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2014 WPC recap
Global perfumery summit
cis-Jasmone in avors
Biotechnology-derived ingredients,
mountain savory oil, avor and
fragrance materials, and more.
NATURALS IN F&F
PF1409_Cover.indd 1 8/6/14 1:38 PM
2014 Sigma-Aldrich Co. LLC. All rights reserved. SIGMA-ALDRICH is a trademark of Sigma-Aldrich Co. LLC, registered in the US and other countries.
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Untitled-1 1 7/25/14 9:29 AM
2 Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
VOL. 39 SEPTEMBER 2014
FLAVOR
30
cis-Jasmone
John Wright
This ingredient excels in fruit avors, adding a level of depth,
realism and complexity that has few rivals.
66
Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials
Judith Michalski
Methyl laurate, ethyl phenylacetate, 2-octanone, isophorone
and more.
FRAGRANCE
38
2014 World Perfumery Congress Addresses Rapid Changes
Impacting Global Industry
Victoria Frolova
Focused on regulations, innovation, sustainability and new
markets, the WPC provided inspiration for the industrys
creative minds.
56
International Perfumer Meeting: Enhancing the Recognition of
Perfumery Worldwide
The rst meeting of the international societies of perfumers,
held at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress, addressed global
cooperation to support perfumery.
58
2014 World Perfumery Congress Exhibition News & Notes
Photos and company news from the exhibition oor.
80
The Last Word: Honoring Contributions to Perfumer Societies
& Perfumery
INGREDIENTS
26
Raw Material Bulletin
Passion fruit aroma, cinnamyl acetate, Karmawood, dimethyl
sulde and more.
32
Biotechnology Enters Its Next Phase
Recent ingredient launches signal increasing complexity of
biotechnologically derived avor and fragrance materials.
68
Progress in Essential Oils
Brian M. Lawrence
Mountain savory oil.
INDUSTRY
6
Editors Note: Perfumery, Acquisitions & More
8
Industry: News, Events and Analysis
25
Events
77
Worldwide Sources
79
Ad Index
ON THIS MONTHS COVER
This month, P&F explores naturals in F&F, including
biotechnology-derived natural ingredients (Page 32),
mountain savory oil (Page 68), and avor and fragrance
materials from various sources (Pages 26 and 66).
online this month www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
Sign up to receive www.PerfumerFlavorist.coms news and regulatory feeds at www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/pfnow.
To advertise online or in print, call 1-630-344-6060, or e-mail: pcrist@allured.com.
People
Photos, events and news
Events
Photos, coverage and calendar
LinkedIn
Connect and network

News: P&F Newsletter
Weekly digest of news, trends
and analysis
PF1409_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 2 8/6/14 1:39 PM
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Untitled-1 1 4/25/14 1:57 PM
4 Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
EDITORIAL
Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor in Chief 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Brian M. Lawrence, Editor for Natural Products
Nicole Urbanowicz, Associate Editor 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Paige Crist, Associate Publisher 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Kasia Smialkowski, Coordinator 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & MARKETING
Laura Allured, Brand Specialist 1-630-344-6041/lallured@allured.com
DESIGN DEPARTMENT
Andrew Frederick, Design Manager
Bryan Crowe, Production Manager
Hon Bannapradist, Senior Graphic Designer
CORPORATE
Janet Ludwig, President
Linda Getner, Controller
Linda Schmitt, Director of Marketing
Sandy Chapin, Group Show Director
SUBSCRIPTIONS
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Other products brought to you by Allured:
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PF1409_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 4 8/6/14 1:39 PM
Iai-ed /p Nata-e
www.mgessentialingredients.com
MG Essential Ingredients aims to provide its customers highest quality products and service by producing special range of
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Untitled-9 1 8/8/14 8:45 AM
6 Editors Note Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
Perfumery, Acquisitions & More
S
ummer is often the quiet period for the avor and fragrance industry, but this past season proved
the exception.
To begin, the 2014 World Perfumery Congress (WPC; coverage begins on Page 38), which hosted,
among other things, the rst global meeting of perfumer societies (Page 56) from France, England,
Germany and the United States. I am very proud to have seen this cooperation come together and am
excited to see what the organizations build in the coming months and years.
We look forward to hosting the
WPC (wpc.perfumeravorist.com)
again June 1315, 2016, at the
Fontainebleau Resort in Miami
Beach, Florida, the U.S. gateway to
Latin America.
But rst, of course, planning is
already ramping up for Flavorcon
(www.avorcon.com), taking place
November 1517, 2015, at the
Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa in
Atlantic City, New Jersey. More
updates are coming soon, so stay
tuned.
Meanwhile, following its initial
listing on the Flavor & Fragrance
Leaderboard,
a
Wild Flavors GmbH
announced that it has been acquired
by Archer Daniels Midland Co. (Read
our exclusive interview with ADM
president Juan Luciano on Page 10).
The all-cash transaction, valued at
about e2.3 billion, signals a new phase
in F&F acquisitions, and accompanies
rumors of further activity. Look for
further reports as the story develops.
Enjoy this issue and see you next month.
Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor in Chief
jallured@allured.com
Stay Informed, Stay Connected
Print
www.perfumerflavorist.com/subscribe
Newsletter
www.perfumerflavorist.com/pfnow
Pictured at a cocktail reception following the rst global meeting of perfumer societies at the 2014 World
Perfumery Congress were, from left: Vincent Kuczinski (American Society of Perfumers [ASP]; Mane),
Peter Whipps (president, British Society of Perfumers [BSP]), Maurice Roucel (Socit Franaise des
Parfumeurs [SFP]; Symrise), Kate Williams (BSP; Seven Scent), Raymond Chaillan (SFP), Sylvie Jourdet
(president of the SFP; Crassence), Chris Diienno (president of ASP; drom), Patrick Saint-Yves (SFP),
Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang (Deutsche Gesellschaft der Parfmeure in der SEPAWA [DGP]; Henkel), John
Bailey (BSP), Jim Fassold (ASP; Robertet) and Jim Krivda (ASP; Mane).
a
June 2014, Page 18; www.perfumeravorist.com/magazine/pastissues/
Facebook
www.facebook.com/perfumerflavorist
LinkedIn
www.linkedin.com
PF1409_EdNote_fcx.indd 6 8/6/14 1:40 PM
NATWI ST
beyond Nature
www. mane. com
Untitled-1 1 7/25/14 9:28 AM
8 Industry Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2014 Allured Business Media.
Industry
The launch of Renessenzs (Jacksonville, Florida) sensory appli-
cations center in Chicago is changing the relationship it has with
clients. This new capability extends the companys focus from
the manufacture of aromatic ingredients, functional ingredients
and cooling agents derived from natural, renewable sources,
to the application of those ingredients in clients avor, food,
beverage, oral care and personal care systems.
The move allows the company to be an expert in our own
ingredients and how they work in our customers nished prod-
ucts, says Eric Beatty, president and general manager. Directly
engaged with customers, the sensory applications team is able to
answer questions and offer consultations on how ingredients are
applied during the product development process, in addition to
providing prototyping. At the same time, Renessenz is learning
how customers develop products and how its ingredients are
applied in a real-world environment, as well as identifying new
applications for its coolants, including beverages.
The company has spent the last year building out its sensory
capabilities, says Theodore Butz, president and CEO of Pinova
Holdings, Inc., the parent company of Renessenz and Pinova.
(The company recently realigned its business unit structure
toward three market-facing businesses. In addition to the
sensory ingredients business, the company also features a fra-
grance ingredients business that manufactures terpene-based
aroma chemicals for household goods, personal care and ne
fragrances, and a performance specialties unit that markets
resins to the adhesives, construction, tire and agriculture
markets. The combined businesses have sales of more than
$300 million, according to Pinova Holdings.) The organization
of the company, in addition to the formation of the sensory
applications team, signals a change in its go-to-market strategy,
says Butz, expanding beyond its existing expertise in chemistry
and processing.
Customer Innovation Needs
In the current phase, the sensory applications group is explor-
ing how its existing ingredients and technology can be used in
products, but moving forward Butz anticipates the incorporation
of niche technologies based on customer needs, as well as expan-
sion of sensory activities to key global markets such as Asia. At
Site Visit: Renessenz Launches Sensory Applications Center
the same time, he says there are additional functionalities for
some of the companys ingredients beyond cooling, such as avor
modication, which could create new avenues of application.
Flavor, cosmetic and consumer product clients often have
applications needs, a service not always provided by ingredient
suppliers, says Beatty. Combining a technical understanding of
the chemistry of materials and their application plugs a resource
gap for customers, who are starved for ideas.
Supported by sensory applications, customers are able to
address issues directly with the supplier, customize solutions
and be a rst mover in their markets, according to Butz.
Knowledge gained from further understanding of the func-
tionality of products Renessenz produces is also helping the
company to invigorate its innovation activities. This, accord-
ing to sensory ingredients business director, Steve Pringle, is
something which is vital to the medium- and long-term growth
of the business.
The work in confectionery and beverage has allowed us to
understand the requirements for future and current product
demands, says Pringle. This has allowed Renessenz to engage
in collaborative work with companies with enabling technologies
which then allow us to meet the needs of an evolving market, as
well as develop new materials in the sensory space.
A Tour of the Lab
During a recent visit to the sensory applications center, P&F
met with David Sitko, Renessenzs applications manager, who
has experience in both the avor and confectionery sectors,
and Christine Jakes, applications technician. Sitko and Jakes
provided a tour of the space, which includes a reception area,
large conference room and ofce space, in addition the sensory
applications lab.
All applications systems behave differently. For instance, a coolant dosage for a
gummy candy may vary signicantly compared to a beverage, in part due to the
total volume intake of one product versus the other.
The launch of Renessenzs (Jacksonville, Florida) sensory applications center
in Chicago has changed its client relationships by expanding its focus on the
manufacture of aromatic ingredients and cooling agents from natural, renewable
sources, to the application of those ingredients in clients avor, food, beverage,
oral care and cosmetics systems.
PF1409_Industry_fcx.indd 8 8/6/14 1:52 PM
9
The lab, which can work on projects at lab or pilot scale, can
be used in the development of products such as gums, hard
candy, mints and other confectionery, ice cream, oral care, and
alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.
Working on projects in the lab allows the company to gather
insights into its clients processes, Sitko says, ensuring ingredi-
ents are used to maximum effect. This is particularly important
for coolants because all applications systems behave differently.
For instance, a coolant dosage for a gummy candy may vary
signicantly compared to a beverage, in part due to the total
volume intake of one product versus the other. Real-world
sensory applications work identies and addresses these types
of issues mid-process, says Sitko, allowing for fully optimized
formulations.
Working with clients bases in the lab allows the sensory
applications team to assess how ingredients are used from a
Pictured in the reception and ofce area of the new sensory applications site are,
from left: Christine Jakes, Renessenz; Jeb Gleason-Allured, Perfumer &
Flavorist; and David Sitko, Renessenz.
Pictured in the lab, from left, are David Sitko, applications manager, Renessenz;
Jeb Gleason-Allured, Perfumer & Flavorist; and Christine Jakes, applications
technician, Renessenz. The lab, which can work on projects at lab or pilot scale,
can be used in the development of products such as gums, hard candy, mints
and other confectionery, ice cream, oral care, and alcoholic and non-alcoholic
beverages.
nished product sensory point of view, Sitko adds. This aids
the team in understanding product facets such the solubility
of coolants. According to Renessenz, this is just the beginning.
Looking ahead, the sensory applications group will increase
its knowledge of ingredient interactions, build its understand-
ing of consumer needs in various global regions and expand its
knowhow in areas including the effects of trigeminal molecules
on perceptual experience. Partnering with customers, the group
will also look at avor, texture and other functional facets of
products. The result, says Sitko, is that the company will become
a partner with its customers, fostering closer collaboration,
providing an information and formulation resource, and perhaps
even co-development opportunities.
Decoding Food Odor
Of the perhaps 10,000 known food volatiles, just three to, at
most, 40 odorants are responsible for the key signature aroma
of any given food.
1
The total pool of these key odorants is just
230, according to the research recently published by former
Flavorcon (www.avorcon.com) speaker Peter Schieberle and
his co-authors.
Advances in chemical trace analysis and post-genomic prog-
ress at the chemistry-biology interface revealed odor qualities of
natures chemosensory entities to be dened by odorant-induced
olfactory receptor activity patterns, the authors note.
The research, based on the meta-analysis of the available
literature on odorants, could have potential application in the
targeted formulation of avors and fragrances, as well as the
development of more accurate electronic noses. It may also
show that the evolution of odorants and human odor receptors
progressed in parallel.
1. A Dunkel, M Steinhaus, M Kotthoff, B Nowak, D Krautwurst, P Schieberle
and T Hofmann, Natures Chemical Signatures in Human Olfaction: A
Foodborne Perspective for Future Biotechnology. Angewandte Chemie
International Edition, 53(28), 71247143 (2014)
Boosting its flavor, beverage and innovation capabilities,
Archer Daniels Midland (ADM) has acquired Wild Flavors
GmbH in a transaction valued at $3.4 billion (e2.5 billion). The
avor company will be renamed Wild Flavors and Specialty
Ingredients.
The deal is expected to close by years end. Earlier media
reports cited Ajinomoto and Symrise as potential buyers, though
the option of an initial public offering was also reportedly under
consideration.
I am very pleased by ADMs acquisition of Wild Flavors and
the future business we will build together, said Hans-Peter
Wild, chairman of Wild Flavors GmbH, at the time of the
announcement. Wild Flavors unique natural avors strength
and total systems approach will create a very strong and positive
development platform within ADM for our customers as we
continue to drive innovation in the food and beverage industry.
Together, we will be uniquely positioned to offer a broad
range of customersfrom the largest CPGs to fast-growing
innovatorscomprehensive systems-based solutions for food,
beverage and personal care products, said ADM chairman and
CEO Patricia Woertz. With our combined global networks,
world-class research and innovation capabilities, Wild Flavors
natural avor systems, and ADMs texture, nutrition and func-
tional solutions, we will create an unmatched capability to
respond to local consumer preferences and offer complete food
solutions that taste great.
A More Complete Supplier
According to ADM president Juan Luciano, the Wild acquisition
ts well into ADMs existing health and nutrition specialties
strategy, which includes platforms that address texture (textur-
izers), function (emulsiers), nutrition (ber and protein) and,
now, avor. The combined avor and specialties business is
worth about $2.5 billion, post transaction. According to ADM,
the acquisition will produce estimated cost and revenue syner-
gies of e100 million by the third year.
In order for us to continue our strategic growth plan with our
key customers we needed to add avor capabilities, says Luciano.
At the same time, he says, We are mindful that avor is not
for newcomers. So even if we have the capabilities or the func-
tionality to develop that [competency] on our own, it would have
taken too long plus we wanted the reputation of someone
who had been doing this for [about] 80 years. With Wild, when
this opportunity presented itself we thought it was a perfect
t to complement our business.
Luciano says ADM will invest in the growth of Wild Flavors
and Specialty Ingredients, while leveraging the strengths of both
existing organizations.
Sometimes, for a company like Wild, in order to go into a
market they have to establish themselves in that geography, says
Transaction value: $3.4 billion (e2.5 billion)
Wild Flavors estimated 2014 net revenue: e1 billion
ADM 2013 revenue: ~$90 billion
ADM specialty (food and wellness) business combined
sales: $2.5 billion (post transaction)
They [Wild] are stronger in beverage accounts, while
we are probably stronger in some of the large food
accounts. We can take their European business
deeper into the food accounts and accelerate their
penetration in North America.
Juan Luciano, president, ADM
Luciano. ADM is [situated] in many more countriesabout
twice as many. From that perspective, we offer [Wild] a platform
to start from without having to build infrastructure.
Meanwhile, Wild delivers access to key market segments
and geographies, in addition to the expertise of more than 400
scientists and applications development staff. In the last year
the company acquired Alfrebro LLC, a manufacturer of natural
extracts and aroma chemicals, and became a shareholder in
the Brazilian corporation Amazon Flavors, a manufacturer of
natural avors, extracts, emulsions and compounds for Brazils
beverage market.
They [Wild] are stronger in beverage accounts, while we
are probably stronger in some of the large food accounts, says
Luciano. We can take their European business deeper into
the food accounts and accelerate their penetration in North
America. Also, there are some markets that we are planning to
target jointly, like food service, so combined we can signicantly
accelerate our revenue growth.
ADMs grain business, food processing business and newly
expanded specialty business provides it with what Luciano calls
full visibility by connecting origination, processing, ren-
ing and distribution. Unlike its other units, Luciano says Wild
Flavors and Specialty Ingredients will be a business much more
about innovation, specialties and customer intimacies.
As more food companies focus their expertise on their brands
and channel management, suppliers like ADM increasingly
provide those customers with origination, R&D, risk management,
regulatory, innovation and even contract manufacturing services.
I think customers want somebody to bring the full system,
the full solution, says Luciano. Now, with Wild we can be
a more complete supplier to our customers.
Boosting its avor, beverage and innovation capabilities, Archer Daniels Midland
(ADM) has acquired Wild Flavors GmbH in a transaction valued at $3.4 billion (e2.5
billion). The avor company will be renamed Wild Flavors and Specialty Ingredients.
First Person: ADMs Juan Luciano on Wild Flavors Acquisition
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T
he Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC)
got a taste of avor and fragrance trends in New Yorks
stylish SoHo neighborhood during the WFFCs annual
sensory fragrance and avor trend excursion on June 3.
The trek began at Georgetown Cupcakes (111 Mercer
Street), where visitors tried out a wide variety of cupcake
avors, as well as a gluten-free option.
The SoHo outpost of the Washington, D.C.-based company,
which changes its cupcake offerings frequently, featured avors
such as chocolate salted caramel, gluten-free chocolate salted
caramel, vanilla
2
with buttercream frosting or cream cheese
frosting, cherry blossom, cherry cheesecake, chocolate coconut,
chocolate hazelnut, coffee cookies and crme, dulce de leche
cheesecake, lava fudge, lemon blossom, marble brownie fudge
cheesecake, mint cookies & crme, peanut butter fudge, toasted
marshmallow and toffee crunch.
Next, Chobani SoHo (150 Prince St.)
showed visitors that yogurt can be paired
with a number of ingredients to create a
sweet, and even savory, effect. At the SoHo
concept store, which is currently the only
storefront location in the country, the group
tasted unique yogurt dish flavors such as
cucumber & olive oil, which was served
with pita chips and contained cucumber,
extra virgin olive oil, fresh mint and sea salt.
Hummus & zaatar was also served with
pita chips and contained hummus, chick-
peas, zaatar spice blend, extra virgin olive
oil, lemon zest, sea salt and black pepper.
Mango & avocado was served with blue corn
tortilla chips and included mango, avocado,
jalapeos, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt,
fresh cilantro and lime juice. Zucchini pesto
& tomato was served with pita chips and
contained zucchini pesto, roasted cherry
tomatoes, pine nuts, balsamic reduction,
Parmesan crumbles, extra virgin olive oil,
sea salt and black pepper. Red pepper harissa
& feta contained red pepper harissa, feta
cheese, fresh mint, extra virgin olive oil, sea
salt and black pepper and was served with pita chips. Finally, pis-
tachio & chocolate contained pistachios, dark chocolate akes,
sliced orange, fresh mint and clover honey.
After a short walk, Xocolatti (172 Prince St.), a quaint store
which incorporates the owners penchant for jewelry box-type
displays (his father owned a jewelry store), featured gourmet
chocolate avors such as olive oil basil trufe, sake trufe, cham-
pagne brute, coffee nutmeg, cranberry macadamia, gianduja,
mango paprika, raspberry black pepper, rose almond, rose
cardamom, PBJ, pineapple habanero, spiced mint and white
chocolate salted pistachio.
Directly next door, cosmetic specialists at Bite Lip Lab
(174 Prince St.) created custom-made lipsticks and lip mois-
turizers for the group. The brand, which says its mission
is to create lipstick that is high performance and healthy
enough to eat (food-grade) for women everywhere, featured
WFFC Sensory Trend Excursion Offers a Taste of SoHo
From left, back row: Christina Christie (Takasago), Doreen Smith (Yankee Candle), Lauren Ancona (IFF),
Amy Marks-McGee (Trendincite LLC), Catherine Armstrong (Comax Flavors), Nicole Urbanowicz ( P&F
Magazine), Florentina Cimpian (Charkit Chemical), Jeanine Pedersen (Takasago), Christa de Vinck (FFS),
Nicole Isabella (Mane), Karen Adams (Sniffapalooza) and Darryl Do (Delbia Do); middle row, from left:
Grace Khoury and Jeena James (both of Bell Flavors & Fragrances), Italina Schino (IFF), Megan Nolan
and Melissa Bliss (both of Allen Flavors), Kimberly Champon (L.A. Champon),Alpa Roman (FFS), Christina
Smith (Virginia Dare), Molly Schwartz (Mane), Karen Dubin (Sniffapalooza), Marylou Rodriguez (Mane),
Lisa Paloympis and Dyann Coratti (both Intarome), Courtney Jakubecy (L.A. Champon), Kelli Heinz (Bell)
and Debbie OSullivan (Takasago).
Chocolate salted caramel was among the savory and sweet cupcake avor
options at Georgetown Cupcakes.
Xocolattis precious, jewelry-type boxes of gourmet chocolates contained avors
like olive oil basil trufe, sake trufe and more.
13
Amy Marks-McGee (Trendincite) and Jeanine Pedersen
(Takasago) led the WFFCs annual sensory fragrance and
avor trend excursion in New Yorks SoHo on June 3.
Chobani offered a table full of savory and sweet avor combinations in its yogurt creations.
custom-created tubes of lipstick in various avor and fragrance
themes for the WFFC group like WFFC Berries Gone Wild,
WFFC Mango Madness and WFFC Sweet & Natural.
The lab offers a choice of six avors and scents: cherry, mint,
mango, superberry (an aa, blueberry and pomegranate mix),
vanilla and violet. The lipstick trufes that the lab uses to
create custom colors for the lipsticks contain ingredients like
trans-resveratrol, beeswax, argan oil, shea butter and FDA-
approved colorants.
A quick lunch break at Mercer Kitchen (99 Prince Street),
a restaurant conceptualized by renowned chef Jean-Goerges
Vongerichten, featured a lively blend of avors starting with
the restaurants avored soda offerings like black cherry-yuzu,
lemon-lemongrass, ginger-lime and lemon thyme. The appetiz-
ers melded together bold avor combinations such as chilled
artichoke, mustard mayonnaise, chervil and lemon, as well
as roasted baby beets with goat cheese. Main course options
included steamed shrimp salad with avocado, mushrooms and
tomato, champagne vinaigrette or a burger topped with pepper
jack cheese, crunchy red onions, avocado and Russian dressing
served with french fries. Sweet dessert options included warm
Valrhona chocolate cake, cocoa bean brittle and vanilla bean
ice cream or sour cream cheesecake, blood orange sorbet and
kumquat marmalade.
Molly Schwartz (Mane) ponders over her
niche fragrance favorite at Osswald.
Lipstick trufes used to create custom lipstick at Bite Lip Lab are infused with avor
and scent options including cherry, mint, mango, superberry, vanilla and violet.
All WFFC photos by Daniel DErrico
The day ended at Osswald (311 West Broadway), an upscale
parfumerie that originated in Zurich, Switzerland. The store
exhibited an air of exclusivity with a sizable amount of fragrances
priced from about $200 to more than $1,000 and a locked front
door with a buzzer system to enter. The SoHo location special-
ized in more than 20 niche perfume brands, as well as home
care and skin care. The store managers passed around fragrance
blotters and told the stories behind scents like Cuir Venenum
from Parfumerie Gnrale, which was inspired by a leather-clad
model-muse. Roja Parfums, according to the stores manag-
ers, are frequently requested, and the brands newest rollouts
are often backordered at the store. The shop also featured
niche fragrance brands such as Amouage, Arquiste, Boadicea,
Biehl Parfumkunstwerke, Clive Christian, Etro, Huitime Art,
LM Parfums, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Matre Parfumeur
et Gantier, MDCI, Micallef, Parfums de Nicola, Phaedon,
Profumum Roma, Stphane Humbert Lucas777, Ys Uzac
and Xerjoff.
Jaime Soho, created by Takasago Perfumer Patricia Choux,
was the featured take-home perfume gift of the WFFC excur-
sion this year, offering fruity, citrus and apple top notes that
blend into a heart of French macaroons, orange blossom and
jasmine. The base notes of vanilla, sugar, wood and musk offered
a sweet nish to the scent.
Achieving authenticity in commercial prepared foods is a key
challenge in food product development. In response, Givaudan
recently launched its TasteSolutions
a
Richness platform, which
provides convenience foods with consumer-preferred, home-
cooked, authentic tastes for savory applications such as chicken
and beef. (The platform is expanding to segments such as veg-
etables, dairy and cheese.)
The richness proles can be applied to quick-service res-
taurants, dehydrated products such as instant soups and dry
mixes, and ambient wet products such as soups and sauces. The
platform can also be used to transition complex culinary proles
into the snack category.
Richness differs from umami in that umami is a taste sensa-
tion primarily derived from MSG, while richness is the result
of the complex, synergistic chemical interplay created through
fermentation or cooking processes, says Matthew Walter,
Givaudans group leader, culinary application. This complexity
is much better understood now, than in the past, leading to new
innovations.
The TasteSolutions platform has previously addressed health
and wellness-related issues such as salt reduction and umami
for clean-label product development, says Laith Wahbi, global
product manager, savory taste, at Givaudan. TasteSolutions
Richness, he adds, is the next evolution of that platform.
Were looking beyond ingredients like salt and MSG to
provide taste and really understand when we look at a dish thats
prepared at home or a restaurant how taste contributes to that
authentic experience, says Wahbi. We found that it actually
plays a fundamental role.
He explains that, using taste as the key enabler, the richness
platform allows the company to formulate convenience foods for
a commercial environment that have the layered and nuanced
sensory impact of something produced over a period of time or
via multiple steps in a home or restaurant.
It also takes the formulators dependence away from com-
modities such as salt and MSG, the traditional tools of the food
industry, which might have a negative health or label connota-
tion or perception, says Walter. Such next-generation avor and
taste systems are thus, in Wahbis words, healthy by design.
Were not able to braise or slow-cook or roast or ferment
things in an industrial setting, Walter says. With TasteSolutions
Richness were putting that time element back into convenience
food, but still keeping it convenient and driving differentiation
from the consumer eating experience.
Wahbi gives the example of a home-cooked soup, which
develops avor and richness through slow cooking, rather than
using salt or MSG. In the instance of a homemade meat sauce,
he adds, the chef would saut onions in olive oil, then brown
the meat, which would react with the onions, to which elements
a
TasteSolutions is a trade name of Givaudan.
Bringing Kitchen Chemistry Back to Prepared Foods
Read more about the role of research chefs in
the flavor industry in From Idea to Execution:
A Recipe for Food Product Innovation from
the March 2014 issue of P&F;
www.perfumerflavorist.com/magazine/.
such as tomatoes and beef stock might be added, creating yet a
different set of reactionsall of which occur over a prolonged
period, often at varying temperatures. Recreating the chemistry
of such a process, Wahbi says, is a signicant scientic challenge,
particularly since industrial settings often necessitate the simul-
taneous addition of ingredients at a single temperature, which
are then cooked for the briefest possible period.
As a result, Wahbi says, It doesnt give you all that food
chemistry, all those natural reactions that are happening in the
[traditional] kitchen.
In order to build back the desired avor in industrial prod-
ucts, Givaudans chefs begin by recreating the target dish with
the involvement of the companys avorists and scientists, who
in turn assess what cooking processes are involved and what key
avors and tastes are produced as a resultfrom a chemistry
level. The scientists and avorists use those insights to rebuild
the avor and taste matrix developed by the chefs.
The companys internal chefs also collaborate with culinary
innovators such as Alex Atala of So Paulos D.O.M. Restaurante
and Jordi Roca of Spains El Celler de Can Roca via Givaudans
ChefsCouncil
b
program to rapidly translate emerging trends
and insights into the consumer goods space. This translation,
says Walter, requires a strong cross-functional team in-house.
Theres a difference between an idea and an innovation,
he explains. Innovation has to bring value, has to be tangible.
Thats our role as chefs, avorists and research colleagues. Its
about turning it into something of value.
b
ChefsCouncil is a trade name of Givaudan.
Were not able to braise or slow-cook or roast or ferment things in an industrial
setting, says Matthew Walter, Givaudans group leader, culinary application.
Were putting that time element back into convenience food, but still keeping it
convenient and driving differentiation from the consumer eating experience.
Untitled-1 1 4/25/14 1:57 PM
A view of the Payan Bertrand fragrance laboratory, Grasse, France, circa 1930. A distillation underway in copper stills at Payan Bertrand in Grasse, circa 1979.
The Proal family, which includes current Payan Bertrand president Eric Proal
(far left) and managing director Vincent Proal (second from right).
Payan Bertrand celebrated its 160th anniversary June 1314 by taking its full staff and their families on a private cruise
to St. Tropez aboard the Club Med 2. According to the company, the destination had been kept secret until arrival at the
port of Nice. The company notes that the event provided, the opportunity for a time of festive and convivial sharing in
an enchanting setting, at the level of the family values promoted by the company.
The Payan Bertrand staff, circa 1979.
Photo Album: Payan Bertrand Celebrates 160th Anniversary
Untitled-5 1 8/4/14 11:53 AM
Industry notables and celebrities alike gathered together to
celebrate The Fragrance Foundation Awards during a gala on
June 16 at Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center in New York City.
The Fragrance Foundation Awards is the most important
night for the beauty industry, and we are in awe of this years
creative achievements and accomplishments, said Elizabeth
Musmanno, the foundations president. We congratulate all the
winners and nalists who continue to master the art of fragrance.
Carine Roitfeld, the editor in chief of CR Fashion Book,
and model Coco Rocha served as co-chairs of the event. Sony
Music recording artist Judith Hill, who was recently a muse for
a fragrance created by IFF perfumer Celine Barel, performed
her version of the song, Hallelujah.
Leonard Lauder, chairman emeritus of The Este Lauder
Companies, presented the Hall of Fame Award to his friend and
colleague, Michael Gould, the former chairman and CEO of
Bloomingdales.
Thanks to Leonard and Evelyn (Lauder), I stand here in
awe of all the good that they did, said Gould.
No one remembers the numbers; they only remember
what you did for them, added Gould, who said
he would like to share his award with everyone in
the industry.
Carlos Benaim, master perfumer at International
Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), was honored with the
Perfumer of the Year Lifetime Achievement Award.
Nicolas Mirzayantz, fragrances group president of
IFF, presented the award to Benaim and spoke of
the master perfumers remarkable fragrances and
his honorable attributes: I appreciate (Benaims)
passion, talent and kindness.
What really moves a consumer is when [one]
feels the emotion behind the creation, said Benaim.
Benaim also gave a nod to the team at IFF and
talked about the power of collaboration in helping
him reach his goals in perfumery. No one does it
alone, he said.
Award presenters and attendees included
actress Gwendoline Christie from Game of
Thrones, actress Angie Harmon from Rizzoli &
Isles, model Behati Prinsloo, Golden Globe and SAG Award-
winner Michael C. Hall and Academy Award-winner Marisa
Tomei, in addition to host and comedian Dana Carvey, who
mingled with the guests and served as emcee of the event. He
joked how hosting the Fragrance Foundation Awards once
again this year makes him feel like hes now part of the avor
and fragrance family.
Sooner or later, I will be asking for a loan or a ride to the
airport, Carvey said.
The evenings award winners were:
Fragrance Hall of Fame: Clinique Happy (Clinique)
Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year: Mane for Aedes de
Venustas, Iris Nazarena. Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger.
Fragrance of the Year, WomensLuxury: Prive Rose
dArabie (Giorgio Armani)
Fragrance of the Year, MensLuxury: Tom Ford Rive
dAmbre (Tom Ford Beauty)
Fragrance of the Year, WomensPrestige: Este Lauder
Modern Muse Eau de Parfum (Este Lauder)
Fragrance Foundation Awards Unite Perfumers, Scents and Celebrities
Perfumer Ralf Schwieger (Mane) received the Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year
award for Aedes de Venustas, Iris Nazarena.
Carlos Benaim (IFF) was honored with the
Perfumer of the Year Lifetime Achievement
award.
Ann Gottlieb (Ann Gottlieb Associates).
Westley Morris (Mane), Nicole Urbanowicz (P&F Magazine) and Ralf Schwieger
(Mane).
19
Read more about the perfumers honored at this years award ceremony in
Perfumers in Awards Spotlight on Page 56 of the August 2014 issue of P&F;
www.perfumeravorist.com/magazine/pastissues/.
Fragrance of the Year, MensPrestige: Polo Red (LOral/
Ralph Lauren Fragrances)
Fragrance of the Year, WomensPopular: Victoria by
Victorias Secret (Victorias Secret)
Fragrance of the Year, MensPopular: Victorias Secret
Very Sexy Platinum for Him (Victorias Secret)
Celebrity Consumer Choice AwardOur Moment One
Direction (Elizabeth Arden)
Consumer Choice AwardWomens: Victoria by Victorias
Secret (Victorias Secret)
Consumer Choice of the YearMens: Polo Red (LOral/
From left: Tina Sabhnani and Pooja Sabhnani (both of PVM International), and
Doreen Bucher (Symrise).
From left: Isabel Lopes (Avon), and Cosimo Policastro and Alison
Chaneski (both of Givaudan).
Polo Red won three Fragrance Foundation awards.
From left: Laura Slatkin (Nest), Elizabeth Musmanno (Fragrance Foundation)
and Nicole Urbanowicz (P&F).
Rhona Stokols (Symrise) and Jennifer Powderly (Robertet).
Victoria by Victorias Secret won two Fragrance Foundation awards.
Interior Scent Collection of the Year: Passion Collection for
the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (Nest Fragrances)
Media Campaign of the Year (tie)Womens: Jean Paul Gaultier
Classique (Beaute Prestige International) and N5 (Chanel)
Media Campaign of the YearMens: Polo Red (LOral/
Packaging of the YearWomens: Honey Marc Jacobs (Coty)
Packaging of the YearMens: Bottega Veneta Pour Homme
(Coty)
The Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) held its annual
recognition awards dinner on June 18 at Naninas in the Park in Belleville,
New Jersey. Celine Roche (Mane), the president of WFFC (left), presented
the WFFC Annual Recognition awards to four recipients (from left): Kari
Arienti (Symrise), Octavia Jordan (Mane), Karen Alexander (IFF) and
Marie Wright (Wild Flavors).
Rethinking Fresh
From chewing gum to carpet cleaners to fast food offerings,
consumers are inundated with concepts of fresh. Given how
liberally the buzzword is dispensed in the consumer space, its
no surprise that the term remains ill-dened, even opaque.
Manes New York-based fragrance operations offered
a sensory redenition of fresh at its Mane Gallery, which
focused on exploring the specic creative challenges that the
perfume industry faces. The exhibit, Fresh: Perspectives,
opened in April and examined what the idea of fresh means in
the context of culture, history, consumer insights, olfaction and
marketing in perfumery, and beyond.
Some of the challenges displayed to provoke discussion
included an exhibit of canned goods all with similar fragrance
ad campaigns, ironically showing their lack of freshness. Another
exhibit, modeled after a strength-testing carnival game, allowed
industry visitors to smell blotters and guess how consumers
perceived the strength of each fragrances freshness.
The nal display utilized Manes captives to offer a sensory
idea of what new denitions of fresh could encompassinclud-
ing one formula from perfumer Ralf Schwieger of Mane that
evoked a gazpacho-like freshness thanks to tomato extract and
savory, minty and veggie notes. Vincent Kuczinskis fresh scent
was iodized, sensual and ozonic, while Irina Burlakova for-
mulated a take on fresh that was fuzzy, aromatic, sweet and
distinctly candylike.
To expand upon the concept of freshness, the company has
mounted similar exhibits at its Sao Pulo and Paris operations,
both of which reected upon local, unique perspectives on fresh,
distinct from those presented in New York.
Correction & Update
In (Re)Formulating the Future of Health and Wellness,
from the July 2014 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist
Magazine, a paragraph on Page 30 contained some
inaccurate information regarding sugar reduction. The
updated paragraph is presented below, with the corrected
text in bold italics. We regret the error.
Recently, Firmenich continued its taste innovation
expansion in Asia, relocating Imad Farhat, vice presi-
dent of breakthrough cost innovation for avors, from
Princeton, New Jersey, to Shanghai. There, he works
closely with the technical and commercial teams across
Asia Pacic to service the strong demand for healthy
ingredients in Southeast Asia, particularly in Indonesia,
Thailand, Philippines and Malaysia, using technologies
such as taste modulation. The companys TasteGEM*
solutions enable food and beverage companies to
formulate healthier, taste-preferred and cost-effec-
tive products with up to 30% less added sugar. The
range includes the previously mentioned SweetGEM,
which can be combined with natural sweeteners such
as stevia for sugar reductions up to 50% or more.
*TasteGEM and SweetGEM are trade names of Firmenich.
From left: Jim Krivda, Ralf Schwieger, Westley Morris, Gabriela Chelariu and
Vincent Kuczinski. (all of Mane).
Mane Gallery explored the concept of fresh and its context in culture,
perfumery, consumer insights and more.
Untitled-5 1 8/4/14 11:54 AM
22 Ingredients Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
The European Federation of Essential Oils (EFEO) recently
held its annual general meeting in Grasse, France. This report
is based on notes from the organization and Laure Moutet, who
attended the conference.
D
uring its annual general meeting in Grasse, France,
EFEO elected Vilfredo Raymo (Simone Gatto)
president, succeeding Jens-Achim Protzen (Paul
Kaders GmbH), while Jorge Miralles (Indukern) was named
vice president. The event included a gala dinner and a number of
speakers who addressed key concerns for the essential oil industry.
Sustainable Beauty by 2020
By 2020, LOreal envisions that online information and product
innovation will enable every consumer to make sustainable con-
sumption choices, said Marie Helene Beausoleil, head of global
fragrance portfolio and partnership at LOral. Accomplishing
this, she said, will require full involvement of all strategic sup-
pliers in the LOral sustainability program, which is expected
to give more than 100,000 people from underprivileged com-
munities access to work. At the same time, sustainability will be
embedded in innovation, development and production.
The scale of the undertaking is massive. LOral is valued at
more than 23 billion euros and operates 28 international brands
across 130 countries with 77,500 employees. The company holds
about 624 patents and achieves 30% of sales from skin care and
another 20% each from makeup and hair care.
Innovating for these segments will mean boosting product
biodegradability and footprints, particularly in reductions of
the gray water needed to get rid of efuents. They must also
contain renewable raw materials and those derived from green
chemistry. All ingredients must have strong traceability, while
green chemistry materials will be assessed on waste and overall
environmental and functional impact.
Fragrances, in particular, also continue to fall under increased
scrutiny, according to Beausoleil. They will be assessed by the
sustainability policies of suppliers, social and environmental
performance/footprint, and the traceability of the sourcing.
Natural ingredients will continue to be important, said
Beausoleil. Naturals are high-quality, benet from the ancestral
knowhow of producers and formulators, and are highly desirable
for consumers.
However, she said, these materials can have a signicant
environmental impact, and there can be a lack of traceability
throughout the supply chain to the source. At the same time,
the materials can be sensitizers for consumers and are subject
to climatic conditions and attacks from pests. Meanwhile, the
naturals market can be competitive, and producers will continue
to compete with food producers for arable land.
Despite this, Beausoleil noted that there are new synthetic
paths to create ingredients, biotechnology offers new avenues
for ingredient production, byproducts can be used for secondary
industrial uses, and natural ingredient knowhow continues to
be of high value.
The Impact of Bergamot Production on
Growing Communities
About 90% of the global production of bergamot occurs in
Reggio Calabria, Italy, said Stephen Weller, director of com-
munications for the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).
This production spans 1,200 hectares and employs 6,000 people.
But how does this industry contribute to the resilience of the
local economy and community? This was the question at the
heart of a recent survey conducted by IFRA.
The study sought to measure the local growing commu-
nitys ability to withstand stresses and shocks at the household
level, according to Weller. The survey, examined the issue
from cultural, technological, social, political and economic
angles via household questionnaires presented to 326 of 350
Sustainable Beauty, Ethical Sourcing and
Economic Impacts of Essential Oils
Highlights from the annual general meeting of the European Federation of Essential Oils.
From left: Bas Schneiders (Weleda), Stephen Weller (IFRA), Jens-Achim Protzen
(Paul Kaders GmbH), Marie Helene Beausoleil (LOreal), Hlne Perier (CITES)
and Steve Smith (FD Copeland).
From left: Thierry Duclos (Quimdis) and
Jean Mane (Mane).
From left: Incoming EFEO president
Vilfredo Raymo (Simone Gatto) and
Laure Moutet.
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Untitled-4 1 4/30/14 9:35 AM
local farmers, and comprising 150 questions. Both bergamot-
and non-bergamot-growing villages were included to ensure
accuracy of results.
These results told a story of resilience. According to the study
results, bergamot growers prot has grown 85% in recent years,
with just a small increase in overall farming land, meaning the
prot is in the crops themselves. Some of the improvement has
come from stable prices, improved networks among producers
and income diversication. As a result, more young people are
staying in or returning to the region to take part in the local
industry.
The study, said Weller, provides a complete narrative of the
impact of the essential oil industry on local economies, and can
be a key resource when industry engages policymakers. He also
notes that this study can be replicated in other countries.
The Value of the Ethical Trade in Natural
Ingredients
About 78% of Weledas ingredients are organic-certied, said
Bas Schneiders, the companys head of corporate sustainability.
The company has been able to achieve this via a biodiversity
management system, long-term partnerships with suppliers
and implementation of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT)
standards and principles, which, according to Schneiders, offers
an alternative to cumbersome and expensive certications.
The UEBT standard, which can be applied to the cosmetic,
food and pharmaceutical sectors, emphasizes respect for bio-
diversity and partners. UEBT members include companies,
non-governmental organizations and trade associations.
In practice, said Schneiders, UEBT is supplier-focused and
provides a verication system. When implemented, it has pro-
vided Weleda with long-term security in supplying, growing
and planning, enables long-term investments, offers market and
supply chain stability, and builds trust in supplier relationships.
Next, Hlne Perier, scientic ofcer for the Convention on
International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), discussed
the conventions framework, which involves 180 countries and
covers more than 35,000 plants and animals, including 900
species threatened with extinction. An additional 140 species
are currently being considered for protection.
The purpose of CITES is to protect endangered species, not
stop trade, Perier stressed. Once a species is added, its status is
reviewed on a regular basis and monitored by a scientic group
within the European Union. The majority of CITES documents,
totaling about 28000,000 annually, are issued by France, Italy,
the United Kingdom and Germany.
Because CITES uses a one country, one vote system, the
European Union is strong compared to economic powers such
as the United States and China. To illustrate CITES in practice,
Perier explained that guaiac wood (Bulnesia sarmienti; CAS#
8016-23-7; FEMA# 2534) is currently under scrutiny. Sourced
from countries such as Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil and Paraguay,
the species accounts for about 250 tons of extract and 1,400 tons
of wood, according to Periers gures. She declared this total
unsustainable. As a result, CITES has worked to fund new trees
with an investment of about e5 million.
For future meeting information, visit www.perfumeravorist.
com/events/calendar/.
25
September 11BSP 2014 One Day Symposium; Whittlebury,
UK; www.bsp.org.uk
September 1417New Horizons Workshop; Stone
Mountain, GA; www.cspa.org
September 1518WorldFood Moscow; Moscow, Russia;
www.foodexhibitions.com/worldfood-moscow
September 1719Intercharm Ukraine; Kiev, Ukraine;
www.intercharm.kiev.ua/eng/
September 18SFP Seminar: Art & Parfums; TBD,
France; www.parfumeurs-createurs.org
September 18WFFC 32
nd
Annual Gala; Woodland Park,
NJ; www.wffc.org
September 2125IFEAT 2014; Rome, Italy; www.ifeat.org
October 89Society of Flavor Chemists Symposium;
Jersey City, NJ; http://flavorchemists.com
October 16SFP Seminar: La Parfumerie Fonctionnelle;
TBD, France; www.parfumeurs-createurs.org
October 2022Cosme Tokyo 2014; Tokyo, Japan;
www.cosmetokyo.jp
October 2326NAFFS Annual Convention; Longboat Key,
FL; www.naffs.org
October 2426World Congress of Nutrition & Health 2014;
Taiyuan, China; www.bitlifesciences.com/wcnh2014
November 5WFFC Fall Seminar; Saddle Brook, NJ;
www.wffc.org
November 5RIFM 48
th
Annual Meeting; River Vale, NJ;
www.rifm.org
November 12BSP Fine Fragrance Demonstration
Meeting; Manchester, UK; www.bsp.org/uk
November 12Chicago Section IFT Suppliers Night;
Rosemont, IL; www.ift.org
November 20Ple PASS Cluster International
Conference; Grasse, France; www.pole-pass.fr
November 20SFP Seminar: Les rapports entre lArt et la
Parfumerie; TBD, France; www.parfumeurs-createurs.org
2015
November 1517Flavorcon 2015; Atlantic City, NJ;
www.flavorcon.com
December 13Fi Europe & Ni; Paris, France;
www.foodingredientsglobal.com/en/europe/home
2016
June 1315World Perfumery Congress 2016;
Miami Beach, FL; wpc.perfumerflavorist.com
More events are posted at www.perfumerflavorist.com/events.
Filter events by topic and region; submit event announcements;
access exclusive event coverage and photo albums.
Events
PF1409_Industry_fcx.indd 25 8/11/14 8:11 AM
Raw Material Bulletin
Want to connect with a supplier? Contact the editor in chief at jallured@allured.com.
Firmenich offers Firascone, the
closest cyclogeranate to the palette
of rose ketones, which features
subtle notes of saffron and can be
used in a number of rosy and fruity
creations. This ingredient is non-
sensitizing on the skin.
www.rmenich.com
Natural Advantage features worldwide natural bacon dithi-
azine (FEMA# 4017, CAS# 74595-94-1), which is a kosher,
vegetarian, non-GMO ingredient used in onion, savory
roasted or grilled chicken, beef and
bacon flavors. This ingredient
has a fried and roasted taste
reminiscent of chicken, beef
or pork fat, with roasted potato skin
notes. Suggested use levels are 0.52.5 ppm
in consumer products.
www.natural-advantage.net
Mediterranean pine (FEMA# 2906, EINECS, CAS# 8023-
99-2) from Ventos is obtained from the forests of Southeast
Spain and is processed through steam distillation of pine (Pinus
halepensis) splinters. Its odor, which is drier and greener than
other pine essences, is reminiscent of the Mediterranean forest
and has a pine nut smell. It is widely used in perfumery for
fragrance compounds, and blends well with lemon, cypress,
cedarwood and rosemary.
www.ventos.com
Negev Aroma, a joint venture between Agan Aroma & Fine
Chemicals Ltd. and Firmenich, offers Aleol (FEMA# 2563,
CAS# 928-96-1; synonym: leaf alcohol), which has a green,
fruity and herbaceous odor. It is suitable for a wide variety of
fragrance compositions.
The supplier also offers Aleol acetate (FEMA# 3171, CAS#
3681-71-8; synonym: cis-3-hexenyl acetate), which has a fresh
green, fruity odor. It provides green top notes and adds fresh-
ness to orals in fragrance compositions. Also suitable for avor
use, it can be used in a wide variety of fruity notes.
www.agan-aroma.com
Passion fruit aroma, from Artiste, is an aqueous condensate
resulting from the concentration of juice of the purple passion
fruit. This natural from the named fruit (FTNF) product
is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid. Its aroma has the
characteristic odor of passion fruit with juicy tropical notes.
Suggested applications for this ingredient include beverages
such as avored waters, teas and distilled spirits. It is also
widely used to add back the natural, true-to-the-fruit notes in
avor formulations.
www.artiste.us.com
Frescolat SC1, from Symrise, can be used as a cooling agent in
oral care, chewing gum and confectionery products. It enhances
the effect of menthol and has a positive impact on the avor
prole when used in larger doses in combination with menthol.
It also neutralizes the bitter tastes that can result from high
menthol content.
www.symrise.com
Bell Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (FEMA# 2190, CAS# 7492-
70-8) features butyl butyryl lactate, natural, which is a
clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid that is slightly soluble in
water, and soluble in propylene glycol, alcohol and oils. It has a
sweet-sour buttermilk-type odor with a mild-fruity undertone.
Its taste prole is sweet-sour-fruity-buttermilk with a bready
odor and creamy taste. Suggested uses for this non-GMO,
kosher ingredient include imitation butter, butterscotch, fruit
(tutti frutti, etc.), nut, vanilla and other avors.
The company also features dimethyl sulde 95%, natural
(FEMA# 2746, CAS#75-18-3), which is a clear, colorless to pale
yellow liquid that is insoluble in water, yet soluble in alcohol and
oils. It has an extremely diffusive, sharp, green, cabbagelike odor
that is also reminiscent of wild radish. It is used in perfumery,
mainly in the reconstruction of certain essential oils (geranium,
peppermint, etc.). This non-GMO, kosher ingredient is occasion-
ally used in avor compositions for imitation coffee, chocolate,
cocoa, molasses (caramel-treacle) and certain fruit types.
www.bellff.com
International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. offers Karmawood
(CAS# 70788-30-6), which has a substantive woody, powdery
amber, creamy sandalwood note that
adds strength and tenacity to fra-
grances. It is suitable for most end-use
applications.
www.iff.com
SAFC supplies cinnamyl acetate, natural, 95% (FEMA#
2293, CAS# 103-54-8), which has sweet, spicy, oral, cinnamon
and honey taste characteristics with a tutti frutti nuance. Its odor
characteristics are sweet, oral, cinnamon, spicy, estery and
powdery, with a rosy nuance. Suggested avor and fragrance
applications include apple, balsam, cassia, fruit, peach, pine-
apple, vetiver and mimosa.
www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc
Symrise offers a new crystalline quality of Ambrocenide
((4aR,5R,7aS,9R)-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9a-hexamethyl-4H-4a,9-
methanoazuleno[5,6-d]-1,3-dioxole). Ambrocenide Cryst.,
recently shown at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress, is pow-
erful, ambery, warm and woody. This aroma molecule imparts
a unique vibrant sensation and powerful, distinct, intense aura
in fragrance compositions.
www.symrise.com
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30 Flavor Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
cis-Jasmone
This ingredient excels in fruit avors, adding a level of depth,
realism and complexity that has few rivals.
John Wright; johnwrightavorist@gmail.com
C
is-Jasmone (FEMA# 3196, CAS#
488-10-8) has a character that
is exceptionally difcult to pin
down and describe. As the name implies,
it contains a strong oral element and
makes a highly signicant contribution
to the prole of natural jasmine owers.
Nevertheless, from a avor viewpoint,
it would seem to be better classified
primarily as an herbal note. It is
noticeably waxy, but also has distinct
elements of celery and mint.
The odor of this chemical is so
complex that it might seem to have a nar-
rowly restricted range of uses; however,
this is not the case. cis-Jasmone is sur-
prisingly useful in a very wide range of
avors, despite its complexity. It excels
in berry and other fruit avors, adding
a level of depth, realism and complexity
that has few rivals.
The dose rates given below are the
levels of cis-jasmone to be used in avors
that are intended to be dosed at 0.05%
in a ready-to-drink taster or beverage.
Berry Flavors
Blackcurrant: Many blackcurrant
avors are little more than buchu oil-
based caricatures, and cis-jasmone
would frankly be wasted in them. In the
increasingly popular authentic style of
avors, it can play a very useful role at
around 150 ppm.
Raspberry: The best raspberry
avors have a mouthwatering richness
to them, somewhat akin to fully ripened
berries grown at home. This ingredi-
ent makes a major contribution toward
achieving this character at levels around
100 ppm.
Blueberry: The mouthwatering
effect is almost as spectacular in blue-
berry, a avor category that can often
lack depth. One hundred ppm is also an
effective level in these avors.
Blackberry: Blackberry avors are
similar in many respects to raspberry
avors, with an added musky note, but
much else unchanged. Not surprisingly,
this ingredient works equally well at
around 100 ppm.
Gooseberry: This flavor category
is rmly in the minor league, but it is
found occasionally and is not especially
easy to reproduce accurately. Lower levels
of this ingredient are more appropriate,
around 50 ppm in gooseberry avors.
Strawberry: Here the effect of cis-
jasmone is, of necessity, relatively subtle
and so is a distinctly secondary ingredi-
ent. Nevertheless, 10 ppm of cis-jasmone
can make a noticeable difference, espe-
cially in wild strawberry avors, where it
enhances the oral note.
Cherry: Similarly, 10 ppm or less
is all that is required in authentic-style
cherry avors to add a little welcome
depth and complexity. This ingredient
would be wasted in simple tutti frutti-
style cherry avors.
Tropical Fruit Flavors
Mango: In the category of tropical fruit
avors, mango is easily the most appro-
priate avor prole for this raw material.
The slightly waxy, herbal note ts very
well into the mango skin note. Use levels
can vary, depending on the amount of
skin character required, but 200 ppm is
a good place to start.
Pineapple: Fifty ppm is a useful
level for cis-jasmone in authentic-style
pineapple avors. At this level, it eshes
out the character, adding depth and
counterbalancing what can often be an
over-dominant fruity, ester note.
Guava: A level of 50 ppm or rather
less also works quite effectively in guava
avors, adding realism and depth and a
very subtle oral character.
Kiwi: cis-Jasmone adds depth and
complexity to kiwi avors, although it
only plays a secondary role in the avor
PF1409_Wright_fcx.indd 30 8/6/14 1:56 PM
31
To purchase a copy of this article or others,
visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/magazine.
category. A level of 30 ppm is a good
starting point.
Passion fruit: The effect in passion
fruit flavors is quite subtle but, nev-
ertheless, worthwhile, adding useful
realism and complexity at around
10 ppm.
Lychee: Lychee flavors are quite
delicate and already have a notable oral
aspect, so it is important not to add too
much cis-jasmone. Five ppm is an effec-
tive starting level.
Banana: Although banana avors are
generally far from delicate, a similar level
of addition, around 5 ppm, also works
well in this category.
Citrus Flavors
Lime: Lime flavors with the rather
medicinal prole of distilled lime oil can
benet most from this ingredient. One
hundred ppm is an ideal level. Flavors
that exhibit the prole of the fresh fruit
can also benet; however, the level of
addition is lower, around 30 ppm.
Bergamot: cis-Jasmone is especially
effective in bergamot-based flavors
intended for use in Earl Grey tea
because it is similarly helpful in both
the bergamot and the tea proles. Fifty
ppm is an ideal level.
Lemon: Lemon avors benet from
the addition of this ingredient in a very
similar way to fresh lime avors. The
ideal level of addition is similar, around
30 ppm.
Other Fruit Flavors
Apricot: cis-Jasmone is especially effec-
tive in apricot avors, harmonizing well
with the linalool character that often
dominates this avor category. It adds
complexity and enhances the furry skin
note at levels around 200 ppm.
Peach: The effect in peach avors is
very similar to that in apricot avors but,
because the linalool note is normally less
pronounced, the ideal level of addition is
nearer to 100 ppm.
Nectarine: One hundred ppm, or
slightly lower levels, work equally well
in nectarine avors, enhancing the eshy
character and the furry notes.
Apple: Only a trace of cis-jasmone
is required in apple avors, around 10
ppm, but this small addition is quite
effective in adding complexity.
Floral Flavors
Jasmine: Unsurprisingly, cis-jasmone is
an almost essential ingredient in jasmine
avors, adding realism and body. A level
of 500 ppm is a good starting point.
Chrysanthemum: This is an alto-
gether less expected oral use of this
ingredient, but similarly high levels, in
the region of 500 ppm, work equally well
in this difcult avor category.
Other Flavors
Tea: Levels of use in tea avors can vary
dramatically, from up to 1,000 ppm in
black tea avors to 100 ppm in green
tea proles. This ingredient pairs very
well with linalool and linalool oxide, so
the higher the levels of these ingredients
in the tea, the higher the level of cis-
jasmone that can be accommodated.
Peppermint: Many commercial
peppermint avors derive a noticeable
degree of harshness from the presence
of isomenthone and other key ingredi-
ents, together with the relative lack of
rounding ingredients. This chemical
can be very helpful at 50 ppm, adding
body and smoothness in peppermint
avors.
Spearmint: Similar levels also work
well in spearmint avors, adding com-
plexity, body and authenticity.
Honey: cis-Jasmone works best in
honey flavors that have some level of
oral note, and 30 ppm is a good start-
ing point.
Celery: Thirty ppm also adds sig-
nificant realism to celery flavors, a
profile that can often seem a little
one-dimensional.
PF1409_Wright_fcx.indd 31 8/6/14 1:56 PM
Biotechnology Enters Its Next Phase
Recent ingredient launches signal increasing complexity of biotechnologically derived
natural avor and fragrance materials.
B
iotech avors could replace some natural avors,
being manufactured within a controlled environment
at a lower cost, notes a recent UBIC Consulting
(www.ubic-consulting.com) report. They can also replace some
nature-identical avors and justify a natural label.
Indeed, avor and fragrance industry investments in bio-
technology-derived ingredients has ramped up in recent years,
reecting a recognition of potential advantages compared to
some conventional counterparts, including: affordability, avail-
ability, efciency of production and low environmental impact.
Natural Preference in Fragrance and Flavors
Consumers growing preference for natural products is nothing
new, but it is increasing.
One-third of consumers say they prefer personal care
products made with natural or organic ingredients, includ-
ing 25% of men and 38% of women, notes a recent Kantar
(http://us.kantar.com/) report.
The report adds that the preference, depending on age range,
is as high as 43% and 33% for women and men, respectively.
Meanwhile, in the home care arena, a 2013 Mintel
(www.mintel.com) report explains, 64% of consumers said
they would buy more eco-friendly products if they were less
expensive. This attitude has been accompanied by a push by
major retailers such as Walmart and Target into the natural
household and personal care space.
A Packaged Facts (www.packagedfacts.com) report that
tracked the growth in the U.S. natural household surface cleaner
and laundry product market concluded that retail sales rose
from $303 million in 2007 to $640 million in 2011.
The report adds, Correspondingly, 41% of respondents to
an online Packaged Facts consumer survey conducted in August
2012 indicated that they had purchased or used natural, organic,
or eco-friendly household cleaning/laundry products within the
previous 12 months, up from 38% in February 2009.
Simultaneously, consumer attitudes toward natural avors
continue in a similar direction.
According to a 2013 DSM (www.dsm.com) survey of Nigerian,
U.S., Chinese, Polish and Brazilian consumers, more than half
(55%) believe a fresh or natural avor is what makes food taste
delicious, followed by tastes as if it was made at home.
Further Reading: Biotech Ingredients In Use
Dec-9-en-2-one, produced via biotechnology and commercialized by Mane under the Antillone trade name,
is profiled by flavorist John Wright, who discusses its use in tropical fruit, berry, citrus and other flavor profiles.
Read more on Page 16 of the May 2014 issue of P&F; www.perfumerflavorist.com/magazine/pastissues/.
A new Evolva partnership will begin with the yeast fermentation production of
agarwood fragrances; agarwood image via Creative Commons.
Firmenich has scaled up production of a woody patchoulilike fragrance
molecule.
Interestingly, the report added, This was felt most strongly
by urban consumers living in China (72%), while their coun-
terparts in Brazil said they rst and foremost wanted food that
tastes as if it were made at home (67%).
The DSM report concluded, These cravings for fresh,
natural or homemade tastes is one of the more important chal-
lenges for food producers in the face of consumer behavior, as
PF1409_Natural Ingredients_fcx.indd 32 8/6/14 1:58 PM
33
nearly two-thirds (64%) of urban consumers report they are
using the same amount of or more processed food at home than
they were three years ago.
Consequently, it is no surprise that a Markets and Markets
(www.marketsandmarkets.com) report forecasts that the global
natural avors market will be worth $5 billion by 2017. (Research
and Markets [www.researchandmarkets.com] predicts that the
global avor industrynatural and syntheticwill total $13
billion by 2018.) Reportsnreports.com places the growth of the
natural avor and color market at a compounded annual growth
rate of 6.35% through 2018.
Research and Markets explains, [O]ne of the main drivers in
this [food and beverage] market is the increase in the demand
for food products that contain natural avors and colorants.
This demand has resulted from the growing health-conscious
population seeking to consume food and beverage products
that have natural labels on the pack, as they consider them to
be safer and healthier.
Nootkatone & Valencene
The UBIC Consulting report details several ingredients that are
obvious targets for biotechnology production, including vanillin,
furaneol, raspberry ketone and nootkatone. Many, if not all of
these, have already been pursued commercially.
For example, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. (Heerlen,
the Netherlands) has formed an exclusive partnership with
Isobionics B.V. (Geleen, the Netherlands) to distribute valen-
cene and nootkatone to the avor and fragrance market. The
materials, intended to address price stability and supply reli-
ability issues, will be produced via Isobionics fermentation
technology. (Isobionics valencene synthase is detailed in
WIPO patent application WO/2011/074954, which comprises
converting farnesyl diphosphate to valencene in the presence
of a valencene synthase.)
The current supply chain of many natural compounds is
unstable and characterized by high volatility regarding availabil-
ity, quality and pricing, said Toine Janssen, CEO and founder
of Isobionics. With our proprietary fermentation technology,
which is similar to brewing beer, we create the stability and
reliability of supply that the market expects.
The DSM-Isobionics announcement follows the earlier
large-scale valencene production initiated by Allylix (San
Diego), which began producing commercial quantities of
Evolva is expected to launch a biotechnology-derived saffron product in 2016.
the material in 2011. The ingredient was intended for applica-
tion in beverages, confectionery and over-the-counter health
care avors.
Allylix commercialized nootkatone in early 2010, based on
the rms patented metabolic engineering platform, which
enables low-cost production of high-value terpene products
and terpene derivatives through yeast fermentation. The pro-
duction of large-scale commercial quantities is made possible
by 200,000-l fermentation tanks. In 2012, the company also
released its Epivone
a
brand terpene, epi-b-vetivone, for fra-
grance applications. The material has a scent that is reportedly
woody, vetiver, cassis and fruity, with a grapefruit effect. The
ingredient can have 500-hour substantivity on the blotter
and is applicable in cologne, hair care and personal care fra-
grances. At the time of the announcement, the company noted
that annual revenue for similar terpene molecules used in
fragrance applications is estimated between $20 million and
$200 million.
According to the Lexington Herald-Leader, Allylix has
secured incentive financing for a reportedly $1.63-million
laboratory expansion in Kentucky for its flavor and fra-
grance and other product activities. It has also secured a
U.S. patent (8,642,815) for the use of premnaspirodiene as
a starting material for the production of 5-epi-b-vetivone,
2-isopropyl-6,10-dimethyl-spiro[4,5]deca-2,6-dien-8-one and
2-isopropyl-6,10-dimethylspiro[4,5]deca-1,6-dien-8-one, which
are useful for their fragrant qualities. It has also secured a U.S.
patent (8,753,842) for a method for production of isoprenoid
compounds.
Patchouli & Beyond
Elsewhere in the biotech space, Firmenich has scaled up produc-
tion of a woody patchoulilike fragrance molecule, Clearwood
b
,
from the fermentation of sugar cane, at a Brotas, Brazil, facility.
The ingredient debuted at the 2014 World Perfumery Congress
(see Page 60 for coverage).
This technology will enable Firmenich to make differenti-
ated perfume creations with unique renewable ingredients,
said Boet Brinkgreve, group vice president, ingredients at
Firmenich. Our clients expect reliability of supply, cost inno-
vation and olfactive differentiation, all of which we think the
move to Brotas will help support.
Amyris and Firmenich are working on the production of addi-
tional molecules intended for the avor and fragrance industries,
according to the companies. They will share the economic
value derived from the sale of these ingredients, according to
an ofcial press release. These terms are part of an expanded
collaboration agreement for the development and commer-
cialization of avor and fragrance materials. Existing Amyris
agreements with other industry players excepted, Firmenich
has exclusive access to the Amyris technology platform for the
avor and fragrance market in exchange for signicant funding
over the next six years.
Innovation and sustainability are critical pillars of our busi-
ness model, said Firmenich CEO Patrick Firmenich. We are
very pleased with the progress of our ongoing collaboration with
Amyris, grounded in our vision to be the leaders in renewable
ingredients for the avor and fragrance market.
We are excited to expand our productive collaboration with
Firmenich, said John Melo, Amyris president and CEO. The
rapid pace of our targeted ingredient development so far con-
rms our ability to deliver a host of disruptive, competitive
ingredients to our partners and underscores the strategic value
of collaborations for Amyris.
Rob Stone and James Medvedeff of Cowen & Co., quoted by
BiofuelsDigest (www.biofuelsdigest.com), estimated that Amyris
is currently working with ve partners in the avor and fragrance
space, comprising the development of as many as 22 molecules.
Farnesene-derived Materials
Amyris is also focused on producing fragrance materials from
farnesene. The company previously ramped up its production of
artemisinin and the renewable hydrocarbon farnesene, the latter
of which is produced under the companys Biofene brand name.
The company recently announced a partnership with Takasago
(Tokyo) to commercialize novel fragrance products derived from
farnesene, following successful feasibility testing that began in
2012. Scale-up is already underway. The ingredients will reach
the market in 2015.
The use of Amyris renewable farnesene supports Takasagos
goal of utilizing innovative, cost-effective and sustainably
sourced materials to make products that impact our custom-
ers daily lives, noted Masayuki Mita, senior vice president of
the fragrance and aroma chemical division at Takasago. These
new products will address customer demand resulting from the
regulatory phase-out of certain existing fragrance ingredients,
and will be some of the newest and most valuable fragrance
ingredients on Takasagos palette.
Zanna McFerson, chief business ofcer at Amyris, said,
Takasagos strong scientic and manufacturing expertise is
expanding the range of new fragrances made possible through
our innovative technology. We look forward to the commercial-
ization of these products and to the expansion of the portfolio
of products enabled by our building block molecule. The new
fragrance ingredients should help our partner extend the impact
of their products on the diversity of fragrance formulations that
perfumers can reach.
Amyris Brazilian farnesene plant, which is adjacent to a
sugarcane mill, has surpassed a production run rate of 1 million
liters over a 45-day period, with all six fermenters running. In
addition to aromatic ingredients, the farnesene will be applied to
renewable diesel and jet fuels and cosmetic ingredients. Another
farnesene producer, Intrexon, is producing the building block
chemical via bioconversion of natural methane. The company
serves the cosmetics and specialty chemicals sector, as well as
diesel fuels and lubricants.
a
Epivone is a trade name of Allylix.
b
Clearwood is a trade name of Firmenich (read the story of Clearwood on Page
60 of this issue).
Valencene can be produced via
biotechnology.
Nootkatone can also be produced
via biotechnology.
35
Materials Entering New Development Phase
Amyris has also met a technical milestone in the rst phase of
development for renewable avor and fragrance ingredients
for IFF (New York).
This arrangement supports our long-term strategy, which
focuses on both innovation and portfolio maximization, said
Nicolas Mirzayantz, IFFs group president, fragrances. In
our 125-year history, we have been market leaders in the area
of innovation, and this recent work with Amyris reects our
continuing commitment to lead in this area. We believe that the
creation of cost-effective molecules will have a positive impact
on our fragrance ingredients business as well as the creative
capabilities of our fragrance compounds business.
Under the terms of the multi-year agreement, IFF has
exclusive rights to the renewable fra-
grance i ngredi ents devel oped for
applications in the avors and fragrances
sector, and Amyris will have exclusive
rights in other sectors.
Vanillin, Saffron & Stevia
Evolva Holding SA (Reinach, Switzerland)
has announced that it is commercially
launching its vanillin, following a success-
ful pre-production phase. The company
has collaborated on yeast-based fermen-
tation routes in this area with IFF.
Evolvas stevia products, which will
target reduced-calorie formulations,
will likely launch in 2015 or 2016. The
company began that collaboration,
focused on fermentation-based steviol
glycosides, with Cargill in 2013. This year,
the project reached a technical milestone;
as a result, Cargill made a $1-million
milestone payment to Evolva. These pay-
ments could total as much as $7.5 million
in the R&D period.
We are encouraged by this proj-
ects trajectory, said David Henstrom,
Cargills global business director for
health ingredients. We look forward
to offering cost-effective, great tasting,
minor steviol glycosides in the market in
the near future.
A saffron product offering will launch
in 2016. The work, conducted at Evolvas
site in Chennai, India, is focused on opti-
mizing the sensory and cost prole of
the products.
According to the company, Evolva
currently intends to commercialize
saffron ingredients in its own right,
though it will work with distributors,
etc., in a similar manner to resveratrol.
Meanwhile, Evolva has discontinued
a collaboration with IFF to produce an
undisclosed avor ingredient. That part-
nership began in 2012. Evolvas work on
the material may continue independently.
Agarwood
Evolva, in cooperation with BiotechCorp, has also entered into
a collaboration with the Universiti Malaysia Pahang (UMP) to
establish a Malaysian natural product center of excellence in the
regions avor and fragrance cluster. The aim is to apply Evolvas
yeast fermentation production platform to indigenous natural
products for avor and fragrance, cosmetic, pharmaceutical
and other sectors.
The collaboration will begin with the yeast fermentation
production of agarwood fragrances, which the partners hope will
complement the existing traditional production approaches
and signicantly widen the use of agarwood scents worldwide.
Because the Aquilaria and Gyrinops varieties are endangered,
they fall under the Convention on International Trade in
Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). Despite
this, the global supply of agarwood verges on extinction.
If successful, this centers global and multi-disciplinary
efforts will produce both positive economic and environmental
benets for us all, said Evolva CEO Neil Goldsmith.
Malaysia has abundant natural products with high potential
to be developed into high purity, as well as active ingredients for
the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and other high-end industries,
said BiotechCorp CEO Mohammed Nazlee Kamal. This will
create value for other industries with significant economic
opportunities to benet Malaysias bioeconomy agenda.
Renewable Flavor, Fragrance & Cosmetic Ingredients
Symrise (Holzminden, Germany) and P2 Science (New Haven,
Connecticut) have entered a partnership to produce a slate of
renewable ingredients. The partners will scale up the production
of products of immediate commercial interest for commer-
cialization over the next year.
The ingredients will be produced by converting biomass into
specialty chemicals via ozonolysis. Targeted materials include
sustainable versions of existing ingredients and novel aromatic
molecules. Novel materials will undergo performance, toxicol-
ogy and economic feasibility screening. The ingredients that
qualify for commercialization will offer Symrise differentiation
and improved sustainability.
P2 has also entered into a renewable F&F molecule devel-
opment agreement with Bedoukian (Danbury, Connecticut).
Materials of commercial interest will be identied and scaled
up to commercial production levels over the coming year.
P2s unique chemical process technology for the manufac-
ture of chemicals from biomass is a good t with Bedoukians
synthesis and separations technology, a P2 statement notes.
As part of the agreement, the companies will evaluate the
potential for a joint manufacturing installation to serve the
F&F market.
In addressing existing supply and sustainability challenges
and offering potentially novel aromatic proles, biotechnology
investments will likely continue to increase in coming years.
This year, Amyris scaled up production of a fragrance molecule, produced from the
fermentation of sugar cane, at its Brotas, Brazil, facility (pictured). Source: Amyris
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Cicero
Untitled-7 1 7/30/14 11:35 AM
38 Fragrance Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
2014 World Perfumery Congress
Addresses Rapid Changes
Impacting Global Industry
Focused on regulations, innovation, sustainability and new markets,
the WPC provided inspiration for the industrys creative minds.
Victoria Frolova, Bois de Jasmin; special to P&F
Produced by Perfumer & Flavorist and presented by the
American Society of Perfumers, the 2014 World Perfumery
Congress, held June 1012 in Deauville, France, expanded on
the 2012 U.S.-based edition, hosting 1,100 participants, 80-plus
exhibitors and sponsors, and industry-leading speakers and
presenters.
The largest numbers of attendees
hailed from Western Europe, Asia-Pacic
and North America, with strong and
growing contingents from South America,
the Middle East, Eastern Europe and
Africa.
In addition to numerous WPC net-
working events and private celebrations
hosted by leading fragrance companies,
the event included a historic meeting
among global perfumer societies (see Page
56), ensuring the conference was a truly
global event focused on the enhancement
and recognition of perfumery.
Meanwhil e, the organizers have
announced that the next WPC will take
place June 1315, 2016, at the Fontainebleau Resort in Miami
Beach, Florida. Visit wpc.perfumeravorist.com for details and
to sign up for updates.
Editor in Chief
T
he goal of an artist and perfumer is the sameto
touch peoples emotions, said photographer and
artist Fabian Oefner in his keynote speech opening
the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) in Deauville, France, on
June 10, 2014. What is the role of perfume if not to add a touch
of beauty and pleasure to the most ordinary day?
The main themes of the WPCregulations, innovation,
sustainability and new marketsaddressed the goal of captur-
ing consumers imagination, but also focused on inspiring the
creators themselves in all spheres of the perfume industry.
There is no denying that perfumery is undergoing rapid
changes, with the pace of regulation gaining momentum and
the issues of transparency and renewability becoming more
critical. Equally dramatic has been the transformation of the
role of the perfumers, from solitary gures behind the scenes to
multitasking actors speaking for their creations. New challenges
were the leitmotif of the WPC, but so were new opportunities
and inspirations.
Performance Innovations for the Consumer
According to Mintel, 23% of American women and 18% of
American men are confused by the enormous range of fragrance
product offerings. As Ruth Sutcliffe, senior marketing director
and designer at Coty, said during the session on growth oppor-
tunities and innovation, The industry is not responding to what
the consumers want.
More Photos Online
For more 2014 WPC images, visit www.facebook.com/
perfumerflavorist/photos (no login required).
The 2014 WPC, held in sunny
Deauville, France, hosted
1,100 attendees from about
50 countries.
(Continued on Page 42)
PF1409_WPC Roundup_fcx.indd 38 8/6/14 2:01 PM
Discover technical
information by reading
the QR code
with your smartphone
www.rmenich.com
Contact: Marketing.Ingredients@rmenich.com
Created from white biotechnology, Clearwood

delivers all the rewards of modern ingredient
design. Beaming with light, it offers the creamy
warmth of amber and a dark woody character
reminiscent of patchouli.
Clearwood
is a truly inspiring ingredient made

possible by the genius of science and rendered
unforgettable by the perfumers intuition
...this is where the Magic begins.
The Magic Inside
Clearwood
Untitled-1 1 7/25/14 9:27 AM

www.ventos.com
WHEN THINKING
ABOUT NATURAL
MOLECULES,
THINK VENTS
We would like to introduce our new
NATMOL product line made up of natural
molecules with a full secure guarantee.
Because as leaders in essence, we can
assure a strict production control,
from beginning to end.
More than 80 products complying with
all legal requirements and traceable
quality, making the most of our usual
Vents know-how.
Find them at ventos.com/natmols.
If thinking about Ventos, now also think
about natural molecules.
Untitled-1 2 7/25/14 9:32 AM
www.ventos.com
WHEN THINKING
ABOUT NATURAL
MOLECULES,
THINK VENTS
We would like to introduce our new
NATMOL product line made up of natural
molecules with a full secure guarantee.
Because as leaders in essence, we can
assure a strict production control,
from beginning to end.
More than 80 products complying with
all legal requirements and traceable
quality, making the most of our usual
Vents know-how.
Find them at ventos.com/natmols.
If thinking about Ventos, now also think
about natural molecules.
Untitled-1 3 7/25/14 9:32 AM
Opening Cocktail Reception, June 9
The WPC began with an opening cocktail reception, featuring
art by keynote speaker and photographer Fabien Oefner.
From left: Marguerite Gilkes, Lucy Henry (Pyrazine Specialties)
and Emma Marchant (Stort Chemicals).
From left: Michael Lankin and Kaori Matsumura
(both Takasago).
A view of the cocktail reception; at center: Kent Lombard
(Takasago).
From left: Sandra Escobar (Fragransa),
Marisol Cano (Mane Colombia) and
Francisco Roldan (Fragransa).
From left: Erol Meshulam, Misel Gliek and Beril Mesulam
(all MG Gliek International Fragrances Co.), and Gladys
Gabriel (IFF).
From left: Haiqiang Wang (Xiamen Doingcom Chemical Co.,
Ltd.), Herve Fretay (Givaudan) and Patrice Blaizot (Parfum
Cosmetic World).
Davasagar Shetty and Rasika Bhide (both SH Kelkar),
and Stef Korver (PFW).
From left: Prabhukiran Nagaraj Vemulkar
(Padmini Aromatics Pvt.Ltd.), Robby Gunawan
(Pt Indesso Aroma) and Lokesh Nagaraj Vemulkar
(Padmini Aromatics Pvt.Ltd.).
From left: Jei Mckinney and Irenee Philippe (both
Encapsys), and Paige Crist (Perfumer & Flavorist).
(Continued from Page 38)
Untitled-1 1 7/25/14 9:25 AM
Closing Gala, June 12
The 2014 WPC closed with an evening of dinner, cocktails,
dancing, and catching up with new and old colleagues.
From left: Toshihiko Ogasawara (T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd.),
Takayuki Onuma (Morimura Bros., Inc.) and Hiroharu
Kobayashi (T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd.).
From left: Conxa Ferrer, Nuria Bello, Jorge Miralles and
Laura Morillo (all Indukern).
From left: Christian Eberhardt and
Jean-Pierre De Mattos (both Mane).
From left: Michael Klamm, Christel Cuyvers, Marleen Frix,
Alain Frix and Michael Jones (all Renessenz).
From left: Francisco Fernandez (Takasago), Mukesh
Patel (Musks & Fragrance) and Gabriel De Gea Daz
(Takasago).
From left: Lee Beuk (A.C.S. International)
and Takuya Midorikawa (Takasago).
From left: Michael OLaughlin and Olivia
OLaughlin (both OLaughlin Corp.).
From left: Stphane Bengana, Christian Provenzano
and Dominique Preyssas (all CPL Aromas).
From left: Sergi Sanchez, Myriam Zamora, Jorge Guerrero, Bettina Perisson,
Olaf Larsen, Jayram Joshi and Alexandre Cevallos (all Eurofragrance).
From left: Patrick Rogier and Pakker
Dulkarny (both Robertet).
From left: Dian Anggraini Kusumaningrum
and Della Mia Kalumata (both Pt Haldin).
From left: Karen Manheimer (Kerry) and
Hussein Fakhry (A. Fakhry).
Untitled-5 1 8/4/14 11:54 AM
In this light, how does the industry capture the consumers
attention and how does it innovate in its different spheres?
Experts appear to agree that, on the consumer side, there
is stronger demand in multifunctional beauty products. The
traditional eau de parfum, eau de toilette and ancillary ranges
may no longer be enough. Consumer research shows that many
are confused by the concentrations and would rather have an
interesting, distinctive product that will help them create a new
scented ritual. Fragrance brands have responded by crossing
over into skincare, with Chloes Crme de la Rose skincare range
and DKNY Be Delicious Skin being two recent examples.
Technical innovation for long-lasting fragrances is in high
demand, with consumers all over the world wishing that their
perfume lasted longer. For example, Mintel nds that 22% of
American women want more lasting power out of their per-
fumes. For consumer needs in new markets, innovative solutions
are required, such as the development of affordable aroma-
materials, better malodor coverage and new delivery systems.
The discussion on innovation in perfumery touched upon
the role of research and science. Since moods and emotions
are linked with the sense of smell, knowing more about the
way the brain and the olfactory receptors work may elucidate
new avenues for technology. This is still a fairly unexplored
frontier, and in the next 10 years, with further developments
in synthetic biology and brain imagery, fragrance research and
development will likewise evolve. Better understanding the
functional aspects of fragrance materials and the way scents
affect peoples moods and well-being will shape new directions
for innovation.
With regulations creating pressures in the industry, some
producers are responding by offering new and modied prod-
ucts. For instance, Firmenichs Firascone
a
is a response to the
restrictions in the damascone family. Firascone doesnt exhibit
the skin-sensitizing properties of the damascone group, while
its olfactory prole is close to b-damasconefruity and rose-
like, with an herbal, spicy nuance. In naturals, Biolandes has
continued with its low-atranol moss essence. Producers realize
that there may not be much compromise on the regulations,
and they are adapting proactively.
We need to focus on performance, noted Michael
Popplewell, vice president of corporate R&D at International
Flavors & Fragrances, since the world is creating increas-
ingly high demands on clients, customers, perfumers and
researchers.
The ever-present question for the industry is into which area
of innovation does a company invest? The answers range from
investment into developing new ingredients to novel ways of
using existing materials. As regulations limit the perfumers
palette, the focus on investing in new materials, especially high-
performing molecules and ingredients that engage the senses,
becomes stronger. Each company approaches this goal in dif-
ferent ways, and a walk through the WPC exhibit hall revealed
varying examples, from Symrises Vetival
b
to Firmenichs
Clearwood
c
.
On the other hand, Claus Noppeney of Bern University
cautioned that the current focus is overly research-heavy, and
thus too narrow. Non-technical innovation, such as aesthetic
a
Firascone is a trade name of Firmenich
b
Vetival is a trade name of Symrise
c
Clearwood is a trade name of Firmenich
During the closing gala, from left: Daniela Knoop and Kai Kortekaas (both
Symrise), Andrea Wiese (BASF), and Dirk Braun and Petra Shulz (both Symrise).
The goal of an artist and perfumer is the sameto touch peoples emotions,
said photographer and artist Fabian Oefner in his keynote speech.
Author Victoria Frolova (Bois de Jasmin, special to P&F) and
Ralf Schwieger (Mane).
innovation and design-driven innovation, and studies of the
role and value of scent in society and organizations can open
new avenues and complement the programs on ingredients and
technical delivery.
Hand-in-hand with innovation comes education. In tradi-
tional media, perfume is often portrayed as an expendable luxury,
and even a dangerous one. There is a consumer misconception
that chemicals are bad, and with the continuing discussion on
allergens, there will be a need for de-demonizing synthetics,
which will require a strong public education campaign.
47
According to Emmanuelle Moeglin (at right; Mintel), 23% of American women
and 18% of American men are confused by the enormous range of product
offerings; Moeglin was joined by experts, including Tanja Deurloo (at left;
Independent Scent Expert and Founder, Annindriya).
The industry is not responding to what the consumers want, said Ruth Sutcliffe,
senior marketing director and designer at Coty (center); at left is moderator
Jeb Gleason-Allured (P&F) and at right is Anne-Sophie Dussert, R&D head of
development, Clarins.
We need to focus on performance, noted Michael Popplewell (IFF-LMR), at right,
since the world is creating increasingly high demands on clients, customers,
perfumers and researchers. His comments came during a panel featuring Thierry
Audibert (Givaudan), at left, and moderator Miguel Alemay (P&G).
From left: Perfumers Emilie Coppermann (Symrise AG) and Anne Flipo (IFF-LMR)
discussed creativity.
Some of the most vibrant markets for fragrance are the Middle East and Latin
America, while in Japan there has been a growing interest in sophisticated
scents for functional products. Discussing the markets of Asia were, from
left: Jeff Falk (in prole; GCI Magazine), Kenji Maruyama (Takasago), Shigeru
Sawamura (Kao Corp.) and Kedar Vaze (Kelkar Group).
Claus Noppeney (Bern University), at left, cautioned that the current fragrance
focus is overly research-heavy, and thus too narrow; Noppeney spoke during a
session that also featured (at right) Christophe Laudamiel (DreamAir Studio) and
Jenny Tillotson (Central Saint Martins/Sensory Design & Technology Ltd.).
As Sutcliffe observed, We are used to development involving
just three playersR&D, marketing and perfumers. We need
to add the fourth one, the customer.
These customers need authentic and engaging information
on the fragrances they wear.
Navigating New Markets
To attract new markets, the perfume industry needs ways to
capture consumers imaginations and reach fragrance counters
in different countries. Some of the most vibrant markets for
fragrance are the Middle East and Latin America, while in Japan
there has been a growing interest in sophisticated scents for
functional products. But entering these markets is accompanied
by varying challenges that reect the local economic, political
and social frameworks.
The Middle Eastin which Saudi Arabia and United Arab
Emirates form 50% of the regional fragrance markethas
long intrigued fragrance and beauty brands. Saudi and Emirati
consumers have a sophisticated understanding of fragrance and
deep knowledge of perfume rituals. This reects the cultural
predilection toward scents and the traditional use of perfume.
Saudi Arabia is projected to grow its beauty market even further
in the coming years, and by 2018 the market in the Middle East
is projected to be valued at $43 billion.
Olfactively, there has been a shift from the heady, overpower-
ing scents to lighter, fresher creations. This blend of East and
Ahmet Baydar (IFF). From left: Felix Mayr-Harting (Givaudan), Paige Crist (P&F) and Gilles Andrier
(Givaudan).
When consumers know about risks, when they can access relevant information,
they can judge for themselves how to manage risks, but today when it comes to
perfume, they dont have the relevant data, said Julie Girling, MEP for the South
West, United Kingdom, European Parliament.
Discussing the role of packaging design in the sensory experience of brands
were (from left) Anne Abriat (Coty), Francois Duquesne (Fragrance Republic LLC)
and Sandy Gregory (MWV).
West can be a source of much inspiration for the creators, both
domestically and abroad. One of the most enduring trends of
the past few years has been oud, or agarwood. This precious
resin is beloved in the Middle East for its complex aroma of
tobacco, leather and chestnut honey. Oud collections like those
of Tom Ford or Maison Francis Kurkdjian aim as much to give
an unusual scent experience to the consumers in the West as to
entice perfume lovers in the Middle East.
What is the role of perfume if not to add a
touch of beauty and pleasure to the most
ordinary day?
In Latin America, beauty rituals are likewise important,
but capturing this consumer requires a completely different
approach, both in terms of olfactive prole and distribution
patterns. Rapid growth in the region, a vibrant market for beauty
and fragrance products, and high demand for quality products
coincide with the challenges posed by import authorization and
high taxation. There has been a boom in the local brands, which
have to stay competitive in terms of pricing, but also offer luxury
alternatives. In contrast to the opulent blends preferred in the
Middle East, Latin American consumers favor fresh orals,
aromatic and fruity notes, and they are likely to respond to
innovative formulas that leave a cooling effect on skin.
Untitled-9 1 7/31/14 11:27 AM
Any market new to the fragrance brands presents its own
challenges, but a focus on channel priorities, value proposition
and local tailoring will always be essential.
The Impact of Sustainability
With environmental and health issues shaping the global gov-
ernmental and business agenda, sustainability is a topic that no
fragrance company can ignore.
As Saori Dubourg, president of the Nutrition & Health
division at BASF, said, the future is about how the industry
balances its decisions, not only in terms of prot, but also with
regards to its impact on people and the environment. Players,
both large and small, can contribute, and while businesses may
operate sustainably in different ways, the main conclusion of
the WPC conferences on the topic was that it is as relevant and
important as ever.
Sustainability creates its own innovation needs, and different
companies choose different avenues, with most favoring strong
investments into R&D. A company may explore biotechnology
to get higher yields of raw materials or invest in molecular
biology and genetics. Many study the lifecycle of materials
and develop tools to better select within the existing options.
When you peel an orange you get more limonene and citral on your skin than
you do from a fragrance, pointed out Michael Carlos (Givaudan) during a session
that also featured, from left: Thomas Tindemans (H+K Strategies), Charles Cronin
(University of Southern California Law School), Claire Guillemin, Expert for Trade
Secrets, IP and EU Advocacy) and Florina Telea (Policy Ofcer, Legal Adviser,
European Commission).
The Middle Eastin which Saudi Arabia and United Arab Emirates form 50%
of the regional fragrance markethas long intrigued fragrance and beauty
brands, noted a panel that featured, from left, Izaskun Bengoechea (Euromonitor
International), Jayram Joshi (Eurofragrance), Kate Williams (Seven Scent) and
Irina Barbalova (Euromonitor International).
The future is about how the industry balances its decisions, not only in terms of
prot, but also with regards to its impact on people and the environment, said
Saori Dubourg (BASF), center, during a panel that also featured, at left, Jonathan
Warr (Takasago) and, at right, Mickael Blais (Givaudan).
In Latin America, beauty rituals are important, but capturing this consumer
requires a completely unique approach, noted a panel featuring, from left,
Danielle Bibas (Avon Cosmticos Ltda.) and Fanny Moreau (Mon Absolu).
Companies can create ethical sourcing programs that prioritize
sustainable practices for growing materials and offer technical
and nancial assistance to farmers.
The major issue for most sustainability initiatives is the price.
There is no denying that many sustainable technologies and
ingredients often cost more, and changing the economic motiva-
tion of the clients is not always easy. Balancing price concerns
with the goal of sustainability is a constant dilemma for com-
panies, especially in light of the economic pressures on many
businesses today. In the emerging markets, the price point is
an even more sensitive issue, with entirely different constraints
shaping the decision-making.
The consensus of experts at the WPC was that the indus-
try needs leaders to speak out on sustainability issues and
to educate its customers. Messaging about how companies
are developing a new technical platform that will preserve
the environment and biodiversity is important. Since climate
change issues are currently front and center of the environ-
mental debate, this can be tied into sustainability. For instance,
as Bernard Toulemonde, general manager of IFF-LMR
Naturals, noted, the Nagoya protocol (www.cbd.int/abs/text/)
forces companies to deliver information on how they protect
Untitled-2 1 7/25/14 9:37 AM
The nal day of the conference featured talks from (left to right) Michael Carlos
(Givaudan), Patricia de Nicola Michau (lOsmothque) and Sarah Bensadoun
(Fleurs dException du Pays de Grasse).
On the show oor, from left, Veronique Rossow (Phytotrade Africa) and Michel
Mane (Mane).
From left: Paul Laroue (tru fragrance) and Francois Duquesne (Fragrance
Republic LLC) discussed new strategies for reaching consumers in a
multichannel world.
Conference speakers provided exotic and classic scents for attendees.
biodiversity, and fragrance brands in turn can communicate
this to their consumers.
But focusing too narrowly upon sustainability indices and
lifecycle analyses misses out on the crucial component of human
capital, according to the WPC experts. This is especially relevant
for natural raw materials that are often outscored by their syn-
thetic counterparts on existing indices. The jobs that agriculture
generates and the extra industries it supports (such as French
honey production made possible by the lavender elds) make
them an important source of income in the local and national
economies.
As the debate on renewability continues, it is important
to consider that many natural perfumery materials have the
hallmark features of sustainable agricultural products and t
well into environmental programs. Since most dont require
fertilizers or rich soil, they dont compete with food crops and
can be used in conjunction with sustainable agricultural prac-
tices. Growing natural raw materials sustainably means not only
lling the perfumers palette with exquisite essences, but also
protecting local heritage and traditions and supporting farming
communities.
New Ingredient Development Challenges
One of the most critical challenges to perfumery remains the
ingredients. While the need for sustainable naturals is as acute
as ever, the synthetic palette is shrinking. In contrast to previous
decades, the pace of new molecule introduction has slowed,
while the costs of testing materials have increased. Since ingre-
dients can be a rich source of inspiration for perfumers, fewer
new materials means fewer olfactory innovations and fewer ways
to differentiate ones style and signature.
Regulatory discussions are still in progress and their nal
outcome will become apparent only later in 2014, but it is
already clear that developing high-performing molecules forms
the core of research investments. This development comes
in conjunction with the fragrance industrys current focus on
technical delivery, sensory perception and market research.
Changing Role of the Perfumer
Another challengealthough under the right circumstances
it can also be a source of creativityis the changing role of a
perfumer. Even in the last decade, perfumers have seen their
responsibilities and visibility evolve to an unprecedented degree.
Sustainability creates its own innovation
needs, and different companies choose
different avenues, with most favoring strong
investments into R&D.
Untitled-3 1 7/29/14 9:19 AM
Traditionally, perfumers worked behind the scenes, in rela-
tive isolation, which helped them form their own unique style,
but also limited their interaction with other industry actors.
Today, creators need to be inventive and technically skilled in
different areas of perfumery. The briefs are much more numer-
ousbut the rejection rate is higher, tooand it is essential to
know how to prioritize and work as part of a large team.
But the positive aspect of the changing perfumery role is that,
while the number of projects an individual perfumer handles has
increased, so has the availability of new tools. At their ngertips,
perfumers have market research, consumer studies, regulatory
information and many other data to complement their own
creativity. Investment in training future perfumers is as essential
as ever, emphasizing the changing nature of the perfumers job,
the palette of ingredients and client expectations.
Allergens and Consumer Perception: Regulatory
Realities
Since December 2011, when the Scientific Committee on
Consumer Safety (SCCS), an advisory body for the European
Commission, made a proposal on the usage of fragrance ingre-
dients, the topic of regulation has been one of acute concern.
On February 13, 2014, the SCCS published its ndings, which
recommend banning three allergens (hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclo-
hexene carboxaldehyde [HICC], atranol and chloroatranol) and
increasing the list of allergens from 26 to 89. While the shape
of the nal EU directive has yet to be determined, the industry
has already been under scrutiny.
The fragrance industry has self-regulated since 1973, when
it formed the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), but
with growing demands for greater transparency and account-
ability, its methods have been put to the test. Strong pressure
is felt from consumer groups and regulatory bodies to assess
the effects of perfumery ingredients. As Julie Girling, Member
of the European Parliament, explained during the session
titled Building Consumer Condence through Effective Risk
Management, political representatives are asked to manage
risks, and the challenges of this endeavor to the industry are
becoming clear as the regulatory debate unfolds.
One of the critical elements is the need for robust method-
ologies on which the different parties must agree. The difculty
of testing materials is that there are few precise tools, and an
element of judgment is involved. As toxicologist David Basketter
said, Ask ve scientists and you will receive ve different
answers. Scientists disagree on methodology, and the industry
and non-industry scientic bodies come to different conclusions.
From left: Xavier Renard (IFF) and Ruth Sutcliffe (Coty).
From left: Nicolas Mirzayantz (IFF) and
Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang (Henkel).
Patrick Firmenich (center; Firmenich) and Kedar Vaze (at right; SH Kelkar).
The Nagoya protocol forces companies to deliver information on how they protect biodiversity, and
fragrance brands in turn can communicate this to their consumers, said Bernard Toulemonde (IFF-LMR
Naturals), at right, who spoke on a sustainable ingredients panel with, from left, Jason Kelly (Ginkgo
Bioworks), Torsten Kulke (Symrise AG) and Boet Brinkgreve (Firmenich).
55
On the other hand, even if there can be no absolute certainty,
consumers need information and tools to make informed deci-
sions. In Girlings words, When consumers know about risks,
when they can access relevant information, they can judge for
themselves how to manage risks, but today when it comes to
perfume, they dont have the relevant data.
In the end, it is the responsibility of the industry to provide
such information in an accessible and understandable format.
Another important element is the cooperation among differ-
ent players in both developing a robust methodology for testing
ingredients and in responding to the pressures from consumer
and regulatory bodies. The EU proposal has been a major
impetus, and in 2012, IFRA proposed a cooperative approach
which engages the various stakeholders to address issues sur-
rounding fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. The IDEA
Project (International Dialogue for the Evaluation of Allergens)
was born to develop a common framework to understand the
materials and standard methodologies for testing.
Of course, the question remains as to how far the regulations
will go and at what point reasonable concerns become irratio-
nal. As Michael Carlos, president of the fragrance division at
Givaudan, pointed out, When you peel an orange you get more
limonene and citral on your skin than you do from a fragrance.
So, should oranges be labeled too?
Above all, it is clear that the regulatory political environment
can be an obstacle, and the industry needs to be proactive to
address the issue before it becomes a problem.
There is no doubt that todays perfumery industry profession-
als face many pressures and constraints, but it is too early to say
that the golden days have passed. Some challenges require much
work and effort to overcome, as highlighted by the various WPC
discussions, but others can be a source of creativity, inspiration
and, ultimately, growth.
For more information on this and future conferences, visit
wpc.perfumeravorist.com.
Address correspondence to Victoria Frolova, Bois de Jasmin;
boisdejasmin@yahoo.com.
From left, perfumers Jordi Castells (Robertet) and Emilie Coppermann (Symrise AG)
discussed creativity and the changing role of perfumers.
From left, perfumers Rafael Trujillo (P&G) and Jim Krivda (Mane) discussed the
state of the art of perfumery.
International Perfumer Meeting: Enhancing
the Recognition of Perfumery Worldwide
The rst meeting of the international societies of perfumers, held at the 2014 World
Perfumery Congress, addressed global cooperation to support perfumery.
P
reserving the profession, status and knowhow of the
perfumer-creator was the focus of the rst global perfumer
society meeting, which was held on June 10 during the
World Perfumery Congress. Featuring representatives of the
Socit Franaise des Parfumeurs (SFP), Deutsche Gesellschaft
der Parfmeure in der SEPAWA (DGP), British Society of
Perfumers (BSP) and American Society of Perfumers (ASP), the
event presented a historic opportunity for global cooperation
among perfumers.
During the meeting, the participants discussed a global struc-
ture for cooperation, including standardized perfumer-creator
qualication expectations and universal training and knowledge
criteria, in addition to key services for these professionals in
corporate, regulatory and legal settings. Standardization of
perfumer competencies will guarantee quality, the groups say,
but also sustain the image of perfumer-creators worldwide. The
criteria and global structure have been drafted and are currently
under consideration by the perfumery societies.
In recent years perfumer-creators have faced an environ-
ment in which many self-proclaimed perfumers are operating
with no training or ofcial status, diluting the name perfumer-
creator. Protecting the art and profession of perfumery is, thus,
of paramount interest to perfumer societies around the world.
A collective effort will allow the various groups to promote a
unied philosophy and identity and, overall, raise perfumer-
creators proles.
With the support of its membership, the SFP has already
taken steps to form its Cercle program, which has led to the
ofcial recognition of ve perfumers by the French minister
of culture.
During a presentation by SFP representatives on June 10,
the participating perfumery society representatives reportedly
responded enthusiastically, and proposals for next steps were
considered. A follow-up meeting is expected to take place in
France in the early autumn.
We wanted to share the joy of seeing this project [prog-
ress] ... which will formalize and promote the business of
perfumer-creator ... and so create a framework and a recognized
qualication, said Sylvie Jourdet, president of the SFP, in an
ofcial statement (translated from the original French).
During a cocktail reception celebrating the initial meeting
and future cooperation, Chris Diienno, president of the ASP and
perfumer at drom, highlighted the importance of alignment and
collaboration internationally. In a follow-up phone call, Diienno
noted that a focus on the art of perfumery and bringing it to the
fore will prevent its commodication.
I think perfumers across the globe feel this way, that theres
some erosion of the perfumers contribution to the actual
From left: Vincent Kuczinski (ASP; Mane), Jim Krivda (ASP; Mane), Peter Whipps
(BSP), Kate Williams (BSP; Seven Scent) and John Bailey (BSP).
Pictured at the ASP perfumer cocktail party on the WPC exhibition oor were,
from left: Rafael Trujillo (P&G), Ashley Wilberding (Mane), and Jose Maria
Velazquez, Philip Porter and Miguel Alemay (all P&G).
From left: Wolfgang Krause (DGP; BASF), Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang (DGP;
Henkel) and Jim Fassold (ASP; Robertet).
PF1409_WPC meeting_fcx.indd 56 8/6/14 2:04 PM
57
industry, he explained. Perfumery is the total fragrance, not
the sum of the individual ingredients.
Bringing the genius of perfumery into the spotlight and
building consumer understanding of the perfumers role, while
aligning society philosophies, will ensure the longevity and
integrity of the art and industry of fragrance, Diienno explained.
He added, Its about having our industry come back to an
understanding and exposing perfumery as the art it is, the
science used for artistry.
For more information, visit www.perfumers.org or
www.parfumeurs-createurs.org.
Foreground: Sylvie Jourdet (SFP; Crassence); background: Raymond Chaillan (SFP).
From left: John Gamba (ASP; Givaudan) and Chris Diienno (ASP; drom).
From left: Patrick Saint-Yves (SFP) and Maurice Roucel (SFP; Symrise).
PF1409_WPC meeting_fcx.indd 57 8/6/14 2:04 PM
2014 World Perfumery Congress
Exhibition News & Notes
Photos and company news gathered from the exhibition oor.
T
he 2014 World Perfumery Congress exhibition provided a
showcase for dozens of international ingredient suppliers
and service providers to do business, network and
announce new initiatives. Here, P&F provides a selection of
announcements.
Agrumaria Corleone presented its organic and non-organic
lemon, orange and mandarin essential oils, which were either
cold-pressed or distilled. These included conca doro, a furocou-
marin-free colorless lemon oil, and conca doro mandarin oil.
Al-Can Exports presented its aluminum bottle packaging
expertise for the essential oil, avor and fragrance industries. All
bottles were U.N.-certied (X category) for transportation and
storage of dangerous goods, and Drug Master File (DMF) 111
compliant. Al-Can exports to more than 37 countries worldwide
and features high-tech production equipment and customiza-
tion capabilities such as spray painting, logo embossing and
lacquering.
Albert Vieille presented its Caf Sublim ingredient,
a coffee extract produced in cooperation with a Salvadoran
partner. The extract is based on arabica coffee, which comes
from bushy shrubs growing at an altitude between 1,000 m and
1,500 m on the volcanic range south of El Salvador. Coffee cher-
ries are brought to coffee-processing units with the beans dried
in the sun and roasted. The resulting extract is obtained through
additional processing and ltration to create an alcohol-soluble
coffee ingredient that is rich and intense.
BASF presented aroma ingredients based on its citral value
chain, including geraniol, citronellol, linalool and l-menthol. The
companys citral is nature-identical to the main component of
many essential oils like lemongrass, and is used for fresh-citrus
and fruity notes in fragrances and avors. Citronellol is used
for a fresh, powerful and long-lasting rose fragrance, and is a
valuable component for fresh-oral compounds. l-Menthol is
used for cool freshness in various products in oral care, body
care, avorings and pharmaceutical applications. The company
recently announced the joint investment of about $500 million
with Petronas Chemicals Group in an integrated aroma ingre-
dients complex in Kuantan, Malaysia. The rst new plants of
the complex are expected to come on-stream in 2016 and will
create about 120 new employment opportunities.
Berj introduced its Farm to Fragrance program, a trace-
ability system for essential oils, which allows customers to track
ingredients by batch number back to the distillery and the
cultivation source. The system also allows for a more direct
connection between perfumers and distillers by providing access
to raw material data, farm practice and distillation techniques.
The online interface provides a map of the growing region,
the identities of farms involved in production, slideshows of
distilleries and information on the raw material. The growing
region information includes climatological data and botanical
descriptions, while farm biographies include photos, location,
hectare totals, growing practices, photos and more.
Biolandes presented marshmallow absolute (F1450), which
is obtained from the dried roots of the marshmallow plant and
has a mineral and metallic top note, with overtones of leather,
which harmonizes well with juniper berry. Licorice roasted
70%/MPG (F9863) is extracted from roasted licorice roots,
offering the aroma of grilled peanut with a spicy edge evocative
of cashew nuts. Armoise Inco 100 (F0367) is obtained from the
herbaceous Artemisia herba-alba shrub by extraction followed
by molecular distillation to reveal a different facet of this plant.
Its mild, menthol-like green notes evolve toward a g leaf
inection, creating a syrupy effect reminiscent of barley water,
with subtle spice touches of cinnamon bark. Ambreine (F0049)
production has been revitalized by the start-up of Biolandes
new sustainable, eco-friendly gum labdanum extraction unit
in Andalusia. This ingredient has unique facets of amber and
leather, while the resin lends base notes an oilbanumlike quality
with woody accents.
Contexa showcased its expertise in the engineering and
production of automatic compounding machines for avors
and fragrances. The company presented Colibri, a volumetric
dosing system for liquids with any physical properties, and
Niagara, a robot capable of dosing bulk liquids at a rate of up
to 15 m
3
per hour.
Connect with a Supplier
For supplier information and contacts, write to
Jeb Gleason-Allured; jallured@allured.com.
BASF exhibition.
PF1409_WPCExhibition_fcx.indd 58 8/6/14 2:05 PM
Untitled-3 1 6/3/14 9:36 AM
DRT displayed ingredients produced via bio-based chemistry
utilizing rosin and turpentine extracted from pine, including
Sylvamber, which is powerful, woody, cedrous, ambery, warm
and has strong tenacity. Intended for ne fragrance, personal
care and air care, the ingredient can play a role in rounded and
long-lasting perfumes. The company is planning to launch a
biomass power station, which is expected to substitute fossil
energy consumption, leading to a zero-CO
2
-emission site for its
production. DRT is also constructing a new platform in the
southeast United States for the management of raw materials.
Diffusions Aromatiques highlighted its expertise in natural
ingredients (including CO
2
extracts), organic products and
aroma chemical raw materials. Serving the avor, fragrance and
cosmetics industry, the company underscored its global sourcing
network and contacts with quality producers.
Du Bois, in conjunction with Asia Plantation Capital
Distilleries, presented pure oud oil, which is produced from
sustainable plantations. There has been increasing demand for
the product, which has traditional and even spiritual connota-
tions, while also offering olfactory value for haute perfumery.
Oud oil has a near mythical status and fast-growing demand
from the cosmetics industry. The oud oil on display is produced
under consistent quality and standards and has softer tones
and less of an animalic note compared to traditional types. Each
1 kg bottle is sealed at the source, and the age and planting date
of the trees recorded to maximize traceability. Asia Plantation
Capital plants at least 20 new trees for every oud tree harvested,
boosting sustainability. Each oil comes with CITES certication,
guaranteeing the sustainability of the oil produced and ensuring
it is legal. This rened version of oud oil was produced as part
of a soil to oil program that involves academics and industrial
production-line experts. The company notes, Every stage of the
process from initial plantation stock and land selection, to the
inoculation techniques and end processing systems have been
subjected to rigorous scientic analyses and review.
In addition to its ingredients such as amyl and methyl cinnamic
aldehyde, benzaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, and
C6, C8 and C10 linear aldehydes, Emerald Kalama Chemical
showcased its new launch, methyl benzoate. The ingredient
reportedly has a sweet, heady oral odor reminiscent of tropical
ower varietieswith some balsamic or spicy undertones, and
is based on non-phthalate benzoate chemistry. The material is
intended for use in personal care (including shampoos, shower
products, face/neck care products, body care, liquid soaps, hair
colorants and cosmetics, and mouthwash), fragrance, and food
and beverage applications, and for a base in ne fragrances such
as those featuring tropical ylang-ylang ower notes.
Encapsys presented its chemistry solutions for the fragrance
industry. The company works with fragrance providers to offer
performance solutions designed around its EnSensa microen-
capsulation technology.
Along with Firascone (olfactively the closest non-sensitizing
ingredient to the rose ketones) and Z11 (a dry and elegant pre-
cious wood), Firmenich launched its trademarked Clearwood
ingredient at the 2014 WPC. The material is created via fermen-
tation of sugarcane, producing a material that is patchoulol-rich,
with woody and patchouli notes. The ingredients development is
aligned with the companys focus on environmental impact, says
Julien Firmenich, particularly as no volatile solvent is required,
while the feedstock is renewable and produced in a region
benetting from heavy rainfall. Meanwhile, the biotechnology
process involves a simple, calibrated fermentation not unlike
beer brewing. The result is an affordable price structure and an
efcient production process. Firmenich adds that the launch of
this ingredient is just the beginning for biotech ingredients. In
the future, he says, this platform will allow further innovation
on existing ingredients. In addition, new/novel chemicals will
be produced for the perfumers palette.
While Firmenich says the Clearwood launch is an important
and encouraging milestone for the companys biotechnology
platform, he adds that the organization remains committed
to traditional chemistry, which will continue to be a source
of innovation, perhaps in conjunction with biotechnologically
produced materials.
Firmenich perfumer Wessel-Jan Kos describes Clearwoods
prole as, Enlightening and offering a creamy warmth of
Robertet exhibition. Firmenich exhibition.
Takasago exhibition.
Untitled-6 1 7/24/14 12:17 PM
amber with dark woody notes. In formulations, Clearwood
can deliver richness for modern chypres that eschew patchoulis
traditional dirty notes. Kos adds, When used as a building
block, Clearwood brings a soft creaminess reminiscent of
natural sandalwood.
In addition to its ingredient offerings, Givaudan announced
the launch of the Givaudan Foundation, an independent non-
prot organization focusing on three main areas: communities
at source (support of local communities from which Givaudan
sources natural ingredients), blindness and family nutrition.
Matthias Whren, Givaudans CFO, will be president of the
groups board of trustees. The foundation has already launched
several projects in Haiti, Laos, Madagascar and Comoros
Islands.
Global Essence presented its ranges of fragrance raw
materials, including absolutes, English essential oils and native
extracts.
IFF-LMR presented contemporary takes on classic ingre-
dients, including LMR Rose Ultimate Extract produced with
an updated extraction process, netting a material that has notes
of fruit, honey, tobacco and rose; LMR Rose Essential Low
ME, which has a low methyl eugenol content; LMR Cinnamon
Essential, which is spicy and oral, the result of a new extraction
process; and LMR ylang absolute, described as a radiant and
warm solar oral, with tiare ower accents, which features a
salicylate/salty note to boost greenness in formulations.
Indesso Aroma presented Florinol, a natural aroma chemi-
cal that gives more than 99% mosquito repellent efcacy over
eight hours (applied in hand/body lotion, tested by an indepen-
dent laboratory). Florinol is a non-allergenic substance with
oral, green and sweet notes. The ingredient addresses the
need for leave-on skincare to address anthropod insect bites,
which, according to World Health Organization statistics, kill
one person every 30 seconds. There are various essential oils
containing molecules that have such efcacy.
Jiangsu presented its lily aldehyde, a colorless to pale yellow
liquid with a sweet and fresh scent of lily. Jiangsu was founded
in 2011 and manufactures synthetic fragrance and avor ingre-
dients for the cosmetics, personal care, soap, detergent and
toiletry markets. The company recently received ISO 9001 and
kosher certicates.
Nactis, through its Synarome brand, launched new products
inspired by Deauville. Taking a cue from the seaside towns
hallmarksthe sea, Norman countryside and horse races
these new creations boosted the imagination of the brands
clients, functional perfumery and ne fragrance perfumers.
The companys anisaldehyde diethyl acetal had a delicate, mild
oral-sweet odor that was hawthornlike, with almond and cherry
nuances, on a sweet-soft balsamic and powdery background.
Algenone white was a modern interpretation of algenone that
was more transparent and musky than the original. Vetiverol
BM was an earthy and natural, ne and elegant vetiver note.
p-Cresyl caprylate had an intense animalic and fur note with
green and hay aspects. Cuir HF is a harmonious, classic leather
scent with a fresh citrus (bergamot) top note fused with a oral
(orris and violet) spicy head, rounded off by precious woods
and musky tones. Cuir de Russie was a strong and powerful
classical leather material that began with aldehydes married to
an orange blossom heart.
OLaughlin presented its latest additions to its expanding
product line, including Cyclemal, which utilizes a new process
to achieve improved performance at a lower cost, and oral
anise forte, which gives a more cost-effective option compared
to conventional offerings, and raspberry ketal, which is no longer
cost-prohibitive.
Organica Aromatics presented 14 new products, including
Geosmin, Galbutenon, Iris OA, Strawberone, IBQ and Floral
Dec. The company is a niche, research-driven, specialty aroma
ingredients manufacturer based out of Bangalore, India, and is
a subsidiary of Sabinsa Corp. USA.
To highlight 100 years of history in the avor and fragrance
industry, PFW highlighted a number of products, including
Emeraldine and a sneak preview of Product CF, a new, unique
aroma chemical soon to enter the fragrance ingredients market.
The company also presented isojasmone and cyclomyral, along
IFF exhibition.
Mane exhibition. Givaudan exhibition.
63
with more recent introductions such as sagecete. PFW pre-
sented a tropical showcase off the show oor, which included
a focus on Tropicate, which works in many product categories
and across a multitude of fragrance directions.
Payan Bertrand presented its HTC range of high-temper-
ature dry distillations of concretes, gums and balsams. These
traditional products were enhanced using technology to comply
with regulations to reduce PAH and BTEX contents and offer
a colorless and stable liquid form that is highly soluble. The
companys Terima Kasih Indonesia Specialties include a new
colorless patchouli quality from Acehs mountains in Indonesia,
a low-pressure java vetiverol fraction, which enhances powdery
orris aspects and fresh sparkling accents, and benzoin Sumatra
colorless, which results from a strict selection of benzoin white
tears. In addition, Payan Bertrand presented its new natural
blend range, including jasmine and neroli.
Primechem presented its range
of synthetic and natural lactones.
Primechems most recent product
launches include cis-jasmone, dihy-
drojasmone, lactone of cis-jasmone,
methyl-2-nonenoate and rose oxide (by
photo-oxidation).
Provence Naturals highlighted
sustainable essential oils, particularly lav-
ender, lavandin and clary sage from France.
The materials are produced in partner-
ship with Comit Interprofessionnel
des Huiles Essentielles Franaises and
FranceAgriMer.
Sasis, a subsidiary of the Lesaffre
group, presented its Safrom (produc-
tion of natural aromatic molecules by
fermentation) and Saftoll (customized
fermentation service) molecules, which
are natural in accordance with EU-
(1334/2008) an US- (FDA 101.22(3))
guidelines. Sasis has built a new distil-
lation workshop specializing in natural
vanillin downstream processing, with the
rst production starting this summer.
SensaPeel displayed its samplers for
essential oils, aromatic chemicals and fra-
grance materials that utilize a medium
that is malleable and publishable, and
which allows potential customers to
interact with manufacturers products.
Sealed between two layers of lm, the
fragrance inside remains unharmed until
the lm is peeled back and the fragrance
released, yielding a personal and faithful
sample of the fragrance.
Sud Graphic presented its exper-
tise in manufacturing blotters, smelling
strips and by-products for the cosmetic
and perfume industry. Sud Graphic is
one of the rst companies to obtain both
Programme for the Endorsement of
Forest Certication (PEFC) and Forest
Stewardship Council (FSC) certicates.
PFW exhibition.
Symrise displayed Ambrocenide Cryst, described as a
powerful ambery, warm woody aroma molecule that has the
crystalline quality of Ambrocenide; Mysore Acetate, which
had oral, fruity, violet and woody notes, which can be used
in compositions to boost fruit notes or deliver body to violet-
oral compositions; the spicy Poivrol, with notes of pepper,
laurel leaf and wood; and Vetival, which has notes of vetiver,
wood, citrus and oralcy, which can be used for radiant,
grapefruity top notes, as well as soft ionic-oralcy for veti-
iver compositions.
TFS launched its rst commercial supply of plantation-grown
sandalwood. Santalol oil is produced from the Santalum album
trees grown naturally in plantations in Australias tropical north.
TFS has grown, processed and distilled the oil, creating a new
level of transparency in the global sandal-
wood market, according to the company,
where ongoing Indian export bans and
declining wild supplies have led to wide-
spread adulteration and poaching. Santalum
album is now nearing extinction in the wild.
TFS manages the worlds largest area of S.
album plantations and, in 2014, completed
its rst commercial harvests of about 15,000
trees. TFS recently announced two major
agreements with a global pharmaceuti-
cal company, which include the licensing
of dermatology products containing TFS
plantation-grown Indian sandalwood oil.
Takasago introduced optically active
fragrance ingredients derived from renew-
able myrcene, including Levocitrile. The
companys Thesaron is manufactured using
renewable bioethanol, and has a 100% bio-
based index, according to the company. This
approach contrasts with conventional rose
ketones, which are produced with petro-
leum feedstocks and can be sensitizing on
skin. (Read more about the companys
activities with Amyris on Page 34.)
Vents presented labdanum coeur,
which has a strong odor of Cistus lan-
daniferus obtained using a short-path
distiller. The companys patchouli cristallis
is obtained by concentration of patchouli oil
and subsequent renement by molecular
distillation. The material comprises 80%
patchouli alcohols and goes straight into
the undertones of patchouli oil, avoiding the
top earthy and herbaceous notes, accord-
ing to the company. Vents cedarwood Atlas
Supra maintains the essence of the original
oil, but increases the balsamic and oriental
top notes, giving a powerful product with
a luxurious tenacity. Vents also displayed
Mediterranean pine obtained by steam dis-
tillation of Pinus halepensis splinters, giving
an authentic pine odor.
Symrise exhibition.
Untitled-4 1 7/25/14 1:10 PM
66 Flavor Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
Organoleptic Characteristics
of Flavor Materials
Judith Michalski, Senior Flavorist, abelei avors; jmichalski@abelei.com
-6-Hexadecenlactone, natural (synonym: ambrettolide)
Source: Fleurchem Inc.
FEMA# 2555, CAS# 7779-50-2, natural
Odor: @ 1%. Musky, perfumy, powdery and berrylike.
Taste: @ 0.2 ppm. Musky, perfumy, oral, berrylike and powdery.
Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Musky, perfumy, powdery, waxy and soapy.
Possible applications: It is well known that a very little musk will
go a long, long way. This particular material is no exception,
and will enhance blackberries and blueberries, raspberry,
cherry, pear and red licorice, and all blends thereof.
Fleurchem Inc.; www.eurchem.com
Methyl laurate, natural
Source: SAFC
Natural occurrence: Apple, banana, blackberry, cheese, cognac,
coconut, papaya, melon, mussel, rum, star fruit and turnip.
Odor: @ 100%. Soapy, waxy, fatty and crayonlike.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Waxy, fatty and soapy with a dairy nuance.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Sweet, soapy, waxy and astringent.
Possible applications: Used sparingly, methyl laurate will endow
dairy avors with body and fattiness, especially hard cheeses,
butter, milk and cream. It can also be considered to amplify
the fatty acid complex in fat replacer avors.
SAFC; www.sigmaaldrich.com/safc
Ethyl phenylacetate, natural
Source: SAFC
Natural occurrence: Apple, beer, cocoa, guava, honey, olive,
melon, papaya, pineapple, plum and grapefruit.
Odor: @ 1%. Sweet, oral, honeylike and cocoalike, with a slight
animallic undertone.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Honeylike, sweet, oral and fruity.
Taste: @ 4 ppm. Floral, honeylike and sweet, with a chocolate
nuance.
Possible applications: The sweet, oral, fruity notes of this ester
will enhance the ripeness of yellow fruits like peach, apricot,
mango, papaya, guava, apple and pear. Its honeylike prole
will t very nicely into brown avors like honey, chocolate,
brown sugar, molasses, maple and dried fruits, namely prune,
raisin and g.
2-Octanone, natural
Source: SAFC
Natural occurrence: Apple, butter, cheddar cheese, rice, cocoa,
mushroom, krill, milk and potato chips.
Odor: @ 1%. Blue cheeselike, ketonic, waxy, earthy, musty,
creamy and mushroomlike.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Solventlike, waxy, cheesy and musty, with a
dairy nuance.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Blue cheeselike, ketonic, waxy, slightly moldy,
creamy and mushroomlike.
Possible applications: This product will especially enrich the
proles of cultured dairy products, including cultured butter,
sour cream, buttermilk, cottage cheese, kefir and mold-
ripened cheeses like Brie, St. Andr, blue and Gorgonzola.
Other avors where it will contribute to the earthy complex
are mushroom, cantaloupe and cucumber.
a-Iso-methylionone
Source: Vigon
FEMA# 2714, CAS# 127-51-5
Not yet found in nature.
Odor: @ 1%. Sweet, raspberrylike, woody, oral and powdery.
Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Sweet, berrylike, fruity, oral and powdery.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Woody, berrylike, fruity and oral.
Possible applications: This powerful ionone will complement
the woody, oral complex of berry avors like red and black
raspberries, blackberry, cherry, blueberry and grape, as well
as red licorice, Swedish sh and fruit punch.
Vigon; www.vigon.com
Panelists
Judith Michalski
Cyndie Lipka, Senior Flavorist, Bell Flavors & Fragrances
Gerard Mosciano, Consulting Flavor Chemist
Robert Pan, Senior Consulting Flavorist
Deborah Barber, Senior Scientist, Kraft Foods
Carl Holmgren, Consulting Flavor Chemist
Tom Gibson, Cyndie Lipka, Senior Flavorist, Bell Flavors &
Fragrances
PF1409_Michalski_fcx.indd 66 8/6/14 2:06 PM
67
2,6,6-Trimethylcyclohex-2-ene-1,4-dione (synonym:
ketoisophorone)
Source: Vigon
FEMA# 3421, CAS# 1125-21-9
Natural occurrence: Lemon balm, mate, saffron, shrimp, tea,
tobacco.
Odor: @ 100%. Sweet, tealike and slightly cooling, with a
molasses note.
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Tealike, slightly fruity and slightly brown.
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Tealike, with a brown, dried fruitlike undertone.
Possible applications: Black tea, raisin, g and prune are good
applications for this component. Its fruity notes will also
enliven the proles of raspberry, blackberry, g, peach,
apricot, mango, melon, tobacco and davana-replacer avors.
Vigon; www.vigon.com
Isophorone
Source: SAFC
FEMA# 3553, CAS# 78-59-1
Natural occurrence: Papaya, patchouli oil, cabbage, cranberry,
roasted hazelnut, labdanum, grapefruit, macadamia nut and
mushroom.
Odor: @ 1%. Sweet cooling, fruity, berrylike and slightly brown,
with a hint of honey.
Taste: @ 5 ppm. Slightly oral, honeylike and slightly brown.
Taste: @ 10 ppm. Floral, berrylike, honeylike and dried fruit-
like, with a cooling lift.
Possible applications: The interesting combination of notes in
this material can be well-used in diverse avors like honey,
mead, maple, tobacco, dried fruit, raspberry, blueberry,
cherry, peach, mango, apricot, and herbal and black tea.
2-Octanol, natural
Source: SAFC
Natural occurrence: Geranium oil, mint, rue oil and lavender.
Odor: @ 1%. Waxy, earthy, mushroomlike, cheesy and oily.
Taste: @ 0.5 ppm. Creamy, waxy, cheesy, earthy and
mushroomlike.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Mushroomlike, earthy, waxy, blue cheeselike
and creamy.
Possible applications: The creamy, waxy notes of octanol will add
richness and depth to many dairy avors, especially those that
have been subjected to heat, like dulce de leche, condensed
milk and melted butter. Mold-ripened and aged cheeses are
also good applications, as are mushroom, coconut and animal
fat-replacer avors.
2-Methyltetrahydrofuran-3-one, natural (synonym:
coffee furanone)
Source: Advanced Biotech
Natural occurrence: Coffee, cocoa, tobacco, pumpkin, beef,
chicken and hazelnuts.
Odor: @ 100%. Solventlike, brown and slightly pyrazinelike,
with a whiskey endnote.
Taste: @ 25 ppm. Nutty, brown, caramellic and alcoholic.
Taste: @ 50 ppm. Brown and rummy, with a hint of hazelnut.
Possible applications: Brown avors are the obvious choices for
this materials use, including coffee, caramel, bread crust, but-
terscotch, toffee, mocha, dulce de leche and vanilla. Other
areas where it will add to the casky character are in brown
liquor avors like bourbon, rum and whiskey.
Advanced Biotech; www.adv-bio.com
Methyl 2-furoate, natural
Source: SAFC
Natural occurrence: Coffee, hazelnut, blackberry, Cognac,
peanut, honey, passion fruit, guava, dried bonito, peanut
and wine.
Odor: @ 1%. Rubberlike, chemical, burnt, brown and sweet.
Taste: @ 1 ppm. Sweet, brown and burnt.
Taste: @ 2 ppm. Astringent, sweet, brown, burnt sugarlike and
slightly bread crustlike.
Possible applications: Used carefully, this material can enhance
brown notes in caramel, burnt sugar, tobacco, rum, smoked
meats, roasted nuts, and baked-type avors like bread crust,
cookies and toasted coconut.
PF1409_Michalski_fcx.indd 67 8/6/14 2:06 PM
Mountain Savory Oil
Savory oil of commerce is known to be
produced from both Satureja hortensis
L. and Satureja montana L. This latter
member of the Lamiaceae is a perennial
taxon that can exist in numerous subspe-
cies forms, although the one commonly
used for oil production is S. montana
L. subsp. montana, which can be found
growing from Spain to southern Albania.
An oil of S. montana obtained from
plants grown experimentally in the Pisa
area from cuttings collected from plants
growing in Val di Vara (Italy) was the
subject of analysis by Angelini et al.
(2003). They found that the main com-
ponents of this oil were:
a-pinene (0.8%)
camphene (0.2%)
b-pinene (0.2%)
myrcene (1.9%)
a-terpinene (2.0%)
p-cymene (9.7%)
limonene (0.4%)
1,8-cineole (0.2%)
g-terpinene (13.2%)
linalool (0.3%)
borneol (0.7%)
terpinen-4-ol (0.1%)
thymol (0.3%)
carvacrol (56.8%)
b-caryophyllene (3.6%)
germacrene D (0.4%)
Chizzola (2003) examined the compo-
sitions of the volatiles of four populations
of S. montana from France. The popu-
lations were collected from Utelle
(Alpes-Maritime at 830850 m), Rougon
(Alpes-de-Haute-Provence at 950 m),
Mont Ventou (Vaucluse at 10801090
m) and Plateau de Gras (Ardche at 210
m). The first three populations were
found growing in the pre-Alps limestone
region, while the fourth was growing
west of the Rhone on a limestone
plateau. The author obtained represen-
tative volatile concentrates by extracting
0.20.3 g of the leaves of single plants
using 1.52.0 mL of methylene chloride
in an ultrasonic bath for 30 min. After l-
tration, the extract was directly analyzed
using GC/MS only. The variability of 11
selected components of 3340 analyses
of all populations, except for the one
from Utelle, can be seen in T-1. The
variability in the quantitative results is
not unexpected, even though the plants
harvested were all owering, because
the small sample taken from each plant
was not sufcient to average out within
plant variation that is known to occur
within the Lamiaceae family. Finally, it
was revealed that the population from
Utelle was mixed between the carvacrol
forms and the linalool forms so that data
will not be reported.
Satureja montana plants that were
collected in Dalmatia (Croatia) were
dried and subjected to hydrodistillation
by Radonic and Milos (2003). Analysis
of this oil revealed that it was thymol-
rich, the full composition of which was
reported to be as follows:
a-thujene (1.0%)
a-pinene (1.0%)
a-terpinene (3.5%)
g-terpinene (5.9%)
p-cymene (6.4%)
allo-ocimene (0.6%)
1-octen-3-ol (0.7%)
trans-sabinene hydrate (0.2%)
linalool (0.6%)
methyl thymol (5.1%)
methyl carvacrol (5.8%)
borneol (3.9%)
a-humulene (0.3%)
a-elemene (0.3%)
b-bisabolene (1.1%)
geranyl acetate (2.1%)
nerol (1.1%)
geraniol (5.0%)
thymol (45.2%)
carvacrol (5.3%)
incorrect identication based on GC elution order

Trace amounts (>0.1%) of b-pinene,
terpinolene, a-copaene, b-bourbonene,
b-cubebene, zingiberene, g-cadinene,
d-cadinene, a-muurolene, neral, geranial
and 3-phenylpropanol were also charac-
terized in this oil.
Skoci busi c and Bezi c (2004a)
screened an oil of S. montana for its
antimicrobial activity. The oil, which
was produced by hydrodistillation from
plants collected from the sub-Medi-
terranean region of Biokovo Mountain
(Croatia), was analyzed by GC/MS only.
The constituents characterized in this oil
were as follows:
Progress in Essential Oils
Brian M. Lawrence, Consultant
T-1. Percentage composition of the volatiles in three populations of Satureja montana
Compound Rougon Mont Ventou Plateau de Gras
myrcene 0.62.2 0.92.8 0.92.8
a-terpinene 0.42.3 0.82.6 0.82.9
p-cymene 034.4 7.025.1 020.8
limonene 0.25.9 04.6 0.14.4
g-terpinene 3.220.5 4.724.0 4.922.5
linalool 0.52.5 0.44.0 0.54.2
borneol 0.13.2 0.33.2 0.42.4
thymoquinone 0.46.1 0.15.9 0.12.5
methyl carvacrol 04.1 09.5 00.3
carvacrol 31.665.0 32.467.8 31.7.62.0
b-bisabolene 0.43.8 0.34.0 0.53.8
PF1409_Lawrence_fcx.indd 68 8/6/14 2:07 PM
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Untitled-7 1 7/30/14 11:35 AM
a-thujene (1.8%)
a-pinene (1.0%)
myrcene (0.8%)
a-terpinene (1.5%)
g-terpinene (8.1%)
p-cymene (12.6%)
1-octen-3-ol (0.7%)
linalool (0.5%)
aromadendrene (<0.1%)
a-terpineol (0.5%)
borneol (4.8%)
b-cubebene (0.5%)
d-cadinene (0.4%)
thymol acetate (0.2%)
caryophyllene oxide (0.4%)
spathulenol (0.3%)
thymol (3.9%)
carvacrol (45.7%)
Skocibusic and Bezic (2004b) col-
lected S. montana from the littoral part of
Brac Island (Croatia) during the months
of JuneOctober. Oils produced from the
plants at three distinct ontogenetic states
(pre-owering, full owering and post-
owering) in the range of 1.22.2% were
analyzed by GC/MS only. The results of
these analyses are reported in T-2.
Pre-owering plants of S. montana,
which were collected from Zabljak
(Serbia) by Bezbradica et al. (2005), were
hydrodistilled to yield an oil in 0.93%
yield. Analysis of this oil by GC-FID and
GC/MS revealed that it had the following
main components:
a-thujene (1.0%)
a-pinene (1.5%)
camphene (1.4%)
1-octen-3-ol (1.0%)
myrcene (0.7%)
a-terpinene (1.4%)
p-cymene (28.8%)
limonene (0.9%)
1,8-cineole (0.4%)
(Z)-b-ocimene (0.1%)
g-terpinene (1.7%)
terpinolene (1.2%)
linalool (0.4%)
borneol (3.8%)
p-cymen-8-ol (0.4%)
cuminaldehyde (0.4%)
thymol (33.4%)
carvacrol (4.2%)
allo-aromadendrene (0.2%)
b-bisabolene (4.7%)
(Z)-a-bisabolene (0.3%)
T-2. Comparative percentage composition of oils produced from three
ontogenetic stages of Satureja montana
Compound Pre-flowering Fall-flowering Post-flowering
oil oil oil
a-thujene 1.4 1.3 1.3
a-pinene 0.6 1.4 2.2
myrcene 0.9 0.6 -
a-terpinene 1.7 0.9 -
limonene - - 1.1
g-terpinene 5.8 4.9 -
p-cymene 3.8 15.2 25.6
allo-ocimene* 0.9 - -
1-octen-3-ol 0.4 1.0 1.4
trans-sabinene hydrate 0.3 0.2 1.2
camphor - - 0.7
b-bourbonene - - 0.3
linalool 0.5 0.6 0.9
methyl thymol 3.2 3.3 12.8
methyl carvacrol 4.6 6.4 5.4
b-caryophyllene 1.8 1.3 1.3
aromadendrene 0.2 0.3 0.5
a-humulene 0.2 - -
neral - 0.6 -
a-terpineol - 0.3 0.6
borneol 3.2 6.5 11.5
b-cubebene 0.4 - 0.7
geranial - 0.9 -
b-bisabolene 0.5 - 1.5
geranyl acetate - 5.2 -
d-cadinene 0.3 - 0.2
nerol - 0.9 0.2
geraniol - 10.2 -
thymol acetate 0.2 - -
caryophyllene oxide - 1.2 2.8
spathulenol - 0.3 0.7
thymol 11.0 5.4 2.6
carvacrol 52.4 26.2 16.1
*correct isomer not identied
2-methoxy-4-ethyl-6-methylphenol
(0.9%)
doubtful correct identication

An oil produced in the laboratory in
1.4% yield from S. montana plants that
were grown near Tehran was analyzed by
Omidbaigi et al. (2007) using a combina-
tion of gas chromatographic techniques.
The oil was found to possess the follow-
ing composition:
a-thujene (1.1%)
a-pinene (0.5%)
b-pinene (0.9%)
myrcene (1.6%)
a-terpinene (2.8%)
p-cymene (4.7%)
limonene (0.5%)
1,8-cineole (0.5%)
g-terpinene (16.3%)
thymol (1.6%)
carvacrol (65.8%)
germacrene D (0.7%)
Cavar et al. (2008) collected S.
montana from two different popula-
tions in Bosnia Herzogovina (Trebinje
and Konjic). Oils produced from the
air-dried plants whose maturity states
were not described were hydrodistilled
to produce oils (no yields given) that
were analyzed by GC/MS only. The ana-
lytical results of this study are reported
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Untitled-1 1 7/25/14 9:30 AM
in T-3. The trace components (<0.5%)
that were reported to be characterized
in one or both oils were cis-p-mentha-
2,8-dien-1-ol, piperitenone oxide,
a-calacorene, 1-epi-cubenol, T-cadinol
and 14-hydroxy-a-muurolene.
A carvacrol-rich commercial oil of S.
montana of Slovenian origin was ana-
lyzed using GC-FID and GC/MS by
Stoilova et al. (2008). The constituents
characterized in this oil were as follows:
a-thujene (0.6%)
a-pinene (2.8%)
camphene (0.6%)
sabinene (0.1%)
1-octen-3-ol (1.1%)
b-pinene (0.2%)
myrcene (1.1%)
3-octanol (0.5%)
a-phellandrene (0.5%)
p-cymene (11.0%)
a-terpinene (1.3%)
limonene (1.3%)
1,8-cineole (1.0%)
(Z)-b-ocimene (2.1%)
(E)-b-ocimene (0.1%)
g-terpinene (6.2%)
terpinolene (0.2%)
cis-sabinene hydrate (0.7%)
linalool (1.6%)
a-thujone (0.1%)
camphol (0.8%)
borneol (2.4%)
g-terpineol
(0.2%)
a-terpineol (1.4%)
neral (0.1%)
geraniol (0.1%)
carvone (0.5%)
piperitone (0.1%)
geranial (0.1%)
thymol (8.6%)
carvacrol (41.5%)
carvacrol acetate (0.1%)
geranyl acetate (0.1%)
b-bourbonene (0.1%)
a-humulene (0.3%)
aromadendrene (0.2%)
germacrene D (0.1%)
bicyclogermacrene (0.1%)
b-bisabolene (1.0%)
does not occur naturally

Trace amounts (<0.05%) of thuja-
2,4(10)-diene, b-phellandrene, b-thujone,
isoborneol and caryophyllene oxide were
also characterized in this oil.
Grosso et al. (2009) compared the
compositions of hydrodistilled oils and
T-3. Comparative percentage composition of the oils of two populations of
Satureja montana from Bosnia Herzegovina
Compound Population 1 oil Population 2 oil
1-octen-3-ol - 0.6
3-octanol - 0.1
cis-sabinene hydrate 0.1 3.7
trans-linalool oxide
f
t 0.2
cis-linalool oxide
f
t 0.2
trans-sabinene hydrate 0.2 2.5
linalool 0.1 1.1
cis-p-menth-1-en-1-ol 0.1 0.7
2-ethylhexanoic acid
0.1 -
trans-p-menth-2-en-1-ol t 0.5
trans-verbenol 0.2 0.2
borneol 2.9 4.8
cis-linalool oxide
p
0.2 -
trans-linalool oxide
p
0.2 -
terpinen-4-ol 0.8 10.3
p-cymen-8-ol 1.8 1.4
a-terpineol 1.9 1.5
cis-piperitol - 0.2
myrtenol - 0.1
trans-piperitol 0.1 0.4
nerol - 2.0
methyl thymol - 0.5
trans-chrysanthenyl acetate
- 0.1
cuminaldehyde t 0.2
neral - 0.5
methyl carvacrol - 1.1
thymoquinone 2.8 0.1
geraniol 0.1 22.3
geranial - 1.1
2-ethyl menthone
0.2 -
bornyl acetate - 0.1
thymol 31.7 3.8
o-acetanisole
- 0.4
cuminyl alcohol - 0.2
carvacrol 23.3 10.6
cis-piperityl acetate - 0.1
a-terpinyl acetate - 0.1
thymol acetate 0.1 -
eugenol 0.1 t
a-copaene - 0.1
b-bourbonene - 0.4
geranyl acetate - 0.1
b-elemene - 0.1
b-caryophyllene - 2.9
b-copaene - 0.1
aromadendrene - 0.1
4-t-butylcatechol
1.1 -
a-humulene - 0.1
allo-aromadendrene - 0.1
g-muurolene - 0.1
germacrene D - 1.9
bicyclogermacrene - 1.0
b-bisabolene - 0.7
g-cadinene - 0.1
73
was hydrodistilled for 2 hr. The oil, which
was analyzed by Vidic et al. (2009) using
GC/MS only, was determined to possess
the following composition:
1-octen-3-ol (1.4%)
3-octanol (0.2%)
a-terpinene (0.1%)
p-cymene (0.3%)
1,8-cineole (0.1%)
g-terpinene (0.1%)
linalool (0.3%)
cis-p-menth-2-en-1-ol (0.1%)
trans-p-menth-1-en-1-ol (0.1%)
camphor (0.1%)
borneol (5.3%)
p-cymen-8-ol (0.2%)
a-terpineol (0.3%)
cis-dihydrocarvone (0.1%)
trans-dihydrocarvone (0.1%)
thymoquinone (0.6%)
thymol (20.1%)
carvacrol (59.1%)
thymol acetate (0.2%)
carvacrol acetate (0.3%)
a-gurjunene (0.1%)
aromadendrene (0.4%)
a-humulene (0.1%)
allo-aromadendrene (0.1%)
g-muurolene (0.1%)
viridiorene (0.2%)
b-bisabolene (2.0%)
d-cadinene (0.1%)
thymohydroquinone (0.2%)
spathulenol (0.6%)
globulol (0.1%)
cubeban-11-ol (0.1%)
rosifoliol (0.1%)
humulene epoxide II (0.1%)
14-hydroxy-9-epi-b-caryophyllene (0.2%)
epi-a-bisabolol (0.1%)
Tr ace amount s ( <0. 1%) of
trans-piperitol, isobornyl formate, cis-
piperitenone oxide, bornyl acetate,
b-bourbonene, b-cubebene, g-amorphene,
a-muurol ene, g-cadi nene, trans-
cycloisolongifol-5-ol (doubtful correct
identication), a-cadinene, a-calacorene,
caryophylla-4(12),8(13)-dien-5a-ol,
caryophylla-4(12),8(13)-dien-5b-ol and
T-muurolol were also reported as con-
stituents of this oil.
A lab-distilled oil of Satureja montana,
which was produced from dried leaves
grown in Evora (Portugal), was screened

T-3. Comparative percentage composition of the oils of two populations of
Satureja montana from Bosnia Herzegovina (Cont.)
Compound Population 1 oil Population 2 oil
butylated hydroxytoluene
0.1 0.1
d-cadinene t 0.2
dihydroactinodiolide
0.4 0.1
a-cadinene - 0.1
salviadienol
*
- 0.1
(E)-nerolidol 0.3 -
spathulenol 3.0 3.1
caryophyllene oxide 7.7 5.2
viridiorol 0.3 -
salvial-4(14)-en-1-one t 0.2
humulene epoxide II 0.3 0.3
guaia-6(10),14-dien-4b-ol - 0.1
torilenol 0.2 0.3
caryophylla-3(15),7(14)-dien-6a-ol 0.5 0.1
caryophylla-3(15),7(14)-dien-6b-ol 2.2 0.4
isospathulenol t 0.2
3-isothujopsanone
0.2 0.2
b-eudesmol 0.2 -
a-cadinol 0.5 -
14-hydroxy-b-caryophyllene 2.6 0.4
14-hydroxy-9-epi-b-caryophyllene 4.1 0.8
khusinol
0.5 0.4
6a-hydroxygermacra-1(10),4-diene
- 0.1
eudesma-4(15),7-dien-1b-ol t 0.1
oplopanone 0.1 -
benzyl benzoate 0.2 -
hexadecanoic acid 1.0 -
heneicosane t 0.1
docosane t 0.2
tricosane 0.1 0.6
tetracosane 0.3 1.2
pentacosane 0.3 1.6
hexacosane 0.3 2.4
doubtful correct identication
incorrect identication
*
correct isomer not determined
f
furanoid form
p
pyranoid form
t=trace (<0.05%)
supercritical fluid CO
2
extracts of S.
montana (performed under different
pressures) collected at their full ower-
ing stage from a medicinal garden at Ejea
(Spain). The results of the analyses per-
formed using GC-FID and GC/MS can
be seen summarized in T-4. The yield of
oil from the dried plant material, which
was reduced to different particle sizes
(0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm), was 1.11.6%;
the smaller the particle size, the higher
the oil yield. The yield of volatiles found
in the supercritical uid extracts ranged
from 0.91.8%, the highest being found
with dried plant material with a mean
particle size of 0.6 mm at 40C and 100
bar pressure, and a 1.1 kg/hr ow rate
of CO
2
.
Silva et al. (2009) also compared the
compositions of a hydrodistilled oil and a
supercritical uid extract of S. montana;
however, these results were previously
published by Grosso et al. (2009).
Satureja montana plants collected
at the commencement of flowering
near the village of Pijavicino (Peljesac
Peninsula, Croatia) were dried at
ambient temperatures, and a 10 g sample
for its nematicidal activity by Barbosa et
al. (2010). Analysis of this oil by GC-FID
and GC/MS revealed that it possessed
the following composition:
a-thujene (2.3%)
a-pinene (1.5%)
camphene (0.1%)
1-octen-3-ol (0.3%)
b-pinene (0.5%)
myrcene (2.5%)
a-phellandrene (0.4%)
d-3-carene (0.1%)
a-terpinene (4.1%)
p-cymene (7.1%)
b-phellandrene (0.2%)
limonene (0.4%)
g-terpinene (39.8%)
borneol (0.1%)
carvacrol (38.8%)
Trace amounts (<0.05%) of 3-octanol,
(E)-b-ocimene, terpinolene, cis-dihy-
drocarvone, a-terpineol, thymol and
b-bisabolene were also found in this oil.
Grosso et al. (2010) screened the oil
and supercritical uid CO
2
extract for
their anticholinesterase and antimicro-
bial activities. They reported the same
compositional data, as was reported by
Grosso et al. (2009) and Silva (2009).
Finally, a summary of the published
data on the composition of savory oil
(Lawrence, 1979, 1981, 1988, 1992,
1996, 2003) reveals that S. montana
oil possesses six chemotypic forms. A
comparison of the major components
found in these six chemotypic oils is
shown in T-5.
L.G. Angelini, G. Carpanese, P.L. Cioni, I. Morelli,
M. Macchia and G. Flamini, Essential oils
from Mediterranean Lamiaceae as weed
germination inhibitors. J. Agric. Food Chem.,
51, 61586164 (2003).
R. Chizzola, Volatile oil composition of four
populations of Satureja montana L. from
southern France. Acta Hort., 598, 143147
(2003).
A. Radonic and M. Milos, Chemical composition and
in vitro evaluation of antioxidant effect of free
volatile compounds from Satureja montana L.
Free Radical Res., 18, 17 (2003).
M. Skocibusic and N. Bezic, Phytochemical analysis
and in vitro antimicrobial activity of two
Satureja species essential oils. Phytotherap.
Res., 967970 (2004).
T-4. Comparative percentage composition of the oil and the volatiles of supercritical
uid CO
2
extracts of Satureja montana produced under different pressures
T-5. Percentage composition of the oils of six chemical forms of Satureja montana
Compound Oil SFE 90 bar SFE 100 bar
a-thujene 0.40.6 0.10.3 0.20.3
a-pinene 0.40.7 00.3 0.2
camphene 0t 00.1 0t
sabinene 0.10.2 00.1 t0.1
1-octen-3-ol 0.10.2 t0.2 0.1
b-pinene 0.50.8 0.40.6 0.71.2
myrcene 0.71.1 0.30.6 0.40.8
a-phellandrene 0.2 0.10.2 0.10.3
d-3-carene t0.1 0t t
a-terpinene 1.21.8 0.71.4 1.01.9
p-cymene 6.912.8 6.010.9 8.917.8
1,8-cineole 0.30.5 0.20.4 0.30.6
b-phellandrene 0.30.5 0.20.4 0.30.6
limonene 0.20.4 0.10.3 0.3
(Z)-b-ocimene 00.1 00.1 -
g-terpinene 6.49.4 2.35.5 3.16.0
trans-sabinene hydrate 0.40.5 0.30.7 0.30.6
terpinolene 0.2 0.10.2 0.10.3
cis-sabinene hydrate 0.1 00.2 0.1
linalool 0.60.8 0.51.1 0.91.0
borneol 0.70.8 0.70.9 0.60.8
terpinen-4-ol 0.60.7 0.4 0.40.6
a-terpineol 0.2 0.10.2 0.20.3
carvone 00.1 0.10.3 0.10.3
thymoquinone 0.2 1.63.1 2.52.9
methyl carvacrol 0.1 - 0t
thymol 8.611.0 6.010.9 9.111.3
carvacrol 52.262.0 52.764.5 41.752.8
b-bourbonene t0.1 t0.1 0.1
b-caryophyllene 1.31.5 1.41.5 1.32.1
trans-a-bergamotene 0.10.2 t0.3 t0.5
g-muurolene 0.1 00.2 0.1
germacrene D 0.20.3 00.3 0.30.5
b-bisabolene 2.02.7 2.53.0 2.23.5
d-cadinene 0.2 00.2 0.20.3
thymohydroquinone 0.30.4 0.30.5 0.40.6
caryophyllene oxide 0.20.3 0.10.2 0.10.2
a-bisabolol 0t 0t 0t
t=trace (<0.05%)
Compound 1 2 3 4 5 6
a-pinene 0.41.4 t1.1 1.71.8 0.1 0.4 0.2
myrcene t0.2 t1.2 t0.2 0.1 0.51.9 4.9
g-terpinene 3.510.3 1.815.1 8.111.6 1.3 1.96.4 1.0
p-cymene 2.513.0 2.214.6 4.68.9 0.9 3.712.5 0.6
linalool 0.30.6 0.10.6 0.20.4 72.2 27.829.9 0.6
terpinen-4-ol 0.11.2 3.14.1 0.10.6 8.5 6.811.5 14.9
a-terpineol 0.33.1 2.44.4 0.20.7 1.9 11.527.7 18.0
thymol 53.565.7 1.08.0 22.342.6 0.6 2.29.0 14.5
carvacrol t6.8 46.575.0 17.631.0 t 04.2 3.7
t=trace amount (<0.05%)
Speaker Lineup:
Ken Bickerton, CIH, CSP, Phase Associates LLC
Patrick McNamara, Scarinci & Hollenbeck
William Brugger, Ph.D., Global Directions, Inc.
Mike Bloom, Flavor & Fragrance Specialties
Craig Hagelin, Frutarom USA
Joe Piazza, Comax Flavors
Henry Sethness, Sethness Products Company
Steve Somers, Vigon International
John Wright, Flavorist
Steve Pearce, Omega Ingredients Ltd.
Chef Gary Patterson, McCormick & Co.
How FIavor & Ingredient Companies are Meeting
Customers' New Food Safety Requirements
97
th
Annual Convention
October 23-26, 2014
The Resort at Longboat Key CIub,
Longboat Key FIorida
Presentations & nteractive Sessions:
You Want What?? Addressing Your Customers' New Food Safety & CIean
LabeIing Requirements
Industry-Specific LegisIative, ReguIatory & LegaI Updates
WorkpIace Safety CompIiance - WiII YOU be Ready?
Automating CompIiance - Your Key to SurvivaI
Workshop: A Perfect Storm
Shake It Up - The Chemistry Of CocktaiIs
Tastes of Tomorrow - A GIobaI Look (and Taste) of Emerging FIavor Trends
Join us in Longboat Key and waIk away with strategies, new
connections and innovative ideas to take back to your business.
keg|strat|on & 0omp|ete 0eta||s
at www.naffs.org
uest|ons: 732-922-3218
Untitled-5 1 7/24/14 11:46 AM
M. Skocibusic and N. Bazic, Chemical composition
and antimicrobial variability of Satureja
montana L. essential oils produced during
ontogenesis. J. Essent. Oil Res., 16, 387391
(2004).
D.I. Bezbradica, J.M. Tomovic, M.S. Vukasinovic, S.
Siler-Marinkovic and M.M. Ristic, Composition
and antimicrobial activity of essential oil of
Satureja montana L. collected in Serbia and
Montenegro. J. Essent. Oil Res., 17, 462465
(2005).
S. Cavar, M. Maksimovic, M.E. Solic, A. Jerkovic-
Mujkic and R. Besta, Chemical composition
and antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of
two Satureja essential oils. Food Chem., 111,
648653 (2008).
R. Omidbaigi, S. Rahimi and Sh. Kazemi,
Comparison between essential oil content
and compositions of winter (perennial) and
summer (annual) savory. J. Essent. Oil Bear.
Plants, 10, 480485 (2007).
I. Stoilova, S. Bail, G. Buchbauer, A. Krastanov,
A. Stoyanova, E. Schmidt and L. Jirovetz,
Chemical composition, olfactory evaluation
and antioxidant effects of the essential oil of
Satureja montana L. Nat. Prod. Comm., 3,
10351042 (2008).
C. Grosso, A.C. Figueiredo, J. Burillo, A.M.
Mainar, J.S. Urieta, J.G. Barroso, J.A. Coelho
and A.M.F. Palavra, Enrichment of the
thymoquinone content in volatile oil from
Satureja montana using supercritical uid
extraction. J. Sep. Sci., 32, 328334 (2009).
F.V.M. Silva, A. Martins, J. Salta, N.R. Neng, J.M.F.
Nogueira, D. Mira, N. Gaspar, J. Justino,
C. Grosso, J.S. Urieta, A.M.S. Palavra and
A.P. Rauter, Phytochemical profile and
anticholinesterase and antimicrobial activities
of supercritical versus conventional extracts
of Satureja montana. J. Agric. Food Chem.,
57, 1155711563 (2009).
D. Vidic, M. Maksimovic, S. Cavar and M.E.
Solic, Comparison of essential oil proles of
Satureja montana L. and endemic Satureja
visianii Silic. J. Essent. Oil Bear. Plants, 12,
273281 (2009).
P. Barbosa, A.S. Lima, P. Viera, L.S. Dias, M.T.
Tinoco, J.G. Barbosa, L.G. Pedro, A.C.
Figueiredo and M. Mota, Nematicidal
activity of essential oils and volatiles derived
from Portuguese aromatic flora against
the pinewood nematode Bursaphelenchus
xylophilus. J. Nematology, 42, 816 (2010).
C. Grosso, J.A. Coelho, J.S. Urieta, A.M.F. Palavra
and J.G. Barroso, Herbicidal activity of
volatiles from coriander, winter savory,
cotton lavender and thyme isolated by
hydrodistillation and supercritical fluid
extraction. J. Agric. Food Chem., 58,
1100711013 (2010).
B.M. Lawrence, Savory oil. In: Progress in Essential
Oils. Perfum. Flav., 3(6), 5758 (1979); 6(4),
7677 (1981); 13(1), 4658 (1988); 17(1),
5254 (1992); 21(6), 5557 (1996); 28(6),
5863 (2003).
77
CHINA EGYPT
HAITI
Worldwide Sources
INDIA
PF1409_WWS_fcx.indd 77 8/6/14 2:09 PM
78 Worldwide Sources Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
THE FLAVOR & FRAGRANCE OUTSOURCE
From analysis to finished sample
Out-source your Flavor/Fragrance matching, Creative Flavor
or QA projects**GC/MS Analysis of Flavor/Foods/Fragrance
www.theflavorandfragranceoutsource.com
Sherri Walker 614-563-1051 swalke26@columbus.rr.com
UNITED KINGDOM
UNITED STATES
UNITED STATES
USA supplier of natural avor
and fragrance ingredients

Natural avoring substances
Natural Extracts and Isolates
Essential oils and Oleoresins
Vanilla extracts
10 Taft Road, Totowa, NJ 07512
Tel: 973-339-6242 Fax: 973-256-4105
www.adv-bio.com
Fragrance and Essential oil
GC-MS Analysis
SPECTRIX LABS, INC.
Tel: 831-427-9336
Email: larry@spectrixlab.com
www. spectrixlab.com
PF1409_WWS_fcx.indd 78 8/6/14 2:09 PM
79
Advertiser Web site Page
Advanced Biotech www.adv-bio.com 23
Alluredbooks www.Alluredbooks.com 79
Axxence Aromatic GmbH www.axxence.com 49
Bedoukian Research, Inc. www.bedoukian.com 63
Berj, Inc. www.berjeinc.com 15
Cedar Oil Works LLC www.cedaroilworks.com 57
Dhler Group www.doehler.com 71
drom fragrances international www.drom.com 69
DRT www.drt-france.com 76
Ernesto Ventos SA www.ventos.com 4041
Excellentia International www.excellentiaint.com 37
Firmenich, Inc. www.rmenich.com 39
Fleurchem, Inc. www.eurchem.com 31
Fricke Abfulltechnik GmbH & Co. www.fricke-dos.com 53
Galen-N www.galen-n.com 25
Global Essence, Inc. www.globalessence.com 17
Gulcicek Kimya www.gulcicek.com 5
Gusmer Enterprises, Specialty Products www.gusmerenterprises.com 36
Hangzhou Grascent Co., Ltd. www.grascent.com 55
I.P. Callison & Sons www.ipcallison.com 57
Indesso Aroma, PT www.indesso.com 43
Indukern www.indukern-fngredients.com 2829
International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. www.iff.com 21
Kunshan Monza Import & export Co. Ltd. www.ksmonza.com 67
Les Aromes du Maroc www.aromes.ma 59
Mane USA www.mane.com 7
Mitsubishi Gas Chemical America, Inc. www.aromaticchemicals.com 24
NAFFS www.naffs.org 75
Natural Advantage www.natural-advantage.net 11
Norex Flavours Pvt. Ltd. www.menthol-mint.com 27
Penta Manufacturing Co. www.pentamfg.com Cover 4
PT Van Aroma www.vanaroma.com 64
Renessenz www.renessenz.com 3
Robertet SA www.robertet.com 45
Sigma Aldrich Flavors & Fragrances www.sigma-aldrich.com/avors-fragrances Cover 2
SAF-ISIS USA www.sasis.com 33
Som Extracts Limited www.somextracts.com 24
Sonarome Pvt. Ltd. www.sonarome.com 61
Symrise www.symrise.com 1
Takasago Intl Corp. www.takasago.com 51
Ultra International Ltd. www.ultrainternational.com 35
Vigon International, Inc. www.vigoninternational.com Cover 3
Xiamen Bestally Biotechnology Co., Ltd. www.bestally.com.cn 65
Ad Index
PF1409_Ad Index_fcx.indd 79 8/6/14 3:13 PM
80 The Last Word Vol. 39 September 2014 | Perfumer & Flavorist www.PerfumerFlavorist.com
This conversation brought to you by:
We make it happen . . . together.
Honoring Contributions to Perfumer
Societies & Perfumery
T
he 2014 World Perfumery Congress (WPC) celebrated
perfumery and the perfumers, in addition to hosting
the rst meeting of global perfumery societies, which
included the Socit Franaise des Parfumeurs (SFP), Deutsche
Gesellschaft der Parfmeure in der SEPAWA (DGP), British
Society of Perfumers (BSP) and American Society of Perfumers
(ASP).
On the closing day of the conference, the ASP and SFP
presented their awards, which recognized achievements in
fragrance creation and devotion to service.
First, Sylvie Jourdet (president of the SFP; Crassence),
Maurice Roucel (SFP; Symrise), and Patrick de Vilmorin (SFP;
Firmenich) introduced the winner of the Prix International du
Parfumeur Crateur 2014. The award honors perfumers 35
years old and younger, who are encouraged to freely express
their creativity.
Designed by Chanel, the trophy symbolized the dedication
and perseverance required to create great fragrances, Vilmorin
noted, as well as the complexity, richness and uniqueness of
fragrance.
This years winner was Alice Lavenat, junior perfumer
with Jean Niel. Her fragrance was selected following two jury
reviews, one of which was technical, comprising perfumers and
evaluators, and a second, which evaluated the scent submissions
on an artistic level from the point of view of the customer.
All scents were built around bourgeons de cassis (blackcurrant
buds) absolute.
Next, Chris Diienno (president of ASP; drom) presented
the 2014 William Lambert Award to Jim Fassold (nancial
administrator of ASP; Robertet). Diienno called Fassold a man
you can count on.
Diienno continued, He can keep a condence, and can nd
common ground with anyone. In Jims mind, difcult personali-
ties are just challenges to be won over. He is generous with his
time and knowledge and always has an open door to a colleague
who needs nancial advice or otherwise.
Finally, in honor of its 50th anniversary, the BSP launched
British PerfumeryA Fragrant History (www.bsp.org.uk/bsp-
book-2/) and presented it at the WPC. The book is a celebration
of British perfumery past and present, inviting readers to share
personal stories and experiences of the many perfumers who,
over the years, have made British perfumery as full of creativity
and talent as it is today.
From left: Sylvie Jourdet (president of the SFP; Crassence); Maurice Roucel
(SFP; Symrise); Prix International du Parfumeur Crateur 2014 winner, Alice
Lavenat (Jean Niel); and Patrick de Vilmorin (SFP; Firmenich).
From left: Jim Fassold (ASP; Robertet), recipient of the William Lambert Award,
and Chris Diienno (ASP president; drom).
PF1409_Last Word_fcx.indd 80 8/6/14 2:12 PM
Untitled-4 1 8/6/14 2:29 PM
50 Okner Parkway, Livingston, New Jersey 07039-1604 Phone: (973) 740-2300 Fax: (973) 740-1839
E-Mail: sales@pentamfg.com Web: www.pentamfg.com
Developing Better Products
through Natural Chemistry
Penta Manufacturing Company is Family Owned and Operated for Over 30 Years.
For a complete list of all our natural, natural identical & synthetic ingredients
visit us at our web: www.pentamfg.com
Here is a partial listing of our Naturally derived avor & fragrance ingredients.
All items are Food Grade Kosher & Organic Compliant.
A Division of Penta International Corporation
Penta Manufacturing Company
Acetal
Acetic Acid
Acetol
Acetone
Acetyl Butyryl
Allyl Heptoate
Acetophenone
Alpha-Damascone
Beta-Damascone
3,4-Dimethyl-1,2-
Cyclopentadione
Dimethyl Disulde
Cis-Jasmone
Mesityl Oxide
Methyl Alcohol
Myrcene
Delta-Nonalactone
CIS-6-NONENAL
CIS-6-NONENOL
4-Nonanone
Cis-6-Nonenal
3-Nonen-2-One
2,4-Octadienal
3-Octanol
Trans-2-Octenal
2-Octen-4-One
3-Octyl Acetate
Octyl Butyrate
Oleic Acid
Piperine
Prenyl Acetate
Prenyl Mercaptan
L-Proline
Propionaldehyde
Propionic Acid
2-Propionyl
Thiophene
Propyl Acetate
Propyl Alcohol
Propyl Butyrate
Propyl Caproate
Propyl Caprylate
Propyl Disulde
Propylene Glycol
Propyl Isobutyrate
Propyl Mercaptan
Propyl-
2-MethylButyrate
Propyl
ThioAcetate
D-Pulegone
Pyrazine
Ethanethiol
2-Pyridine
Methanethiol
Quinine
Rhodinol
D-Ribose
Rum Ether
Safranal
Sclareolide
Skatole
Stearic Acid
Styrallyl Acetate
Styrallyl Alcohol
Styrallyl
Isobutyrate
Succinic Acid
Gamma-
Terpinene
Terpinyl Acetate
Delta-
Tetradecalactone
5,6,7,8-Tetrahy-
droquinoxaline
2,3,5,6-Tetramethyl
Pyrazine
Theaspirane
Theobromine
2,2-
(Thiodimethylene)
Difuran
Thiogeraniol
Thiophenol
Thymol Crystals
Delta-
Tridecalactone
Triethyl Citrate
2,4,6-Triisobutyl-
5,6-dihydro-4h-
1,3,5-dithiazine
Trimethylamine
2,6,6-
Trimethylcyclohex-
2-ene-1,4-dione
2,3,5-Trimethyl
Pyrazine
2,4,5-Trimethyl
Thiazole
Trithioacetone
Turpentine
L-Tyrosine
2,4-Undecadienal
Delta-
Undecalactone
Trans-2-
Undecenal
Undecylenic Acid
Valencene
Gamma-
Valerolactone
Valeraldehyde
Valeric Acid
Valspice
Vanillin
Vanillin Acetate
Vanillin
Isobutyrate
4-Vinyl Guaiacol
Vitamin E
Wintergreen Oil
Xylitol
D-Xylose
Zingerone
PF1409_Penta.indd 1 7/21/14 3:35 PM

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is a truly inspiring ingredient made

Untitled-1 1 7/25/14 9:27 AM

incorrect identication based on GC elution order

doubtful correct identication

does not occur naturally

doubtful correct identication

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