Triumph Transmission Conversions

Five speed transmission assembly.

 I’ll assume many of you who bought this
publication did so for the purpose of gaining
more knowledge/info about what it takes to
convert 4-speed Triumph twins to 5-speed
units as this is a current dream of many. While
certainly feasible and covered here, l feel
compelled to editorialize a bit and ask that you
think twice before doing so. Quite frankly, aside
from bragging rights and a modest gain in
acceleration due to a closer ratio between five
as opposed to four gears, you really don’t gain
much, except potential headaches. It’s been Four speed gear change quadrant at left,
my experience that 5- speed units, even the five speed with shoulder at right. Make
better later models, are far more prone to sure your outer cover has the right one!
mechanical failure and shifting glitches.
Additionally, used five-speed transmissions
are commanding top dollar, frequently three
to four times and more compared to the same
serviceable transmission of the four gear
variety. Consequently, when facing an ailing
5-speed of late, I’ve tended to replace it with
four and have yet to regret the decision.
Another reason to go with a four speed
unit concerns chopper builders who plan to
go with forward controls. I’ve found it a lot
easier to use four speeds for this set up owing
to the less than precise shifting often the result
of an aftermarket or homemade set of forward
controls. I’m not saying that a five- speed can’t Five speed operating quadrant at left, four
be made to work with this setup, just that it’s speed on right
been my experience it’s a lot easier to do with
a wider shifting four- speed.
With that out of the way, let’s get down to
the conversion. First of all, the reason this is
practical is that the five speed box was
engineered to fit and work inside the original
four-speed case, so machining the case isn’t
necessary. You do however need an
assortment of parts, and it is highly advisable
to get them all from the same machine if
possible. Otherwise, you might have
nightmares, as I did, getting the darn thing to
work right at all.
A good example of the subtle differences that Four speed camplate at left, five speed,
can make for huge operating problems is right. Note longer shaft on 4-speed plate.
 except of course for those with left shifting
boxes. You don’t need a whole new cover if
you have the wrong quadrant, however, just
drive out the shift shaft and replace the
quadrant.
Speaking of left shift models, conversion to
right is dirt simple. All you need to do is to
strip the primary side and then remove the long
rod running across the engine and then
change the inner and outer shifting cover with
ones from a right shift bike. Make sure,
however, you have the correct gear change
quadrant in the inner cover. All that’s left is to
plug the hole running through the case. Lots
Five speed clutch door cover at left,
of choices here, but a real simple one for the
larger hole cover for four speed, right.
primary side is an automotive expanding
freeze plug. Just pop it in the hole left by the
rod taken out and tighten and you’re good to
go. I generally plug off the other end with a
blob of silicone sealer. Depending on the kind
of plug used, you may have to grind a bit on
the nut and bolt of the freeze plug for clearance
for the primary chain. Top this off with a new
primary cover without a shift hole, just about
any unit 650 or early 750 primary cover will
work, and that’s it. Now you can use later
model engines with earlier frames!
Back to 4-5 speed differences one must be
Five speed high gear main bearing at
aware of, we have the difference in top gear.
left, four speed, right.
See the picture for a clear illustration of the
differences. The four speed will require a larger
shown in the first picture, which on my first hole clutch door and a different seal. Just
conversion resulted in a six month headache about any old unit construction four-speed
and many unsuccessful attempts to correct. door will fit perfectly The different gear
Note the shoulder on the right gear change diameter also necessitates a different final
quadrant pictured that engages the operating drive sprocket and attachment nut. Unless you
quadrant which in turn moves the camplate to have a final drive sprocket that’s almost
shift the forks and gears. This shoulder limits perfect, this is one part that’s smart to buy new
the travel of the operating quadrant and will as the sprockets for both four and five speed
not work on four speed transmissions. What models aren’t expensive and are usually very
happens is you can only get three gears no worn used due to the amount of work it takes
matter which way you set it up. I missed the to change them. See pictures for a clear shot
difference on my first attempt because this part of a good one next to pure junk. Once the teeth
is almost completely hidden by a plate on the take on a hook shape they’re garbage and eat
inside of the outer transmission cover. Aside good chain for breakfast.
from this, I haven’t seen any difference The same advice to replace and buy new
between later unit 4 and 5 speed covers, goes for needle bearings, and these are the
same for both four and five speed units in the
case and inner transmission cover. The high
gear takes a different pair and must be
replaced also. It’s not at all uncommon for high
gear needle bearings to fail, and if you have a
five speed transmission that refuses to go into
fifth, put this failure at the top of your list of
suspects. Consequently it’s highly advisable
to replace all needle bearings with new
anytime you break open a box.
A corresponding check to make on the four
speed top gear is the bushing sticking out from
the gear which runs on the clutch door seal
and together keeps the oil from leaking out of
the transmission. Lots of times you’ll find a Check movement of gear change quadrant
groove in this bushing from wear, and you’ll and also condition of teeth.
have to replace it or the box will throw oil all
over the place.
With respect to all bearings and bushings,
carefully inspect each component part for wear
on the bushings and driving dogs. Generally,
the bushes are in fairly good shape even after
extensive miles, but the dogs are often another
question entirely. It doesn’t take a whole lot of
wear on the dogs to produce a gear jumping
problem, so if you have any doubts, replace
the gear with worn dogs. Of course, chipped
gears and cracked shafts must never be used
either. Also, check the main shaft threads on
each side. Damage here can make it
impossible to properly tighten and lead to
major headaches that will require a complete Badly worn driving dogs.
tear down to remedy.
Another check must be made on the shifting
forks. Again, it doesn’t take much wear on
these to produce sloppy shifting and other
problems, like for instance locking up the entire
transmission, entirely possible as bad shift
forks can create a situation where two gears
engage at the same time! Inspect both the
parts running along the gears and the raised
nubs that ride in the camplate. And easy flaw
and common flaw to pick up is damage to the
circularr part that rides in the camplate. On
four speeds this is a two part piece and lots of Check shift forks for wear and dam-
times the outer part falls off. Five speed forks age.
feature a one pice cast as a part of the fork,

Check threads on both sides of main
shaft.
Badly worn drive sprocket, left, new on
right.
Badly worn and damaged four speed camplate
at left, good used on right. Note notch below
hole on bottom on bad plate as this is where
you must position the plate on the plunger
prior to asembly. If you have a plate like the
one on the left with no notch, be sure to
position the plate as closely as possible to
where the mark would be pointing directly
down.
Blown needle bearing is shown on gear
at left below. This is common, and why
you should always replace with new
so I’m guessing Triumph learned from this
problem and switched design.
A good four or five speed camplate must
also be used, and take a very close look at it if
you found either bad main bearings in the box
of faulty shifting forks. Camplates are often
worn and damaged, and there are several
varieties for both four and five speed
transmissions which most tech books don’t
bother to tell you about and can really drive
you nuts.
For example, you may, as I have a number
of times, encounter a four speed camplate that
does not have a notch for indexing the gears,
and will go blind looking for one because lots
of tech book tells you to look for it. Don’t fret,
the one without the notch will work fine, but
you’ll have to approximate the correct position
for the unnotched camplate as best you can.
There are also different five speed camplates
as well. Earlier ones required removal of high
gear in order to remove the camplate, later
ones can be removed with top gear in place,
meaning you can swap it without tearing down
the primary side of the motor. This is a great
service advantage, so if you have to pop for a
new 5-speed cam plate, get the later model.
The camplates for both four and five speed
transmissions slide into the same hole, but if
you are converting a five speed to four, you
will have to grind off some of the shaft on the
four-speed plate as it’s longer and will cause
the plate to protrude too far out of the case.
Shortening this shaft is very easy to do with a
bench grinder. Keep grinding and testing until
the inner gear on the camplate sits flush with
the case hole as did the five speed camplate.
The switch from four to five requires no
modification as the shorter shaft has no affect
on operation.
Worn camplates are pretty obvious up
against a new one, but even minor dings in
the surface of the running tracks for the shift
forks can play hell with operation. Take a look Bearing drifts in brass and aluminum.
at the bad one shown in this booklet, and if
you see this kind of damage (looking like
repeated indentations) it’s highly likely the
main bearings are shot and the whole unit was
jumping around. Be very carefull shopping for
used boxes if you see this too as much of the
transmission may have suffered from all the
shake, rattle and roll. Conversely, a nice clean,
unworn camplate is a good clue the rest of
the box may be perfectly useable.
Both the four and five speed use the samer
bearing on in the shift cover, but a completely
different one for the main shaft due to the
difference in diameter of high gear. To change Note grove cut for right depth for
the bearing, first remove the seal. This is also installing needle bearings.
different and must also match the transmission
used. Once the seal is removed use a snap
ring pliers to remove the ring holding the
bearing in place. Now heat the area around
the case and drive the bearing out with an
appropriate drift from the inside of the case.
Immediately, while the case is still hot, drive
in the new bearing from the other side, but be
careful as it sits against a relatively thin piece
of the case. Pound too hard or too far and
you’ll break this seating surface. Once the
case cools, replace the snap ring. Of course,
be sure the new or used bearing has been
checked for wear. Generally, though, these live
very long lives and are often reusable for many
miles and years. Left shift 750 primary side with shifting rod
The same process goes for the needle removed.
bearings in terms of heating and drifting, but

Bend down lock tab before removing
Use an impact wrench to quickly remove
mainshaft nut.
Use a gear puller to remove front
sprocket.
use new bearings regardless. While you can
jury rig a lot of things, such as sockets and an
extension to use as bearing drifts, it’s much
easier and almost foolproof to use a custom
drift. This is especially true for replacing the
needle bearings on the five speed high gear
and also the inner case needle bearing. These
are very easy to damage without the right
tools. The special drift dimensions are in the
rear of this publication. Bring this to your local
machinist and he can turn them out in either
aluminum or brass or borrow drifts from
someone.
With everything inspected and all bearings
installed, it’s time to build your box if you are
doing a five speed. For these, the gears are
assembled individually on the respective
shafts, starting first with the main shaft top gear
and then working outward. The exact
sequence is given in the back of this booklet
and is also accurate in most shop manuals.
For four speeds, you must insert the whole
dang thing at once into the transmission case,
and this can be annoying as hell. Even if you
use grease to hold the shift forks, they still have
a tendency to move and cause problems. I’ve
had good luck securing the forks with small
rubber bands so they stay in place and then
break them off and fish them out once the
transmission is in place. Either way, you just
have to keep at it until it finally goes in where
it ought to. Again, the procedure is at the end
of this booklet.
Make sure not to forget the small snap ring
holding the lay shaft first gear right behind the
removable driving dog for first. If you got your
five speed second hand you might not have
one, they’re often lost, and will need to get
one before completing the job.
OK, now install the inner cover. Hang on to
the operating quadrant and keep it in correct
position until the inner teeth engage and hold
it in place. A special jig is available for
positioning the five speed quadrant but isn’t
really necessary.
Be advised, however, that correct positioning
won’t always assure correct indexing. The first
time I built a five speed I called parts/bike
dealers all over the place trying to figure out
what my problem was, since I followed shop
manual procedures to the letter and even used
the factory indexing tool. One mechanic said
simply, “Sometimes it just don’t go by the
book. Try different positions until it shifts right.”
Good advice. Generally, though, the correct
position of the operating quadrant will bring
correct indexing.
But you’ll need to check. To do so you must
assemble inner cover and properly torque the Remove primary chain and clutch hub
nut holding the main shaft and then mount the once sprocket is free.
outer cover too. Don’t be lazy and just try to
attach the nut holding the shaft loosely,
because there is often a radical difference in
operation when the nut is correctly torqued.
Here’s where an impact wrench comes in real
handy. Don’t ever use it to tighten the nut, only
to quickly remove it. Also assemble the final
drive sprocket and run the drive chain back to
the rear sprocket. Why? Ever notice how much
more difficult it is to find neutral, or any gear
for that matter, with the bike standing still?
That’s because the transmission is designed
to work best when it’s on the go.
Connsequently, you need someone to keep
the rear wheel spinnning to make a really good Remove kick start gear, and spring.
check for correct shifting. With your partner
spinning the wheel go up and down through
the gears many times. You don’t need the
clutch to do this and it’s actually a lot easier to
check this way. If you wait to do this with the
primary back together, someone else will have
to hold in the clutch, as only superman could
fight the engine compression by spinning the
wheel fast enough for a good check. Shifting
should be sure and positive and free of false
neutrals. If not, it’s time to pull off the covers
and see what’s wrong. Lots of times, it’s just
one notch off on the drive quadrant. Whatever
you do, don’t con yourself into believing it will
shift better when it’s actually running. It won’t,
A seal puller makes it easy to remove
and you’ll have a lot more work to do to get
bearing seal but a screw driver will
back and reindex the gears.
work.
After this test, it’s all downhill. Build your
clutch and check the primary chain tension
 before installing the primary cover. Now is a great
time to do any service here as well. It’s generally
very prudent to go with a new primary chain and
carefully check all other components. A bad clutch
plate often makes it seem that the transmission is
at fault, so be sure your clutch is good and that
the cover lifts evenly all around the clutch plates.
After all the time it took to get this apart and back
together, it’s extremely wise to completely overhaul
all suspect parts and make careful adjustments.
Then, you can ride that sucker for years without
any problems at all.
Four Speed Assembly
1. Install all bearings as detailed in five speed
section.
2. Install spacer bushing in case as detailed in
Remove snap ring with special pliers. five speed section
3. Install camplate and plunger with plate
positioned on the plunger on the notch be-
tween second and third gear. If no notch exists
as with leaf spring models, position as close as
possible to where the notch would be halfway
between second and third gear on the raised
section of the camplate. The plate has two
pointed sides when serve to stop it beyond
first and fourth gear. These points are horizon-
tal when properly positioned with one ear
pointed to the inside of the case, the other on
the outer end. (See photo for detail)
4. Assemble and lubricate the entire transmis-
Heat case before drifting bearings in or
sion as shown in photo and also on exploded
out.
diagram on last page.
5. Place shift forks in correct position holding
them with grease. Shift fork with the small
radius goes on the main shaft in the gear slot
provided. Place the other shift fork on lay
shaft gear.
6. Slide entire assembly into transmission case
as a complete unit being sure that the forks
engage with the camplate. This is a royal pain
butt you will get it eventually. Once inserted,
slide shift rod through forks and into case
recess. Use something like a welding rod to
alight the fork holes if necessary.
Position drift carefully before removing 7. Index shift quadrant so that the middle of
bearing. Be very careful installing new the second tooth from the top is exactly in line
bearing as it’s very easy to damage case. with the hole for the foot shift shaft.
9. Continue as with 5-speed models.
5-Speed Assembly

1. Grease lay shaft thrust washer and place it

over inner needle bearing. Be sure it engages
with the locating pin and that the oil groves
face outward.
2. Push fifth gear into case. Be sure beforehand
that you’ve replaced both needle bearings and
installed a new seal.
3. Insert cam plate and loosely install plunger.
Keeping the tension off the plunger spring a bit
makes it much easier to turn the camplate later.
Once you have it right, tighten the plunger. If
you don’t have a plunger, you’ve got a leaf
spring model. Make sure to replace this with a
Drift out needle bearing in case, cover
new unit. Also, you will have to index by eye,
and high gear.
a little trickier but quite possible.
4. Set the camplate in the neutral position,
second notch.
5. Lubricate needle roller bearnings in fifth
gear and inside the cases.
6. Place mainshaft with fourth gear and its shift
fork. Hold fork in place with grease. Correct
fork can be recognized by it having a large
engaging pin and no cutaway.
7. Replace layshaft assembly having fourth and
fifth gears. Turn the shaft so that the gear teeth
Installing new high gear needle bushing.
engage with mainshaft gears.
8. Slide layshaft third gear with its fork in
place. This fork has a large engaging pin and
does have a cutaway.
9. Slide mainshaft third gear and engage it with
the layshaft third gear.
10. Install layshaft second gear after lubricat-
ing its bushing.
11. Install combined first and second gear on
mainshaft.
12. Replace layshaft first gear with its selector
fork. Ths remaining fork has the small engag-
ing pin. If you have an early five speed a good
upgrade is to use the later first gear and beafier
driving dog. Now insert selector rod through Use special drift to correctly seat needle bear-
the holes provided in the shift forks. You may ing in case. Use sealer on outer case over bearing
to prevent leaks.

Installing new needle bearing with special
drift.
Install camplate first.
Install fifth gear next. Be sure
you’ve replaced theouter seal
and main shaft bearing clip.
have to reposition the the shift forks a bit so that
the rod goes all the way through the three forks
and into to hole cut into the case. A small
diamater welding rod makes a good alingment
and positioning tool to line up the forks just prior
to installing rod. After installing rod, make sure
all forks properly engage the camplate and that
the camplate turns without binding.
13. Replace circlip holding first gear with new
clip.
14. Slide driving dog over layshaft.
15. Turn camplate cover from neutral to first
gear. Driving dog should now engage layshaft
first.
16. Tighten plunger if so equipped.
17. Install second layshaft thrust washer on inner
case. Oil gooves face inward, towards the gears.
18. Lubricate all bearings in cover.
19. Slide the inner cover over thee transmission
shaft while holding operating quadrant. Just
before it engages the camplate gear (about 1/4
inch before cover meets the case), be sure that
quadrant is positioned so that the top edge of the
second tooth on the quadrant is on line with a
center line (use a ruler so that you can see this) if
such a line was drawn through the center of the
footchange spindle housing.
20. Push cover so that it engages camplate.
Install fasteners on inner cover.
21. While the shop manuals say you do not have
to tighten the nut holding the main shaft, I’ve
found it’s best to correctly tighten this as well
before assemling the outer cover and checking
for indexing as I’ve had transmissions that
seemed to work OK with this loose, but behaved
differently when tightened. Your option.
22. Assemble primary side but leave out clutch
plates for now.
23. Attach rear chain to wheel.
24. While assistant turns wheel up and down
shift many times to check for proper engage-
ment.
25. Assemble clutch, adjust, and then install
primary cover.
26. Fill transmission with oil and also primary
side.
 Insert main and lay shaft with shift fork
Use grease to hold fork in place.

Install new snap ring on layshaft first

Check that shift rod goes though. gear.

Four speed is installed in one whole unit Be sure to correctly index quadrant.
Parts List 5 Speed Parts List 4 Speed
(Note: This list is for a 1973 750 Transmis-
(Note this list is for a 1971 4-speed. All other
sion, a better one than the 71-72 650 model,
unit transmissions will work too. This was a leaf
which will work, but was prone to failure,
spring model, so you might want to use a differ-
especially first gear and it’s respective driving
ent camplate, the one with the indexing notch,
dog. It was made much stronger for this and
from an earlier transmission if your bike has a
later 5-speeds. Transmission itself, respective
plunger assembly now. It is also possible to drill
shift forks and parts common to both are not
and tap a hole for a plunger if your leaf spring
listed as it is assumed you purchased these
case has a raised portion as many did. This is
with your transmission or have already.)
easy to do and recommended. Otherwise, you’ll
have to use a leaf spring and special cover plate
1. Needle bearings (2) #57-1614
as listed below)
2. Operating Quadrant # 57-4363
3. High gear nut #57-4396
1. Camplate #T4055
4. Lock washer for above #57-4395
2. Operating quadrant #T397
5. Cover plate #70-3789
3. Inner cover #T4293
6. Seal for above #60-3500
4. 19 Tooth sprocket #T1918
7. Needle bearings for top gear (2)#60-3511
5. High gear bearing #D3556
8. Oil seal, high gear # 60-3500
6. High gear nut #T440
9. Gear change quadrant #57-0437
7. Gear change quadrant (Note: 71 parts book
10. High gear bearing (PN # lists gear with
lists this as #T408/9 Last number may refer to
bearing and associated parts as #57-4628, but
five speed as both were available in ‘71. Check
you only need the bearing if it didn’t come
with parts supplier and be sure you get the one
with your transmission. This can be ordered
for a 4-speed as five speed will not work.)
separately. Triumph recommended that both
8. Clutch door #E7037
gear and bearing be replaced as a matched set,
9. Seal for above #E7565 (see note below and
but many have had excellent results just using
also next page for additional information)
either a new gear or bearing, whichever was
Parts for leaf spring
needed.
1. Leaf spring support #T4288
11, Camplate #57-6624
2. Leaf spring top plate#T4290
13. Inner cover #57-4795 (Note: While I’ve
3. Leaf spring #T4288
always swapped covers I suspect that either
4. Tab washer #T4291
four or five speed conversion will work with
5. Screws (2) #F4771
either inner cover so long as the operating
quadrant is switched and perhaps also the gear Special Note
change bush #57-0412 also. It’s a blind bush Thanks to information provided by Bob
on right shift transmissions. To swap quad- Wenzinger, I’ve included pictures he took of the
two different top gears for Triumph 4 speeds.
rant, just pull out cotter pins and remove
You need to match your seal to the gear shown.
spindle. Pull out quadrant and replace with Later model is improved and the seal no longer
new one. Use new cotter pins when assem- runs on the bushing, a problem mentioned
bling. Also, leaf spring covers can be used on earlier in this text. Bob also recommended
later and earlier models simply by removing video by Hughie Hancox that provides a much
the leaf spring.) easier way for installing 4-speed transmissions.
14. 20 tooth drive sprocket #57-4533
Early 4-speed top gear is shown at left in both
photos. Match your clutch door seal to the gear
shown when ordering.
Late 4-Speed Transmission