TO TEXTILE MILLS
OPENING
LAP MAKING
CARDING
SLIVER MAKING
ROVING MAKING
PRINCIPLE
STRETCHING OF
FIBRES
ARRANGING THE
FIBRES PARALLEL TO
EACH OTHER
PR-SPINNING MACHINES
GINNING
BALE MAKING
OPENER
LAP MAKING
CARDING
DRAWING FRAME
SPEED FRAME
SPINNING MACHINES
SMALL SCALE SPINNING
CHARKHA
LARGE SCALE SPINNING
RING SPINNING MACHINE
WEAVING
CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC
INTERLACEMENT OF YARN IN SPECIFIC WAY IN TWO
DIRECTION (WIDTH WISE AND LENGTHWISE)

LENGTH DIRECTION WARP
WIDTH DIRECTION WEFT
WEAVING MACHINES
LOOMS
MANUALLY OPERATED LOOMS
ELECTRICALY OPERATED LOOMS
MANUAL LOOMS KNOWN AS
HANDLOOMS
FRAME LOOM
PIT LOOM
SEMI-AUTOMATIC LOOMS
ELECTRICALLY OPERATED
LOOMS
KNOWN AS POWER LOOMS
DIFFERENT TYPES LIKE
SIMPLE POWERLOOM
AIR JET LOOM
RAPIER LOOM
WATER JET LOOM
LOOMS FOR PRODUCING
DESIGNED FABRIC
DOBBY LOOM
JACQUARD LOOM
AVAILABLE BOTH IN MANUAL
AND ELECTRICAL CATEGORY
KNITTING
INTERLACEMENT OF SINGLE YARN
WARP DIRECTION: WARP KNITTING
WEFT DIRECTION: WEFT KNITTING
MACHINES
WARP KNITTING MACHINES
WEFT KNITTING MACHINES
CHEMICAL PROCESSING
VALUE ADDITION THROUGH
PREPARATORY PROCESSES
DYEING
PRINTING
FINISHING
PREPARATORY PROCESSES
DESIZING
SCOURING
BLEACHING
MERCERIZATION
Purpose

To remove
Natural and added impurities
To improve the appearance of fabric
To impart certain desirable properties
To make it suitable for subsequent
processes like dyeing, printing finishing
CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN
YARN FORM
FABRIC FORM
DYEING
TO IMPART COLOUR UNIFORMLY
ALONG THE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF FABRIC
UNIFORMLY ON THE BACK AND FACE OF FABRIC
DYEING CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN
FIBRE FORM
YARN FORM
FABIC FORM
MACHINES USED FOR DYEING
FIBRE DYEING MACHINES
YARN DYEING MACHINES
HANK DYEING MACHINES
CHEESE DYEING MACHINES
CONE DYEING MACHINES
FABRIC DYEING
JIGGER DYEING MACHINES
PADDING MANGLE
WINCH DYEING MACHINE
JET DYEING MACHINES
PRINTING
DYEING IN THE LOCALIZED FORM
APPLICATION OF COLOUR IN THE FORM
OF DESIGN
ONE OR MORE THAN ONE COLOUR CAN
BE APPLIED IN THE DESIGN
KNOWN AS
SINGLE COLOUR DESIGN
MULTI COLOUR DESIGN
DIFFERNCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING
DYEING
UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND
WIDTH OF FABRIC
USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE.
NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT
AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC
AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY
DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMI-
CONTINUOUS METHOD.
FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM.
DYEING IN FIBRE, YARN, FABRIC, GARMENT FORM
PRINTING
LOCALLIZED DYEING
COLOUR IS APPLIED LOCALLY IN THE FORM OF
DESIGN/PATTERN
LOW VISCOSITY MEDIUM WOULD SPREAD THE
COLOUR BY CAPILLARY ACTION, DOES NOT
MAINTAIN THE SHARPNESS OF THE DESIGN.
AQUEOUS MEDIUM OF HIGH VISCOSITY,
PREVENT THE COLOUR SPREADING.
FABRIC PRINTING IN OPEN WIDTH FORM ONLY
FABRIC PRINTING IS MOST COMMON
COMPARED TO YARN AND GARMENT PRINTING,
EXCEPTION T-SHIRT PRINTING
PRINTING STUDY
STYLES OF PRINTING
DIRECT STYLE
PRINTING OF SINGLE OR MULTICOLOURS ON
WHITE OR PALE SHADE DYED FABRIC
RESIST STYLE
PREVENTION OF COLOUR FIXATION AT THE
PRINTED PORTION
WHITE RESIST: WHITE PRINT AGAINST COLOURED
BACKGROUND
COLOUR RESIST: COLOUR PRINT AGAINST
COLOURE BACKGROUND
DISCHARGE STYLE
DESTRUCTION OF COLOUR AT THE PRINTED
PORTION
WHITE DISCHARGE
COLOUR DISCHARGE
METHODS OF PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
STENCIL PRINTING
ROLLER PRINTING
SCREEN PRINTING
MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING
AUTOMATIC FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING
ROTORY SCREEN PRINTING
TRANSFER PRINTING
XEROX PRINTING
INKJET/DIGITAL PRINTING
PRINT LIKE EFFECT
TIE-DYE AND BATIK
FINISHING
PURPOSE
TO IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF FABRIC
FEEL OF FABRIC
IMPART CERTAIN DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO
FABRIC LIKE
WATER REPELLENT PROPERTY FOR RAIN COATS
WRINKLE FREE PROPERTY TO SHIRTING AND
TRAUSER FABRIC
FLAME RETARDANT PROPERTY TO CURTAINS

TREATMENT CARRIED OUT MAINLY IN THE FABRIC FORM
CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN THE GARMENT FORM ALSO
TYPES OF FINISHING AGENTS
1. WATER REPELLENT FINISH
2. FLAME REATARDANT FINISH
3. WRINKLE FREE FINISHES
4. ANTISTATIC FINISH
5. SOIL REPRELLENT FINISH
6. ANTI-BACTERIAL FINSIH
WEAVING USING COLOURED YARN
KNITTING USING COLOURED YARN
APPLIQUE OR PATCH WORK
EMBROIDERY
OTHER METHODS FOR PRINT LIKE EFFECTS