PROJECT REPORT ON

STUDY ON GABARDINE AND DENIM FABRIC COVER FACTOR

SUBMISSION DATE: 30th October, 2013

STUDY ON GABARDINE AND DENIM FABRIC COVER FACTOR

A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Bachelor of Science (Honors) in Textile Engineering (Fabric Manufacturing Technology) under the Supervision of Md. Emdad Sarker By Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan Atish Dipanakar Biggayan O Projukti Bishawbiddalay

APPROVAL

This project titled study on gabardine and denim fabric cover factor submitted by Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan to the Department of Textile Engineering at ADUST, has been accepted as satisfactory for the partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering and approved to its style and contents. The presentation has been held on 4th November, 2013.

DECLARATION
We hereby declare that, this project has been gone by us under the supervision of Md. Emdad Sarker, Adjunct faculty of Department of Textile Engineering at ADUST. We also declare that neither this project nor any part of this project has been submitted elsewhere for awarding degree.

SUPERVISED BY:
Md. Emdad Sarker Adjunct Faculty Atish Dipanakar Biggayan O Projukti Bishawbiddalay

SUBMITTED BY:
Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan ID# 101-150-407 Department of Textile Engineering Atish Dipanakar Biggayan O Projukti Bishawbiddalay

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Atish Dipankar Biggayan O Projukti Bishawbiddalay has given us the opportunity to perform the project work. We obliged to Md. EmdadSarker, lecturer of Department of Textile Engineering, our supervising teacher for his kind co-operation. We also thank Md. Maksudul Islam, Coarse Coordinator of Textile Department for his important advice. Heartfelt thanks goes to textile engineers of various industries from whom we have collected samples. Above all we thank all the teachers of Textile Department for their kind inspiration and help, which remains as a backdrop of all of our efforts. Finally, we would like to convey our acknowledgement that we remain responsible for the inadequacies and errors, which doubtlessly remain ours.

ABSTRACT
At first we collect some of Denim and Gabardine fabric samples and then we find out the required data in the lab by using different instrument which are needed to commence our project work with effective analysis. We also separate the fabrics according to their class so that we can establish an acceptable result which will be perfect for effective use and will help to carry out further activities depending on the established form of work. During our experiment we manage to watch carefully and effectively the denim and gabardine fabric specifications and the major factors which are necessary to calculate different types of variation and variable on which the whole fabric construction depends. Our efforts were to develop a dependable way so that we can easily visualize or can forecast the resulting fabric specification withrequired configuration. We have tried our best to emphasize on the adjustable points on which fabric G.S.M, cover factor, EPI and PPI& compactness directly or indirectly depends. The theoretical as well as the practical knowledge that we gathered from our classes and in the industry, help us to perform our project with credit and for this we specially convey thanks to our honorable teachers.

CONTENTS
NO TITLE PAGE NUMBER 1-2 3-5 6-9 10-15 16-26 27-35 36-37 38-39 40

Chapter-1 General Introduction Chapter-2 Literature Review Chapter-3 Terminology and Definition Chapter-4 Apparatus Chapter-5 Experimental Data Chapter-6 Graph Analysis Chapter-7 Result and Discussion Chapter-8 Conclusion Chapter-9 Bibliography

CHAPTER-1 GENERAL INTRODUCTION

Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibers and yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the term includes assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non-woven processes and tufting. Our project basically is on Denim and Gabardine fabrics Cover factor. A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width, GSM. The title of our project work is Study on Denim and gabardine fabric cover factor and other related specification. Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, EPI and PPI selection, to achieve desired GSM and Compactness of fabric. We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, EPI and PPI, GSM Cover factor for the Denim and Gabardine fabric.

CHAPTER-2 LITERATURE REVIEW

GSM:

CALCULATION OF WARP PER INCH: We calculated the number of warp in 5 inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of warps by five inch to getting the warp per inch. CALCULATION OF PICK PER INCH: We calculated the number of pick in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of picks by five inch to getting the pick per inch. CLOTH COVER FACTOR 1. 2. 3.
( ) ( )

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT: We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we wrap the yarn into template of Beasleys balance and cut them into strips. After that we put the strips of yarn into the balance and counts total number of strips as a measured count. MEASUREMENT OF GSM: GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of denim or gabardine fabric. The production of woven fabric is calculated in length but in our thesis work we needed to calculate weight to analyze cover factor. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most factories. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.

CHAPTER-3 TERMINOLOGY & DEFINITION

Terminology and definition of different keywords are discussed below: WARPS PER INCH: Warp per inch means how many numbers of warp yarns are present in one inch; it is very important for calculation of Woven fabric GSM and fabric properties.

PICKS PER INCH: Picks per inch mean how many numbers of weft threads are present in one inch. It is also very important for calculation of woven fabric GSM.

YARN COUNT: Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn. Yarn count is calculated in two systems: a. Direct system b. Indirect system They are described below: a. Direct system: In this system the count of yarn express the no. wt. units in one length unit. In direct system higher the count, coarser the yarn This system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute etc. and count calculation formula is the following:

Here,

W = Weight of sample. L = Length of sample. w = Unit weight in system. l = Unit length in system.

b. Indirect system: In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit weight. In this system higher the yarn counts finer the yarn. It is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc. and the yarn count calculation formula is the following:

Here,

W = weight of sample. L = length of sample. w = unit weight in system. l = unit length in system.

GSM: GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric. COVER FACTOR A number, derived from the number of warp (or weft) threads per unit length and the linear density of the yarns, that indicates the extent to which the area of a woven fabric is covered by the warp (or weft) yarns.

a) A woven fabric has, therefore, two cover factors, i.e. the warp cover factor and the weft cover factor. b) In the Tex system (q.v.) the cover factor is calculated by the expression: "number of threads per centimeter x 1 divided by the square root of the tex."

AIR PERMEABILITY Air permeability of a fabric is the volume of air measured in cubic centimeters per second through 1 square centimeter for the fabric at a pressure of one centimeter head of water.

CHAPTER-4 APPARATUS

1. BEASLEY BALANCE
Beasley Balance, which is used to determine yarn count of warp and weft of any woven fabric by Direct System. The count is the weight of a unit length of yarn. In Indirect System, Count is the number of hanks of 840 yards length balanced one pound (453.6 gms.) Easy to operate and maintenance free, these machines are made from certified quality raw materials and latest

technology. Known for their high efficiency, noiseless performance and durable finish standards.

FEATURES:
Smooth operation Resistant to corrosion High tensile strength

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:

Metallic body with high quality enamel paint. Precision Jewel bearing type balancing. Leveling Screw is provided for leveling of machine. Template is provided for sampling. Glass sliding doors. 2 Nos. Calibrated riders are supplied with equipments.

RELATED STANDARDS

ASTM D 2260 ASTM D 3776 BS 2865 ISO 7211

2. GSM CUTTER:
GSM cutters are used to determine accurately the GSM (Grams per square meter) of any type of fabrics. This GSM Cutter is circular fabric sample cutter with which uniform circular fabric is cut without measuring. The specimen which is cut with the help of fabric GSM cutter is 100 cm 2 areas. The instrument is equipped with a set of four replaceable blades and normal cutting pads.

Fig: GSM cutter

FEATURES OF GSM CUTTER:

Reliable rapid, and easy to use. 100 Square Centimeters cutting area. Depth of cutting up to 5mm. Special finishes for contacting surfaces to avoid of specimen slippage.

SPECIFICATION OF GSM CUTTER:

The equipment consists of Sample cutter with safety catch lock. The instrument is equipped with a set of four replaceable blades. Two special grade cutting pads are provided with the unit.

The cutting pads have much longer life than normal cutting pads. The Sample Cutter has 4 Nos. of German reversible blades. The blades are reversible in design i.e. if one side gets blunt due to continuous usage, the blades can be turned to the other side. In this way, all the four sides of the blades can be used. Each blade has numbered sides from 1-4 for convenience in changing the blades. The unit is recommended for yield testing i.e. the determination of weight per unit area. The sample cutter cuts out rapidly and accurately circular specimen of 100 cm 2, which is exactly 1 / 100th of a square meter. The result is grams, multiplied by 100, gives the GSM (Grams per square meter) directly. Grams per Square Meter = Specimen Weight in Grams x 100

HOW GSM CUTTER WORKS?

The material to be cut is placed between the Sample Cutter and a Special Cutting Board. When the safety catch is released, light downward pressure on the hand wheel brings the multiple blades into contact with the material. Specimens are cut by rotating the hand wheel under a light and even pressure. The design and precision manufacture of the instrument ensures the specimens are perfectly circular and have smooth edges. To maintain the cutting efficiency, the blades should be turned or changed when they become damaged or blunt, and the Cutting Board should be turned or changed when it becomes worn.

APPLICATIONS OF GSM CUTTER:

GSM cutter are not just use in textile industry, they are use in various other industries like acrylic sheets, aluminum and foils, bags and luggage of cotton, plastic, paper and leather, beach wear, blankets, belts, foot ware, paper industry, package material, machines, boxes, polyester & BOPP films, hand tufted carpets, home furnishing items Teflon products, thermal paper & thermocol and various other endless things.

COUNTING GLASS
Pick Glass is used to determine the reed and pick in woven fabric. Reed is actually number of ends or number of warp threads per inch and by picks we mean the number of picks or number of weft threads per inch. The following procedure is based on IS 1963: 1981 methods: Sampling 1. Avoid sampling within 50 mm from the selvedge.

2. Within two meters from either end of a piece or roll. 3. While sampling from design fabrics it is convenient to: a. Determine the number of units in a weave repeat from a point paper diagram b. Count i. The number of whole repeats ii. The remaining units, in the distance across which the threads are to be counted. iii. From the above data so obtained, the number of threads per centimeter or inch both in warp way or weft way as required can be calculated.

PROCEDURE 1. Keep the test sample on a flat table and smoothen it out 2. Set the pointer of the counting glass at zero. 3. Place the counting glass on the fabrics in a direction parallel to warp if weft density is to be determined and parallel to weft if warp density is to be determined. 4. Find the number of warp or weft threads in a specified length as required. 5. Following the procedure prescribed in steps 1 to 4, determine the number of warp and weft threads per centimeter or inch in at least four more places. 6. Calculate the number of warp or weft threads per centimeter or inch by the following formula: n = N L Where n = number of warp or weft threads per centimeter (or inch), N = observed number of threads in the distance L, and L = distance in centimeter (or inch) across which the threads are counted.

7. Calculate the mean of all the values and report it as the number of warp or weft threads per centimeter or inch of the fabric.

CHAPTER-5 EXPERIMENTAL DATA

FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-1

Sample name

Test 1

Weft Count 10 12 13 10 10

Average Count

Warp Count 12 9 10 10 11

Average Count

EPI

PPI

Gabardine 1

2 3 4 5

12

10

80

45

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-1 1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-2

Sample name

Test

Weft Count 10 9 10 9 10

Average Count

Warp Count 12 11 12 11 11

Averag e Count

EPI

PPI

Gabardine 2

1 2 3 4 5

10

12

102

62

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-2 1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-3

Sample name Test Weft Count 9 10 10 9 10 Average Count Warp Count 19 19 17 18 18 Averag e Count 18 EPI PPI

Gabardine 3

1 2 3 4 5

10

80

54

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-3 1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-4

Sample name Test 1 2 3 4 5 Weft Count 12 12 11 10 11 Average Count Warp Count 25 25 24 25 24 Average Count EPI PPI

Gabardine 4

11

25

160

60

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-4 1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-5

Sample name Test 1 2 3 4 5 Weft Count Average Count 10 9 10 10 10 9 Warp Count 13 12 13 13 13 Average Count EPI PPI

CLOT
13 152 52

Gabardine 5

H COVE

R FACTOR FOR GABARDINE SAMPLE-5

1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR DENIM SAMPLE-1

Sample name Test Weft Count Averag e Count Warp Count 5 5 5 5 5 Average Count EPI PPI

CLOT H
5 102 48

Denim 1

1 2 3 4 5

8 7 8 7 8

COVE R

FACTOR FOR DENIM SAMPLE-1

1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR DENIM SAMPLE-2

Sample name Test 1 2 3 4 5 Weft Count 7 7 7 6 7 Average Count Warp Count 4 5 5 5 5 Average Count EPI PPI

Denim 2

82

45

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR DENIM SAMPLE-2

1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR DENIM SAMPLE-3

Sample name Test 1 2 3 4 5 Weft Count 8 7 7 8 8 Average Count Warp Count 5 6 6 6 5 Average Count EPI PPI

Denim 3

90

52

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR DENIM SAMPLE-3

1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR DENIM SAMPLE-4

Sample name Test 1 2 3 4 5 Weft Count 15 16 16 16 15 Average Count Warp Count 15 16 16 16 15 Average Count EPI PPI

Denim 4

16

16

105

62

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR DENIM SAMPLE-4

1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

FOR DENIM SAMPLE-5

Sample name Test Weft Count Average Count Warp Count 5 6 5 5 5 Average Count EPI PPI

Denim 5

1 2 3 4 5

5 5 6 6 6

105

62

CLOTH COVER FACTOR FOR DENIM SAMPLE-5 1.

2.

3.
( ) ( )

CHAPTER-6 GRAPH ANALYSYS

GABARIDNE WARP COUNT AND WARP COVER FACTOR:

45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Count of G 1 Count of G2 W Count of G3 W Count of G4 W Count of G5 W W Count Cover factor

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Gabardine Warp count and Warp cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the gabardine fabrics warp cover factor is equal or greater than warp count. The graph line of warp cover factor stays top of the count graph line.

GABARIDNE WEFT COUNT AND WEFT COVER FACTOR:

25

20

15 Count 10 Cover Factor

0 Count G1 Wt Count G2 Wt Count G3 Wt Count G4 Wt Count G5 Wt

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Gabardine Weft count and Weft cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the gabardine fabrics weft cover factor is almost equal or greater than weft count. The graph line of warp cover factor stays top of the count graph line.

GABARDINE WARP AND WEFT COVER FACTOR:

45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Cover factor Cover factor Cover factor Cover factor Cover factor Warp cover factor Weft cover factor

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Gabardine Warp and Weft cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the gabardine fabrics warp cover factor is almost equal or greater than weft cover factor. The graph line of warp cover factor stays top of the weft cover factor graph line.

DENIM WARP COUNT AND WARP COVER FACTOR:

50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 D 1 W count D 1 W count D 1 W count D 1 W count D 1 W count Count Cover Factor

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Denim Warp count and Warp cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the denim fabrics warp cover factor is greater than weft count. There is big difference between the graph line of warp cover factor and warp count graph line.

DENIM WEFT COUNT AND WEFT COVER FACTOR:

30

25

20 Count Cover factor 10

15

0 D1 Wt count D1 Wt count D1 Wt count D1 Wt count D1 Wt count

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Denim Weft count and Weft cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the denim fabrics weft cover factor varies with the count variation and in many points the weft count and weft cover factor may be very equal to each other. For example on the graph there is a point where weft count and cover factor is almost same. In the graph line in one point cover factor and weft count graph lien near to touch each other.
DENIM WARP AND WEFT COVER FACTOR:

50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Cover factor Cover factor Cover factor Cover factor Cover factor 1 2 3 4 5 Warp cover factor Weft cover factor

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Denim Warp and Weft cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the Denim fabrics warp cover factor is greater than weft cover factor. The graph line of warp cover factor stays top of the weft cover factor graph line with maintaining considerable difference.

CLOTH COVER FACTOR OF GABARDINE AND DENIM FABRICS:

40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1 2 3 4 5 Gabardine cloth cover factor Denim Cloth cover factor

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Gabardine and Denim cloth cover factor

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the cover factor for denim and gabardine fabric may vary for different count of warp and weft threads. And comparatively denim fabrics cover factor dominates above the gabardine fabrics cover factor.

GSM OF GABARDINE AND DENIM FABRICS:

800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 GSM 1 GSM 2 GSM 3 GSM 4 GSM 5 Denim Gabardine

Figure: Graph for Comparison between Gabardine and Denim GSM

COMMENTS: From the graph it is clear that the GSM of denim fabrics is comparatively higher than gabardine fabrics. But incase of some special type denim fabrics which are generally used for making shirts are lighter in GSM than gabardine fabrics

CHAPTER-7 RESULT AND DISCUSSION

The results for the different fabric cloth cover factor are given below: Cover factor for Gabardine sample-1: Cover factor for Gabardine sample-2: Cover factor for Gabardine sample-3: Cover factor for Gabardine sample-4: Cover factor for Gabardine sample-5: Cover factor for Denim sample-1: Cover factor for Denim sample-2: Cover factor for Denim sample-3: Cover factor for Denim sample-4: Cover factor for Denim sample-5: 26.57 28.57 24.44 29.4 33.84 34.94 28.788 31 27.25 29.82

Chapter-8 CONCLUSION

This project discuss the effect of count on fabric thickness, its influence on EPI and PPI, fabric warp and weft cover factor for denim and gabardine fabric depend on fabric count, EPI and PPI. Denim fabric cover factor value is

comparatively higher than gabardine fabric cover factor. Fabric cover factor is influenced by thread count, thread per inch.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

# Fibre2Fashion.com # The Indian Textile journal # Textilelab.blogspot.com #Textilelearner.blogspot.com # Wood Head Publication. # Cotton Incorporated. # Incampus.com #scribd.com