FANTASTIC FINISHES

CoIorin and!inishin|cathcrthc!icbinVa
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
GETTING STARTED e e++ s + e++e ++ + s + e s + e ++ + e e e e e ee+ 1
LEATHER DYES: ALCOHOL, OIL WATER BASED . +++e e e e e e e e s +sZ
BRUSH SELECTION CARE e + e e e + e eeee . . + e e +e e + e ee e ee ++++ ee ^
BACKGROUND DYEING + e+e +emseee +d
COLORING AN OAK LEAF +es+++s e eeee+ + +es se b
COLORING A FLORAL e e + e e + e eeee e e + e e e e + e e e e e e e +e e e ee e e + e++e e e e e e
COLORING A FIGURE PICTORIAL SCENE s e e es+ e s e e + e e e e e e s + s s e +e eeeeeeJ
MORE COLORING TECHNIQUES eee + seeeseee e e e e + +e e + ee o
ACRYLIC COLORS e+ + e . em++ . ++ V
ANTIQUES + + + + ++++ee + e e e e + e e q+ + + s + ++e e + e e ee++qqs + e e + e e e +e + +e qe + + e + + e e + e e e qq e + + e e +e 1
SPECIAL EFFECTS ++ e e e e ++ e e e e + s + e e e & e e e e e e e e e e e s + s s e + 11
TOP FINISHES eee e e e e ee e e e . e e e + e e e e +e e +++ . e e l4
EDGE FINISHING eees s s s +s + + s s e eeeeee + e e +e e e e s e e . e e 1J
LEATHER CARE + ++ + + + + + s + qq e e s e s + +++ ++q e s e e e e e + s +qqe e + + + + e qq++ e + +e e e 1'
COLOR CHARTS ee e eeee ++e + e e e e +++++ ++ s s . e Z
COMPATIBILITY CHARTS ee++++ e e se e + e e ss ee+ e + e e 21
INTRODUCTION
Since IVD, the Fiebing Company has been manufacturing and developing high quality dyes, stains, fnishes and
leather care products in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. cbngv, as it has come to be known, is dedicated to serving the
needs of leather workers, crafts people and hobbyists worldwide. The Fiebing Company continues to combine
classic formulations with moder processes and materials to create products that are trusted by professionals and
hobbyists of all ages. This book illustrates how Fiebing's dyes, stains, antiques and finishes will help your leather
projects come alive and how Fiebing's leather care products will ensure that your work is preserved for all to enjoy.
This book is intended to provide a collection of demonstrations and informative tips and is sure to be a worthy
addition to your leather working library.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
TOOLED BORDER
WITH FIGURE
CARVED CENTER
BORDER CENTER
BACKGROUND DYED
SHERIDAN COLORING
ADDED TO BORDER
GETTING STARTED
SELECTING THE RIGHT DYE, STAIN, ANTIQUE AND FINISH FOR
YOUR PROJECT: After spending hours tooling your leather project, adding color can
often seem like a "leap of faith". To lessen the doubt and increase your confidence, first
consider all of the possibilities illustrated in this book before settling on products to use.
Each has its advantages and can enhance the look and durability of your leather project.
Some will penetrate the leather more than others; some will result in bolder and brighter
colors and others will vary depending on the type of leather used. By the time you fnish
this book and with practice, you should be able to identify which Fiebing's product best
suits your needs.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLOR: Experiment with applying diferent colors on samples
of leather that are as close as possible to the leather used for your final piece. No two pieces
of leather are exactly the same; be patient and practice. Expect some variances even when
using the same products and colors.
SET UP A PROPER WORKSPACE: Work in a well lit space. A good mix of natural
and artifcial lighting is always preferable. Make sure your workspace is well ventilated
and free of unnecessary obstacles. Set up your work bench so that everything needed for
coloring your project is within easy reach. Keep lots of rags or paper towels close for clean
up. Choose a chair that puts you in a comfortable position over your project.
PREPARE THE LEATHER FOR DYEING AND FINISHING: Be sure your leather is
as clean as possible. Fie bing's Dye Prep is a formulated cleaner for use on leather that has
not been previously dyed or fnished. Fiebing's Deglazer can be used to clean and prepare
leather that has been previously fnished - it is the more potent of the two prep products.
COMPATIBILITY: Always consider which products work best together before applying
them to your leather project. A Compatibility Chart is found on page Z1.
THE BUCKING SADDLE BRONC COVER was designed, tooled and colored by
Tony Laier. Shown on this page are some of the techniques used to add color to the
original tooled piece. The following pages of this book will explain in more detail these
techniques and offer tips for coloring and finishing your projects.
CENTER COLORED
TOOLED LOGO APPLIED
Copyright ?003Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
LOGO COLORED FOR
FINAL COVER
LEATHER DYES: ALCOHOL, OIL WATER BASED
Choose the best dye or stain for your project, style and comfort level.
See pages 20 & 21 for color swatches.
FIEBING'S LEATHER DYE FIEBING'S PROFESSIONAL OIL DYE
The most recognized and trusted
penetrating alcohol based leather dye
in the world.
FIEBING'S LEATHERCOLORS
Penetrating leather dye that complies
with VOC regulations. Formulated with
a low VOC solvent base resulting in a
uniform fnish.
FIEBING'S LEATHER STAIN
Non-flammable, penetrating dye that
provides long lasting color. Fiebing's
Leather Stain is Linseed Oil based.
An alcohol based, penetrating dye created specifically
for natural strap leather, vegetable tanned leather,
bag and case leather. Vibrant colors and superior \
protection.
FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL
LEATHER DYE
Non-fammable, water based, penetrating leather dye
formulated for usc in hospitals, schools. prisons and
other institutions.
FIEBING'S DYE REDUCER
Use with alcohol based Leather Dye, Leather Colors
and Professional Oil Dye to dilute colors.
OVERALL COLORING TECHNIQUES
To do "overall" (large space) dyeing, be sure to have a suffcient quantity of dye on hand to cover the entire area.
Dyes may vary slightly in shade so consider combining more than one bottle to create a large enough batch needed to
complete the job without color variance. As always, make sure your workspace is well ventilated before using any of
these dyes. Here are various application techniques for applying the dye:
USING A DAUBER:
Dip dauber in dye and begin
in upper left corer moving
quickly in a continuous
circular motion, overlapping
the previous stroke. Keep
dauber full of dye, resuming
circular movement over
lapping previous strokes.
When the !st coat is dry, you may see light and dark spots. Go
over the entire project again, in te opposite direction with the
same procedure. If necessary, dye a third time or more until proper
coverage is achieved. When dry, buff to remove any excess dye
off surface and to achieve a sheen.
USING A SPRAYER (Air Brush or Aerosol
Sprayer with Bottle): Be sure you have plenty of
pre-mixed dye before starting. Fill bottle with dye. Attach
sprayer. Place project in a spray booth or spray box made
from cardboard. Position box on a sturdy table covered
with paper in a well ventilated area. Prop up project on
cardboard pieces or sticks to raise it up off paper. Tlus
will prevent dye from pooling along bottom edge.
USING BRUSHES:
When dyeing with a FLAT brush,
use cross and diagonal strokes for
1st, 2nd and 3rd applications for
a more solid, even dye coverage.
When using a ROUND brush, move
quickly in a circular motion so each
stroke slightly overlaps the previous
stroke. When more dye is needed,
dip, then resume circular movement
overlapping previous stroke. When
dry, buff to remove excess dye off
surface and for a sheen.
Begin spraying of the project on one side. Move across project spraying off project on the other side. Continue back and forth until
project is covere. Maintain a uniform distance from the project while spraying. Spray light coats until desired color is achieved. Allow
to dry. Give project a quarter mand re-spray if necessary. Allow to dry and buff with sheep wool or soft cloth to remove excess dye in
preparation for a top fnish and to achieve a sheen.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
#4&#1
ROUND
RED SABLE
BRUSHES
BRUSH SELECTION CARE
Most techniques of coloring can be done with a good quality or h+Round Red Sable brush. The head
should be approximately 1lin diameter by /long with a good snap or spring and a gradual taper to
a fine sharp point. A 1Round Sable is also good to have at hand for very fne detail work. Have separate
brushes for each color category (browns, reds, greens, yellows, blues and black). No matter how well a
brush is cleaned, some dye color will always remain in the brush ferrule. Dye that remains hidden in the
ferrule will eventually migrate down the bristles and mix with whatever color is being used.
GENERAL RULE: "The better the brush, the better the results."
TIP: Mark the end of each brush handle with electrical tape or paint that matches the
color category each brush is to be used for to avoid confusion.
HOW TO USE BRUSHES: Before using new brushes for the frst time, clean them thoroughly as described
below. Familiarize yourself with the brushes on scrap leather. Dip brush tip into dye (only Jl4of the bristle
length) but never up to or over the ferrule. Practice using varied
amounts of dye and pressure. LOADED means the brush is full

of dye. Too much dye is not a good practice. However, an over

loaded brush can be carefully used when fooding a background
surface. The amount of downward pressure on brush tip will

dictate the width of the stroke and the amount of dye

released. Only practice will help you decide when to

_

use more or less pressure.

1
CLEANING AND CARING FOR BRUSHES:
DYE REDUCER OR
WATER
When using ALCOHOL or OIL DYES, clean brushes with Fiebing's DYE REDUCER.
When using WATER BASED DYES, clean with water. TO CLEAN: Pull brush head
across a stack of folded paper towels or tissues while dripping dye reducer or water
directly on the bristles. Move to a clean area of the towel after each wipe. This will
remove most of the dye without harming the bristles. Then gently wash brush head
in warm soapy water (mild hand or dish soap). Pat brush dry on a paper towels and
reform the tip to opoint by rolling the tip in the crease of your palm.
TIP: Apply a drop of hand lotion in crease of your palm
before forming the tip. This will help retain the tip's point and
condition bristles for longer life. When properly cared for, good
quality brushes should last for many years.
REFORM TIP
OF BRUSH
MORE USEFUL ITEMS TO HAVE ON HAND
SCRAP LEATHER
MATCHING PIECE TO
BE COLORED
PAPER TOWELS
REDUCER FOR OIL
& ALCOHOL DYES
WATER FOR
WATER-BASED DYES
PLASTIC MULTI
HOLE PALLET
4
PLASTIC
SQUEEZE
BOTTLES &
EYE DROPPERS
Copyright 200SFiebing Compay. AII rights reserved

EXTRA APPLICATORS
.\\1J|l|
q
RACK FOR BRUSHES
(Brushes rack holes marked w/colors)
BACKGROUND DYEING
By defnition, the background behind a tooled design is dyed
separately from the rest of the piece. Practice using a h+Sable
brush for large areas and tight spaces on a piece of scrap leather
until you can control the movement of the brush. A h1 Sable may
be used in tight spaces if desired.
Always begin dyeing in the center of an open larger space; then
work towards the edges and into tight corners. Never touch
a cut edge or small area. Place brush near the space or edge
and let dye work up into the space. The technique for coloring
silhouetted designs and background coloring are the same.
TIP: After dipping brush in dye, touch tip on paper
Starting in a small space risks
having dye "bleed".
Correctly started in the
center of a space.
or scrap leather to remove excess dye before applying
dye to your project. Too much dye will run and "bleed"
into tool cuts and impressions.
WET BRUSHING is applying full strength or diluted hues of dyes with a heavily
loaded brush to obtain the most even full cover of dye tones.
This technique is most commonly used for background coloring Useen here and in Step I
on the next page. It is also used when base coats are applied to projects in preparation for
other techniques.
SHADING WITH DILUTED HUES is a shading technique using 2 or more
(nmmally 3) progressively darker strengths of one or more dye colors to create shape and
shadow. This type of coloring almost always follows the old water color rule "work light to
dark". Lighter and darker shades of dye are created by diluting dyes with diferent amounts
of the appropriate diluter: thinner or dye reducer for alcohol or oil based dye and water
for water based dves Refer to Monochrome Coloring on \HUf K !nrH diferent
appucauon or tccfiIQUe.
Heavily diluted
Kelly Green
Alcohol Dye
Lightly diluted
Kelly Green
Alcohol Dye
Full strength
Chocolate Brown
& Yellow
Full strength
Kelly Green
Alcohol Dye
DRY BRUSH SHADING is shading with full strength or diluted hues using a brush containing very little dye. To do this technique, dip
the tip of the brush into the dye, then stroke the brush on a paper towel or scrap piece of leather to remove most of the dye while forming
the tip of the brush into a fan shape. The fan shaped tip of the brush is then stroked lightly over the leather allowing only a very small
amount of dye to penetrate into the most raised areas of the leather adding color to those areas.
HIGHLIGHTING or "bringing out" (1) GRASS
and bark pattern detail on pictorial carvings and (2)
HAIR detail on fgure carved pictures are just two
of the many uses for the DRY BRUSH SHADING
coloring technique. This technique defines detail.
(1) GRASS
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
(2) HAIR
COLORING AN OAK LEAF
DEMO USING FIEBING'S LEATHERCOLORS
The How-To on this page is done using Fiebing's low VOC LeatherColors. The same steps can be followed using
Fiebing's alcohol or oil based dyes as well. The demonstration below includes 5steps to achieve a finished, colored
piece. However, depending on your choice of colors and hues (diluted colors) you may require more or less steps.
DYES & HUES USED
Yellow
(diluted) (diluted)
(diluted) (diluted)
| dilutedI |u|!utcu) cd
Mix desired color hues in enough quantity
to complete your project and keep count
of how much Fiebing's Reducer full
strength color you use to create the hue.
STEP 3
Diluted & full strength Green
(with Yellow added)
STEP I
Full strength Chocolate & Yellow
STEP 4
Diluted & full strength
Chocolate
Copyright ?008Fiebing Company. All rights reserved
STEP 2
Diluted & full strength
Medium Brown
STEP 5
Diluted & full strength Red
COlORING A FlORAl
DEMO USING FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL LEATHER DYES
The How-To on this page is done using Fiebing's water based Institutional Leather Dye. The same steps can be
followed using Fiebing's alcohol or oil based dyes as well. The demonstration below includes 5steps to achieve a
finished, colored piece. However, depending on your choice of colors and hues (diluted colors), you may require
more or less steps.
DYES & HUES USED
Black Yellow
(diluted) (diluted)
Red
Tan
Green
Mix your desired color hues in
enough quantity to complete
your project or keep count of
how much water & f\ll strength
color you use to create the hue.
STEP 3
Diluted & full strength Tan
STEP 1 STEP 2
Full strength Black Full strength Yellow
STEP 4 STEP 5
Diluted & full strength Green Full strength Red
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
COLORING A FIGURE PICTORIAL SCENE
DEMO USING FIEBING'S LEATHER DYE
The How-To on this page is done using Fiebing's alcohol based Leather Dye. The same steps can be followed using
Fiebing's water based or oil based dyes as well. The demonstration below includes 5steps to achieve a fnished, colored
piece. However, depending on your choice of colors and hues (diluted colors), you may require more or less steps.
Acrylic Dyes were used to add accent colors to the sky, deer and snow on mountains.
DYES & HUES USED
Chocolate Britsh
1anMx
(diluted)
(diluted) (diluted)
Chocolate
Green
Kelly Green
Chocolate & Black Mix
(diluted) (full 1f C 11g1f1)
Acrylic Dyes:
White Blue
D
STEP 3
--
Diluted full strength Green
--
LIutcd uII strength Kelly Green
STEP 1
Diluted & stronger Chocolate &
British Tan Mix
STEP 4
Diluted & full strength Chocolate &
Black Mix on rocks & mountains
Copyright 208F.cbngCompny.AIItights reserved
STEP 2
Full strength Chocolate
STEP 5
D
White & Mix of Blue
& White Acrylic Colors
MORE COLORING TECHNIQUES
MONOCHROME COLORING
MONOCHROME COLORING is coloring with one color or various shades of that one color. This technique
involves beginning with a light shade of one color and adding darker shades of the same color to create a 3-D effect
of roundness and depth on an object.
Brown is the preferred color. when using this technique on leather because natural vegetable tanned leather is a shade
of brown. However, any color will work. The samples below show how efective the Monochrome Coloring technique
can be using just three shades of one brown color. Drawings on the left show where different shades are used.
2A) Second area to be colored. Use about a half and half
mx of dye and solvent (or water).
3A) Third area to be colored. Use full strength dye.
lB) FIRST COAT: Acts as a base coat, defining
muscle tones, shadow areas and highlights.
2B) SECOND COAT: Used to strengthen and defne
muscle tones, shadow areas and highlights.
3B) THIRD COAT: Used to color eye and apply final
shading and coloring for definition.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
ACRYliC COLORS
FIEBING'S ACRYLIC DYE
Quick drying, long lasting leather paint for color
coating a smooth leather surface. Acrylic dye is fexible
and water resistant. The colors are easily mixed and
can be diluted with water. Acrylic dye also makes for a
great edge finish. Fiebing's offers a convenient Acrylic
Dye Pack that includes ! Acrylic Dye colors, Fiebing's
Resolene top fin ish and 2mtist brushes.
TIP: Normally, Acrylic Dye is applied over
natural or dyed leather using a brush. Many
different textured effects can be achieved
using other applicators, such as sponges
(natural and synthetic), daubers, wool, cloth,
etc. Clean applicators with water.
TIP: To color a sky as shown above, dampen leather frst to extend the time Acrylic Dye can be worked before drying. Begin
at the top using a dark blue-white mix. Blend in more white to lighten the sky as it approaches the mountain tops. Add in
wispy clouds last using straight white thinned with water to form a wash.
STRONG USE: Sample above shows white
acrylic applied in quantity to bring out the
flo
wer petals.

TIP: When adding accent
detail using acrylic dyes on
a fgure or pictorial carved
piece, it is important to have
as much control of the dye
direction as possible. This
control requires a quality
brush. A #1 Round Red Sable
brush works very well for
detail and allows control
of dye placement.
SUBTLE USE: Sample above shows white
acrylic applied paringly with a quality
brush to accent deer features.
Copyright 200SFiebing Company. Arights reserved
FIEBING'S
ANTIQUE
LEATHER STAIN
Antique Leather Stain is
an acrylic, water based
antique fnish. Apply in
a circular motion with
a dauber, wool swatch
or cloth. Wipe off excess with a cloth or
damp sponge leaving antique in the cuts
for contrast.
ANTIQUES
FIEBING'S
ANTIQUE FINISH
Antique Finish is a paste
that offers a soft patina
that emphasizes tooling,
carving and embossing.
Antique Finish is applied boldly in a
circular motion with a dry piece of wool
or cloth. Immediately remove excess of
raised areas leaving desired amount in the
cuts for contrast. Antique Finish can be
thinned with Fiebing's Tan Kote. Use a top
fnish of your choice for desired results.
FIEBING'S
HI-LITER
Hi-Liter is an easy to
use stain that imparts
a light brown color to
natural leather combined
with a dark brown build
up of color in cuts and
impressions for maximum contrast. Apply
with a damp sponge and rub well into cuts
and tooled impressions. Remove excess
with a damp sponge and apply a top finish
of choice as needed.
APPLICATORS FOR ANTIQUES STAINS
CLOTH
Cloth may be used to apply all antiques and stains but is most commonly used to remove excess after the antique or stain has been
applied using other applicators such sheep wool, sponges or daubers. Cloth, especially when wrapped tightly around a small wooden
block ("block dyeing"), will leave more antique down in cuts and impressions than other types of applicators. For a lighter look to an
antiqued project, slightly dampen the cloth with water before use, which will allow more pigment (color) to be lifted and removed. A
clean, soft cloth also works well to buf antiques to a nice sheen in preparation for the application of a fnal top fnish.
SHEEP WOOL
Sheep wool is also a good applicator for all antiques and stains, but is preferred for applying Antique Finish. The texture of wool helps
to push Antique Finish, a thick paste, down into cuts and impressions. Sheep wool also holds a lot of antique and stain allowing for
greater coverage and a longer working time in between trips to the container. No other material works better to remove unwanted excess
antique stain, wax fnishes, soap, etc. from cuts and impressions. In addition, the softness of wool makes it ideal for almost all buffng
and polishing.
SPONGE
A sponge, slightly dampened, is the preferred applicator for applying Antique Leather Stains and Hi-Liter. These liquids tend to dry
quickly during application. A sponge's cell structure allows it to hold a lot of stain and the added water acts as an extender which allows
for a longer time to work the product evenly into the leather. A slightly dampened sponge also works well to remove excess stain and
Hi-Liter before a top fnish is applied.
BRUSHES & DAUBERS
Brushes and daubers are mainly used to apply liquid dyes or edge coatings, but they can also be used in some cases to apply antiques
and stains. These include applying antique and stain on smaller projects or on projects where a lot of control is called for, such as areas
to be left antique or stain fee resisted).
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
SPECIAL EFFECTS: BASE COAT ANTIQUING
BASE COAT ANTIQUING TECHNIQUE involves using diferent colors of Fiebing's alcohol, oil or water based
dyes together with different colors of Fie bing's Antique Finish to produce an almost limitless combination of deep,
vibrant colors on vegetable tanned leather. This technique brings out carved, stamped and tooled designs as well as
highlights seams, edges of appliques and overlays.
HOW TO DO BASE COAT ANTIQUING
1) Apply an overall base coating of Fiebing's water, alcohol or oil leather dye using an aerosol sprayer or air
brush . The more even the base coat the better.
2) Optional: Adding shading around figures and edges plus background dyeing some areas a darker color than
the base coat color can emphasize and add depth to the design. (See Bison Head shown below.)
3) Allow dye to dry completely. Then buff with a clean soft cloth or piece of sheep wool to remove any pigment
from the surface.
4) Apply a liberal coat of Fiebing's Antique Finish. (For best results, use a darker color of Antique Finish than
the dye color used for the original base coat.) Be sure antique gets into all impressions and cuts.
5) Before Antique Finish dries, remove excess fnish with a clean piece of sheep wool and buff to a soft luster.
6) Allow to dry completely. Then apply a Fie bing's Top Finish of your choice.
Tooling by Tony Laier /Coloring by Philip Smith (Phoro courtesy of Steel Strike Leather Products, Inc.)
Copyright 2008Fiebiog Compay. AIIrights reserved
SPECIAL EFFECTS: RESISTS (BLOCKING)
Most Fiebing's top finishes, when applied to natural or dyed leather, will resist or block the penetration of antiques
and stains. Some will resist or block more than others depending on what base was used, not only in the top finish,
but also in the antique or stain. For instance, acrylic based Leather Sheen will resist or block more with acrylic based
antiques or stains than resin based Tan-Kote. The various hues possible can be used to create many different effects.
USING RESISTS ON NATURAL (UNDYED) LEATHER:
EXAMPLE Al shows a RESIST OF FIEBING'S LEATHER SHEEN applied with a brush to a design on natural leather. EXAMPLE A2
shows Fiebing's Antique Leather Stain applied over the design, after top fnish dried.
Al A2
EXAMPLE Bl shows the same design RESISTED WITH FlEEING'S TAN-KOTE. EXAMPLE B2 shows application ofFiebing's
Antique Leather Stain. Notice the darker hues created with the lesser resisting or blocking power of the resin based Tan-Kote.
Bl
USING RESISTS ON DYED LEATHER:
A resist of Fiebing's Leather Sheen, Fiebing's Tan-Kote or other top fnish over a design colored with Fiebing's
Leather Dye (alcohol, oil or water based) can be used with great effect to tone down harsh colors and defne cuts
and impressions.
EXAMPLE Cl shows a design colored with alcohol dye, RESISTED WITH LEATHER SHEEN. EXAMPLE C2 shows design coated
with Fiebing's Antique Leather Stain after the Leather Sheen dried.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
SPECIAL EFFECTS: RESISTS (BLOCKING)
EXAMPLE Dl shows the same alcohol dye colored design. RESISTED WITH FlEBfNG'S TA-KOTE.EXAMPLE D2 shows the
design coated with Fiebing's Antique Leather Stain after the TanKote dried.
Dl D2
USING ANTIQUE AND STAINS WITH ACRYLIC DYES:
Antiques and stains may also be applied over a design painted with acrylic dye. The antique or stain will tone down
acyclic dyes' bright colors, at the same time accenting all cuts lines and impressions. Note: it is advisable to seal the
color white with an acrylic top fnish to prevent the antique or stain from turning the white dye yellow. Diferent top
finishes may be applied as resists over all colors of acrylic dye.
EXAMPLE El >hoYs a design colored with Fie bing's Acrylic Dye before a coat of Fiebing's Antique Finish is applied.
EXAMPLE E2 shows the same acrylic colored design after a coat of Fiebing's Dark Brown Antique Finish was applied. A top coat resist
may be applied over leaves and fowers before antiquing if brighter colors are desired.
El E2
BEESWAX AND LEATHERCRAFT CEMENT
FIEBING'S BEESWAX CAKES
Fiebing's Bees Wax is the perfect thread pre-coating for all linen handstitching threads. Strengthens and protects
thread for easier sewing and longer thread life. Pure beeswax cakes are also used by boot makers to fill cracks in the
toes and heels of boots and shoes before final finishing.
TIP: Beeswax can be used as a creative resist. Lightly draw a design onto leather with edge of wax. Gently
brush off excess wax residue. Apply dye. Remove excess dye and lightly buf. Great for kids.
FIEBING'S LEATHERCRAFT CEMENT
High strength bonding leathercraft cement for all leathers. Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement is the perfect adhesive to
use for filigree and applique work. Non-fammable. non-toxic and quick drying.
TIP: May also be used as a resist or block. Use a brush to apply. Thin with water if necessary. Let dry
completely before applying dyes, stains or antiques.
Copyright 200SFiebing Company. AIIrights reserved
TOP FINISHES
BEFORE APPLYING A TOP FINISH TO YOUR PROJECT:
PREPARE YOUR WORKSPACE:
1) Clear away all unnecessary supplies, especially dyes, applicators, cloths, wool pieces that may
contain dye residue that could get onto your fnished project.
2) Use a small dish or extra empty clean bottle for easier access with applicator.
3) Also have a dish of water available for dampening sponges or cloths if necessary.
4) Have all possible applicators handy and ready to use.
5) Have excess amounts of paper towels and a trash can with plastic liner.
APPLYING A TOP FINISH:
NOTE: Practice finishing techniques on scrap leather.
1) Dip end of sponge (or other applicator) into finish and
apply to the leather, beginning at top and working downward.
2) Dip in finish as often as needed.
3) Apply liberally and work into all cuts and depressions.
4) Move quickly and try to spread finish as evenly as possible.
5) Some fnishes should not be rubbed or buffed after they are dry.
Always read directions for use before applying the finish.
TIP: Most Fiebing's top fnishes may be applied with an air brush, aerosol or commercial sprayer. Thicker
top fnishes such as Fiebing's Tan-Kote and Fiebing's Bag Kote should be thinned with water before use.
Always begin and end spraying off of the project to prevent spots of heavy build-up. Spray on light coats
allowing each to dry before applying another.

FIEBING'S INSTITUTIONAL
LEATHER FINIS
H
A water based neutral top finish for use in schools,
hospitals, prisons and other institutions. Although it is
best applied with a spray, it can be applied sparingly
with a soft cloth or brush. Do not let finish run.
FIEBING'S LEATHER BALM
WITH ATOM WAX
A specifically formulated liquid wax fnish that can be
buffed to a rich, soft, velvety luster. Although Leather
Balm with Atom Wa is not a water resistant top fnish,
it is the preferred fnish of many professional belt
makers. It is best applied sparingly with a soft cloth or
wool skin worked evenly into the leather and allowed
to dry.
FIEBING'S CARNAUBA CREAM
This blend of natural waxes, originally developed
for use on smooth leather, also works well on certain
carved and stamped projects. If used on carved or
stamped leather, any residue should be removed from
cuts and impressions as explained in the TIP on this
page. Work evenly into the leather with a soft cloth or
sheep wool. Allow to dry and buff to a mellow glow.
TIP: When a top finish containing wax is used
on a tooled design, care must be taken to prevent
an unsightly build-up of wax residue in cuts and
impressions. Listed below are a few ways to safely
remove the residue if it does occur:
1) Try to remove the residue by rubbing briskly
with sheep wool. This method works best if
the fnish is still wet.
2) If the wool does not remove all of the residue,
scrub affected areas with a soft, fne bristled
tooth brush. Clean up and buff with sheep
wool.
3) If wax residue still remains in cuts and
impressions after trying Steps 1 and 2,try
warming np the wax using a hair dryer set
on low heat. In most cases, this will re-Iiquify
the wax enough allowing Steps 1 and 2to work.
CAUTION: Use a low or no-heat setting only!
A high-heat setting may damage the leather.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
TOP FINISHES
This piece shows a base coat of Fiebing alcohol based
Leather Dye, Fiebing's Antique (paste) and Fiebing:
Leather Sheen top fnish. Tooled by Tony Lier &colored
by Philip Smith. (Photo courtesy of Steel Strike Leather
ProduCls, Inc.)
TIP: Make eyes come alive
by using a high gloss top
finish, such as Leather
Sheen, instead of painting
white spots on the eyes.
FIEBING'S
LEATHER SHEEN
(LIQUID VS.
AEROSOL SPRAY)
Fiebing's Leather Sheen is available in liquid form
and as an aerosol spray and are very different in
application and result. Both are acrylic, wax top
fnishes but that is where the similarity ends. The
aerosol version is best used for providing a quick
and high gloss shine. The liquid version is preferred
if an acrylic seal is desired over the top of your
colored leather project. The liquid version will
provide a more water resistant finish.
FIEBING'S SADDLE LAC
A clear, quick drying lacquer fnish in an
aerosol can. Saddle Lac dries glossy and hard
yet fexes without cracking. Apply to your
project when completely dry by holding the
can o inches fom the surface and spraying
lightly. Saddle Lac may be used as a resist
for Sheridan Style coloring as shown
on page 16.
Designed, tooled and colored by Tony Laier this J dimensional picture
shows the use of Fie bing :Alcohol Based Dyes applied with a red sable
brush. Leather Sheen top finish, both liquid and aerosol, were used for
the final seal on the individual pieces before assembly. Leather Sheen
liquid applied with a brush works best for detail pieces, while spray is
easier to use for an even overall background coverage.
^

FIEBING'S ACRYLIC RESOLENE

A fexible, durable, water resistant acrylic top fnish
for dyed, antiqued or polished leathers. The surface
of your item should be dry and clean before applyig
Resolene. If you are spraying, spray one light coat
and let dry. If using an applicator, use a damp sponge
in long strokes once over to prevent tacky build up.
Resolene may also be used over Fiebing's Edge Dye
for a durable top fnish.
Copyright 2008Fiebing Company. PlIrghts reserved
TOP FINISHES
SHERIDAN STYLE COLORING USING OVERAll TOP FINISH RESIST
) Optional: After all tooling is completed, add a very light coat
of Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil. This helps replenish oils lost in the
casing and tooling processes.
3) Apply a liberal coat of Fiebing's Sheridan Brown Antique
Finish or other color. Mix colors for different hues. Use a sheep
wool applicator. Work antique down into all cuts and
impressions. Remove excess antique with clean pieces of sheep
wool using long straight strokes (not circular) to keep as much
antique down in cuts and impressions as possible.
2) Apply a coat of Fiebing's Tan Kote, Leather Sheen, Saddle-Lac,
Resolenc or other top fnish to act as a resist. (NOTE: Use Tan
Kate or Bag Kote as a resist on saddles.) Allow to dry completely.
4) After all excess antique has been removed, leaving desired
antique in cuts and impressions, allow project to dry
completely. Then buff with a clean piece of sheep wool.
5) Apply Fiebing's Tan-Kote as a fnal fnish. NOTE: Tan-Kote
will pick up some of the antique, so do not rub too hard while
applying. Buf to a mellow satin glow.
-
8W
M
WMW
.
FIEBING'S TAN-KOTE
Tan-Kote is a resin based, moisture resistant, easy to apply top fnish. It goes on smooth, even and streak free
leaving a soft, mellow satin fnish. Tan-Kote is a preferred finish for saddle makers because it allows the saddle
to be periodically cleaned and oiled. Tan-Kote is often used to thin down Fiebing's Antique Finish. Neutral can
be tinted different colors by mixing in small amounts of water based Fiebing's dye. Tan-Kote also brings out
and enhances carved and stamped designs. Apply an even coat with sheep wool, sponge, brush or sprayer. lf a
sprayer is used, thin with water. Always let dry between coats and always allow to dry completely.
FIEBING'S BAG KOTE
Bag Kote, another top finish preferred by saddle makers, will give a soft, satin fnish no other product can
achieve. Fiebing's Bag Kote was originally developed by John Ficbing over 6U years ago U a treatment for US
Mail Carrier's leather mail bags and remains unchanged to this day. Bag Kote may either be sprayed or applied
with a damp sponge, sheep wool or dauber. Bag Kote may be applied over natural or dyed leather. A thin coat
is all that is necessary. Bag Kote may be applied over natural or dyed leather. lt may be diluted with water up
to 2U%.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
EDG
jNAMI
ACK
(q/, 114^'
EDGE FINISHING
FIEBING'S EDGE ENAMEL
Edge Enamel is a heavy bodied, resin
based edge finish. To use, apply after
smoothing the edges to produce a clean,
smooth and glossy edge. Edge enamel
can be thinned with water.
FIEBING'S EDGE DYE
A penetrating edge fnish that is
durable and long lasting. Edge Dye
will dry to a semi-gloss and needs to
be applied to edges that have been
smoothed down. After it is applied,
Edge Dye can be polished, burnished
or fnished with Resolene.
APPLICATORS
FIEBING'S EDGE KOTE
Edge Kote dries water resistant with a fexible,
deep semi-gloss. Edge Kote is recommended
for use on nah1ral edges and can be thinned with
water. Always stir Edge Kote, never shake. If a
higher gloss is desired, allow to dry completely
and buff gently with a soft cloth.
FIEBING'S EDGE DYE
FINISH & APPLICATOR
A convenient, water resistant acrylic edge finish
that dries in minutes. Provides a quick and easy
professional fnish on the edges of belts, saddles
and other leather goods. lnve11 bottle and apply
evenly with attached sponge applicator.
Many types of applicators will work to apply edge dye or finish including the following: A small ( I long 7 3/4" wide 7 Ii2'
thick) square of thick dense felt or a small square of sponge held by a clothes pin. An applicator preferred by many professionals
is a wool dauber prepared by trimming to desired size. All of these applicators will work well with all edge dyes and fnishes.
APPLICATOR MACHINES
Various companies make different types of machines that apply edge finishes. These machines normally involve a wheel of some
type that rotates through a reservoir containing the edge fnish. Running a project over the wheel causes rotation which picks up
edge fnish from the reservoir and transfers it to the project's edge. All of the above Fiebing's edge finishes will work in most of
these types of machines.
SELECTING THE RIGHT EDGE TREATMENT APPLICATOR:
L

There are many options for Edge Treatment Applicators.

Some can be pmchased ready-made:
Small & large wool daubers
Sponges of all sizes
Sponge brush
Many leather workers prefer to make their own
applicators or modify the store bought variety as needed
for their individual projects.
Felt Daubers
Wool daubers trimmed to desired size
Rectangular felt on end of clothespin
Many options custom to the individual worker
Copyright 200SFiebing Compan). rights reserved
EDGE FINISHING
EDGE PREPARATION:
For more professional looking projects, preparing edges prior to the application of edge dyes or fnishes is essential.
The basic steps used to prepare an edge are:
) Round of square cut edges with an edge beveler
or bissonnette sized for the thickness of the
leather.
2) Use a sponge to lightly dampen the beveled edge
with water or Fiebing's Gum Tragacanth. NOTE:
Gum Tragacanth acts as a light resist or block. For
best results, apply after project has been antiqued
or stained.
3) Rub edge briskly with an edge slicker, bone folder
or piece of natural coarse canvas to compress the
fbers and burish the edges. If some fbers on the
edge refuse to lay down, remove them by
rubbing edge with a piece of very fne grit sand
paper. Then repeat Steps Z and J.
4) Apply your choice of edge dye or fnish using one
of the applicators described in this section.
LEATHER
EDGE BOTH SIDES OF LEATHER
NOTE: Edge dressings should
normally be applied after top fnishes.
Care should be taken to keep fnish
off slicked (burnished) edges of your
projects. If fnish gets on edge, sand
edge with a very fne grit sandpaper.
Then re-slick (burnish) edge and
apply edge dressing.
TIP: Lightly dampen edge with water before rounding
off with an edge beveler or bissonnette. The edger will
cut through the leather much easier and leave a smoother
surface in preparation for next step.
TIP: Dip applicator into edge dye or fnish and touch to a
piece of scrap leather or paper towel to remove excess. Use
quick, long light strokes to apply on edge. For best control
during application, lay project fat on work table with
edge of project overhanging the edge of table, if possible.
EDGE APPLICATOR OPTIONS:
1) DIFFERENT SIZED TRIMMED DAUBERS
2) FELT DAUBERS
J)SPONGE BRUSHES
4)SMALL PIECE OF FELT ON A CLOTHESPIN
CANVAS
TIP: Projects that
have multi-layers of
appliqued leather
will need to have
edges prepped for
dyeing before they are
assembled. A fnal top
finish is applied after all
pieces are assembled.
Fiebing's Fantastic Finisbes
APPLICATOR
(Dauber Shown)
LEATHER CARE
Oi lS: Many leather workers prefer to use oils (natural and compounds) on their leather projects, adding or replacing
oils lost in construction or with time, use and weathering. For best results, apply oils sparingly and allow to set. Then
apply more coats if necessar. The following products work especially well on Leather items that will be subjected to harsh
treatment and outdoor use.
FIEBING'S 100% PURE NEATSFOOT OIL
For smooth or tooled new leather or previously oiled with Fiebing's
Pure Neatsfoot Oil. Apply a light even coat, rubbing briskly with a soft
clean cloth. Allow oil to set and penetrate for 24hours. Apply additional
coats if necessary.
FIEBING'S PRIME NEATSFOOT OIL COMPOUND
A combination of natural and synthetic oils for softening, preserving
and waterproofing smooth leathers. Clean leather and apply oil allowing
to penetrate freely. Rub briskly with soft, dry cloth.
FIEBING'S MINK OIL PASTE
A natural by-product that softens, preserves and waterproofs all smooth
leather or vinyl. Best when used on medium to dark colored a1ticles.
Apply freely, working well into leather and wipe of excess. Helps
prevent salt stains.
FIEBING'S MINK OIL LIQUID
This blend of Mink Oil and !UU%Pure Neatsfoot Oil softens, preserves
and waterproofs smooth leather. Will darken light leather. Apply freely
and work into leather. Allow for absorption and then wipe off excess.
Pbotoo{sooJ|ecourtes,o{RickBeon
C 0 N D IT I 0 N E R S: The following leather conditioners were developed to replenish oils and waxes lost through
use and weathering. One contains a mild soap especially formulated for use on .ne and exotic leathers. The other was
created for leather items that receive hard use and are subject to harsh climates.
I
FIEBING'S 4-WAY CARE LEATHER CONDITIONER
A combination of oil and wax that I ) cleans, 2)conditions, 3) waterproofs and 4)replenishes the tanning oils in leather. 4Way
Care Leather Conditioner can also be used to clean fne leather including exotics because it contains leather soaps that float
out dirt and grime. Especially effective on leather upholstery including leather car seats. Use a clean cloth or sponge to spread
a thin coat on the leather. Allow to penetrate thoroughly, then rub briskly with a soft, dry cloth to clean and polish.
FIEBING'S AUSSIE LEATHER CONDITIONER
This product should be used after frst cleaning the leather article with Fiebing's Saddle Soap. Aussie Leather Conditioner was
developed for Australian horsemen living in harsh climates. It contains natural beeswax and is perfect for use on saddles, tack,
boot, gun cases, and handbags. Apply a light coat with a clean cloth. Allow product to penetrate. Buff of excess.
SOAPS: When leather needs more than just a conditioner, serious cleaners like these should be used. Keeping your
leather articles clean will prolong their life and restore the beaut ofthe leather.
FIEBING'S LIQUID
GLYCERINE SADDLE SOAP
For large, smooth articles that need to be cleaned, using
a spray will be easier than paste. Spray on a generous
amount. Rub thoroughly with sponge or brush until
foam disappears. After leather is dry, buff with cloth to
a rich, satin finish.
FIEBING'S SADDLE SOAP PASTE
This is Fiebing's signature product. It cleans @
leather and lubricates fbers to prevent brittleness,
while maintaining suppleness and strength.

Dampen cloth or sponge and rub lightly over

soap to produce lather. Apply to leather surface.
When dry. polish with soft cloth for light luster.
Copyright 2008Fiebing Comny. .rights reser ved
FIEBING'S
LEATHER
COLORS
See page 2
RED
LIGHT BROWN
FIEBING'S
INSTITUTIONAL
LEATHER DYE
See page 2
FIEBING'S
LEATHER DYE
See page 2
MAHOGANY
UGHT BROWN
LIGHT TAN
LIGHT BLUE
FIEBING'S
PROFESSIONAL
OIL DYE
See page ?
LIGHT BROWN
FIEBING'S
ACRYLIC DYE
See page 9
LlGHTBLUE
LLLLkLNPk1o
MAHOGANY
SADDLE TAN
RED
GREEN
RED
DARK BROWN
BEIGE
YELLOW
NAVY BLU
RED
SADDLE TAN
RED
BLUE
CORDOVAN CHOCOLATE DARK BROWN MEDIUM BROWN
YELLOW GREEN ROYAL BLUE
DARK BROW MEDIUM BROWN TA\

BLUE
OXBLOOD
CORDOVAN
TAN


W ,
KLI^GREEN
PURPLE
MAHOGANY
YELLOW
ORANGE
MEDIUM BROWN
BLACK
DARK R
CHOCOLATE
BRITISH TAN
GREEN
BLACK
CHOCOLATE
GREEN
YELLOW
DARK BROWN
Fiebing's Fantastic Finishes
BURGUNDY
MEDIUM BROWN
BUCKSKIN
AQUA GREEN
GREY
DARK BROWN
ROYAL BLUE
GREEN
BLACK
BLACK
YELLOW
MAROON
RUSSET
ORANGE
TURQUOISE
L
WHITE
WALNUT
BLACK
TURQUOISE
WJ

COMPATIBILITY CHART
Always test the compatibility of products before applying them to your leather piece.
CODES
A = YES - but fnish may pick up some color.
B YES - but be sure to remove excess ANTIQUE from surface before applying a fnish.
Allow antique to dry completely or finish may streak, crack and fake off.
C = NO on items that bend or fex. YES on items that will NOT be bent or fexed. / . '
* D YES - may be applied BEFORE or AFTER finish.
* E NO - may not be applied over fnish.
* NOTE: Edge dressings should normally be applied afer top fnishes. Care should be taken to keep
finish off slicked (burnished) edges. Ufinish gets on edge, sand edge with a very fe grit sandpaper.
Then re-slick (burnish) edge and apply edge dressing.
FIEBING'S DYES, FIEBING'S FINISHES:
STAINS, ANTIQUES: Leather Sheen Institutional Finish Resolene Saddle Lac Leather Balm w/Atom N Tan Kote Bag Kote Carnauba Cream
Leather Dye ^ ^ ^ yes ^ ^ ^ ^
Leather Color yes ^ ^ yes yes yes yes yes
Leather Stain ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
ImI. Oil Dye ^ ^ ^ yes ^ ^ ^ ^
Inst . Dye ^ ^ ^ yes ^ ^ ^ ^
Antique Leather Stain ^ ^ ^ yes ^ ^ ^ ^
Antique Finish ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ !
Hi-Liter ^ ^ ^ yes ^ ^ ^ L
Edge Enamel D D D E E D D E
Edge Kote
D D D D E D D E
Edge Dye
D E E D D D D D
Edge Dye Finish
D D D
w/Applicator
D E D D E
Copyr ight ?008Fiebing Company. Arights reserved