Presented by T. Srivani, Asst. Prof., FP.

In textile and clothing manufacture, a wide range of

yarns is used, from coarse to very fine.

The appearance and the properties of fabrics are

influenced by the fineness of the yarns.

Yarn fineness is indicated by a number which is based on

The relationship between weight and length.

This method of expressing fineness is called

YARN NUMBERING or YARN SIZE
Linear density and its effect on yarn diameter

The relationship between unit length and weight

also reflects the diameter or thickness of a yarn.

A yarn of low weight per unit of length would be finer

Than a yarn with higher weight per equal unit of length.

The diameter of the yarn may vary for any given yarn
number because of differences in the specific gravity of
the fibres from which yarns are made.
There are two main yarn numbering systems in use.

They are Denier system used for filament yarns and

Yarn Count system used for spun yarns

A third system known as Tex system was developed to

bring all yarn numbering systems in to a single system
for all types of yarns but is not successful.

The metric yarn-count system is used in international trade

and many countries of the world for all spun yarns.
 Numbering Systems
Direct Systems Indirect Systems
Number of mass units per unit of Number of length units per unit
length of mass
titre tex titre denier Metric Number English Number
Tt Td (den) Nm cotton Nec
Mass in grams (g) Mass in grams (g) Length in meters Length in hanks*
Length =1km Length=9km Mass=1gram (g) Mass=1pound(lb*)

titre = linear density

1 hank= 840 yards, 1 yard=91.44cm
1lb=454 g
Tex System (Tt)

The tex system is the only one which is

internationally standardised.

Tex is the mass of the yarn per km of its length

The unit g/km has been given the name tex

20 tex means 1km of yarn has a mass of 20g

50 tex means 1km of yarn has a mass of 50g

Tt (tex) = mass (g) / length (km)

The finer the yarn, the smaller the number.
Denier (td)

Denier was originally used for silk yarn numbering but

is now applied to all filament yarns

Td is the mass (g) of 9km yarn.

Td 12 means that 9 km of yarn has a mass of 12g.

Td = 9 x mass (g) / length (km)

The finer the yarn, the smaller the number.
Metric Number (Nm)
The metric number is the length in meters of 1 gram of yarn

Nm = length (m) / mass (g)

= length (km)/mass (kg)
The finer the yarn, larger the number.

Nm 40 means that 40 m of yarn has a mass of 1g

Nm 100 means that 100m of yarn has a mass of 1g
English Number, Cotton (Nec)

The English cotton number is the number of hanks,

each of 840 yards, per pound (lb) of yarn

Nec = length (hanks) /mass (pounds)

The finer the yarn, larger the number.
Conversions
Nm =1.69336 x Ne

Nm =1000/tex

Ne=0.590541 x Nm

Ne =590.541/tex =1000/Nm

tex=590.541/Ne
Filament yarns are sold by indicating the number of
filaments the yarn contains, and the twist as well as
the denier size.

For Ex: a 300-10-1/2 Z filament yarn indicates a yarn of

300 denier in size, containing 10 filaments with ½ tpi of
Z twist.

Each filament in the yarn would be of 30 denier.

Spun yarn count:

Yarn number of spun yarns differs by fibre content.

Cotton and cotton-blend yarns are expressed by two no’s.

100% cotton indicates the single’s count

50/1 means a size-50 single yarn.

Cotton blend indicates the cotton ply.

60/2 means a size-60 2ply
.
Worsted yarns are indicated in the reverse order.
1/50 indicates a single yarn of 50-count size.

Woolen yarns are designated by the term run such as

4-run yarn. They are rarely plied and are single yarns
unless otherwise indicated.

Linen yarns are expresses by the term lea, such as

50 lea or 130 lea yarn.
They are never plied and are single yarns
unless otherwise indicated.

Spun yarns are also expressed in Metric system

Several classifications are used for determining
yarn counts. These classifications are called yarn
count standards and are different for each fibre
spinning system.

The yarn count standard represents the number of

yards in one pound of a N1 Count of that specific
yarn
The following standards are in general use.

Cotton and cotton blends 840

Spun silk and all spun 100% 840

Manufactured fibre yarns except acrylic

Worsted and worsted blends and acrylic 560

Woolen and woolen blends (run) 1600

Linen (lea) 300

All spun yarns (metric) 496.055

Ply yarn counts and Singles Equivalent

Spun yarns that are plied are expressed as 40/2.

This means that two yarns of 40/1 each have been
Twisted together.

The singles equivalent of a 50/2 is 25 count and of a

45/3 is 15 count.

Filament yarns if plied the usual method of expressing

two-ply 40 denier yarn would be 80 denier.
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are
engineered and designed to pass through a sewing
machine rapidly, to form a stitch efficiently, and to
function while in a sewn product without breaking or
becoming distorted for at least the useful life of the
product.

The performance of sewing threads depends on

proper thread selection for specified fabric and seam
type used.
Fibres used for sewing threads are

Cotton is a major fibre used because of its low cost and

high versatility

Nylon and Polyester

Rayon is used primarily for embroidery or

fancy stitch work rather than for seaming
Types of threads

Sewing threads may be of spun, filament or core spun

type.

All sewing threads are ply yarns

Sewing threads are more highly twisted and firmer

than regular yarns and are often treated with
Special finishes or lubricants to improve sew ability
Spun threads

Lower strength than filaments

Most versatile – adaptable to a wide variety of

machine adjustment conditions

Less likely than filament thread to cause seam pucker

Less costly
Filament threads

Higher strength than spun

Permits use of finer yarn without compromise for strength

Produces neatest seams

Careful machine adjustments necessary

Greater possibility of seam pucker

Costly than spun thread, texture filament threads for knits

Core spun threads

Combines the best features of spun and filament threads

Useful in seaming durable press garments (resin coated)

Most Costly

Same seam puckering tendency as spun threads

Reduce heat generated during high speed sewing

Sewing thread finishes

Sewing threads are produced with various finishes

Such as
•Mercerized
•Soft
•Glace and
•Bonded

In addition to the above, special finishes are also given

which include,

Flame resistant and

Heat resistant
Mercerized sewing threads

Description: Treated cotton thread that is stronger

more lustrous, more stable than soft finished
threads

Sewing Properties and Uses:

Increased tensile strength

lustrous appearance and brighter shades
Better sew ability than soft threads
More costly and used in premium products
Soft finish sewing threads

Description: Natural cotton thread without finishes that

appears somewhat fuzzy.

Small amount of lubricant sometimes added

to improve sew ability

Sewing Properties and Uses:

Excellent sew ability, lowest cost.

Glace finished sewing threads

Description: Highly polished cotton thread that is difficult

to unravel.

The polish and finish are obtained with

waxes and starches

Sewing Properties and Uses:

Strongest cotton threads

Rarely used in apparel
Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage,
Canvas goods and similar applications.
Bonded sewing threads

Description: Applied to threads of manufactured fibres

both filament and spun

Waxes and resins produce high polish,

eliminate fuzz, bond together filaments and
plied yarn and imparts smooth protective coating

Sewing Properties and Uses:

Increased strength and sew ability
used in apparel of heavy weight and coated
fabric

Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, tents

and heavy-duty applications.
Numbering of Sewing Threads

Unfortunately there is no coherent and rationalized

system of numbering for sewing threads.

Sizes (weight per unit length) of thread are mostly

marketed and expresses with their Tex number
Designation.

Threads made from silk, man made fibres and

wrapped yarns are usually designated by metric
number (Nm 70/3; Nm 80/3; Nm 120/3; Nm
120/2).
If the number of components is not given, then it is
always the most common, three-ply yarn.

With cotton threads, the English number is used.

(Nec 50/3; Nec 40/3)

The number of components often is not given but

usually is 3. If it is not 3, then the yarn number given
is chosen so that division by 3 will give the number of
The single yarn component.

Ticket Number System: older method for sewing

threads based on count and denier systems.
Ticket Number is based on greige or unfinished thread
rather than finished thread.

Ticket number in filament threads is based on denier

Designation except that the last digit is deleted.
A 230 denier thread would be labeled size 23 or TN 23.

Mercerized cotton thread sizes are designated by a

letter symbol system rather than numerical sizes
Finest mercerized threads- 00000
The coarsest are size F.
The weight and diameter of the un mercerized spun
thread is indicated by a ticket number.

This number is equal to the yarn count of the thread

based upon a three ply cotton count yarn since
originally all threads were made 3 ply.

Ex: 30/3 yarn, if it is a thread, would have a TN of 30

Ticket Number system is indirect.

So, 40TN is lighter and thinner than 30TN.
Threads were also made with other plies like 2ply for
cheap threads and 6ply for more prominent.

Therefore, the designation also included number of ply

along with ticket number.

Ex: Thread with 36TN and if made 4ply is indicated as

36/4 expressed as 36TN and 4ply.

Thus the TN36/4 = TN36/3=TN36/2

All threads with same TN will have same weight and

diameter and so will fit the same sewing needle.
The single yarns used for TN36/4 are finer than the yarns
used in 36/2

A deviation in the designation of ticket number occurs

with threads finer than 40.

Ex: for a thread size of 50, the TN is really 45.

for a thread size of 60, the TN is really 50
for a thread size of 70, the TN is really 60.

This is because the length of the thread decrease

due to the further twist given to singles for 3ply
The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
has developed a Ticket Number system based on Tex System
Which can be used for all types of threads

The Tex system of designating thread TN considers the

Rounded off Tex Number as Ticket Number.

Ex: If the Tex yarn number of the thread is 48,

the TN would be 45

Tex Number (Direct System) = weight in grams / 1000m of yarn.

(Lesser the count, finer the yarn)
Important factors in thread selection

Thread size should be as fine as possible and should be

consistent with the strength requirements of the seam

Finer threads require finer needles which causes

less fabric distortion

The breaking strength of the seams should be less than

that of the fabric (60% of the fabric strength)

Thread should have excellent fastness to colour change

The thread should not shrink as result of washing

Important thread factors that govern
seam appearance

Woven filament yarn fabrics – More puckering

Light weight fabrics – More puckering

Puckering of the seams can be eliminated through

awareness of following points like..

•Direction of seam
•Thread tension
•Stitches per inch
•Sewing machine adjustments
•Sewing machine operator skills
Sewing applications by thread size:
s
Fine Tex Medium Tex
18-30 30-60

Blouses Aprons Jeans

Dresses Athletic wear Rain wear
Lingerie Caps Pants
Sleepwear Coats Shorts
Swimwear Draperies Wind breakers
Other light articles Foundation garments
Heavy Tex Extra Heavy Tex
60-105 105-135

Foot wear Decorative stitching

Golf bags Bold Design Look
Luggage
Over coats
Parkas
Protective Clothing
Work Wear
 Sewing threads as available in the market:

1. Bonded Thread (including bonded Nylon 66 and 6 and

Bonded Polyester Thread)
210D/2 ,210D/3 ,210D/4, 280D/3,420D/3,630D/3,840D/3...
1000M/cone.....3000M/cone...

2. Nylon Thread,
138D/2,138D/3,210D/2,210D/3,420D/3,630D/3,840D/3.

3. High Tenacity Polyester Thread,

150D/3 ,210D/2,210D/3,250D/2,250D/3,300D/3

4. 100% Rayon Embroidery Thread,

1000M/cone ....5000M/cone ......
75D/2,120D/2,150D/2,250D/2,300D/3,300d/2x3..
5. 100% Polyester Embroidery Thread,
120D/2 ,150D/2

6. 100% Spun Polyester Sewing Thread

20s/2, 20s/3,20s/4,30s/3,40s/2,50s/2,60s/2....

7. Metallic Yarn
For the use of lace ,underwear and outwear
125G/cone ....

8. Knitting Yarn
150D/1 ,150D/2 . 300D/1
1kg/cone /0.5kg/cone