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Modernisation of Handlooms for Silk Saree Weaving

By: R.G. Panneerselvam & L. Rathakrishnan

Modernisation of Handlooms for Silk Saree Weaving: A Techno-Economic
Analysis

Research is being carried out in all spheres of mechanism to reduce the human drudgery
by modernizing the mechanism and adopting the new technology time to time. In
weaving industry, the technological modernisation has started from loin loom - throw
shuttle weaving, to shuttle less weaving and multiphase weaving technology. In fact,
throw shuttle weaving loom is the true handloom. The modernisation of the handloom
had started, the day when the invention of fly shuttle started. During the past two
decades, in many silk hand loom clusters, the pit looms used for silk saree weaving have
been totally modernized with many technical developments by dispensing the old
techniques used in preparatory, jacquard weaving and designing processes. The techno-
economics of modernisation of handlooms for silk saree weaving is studied by collecting
the technical and economical details of different handloom varieties woven in four
villages in Tamil Nadu, namely Thiruvalam (near Vellore), Thirumalpur (near
Kancheepuram), Athimalaipattu (near Arni) and Onnupuram (near Arni). The different
outcome of the study is compared to know the present social status of the weavers.

The Era of Modernisation

The main objective of the modernisation of hand loom weaving and its related
processes, ultimately, is to increase the earnings of the weaver, which is achieved by
deriving two advantages namely 1) value addition to the products and 2) increasing the
productivity. The value added niche products, produced by using modernized
technology could be sold at high cost, which in turn fetches considerable earnings to the
skilled weavers who operate the modernized hand loom. Weaving elaborate designed
attractive silk sarees using multiple jacquards instead of dobby is one of the examples
for this. In other way, the modernized handloom technology makes the process of
weaving mechanism more ergonomics with reduced drudgery. The operational comfort
derived for the hands and legs of the weaver, from the modernisation, reduces the
tiredness of the weaver and minimizes the stoppages of the loom for long time and
thereby increases his productivity. Using pneumatic compressor for operating the
jacquard in place of directly operating it by leg is one of the examples for this.

Strength of the handlooms stays with weaving intricate silk sarees having more weft way
intricacy for which highest skill of the weavers and complete modernisation of hand
looms with multiple jacquard are required. Use of multiple jacquards, operated by
motor or compressor with high weaving skill of the weaver, produces the saree with
more ornamentation and increase the value of the saree (cost price). Higher the cost
price of the saree, higher is the earnings of the weaver but lesser is the length of cloth to
weave every day.

Table 1 gives the list of modernised mechanism and set up being used against the
mechanism being dispensed with, for weaving silk saree in Thiruillaipur,
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Athimalaipattu, Onnupuram villages. The list also shows the advantages derived from
the modernisation namely 1) value addition of the products and 2) increased
productivity. The use of modern machines and mechanisms increase the productivity or
add value to the products and sometimes it fetches both the advantages. Very
particularly, the Computer Aided Graph Designing and Computer Aided Card Punching
bring both the advantages.

Table 1: List of Modernised Machines and Mechanisms Used in Silk Saree
Weaving
Sr.
Old Machines and
Mechanism being Dispensed
Modernised Machines and Mechanism being
Used.
Advantage
1.
Hand operated Pirn, Dubba and
Bobbin winding Charka
Power operated Single spindle and multi
spindle winding machines
Increased productivity
2.
Hand operated Street Beaming
for short length of warp
Power operated in-house Beaming machine for long
length of warp.
Increased productivity
3. Wooden frames of Pit loom. Angle iron frames of Pit loom.
Increased productivity
& Value addition
4.
Rope coil let-off motion with
poker rod take-up.
Worm wheel let-off with worm wheel take up Increased productivity
5.
Single jacquard with minimum
hooks capacity (120 hooks)
Multiple jacquard with increased hook capacity (2
to 4 numbers of 240 hooks = 480 hooks to 960
hooks)
Increased productivity
& Value addition
6.
Jacquard operated by lifting
lever and treadle.
Jacquard operated by pneumatic pressure using
compressor or by motor operated cam and pedal.
Increased productivity
7.
Double pick Pet weaving using
single jacquard with complicate
single treadling
Single pick Pet weaving using double jacquard with
easy double treadling
Increased productivity
8. Manual graph designing Computer Aided Graph Designing
Increased productivity
& Value addition
9.
Manual and mechanical card
punching
Computer Aided card punching.
Increased productivity
& Value addition

Table 2 gives the details of productivity and earnings of the weavers weaving different
varieties of Lungies, Plain Cotton Sarees and Silk Sarees in the selected four villages.
The data of average number of pieces woven in a month (25 working days), wages fixed
per piece for weaving Lungi and Saree and its cost price are collected. The monthly
earnings of the weavers, weaving these varieties are calculated. The average length
woven per day is also calculated from the total length of cloth woven in meters in one
month. The skill of the weaver is graded by 10 point grading. Grade 10 denotes the
highest skill of the weaver required for weaving silk sarees. The highest skill -10, as on
date, means the capability to operate the latest modernised technology of combining
four numbers of 24.0 hooks jacquards for decorating the saree completely in body,
border and pallau using double colour weft. Grade 2 denotes the minimum skill of the
weaver required for weaving simple plain coarser varieties of lungi and simple cotton
sarees. Grade 1 denotes the starting skill of the trainers in weaving. The grade of the skill
of the weaver required for weaving is also indicated against each variety in the Table.

The weavers are divided in four age groups. The weavers aged between 21 to 35 years are
taken as Group - A. Group B denotes the weavers aged between 36 to 45 years, Group C
between 46 to 55 years and Group - D between 56 to 65 years. The age groups, who can
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practice the required skills and take up the weaving of particular variety, are also
indicated in the table. The age group details for male and female are shown separately.
For the same varieties indicated in Table 2, the percentage of looms / weavers and the
age group of weavers who are actually engaged in weaving these varieties are collected
and presented in Table 3.

The Techno Economic Analysis of Modernisation

Following technical and economical points are analyzed from the figures given in the
tables and the facts observed in the villages.

Forty years back, Onnupuram, Athimalaipattu, Thiruvalam and Thirumalpur villages
were 100 percent lungi weaving centers. In the years 1980 to 1990, the weavers of
Onnupuram and Athimalaipattu had started weaving cotton Madras Handkerchief using
120 hooks jacquard and in the next 10 years they had mastered and got eight points
grade skill in silk weaving with 120 and 240 hooks jacquard. In the past 10 years they
become conversant with all the latest technology in silk saree weaving. The Onnupuram
weavers are now with 10 point grade skill, earning upto Rs. 21,600 per month. The
weavers of Athimalaipattu follow with 9 point grade ski II earning upto Rs. 18,400 per
month.

In Onnupuram and Athimalaipattu villages, the school educated youth of age group A,
who are not going for higher studies, without having any second thought to go for other
profession, start learning the weaving process from their elders, at the age of 20 to 21 to
weave Lungies. They master the silk weaving at 23 to 25 and become conversant with all
the operations of jacquard machines to get 10 point highest skills, before crossing the
age of 35. The weavers of Onnupuram and Athimalaipattu villages are in first place to
have this attitude. In fact, so for, no training programme was organized in these villages
to train the weavers in jacquard weaving.

In Thirumalpur, the weavers have started practicing jacquard only in the last 10 years
and now they have attained only 8 point grade skill. This means, the skills of the
Thirumalpur weavers are 10 years backward when compared with the weavers of
Onnupuram. The skills of Thiruvalam weavers are very less with only 3 point grade,
because the weavers did not go above the Lungi weaving. In fact, many training
programs were organized in these villages to train the weavers in jacquard weaving. Due
to their ignorance, the A and B age group weavers of Thiruvalam village had not tried for
developing their skill and remained only in plain weaving all the years. Because of this,
their earrings also remained at the same level for all the age groups.

The percentage of skills of the weavers is as follows.

In Onnupuram village, 31 percent of the weavers have the ski II of 8 point grade, 21
percent have 9 point and 10 percent have the highest 10 point grade skills. That is, in
total 62 percent have reached with 8 point grade skills, in Onnupuram.

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Table 2: Productivity and Earnings of the weavers, Weaving Cotton Sarees,
Lungi and Silk Sarees

Sr. Varieties
Average
no. of
lungies/
Sarees
woven
per
month
Cost
price of
a lungi
- Saree
with
half fine
zari
Wages
fixed
per
lungi
(2 mts)/
Saree
(6mts)
Total
length
woven
in a
month
(25 days)
in a day
Skill of the
weaver
Grade
Point
Earnings
in a month
Age
groups
capable
to
weave
Male
Female

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Cotton Varieties Count
1 Plain Saree 40s X Poly 38 - Rs.85
209 2 A,B,C,D
8.36 Rs.3230 A,B
2 Check Lungi 60S X 40s 40 Rs.252 Rs. 132
80 2 A,B,C,D
3.20 Rs.5280 A,B
3 Check Lungi 60S X 60S 36 Rs.305 Rs. 160
72 3 A,B,C,D
2.88 Rs. 5760 A,B
4 Check Lungi 80S X 80S 32 Rs.345 Rs. 185
64 3 A,B,C,D
2.56 Rs.5920 A,B
Silk Saree varieties & Ornamentation
Body Border Pallau Butta
5 Plain - - - 10 Rs.3050 Rs.660
60 4 A,B,C,D
2.40 Rs.6600 A,B
6 Plain
Dobby
pet
- - 9 Rs.3500 Rs.800
54 5 A,B,C,D
2.16 Rs. 7200 A,B
7 Plain
120 H
Jacq. Pet
- - 8 Rs.3750 Rs.980
48 6 A,B,C,D
1.92 Rs.7840 A,B,
8 Plain
120 H
Jacq. Pet
Simple extra
weft lines
- 7 Rs.4250 Rs. 1400
42 7 A,B,C
1.68 Rs.9800 A
9 Plain
240 H
Jacq. Pet
Simple extra
weft lines
Body Butta
plain shed
6 Rs.5050 Rs. 1800
36 7 A,B,C
1.44 Rs.10800 A
10
Jacq.
Design
240 H
Jacq. Pet
240 H Jacq.
Single
colour
- 5.5 Rs.6550 Rs.2400
33 8 A,B,C
1.32 Rs.13200 A
11
Jacq.
Design
240 H
Jacq. Pet
240 H Jacq.
Single
colour
Jacq. Body
Butta
5 Rs. 7570 Rs.3000
30 8 A,B,C
1.20 Rs.15000 A
12
Jacq.
Design
240 H
Jacq. Pet
240+240
Single
colour
Jacq. Body
Butta
4.5 Rs.8570 Rs.3800
27 9 A,B
1.08 Rs.17100 -
13
Jacq.
Design
240 H
Jacq. Pet
240+240
Double
colour
Jacq. Body
Butta
4 Rs. 10250 Rs. 4600
24 9 A,B
0.96 Rs.18400 -
14
Jacq.
Design
Double
colour
240 H
Jacq. Pet
240+240
Double
colour
Jacq. Body
Butta
3.5 Rs. 13400 Rs. 5800
21 10 A,B
0.84 Rs.20300 -
15
Jacq.
Design
Double
colour
240 H
Jacq. pet
240+240
Double
colour
Extra 240
Body Butta
3 Rs. 15800 Rs. 7200
18 10 A,B
0.72 Rs.21600 -
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In Athimalaipattu 27 percent of the weavers have the skill of 8 point grade and 5 percent
have 9 point grade skills. That is, in total 32 percent have reached with 8 point grade
skill, in Athimalaipattu.

Table 3: Details of Percentage and Age Group of Weavers Engaged in
Weaving Different Varieties, in 4 Villages
Sl. No.
Of the
variety
(as per
Table-2)
(as per table 2)



Skill of the
weaver
Age
groups
capable to
weave



Male
Thiruvalam Thirumalpur Athimalaipattu Onnupuram
%
Age
groups
engage
in wvg.

Male
%
Age
groups
engage
in wvg.

Male
%
Age
groups
engage in
wvg.

Male
%
Age
groups
engage
in wvg.

Male
Earnings of
the weaver
Female Female Female Female Female
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Cotton Saree / Lungi
1
2 A. B, C. D
-
-
10
C,D

-

-
Rs.3230 A.B B
2
2 A,B,C,D
65
B,C,D

-

-

-
Rs.5280 A,B B
3
3 A.B,C.D
35
A, B

-

-


Rs.5760 A. B B
4
3 A, B,C, D

-

-
15
C,D
2
D
Rs.5920 A, B - - B C
Silk Sarees
5
4 A, B,C, D
-
-
5
C,D
10
C,D
3
D
Rs.6600 A.B - B B
6
5 A, B,C, D
-
-
8
C,D
3
C,D
5
D
Rs.7200 A, B - B B
7
6 A,B,C,D
-
-
12
B,C
6
C,D
7
C
Rs.7840 A,B - B B
8
7 A, B,C
-
-
17
B,C
15
B,C
10
B,C
Rs.9800 A - A A
9
7 A,B,C
-
-
21
A,B
19
B,C
11
B,C
Rs. 10800 A - - A
10
8 A,B,C
-
-
15
A,B
21
A,B
14
B,C
Rs.13200 A - - A
11
8 A, B,C
-
-
12
A
6
A,B
17
B,C
Rs. 15000 A - - A
12
9 A,B
-
-


3
A
12
A,B
Rs.17100 - - - -
13
9 A,B
-
-


2
A-
9
A,B
Rs.18400 - - - -
14
10 A,B
-
-

-

-
6
A,B
Rs 20300 - -
15
10 A, B
-
-

-

-
4
A,B
Rs.21600 - -

In Thirumalpur, in total 27 percent of the weavers have the skill of 8 point grade.

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Therefore, Thirumalpur weavers of age group A have to aim for gaining 9 and 10 point
grade skill and Athimalaipattu weavers have to aim for 10 point grade skill. All these
three villages have maximum number of looms weaving with the four varieties indicated
at serial number 8, 9, 10 and 11 which requires 7 and 8 point grade skill to weave.

The average monthly earnings of the weavers of Thiruvalam village is Rs.5,448,
Thirumalpur village is Rs.9,884, Athimalaipattu village is Rs.10,309 and Onnupuram
village is Rs.13,580. From the study it is clear that Lungi weavers are weaving more than
3 meters every day and earning only Rs.5000 to Rs.5500 per month, whereas the silk
saree weavers are weaving less than 1 meter every day and earning Rs.15000 to
Rs.20000 per month.

Conclusion

Ordinary plain Lungi weaver cannot become expert silk weaver by overnight. The young
weavers have to start first with simple plain weaving and go step by step to weave finally
fine count cotton / silk varieties. They have to modernize their hand loom weaving and
its related processes with latest technology and have to up-grade their skills step by step
to adopt the modern technology before crossing the age 35. Every weaver has to
understand that his earrings in Handloom weaving profession are not merely based on
his productivity but mostly on h is proficiency to weave intricate saree varieties. Keeping
this in view, Government has been trying to upgrade the skill of the handloom weavers
by imparting training under various modules for the last 20 years. In the recent plan,
comprehensive training disciplines have been introduced for Handloom sector under
'Integrated Skill Development Scheme'. Hence, the slogan for the Handloom weaver is
'Hand looms are to weave less length of intricate fabric at slow speed but not to weave
more length of simple plain fabric at high speed'.

This article was originally published in the Textile Review magazine, May
2013 issue, published by Saket Projects Limited, Ahmedabad.

About the Authors:

R.G. Panneerselvam is the Director of Indian Institute of Handloom Technology at Varanasi
(UP).

L. Rathakrishnan is the Professor in RIM, Gandhigram Rural Institute at Gandhigram (TN).