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W .1:

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NDAMENTALs]%0F PATTERNMAKING
j

&FOR

APPAREL

FOUNIJATION PATTERNS
by
ESTHER ,KAPLAN PNNICK

FUNDAMENTALS OF PATTERNMAKING
INDf{

WOMENS APPAREL
BOOK 1

FOUNDATION PATTERNS

by
ESTHER IKAPL/KN PIVNICK

514523
nnnwm commmm COLLEGE uammv
A

Copyright, 1955

PATTERN PUBLICATIONS
Cold Spring Harbor, N.Y.

Printed in the United States of America

PREVIOUS TITLES

"Principles and Problems of Patternmaking as Applied to Women's Apparel" Book I by Charles and Esther Kaplan Published by Streimin Studio, N.Y. Copyright, 1939

by Esther Kaplan Pivnick Published by W m . Wise & Co. , I n c . Copyright, 1949

" H o w to Design Beautiful Clothes"

, N.Y.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction

................................................................................................................

__ 1

Part I MEASUREMENTS ......................................................................................... 2

Lesson 1. Taking Measurements for the Front and Back Waist Drafts .. 3 .. 6 and _________________ Lesson 2. Taking Measurements for the Skirt Slacks Drafts Lesson 3. Taking Measurements for the Sleeve Draft ...................................... 3
.......

Part II DRAFTING THE BASIC PATTERNS

Lesson Lesson Lesson Lesson
4. The Front Waist Draft _____________________________________________________________________ 9 5. The Back Waist Draft .......................................................................13 6. The Skirt Draft ................................................................................. 16 7. Joining the Waist and Skirt Together ______________________________________________ 21 a. The Front .................................................................................... 2) b. The Back ......................................................................................... 23 Lesson 8. The Sleeve Draft ................................................................................ 24 Lesson 9. The Slacks Draft ................................................................................... 28 33 Lesson 10. The Culotte, or Divided Skirt Draft ..............................................__
._ _. _. _.

Part III DRAPING THE BASIC PATTERNS

Lesson Lesson Lesson Lesson

Lesson Lesson Lesson Lesson

The The 13. The 14. The

11. 12.

Front Waist Pattern ............................................................... Back Waist Pattern .................................................................. Front Skirt Pattern .................................................................... Back Skirt Pattern ......................................................................
_. ._

35

36
37 33

Part IV GRADING THE BASIC PATTERNS

15. The Basic Skirt Grade ..................................................................... 42 16. The Basic Waist Grade ................................................................. _ 45 17. The Basic Sleeve Grade ...................................................................__ 48 18. The Basic Slacks Grade ...................... __________________________________________ 51
_.
.

Part V THE MEASUREMENT CHARTS

---------------------------------- 54 . Misses Sizes .. b. Women's Sizes ------------------------------------------------------------------- -- 55 56 c. Halfsizes (ShorterWomen) .. _ . _ . . . 57 ... . _. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . _ _ _ __ d_

a.
E.

Juniors

, ,

LESSON 1

Taking Measurements for the Front and Back Waist Drafts.

FIG 1a
Figures 1a. lb, 1c.

FIG 16

FIG lc

The FULL \WAIST LENGTH measurement (AB) is taken from the joining of the neck and shoulder seams down to the waistline, approximately parallel to the center front. The CENTER WAIST LENGTH measurement (C-D) is taken from the base of the neckline down the center front to the waistline. The CROSS SHOULDERS \WIDTH measurement (E-C-F) is taken from the joining of the armscye and shoulder seams across the base of the neck. The CROSS CHEST WIDTH measurement (front) (G-H) is taken from armscye to armscye 1/2" below the base of the neck. The CROSS BACK WIDTH measurement (G-H) is taken 4" below the base of the neck. The NECK TO BUST POINT measurement (A-I) is taken from the joining of the neck and shoulder seams to the highest point of the bust. There is no corresponding back measurement. The BUST POINT TO BUST POINT measurement (I-]) is the distance across the center from between the highest points of the bust. There is no corresponding back measurement. 7a. The FULL (BACK) WIDTH measurement (K-L) is taken across the back from side seam to side seam at the base of the armscye.
1.

Figures 5A. 5B. ,%(I. 9. THE SH()Ul.DliR

H).

Sl.()Pl{ measurement (li-D)

center

is taken from the end of the

shoulder line at the armscyc to the

II.
I2.

front at the waistline.

The SH()UI.l)lR LENGTH measurement is the length of line E-A. The NECK BASE measurement (A-(I-O) is taken from the joining of the neck and shoulder seams around the base of the neck through the center front. The SHOULDER TO SIDE STEAM measurement (E-P-Q) is taken from the end of the shoulder, around the armscye for 5'/:'', to the side seam at the

waistline. 15. The ARMSCYE TO \XAIST measurement (K-Q) is taken along the side seam from the base of the armscye to the waistline. I4. The \YAlST measurement (Q-1)-R) is taken from side seam to side seam, usually through the middle of the tape.

u u
I

I
I

a n

aux

FIG 4

LESSON 5

Taking Measurements For The Sleeve Draft.

For a standard size, the sleeve measurements on the chart will .prove most satisfactory. The diiculty in taking the measurements on a human arm lies with

the underarm lengthmeasurement, and upperarm. width. It would be wise to check these personal measurements against the chart.

tea /I ' K ,1 z I,
4?
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Y

.
Figure
20.
21.

i167

I.

The

22.
25,

1 . f . ? 1 , " '1 . 1 .

24. The ELBOW WIDTH measurement (4-7) is taken around the entire elbow with the arm completely bent. 25. The WRIST WIDTH measurement (5-6) is taken around the entire wrist.

measurement (li-4-S) is taken from_ a bent elbow. the shoulder to the wrist over The UNDERARM LENGTH measurement (K-6. Figure 8) is taken from the armpit level used for the waist drafts to the wrist on a straight arm. The SHOULDER TO ELBOW LENGTH measurement (F.-4) is taken from t_he end of the shoulder line to the level of the elbow when the arm is bent. The UPPERARM WIDTH measurement (6-7) is taken around the entire arm at the armpit level with 1" additional ease,PLUS the e x t r a width added to the armscye in the waist drafts. (See page 9, Figurezi, line 15.) For example, if the upperarm width is ll'/.'. 1'' case, plus I./:'' added to the armscye in the waist draft, would make a total of 15/."'.

SHOULDER T0 WRIST LENGTH

PART II

DRAFTING THE BASIC PATTERNS

LESSON 4

THE FRONT WAIST DRAFT

measurements used for this draft are size 14 from the chart. The is the same for any size or any group of measurements. procedure All width measurements must be divided in half, since only a half pattern is drafted. The draft follows the same order as the taking of the measurements. The number of the measurement corresponds to the number on the draft and on the instructions below.

The

34

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34

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FIG 1

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Figure 1.
1. 2.

3. 4.
5.

6.

A-1 is the FULL WAIST LENGTH. A-2 is the CENTER WAIST LENGTH. A line is drawn through 2, any length, at right angles to the center front. 1-3 is one-half the CROSS-SHOULDERS WIDTH, drawn at right angles to A-1. 1-4 is one-half the CROSS-CHEST WIDTH. The lines from 3 and 4 are parallel to A-1. 1-5 is the NECK TO BUST POINT. 5-6 is one-half the BUST POINT TO BUST POINT width.

Figure 2.
7.

Figure 2 shows the working out of the curve of the bust measurement. 5-B is the 2" which locates the FULL FRONT WIDTH. 3-7 is ONE-HALF THE DIFFERENCE between the Bust Width and the Full Front Width. (If the bust width is 20'/2" and the full front width 19'/2", B-7 is /2.) B-7 is drawn at right angles to the center front. 7 and 5 are connected by a line which goes through 5. A square is placed so that one side rests on the line which goes from 7 through 5, and the other side goes through point 6. The line C-6 is drawn, extended through 6.

__

Figure 8.
The shoulder dart. The neck dart can be transferred to the shoulder. 7-N is the same measurement as L-M in Figure 4. N and 6 are connected. A short line is drawn at right angles from N to aid in drawing the new neckline. The new neckline is drawn from N to 2. This should measure exactly onehalf the neck base. The shoulder dart, 0-P-Q is the difference in length between the new shoulder line 6-N and the old shoulder line 6-7. The dart is 2/2-3 long and placed as desired on the shoulder.

Figure 9.
The curve of the shoulder line must be checked. The shoulder dart be folded in, placing line O-P on line Q-P. The dotted line shows the corrected shoulder line. Figure 10. The completed back waist pattern with shoulder dart.
must

4. Point 4 divides the Hip Line into its front and back lengths, tion of the side seam. 2-4 is one-half the total BACK HIP WIDTH. B-4 is one-half the total FRONT HIP WIDTH. 1-D is the same length as 2-4. C-D is the same length as B-4. D-4-E is the SIDE LENGTH. Connect A, E, and 3. E-5 is the depth at which the abdominal extension measurement is taken. 3-17 and A-G are the same lengths as E-5.

Connect G and 5 and F,

A
G

"N L

pQR

NE I 6
V 5 H

LKJ
3

ABDOM INAL T

EXTENSION
LINE

Li

HIP

7'

.5 0
E
A M
$53

T E

a
F R O

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:=
C

D
FIG 2

The Waist Darts. The Front Waistline. F-H is one-half the FRONT ABDOMINAL EXTENSION. 4-H-I is drawn from 4 through H to the waistline.

Figure 2.

17

A-0 is one part. A new center back line is drawn from 0 through 2 for the same length as line A-1'. Connect 8 and 1. P is the center of O-N. P-Q-R is two parts. Q-T, tne center line of the dart is parallel to 0-2. The dart is usually 5-6" long. The back waist darts may be divided differently if there is a center back
seam.

The Back Waistline. 7. One-half the BACK WAIST measurement line A-E. The difference is divided into four parts. E-N is one part. Connect N and 4.

is subtracted

from the length of

See Figure 8 in which P-R is only half the size and the center back and side seams have been shaped more to make up the dilierence. The center back line is now 2-U-8. The side seam line is now 4-V-9. The dart P-T-R, now being smaller, can be shorter. (It does not matter how the darts are divided, provided the waist measurement stays the same.) The back abdominal extension line is U-V. When the dart P-T-R is closed, U-V may be larger than the exact measurement. Correction should be left for the tting. It may be found best not to t this measurement exactly.

Figure 3. The curve of the back waistline must be checked after the dart P-T-R is folded by placing line P-T on R-T. The dotted line shows the corrected waistline. Figure 4. The completed Back Skirt pattern. Notches may be placed at points P, R, and 4. Figure 5. The curve of the front waistline must be checked after the dart J-M-I. is folded by placing line ]-M on L-M. The dotted line shows the corrected waistline.

19

_ _ _ ._ _ .* _

Figure 6. The completed Front Skirt pattern. The front skirt pattern has to be cut out of the draft and recopied on anmake other sheet of paper so that additional width may be added at the side seam to the. bottom sweep the same as the back. C-D is extended through point D so that C-D-W equals D-S of the back skirt. as Connect 4 and W, which line now has to be made the same length the back. 4-X is the same length as line 4-D. Connect X and D. The completed Front Skirt pattern is 5-C-D-X-4-H-6-L-J-3. line. The corner at H may be rounded o as shown by the dotted 4. Notches may be placed at points J, L, and
V

LKJ

I6

LKJ

73

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M
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6 E

FIG!

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O

X D
W
FIG 6

H35

LESSON 7

JOINING THE WAIST AND SKIRT TOGETHER

A. The Front. Figure 1. Figure la shows the front bodice of Figure 9. page 12. Figure lb shows the hip section of the front skirt of Figure 6, page 20. (The full skirt length or any length can be used of course. The procedure is the same.) The dart of the front waist (B-A-C) must be made equal to the skirt dart before the two can be joined together. Part of the bust dart must be shifted (E-F-G) away from the waistline to accomplish this. A-D is drawn from the apex of the bust dart (A) to any place on the shoulder line indicating where the surplus dart is going. (A-D may be drawn to any other part of the front the neckline, side seam, etc.)

I-'|Glb

Figure 2.
The front bodice pattern is cut in two on line B-A-D. The dart C-A-B is cut away. The two sections are placed together on another piece of paper so that they meet at point A and are spread at C and B the same amount as G-E of the skirt.

D-D opens automatically. The pattern pieces should be traced making a new pattern.

21

FIG 3

Figure 3.
The new front waist can now be joined to the skirt. The skirt dart is moved over to meet the waist dart.

Figure 4.
Figure 4 shows the onepiece pattern nished as far as the hip. F-H is drawn to show how the pattern can be divided in two parts for a french lining pattern or princess type pattern. The position of the seam line D-A-B-F-H can beany shape desired. D-A-C-F-H is drawn accordingly. As long as the proper amount of dart at D-A-D and A-C-F-B-A is removed, the shape of the princess line does not matter.

Figure 5.

Figure 5 shows the two parts of the pattern separated. The straight grain lines are usually drawn at right angles to the waistline.

B. The Back. Figure 6.

back skirt pattern of Figure 4, page 18, are shown joined together. If the two darts A-B-C and D-E-F do not meet, they should be brought
The back waist pattern of Figure 10, page 15, and the hip section of the

together. Figure 7.
The skirt dart D-E-F has been moved to meet the -waist dart. The pattern is now complete as a one-piece pattern. Lines G-B and E-] are drawn to show how the pattern can be divided in two parts for a french lining pattern or princess type pattern. The shoulder dart G-H-I must be redrawn so that point H rests on line G-B.

Figure 8. Figure 8 shows the two parts of the pattern separated. The straight grain lines are usually drawn at right angles to the waistline. The shape of the seam line can be changed as desired. As shown by the dotted lines, what is taken off the center section must be added to the side section.

FIG 8

HEIGHT A

OFCAP

A I

Ja
UPPER ARM

Ia

-2

4K

Kat

cl

oH
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--3

5;

li

wmsr -I net
4 K
K2.

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HA

Flea

0 H 3

1 _5_

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25

Figure 4. Shaping the cap. 12. The back cap line is drawn from A through ]a, outside the guide line about ./4", into Ka and 4. The front cap line is drawn from A through Ia, outside the guide line at Ha 15. for W, and into B. . Shaping the wrist. 6. at corner the 14. A curved line is drawn from L to N, eliminating The elbow fullness. 15. .5-O-F-5, the shaded area, represents the total elbow fullness. The amount of fullness (5-0) is the difference in length between lines 2-5-L and 4-S-M. This excess may be used as gathers at the elbow, pleats, or darts. Figure 5 shows off on either side of the elbow line.

J A I

The completed sleeve pattern.

Figure 5.

The measurement of the sleeve cap must be checked with the armscye into _ which the sleeve will be tted. The cap line must be larger than the armscye even when there is no shoulder pad, in order for the sleeve to t smoothly over the roundness of the top of the arm. 1-1/2" of cap fullness usually is all that is required, placed at the top of the sleeve. To keep the fullness in its proper place and to help set the sleeve into the armscye correctly, notches (P, T, Q) are placed on the sleeve and the cap corresponding to the notches on the armscye of the waist patern shoulder line.

waist armscye (H-B-6). I6. 4-! of the back cap of the sleeve equals H-B of lllcback waist armscye, Plus /5". B-Q of the front cap quals H-D of the front waist armscye, PLUS "s". (This extra /u" is allowed to avoid stretching the amscye when the sleeve is set in. P-R of the back cap equals B-6 of the back armscye. of the front cap equals D-9 of the front armscye. T is the center between R and S. I-T-S is the total cap fullness. I too much fullness is obtained, the height of the cap is shortened between & notches P and Q, or if too little, the height of the cap is increased, as own by the dotted lines in Figure 6. The exact amount of fullness necessary for a well-tted sleeve is best obned through a tting of the sleeve, in cloth, set into the armscye and ared on the person whose size it is.

Refer to Figure 9, page 12, for the front waist atmscye (H-D-9) and Figure 7, page 14, for the back

be changed into a loosely tted sleeve like a mans shirt thus shortening the height of the cap. Three cap heights are illustrated here. Type 1 is the cap in Figure 5. Type 3 is the extreme opposite a cap which is a straight line. This cap needs no fullness at all. The total armscye measurement is marked J half on each side of point A. The sleeve is very loose in the underarm, and usually is set into an armscye which is cut deeper and more oval than ulmal, or is even a straight line, as in a kimono. Type 2, halfway between, is more the usual type of "shirt" sleeve found in sports blouses. The cap here should have a little ease, about /2 to The underarm line can be drawn at any height desired. The shaping of the cap proceeds in the same manner, wherever it is located, described in Figures 2, 3, 4, S.
can

&ve by lengthening the underarm,

gure 7. The sleeve

27

LESSON 9

THE SLACKS DRAFT The discussion of measurements for skirts and slacks on page 6 should be referred to before beginning the draft. The measurements used in this draft (size 14 from the chart) are in the following order: 5. Abdominal Extension 12 Back length Waist (Front and Back) 6. 2. Hip (Front and Back) Crotch Length (Front and Back) 7. 3. Front Length 8. Knee Length 4. Side length 9. Bottom Width

The

8
:4

X CROTCH

Y LINE ,

..

,0

,c_\_,

it
r

the beginning draft looks like a oor length skirt. The instructions for both the skirt and slacks drafts are the same through Figure 2, page 17. The waist darts have been divided as in [Figures 7 and 8, page 20. THERE IS ONE EXCEPTION. NO NEW CENTER BACK LINE IS MADE. A-1 remains the center back line. 1. 7-F-B-W is the FRONT CROTCH LENGTH. 2. 8-U-2-X is the BACK CROTCH LENGTH. Connect X and W for the crotch line. Mark Y where the crotch line meets the side seam. 3. The front crotch line W-Y is divided into three parts as in-

way as the measurements being longer, skirt draft. The length

slacks draft begins in the same

KNEE

UNE

center front line 3-W-C. 4. The back crotch line X-Y is divided into two _ brackets. parts as indicated by the Y-X is extneded through X for the length of one part, or X-14 is one-half of X-Y. 5. The KNEE LENGTH line is drawn parallel to the bottom line at its appropriate distance from the waist line.
C

dicated by the brackets. 10-W, one part, is extended through W for its own length. That is, W-11 equals 10-W. 12-10-13 is the straight grain line of the front, drawn through point 10 and parallel to the

FIG I
28

09

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KNEE

LINE

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23

3 J

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FIG 2

19

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20

Figure 2.
6. X-15 of the back crotch line is the same length as W-10 of the front. The straight grain line of the back (1645-17) is drawn through 15 parallel to the center back line A-2-1. 7. The BOTTOM WIDTH measurement is divided into four parts, and marked off on line 1-D-C as follows: 17-18 is one part. 13-19 is one part. Connect Y and 18. Connect Y and 19.
V

8.

To complete the front: 19-C is extended through C so that 13-20 equals 19-13. Connect 11 and 20. Extend the knee line so that it meets 11-20. Mark the extension 21-22. The crotch curve is drawn from B to 11. The dotted line (which is /z\W-11) is drawn to help shape the Curve. 9. To complete the back: 17-25 equals 17-18. 24-25 equals 21-22. Connect 14, 25, and 25. This inseam line must be corrected so that it is the same length as the front. 23-25-26 equals 20-2241. The crotch curve is drawn from 2 to 26. The dotted line drawn to help shape the curve is the same length asin the front.

Figure 5.
The completed front slack pattern. 12-13 is the straight grain line or front crease line.

Figure 4.
The completed back slack pattern.

16-17 is the straight grain line or back crease line.

30

3
.

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\\V\\\\\\\\\ \

E H

I320
FIG 5

Figure 5. 10. To add a pleat to the front crease line: The front pattern is cut down the length of line 12-13, placed on a sheet of paper and spread any amount desired for the pleat depth at point 12, the points 13 remain together. The top edge of the pleat is the straight grain line. This draft makes an extremely tted slack. The crotch is high and needs the addition of a belt to the slacks to complete it. The bottom leg width can be any amount. The side seam can be moved more to the front if desired. However the side seam is placed, the legs should be drawn so that the straight grain line remains the exact center of each leg from the knee line to the bottom. If the side seam is moved more to the front it might be better to have the back bottom width measure more than the front. Figure 6.
Other types of short pants can be derived from the tted slack pattern by straightening the crotch curve. If the crotch line is straightened as in Type I, the center of the pants can be placed on a fold. (B-lla must equal B-11.) This is a tted brief, best in knitted fabrics. In Type II the position of the crotch makes the leg swing wider from the hip. (B-11a must equal B-11.) This is a looser tting short, suitable for underwear, orfor outerwear when an extremely tailored short is not desirable.

LJ

'

TYPE

TYPE 1]:

11,, 1

"

FIG 6

32

LESSON 10

THE CULOTTE, OR DIVIDED SKIRT DRAFT The culotte is a skirt with a crotch and leg allowance. The basic skirt pattern is used. For a discussion of crotch depth measurements, see page 6, Figure 5.
Figure 1. The Front Skirt. This is the same basic skirt pattern as Figure 6, page 20. 1. 3-7 is the Front Crotch The crotch line 7-8 is drawn parallei to the bottom XC. 2. 7-9 is one-third the hip line (-3. The crotch curve is drawn from B to 9. (Refer to the slacks draft for the drawing of the crotch curve.) 9-10 is parallel to 7-C. Connect C and .10.

LKJ

P R

H
M
A

9"
1'
ll

B
cam-cu

2
9
TCROTCH

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UNE8

V
V

X
FIG I
3. 0-7 is the Back

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no

s
FIG 2
18.

Figure 2. The Back Skirt. This is the same basic skirt pattern as Figure 4, page
The crotch line is drawn parallel to the bottom S-D. 4. 7-9 is one-half the hip line 2-4. The crotch curve is drawn from 2 to 9. 9-10 is parallel to 7-S.

CrotchDepth.

Connect 8 and

10.

33

Figure 5.

be added to the back leg to make the center back of the skirt hang absolutely straight, concealing the division. 5. The entire back pattern of Figure 2 is cut out. Linc S-7-2 is cut, leaving the pieces just barely joined at 2. The two pieces are spread at S (on a new sheet of paper) a minimum of two inches, and traced to make a new back skirt. This back is used with the front of Figure 1. Figures 4 and 5 show the culorte c u t short and a center front and back inverted pleat added, making a pleated short. The full length culotte can be pleated in the same way. The back pattern of Figure 3 should be used. N 6
More width
can

021
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ma

2
9

r...

B
7
FIG 4

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9

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Figure
4.

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6. The crotch section (B-7-9) is c u t away leaving the plain skirt. The amount of pleat width desired is added to the center front 3-B-7, as shown by the shaded section. The crotch section is added again to the new center front 3a-Ba-7a. Here the pleat has been made two inches deep when folded.
b

34

Four inches have been added from 3 to 3a to accomplish this. Line 3-B-7 is folded over to meet line 3a-Ba-7a and stitched down at least as far as B to make the pleat.

Figure 5. Figure 5 shows the back culotte with a pleat added in the same way.

PART III

DRAPING THE BASIC PATTERNS At this point the introduction should be read again. The draped waist and skirt patterns, if made on the same form from which the measurements were taken for the drafting of the basic patterns, should be the same" as the drafted patterns. The fabric used must be rmly woven, with good straight and cross grain lines. It is best to remove the selvages and draw a straight grain line with marking chalk or pencil and ruler. This marked line can then be pinned to the center lines of the dress form for greater accuracy. _ in as noted the discussion on the around measurements, 2, just page ridge the arm plate, to /2" below the plate at the side seam, is the armscye. Later, when the draped pattern is removed from the gure, the shoulder and cross chest widths may be made wider if desired, and the full width of the front increased at the armscye as in the drafts. The neckline may be marked /4 lower at the center front. The center of the waist tape is usually the waistline.
LESSON 11

The Front Waist Pattern. Figure 1. 1. 2. 3. 4. The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress form from the base of the neck to the waistline. The pins should be placed at the angle indicated in the illustration. 5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the cross width of the front so that it runs perpendicular to the center front, and is pinned at the armscye ridge. 6. The muslin is smoothed up the armscye to the shoulder and pinned. 7. The muslin is smoothed along the length of the shoulder to the neckline, and pinned. 8. A pin is placed at the center of the shoulder line to keep the entire chest area smoothly tted. A slight amount of fullness (no more than 3/16") should be present in the neckline from 7 to 1. The material must be slashed around the neckline as indicated before it will follow the curve of the neckline.

G l

35

9. The muslin is smoothed down around the armscye ridge to the underarm. A pin is placed /2" below the plate at the side seam. 10., 11. The material is smoothed down the side seam to the waist line and pinned along the side seam. The muslin should now t smoothly over the entire front except at the waistline where the excess material caused by the curve of the bust is present, waiting to be removed as a bust dart. 12. The waist dart is pinned to nothing at the highest point of the bust. An additional pin or two should be placed at the waistline. The material may be slashed below the waistline if necessary for it to lie smooth. All seam lines, armscye, and dart lines should be marked on the tting before it is removed. When the tting is taken off the gure, the pins are removed and the lines seam trued-up. That is, the straight lines are made straight with a ruler, and the curved lines are smoothly curved. Additional width at the armscye should be added as in Figure 4, page 11, of the front waist draft. Additional width at the shoulder and cross chest may be added at this time. The excess material around the seam lines should be cut away to normal
,

seam allowances.
LESSON 12

The Back Waist Pattern.

The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress form from the base of the neck to the waistline. The pins should be placed at the angle indicated in the illustration. 5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the cross width of the back so that it runs perpendicular to the center back, and is pinned at the armscye
1, 2, 5, 4.

Figure 2.

6. The muslin is smoothed up the armscye to the shoulder and pinned. 7. The muslin is smoothed a short way up the length of the shoulder and pinned. 8. The muslin is smoothed around the base of the neckline, slashed if necessary, and pinned at the shoulder. 9. The muslin is smoothed a short way down the length of the shoulder and
The excess material in the middle of the shoulder seam is pinned as a shoulder dart going oi? to nothing at the curve of the shoulder blade, or about 3" long. 10. The material is smoothed down around the armscye ridge to the underarm. A pin is placed /2" below the plate at the side seam. 11, 12. The material is smoothed down the side seam to the waist line and pinned

ridge.

pinned.

36

along the side seam. -The muslin should now t smoothly over the entire back except at the waistline where the excess material caused by the curve of the back toward the waistline is present, waiting to be removed as a waist dart. An additional pin or two should be placed at the waistline. The material may be slashed below the waistline if necessary for it to lie smoothly. 13. The waist dart is pinned to nothing about the level of the armscye, or lower. All seam lines should be marked on the tting before it is removed for trueing-up as described in the front waist pattern, page 36, instruction 12.

LESSON 13 The Front Skirt Pattern. Figure 3. Enough muslin must be used for the full length of the skirt although only the hip section needs to be draped. The rest of theskirt can more easily be drawn
'

at.

As described for the waist patterns, the selvages of the muslin should be removed and a new straight grain line drawn.

The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress form from the waistline to the bottom of theform. The pins should be placed at the angle indicated in the illustration, at the curve of the abdomen, the hip, f and the bottom. 5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the hip line so that it runs perpendicular to the center front, and is pinned at the side seam. 6. The muslin is smoothed up the side seam to the waistline and pinned. >' The muslin is smoothed a short way along the waistline and pinned. 8. From the center front the muslin is smoothed along the waistline pushing the excess material of the waist dart about % of the way toward the side seam. The waist dart is pinned to nothing at the curve of the abdomen, or about 3" long. All the seam lines and dart lines should be marked on the tting before it is removed and unpinnedp for completion. The front skirt cannot be completed before the back skirt is draped.
1,, 2, _3, 4.
7

LESSON 14 The Back Skirt Pattern. Figure 4. Enough muslin must be used for the full length of the skirt. Refer to the front skirt introduction, Figure 3, page 57. 1, 2, 3, 4. The muslin straight grain line is pinned to the center line of the dress form from the waistline to the bottom of the form, as in the front. 5. The cross grain of the muslin is smoothed across the hip line so that it runs perpendicular to the center back, and is pinned at the side seam.

FIG 4

38

6. The muslin is smoothed up the side seam to the waistline and pinned. 7. The muslin is smoothed along the waistline almost half way, and pinned. The skirt ts best if part of the waist dart is removed at the center back. The pins at points 1 and 2 should be removed. From point 3, the hipline, the muslin is smoothed up toward the waistline allowing the center back line to move away as illustrated by the shaded section. It will move away about /2", on the average. New points 1 and 2 are pinned. The center back line to the hip will now be off grain, temporarily. 8. The muslin is smoothed from the center back, along the waistline almost half way. The excess material for the back waist dart is pinned to nothing about 5-6" from the waistline. All the seam lines and dart lines should be marked on the tting before it is removed and unpinned for completion.

Figure 5.
Completing the back skirt pattern. The muslin tting is pressed, if necessary, and laidat. 9. The ORIGINAL center back line on the straight grain (the dotted line from 1 through 3) is extended for the length of the skirt by drawing on the muslin with pencil and ruler. Point 9 is. marked. 10. The hem line 9-10 is drawn at right angles to the center back and is the same width as the hipline 35. 10 is joined to 5. 11. A NEW center back line is drawn from the new points 1 and 2 through 3 for the same length as 3-9. Point 11 is marked. 11 is joined to 9. The back skirt is now 1-3-11-10-5-6-1. The new. center back line will be marked the straight grain line when the muslin pattern is traced in paper. The excels; material around the seam lines should now be cut away to normal seam allowances.
V

FIG 5
Figure 6.

FlG' 6

Completing the front skirt pattern. The muslin tting is pressed, if necessary, and laid at. The front line 1-3 is extended for the length of the skirt. Mark point 9. center 9. The hem line 10. 9-10 is drawn at right angles to the center front and is the same length as the hemline of the back 11-10. 10 is joined to 5. The excess material around the seam lines should now be cut away to normal seam allowances.
39

Figure 7.
All the muslin patterns should be repinned, or basted together, for a nal

tting.

The darts and seam lines should be folded inside so that the position of the seam lines can be more clearly seen. The sleeve pattern of Figure 5, page 26, should be cut in muslin, pinned together, and tted into the armscye. The completed half muslin tting should then he placed on the dress form for nal corrections. The hemline can be evened o as well. After all adjustments have been made, the tting is removed from the dress form, all corrections and notches marked, and the pins removed. The muslin pieces again should be pressed, if necessary. They can now be traced through to paper for permanent use. The tracing must be most carefully done, without stretching or twisting the muslin. All the lines must be carefully "trued-up" and checked.

FIG 7

40

PARTIV
GRMNGTHEBA$CPKTHmNS Grading is a method of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern without making it all over again. One size is used to make another size by moving the pattern the required amounts from a xed point. Size 12 can be used to make size 14, or size 10. Size 18 can Beused to make size 20 or size 16, etc. The measurements for grading are obtained from the measurement chart. are the dierences between the measurements for the various sizes, as for exThey the amount of increase or decrease in the length of the center front from ample, sizes 10 to 20. All width measurements are divided in half since only one-half the front or back is graded. If the difference in the front waist measurement from size 14 to 16 is 3/4", the grading measurement is 5/s". Since some of the grading measurements are as small as 1/ 16", the entire process must be carried out with the greatest accuracy. A sharp pointed, hard lead pencil must be used. The size graded must be cut out with great care and carefully checked before it is used to make the next size. An error of only 1/16" in one size will increase to /4" in four sizes. The grading here is shown for the size range 10-20. The method is the

same whatever the size range; only the measurements differ. Grading is easy to demonstrate but hard to explain on a written page. The skirt grade is shown rst because it is so simple. The method of marking the guide lines and shifting the pattern is the same however, whatever the part of the garment.

x v -9 2 : n

$|Z

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FIG I
41

LESSON 15
The Basic Skirt Grade.

Figure 1 shows the front skirt foundation pattern, size 14, as in Figure 6, page 20. The measurements in the broken arrows indicate the amount the pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16. The numbers in circles show the order followed in the grade. The waistline increases 5/9" in width. (The dart moves back 1/s", leaving /4" for the rest.) The hip line increases -73" in width. The side seam and hem line increases /s" in width and '/4" in length. The center front line increases '/4" in length.

3V4
Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn (in actual size) to accurate size 16. These lines must be exactly parallel to each other or exat each to and be made other, actly right angles sharp and line. We do not draw dots for points as indicated here. Nor are they numbered. These are here for emphasis and clarity. 1. The center front guide line is drawn any length. A line at right angles is drawn across the top, making point 1. 2. The dart line point 2 is drawn as two short lines '/s away from the center front guide line and exactly parallel to it. One line crosses the top line. The other is any place below it, marked just to help place the pattern more accurately. 5. The waist line point 3 is drawn ~/3" away from the center front guide line and exactly parallel to it, also as two short lines. 4. The hip line point 4 is the same line as 3 since the hip line increases ~/s" the same as the waistline. 5. The side seam and hem line point 5 is drawn '/4" below the top line and parallel to it to get the necessary increase in length, and width. Point 5 is located on the same lines as 3 and 4 because the hem line, too, increases 5/s" in width just as the waist line and hip line. 6. The center front line point 6 is marked where the hem line point 5 crosses the center front guide line, since it is on the same level as point 5, and increases /4" in length. Figure 3. Shifting the pattern to increase the size. The pattern should be turned so that the center front line runs horizontal or parallel to the edge of the table. It is easier to control the
make an
pattern that way.

|
3

TOP

LINE

0''

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1 2
-5

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FIG 2

42

TOP

Ll

When carefully cut om and checked, the size 16 pattern can be used to make size 18 by following exactly the same procedure.

Figure 5. Shifting the pattern to decrease the size. The movement of the pattern to decrease the size is exactly the reverse of the movement which increased it. In increasing the size, the pattern is moved away from the guide line, to the left of it, moving the side seam away from the center front, thus adding to the width. It is also moved down the center front guide line, from the top, to increase the length. In DECREASING the size of the pattern, the guide pattern is moved to the right of the guide line, bringing the side seam closer to the center front, thus decreasing the width. It is also moved up the center front guide, above the top line, to decrease the length. The width guide lines are marked here in the same order as in Figure 2, but in reverse position. The /s mark, point 2, is marked to the right of the center front guide line, as are points 3 and 4. The length guide lines are marked in reverse position above the top guide line. Point 6 is /4" ABOVE the top line point 1. Point 5 is /1" above the top line and ~/a" to the right of the center front guide line. Once the guide lines are correctly marked, the procedure is the same as described for Figures 3 and 4. A size 14 pattern is used to make a size 12, etc. The BACK SKIRT FOUNDATION PATTERN is graded in the same manner as the front.
"

LINE

GUIDE

F R O N T

-l:\bJ\0t
C E N T E R

FIG 5

44

LESSON 16

The Basic Waist Grade. Figiire 1 shows the front waist foundation pattern, size 14, as in 9, page 12. The measurements in the broken arrows indicate the Figure amount the pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16. The numbers in circles show the order followed in the grade. The grading procedure of the waist patterns is the same as that

of the skirt, but more complicated. Figure 1 should be studied carefully to make clear the amounts the pattern must be increased.

The neck line increases 1/16" in width and -1/16" in height.

'

The shoulder increases /s in length. The armscye increases 3/16" in length, and 3/16" in width. The side seam increases /s" in length. The waist line increases 5/3" in width. The center front increases '/4" in lengdi. The cross chest width increases 3/16". The full width of front increases -73". The waist dart moves back '/n" from the center front.

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3,

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5.

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below the top line. line and '/4' 6. The side seam point 6 is 5/8" away from the center front below the top line, or /s below point 5. 7. The center front length point 7 is W below point 1 on the center front

Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn (in actual size) to make an accurate size 16. These lines are drawn in the same way described for the skirt pattern, page 42, Figure 2. Point 1 where the center front guide line crosses the top line is the base of the neck line. The neck line point 2 is drawn 1/16" above the top line and 1/16" away from the center front guide line. 4. The shoulder and cross chest points 3 and 4 are drawn on the same line as point 2 but /s" away from line 2, or 3/16" away from the center front guide line. The armscye point 5 is drawn 3/3 from the center front guide line and '/a"

guide line.

45

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47

LESSON 17
The Basic Sleeve Grade.

further increase in the underarm length. The full width of the sleeve increases -?/a'', the increase being divided as indicated in the sleeve cap. The wrisrline increases /x" in width.

Figure 1 shows the sleeve foundation pattern, size 14, as in 5, Figure page 26. The measurements in the broken arrows indicate the amount the pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16. The numbers in circles show the order followed in the grade. The height of the sleeve cap increases 3/16". This increase is the total increase of the Full Length of the sleeve as there is no really

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GUIDE

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Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn (in actual size) to make an accurate size 16. These lines are drawn the same on each side of the straight grain guide line which is the rst drawn. The straight grain guide line is drawn longer than the full length of the sleeve. A top line is drawn at right angles to it for the top of the cap. 1. Point 1 where the straight grain guide line crosses the top line is the center of the sleeve cap. 3, 5. The full width of sleeve line 3-5 is drawn 3/16" below the top line. Point 5 is 3/16 from the straight grain guide line. Point 5 is 3/16" from the straight grain guide line. The distance from point 3 to Point 5 is 3/3". Z, 4. Line 2-4, marking approximately the level of the quarter marks of the sleeve cap is drawn midway between the top line and line 3-5. Point 2 is 1/16" from the straight grain guide line. Point 4 is 1/ 16" from the straight grain guide line. 7, 6. Points 7 and 6, for the wristline, are on line 3-5, since there is no increase in length for the underarm, and are 1/ 16" from the straight grain line on each side.
S

FIG: 2.
48

Figure 3. Shifting the pattern to increase the

size.
I

Z _

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

The size 14 sleeve pattern is placed on the guide lines so that the points 1 meet and the straight grain line of the sleeve rests on the straight grain guide line. A small portion of the top of the cap is drawn, including the center notch. The pattern is moved so that point I of the cap rests exactly on point 2 of the guide lines and the straight grain line rests on line 2. A small portion of the capline at point 2 is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point I of the cap rests exactly on point 5 of the guide lines and the straight grain line rests on line 3. A small portion of the cap line and underarm line at point 5 is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the cap rests exactly on point 4 of the guide lines and the straight grain line rests on line 4. A small portion of the cap line at point 4 is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the cap rests exactly on point 5 of the guide lines and the straight grain line rests on line 5. A small portion of the cap line and underarm line at point 5 is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point .1of the cap rests exactly on point 6 of the guide lines and the straight grain line rests on line 6. A small portion of the wrist and underarm lines at point 6 is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the cap rests exactly on point 7 of the guide lines and the straight grain line rests on line 7. A small portion of the wrist and underarm

3 ,,0.05
2
1 .

V L

5' W

S | ZE [ 6

\.t: \N

lines at point 7 is drawn.

49

1"-a-Ir 4The rest of the pattern must now be lled in to complete the new size 16 pattern. The size 14 pattern is used as a guide. a. The cap line between points 1 and 2 is lled in by placing point 1 of the size 14 pattern about 1/ 16" away from point 1 and moving the pattern until the cap line blends smoothly into the line at 2. Line 1-4 is done the same way. b. The cap line between points 3 and 2 is lled in by placing point 3 of the size 14 pattern about /s" away from point 3 and moving the pattern until the cap line blends smoothly into the line at 2. Line 5-4 is done the same way. c. The underarm line 3-7 is drawn by placing the size 14 sleeve underarm on points 3 and 7 and drawing the line. The same is done with points 5 and 6. d. The wrist line is drawn by centering the wrist line of the size 14 pattern between points 6 and 7 and blending the new line smoothly into the parts already drawn.

0'

Qjo-tr

_
.

Q03

01
FIG 4
Figure 5. Shifting the pattern to decrease the size. In the sleeve grade, the guide lines can remain the same, but the order of the shifting points changes. Figure 5 should be compared carefully with Figure 2. The order of the shifting points has been completely reversed. When the procedure described for Figure 3 is followed, with the guide lines marked as in Figure 5, the size of the pattern will be decreased to size 12.
50

O\\-9

FIG 5

LESSON 18
The Basic Slack.-;Grade (and Culotte).

as

Figure 1 shows the front slacks foundation pattern, size 14, 3, page 31. The measurements in the broken arrows indic a t e the amount the pattern must be increased to make the next size, or size 16. The nmbers in circles show the order followed in the grade. The grading of the pattern is similar to diat of the skirt. The increase in the crotch line makes the only difference. The CULOTTE gradeis the same as the slacks and the skirt combined. grades The crotch increases /s in width and '/4' in length. The waist line increases 5/3" in width. (The dart moves back /s", leaving /4" for the rest.) The hip line increases 5/3" in width. The outseam of the leg increases la in length. The bottom of the leg increases A in width. The inseam of the leg increases Vs" in length.

in Figure

5'5 43
CRUFCH

LINE 7 5

"
LINE

ems

FIG 2

mum

Figure 2 shows the guide lines that need to be drawn to make an accurate size 16. These lines are drawn in the same way described for the skirt pattern, page 42, Figure 2. 1. Point 1 where the crotch line meets the inseam guide line is the
2.

3.

4.
5,
7.

8.

9.

base of the crotch. The crotch line point. 2 is drawn /x away from the inseam guide line, and on a line parallel to it. The center front point 5 is drawn on a line parallel to the crotch line and AK above point 2. The dart line point 4 is drawn on the same line as point 3 and /s away from it, on a line parallel to the inseam guide line. 6. The waist and hip points 5, 6 are drawn on the same line as 3 and 5/13" away from it, on a line parallel to the inseam guide line. Point 7 is drawn where the crotch line crosses the line from S, 6. It is 3/s from point 2. The outseam of the leg point 8 is drawn /s" below the crotch line and 5/3 from the inseam guide line. The bottom of the leg point 9 is drawn on the same line as 8 and 1/s" from the inseam guide line (on the some line as 2, 3).

H6 l

SI

/5' Ti
Figure 3.. Shifting the pattern to increase the size. The shifting of the pattern following the guide points is the same as described for the skirt pattern, page 45. l. The inseam line of the size 14 slacks pattern is placed on the inseam guide line so that point 1 of the pattern rests on point 1 of the guide line. A small portion of the base of the crotch and inseam lines is marked. The pattern is moved so that point I of the pattern rests exactly on point 2 of the guide lines and the inseam line of the
pattern rests on line 3, 2, 9. A small section of the crotch line is marked at point 2. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests expattern rests on line 3, 2, 9.

3\

T6
SIZE I6

2%

actly on point 3 of the guide lines and the inseam line of the

waistline. The end of the dart must be marked too. 5, 6. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests exactly on points 5, 6 of the guide lines and the inseam line of the pattern rests on line 5, 7. A small portion of the waistline is marked at 5, continuing down the side seam to the hip notch 6. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests exactly on point 7 of the guide lines and the inseam line of the pattern rests on line 5, 7. A small section of the side seam at the notch 7 is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests exactly on point 8 of the guide lines and the inseam line of the pattern rests on line 8. A small section of the side seam and bottom line is drawn. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests exactly on point 9 of the guide lines and the inseam line of the pattern rests on line 3, 2, 9. A small section of the bottom and inseam lines is drawn.

A small portion of the center front and waist lines is marked. The pattern is moved so that point 1 of the pattern rests exactly on point 4 of the guide lines, and the inseam line of the pattern rests on the line from 4. The dart notches are marked as well as a small portion of the

FIG 3

52

Figure 4.
The new pattern size 16 is completed by using the size 14 patas a guide, centering it between the newly marked points, and drawing the complete lines, as described on page 43 for the skirt pattern.
tern

--7

SIZE

FIG 5
Figure 5. Shifting the pattern to decrease the size. The movement of the pattern is completely reversed for desize as discussed on page 44 for the skirt pattern. Figure 5 the creasing shows how the guide lines and points look to decrease the size of the
The BACK SLACKS FOUNDATION PATTERN is graded in the same way as the front EXCEPT FOR THE CROTCH WIDTH
measurement.

pattern.

The crotch increases 3/16" in width.

%_*
I

4-4-

. Figure 6 shows how the guide lines look for increasing the size of the back slacks pattern. Note the distance from point 1 to 2 is 3/16. The rest of the measurements are the same as in Figure 2.

rue 6

FIG 4

53

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About the author

. . ..

a deEsther Pivniek was graduated from Brooklyn College tnined to teach Biology, but the country was deep in For want of work, she spent the summer helping her pression in 1935, and New York City needed no teachers. father write his rst text book on patternmaking, (Charles Kaplan was then chainnan of the Women's Garment He had been the rst garment design teacher in Design Department of the Central High School of Needle Tiades. the New York City schools and laid the foundations for all subsequent teaching in the eld.)

The work proved fascinating and Mrs. Pivnicl: began her career, tearhing patternmalring at the Traphagen School of Fashion in New York City. writing additional books, and working on "Seventh Avenue" as a patternmalret, assistant designer and assistant in production, one of the few women so employed in the dress industry
She is currently working for a well-known Sportswear conrern in New York City.

varied experiences provide a unique background for the writing of a text which is simple, yet practical, suitable for the classroom as well as {or professional use.
Her long,