QlNN b Company

School Needlework
A
Course of Study in Sewing designed

for use

in

Schools

OLIVE
Teacher of Sewing

C.
in

HAPGOOD
Boston Public Schools

" Learn the sound qualities of all useful stuffs, and make everything and then, every day, make of the best you can get, whatever its />r ice. some little piece of useful clothing, sewn with your own fingers as strojigly as it can be stitched ; and embroider it or otherwise beautify it moderately withftie needletuork, such as a girl may be proud of having do7iey
. . .

John Ruskin.

PUPIL'S EDITION

BOSTON,
1893

U.S.A.

GINN & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS

^7

S r

VJ

.0

\ft"

Copyright,

1892,

By OLIVE

C.

HAPGOOD.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

(Sinn Company Cbe Htbenaeum press

.tSoston

PREFACE.

The importance of instruction in sewing in the Public As manual training School is now generally recognized.
comes
into greater prominence,

new methods and

was
felt

helps

are necessary.

The demand
is

for these

by the

author, and this book

in the class-room.

the result of practical experience

Its

purpose

is

to assist both teacher

and pupil
reference,

lightening the

teacher's

labors

by

saving-

constant repetition, and giving the pupil a manual for

with the hope that the information thus aclife.

quired will assist in fitting her for the duties of

Simplicity with completeness has been the aim throughout.

In the teacher's edition, the work

is

further supple-

mented by practical hints and suggestions as to successful methods of teaching the lessons, and by courses of study
on
Kindergarten,
Primary, and
of

Industrial

Sewing.
for a

It

also contains a

list

articles obtainable

sewing

cabinet, and talks on kindred subjects.

The author wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to the teachers who have so kindly assisted her, and to members of the School Board for their advice and interest
in the preparation of the work.

CONTENTS.

PART
General Suggestions

I.

PAGE.
-

PART
Plain Sewing
-

II.

13

PART
Ornamental Stitches
-

III.
*

115

PART

IV.

Drafting, Cutting, and Making Garments

129

Index-

...

161

PART

GENERAL DIRECTIONS.
Dear Girls
sewing, which
:

You have now become

;

old
is

enough

to

prepare for woman's duties

one of these

the art of

we

will take

up as simply as possible.

By

following the given directions carefully, you will

become

able to dress your dolls, assist your mothers in mending,

make garments, fancy

articles, etc.

A
a

convenient outfit for your school sewing consists of

bag large enough to hold certain necessary materials and the garment to be made. The bag should be made of dark or medium-colored cloth, so that it may not soil easily, and should have a strong gathering tape.
Half a yard of i The following articles are needed. bleached or half-bleached cotton cloth for a trial-piece
.

and sample work.

2.

Spools of white cotton, Nos. 40-80, also one of No.

50 colored cotton for basting.

3.

well-fitting

silver

or celluloid

thimble,

for

the

second finger of the right hand.

4.

An emery

bag

to brighten the needle,

when

it

does

not go through the cloth easily.

5.

6.
7.

8.

A A A A

paper of Nos. 5-10 ground-down needles.

pinball well filled with small pins.

tape measure.
piece of wax.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
9.

pair of scissors, for girls in the higher classes.

Your name should be written with ink on the

paper of needles, spools of thread, and sample cloth.
easy way
to

bag,

An
first

remember the necessary

;

articles

is

to let the
;

hand represent the cloth

finger, the spools of cotton

the thumb, the bag

;

the

the second finger, the thimble

;

and emery bag

and the fourth

the third finger, the needles and pins

finger, the tape

measure and wax.

Directions for putting

away

the work.

Before fold-

ing the work, run the needle in and out of the cloth, near
the last stitches, so as to keep
it

secure and aid in finding

the place at the next sewing lesson.

2.

To

fold the work,

smooth

it

out, fold
;

it

lengthwise
it

and narrow enough to go into the bag

opposite way.
3.

then fold

the

Put the thimble into the bag

first,

as

it is

apt to be

forgotten.
4.

After

all

the articles are placed in the bag, draw

it

up

closely.
5.

Wind

the tape tightly around the bag until about

it

six inches of
6.

are

left.

tape,
7.

hand over the coil of and wind once over the fingers and around the bag. As the fingers are withdrawn, slip the end of the
Place two fingers of the
left

tape through, and draw tightly.

If

the above directions are carefully observed, no

girl

should report any missing article at the next lesson.

Directions for sewing.

Be very

careful to have clean

hands.
2.

Sit in

an erect position, never resting any part of

the arm on the desk.

3.

Do

not fasten the work to the desk or knee.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
4.

Never sew without

it

a thimble, either the top or the

side of
5.

can be used.
not put the work or thread to the mouth, as
it.

Do

that will soil

6.

In plain sewing, begin to sew at

the end of

the

cloth, or at a in the left

7.

seam, holding the part of the work not saved hand.

scissors are not used, to break

When

the thread
;

place the left thumb-nail firmly over the last stitches

wind the thread around the right

8.

forefinger,

and break and

the thread with the right thumb-nail.

Do

all

sewing

nicely,

making the
care.

stitches small

even, having the

wrong

side look as neat as possible,

and

sewing the corners with great

9.

When

obliged to take out the stitches, use the eye

of a needle,

and pick out one

on one

stitch at a time
side,

in stitch-

ing, pick out the thread

10.

then on the other.

Before showing the work to the teacher, fasten the

the fleshy or soft part of the forefinger a

needle securely in the work.

We

will

call

sewing cushion.
What are the necessary articles for school sewing? Upon which finger is the thimble worn ? For what is an emery bag used ? Where should the needle be placed What should first be put into the bag? Why should before putting away the work? How should the bag be tied up carefully ? In what condition should the hands be ? Should the work be fastened to the desk or knee? a child sit while sewing?
Should you ever sew without a thimble ? Should the work or thread be put to the mouth? Why? In plain sewing where should you begin to sew? In which hand should the part of the work not sewed be held ? How should the thread be broken ? How ought all sewing to be done ? Where should great care be taken ? What is called the sewing cushion ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

NEEDLES AND THREAD.

Needles.

A needle

is

a small piece of steel, pointed at

at

one end, and having an eye

thread.

the other to receive a

Needles are of various

sizes

and shapes, according to

sewing on cotton
;

the uses for which they are intended.

Three kinds
cloth,

of needles are used in

sharps, ground-downs,
I,

and betweens

the sizes

range from No.

the largest, to No. 12, the smallest.

Sharps are long needles, ground-downs are shorter, and

Ground-downs are excellent for school use, as they do not bend or break easily. Betweens are used for heavy work. Worsted and darning needles are used for yarn, and are of different sizes. Worsted needles have a long eye, and either a sharp or a blunt point. A very long needle
betweens are
still

shorter.

is

used in millinery work.

is

bodkin or tape needle has a

long eye, and

casing.

used

for

running tape into a

hem

or

Let us examine our paper of needles.

so

It

is

assorted

we may have needles suitable for all kinds of stitches. To open it, place a finger between the folds of the paper and separate them. Now, opening the sides and short ends which cover the needles, we find twentyfive needles in a secure case. Keep them in their places so that we may know the proper size to use for the thread or stitch. Beginning at the middle, we find three No. 5
that

which should be used only with very coarse thread they are suitable for sewing on boot-buttons, etc. The needles on each side are alike, so following down one
needles,
;

NEEDLES AND THREAD.

side,

we

find
;

materials

two No. 6 needles, used for sewing on coarse next are three No. 7 needles, suitable for hem;

ming on

towels, etc.
;

then there are three No. 8 needles,

for stitching

next are two No. 9 needles, used in hemming cotton cloth and the last is a No. 10 needle, for
;

very fine work.

After taking out a needle, fold and

tie

up the paper so
needle, as
it

none may drop out. makes uneven stitches.

that
yourself.

Never use a bent

In passing a needle, hand the

eye of the needle to the person, keeping the point towards

Thread.
wool,
is

A small twist made from

flax, silk,

cotton, or

Thread made from flax is called linen thread, and is very strong. Thread made from silk is called silk or twist, and is used when sewing on nice textures. Cotton thread can be obtained in many numbers, and is used when sewing on wash goods the finer the thread, the higher the number. Thread made from wool is called yarn, worsted, zephyr, etc., and is used for darning, canvas-work, and fancy-work.
called thread.
;

new

spool of thread can be unfastened by slipping a

it is

pin under the thread, where

caught

in

the wood.

To

unwind the thread, hold the spool in the left hand, with the end of the thread between two fingers. Unwind the thread until it is of the required length. Break it by holding it securely in each hand, and snapping it across
the ends of the thumbs.
thread,

When
the

not using a spool of

keep the end of

thread

fastened

in

the

wood.

Use
a

a piece of thread the length of the desk, or about

as long as the arm.

When
If

using very fine thread, take

kinks,

shorter needleful.

the thread

remove the

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

draw the thread tightly between the thumb-nail and the end of the forefinger. To prevent thread from kinking, thread the needle with When using double the end that hangs from the spool. thread, as in gathering, sewing on buttons, etc., before making the knot, draw the double thread, beginning at
needle, and beginning at the work,

the needle, across the wax.

Threading the needle.

i.

Sit erect, bringing the needle

and thread as close to the eyes as necessary.

2.

Roll the end of the thread between the

it

thumb and

cushion of the forefinger, so as to twist

3.

tightly.

Hold the needle

steadily

between the thumb and

little

forefinger of the left hand, with the eye a

4.

above.

Take the end

of the thread

between the thumb and

of

forefinger of

the right

hand, letting about half-an-inch

the

protrude,
needle.
If

and put the thread through the eye

preferred, the thread can be held in the left hand,

of the needle passed over
it.

and the eye

To

aid in threading a round-eyed needle with worsted

or loosely twisted thread, a few fibres of cotton-batting or

a fine thread can be rolled over the end.

Waxing the
of the

end of the thread before rolling

Threading a long-eyed needle.

it,

is
1.

also helpful.

Hold the end

zephyr between the

half-an-inch to show.
2.

left

thumb and

forefinger, allowing

Place the pointed end of the needle on the cushion

of the forefinger,
3.

and over the zephyr.

left

With the

thumb
needle,

fold

the end of the zephyr

tightly over the needle.

4.

Withdraw the

and pass the eye

of

the

needle over the loop of zephyr.

NEEDLES AND THREAD.

Knots.

To make
it,

a knot, as in Fig.

wind the thread

around two or three ringers,

and crossing

put

the end

through the loop.

To bring a knot closs
end
the
of

the

thread.

to

the

~^T%^
//

jj

I.

With
Fig.
in
I

thumb and

forefinger of the

v&gg^ Showing
.

the thread

right hand,

take

hold of

the

a knot before

jt

is

drawn

U P'

thread a few inches from the end.

2.

Wind

the end around the forefinger of the left hand,

about midway of the finger-nail.

3.

Pressing tightly,
side
of

roll

the end of the thread down-

ward on the
twice.
4.

the

thumb, twisting

it

once or

Bring the second finger upon the thumb, and over

Lifting the forefinger, draw up the thread with the

the thread.
5-.

right hand.

The knot can

in the
silk

also be

made with

the right hand.

To fasten the thread in sewing, take two or three stitches

same

place, or
it

very securely as

sew back a few stitches.' is apt to work out.

it

Fasten

When
on white

learning to sew,
cloth, as
it

is

best to use colored thread

stitches plainer,

makes the

and miswill

takes are

more

easily seen.

For colored work, choose

it

thread or silk a shade darker than the material, as

work
The

lighter.

Twist

is

twirled the opposite

way from

cotton thread.

and thread to be used, depends upon the quality of the work. A coarse needle and thread
size of the needle

are used for coarse work, and a fine needle and thread for
fine work.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

The numbers

of

needles and thread needed for the

:

different kinds of stitches in cotton cloth

^ Tucking,
,
.

No. q needle, No. 70 or 80 thread.

)
^
_,

Running,
Stitching,

Overhanding,
Button-holes,

..

f
|

No. 8 needle, No. 50 or 60 thread.

Overcasting, J

No. 7 or 8 needle, No. 40 or 50 thread.

^1

Basting,

Gathering,

No. 7 or 8 needle, No. 36 or 40 thread.

__

What is a needle ? Why is an assorted paper of needles necessary ? Why should they be kept in their places in the paper ? Why should the paper of needles be kept How should a needle be passed to any one? What is thread? What is tied up? thread made from flax called ? What is thread made from silk called ? What is said
about cotton thread? broken from the spool

What
\

what should be done ? What is done to the end

thread made from wool called? How is thread long a piece of thread should be used ? If it kinks Which end of the thread should be put into the needle ?
is

How

of the thread before threading the needle

What

part of

the finger should the thread be wound around, in order to bring a knot close to the end of the thread? How many times should the thread be twisted, when rolling it down the side of the thumb ? What is the next thing to do ? Next ? How is thread

A fine should a coarse needle and thread be used? and thread should be used on cotton cloth for hemming? tucking? running? stitching? overhanding? overcasting? button-holes? basting? gathering?
fastened in sewing?
needle and thread
?

When

What

size needle

CLOTH.
Cloth
is
is

a fabric

woven from
are

cotton, wool, linen, or silk.

Cotton
price.

the cheapest, and silk the most expensive in

From

cotton

made many

qualities

of

un-

bleached, half-bleached, and bleached cloth, also calicoes,

ginghams, muslins, nainsooks, cambrics,

are

etc.

From wool

made

flannels, cashmeres,

Linen cloth is linen lawn to heavy canvas

goods.

and many varieties of dress made in all grades, from the finest
;

it

is

generally used

for

CLOTH.
collars, cuffs,
etc.

handkerchiefs, table-cloths, napkins, towels,

Silk

is

made

into

dress-silks,

ribbons, satins, vel(often called

vets, etc.

Soft, pliable, white cotton cloth

muslin) of
at
first.

medium

quality

is

best for a beginner to use

The
woof.

threads of the cloth are called the warp and the

The

threads running lengthwise are the warp,

those running across from selvedge to selvedge are the

woof ; both can be easily seen on a piece of coarse crash. The warp is usually stronger than the woof, and for this reason, any part of a garment requiring strength, should
be cut lengthwise of the cloth.
Cloth
is

woven

straight, but

is

sometimes drawn out

straight, or will
it

of

shape by pressing.
so after washing.
into place

When
If
it

you can ravel a thread the

it is

width or length of the cloth,

looks uneven,
it

become can be drawn

Calico,

by stretching

on the

bias.

when

torn, often looks very uneven,

and should be pulled into

shape.

The

selvedge of cloth
ravelled.

is

the finished lengthwise edge,

The raw edge is the edge that is cut or torn. A fold is the edge made by doubling one part of the cloth over the other. The nap is the shaggy
and cannot be
substance on the surface of the cloth.
cloth, cut in

To tear a piece of

one inch by a thread, then, holding a corner of the cut between the thumb and forefinger of each
hand,
roll

the edges from you, and tear steadily

a fine

piece of cloth must be torn carefully.

is cloth ? Name some kinds of cloth made from cotton from wool from from silk. What are the threads of the cloth running lengthwise of the goods called ? Those running across ? How can you tell when a piece of cotton cloth is straight ? If it looks uneven, how can it be drawn into shape ? What is the selvedge of cloth ? The raw edge ? What is a fold ? How should a piece of cloth be torn ?
;
;

What
;

linen

IO

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

SCISSORS AND CUTTING.

A
on

pair of

scissors

is

an instrument used for cutting,

consisting of two blades crossing each other, and

a pivot.

moving
called

Scissors are of

many

sizes.

Large scissors are

shears (Fig.

2, c) }

ami small scissors with the ends of the

pocket scissors (Fig.
2, (/),

blades rounded

are called

as

they are convenient to carry in the pocket.

the round

In shears,
is

bow

is

for the
;

thumb, and the oval bow

is

for

two

ot

the fingers

one blade
this

other,

and when cutting

more pointed than the blade should be held down-

Fig. 2.

.:.

Showing

lac
.

button-hole scissors -?ors; pocket scissors

/>.

ward.

In button-hole scissors

(Fig.

2.

b)

screw

is

attached to regulate the size of the button-hole.

When

passing scissors, hand the bows to the person, keeping

the point towards yourself.
In order to cut straight, draw out a thread of the cloth,

and cut along the

see page
1

line thus

made

(for

drawing a thread.
to

16).

In materials from which a thread cannot

it

be easily drawn, fold the cloth where

is

be

cut, pin

the selvedges together on each side, crease, and cut on

the crease.

In materials in which the threads are plainly

SCISSORS

AND

CUTTIN'C

marked, cither by plaids or

stripes, there
cloth.

is

no need of

drawing a thread or folding the

Fig. 3.

Showing a bias cut.

Fig. 4.

Showing an

exact bias cut.

To

cut bias, cut on a slanting line across both the

warp

and the woof.

To
fold.

cut an exact bias, lay the selvedge or a warp thread

of the cloth,

on a

line

with a woof thread, and cut on the

shears be held?
is

low should a pair of scissors? Name the different kinds of scissors. How can cloth be cut straight ? How can it be cut when a thread not easily drawn? How is an exact bias cut?

What

is

PART

II.

PLAIN SEWING.
Sewing
is

work dune with the needle and

1

thread.
pupil

The

following directions

should be before the

during class work.

14

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
DRILLS.
Drill No.
1.

-For
i.

practice

in

using

the

needle

and

thimble.
Materials.
Directions.

A needle and a thimble. Place the thimble on the second

finger

of the right hand.

2.

of

Hold the pointed end of the needle between the ^nd the thumb and forefinger of the right hand.
Place the thimble on the eye of the needle.

3.

Push the needle between the thumb and forefinger, being careful not to cramp the other fingers. With the left hand push the point back into its 5.
4.

former position.
6.

Repeat

until

it

can be done

easily.

Drill No. 2.

For practice
8 needle,

in

the motion of stitching,

hemming,

etc.

Materials.

-No.

No. 50 thread, and a strip

of

white cotton cloth.

Fig.

Showing
1
.

the work 'and hands

in

position.

Directions. 2.

Thread the needle, but make no knot.

Hold the

cloth over the forefinger of the left hand,

DRILLS.

15
finger, as

keeping

it

in place

with the

thumb and second

in Fig. 6.
3.

Hold the needle between the thumb and the

Insert the needle from
right to left, taking

fore-

finger of the right hand.

4.

up a

little of
5.

the cloth, and push the needle nearly through.

Take the pointed end of the needle between the thumb and cushion of the forefinger of the right hand.
6.

Draw

the needle and thread through, bringing the

thimble finger down near the forefinger, with the thread

passing between the third and
little
7.

little

fingers.

Keep

the

finger nearly straight to guide the thread.

Repeat

until the

motion

is

learned.

Drill No, 3.

For

practice in the motion of basting,

running, gathering, etc.

Materials.

-- No.

8 needle,

No. 50 thread, and a

strip

of cotton cloth.

Fig. 7

Showing the work

and hands

in

position

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Directions.

I.

Have

the needle threaded, but

make

no knot.
2.

Hold the

cloth between the

thumb and

forefinger

of each hand, as in Fig. 7.

3.

With the

right elbow

away from the

side,

put the

point of the needle through a few threads of the cloth,

placing the
4.

thumb and

forefinger of the right

hand over

it.

Pressing the end of the thimble against the eye of

the needle, take three or more stitches in the cloth over the cushion of the
joint.
5.

left

forefinger,

moving only the elbow

(Fig. 7.)

Draw
2.

the needle and thread through as in Drill

No.
6.

Repeat

until the

motion

is

learned.

Drill No. 4.

For
cloth.

practice in the motion of overcasting.

Materials. - - No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread,

and a folded

edge of cotton

Fig. 8.

Showing the work

1
.

and hand

in

position.

Directions.

--

Have

the needle threaded, but

make

no knot.

DRILLS.
2.

17

Hold the

fold of the cloth slanting across the

edge

of the cushion of the left forefinger,

keeping

it

in place

with the
3.

thumb and second

left

finger, as in Fig. 8.
fold, point-

Put the needle in from the back of the

it

ing
4.

towards the

shoulder.
in

Draw
2.

the needle and thread through as

Drill

No.

Drill No.

5.

For
cloth.

practice

in

the

motion of over-

handing.
Materials.

No.

8 needle, No. 50 thread,

and a folded

edge of cotton

Fig. 9.

Showing the work

1.

and hand

in

position.

Directions.

Have the needle

threaded, but

make no

knot.
2.

Hold the

fold of cloth

horizontally along the edge

of the cushion of the left forefinger,

of

and around the end

the finger, keeping

it

in

place with the

thumb and

second

finger, as in Fig. 9.

i8

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
3.

Hold the

right elbow

away from the

side,

without
is

bending the
towards you.
4.

wrist,

and so that the palm of the hand

Insert the needle from the back of the fold, pointit

ing
5.

directly towards the chest.

Draw
2.

the needle and thread through as in

Drill

No.

CANVAS-WORK.
The
stitches in

sewing can be easily learnt on canvas,

split

using bright-colored single or

the quality of the canvas.

zephyr, according to

CREASING AND PINCHING.

19

Fig. 10 represents a corner of a square of canvas, with

the stitches taken in the following order:

1.

Uneven

basting.

6.
7.

Catch-stitch.

2.
3.

Running.
Stitching.

Button-hole stitch.

8.

Darning.

4.
5.

Overcasting.

9.

The edges

are

worked with

Overhanding.

the blanket or loop-stitch.

CREASING AND PINCHING.

A
sew

crease for sewing

is

made by
is

folding the cloth, and

pressing the edge until a line

on.

made, which serves to

of

iMaterials.

ten-inch

strip

bleached
line

or

half-

bleached

cotton cloth.

(A more

distinct

can

be

made on
cloth.)

the bleached than on the half-bleached cotton

Fig. II.

Showing the
Hold the

position of the hands.

Creasing. - in Fisr.
1 1

I.

cloth firmly with the hands as

20
2.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Beginning
at the

upper right-hand end of the

cloth,

turn

down towards you

the edge one-fourth of an inch in

depth, for three or four inches.

Holding the cloth tightly between the hands, crease the edge with the end of the thumb-nail and the cushion of the left forefinger, until it will remain flat and has a
3.

sharp edge.
4.

Fold and crease the next three inches

in the

same

manner, and so continue to the end.

5.

Holding the right-hand corner

of the fold

firmly,

crease the entire length.

Pinching.

At

the right end of the crease, lay a

of the

half-inch fold
right hand.
2.
is

between the thumb and forefinger

this,

Lay another over

Pinch the
folds,

and so on,

until all the cloth

folded.
3.

and turn up the edge.

side of the cloth towards you, and
to

4.

Turn the other

the sharp edge will serve as a line

If

sew

on.
is

the cloth has been well creased, pinching

seldom

necessary.
What is a crease ? What purpose does it serve in sewing ? How should you hold the cloth in creasing? At which end should you begin? How is the edge turned? How is it creased? How should the edge of the fold look? After the After cloth has been once creased, what should be done to the entire length ?
turning up the edge, what should be done?

Why?

BASTING.

21

BASTING.
Basting
is

done by taking long stitches to keep the

8 needle, No. 50 colored thread, pins,

cloth in place for sewing.

Materials.

No.

and a half-yard
sides creased.

strip of cotton cloth, with

one of the long

v >^x\nWvA\I"'

WMfflfrfr%t*jM&mtlf!BlW'M6

Fig.

12.

Showing

even basting stitches, needle inserted.

In even basting,

make

the stitches short and alike on

is

both sides.

This method of basting

used for the seams

of a dress-waist, or for several thicknesses of cloth.

1
'

jf

m
uneven basting
stitches, needle in

Fig.

|3.

Showing

position.

In uneven basting, take stitches half-an-inch long on

the upper side, and as small as possible on the under side.

This

is

the proper

basting

for

ordinary work, as the

stitches serve for a guide in sewing.

22

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

The

basting, in Fig. 14,

is

done by taking one long

and two short stitches alternately.

Fig.

14.

Showing
in

needle

a method of basting used on heavy cloth, the proper position for putting away the work.

Basting,
1

Practise
at

Drill

No.

(page 15).
it

Make
Begin

a knot in the thread to hold

securely.

2.
3.

the right-hand side of the cloth.

Place the right-hand corners exactly together, hav-

ing the sharp edge of the crease towards you.

^.vjl** 5 **'

Fig.

15.

Showing

the needle

in

position for beginning.

4.

Insert the needle on the crease one-eighth of an

inch from the end of the cloth, and take up a few threads
(Fig. 15).
5.

Let the needle remain

in

the cloth, and pin the

opposite ends together, by placing a pin vertically through

the cloth.
6.

Put a pin in the middle vertically.

STITCHING.

23

7.

Draw

the needle through,

and proceed with the

basting required, holding the work as in Fig. 7 (page 15), taking each stitch on the crease, and keeping the edges
even.
8.

Fasten the thread securely by taking three or four

stitches in the

Suggestions.

same place. Never sew without

If

basting, or

when

the

sew without having the work basted, it will pucker, and must be ripped out. The short stitches on the under side keep the cloth in Take short basting place, and prevent it from slipping. stitches for hand work, but longer stitches may be taken for machine sewing. When learning to baste, only one
threads are loose.
a child tries to
stitch at a time should be taken, but later several stitches

can be taken before drawing the needle through.

threads should be taken out

Basting

when

the work

is

finished.

How are the stitches made in even basting ? For what even basting used? How should uneven basting stitches be taken? What is the first step in basting? Where begin? What should be done to the corners ? How must the edges be held ? Where do you insert the needle ? Before drawing it through, what should be done ? Where should each stitch be taken ? How should the thread be fastened ? What purpose do the short stitches on the under side serve ? When the work is finished, what should be done ?
is

How

basting done?

purpose

is

STITCHING.
done by taking a stitch backward on the upper side of the cloth, and a longer stitch forward on the under side, making the stitches meet.
Stitching
is

Materials.

yard strip of
Stitching.

No. cotton Practise

8 needle, No.

50 thread, and a half

cloth,

doubled and basted.

Drill

No. 2 (page

14).

24
1

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Make

a small knot in the thread.

of the left fore-

2.

Hold the work over the cushion

6 (page
14).

finger, as in Fig.
3.

Insert the needle at the right-hand corner of the

between the edges of the seam, one-eighth of an inch from the end, and one thread of the cloth below the
cloth,

basting.
4.
5.

Draw

the needle and thread through.

Put the point of the needle back a few threads from

cloth,

where the needle comes through the out the same distance beyond.
,

and bring

it

^a^^Sii^,*,^^*^^ wfc flM^My^^rtll^^^vvwRS>Mwu*^\

Fig. 16.

Showing the stitches

6.

Continue, putting the needle back each time into

the last stitch.

7.

Make
16),

the stitches even and keep the seam straight

(Fig.

leaving one thread of the cloth between the

stitches
8.

and the basting.

cloth,

Fasten the thread, by inverting the

Join the thread, by
it

and

tak-

ing a few stitches directly over the last ones made.

9.

cealing

in

the seam
leaving
left,

making a small knot, and conor by taking one stitch with the
of

new
few

thread,

half-an-inch
to be to

the

thread

to

be

brought to the

and
it

stitches, allowing

sewed over with the next wind in and out.

HALF-BACKSTITCHING.
Suggestions.

25

In the same manner

if

ing

raw edges,

a strain

is

sew all seams havcoming on them, as in

etc.

shoulder seams, the seams of drawers,

A
is

bias

seam

should be sewed from the broad part to the narrow.

How
inserted
?

is

stitching

done
?

How

is

the work held

Where

the needle

first

brought out ? As you continue, where should the needle always be inserted? How should the stitches be made? How many threads of the cloth should be left between the basting and the stitches? How should the thread be fastened ? How should the thread be joined ?

Where next

Where

is it

HALF-BACKSTITCHING.

Fig.

17.

Showing the stitches and the

is

needle

in

position.

Half-backstitching
that the needle
is

the

same
17).
?

as

stitching,

except

put only half-way back, thus leaving a

space between the stitches (Fig.

How

does half-backstitching differ from stitching

HEMMING.

hem

is

a fold,

made by

twice turning over the edge

it

of a piece of cloth,

Materials.

No.

and then sewing

down.
strip

9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a

of cotton cloth.

26

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

To

prepare the hem,

make

a fold one-fourth of an inch

wide, and crease; then fold again one-fourth of an inch

deep and crease.

Baste near the edge of the

first

fold

with uneven basting stitches.

first
it

For wider hems, have the

this

fold one-fourth of an inch wide, being careful to crease

thoroughly, as

much depends upon

crease the

second fold the required width, which can be clone evenly,

by measuring every two inches with a paper or other measure. If a very wide hem is required, baste as you measure, first along the upper edge of the hem, and then
along the lower edge.
first

On

woollen cloth, baste down the

narrow

fold,

then baste as for a

hem on

cotton cloth.

Fig.

8.

Showing the

needle

in

position for beginning the work.

Hemming.
1.

Practise

Drill No. 2 (page 14).

2.

Have no knot in the thread. Hold the hem across the cushion
6 (page
14).

of the left fore-

finger, as in Fig.
3.

Pointing the needle from you, insert

it

at the

edge

of the fold, one-third of

an inch from the right-hand end,

and bring
4.

it

out close to the end, as in Fig. 18.

little

Carefully draw the needle through, leaving a

of the thread at the end, to

be tucked under the

hem with

HEMMING.

27

the point of the needle, and to be sewed clown with the

first
5.

stitches.

Take up one

or two threads of the cloth, and one

or two threads of the fold, keeping the needle

on a

line

with the hem, and pointing towards the

left

shoulder.

pjg_

9.

Showing the work

the

as

it

looks on the right side.

and continue, making the stitches close and slanting (Figs. 19 and 20). When the thread becomes too short for use, either 7.
6.

Draw

needle

out

cut or break

it.

Fig. 20.
join

Showing the work

new

as it looks on the wrong side; and how to the thread, the double line representing the old thread, and

the black line the

thread.

8.

To

join the thread (Fig.

20).

If

there

is

no end

left of

the thread, pick out a few stitches, always leaving

end between the hem. With the needle, draw the end under the fold, and towards the thumb. Begin with a
the

28

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
needleful, as

new

when commencing

the work, putting

the needle into the last hole the short end

came out

of,

and sewing both ends down with the next stitches. 9. At the end of the work, fasten the thread by taking two or three stitches over each other in the fold. Hems should be begun and finished by Suggestions. A narrow hem neatly overhanding the ends of the fold. on stiff cloth, as on table linen, need not be basted. The

seams of a garment should be sewed before hemming, to

conceal the
edges.

Before

turning the

first

fold,

the

end of the seam should be cut and

to avoid extra thicknesses

wear

when basting
it

the

hem,

should exactly match.

easily, fold

In sewing, to
it

seams or stripes hold a wide hem

over and over until

is

a convenient width.

How should the hem be folded? Where and how should it be times should a wide hem be basted? How many times should a wide hem on woollen cloth be basted ? Should there be a knot in the thread ? How How should the needle point? Where is the needle inserted? is the hem held? How should the thread be drawn through? What is done with the end? How is
What
is

hem?

basted?

How many

the stitch

made?

How

should the needle be held?

How
new

should the stitches be

left?

taken?

In joining the thread, where should

the end of the old thread be

Where should

the end be

drawn

In starting with a

needleful of thread, where

should the needle be put? What should be done with the two ends? In fastening, where and how should the stitches be taken ? What should be done to the ends of a

hem

RUNNING.
Running
is

done by passing the needle

running
is

in

and out of

the material at regular intervals.

The

rule for

to take

up two threads of the

light in the averthis,

cloth and pass over

two threads, but the

age school-room does not permit

strain the eyes trying to do so.

nor

is

it

wise to
is

The

general principle

to pass over as

much

of the cloth as

you take up.

RUNNING.

29

No. cotton yard Running.

Materials.
strip of
1.

needle,

No. 50 thread, and a

hall-

cloth,

doubled and basted.

Make

Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15). a small knot in the thread.

in the left hand,

2.

Hold the work

between the thumb

and cushion of the forefinger, as

3.

in Fig. 7 (page 15).

Sew

directly below the basting.

4.

Insert the needle between the edges of the seam, at

the right-hand corner, and take the stitches (Fig. 21) over
the cushion of

the

left

forefinger,

as

in

Drill

No.

(page

15).

j^ioImkw* jrtp|inVir'*"T)|)l|l

U'lin^ ti<niiHMllliffilililiflH.hill()|i'i'W"

1 llii'1

*'">

'"1 '*>'ii'U_^i<>I>>_"l

Fig. 21.

Showing the stitches,

and the needle

in

position.

5.

Fasten, by putting the needle through to the under

side,
6.

and taking two or three stitches

in

the same place.

Join the thread, by sewing over the last stitches, or

it

by making a knot and concealing

the seam.
Suggestions.

between the edges

in

of

To avoid puckering

running, begin at
left

the right hand and smooth the seam between the

forefinger. Running is used for seams, which do not require great strength, also for tucking.

thumb and

How
is

is

running done

What

is

the principle to be followed in running?

How How

the

work held?

Where

are the stitches taken?

Where

is

the needle inserted?

?

How should the stitches be taken ? should the thread be joined ? When

How
is

should the thread be fastened running used ?

30

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

RUNNING AND
Running and
Materials.

BACKSTITCH.
more
run-

a backstitch consists of two or

ning stitches and a backstitch, taken alternately.

No.
'

needle,

yard strip of cotton cloth,

"' S "

No. 50 thread, and a doubled and basted.

1

half-

\.w>

Vs V\>^\^-- yMIi\^'N Vl ''('/,|llll."' "I'M

\Vn.V-M(l<l'Ai\.-/V*v.., ..,...(//\vW*'i>w-.i

,..

""^i

, 'l

SiiSSi
ffi

^at^a

ma,

ca

^3=?=^

^^^a^^^r*^" c^

Fig. 22.

Showing the stitches,

and needle

in

position for putting

away the work.

Begin as for running. i Running and a backstitch. Take three running stitches. 2. Take one backstitch. 3. Repeat, which will cause every third and fourth 4. stitch to meet (Fig. 22). Another method is to take three running Suggestions. stitches, making the third twice the length of the others, and then, putting the needle back to the middle of the
.

last stitch,

proceed as before.

In this manner, the stitches

on the right side resemble running, but on the wrong side

there
is

a slight difference.

Running and

a backstitch
little

is

used when the seam needs to be sewed a than by running.

Of what does running and a backstitch consist used?
?

stronger

When

is

running and a back-

stitch

OVERCASTING.

31

OVERCASTING.
done by taking loose stitches over the raw edge of cloth, to keep it from ravelling. - No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a stitched Materials.
Overcasting
is

strip of cotton cloth.

Fig. 23.

Showing the stitches,

and needle

in

position,

Overcasting.
1.

Practise Drill No. 4 (page 16). Find one-eighth of an inch and one-fourth of

an

inch on the measure (page 13).

2.

Place the thumb-nail on the cloth one-eighth of an

inch below the raw edge.

The

stitches are to be of this

depth, and twice as far, or one-fourth of an inch, apart.

3.

Make

a small knot in the thread.

left forefinger, as in Fig. 8

4.

Hold the work over the

Begin
at the right-hand

(page 16).
5.

6.

end of the seam. Insert the needle one-eighth of an inch below the

edge, and between the edges of the seam, in order to hide

the knot.
7.

Pointing the needle towards the

left

shoulder, take

32

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
left,

the next stitch one-fourth of an inch to the

and over

both edges of the cloth.

8.

Continue, taking up the same number of threads

each time, being careful to

9.

make

the spaces equal.

let

Do

not draw the stitches tightly, but

them

lie

loosely over the edge (Fig. 23).

10.

To

fasten

the

thread,

draw the needle nearly

through the cloth where the next stitch should come.

Turn over the

thread at this

cloth,

withdraw the needle, and fasten the point, being careful that the stitches do

not show on the right side.

1

1.

To

join the thread,

make

a small knot in the

new

thread, and put the needle between the edges of the seam,

through the

little hole,

which was made when the needle

overcasting, take out the bastingevenly.

was withdrawn.
Suggestions.

Before

threads and

trim

the edges

All seams whose

edges ravel should be overcast, and, therefore, a selvedge

seam does not need

difficult

to be overcast.

Overcasting
overcasting
a

is

very

to do nicely.

The above
etc.

directions are for over-

casting
waist,

on underclothes,
or

In

dress

any
bias

fine

material,

smaller stitches

should be

taken.

A
is

seam should be overcast from the broad

part to the narrow, or with the grain of the cloth.

deep are the stitches taken ? How far apart ? How Where is the needle inserted ? is the work begun ? Why ? How should the needle point ? How far to the left should the next stitch be taken? How do you continue with the stitches ? How is the thread fastened? How is the thread joined ? What should be done before overcasting ? When does a seam need to be overcast ? How is a bias seam overcast ?

What

overcasting
?

How

is

the

work held

At which end

OVERHANDING.

33

OVERHANDING.
Overhanding
of cloth.

done by sewing closely over two edges The edge of the cloth may be either a selvedge
is

or a creased fold.
Materials.

No.

needle,

No. 60 thread, and either

two selvedge
edge.

two folded strips of cotton cloth, carefully basted together with even stitches, near the
strips or

Fig. 24.

Showing overhanding stitches,

needle

in

position,

Overhanding.
1.

Practise

Drill

No.

(page

17).

Have no knot
of the

in the thread.

2.

Hold the work horizontally along

left forefinger^

the edge of the

cushion

and around the end of

at

the finger, as in Fig. 9 (page 17). Pointing the needle towards you, insert 3.
the cloth.
4.

it

the
of

edge nearest you, taking up two or three threads

Carefully draw the thread through, leaving half-an-

inch of the thread.

5.

Hold the
it

half-inch of thread

down with
first

the thumb,

so that
26, a).

may be sewed

Over by the

stitches (Fig.

34
6.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
it

Pointing the needle towards the chest, put both edges, taking up as little of the cloth
V aiHJ ^y^V^^^'^'^^^"^*^^^''^^^^^

through

as possible.

-Showing how

the stitches should look on the under side with the seam opened.

Take the stitches at the side of the cushion, and make them close and even, having perpendicular lines on the under side of the seam (Fig. 25 ), and oblique lines
7-

across the edges (Fig. 24).

Seam bein separated, how the be ^' nnin h w the stitches should Took on the side towards look you, and how to join the thread (the J d the doubl |me representing the Q|d threa and

end7fl

g '^

",

'

%GdgeS

f the
'

^r

6"

OVERHAXDIXG.
8.

35

Joining

the thread
use,

(Fig.

26).

When

the thread

becomes too short for

draw the needle through the

Insert

further edge of the cloth, as in taking a stitch.

the needle at the opposite edge, one-fourth of an inch to

the
left,

taking up one thread of the cloth.

Draw

the
in
it

thread through, and remove the needle.

the
at

Have no knot

new

thread.

Pointing the needle from you, insert

is

the hole where the old thread

hanging.
is left,

Draw

the

thread through until about an inch

end under the thumb.

insert
stitch
it

and hold the Pointing the needle towards you,

edge, exactly opposite

at the nearest

the last

on

the

other

edge.

Hold the ends under the

thumb, while the threads along the top are being overhanded afterwards, cut the ends off.
;

Fig. 27.

Showing another way of joining the thread.If

The

thread can also be joined as in Fig. 27.

pre-

ferred, a knot can be used

by beginning back and sewing-

over a few stitches, and afterwards cutting off the knot.

9.

Finish the seam by turning the work around, and

five stitches
;

overhanding back four or

thread securely.
10.

tin's

will fasten the

When

the seam

is

finished,
it

thread, open the seam, and rub

draw out the basting first on one side and

it

then on the other with the thumb-nail until

is flat.

36
Suggestions.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

This

stitch

is

sometimes called " top-

sewing," also "over and over."

ridge in the seam.

The
will

stitches should only

be deep enough to hold, taking care to avoid making a

The work

not pucker

if

the

needle

is

pointed towards the chest, and the stitches are

the cushion, not around the end of the
is

taken
finger.

at the side of

The

necessity of taking the stitches properly

of striped cloth.

shown by overhanding two pieces

side of the sewing
in stiff material

Either

may be used

as the right side.

it

A seam
between

can be pressed open by holding

forefinger of each
?

the

thumb and
?

hand and rubbing.

?

How is overhanding done

the needle be inserted the stitches

How should the work be held

seam

How and where should

made?
?

should be done with the end of the thread ? How are Mention one way of joining the thread. How should the seam

What

be finished

What

is

done

after the

is

finished

GATHERING AND PLACING OF GATHERS.

Gathering
used
is

done by running the needle

in

and out of
taken up.

the cloth, passing over twice as

It is

much

cloth as

is

in joining a full part to a plain part, as

an apron

to a band.

Materials.

--No.

needle, and a large blunt-pointed

needle, No. 40 thread, and a piece of cotton cloth half-a-

yard long and seven inches wide,

hemmed

at

the sides

and lower edge, and creased

Gathering.
1.

at the top.

Practise

Drill No. 3 (page 15).

and mark the place by cutting a small notch in the edge (Fig. 28), or by making a cross-stitch with colored thread, one inch
Find the middle
of the creased edge,

from the edge

(Fig. 28).

GATHERING.
2.

37
little

Use

a single or double thread a

longer than

the space to be gathered.

the gathers in place, but
thread.
3. is

double thread helps to keep

to knot than a single

more apt

Make
slip

a good- sized knot in the thread, so that

it

cannot
4.

through the
left

cloth.

With the the work in the

5.

right side of the cloth towards you, hold

hand, between the

thumb and cushion

of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15).

Insert the needle on the

wrong
to

side, so as to conceal

the knot, and through the

hem

keep the knot secure.

Fig. 28.

Showing the
stitch, also

middle marked by a notch and by showing gathering stitches.

a cross-

6.

Sew on

the crease, taking several stitches before

drawing the needle through.

7.

Do
as

not count the threads, but take up about half as

many
8.

you

skip,

i.e.,

take up two threads and pass over

four threads (Fig. 28).

If a

knot, that cannot be untied,

will

comes

in the gather-

ing thread, you

9.

have to begin again.

is

When

the seam

finished,

the thread, and

make

a knot in

remove the needle from this end of the thread.

38
10.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Put a pin in vertically, close to the
last stitch, tak-

ing up a few threads of the cloth.

1

1.

Carefully draw up the thread, but not too tightly.

1""'

\BmV\

n 1
1!

Fig. 29.

Showing the thread drawn

number

up,

and fastened around

a pin.

12.

Wind

the thread over the top, and under the point

of times, crossing the threads at the

of the pin a

middle of the pin (Fig. 29).

Fig. 30.

Showing the

placing of gathers, with a large blunt needle.

Placing or stroking

of

gathers.

With the

right side

towards you, begin

at the /^/V-hand edge.

GATHERING.
2.

39
left

Hold the work between the

as
in

finger,

Fig.

30,

thumb and forekeeping the thumb below the

gathering thread.
3.

Put the point of the large needle under the gatherit

ing thread, holding

4.
little

obliquely.

Press the needle towards the thumb, bringing the

plait

under the thumb, and drawing the needle

downwards.
5.

Pinch

it

down

tightly.

6.

Continue

in this

way, putting the needle under each

stitch.

Suggestions. -

The

part to be gathered should be divided

into halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the width.

When

the part

is

only divided into halves, a notch

may be

avoided by beginning the gathering in the middle.

In placing, the eye of the needle can be used instead of
a blunt-pointed needle.

The upper

part of the gathers

often need a stroke of the needle.

is

If a

scratching sound

made

in placing,

marks are apt

to be left,

and the cloth

torn.

In thin,

stiff

materials, instead of placing,

many
;

stitches can be taken on the needle at once,

and before

drawing the needle through, push them close together

holding firmly, pull them into place and press them.

How is gathering done? When is it used ? How is the cloth prepared ? How long a thread should be used ? What kind of a knot is required ? How is the work held? How are the stitches taken ? What is done after the seam is finished? How
should the thread be drawn? How should the thread be wound? At which end should stroking begin? How is the work held in stroking? Where should the needle be put ? What is done next ?

4Q

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

DOUBLE GATHERING OR GAUGING,

Double gathering
under those of the
Materials. - - No.
is

done by making two rows

of

gathering, with the stitches of the second row directly

first.

needle,

pieces of cotton cloth,

inches wide,

hemmed

at

40 thread, and two each half-a-yard long and seven the sides and lower edge.
No.

Fig. 31.

Showing double gathering on

single material.

Double gathering on single material. -fourth of an inch from the raw edge.
2.

1.

Gather one-

When
Make

the end

is

reached, remove the needle, but do

not draw up the thread.

3.

crease one-fourth

of

an inch

below the

gathering.
4.

On

the crease

make another row

of gathering, taking
it

each stitch directly bclozv the one above

5.

(Fig. 31).

Remove

the needle.
of

6.

Take hold

both

threads

near

the

cloth,

and

gradually draw the gathers up to the required width.

DOUBLE GATHERING.

let

Double gathering which

i.

is to

be overhanded on to a binding.
cloth,

Find the middle of the

and mark

it

one and

a half inches
2.
it

from the raw edge by a

cross-stitch.

Crease one inch from the raw edge of the cloth, and

remain folded.

3.

Make two

or

more rows

of gathering, the first

fold.

row
is

being one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the

Suggestions.

When double gathering

is

used, there

no need of placing.

Double gathering should be used on

if

woollen materials, and quite long stitches be taken,

there

Where the row can be easily made by

is

much

fulness.

gathers are large, the second

closely

drawing up the

first

gathering thread, and inserting the needle through

gathers at once.

many

single

double gathering done ? How far from the edge should the first row, in made? In double material? How is the middle of the cloth marked for double gathering, that is to be overhanded to a binding ?
is

How

material, be

42

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

SHIRRING.
Shirring
is

done by making several rows

8

of running,

parallel with

each other.

40 thread, and a piece of cotton cloth half-a-yard long and twelve inches wide. The cloth should be folded lengthwise and basted.
Materials.

No.

needle, No.

Fig. 32.

Showing shirring,
Begin as

and the stitches.

Shirring.
2.

in running.

Make
Draw

the required

number

of

rows

at

the desired

distances from each other (Fig. 32).

3.

the gathers up on the threads, or by cords

run between the rows.

How
is

shirring

done

How

are the gathers

drawn up

SCALLOPED EDGE.

43

SCALLOPED EDGE.

scalloped edge

is

Materials.

woollen cloth,

Scalloped edge.

No. needle, No. 60 thread, match and strong thread Fold one the lengthwise edges
8
silk or

used as a fancy heading for fulness.

to

a strip of soft
in color.

of

five-eighths of an inch

from the edge, and baste close

to

the raw edge.

2.

On

the

wrong

side,

and beginning

at the right-hand

end,

mark the outer edge

of the fold into inches with a

colored pencil.

Fig. 33.

Showing

scalloped edge.

3.

Half-an-inch below the outer edge of the fold, and

from the right-hand end, make another row of dots one inch apart. These dots should
beginning half-an-inch
be midway between those of the upper row.
4.

Make

a good-sized knot,

the upper right-hand dot,

and inserting the needle at take small running stitches,

slanting up and down, from dot to dot (Fig. 33). Carefully draw up the thread every few inches. 5.
For what
is

a scalloped edge used

What kind

of stitches are taken

44

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

HONEY-COMBING OR SMOCKING.
Honey-combing
mental
effect.
is

drawing fulness together for ornafine

Materials.

No.

8 needle, a piece of

woollen cloth

eleven inches long and three and a half inches wide, silk
to match,

and a red and a blue

pencil.

<>d

Ob

OOOOOoOtOOo

060606060
Fig. 34.-

Showing

how

to

mark the

cloth,

diamonds representing

red

dots, and circles blue dots.

Honey-combing.

I.

On

the right side of the cloth, and

in Fig.

beginning at one end, mark the entire length, as

34, placing red dots in the place of
clots in

diamonds, and blue

the place of circles.

Fig. 35.

Showing honey-combing begun,

needle

in

position

HONEY-COMBING.
2.

45
at

(Fig.

Drawing the needle through from underneath 34), take up a few threads of the cloth at b (Fig.

34),

and fasten a and b together with two or three over and

over stitches (Fig. 35, a). Passing the needle underneath, bring 3.
out at the

it

next red dot (Fig. 34,

c),

and fasten

and d together.

Fig. 36.

Showing diamond

honey-combing.

end of the row, fastening together the red dots which are connected in Fig. 34. Beginning the second row at the right, fasten 5.
4.

Continue

to the

together,
Fig. 34)-

in

similar

manner, the blue dots

(circles,

46
6.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Work

the third row as the

first,

and the fourth row

is

as the second,

Suggestions.
in

In honey-combing, exactness

and so continue

(Fig. 36).

required

marking the spaces. Instead of colored pencils, the dots may be marked with thread or chalk. To keep the honey-combing in position, the outer edges should be
fastened to a lining, after
it

is

finished.
in

is

What is honey-combing? Where is exactness required honey-combing kept in position when finished ?

honey-combing?

How

BINDINGS.

binding or band
of a seam.

is

used to strengthen and cover the

raw edges

Binding No. 1.-- Sewed by stitching and hemming.

Materials.

No.

8 needle, No. 50 thread, pins, scissors,

and a piece

of cotton cloth half-a-yard long

and seven

Fig. 37.

Showing the corners of the

of the

binding cut, and the middle

a cross-stitch.

edges marked by notches and

inches wide, notched in the middle, gathered and stroked (page 36); for the binding, a piece of cloth eight inches

long and three inches wide.

BINDINGS.
Preparations.

47

Find the middle of the band, and mark the place by cutting a notch (Fig. 37) at the edge of each side, or by taking a cross-stitch (Fig. 37) with
i
.

colored cotton.

each corner of the band one-fourth of an inch deep (Fig. ^y), to avoid having many thicknesses of
2.

Cut

off

cloth,
3.

when the corners

are turned.

Loosen the gathering thread.

Fig. 38.

Showing

half of the gathers basted

and stitched.

4.

Holding the wrong

side of the gathered piece to-

wards you, place the middle of the band at the notch in the middle of the gathers, and put in a pin vertically, to hold

them together
5.

(Fig. 38).

Pin the ends of the gathers one-fourth of an inch

from each end of tJic baud.

Tighten or loosen the gathering thread, so that the length of the gathered edge exactly matches that of the
6.

band.

48
7.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Fasten the gathering thread by winding
it

around

the pin.
8.

With the

point of the needle adjust the gathers, so

is

that the fulness

9.

evenly distributed along the band.

Holding the gathers towards you, baste, with small stitches, a little above the gathering thread.
Stitching.

1.

Stitch the gathers to the band, exactly

over the gathering thread, taking up only one gather at a

time (Fig.
2.
3.

38).

Take out the

If,

pins, as

you come

to them.

when
it

sewing, the gathering thread should be too

by unwinding it from the pin. 4. When the band is stitched on, fasten the thread securely, cut off the gathering thread and take out the
short, loosen

basting thread.

Hemming.
site
2.

Turn up the band, and crease the oppocorners

of

edge and the two ends, one-fourth of an inch deep.

Cut

off

the

the

gathers

above

the

stitching.
3.

Fold the band over to the line of stitching.

Pin the middle of the folded edge to the middle of

4.

the line of stitching.

5.

Pin the ends, being careful to have

the corners

exactly together.
6.

Baste the band down, keeping the edge of the fold

directly over the stitching.

7.

8.

Overhand each end, beginning at the gathers. Hem the band down, taking a stitch in each gather,
the stitching.
right side.

little beloiv

Do

not allow the stitches to

show on the
the cloth,

Suggestions.

binding should be cut lengthwise of

is

when strength

required, or

where much wear

BINDINGS.

49

is

coming, as on underclothing.
a

narrow binding for

bias.

finishing

garment should be cut on the

gathering
should

The
by

binding and

be equally divided

notches, so that there

part than in another.

may be no more
If

fulness in one

there are but few gathers, half-

backstitching can be used instead of stitching.

Great
;

care should be taken to have the ends of the band neat

some prefer
stitching,

to turn the ends of the

of

others stitch the ends

it

band under before the band together,

before putting

on to the gathers.

Binding No.
Materials.

Same

2.

Sewed by
as for

setting-in the gathers.

I.

Binding No.

Fig. 39.

Showing gathers
i.

set into a band.

Preparations.
cross-stitch,
2. 3.

Mark

the middle of the band by a

and cut

off the corners, as in Fig. 37.

Crease the four edges of the band.

Baste

and overhand the ends, beginning

at

the

corners.
4.

Loosen the gathering thread.

5<3

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
5.

Hold the

right side of the gathers towards you.

6.

Pin the middle of one edge of the band to the mid-

dle of the gathers,

(Fig. 39, &)
7.

and exactly over the gathering thread

Pin the ends of the gathers, inside the ends of the

(Fig. 39, a

band
8. is

and

c).
it

Draw up

or loosen the gathering thread, so that

the same length as the band, and fasten around the pin.
9.

10.

Arrange the gathers with the needle. Baste the band on, so that the gathering thread

is

covered.
Setting-in of gathers.

Begin as for hemming, but

make
2.

the stitch vertical on the side towards you.

Take

up,

close

below the gathering thread, one

gather and then a thread or two of the band (Fig. 39). Take the next stitch by inserting the needle into 3.
the

next

gather (which

should

be

directly

under the

place where the thread comes out of the band) and at the

same time take up a thread of the band. 4. Take a stitch in each gather.
5.

When

this side is finished, fasten securely,

and cut

off the
6.

gathering thread.
that

Baste and sew the under part of the band in the

the edge of
the band
side,

same manner, taking care

in order that the
7.

corresponds exactly with the edge on the opposite

Do

not let

Suggestions.

The shape
it

band may not be twisted. these stitches show on the right

of the stitch
is

side.

like the letter

is

N, as in overhanding, but the slant here

underneath,

while in overhanding

is

on the

top.

binding

is

more easily sewed on in this manner, if there is a double row of gathering. To strengthen a binding, where a

BINDINGS.

51
at the

button

is

to be placed, turn in
it,

one inch

end of the
on the
at

band before folding

and baste pieces

of cloth
;

under side where other buttons are to be placed

button-hole end, turn in half-an-inch.
in a

the

Cut a button-hole

binding nearer the gathers than the folded edge, so

that the

garment

will

be held in place firmly.

by overhanding. Same as for Binding No. 1, with the larger Materials. piece of cloth gathered for overhanding to a binding
Binding No.

3.

Sewed

(page 41).

Hg.

40.

Showing gathers overhanded,

with needle

in

position

Preparations.
cross-stitch,
2.
3.

Mark
off

the middle of the band by a

and cut

the corners, as in Fig. 37.

of

Crease the four edges

the band.
at

Double each end, and beginning overhand both ends.

4.

the corners,

Baste the lengthwise edges together.

52
5.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Pin the middle of the band at the middle of
Pin the ends of the gathers and band together.
the

right side of the gathers.

6.
7.

Draw up

or loosen the gathering thread, until

it is

of the
pin.

same length

as the band, and fasten around the

Arrange the gathers with the needle, and put in pins vertically every two inches. I. Holding the band towards you, overOverhanding. hand the gathers to the band placing a stitch in each
8.

gather.
2.
3.

Take out the

pins, as

you come

to them.

Fasten the gathering thread.

is a binding used? In what three ways can a binding be sewed on? can the middle of the band be marked ? What should be done to the corners of the band ? Why ? Where should the gathered piece and band be pinned together ? What should be done to the gathering thread ? How is it fastened ? How should the gathers be adjusted ? How basted ? Where and how should the gathers be stitched ? How is the band prepared for hemming ? Where should the band be pinned ? How is the band basted ? What should be done at each end ? Where should the hemming stitches be taken ? When is a binding cut lengthwise ? hat should be done to the ends of a band before setting-in the gathers ? How should the band be basted to the gathers? What letter should the stitch resemble? How can a band be strengthened, where buttons are to be placed ?

For what

How

FACINGS OR FALSE HEMS.

garment for protection and finish, and has the appearance of a hem. No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and No. Materials. 70 thread, pins, and two pieces of cotton cloth, one piece six inches long and four inches wide, the other piece, for the facing, six inches long and two inches wide.
facing
is

a fold applied to the edge of a

BUTTON-HOLES.
Facing.
of cloth,
2.

53

Place the facing lengthwise on the piece

and pin the ends together.

Baste them together one-fourth of an inch from the

Half-backstitch under the basting.

edge.
3.

Take out the basting thread. 5. Fold the wrong sides together, and crease the cloth one or two threads beyond the seam, that the seam may not show on the edge.
4. 6.

Crease the opposite edge of the facing one-fourth of

Pin the ends of the cloth and facing evenly together.

an inch deep.
7.

8.

Baste and hem.

Suggestions.

A facing which requires strength should

A
narrow facing for a rounded edge,
not long enough to allow

be cut lengthwise.
as the

that

it

neck of a garment, should be cut on the bias, so may be stretched when being hemmed. A false hem
is

can be used, when the material

a hem.
What is a facing What is When can a false hem be used
?

its

use

How should

it first

be sewed

How

next

BUTTON-HOLES.

button-hole

is

slit

cut and

worked

in a

garment

to

admit a button.

Button-Hole Stitch for Beginners.

Materials.

No.

8 needle,

No. 40 colored thread, and

a small

folded and basted strip of cotton cloth.

Button-hole stitch. 1
.

Make

knot

in

the thread.

54
2.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Place the folded edge of the cloth across the cushion

of the forefinger of the left hand, allowing the tip of the

finger to show.
3.

Hold the

cloth firmly, keeping the end of the

thumb

near the folded edge.

4.
5.

Work from you, instead of towards you.

Draw

the needle through from underneath, close to

the folded edge of the cloth, which will bring the thread
into position for the stitch.

Again insert the needle one-eighth of an inch from the edge, and exactly back of its first position.
6.

Fig. 41

Showing the work

in

position,

and button-hole stitches.

7.

Let the needle remain half-way through the cloth,

at the

and pointing towards you. 8. Take the two threads

eye of the needle, bring

them towards you

at

the right of the needle, then under

the point of the needle and from you (Fig. 44). Pull the needle out, drawing the thread so that the 9.
twist or purl

comes

at the top of the folded

edge of the

cloth (Fig. 41).

10.

One-eighth of an inch beyond take another stitch

in the

same manner.

BUTTON-HOLES.

55

So continue, making the stitches even. 12. When the thread becomes too short to the other side of the cloth, and fasten lightly
11.

use, turn to
at the side

of the last stitch,

and away from the

it

purl.

After thread-

ing the needle, insert

it

beside of the last stitch, drawingto the right side,

towards the purl.

Turn

and draw the

needle up through the last purl, and proceed with the

button-hole stitch.
What
placed?
is

the

first

thing to be done

Where should
?

What

part of the forefinger shows

How

which direction do you work? Where is the first from the edge is the needle next inserted ? How far through the cloth should the needle be brought? How should it point? What is done with the two threads? When the thread is drawn out, where should the twist or purl come ? How much should be left between the stitches ?

the folded edge of the cloth be should the cloth be held? In Why? How far stitch taken ?

BUTTON-HOLES.
Materials. - - No. 8 needle, No.

hole scissors,

40 colored thread, buttona medium-sized button, and a folded and

basted strip of cotton cloth.

Fig. 42.

Showing the work

4.
5.

in

position

The
1.

instructions are given in the following order

Cutting.
Barring.

Button-hole stitch.
Finishing.

2. 3.

Overcasting.

6.

Joining the thread.


56
Cutting.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Cut

the

slit

by a thread

of the cloth, onelittle

fourth of an inch from the folded edge, and a

longer

than the diameter of the button.

Barring.
2.

Make

a small knot in the thread.

slit

With the

folded edge from you, place the

across

the cushion of the left forefinger (Fig. 42).

Hold the slit firmly between the thumb and forefinger, and slanting as in Fig. 42. Work from you, beginning at the cud farthest from 4.
3.

the folded edge of the cloth.

Fig. 43.

A, showing the barring of a button-hole; B, showing the overcasting of a button-hole; C, showing a finished button-hole; D, showing a button-hole on heavy cloth.

5.

Draw
of the

the needle through from underneath, at the

slit,

left

and three or four threads from the raw

cloth, so that the folded

edge, a (Fig. 43, A).

6.

Turn the

edge

is

towards
out

you.
7.

Insert the needle at b (Fig. 43, A), and bring

it

at

c,

taking up three or four threads of the cloth at each

slit.
it

side of the
8.

Again insert the needle at b, and bring This makes a side and end barring.

out at

c.

BUTTON-HOLES.
9.

57

Turn the cloth, and bar the other side and end in the same manner, i.e., inserting the needle at d, bring it
out at
a,

and repeat.

This brings the needle to the

start-

ing point.
Overcasting.

1.

Hold the barring

tightly

near the

edge of the
2.

slit.

cast

Taking up three or four threads of the cloth, overone side, making the stitches over the barring and

58

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
will

manner, which
point.

again bring the needle to the starting

Button-hole stitch or purl. -

Draw

the needle

half-

way through
2.

at

the

left

side,

and one thread beyond,

you, take the two

taking up about four threads of the cloth.

With the needle pointing towards

at the right

threads at the eye of the needle, and bring them towards

you

of the needle, then

under the point of

the needle and from you (Fig. 44). Draw the needle and thread out, at right angles to 3.
the
slit,

and so that the twist or purl comes

(Fig. 44).

at

the top edge

of the

slit

In
(8).

making the

purl, the thread will

form the figure eight

4.

Continue

in

this

manner, leaving a thread of the

cloth
5.

between each

stitch,

and make the stitches even.

Take seven

or eight stitches across the outer end

(Fig. 45),

drawing the purl towards the folded edge, and

making
6.

either a square or round end.

The

greatest wear

from the button comes here.

Holding the folded edge

in

of the cloth towards you,

work the second

If,

side until close to the

end barring.
fail to

taking the button-hole stitch, you

put the picked

thread
up,

around the

needle,

the

stitch

can

be

by leaving a small loop, and, with the thread beyond it, passing the needle from underneath through
Finishing.

the loop.

1.

Without turning the

the
first

cloth,

draw the

needle

down through
it

button-hole stitch taken,

side,

bringing

up on the opposite
this

where the side and

the
sides

end barring meet.

2.

Draw

stitch so tightly as to bring

close together.

BUTTON-HOLES.
3.

59

Make

a barring exactly over the one already there,

which
4.

will leave the

thread at the

left

side.

Holding the thread under the

will

left

thumb, draw the

needle under the two end barrings and over the thread,

which
5.

form the loop

stitch.

Take another loop

stitch in the

middle of the bar-

ring and one in the right hand corner.

6.

Draw

the needle

down through
i
.

the cloth close

to the

purl of the
short,

last loop stitch,

Joining the thread.

and fasten on the wrong

slit,

side.

If

the thread should prove too

put the needle through the

and turn

to the

other side of the cloth.

2.
3.

Fasten lightly beside the

last stitch.
it

After threading the needle, insert

beside the last

stitch,
4.

drawing

it

towards the
purl,

purl.

Turning the right

last

side towards you,

draw the needle

up through the
hole stitch.
Suggestions.
allel

and proceed with the button-

On

materials that ravel,

make two
;

par-

rows of stitching, and cut between the rows or the place may be dampened with glue and cut when dry. It
is

important to remember

when making

a button-hole, to

work from you and begin at the end farthest from the edge. Try to keep the slit straight and not to press it

Some hold the slit horizontally on the forefinger. The distance that the button-hole is cut from the edge, depends upon the garment. The side of the
out of shape.

garment
to
it.

in

which the button-hole

it is

is

made,

is

a matter of

choice, but

wise to decide upon one side and adhere

In woollen goods a triangle of a few threads of the

cloth can be cut out of the end nearest the edge, or the

end can be rounded.

60

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

The

barring strengthens the button-hole and keeps

If a

it

in place.

great strain comes on the button-hole, put

a double barring around.

Some
casting
place.

prefer to overcast before barring, but the overstitches

are

helpful in keeping
is

the barring in

When

the overcasting

done

first,

take the over-

casting stitches on the under or

wrong

side,

thus securing

the under edge, which

is

very apt to pull away in working.

button-hole

material, that does not ravel, need not be overcast.

A
over

button-hole can be finished by taking

stitches in the loop, or

on heavy goods by sewing closely

In a button-hole, where a and over the barring. strain comes on the sides, as in the front of a shirt, work both ends as in finishing an ordinary button-hole.

Always
take a

try to have the thread long

enough

to finish

working the button-hole.

new

piece of

For a very large button-hole, thread, when beginning on the buttonis

hole stitch.

On

woollen cloth, button-hole twist should

be used.
barring.
What
is

On

heavy goods, a cord

used

instead

of

a button-hole

What
slit

is

its

use

Give the order in which the instruc-

tions for button-hole

Cutting. Barring. do you work ?

How should the Where should the

?

making are

given.

be cut

slit

be placed and
?

how held?
is

In which direction

At which end do you begin

Where

the needle inserted?

What

taken by following the directions for the end How is the other side and end barred ? Where will this bring the needle ? barring ? How should the barring be held? How is the first side overOvercasting. How is the end overcast ? How is the needle brought to the starting point ? cast ? Where and how should the needle be inserted ? How Button-hole stitch.
should be done next
stitch is

What

many threads of the cloth are taken up In what direction should the needle point ? How are the needle and thread drawn What is now done with the two threads out ? Where should the twist or purl come ? What figure is formed by the thread, How many threads of the cloth should be left between the in making the purl? stitches ? How should the outer end be worked Where does the greatest wear
? ? ?

should the cloth be held in working the second side? How can a button-hole stitch be picked up ? What is done with the needle ? How should this stitch be drawn ? Finishing.

come?

How

BUTTONS.
Where
thread
?

61
?

is

the second barring

the other loop stitches taken

made How is the loop stitch formed Where should the needle be drawn,
? ?

Where

are

to fasten the

What is done if the thread proves too short? After threading the needle, where should it be inserted ? Where is it next brought ? Why is barring used ? Is a material, that does nq ravel, overcast ? How long a thread should be taken ?

Joining the thread.

BUTTONS.

button

is

a catch of metal or other substance, by

which a garment is fastened. No. 7 and No. 8 needles, No. 36 and No. 50 Materials. thread, a pin, a four-holed button, and a folded and basted

piece of cotton cloth.

Fig. 46.
A, c,

a, Showing the sewingof a two-holed button, pin in showing the sewing of a four-holed button, pin in showing the sewing of a boot-button.

position

position

Buttons.

Make

a pin-hole,

where the button

is

to

be

placed.
2.

Stitch with the fine needle and thread a very small

at

around the pin-hole, or a cross keep both sides of the cloth in place.
circle
3.

the pin-hole, to

Having the coarse thread double, make

a knot.

4.

Draw

the needle through the pin-hole from the upper

side, to
5.

conceal the knot under the button.

Bring the needle partly through, close to the knot.

Place the button on the needle, and draw the needle

6.

and thread through.

62
7.
b),

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Place the pin across the top of the button (Fig. 46, to lengthen the stitches and take the first stitch
;

across the button, at right angles with the edge of the

cloth.
8.

Sew

securely through and through the holes,

a cross

on the button, and two parallel lines

making on the wrong

side of the cloth.

9.

Remove

the pin, which will loosen the stitches.

it

10.

Inserting the needle from underneath, bring

out

between the button and

button.
1

cloth, close to the centre of the

Wind

the thread tightly around the stitches three

or four times, to

form a neck for the button

thus allow-

ing room for the thickness of the button-hole.

12.

Fasten the thread on the under side of the

Suggestions.

In
A
c)
;

cloth.

sewing on a two-holed button, the

to avoid stretching the

stitches should be taken at right angles with the edge of

the cloth (Fig. 46,

button-hole.

a),

end of the

button

with a loop, as a boot-button,

should be sewed with the stitches taken parallel with the

edge (Fig. 46,

the button.

this will bring the

wear on the loop

first.

of

The

button-holes should be

made

To mark

the

places for the buttons, lay the right sides of the garment
together, and put

pins through the outer ends of the

button-holes

taking great care to have the pins exactly

opposite the button-holes.

What
pared?

Why ? How should the stitches be taken in the neck of the button formed ? sewing on a two-holed button ? How on a button with a loop? How are the places for the buttons marked on a garment ?

Why How is
?

What is its use ? How should the place for a button be preis a button ? What kind of thread should be used? How should the needle be inserted? What is placed across the top of the button ? How is the button sewed on ?

EYELET-HOLES.

63

EYELET-HOLES.

An

eyelet

is

a hole

made and worked

in a

garment, to

receive a small cord or the loop of a button.

Materials.

a piece of cloth
Eyelet-holes.

No. No. 40 folded and Pierce the

8 needle,

thread, a stiletto, and

basted.

1.

cloth
as

with the

stiletto,

breaking

few threads as possible. 2. Holding the hole tightly

left

over the cushion of the

finger,

fore-

work
very

it

over

and

over

with

close,

even

stitches

(Fig. 47, a).

3.

When
care

working on a
to

line

with the threads of the cloth, use

great
close
4.

take

the

stitches

and deep enough.

Use the
J.-

stiletto occasionally

to

keep the hole round.

a

Suggestions. 00
eyelet-hole,

^rii make a
1

large

Fig. 47.
,

eyelet-hole
large

mark the
a

circle

by

Showing a small u showing a eyelet-hole, marked

a,
.
,

/>,

twice

running

thread

around

by

running
a

stitches

showing

large

eyelet-

the desired size (Fig. 47, b)\ then carefully cut out the centre, turn

hole finished.

the edge of the material under, and work the edge over

and over or with button-hole stitches (Fig. 47,

c).

On

woollen materials, use

silk or twist.

An

eyelet-hole

can be worked with the button-hole

What

stitch.

How

is an eyelet-hole ? What is its use ? With what do we make an eyelet-hole should the evelet-hole be held and worked ? Where should care be taken ?

64

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK,

HOOKS AND

EYES.

A
ing.

hook

is

a hard material, bent for holding or fastenis

An

eye

a small round catch to receive the hook.

8

Materials. sized

-- No.

hook and

eye,

40 thread, a mediumand two folded and basted pieces of

needle, No.

cotton cloth.
"

LOOPS.

65
left

3.

Holding the hook firmly between the

side,

thumb

and forefinger, unfasten it. 4. Begin at the further two

circles (Fig. 48),

and overhand closely the

let

being careful not to

the stitches

show on the right side. Overhand the under 5.

bend.
6.

part of the hook, as far as the

Fasten, by taking three or four stitches in the same

place, at

one side

of the

hook

then run the needle to the

opposite side, and again fasten.

here,

great strain comes

and

it is

Suggestions.
liable to

necessary to fasten securely.

If

the eye
it

is

on a garment, where

it is

show, cover

with button-hole or loop stitches.

When
twist,

sewing on hooks and eyes, use a strong thread or

and as
is

fine a needle as possible.

t

Where is the eye placed? How is it sewed is an eye ? should the thread be fastened? What is done to the two pieces of cloth Where is the hook placed before it is put in position 3 before sewing on the hook ? How is it sewed on ? How is the thread fastened ?

What

hook?

What

on?

How

LOOPS.

A
of

loop

is

a catch

made

in a

garment, to take the place

an eye.
Materials.-- No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and a folded

and basted piece of cotton

Loops.
2.

cloth.

1.

Make

a knot in the thread.

Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you, work from left to right. Half-an-inch from the folded edge take three or 3. four stitches one-fourth of an inch in length, and over each
other (Fig. 49,
a).


66
4.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Holding the thread down with the left thumb, insert the needle under the backstitches, and over the thread
(Fig. 49, a);

being careful not to

the needle and thread

take up any threads of the cloth.

5.

Draw
at

towards you, so that the purl

b

may

come
6.

the side of the loop to-

wards you.
Fill

the loop

full of stitches

Fig. 49.

a,
in

Showing the
position
;

drawn closely together.

7.

needle

/>,

At the
needle

right-hand end, draw

showing a finished loop; showing a finished c,

loop, enlarged.

the

down

through

the

cloth, close to the purl of the last

stitch.

8.

With

few

stitches,

overhand the underneath

stitch-

ing,

and fasten securely.

Suggestions.

In making

a loop on a garment, the back-

stitches should be taken one-sixteenth of an inch

beyond

where the loop comes, when the garment

is

fastened.

Button-hole stitches can be used instead of loop-stitches.

What
loop
?

is

a loop

What

is its

use
first
?

In which direction do you

stitches taken
?

work

in

making a
?

Where and how

is

are the

How

is

the needle inserted

How
What

the needle

drawn through

How many stitches

?

should be taken in the loop?

is

done to the underneath stitches

GUSSETS.

gusset

is

an angular piece of cloth, inserted

8 needle,

in a gar-

ment, to strengthen and enlarge an opening.

Materials.

No.

No. 60 thread, pins, scissors,

five

and a piece of cotton cloth

inches square,

hemmed

GUSSETS.

67

on three sides
circle of cloth.

for the gusset a quarter of a four-inch

Gussets.

Find the

middle of the side of the

cloth

not

hemmed, and

cut two inches and a half,

by a thread.
2.

Make a hem on each

Fig. 50.

- Showing the gusset

folded over.

side,

having

it

one-eighth
at

of

an inch wide

the

top,

and turned to a point at the bottom. Find the middle of the rounded side 3. and crease to the opposite corner.
4.
5.

of the gusset,

Baste with even stitches along the crease.

On
Cut

all

the sides, fold and crease one-fourth of an

inch.
6.

off all

unnecessary thicknesses of cloth

in the

folds,
7.

and baste the folds clown.

On

each side, five-eighths of an inch from point a

(Fig. 50),

make

a pin-hole

then fold and crease from pinb).

hole to pin-hole (Fig. 50, b to

Setting -in the gusset.

1.

With

a small

knot in the
of

thread,

draw the needle through from the wrong side

the gusset, at point a (Fig. 50).

2.

sert

Holding the wrong side of the cloth towards you, inthe needle from the right side, two or three threads

from the end of the opening.

3.

Holding the right

to
;

sides
far

together,

overhand the
or

gusset

the

cloth,

as

as

the crease

point

(Fig. 50)
4.

fasten securely.
side in the

Overhand the other

at point a.

same manner, begin-

ning

68
5.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Fold the gusset over on the crease. Pin the end of the middle line of basting to the 6. a little below the opening (Fig. 51).

cloth,

Fig. 51.

Showing

gusset gusset on the wrong side.

the middle of the pinned, and the finished

Fig.

52.

Showing
gusset
side.
rip"ht

the

finished

on

the

7.

Baste and

hem

the gusset to the cloth.

8.

Make

a
it

row

of stitching at the fold of the gusset, to

strengthen

(Fig. 51).

Pig, 53.

Showing other ways of cutting a gusset.

Suggestions.
as desired
;

The gusset can be made

;

as large or small
53).

it

can also be cut in different shapes (Fig.

easy method of inserting a gusset is to cut a small placing a fold and crease the edges square of cloth
;

An

corner at the end of the opening, overhand two sides

fold

GUSSETS.

69

on the bias and

hem

the remaining sides over the over-

handing
size,
2.

stitches.

Gusset and facing.

Make

a paper pattern the desired

having the gusset

in the proportions of Fig. 54.

at

the dotted lines (Fig. 54), and place this edge on an exact bias fold of the cloth, which

Fold the pattern

bring the edge of the gusset on a line with a thread of the cloth.
will

Fig. 54.

Showing the

shape of a gusset and facing combined.

Cut the cloth by the pattern, and then cut fourth of an inch to a (Fig. 54).
3.

in

one-

4.

Make
a.

a narrow fold on the inner edges of the facing,

of the gusset

and on the sides

point at
5.

make
in

a fold turned to a

Fold the edges of the opening

the garment.

6.

With the wrong

sides together, overhand the gusset,

in

and then the inner edges of the facing, to the opening the garment.
7.

Hem
?

the opposite edges.

is a gusset? What is its use? How should the hem in the opening be In setting-in a gusset, how is the point brought to the opening ? What kind of stitches are then taken ? What kind of stitches are used after folding the gusset?

What

made

JO

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

PLACKET.

A
of

placket

Materials.

No.
1
.

is

an opening made in a garment.

8 needle, No.

cotton cloth

five

60 thread, and a piece inches square, hemmed on three

sides.

Placket.

At

the middle of the side not

hemmed,

cut three inches by a thread.

2. 3.

Hold the wrong

side of the cloth towards you.

At the

left of

the opening,

make

hem turned

to a

point at the bottom, and one-eighth of an inch wide at the

top.
4.

At the

right,

make

hem

three-fourths of an inch

wide the entire length.

5.

6.

Turn to the right side of the cloth. At the bottom of the wide hem make a

horizontal

crease by a thread.
7.

On

the right side of the opening,

make

a vertical

crease by a thread, three-fourths of an inch from the

edge.
8.

Place the edge of the wide

hem on

this crease.

9.

Holding

the

hem

carefully,

baste

with

small

stitches,
10.

on the horizontal crease.

of stitching,

Make two rows

little

one a

little

below, and

one a
What

above the
?

basting:.
wrong

is

a placket

When

the

side is towards you,

at the left?

How
hem ?

wide at the right?

How many

how wide a hem is made rows of stitching are taken in

tacking the

TUCKING.

71

TUCKING.

tuck

is

a fold

made and sewed

in

garment

for

ornament, or that the garment

necessary.

may be lengthened when

and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and No. 90 thread, a sharp-pointed lead-pencil, and a piece of cotton cloth six inches square, having at one side an inch hem sewed exactly on a thread for a measure, a stiff,
Materials.
8
;

-- No.

smooth piece of paper or cardboard and half-an-inch wide.

three inches long

72
8.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Turn

to the right side, and, holding the

at

hem towards
line of

you,
dots.
9.
if it

crease by a thread

the

first

horizontal

Holding the crease to the is exactly by a thread.

light of the

window, see
third

10.

Make

a crease, by a thread, at the second,

and fourth lines of dots. 1 1 Fold the cloth down

at

the second crease.

Fig. 56.

Showing the tucks

by a thread
at

basted.

12.

Baste

exactly

on

the

first

crease

(Fig. 56).
13.

Fold the cloth

the fourth crease, and baste on

the third crease.

and thread, run each tuck close to the basting, taking up as little of the cloth as possible, and passing over twice as much.
14.

With the

fine needle

Suggestions.
of the cloth,

Tucks

are sometimes

and sometimes across the

made lengthwise cloth. The width

and distance apart are a matter

of choice.

PLAITING.

73

The chief difficulty is in measuring and folding them when it is decided at what distance apart and what width the tucks are to be made, a paper measure can be made as follows. Make a mark as far from the end of the paper, as the sum of the distance apart and the width of the tucks make a second mark beyond the first mark, the width of *he tucks make a third mark as far from the second mark, as the sum of the distance apart and twice the width of the tucks make a fourth mark
;

beyond the third mark, the width of the tucks continue as for the third and fourth marks. When two tucks have been made, the next can be easily marked by folding the
;

wrong
tuck
it

side together at the second tuck,

first

and making

pin-

holes at the folds of the

tuck.

The edge

of

one

may form
better to

the guide for measuring the next, though

mark and baste all the tucks for a short distance. Narrow tucks, one-eighth of an inch apart, are neat and pretty, but must be made very carefully, as the
is

difference of a thread
What
way
is

is

quickly noticed.
use?
?

a tuck?

What

is

its

How
is

should the tucks be sewed?

the chief difficulty in

of the cloth

can they be

made

What

Which making tucks ?

PLAITING.

plait

is

fold

made

in a

garment, for fulness or

trimming.
Materials.

-- No.

8 needle, No. 50 thread,

pins,

and

piece of cloth nine and a half inches long and four inches
wide, with a narrow
Plaiting.

hem

at the

ends and lower edge.

On

the raw edge of the cloth, with the

right side towards you,

measure one inch from the

right-

74

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
it

hand end, and mark

ing a pin vertically.
2.
3.

by cutting a small notch or

left of this.

insert-

Mark every

inch and a half to the

at the first notch,

Fold the cloth

and bring the

fold

to the
4.

edge of the hem.

Insert a pin in the middle of the three thicknesses of
#

cloth.
5.

Fold

at the next notch,

first plait.

and bring

it

exactly to the

underfold of the

Fig. 57.

Showing basted

plaits, half-an-inch

wide.

6.
7.

Place a pin in the middle of the

plait.

Fold and pin the other

plaits in the

same way.

8.

Baste with even stitches, one-fourth of an inch from

the edge (Fig. 57).

Suggestions.
to the left.

Plaits

can be

laid either to the right or

plaits,

There can be spaces between the

or

If the plaits meet, the they can meet, as in Fig. 57. material must be three times the length that is desired,

when

finished.

Box-plaiting

is

made by beginning

at the

fellin<;.

75

middle, and laying a plait to the right, and another to the

left
;

double box-plaiting

is

made by adding more

side-plaits.

What

is

a plait

What

is its

use?

What

different kinds of plaiting are there?

FELLING.

fell is

Materials.

seam hemmed down to protect the edges. No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and No. 80

thread, and two pieces of cotton cloth, each five inches

long and two inches wide.

Fig

58.

Showing the
1
.

seam basted.

Straight-way

fell.

Place the pieces of cloth together,

with one edge one-eighth of an inch below the other, and

baste a narrow seam (Fig. 58).
2. 3.

Sew the seam with a running and a backstitch. Take out the basting thread, unfold the pieces
and lay the seam over, so that the wider edge

of

cloth,

will

be uppermost.
4.

Turn

to the right side,

and press

carefully,

exactly

at the
5.

sewing of the seam.

Make

a narrow

hem

(Fig. 59), tucking the ravellings

under with the point of the needle.

;6
Suggestions.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Hem

fell

cut on

the bias, with the

grain of the cloth, or from the wider part to the narrow,

as drawers

from the top down.

fell

can be made by

Fig. 59.

Showing the

fell

partly

hemmed.

sewing

it

with the edges even, then pare one edge, being

careful to have the right side of the sewing

come on the

upper side of the

fell.

What is a fell? What is What should be the width of

done, after the basting
bias,
is

its

use?

How

are the pieces of cloth placed together?

seam? How should the seam be sewed? What is removed ? What is done next ? How is a fell, cut on the
the

hemmed

FRENCH SEAM.

French seam

is

a neat

manner

of joining materials

that fray.
Materials.

No.
1
.

8 needle,

No. 60 thread,

scissors,

and

two pieces

of calico, each five inches long

and two inches

w ide.
r

French seam. together.

2.
3.

Place the

wrong

sides of the calico

Baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge.

Run

directly

under the basting.

SLIP OR

BLIND-STITCH.

7/

4.
5.

Cut the ravellings from the edges of the seam. Turning the wrong side of the calico towards you,

fold the right sides together,

and crease

at the

sewing

of

the seam.
6.
7.

Baste, so that the raw edges are enclosed.

Half-backstitch

the

seam,

being

careful

that

no

ravellings can be seen on the right side.

Suggestion.

Trimming

can be put on

in this

manner,

having the seam very narrow.

What
Which sides of the cloth should be placed together ? is a French seam ? wide a seam should be made? With what kind of stitches should the seam be
?

How

finished

FRENCH HEM ON DAMASK.

French hemming
Materials.
is

used

in

hemming

table-linen.

-- No. 9

needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip of

cotton cloth or table-linen.

French hem.
2.

Crease a narrow hem.

side towards you, fold
it

Holding the wrong

and crease
fold of the

the cloth, so as to

make

even with the

first

hem.
3.

Proceed as in overhanding.

SLIP OR

BLIND STITCH.
used to fasten a

slip or blind-stitch is

Materials.

No. 9

hem

lightly.

needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip of

cotton cloth.
Slip or blind-stitch.

Fold and crease a

hem

half-an-

inch wide.

yS
2.
3.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Baste about a fourth of an inch from the edge.

Make

a small knot in the thread.

Conceal the knot by drawing the needle through the under part of the fold, one-eighth of an inch from
4.

the end.

and before drawing the needle through, take up one-fourth of an inch of the edge of the fold.
5.

Take up one

or

two threads

of the cloth,

6.

Continue

in this

manner, being careful not

to

draw

the thread tightly.

7.

Fasten securely.

Suggestions.

This

stitch
it

is

used for sewing hems on

this

woollen cloth, where

is

desired to conceal the stitches.

Trimmings
stitch.
For what
is

of silk

and velvet are often put on with

a slip or blind-stitch used?

How

are the stitches taken

EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.

An

edging

is

a trimming on the border of a garment.

Lace Edging.
Lace edging
Materials.

a-yard

9 needle, No. 70 thread, pins, halfof inch-wide lace, and a piece of cotton cloth
long and four inches wide, with a narrow

No.

is

made

of fine threads

woven

into a net.

six inches

hem

at the

ends and upper edge, and an inch

hem

at the

lower

edge.

Lace edging.
you,

make

Holding the scalloped edge towards a narrow hem at the right-hand end of the lace.
1
.

EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.

2.

79
lace

Holding the right sides

of

the

and

cloth

together, place the

hemmed end

of the lace at the top

edge of the upper left-hand corner of the cloth. Holding the lace loosely, lightly overhand the edges 3. to within a fourth of an inch of the corner.
4.

Run

the needle in and out of the cloth, to keep

it

temporarily secure.
5.

Pin the lace at the corner.

Fig. 60.

Showing lace sewed on,

and corners turned.

6.

Measure the width

of the lace,

and leaving twice the

width, pin again at the corner.

7.

One-fourth of an inch beyond the corner, pin the

lace to the cloth.

8.

Run

a gathering thread in the

to the last pin.

edge of the

lace,

from the overhanding

9.

Overhand around the corner, bringing the fulness as

as possible at the corner (Fig. 60).

much
10.

Turn the other corner

in

the same manner, and

finish

by hemming the end of the. lace.

8o
Suggestions.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

-- Lace can be sewed on

it

full

by dividing

the lace and the edge to which

halves,

is

to be sewed, into

quarters, etc.

and running a gathering thread

lace,

through the edge of the

turning corners,
it

before basting
little

it

on.

In

more than twice the width of the lace, as there must be enough on With the outer edge, to prevent the lace from hooping. wide lace, leave more than one-fourth of an inch on each
is

better to leave a

side of the corner, for the fulness of the lace.

When

measuring for the quantity

of

edging needed,

allow enough for the corners.

When

the ends of the lace

meet, join by a

fell.

Hamburg Edging.
Hamburg edging
machinery.
It
is

an

embroidered edge, made by

can
fell

be sewed on, when

no fulness

is

(page 75), a French seam (page 76), a when fulness is facing (page 52), or by overhanding
required, by a
;

required, by a facing (page 52), or

by whipping (page
it

82).

When much

wear
it,

will

come on the edging,

it

is

ad;

visable to overhand

as

can then be easily removed

the raw edge of the

with very fine thread.

Hamburg should first be overcast The corners should be turned, and

the ends sewed, as with lace.

Ruffles.
Ruffles are

made

of various materials,

and are

plaited,

gathered, or whipped.

and No. 9 needles, No. 40, No. 70, and No. 80 thread, pins, scissors, and a piece of cotton cloth six inches long and three inches wide, hemmed at for the facing, a piece of cloth the ends and upper side
Materials.
8
;

No.

EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.

six inches long
ruffle,

and one and a

half inches

wide

for the

a piece of cambric nine inches long and two inches

wide, with a very narrow

ruffle faced on.

hem
Mark

at

the ends and lower edge.

i.

the raw edges of the ruffle

and the

by notches, into halves and quarters. mark the middle of the facing by a notch.
cloth,
2.
3.

Also

Gather the
at the

ruffle.

Place the right sides of the cloth and ruffle together,

and pin
4.

corresponding notches.
the gathering thread, and fasten around the

Draw up

pin.
5.

Adjust the gathers, and run exactly on the gathering

Pin the middle and ends of the facing to the

thread.
6.
ruffle,

and baste.
7.

Turn the other

side towards you, and half-backstitch

close below the running stitches.

cS.

9.

Take out the basting threads. Turn the facing over and crease
Baste and

it

carefully at the

seam.
10.

Suggestions.

hem

the opposite edge of the facing.

ruffle

heading on a

can be made by

folding the required width for the heading, and gathering

it,

making one or more rows as desired. The fulness of the ruffle depends upon the material a narrow cambric
;

ruffle

should be about one and a half times the leno;th of

it

the part to which

is

to

be sewed.

In

making

a ruffle of

more than one breadth, the ends should be joined neatly

before
in

hemming

or gathering.

What is an edging ? Of what is lace edging made ? How should the lace be held overhanding ? What allowance for fulness should be made in turning a corner? How should lace be sewed on, when fulness is required? What is Hamburg edging? In what ways can it be sewed on. when there is no fulness ? When fulness is required ? From what are ruffles made ? What is first done to the ruffle, the cloth, and the facing ?

82

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

WHIPPING.
Whipping
edge of
thread,
Materials.
is

forming gathers by overcasting a rolled

fine material,

pins,

and drawing up the thread. No. 6 and No. 8 needles, No. 40 and No. 60 scissors, a strip of paper, and a piece of

cotton cloth six inches long and four inches wide, with a

narrow hem on the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem
on the lower edge
;

for the ruffle, a piece of plain cambric,

twelve inches long and two inches wide, with a narrow

hem on

the ends and one side.

\
Fig. 61.

jilM--.

..

M. rjlSmz.
rolling

Showing the
1
.

and overcasting of the

ruffle.

Whipping. piece of paper.

2.

Practise rolling tightly the edge of the

It

must be

rolled,

not folded.

Divide the edge of the inch hem, and the raw edge

of the cambric, into halves

and quarters, and mark, one

inch from the edge, by cross-stitches.

3.

4.
5.

Trim the ravellings from the raw edge. Hold the wrong side of the cambric towards you.
Beginning
at

the right-hand corner,

roll

the

first

half-inch of the cambric towards you,

between the thumb

and the forefinger

of the left hand.

WHIPPING.
6.

83
thread, and

Take the coarse needle and

make

a small

knot.
7.

Inserting the needle at the corner, under the

roll,

take one or two stitches, to fasten the end.

between the right thumb and forefinger, and, placing the cambric between the third and little finger of the left hand, draw tightly.
8.

Hold the end

of the roll

9.

Pressing the

left

thumb

against the forefinger, rub

an inch of the edge upwards and downwards, until a

small, firm roll
10.
is

made.
is

Overcast, as far as the cloth

rolled tightly, insert-

ing the needle under the

1

roll (Fig. 61).

it

1.

Draw up
*

the thread, holding

roll is

on a line with the

raw edge.

If

the

small, and the stitches are taken

loosely and at regular intervals, the ruffle will

draw

easily

on the thread.
12.

Continue, rolling and whipping an inch or two

Placing the right sides of the ruffle and

"at

time.
13.

hem

to-

gether, pin the divisions of the ruffle to the divisions of the

hem.
the ruffle to the length of the hem, and wind the thread around the pin. 15. Holding the ruffle towards you, overhand, inserting
14.

Draw up

the needle in each fold of the whipping, so that the thread

will lie
16.

between the folds (Fig. 62). Fasten both the whipping and the overhanding

thread.
Suggestions.

The

fingers should be perfectly clean, to

prevent soiling the work.

take

In whipping,
of

some prefer

to

hemming

stitches

instead

overcasting stitches.

ruffle, for

whipping, should be twice the length of the

4 which
it it

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
is

part to
to

to be

sewed

it is

.sometimes advisable
ruffle cut across

make

more than twice

as full.

the

cloth whips easier than one cut lengthwise.

terial

fine

ma-

whips more readily than a coarse one.

Ruffles

should be cut by a thread, which can be done by tearing,

and then trimming the edges.

Fig. 62.

Showing the overhanding of the

ruffle is

ruffle to the cloth.

It is

best to use short lengths of thread, as a great strain

making a long ruffle, have a thread for each division, and measure as you draw The thread will draw easier, if a large needle the thread.
comes, when the
drawn.
In
is

used.

When

corners are to be turned, allow extra

lie flat

ful-

ness, so that the ruffle will

(page 79).

In over-

handing a ruffle, the garment can be held towards you, but, if the whipping thread should prove too short, there is no way to lengthen it while, if the ruffle is held towards you,
;

the thread can be drawn up or lengthened.

whipping ? In whipping, which side of the ruffle should he held towards do you begin ? What kind of a needle and thread should be used ? How How rolled ? What is done next ? How is the thread drawn ? is the roll held ? How continue? How is the ruffle sewed on to the hem?
is

What
?

you

How

STOCKINET DARNING.

STOCKINET DARNING.
Stockinet

darning

is

used

in

filling

in

a hole with
;

thread, so as to supply the part that has been destroyed

or in strengthening a place which shows signs of weakness.

Practice
Materials.

in

Weaving.

A long-eyed

I
.

needle, a knot of split zephyr,

a sharp-pointed lead-pencil,

and a two and an eighth inch

to

square of cardboard.
Lattice-work.

Turn

the measure (page 13).

2.

On

one side of the cardfrom the

board

half-an-inch

end, and one-fourth of an inch

from the edge, make a dot

with the pencil.
3.

On

a line with this dot,

clots

make
4.

nine more

exactly

one-eighth of an inch apart.

Mark

the opposite side

Fig. 63. =

Showing
lattice-work

the weaving
of

with

dots exactly parallel to

or

threads

over cardboard.

the other dots.

5.

Make

a knot in the zephyr and

work across the

cardboard from dot to dot (Fig. 65), having the stitches on the under side one-eighth of an inch long.
6.

Weave

across these threads by taking up and pass-

ing over a thread alternately (Fig. 63).

of threads
7.

Take

number

on the needle

at once.

Make

the second row by taking up those threads,

which were passed over before.

86
8.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

When
at

the row

is

finished, leave a short loop of the

it

zephyr

the opposite end, and holding

it

firmly,

draw

the zephyr until

9.

is

straight.

Continue

in

this

manner, always taking up the

canvas can

threads passed over in the previous row.

Suggestion.

Coarse

be used instead of

cardboard, and in the place of zephyr, a small cord or

coarse thread can be used.

Stockinet Darning.
Materials.

long-eyed needle, No. 7 needle, No. 50

silk,

thread, scissors, a small spool of embroidery

of cardboard or

a piece

heavy paper three inches long and two

of woollen stockinet,
of the stockinet,

and a half inches wide, and a piece cut four inches lengthwise by a rib
three inches and a half across.
Stockinet darning.

and
the

Place

the

cardboard

on

wrong
2.

side of the stockinet, leaving half-an-inch at each

side to be folded over the cardboard.

Baste one of the lengthwise edges of the stockinet,

it

having
3.

folded exactly by a

rib.

Drawing the stockinet smoothly

rib,

across, fold

the

opposite side by a
4.
5.

and baste.

Fold and baste the ends.

In the centre of the stockinet, cut a circle, three-

fourths of an inch in diameter.

Holding the stockinet lengthwise, begin at the right side, half-an-inch from the edge of the circle (Fig. 64, a). Pointing the large needle from you, take two 7. stitches, leaving half-an-inch of the end of the silk to be
6.

cut off afterwards.

STOCKINET DARNING.
8.

87
you,

With the needle pointing towards

were passed over
in the

make

the

next row of three stitches, taking up the threads of the

stockinet, that
9.

preceding row.

So continue, making each row a little longer at both top and bottom, as in Fig. 64, till the centre of the circle then decrease in the same proportion reached is
;

(Fig.

64).

Fig. b4.

Showing

a hole cut,

and partly darned.

10.

Be

careful to put the needle through the loops of

circle.

the stockinet, at the edge of the

1

Cross the darn

in

the same manner, making per-

fect lattice-work, (Fig. 64).

Suggestions.

The' stockinet
In

is

put on the cardboard to

silk is

keep

it

in place while

being worked, and

easily seen,

used that
the

the stitches

may be

and also that the lesson

a stocking, hold

may be

interesting.

mending

88

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
fingers of the left hand.

work across three

ball

darning

can be used, which prevents the fingers from being

it

pricked, but

is

apt to stretch the stocking and the darn.

either side of the stocking,

The darning can be done on

and should be worked as
of

far as the stocking

first

weakness

it

should

shows signs be worked vertically and

parallel to the ribs of the stocking.

Loops

of about one-

sixteenth of an inch can be

for shrinkage
;

left

at

each end, to provide

stretching the darn slightly,

when

it

is

finished, will take

The edge
a

of

up these loops. a darn must never be made on one thread,

is

as a single thread

not strong enough to bear the strain;

is

diamond

or oval shape

better.

It is

wise to darn a
large

thin
hole,

place before a hole appears.

In

mending a

draw out the rough ends, and, using a

to

fine needle

and thread, bring the loops or threads as near as possible

their

proper position.

To

retain

the

proper

shape of a large darn, begin the crossing

instead of the end.
in color
is

at the

middle

The darning yarn should correspond

If

and quality to the stocking.

too coarse a yarn

used, a hard

bunch

is

made.

For what is stockinet darning used? How should the stockinet be held? Where should the darning begin? How is the first row made? How is the second row made? How continue ? What care should be taken at the edge of the circle? How should a darn be crossed ? In- mending a stocking how should the work be held ?

What

are the best shapes for darning

GRAFTING.

89

GRAFTING.
Grafting
is

joining two pieces of stockinet in such a

manner, as
Materials.

to render the joining invisible.

--

long-eyed needle, two pieces of coarse

stockinet,

and

yarn

the

quality

and

color

of

the

stockinet.
Grafting-.

until

Ravel the two edges that are to be joined, the loops are perfectly even and clear.
I.

Fig. 65.

Showing grafting stitches,

and needle

in

position.

Place the edges together, so that the loops of one are exactly opposite the corresponding openings of the other (Fig. 65).
2.
3.

Holding the right side towards you, work from right

Fasten the end of the yarn, by darning
it

to left.
4.

in

and out
a),

on the wrong side of the stockinet.

Inserting the needle in an upper loop (Fig. 65, bring it out in the next loop (Fig. 65, b).
5.

6.

Inserting the needle in the under loop (Fig. 65,

c)

9<D

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
it

opposite the last upper loop, bring

(Fig. 65, d).
7.

out in the next loop

Continue, taking two upper loops, then two under

loops, using

one new loop each time, which

in

will

cause the

needle to be inserted twice in each loop.

8.

Fasten the yarn, by darning

side.

it

and out on the

wrong
in a

Swiss-darning.

The

stitches in Swiss-darning are taken

manner

similar to grafting, and are

worked over the

in

stitches in the stockinet, to strengthen a thin place.

Suggestions.

A patch
: ;

in stockinet

can be put

almost

invisibly as follows

cut a square or oblong hole in the

stockinet, carefully,

by a thread, and ravel the sides until cut the patch, by a thread, the exact the loops are even graft in the top and size of the hole, and clear the loops
;

lower edges, and

Swiss-darn
five

the

side

edges together,

working over four or

joining.

stitches at each side of the

What

is

grafting

?
?

What

is first

done

How are the edges placed together

?

How

are the stitches taken

How

are the stitches taken in Swiss darning

STOCKING-WEB STITCH.
Stocking-web stitches are used for
stockinet, so as to present the
filling in a

hole in
as the

same appearance

woven

stockinet,

Materials.

and are made on a foundation of strands. A long-eyed needle, No. 7 needle, No. 40
three inches square,

thread, a piece of coarse stockinet

yarn to match

in color

and

quality,

and a piece of card-

board two inches square.

STOCKING-WEB STITCH.
Stocking-web stitches.
net, cut carefully,
2.
3.

91

In the centre of the stocki-

by a thread, an inch square.

side of the stockinet to the card-

Ravel the edges until the loops are clear and even.

With the wrong

board, fold over the edges and baste carefully.

Fig. 66.

Showing the foundation of strands for stocking-web

fine needle

stitches.

4.

With the

and thread, connect the upper

and lower
5.

loops, as in Fig. 66.

Hold the ribs of the stockinet vertically. 6. Having the coarse needle threaded with the yarn, insert it one or two loops to the right of the lower row, and one row above (Fig. 67, a). Swiss-darn (page 90) over these stitches, and work 7.
across the strands with a stitch similar to grafting, insert-

92

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

ing the needle between the strands in beginning and finishing the loop (Fig. 6y).
8.

Finish the row by Swiss-darning over two or three

loops beyond.

Fig. 67.

Showing stocking-web stitches,

and needle

in

position,

9.

Turn the work around, and one row above, work

in a similar

back
10.

manner.
finish

Continue working up the strands, and

by

grafting the last row of loops made, to the loops of the

stockinet.
For what are stocking-web
stitches used
?

On what

are they

made

CLOTH DARNING.

93

CLOTH DARNING.
Cloth darning
is

used to strengthen worn places, or to

of a tear or cut.

draw together the edges

Straightway-Darn.
9 needle, No. 80 red, blue and pink thread, and two pieces of cotton cloth, each three inches
Materials.

No.

and a half square.

-. pj^

thread.

Blue thread.

Fig. 68.

Pink thread.

Showing the cloth

prepared by running
;

lines, for

practice

in

darning a straightway-tear

the blue thread representing the tear.

Straightway-tear.

Darned

with vertical

stitches.

blue thread represents the tear.

1.

Crease across the middle of one of the squares of

cloth.

Leaving an inch and a fourth at each end, make a running on the crease, with the blue thread (Fig. 68). Make two creases, one, one-fourth of an inch above; 3. and one, one-fourth of an inch below the running.
2.

4.

Leaving an inch

at

both ends, make a running on

each crease, with pink thread (Fig. 68).

are boundary lines for the stitches).
5.

(The pink threads

the
left

Hold the

tear over the cushion of

fore-

finger.
6.

Threading the needle with red thread,

a).

insert

it

at

the right of the lower pink line (Fig. 69,

7.

Take

six

running stitches upwards, bringing the

94
needle out a
little

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
below the upper pink
8.

line (Fig. 69, b)

off later.
in-

and leaving an end of the thread to be cut

b

Finish the row, by

serting the needle above the

line
;

draw
line

it

through below
beginning the

the

for

^
Fig.

next row.
9-

69.- Showing

the tear partly

darned with

vertical stitches.

of

Taking up the threads the cloth, which were

line.
it

passed over in the preceding

row, bring the needle out a
10.
little

above the lower pink

line,

Insert

the

needle

below the

and draw

through above the line for beginning the next row.

1 1

Make two

rows, between this row and the end of

the tear.
12.

Beginning the

fifth

row above the lower

line,

put

the needle, at the third stitch,

or tear (Fig. 69,
13.
c).

down through

the blue line

Take two more

Finish the row

stitches,

bringing the needle out

below the upper pink

14.

line.
;

and continue
at

in the

same manner,
stitch,

always

putting

the

needle

the

third

down

through the
15.

tear, to

secure the edges.

the
darn,

In

finishing

make

four rows beyond

the tear.
Straightway-tear.

Darned

7
*,

~J\

with slanting stitches.

1.

r1

rC
V

^
\
\

Crease, and run a square

V
Fig.

of cloth as before (Fig. 68).

2.

~^
-

Threading

the

needle
it

70. Showing

the tear partly

with red thread, insert

at

darned with slanting stitches

a).

the right of the lower pink line (Fig. 70,

CLOTH DARNING.
3.

95

On

a line, slanting so as to cut off one-eighth of an

line,

inch on the opposite

take six running stitches, bring-

ing the
70,
b),

needle

out a

little

below the upper

line

(Fig.

and leaving an end

of the thread to be cut of later.

it

4.

Insert the needle above the line, and pointing

six stitches

towards you, take

on a

line, all

having the
line at

same

slant.

Bring the needle out above the lower

the sixth stitch.

5.

Insert the needle below the lower line and take six

stitches,
stitch,
6.

having the same slant as before

at

the fourth

draw the needle down through the tear (Fig. 70, c). Continue in this manner, always drawing the needle
the tear, at the fourth stitch.
In finishing the darn,

down through
7.

make

several rows

beyond the

tear.

Bias-Darn.
Materials.

Same

as for a straightway-darn (page 93).

Bias-darn, or across both

the

warp and the woof.

blue thread represents the tear.

1.

Crease the square of cloth diago-

nally
2.

from corner to corner.

Leaving two inches

at

each end,

run on the crease with blue

thread.
3.

Make two

creases, one,
;

one-fourth of an inch above

and one,

one-fourth

of

an
Showing
a
a bias-darn,

inch below the running.

4.

Leaving an inch and

fourth at both ends,

make

running on each crease with pink thread

96
5.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

6.

Thread the needle with red thread. At the right, and beyond the blue

line or tear,

make

four rows of eight stitches each, (as for a straight-

way-darn, page 94) on a line with the vertical tJireads of

the cloth (Fig. 71).
7.

Beginning the

fifth

row above the lower

the tear
at

line,

draw

the needle
(Fig.
8.

down through

the fourth stitch

71,

c).

Take three more

line.

stitches,

bringing the needle out

below the upper

9.

Insert the needle above the line, to finish the

it

row

drawing
10.

out below the

in

line for the next row.

Continue

this

manner,

always

drawing

the

needle
11.

down through the

tear, at the fourth stitch.

In finishing the darn,

make

several rows

beyond

the tear.

Corner-Darn.
Materials.

Same
--

as for a straightway-darn (page 93).

Corner-darn.

blue thread represents the tear.

1.

Crease one side of the

i\V>

cloth one inch from the edge.

2.

At

right

angles

with

f-

-^\!
Fig.

the
72.

crease,

make
inch

another
the

Showcloth
for
in

crease
edge.
3.

one

from

ing

the

prepared
practice

Call the vertex of

the

darning a corner-tear, and the

corner darned.

angle a (Fig. 72). 4. With the pink

thread

run on

the

crease,

on both

sides of the
(Fig.
72).

angle,

one and a half inches from point a

CLOTH DARNING.
5.

97
inside

Crease

an

angle

half -an -inch

the

first

angle.
6.

With the pink

thread, run on the crease, on both

sides of the angle, one inch (Fig. 72).

7.

Crease half-way between the two angles, and run with

blue thread.

Using red thread, make a large knot (cut it off afterwards), and insert the needle from the right side, at the The knot is made to aid in drawing corner (Fig. 72, b). up the corner
8.

9.

Run

to

point

a,

putting the needle

down through
b.

the tear, at the fourth stitch.

10.
1 1

Slightly curving to the right, return to point

Make

a row very close and to the

left of

the

first

row, taking the stitches alternately.

12.
13.

Slightly curving to the

left,

return to point
line

b.

At the

left,

make

row directly on a
line.

with a

thread of the cloth, to the outer pink

14. 15.

Make

a curved line at the right to point

b.

On

the opposite side of the corner,

make

row on

a line with a thread of the cloth, as far as the outer pink

line.

16.

Making
b.

line,

curving

to

the

left,

return

to

point
17.

Beginning

at

the corner, darn both sides with ver-

tical stitches

(page 94), or slanting stitches (page 94).

Darning with a Piece Underneath.

In darning a tear, where the garment
is

worn

thin, or is

badly torn and ravelled, a piece of cloth should be placed

underneath.

98
1.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
to

Cut the piece larger than the tear, being careful match the grain of the cloth, also the figures and stripes. Draw the tear into place, and baste the right side 2. the piece to the wrong side of the garment, matching
exactly.
3.

of
it

Baste around the edge of the tear.

4.

Take
If

either vertical stitches (page 94), or slanting

stitches (page 94), through both thicknesses of cloth.

5.

the hole

is

large,

darn the sides of the tear sepa-

rately,

tucking the ravellings under with the point of the

needle, as you
6.

come

to them.
is

After the darn

finished, lightly secure the piece

it "off

on the wrong

side, or cut

near the darning.

Fine Drawing on Heavy Woollen Material.

1

Use very
flat

fine

sewing

silk,

and hold the edges of the

tear
2.

upon the
it

left forefinger.

Inserting the needle half-an-inch below the edge of

the tear, run

cealing the
3.

through half the thickness of

needle
in

cloth, con-

silk.

Inserting the
in

the

opposite

edge,

run

through the cloth

4.
5.

the same manner.

Draw

the edges closely together.

in this

Continue

manner, being careful not to lap the

side.

edges.
6.
7.

Brush up the nap on the right

Dampen, and press on the wrong

better to do the darning on the
is

side with a hot

iron.
It is

wrong

side; but,

if

the garment

lined,

it

may be done on

the right side,

CLOTH DARNING.
being careful to insert the needle
in

99
the cloth exactly

where it came out. Another way to darn a tear on heavy material is to overcast the raw edges closely together, on the wrong side, then rub the seam open and darn lightly.

Lay

a wet cloth over the darn, and press. a perfectly

flat

To make
may be

seam on

sel-

vedges or heavy woollen cloth, the edges

joined, as in Fig. 73.

Suggestions.
is

The aim

in

darning a tear
it

to repair the rent so nicely that

can

not be perceived.
terial,

In darning twilled ma-

instead of taking the stitches alter-

nately,
Fig. 73.

make them

in slanting

rows to cor-

respond with the

twill.

rent should be
silk,

repaired with fine thread or

matching

the material in quality and color

if

the same color can

not be obtained, use lengthwise ravellings of the material.

On

fine

woollen goods, hair can be used, and the needle

should be threaded with the root.

fine a needle as possible

When

darning with

very fine thread or ravellings, use short needlefuls.

should be used.

As

Darning can be done on the right or wrong side, accordFor a tear in coarse material, the ing to the material. stitches should be taken more than one-fourth of an inch from the edge. The closeness of the rows of stitches Edges should depends upon the material and the tear.
always be worked in and out alternately to secure them. Always protect the ends of a tear by darning beyond them.

To keep

the edges of a long tear even,

it

is

best to begin
it

to darn in the middle.

When

a darn

is

finished,

should

IOO

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
side,

be dampened and pressed on the wrong

or a thin,

damp mend

cloth can be laid on the right side and pressed.

To

a rip in the

seam

of a kid-glove,

overhand the edges

there
a strain

together on the right side, using fine thread or sewing silk

matching the color of the glove. coming on the seam, button-hole

If

is

stitch the edges,

and

then overhand the purls of the stitches together.

? How should the tear be held ? Where should kind of stitches should be taken ? What threads are taken up in the second row ? Where should the needle be put at the third stitch in How should the stitches on a bias-darn be taken ? the fifth and succeeding rows ? Where should the needle be inserted in a corner-darn ? Why is a knot made ? How many rows of stitches are made at the corner? What is the aim in darning? What can be used instead of thread ? What should be done after a darn is finished ?

For what

is

cloth darning used

?

the needle be inserted

What

How

should a kid-glove be mended

PATCHING.

patch
it.

is

a piece of cloth, sewed on to a garment to

repair

Hemming on a Patch.
Materials.

No. 9

needle, No. 80 thread, scissors, pins,

;

and a piece

of cotton cloth, five inches square

for the

patch, a piece of cloth four inches square.

Hemming

on a patch.

Crease the garment, repre-

sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the

centre (Fig. 74). Mark the centre by a pin-hole, and half-an-inch from 2.
the centre on each crease,
3.

make

a pin-hole.

Crease a square on a line with the holes, and by a

y

thread (Fig. 74, a b, c, and d). Cut out the square on the creasing, being careful 4.

about the corners.

PATCHING.
5.

101

(Fig.
6.

Cut diagonally one-fourth of an inch at each corner 74, /, 2, J, and 40. Fold and crease each edge of the hole, by a thread,
of the

and baste. Cut off each corner 7.

inch deep.
f\

patch one-fourth of an

-=--

_^

102
i

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
o.

Place the garment on the desk, with the

wrong side

upwards.
1 1

Place the folded edges of the patch upon the gartwo. pieces parallel. in pins.

ment, with the warp of the

12.

Match the

creases,

and put

Fig. 75.

Showing the

right side of a figured-calico patch,

hemmed.

13.

With each edge

;

of the patch

even with a thread of

the garment, baste

turning the corners neatly, by tucking

you, and pin the edges

the extra fold underneath with the point of the needle.

14.

of

Turn the other side towards the hole down at each corner.

15.

Baste, keeping each edge on a thread of the patch.

PATCHING.
16.

I03

Hem
On

the garment to the patch, being careful to

at right angles.

firmly
17.

sew the corners, keeping them

the other side,

hem

the patch to the garment,

little as

allowing the stitches to appear as

right side.

possible on the

Fig. 76.

Showing the right side of a figured-calico patch, overhanded,

Take out the basting
side.

18.

threads, and press on the

wrong

OVERHANDING ON A PATCH.
Materials.

Same

as before, with the cloth for the patch

three inches square.

Overhanding on a patch.

Crease the garment, repre-

104

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the

centre (Fig. 74).
2.

Cut a small piece out

of the centre, to aid later in

cutting the hole.

3.

Cut across each corner

of the patch one-fourth of

an

inch deep.

Fig. 77.

Showing the wrongsideof a figured -calico patch, overhanded.

Holding the wrong side
of the patch towards you,

4.

make
5.

a crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch deep, on

the four sides.

Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.

Place the garment on the desk, with the right side

6.

upwards.

patching.
7.

105

Place the folded edges of the patch upon the gartzvo pieces parallel.

ment, with the warp of the

8.

9.

Match the creases, and put in pins. With the edges of the patch even with the threads
;

of

the garment, baste

turning the corners neatly, by tuck-

ing in the extra fold underneath.

10.

Holding the patch towards you,

fold

and crease the

garment even with one edge of the patch. Holding the two edges securely, overhand them, 1 1 sewing the corners firmly. Fold and overhand the next side in the same man12.
ner,

and so continue,
76).

till

all

the sides are overhanded

(Fig.
13.
14.

Take

out the basting threads.

side towards you,

Turn the wrong

and carefully cut

a hole in the garment, one-fourth of an inch inside the

overhanding stitches.
15.

At each

corner, cut diagonally to the overhanding

stitches. 16.

Open

the seam and overcast

all

the edges (Fig. JJ),

or

work them with the

17.

blanket-stitch.

Dampen

the seams, and press on the

wrong

side.

Catch-Stitching on a Flannel Patch.

Materials.
pins,

No. 9 needle,

fine silk to
five

match the
;

flannel,

and a piece of flannel

inches square

for the

patch, a piece of flannel three inches and a half square.

Catch-stitching

on a patch.

1.

Crease the garment,

represented by the large piece of flannel, through, and

across the centre (Fig. 74).
2.

Mark

the centre by inserting a pin

and one inch

from the middle of each crease, insert a

pin.

io6
3.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Crease a square, by a thread, on a line with the pins. Cut the square out on the creasing, being careful in

4.

cutting the corners.

5.

6.

Crease through, and across the centre of the patch. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side

upwards.

Fig. 78.

Showing the

right side of the patch; the straight lines represent the edges of the hole.

7.

Place the right side of the patch upon the garment,

with the nap of the two pieces running the same way. Match the creases, and put in pins. 8.
9.

With each edge

of the patch

even with a thread

of

the garment, baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge.

PATCHING.
10.

T07

of

Holding the garment towards you, baste one-fourth an inch from the edge of the hole. Draw the needle through the garment from under1 1.
12.

neath, one-eighth of an inch from the raw edge.

Catch-stitch (see page

7)

around the square, taking

the inner stitches through the patch, close to the edge of

Fig. 79.

Showing the wrong side of the patch

;

the straight lines

represent the edges of the patch.

the garment

and the outside stitches one-eighth of an

inch from the edge, and through both thicknesses of cloth

(Fig. 7 8).

Turning the wrong side towards you, catch-stitch in the same manner, the edges of the patch to the garment
13.

(Fig. 79)-

108
14.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Take
side.

out

the basting threads, and press on the

wrong

Suggestions.

In

practical

mending, judgment and conthe object

to replace the

sideration are necessary, and the material should be treated

as

common
worn

sense suggests
part with as

is

torn or

little

display as possible.
:

patch can be put on in various ways

as,

hemming

on the right side and overcasting the raw edges together on the wrong side it can also be put on by stitching.
;

patch can be overhanded on the wrong

side, so that the

stitches

may show

less,

but

the corners are not easily

turned.

Catch-stitching should be used,

when the
it

material

does not easily ravel, as on flannel.

Thin, woollen materials

is

can be hemmed.

When
for, if

a material
it

worn,

is

better to

hem

the patch on,

at

is

overhanded, the strain comes

on one thread

each

side.

and figures should always match, as Care must be taken to otherwise they attract attention. have the warp and the woof of the patch run the same way
Stripes, checks

as those of the garment, the straightest threads of the

cloth generally represent the warp.

The nap must

also

run in the same direction, which can be ascertained by A patch can be either passing the hand lightly over it.
square or oblong, according to the shape of the damaged
part, but should

be large enough to cover the worn place. Fine thread or silk, matching the material, should be used silk should be chosen a shade darker than the material, as
;

it

will

work

lighter.
In

What is a patch? What is its use? the garment should the patch be placed ?

a patch, on which side of overhanding on a patch ? How should the wrong side ef an overhanded patch be finished ? What stitch is used in patching flannel ? Which side of the garment is the patch placed upon ? What is the object of patching ? What care should be taken concerning the warp and the woof ?

hemming on

On which

side, in

BIAS PIECING.

IOQ

BIAS
Bias piecing
cloth.
is

PIECING.
edges of

the joining of two diagonal

Materials.

-- No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread,

of calico five inches square, cut

pins, scissors,

and a piece

by a thread.

Fig. 80.

Showing the

strips placed

in

a line

before joining.

Bias piecing.

Fold

the

square

diagonally,

from

corner to corner.
2.
3.

Crease the

fold,

and cut on the crease.

From each
With the

piece of calico, cut two bias strips, each

being one inch wide.

4.

right sides upwards, place the strips

on the

desk

in a line for joining, as in Fig. 80.

Fig. 81

Showing the two edges

sides of

sewed.

5.

Place

the

right

together, with the edges of

two middle pieces the ends that are to meet

the

even
6

Move

the edge of the upper piece, one-fourth of an

left (Fig. 81).

inch to the

HO
7.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Holding the edges securely, insert the needle at a 81) and sew across to b (Fig. 81), with a running
off the corners that

(Fig.

and a backstitch. Press open the seam, and cut 8.

protrude.
9.

Join

the

other

two

pieces

in

similar

manner,

except that the upper edge must be

Suggestions.

moved

to the right.

seam must be begun at the vertex of one of the angles, formed at the side by the two pieces of cloth, and finished at the
join the ends evenly, the

-- To

other.
easily

When many
and accurately

bias strips are required, they can be

cut,

by measuring

for four widths,

and then cutting into halves and quarters.

What
Where
is

bias piecing
?

Where should you

begin so as to join the ends evenly

finish

PIPING.
Piping
is

a cord covered with material cut on the bias,

to

and

is

used

strengthen

and

finish

the

edge of a

garment.
Materials.

No.

8 needle,

No. 60 thread, a small cord

eleven and a half inches long, a bias strip of cotton cloth

twelve inches

long and one inch wide

and

piece of

cotton cloth eleven and a half inches long, four inches

wide,

hemmed

Piping.

at the

ends and one

side.

Place the cord on the

wrong
the

side of the

bias strip, one-fourth of

an

inch

from

lengthwise

edge, and one-fourth of an inch from the end.

2.

Fold the end of the bias

strip,

and then folding the

edge over, baste close to the cord.

CORNERS MITRED.
3.

II

Holding the cord downwards, place the wrong side of

of the fold

the strip to the right side of the piece of cloth, with the

raw edge
4.

even with the raw edge of the

cloth.

Sew
Turn

the piping to the edge, with a running and a

backstitch, keeping close to the cord.

5.

to the

wrong

side,

and hem the opposite edge

down.
What
is

piping

For what

is it

used

CORNERS
To
mitre a corner
is

ITRED.

to join

two edges

of cloth, so that

they form a right angle.

To mitre Two Strips of Cloth.

60 thread, scissors, and a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread. Fold and 1 To mitre two strips of cloth. crease the square diagonally from corner to
Materials.
8 needle, No.

No.

corner.
2.

Cut

on

the

crease.
3.

From one
strips,

of

the pieces cut two

bias
strip

each
Fig. 82.
in

being one inch

Showthe

wide.
4.

two

ends basted.

Place

the

right sides of the strips of calico

Fig. 83.

Showingthe right

together, so that the two ends are

side of a mitred corner.

exactly even (Fig. 82).

12

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Holding the ends even, half-backstitch, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch from the edge (Fig. 82). Press the seam open, and trim the corners (Fig. 83). 6.
5.

TO MITRE THE CORNERS OF A HEM.

Materials. - - No. 8 needle, No.

60 thread,

pins, scissors,

and a piece
thread.

of cotton

cloth five inches square, cut by a

'

"

l|

HWI ,"
'

l'|

"j

M H IIIII P
'

ii'

11

"

li'iiLi

1'

ii.ini

Fig. 84.

Showing the corner creased

for cutting,

Fig. 85.

Showingthe corner
off

and hems basted.

To mitre the corner

of

a hem. -

Cut

one corner,

one-fourth of an inch deep.

2.

Fold, one-fourth of an inch, the two sides which are

at right
3.

angles with this corner, and crease by a thread.

On

each side

make

a crease,

from the edge

4.
5.

of the fold (Fig. 84),

by a thread, one inch for a hem.

Make Open

a pin-hole
all

where the creases meet (Fig. 84, a). the folds, and make a diagonal crease

across the corner, one-fourth of an inch outside the pin-

hole (Fig. 84).

LOOPS OF TAPE.
6.

113

Cut on the crease. Holding the bias edge of the cloth, at the upper 7. left-hand side, fold and baste, by a thread, the upper hem. Fold and crease the bias edge one-fourth of an inch. 8. Fold the hem at the side, making the edges of the 9.
two hems meet
10.
11.

at a right

angle (Fig. 85).

the

Baste the corner fold and side hem.

Hem
is

the folds down, taking the stitches at

corner fold through only one thickness of cloth.

What
mitreing a corner?

How

are the strips placed together?

How

should

the edges of the two

hems meet

LOOPS OF TAPE.
Fold the middle of the tape so as to

form a point, as
inch,

in

Fig. S6.

Overhand
Fold the
side of the

the inner edges for three-fourths of an

beginning

at the ends.

ends under, one-fourth of an inch, and

place
cloth,

them on the wrong

one-half an inch from the edge.

Baste and
sides.

hem them down on

to the right side,

three
stitch
Fig. 86.

Turn

and

Showinga

the edge of the cloth to the loop.

loop of tape.

PART
ORNAMENTAL

III

STITCHES.

HEM-STITCH.
method of hemming, in which the threads of the cloth are drawn and separated. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a lengthMaterials.
Hem-stitching
is

wise strip of linen crash.

Hem-stitch, from right to
left.

One

inch

from a

lengthwise edge of the

cloth,

draw

out

from

four to six threads (see

suggestions)

according

to the coarseness of the

cloth.
2.

Carefully baste the

to

hem
3.

the

line

thus

Fig. 87.

Showing
left,

from right to

hem-stitching done needle in position.

drawn.

hemming. Pointing the needle towards you, take up three or 4. four cross-threads, and draw the thread through. Put the needle back, take up the same threads, and 5.
Begin
at the right-hand side, as for

insert the needle exactly above in the fold of the

(Fig. 87).

hem

n6
6.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Continue
in the

same manner, drawing the thread

to right.

tight, to separate the cross-threads.

Hem-stitch, from

left

Draw

the threads,

and baste the hem as

before.
2.

Fasten the thread

in the

hem,

at

the

left-

hand
3.
88. Showing
left to right,

side.

Pointing the needle

you,

towards
Fig.

take

up

hem-stitching done
needle
in

three

or

four

cross-'

from
4.

position.

threads.

the

Draw the needle through, and insert it in the fold of hem exactly above where it was inserted under the
Continue
in

cross-threads (Fig. 88).

5.

the same manner, drawing the thread

tight.

Suggestions.

To

thread, one-fourth of

out with the point of

draw the threads, choose a coarse an inch from the edge, and pick it Holding this end with the needle.
it

the right hand, draw

out carefully, continually pushing

left

the gathers towards the opposite end with the

hand.

Should the thread break, hold the cloth to the light, and The chief difficulty again pick out the end of the thread. Threads can be drawn any is in drawing the first thread.
width desired.

Hem-stitching can be done either lengthwise or crossOn fine materials, do not count the wise of the cloth.
threads, as
it

is

too great a strain on the eyes, and for

this reason, school-girls should not

do

much drawn-work.

CATCH-STITCH.

117

CATCH OR HERRINGBONE-STITCH.
Catch-stitch
is

a kind of cross-stitch, used to secure the

edges of flannel.
Materials.

A long-eyed needle, a knot of

split

zephyr,

and a piece of canvas.

I I

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
and pointing
it

insert the needle,

towards you

take up

two threads.
4.

From

the place where the zephyr comes out, count

to the left four threads,

then forward four threads, and

take up two threads as before.

5.

Continue

in

the same manner, making the stitches

;

to the right, then to the left

the zephyr crossing diago-

nally (Fig. 89).

6.

Notice that

the

little

cross

at

one

side,

comes

between the crosses on the opposite side, and that the needle comes out on a line with its insertion for the previous stitch.
7.

Turn the

corner,

by taking a

stitch at
it

the

left,

insert the needle at the right,

left,

and pointing
left

towards the
continue

take up two threads (Fig. 90).

Turn the canvas, and

forefinger,

holding the next side across the

as before (Fig. 90).

Suggestions.

In catch-stitching on
if
it

flannel, small

knots

may be made
stitch.

they can be concealed.

in

When

ending,
last

fasten the thread by running

and out under the

in

The

thread

can be fastened

beginning and

finishing,

with fine

by leaving an end to be sewed over and over cotton on the wrong side.
of a

The raw edge

folding the edge.

hem on

woollen material

may be

fastened by catch-stitches, to avoid the ridge formed by

seam in flannel may be the seam may be folded to one fastened in several ways side, and the edges fastened by a row of catch-stitches the seam may be opened and each edge fastened sepaor, with the seam opened, a row of catch-stitches rately

The edges
;

of a

may be

put

in

the middle.

FEATHER-STITCH.

119

FEATHER-STITCH.
Feather-stitching
Materials.

A long-eyed needle, a knot

is

used for ornamenting garments,

etc.

of split zephyr,

and a piece

of canvas.

120
4.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Draw

the needle out over the zephyr, which

is

held

down by the thumb. From the place where the zephyr comes 5.
two threads
6.

out, count

to the right,

and take a stitch as before.

stitch,

From

the place where the zephyr comes out, count

to the left,

two threads

and take a

being careful to

hold the zephyr

7.

down with

the thumb.

From

the place where the zephyr comes out, count

to the left,

two threads
8.

and take another

in this

stitch.

Continue taking the stitches

Suggestions.

For

way

(Fig. 91,

b).

fastening

the

thread

see catchinto

stitching (page 118).

This stitch
Fig. 91.

may be changed
Whatever the

various designs, as in

pattern,

the stitches should be compact and uniform.

CHAIN-STITCH.
Chain-stitching
broidering,
is

method
the

of

em-

by

which

stitches

resemble a chain.
Materials.

embroidery

silk,

Chain-stitch.

An embroidery needle, and Work towards you,

a strip of cloth.
1
.

holding the cloth over the

finger.
2.

left

fore-

Draw

the needle
at

through from

underneath

the upper end, a short

distance from the edge.

3. Fig.

Holding the thread

thread

to

the

left

92.

in

Showing

chain -stitches,

w jth
the

the thumb, insert the needle where

needle

position,

comes

out,

and

bring

it

KENSINGTON OUTLINE-STITCH.
through one-eighth
of

121

an

inch

below,

and over the

inserting

thread to form the loop.

4.

Continue

in

this

manner,
of

always

the

needle inside the loop of the

to take the

last stitch,

and being careful

same number

threads on the needle for

each

stitch.

Suggestion.

-- Chain-stitching

is

often used for outlining

a pattern.

KENSINGTON OUTLINE-STITCH.
Kensington outline-stitching
stitch forward on the
is

done by taking a long

and a short stitch back-

upper

side,

ward on the under-side

line for

of the cloth,

and

is

used to form a

ornament.

Materials.

An embroidery needle,
silk,

embroidery
cloth.

and

strip

of

Kensington outline-stitch.
forefinger.

Work

from you, holding the cloth over the

left
2.

Draw

the needle through from

underneath, at the lower end.

3.

Insert the needle one-eighth of

an

inch

above,

and

two or three
it

threads to the right, bringing

at

out
Fig. 93. Showing Kensington outline-stitches, needle in position.

the

left

one-sixteenth of an inch
place where
1 1 1 ,

above the
.

the
/-r--

thread
\

comes through the cloth (rig. 93). Continue in this way, keeping the thread to the right 4. of the needle, and being careful not to draw the stitches
tight.

122

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Suggestions.
left

Some

prefer keeping the thread to the

is

of the needle.

Stem-stitching
is

similar to outline-

stitching, except that the needle

put farther back.

BLANKET-STITCH
Blanket-stitching
is

used to secure and ornament the

edges of woollen material.

Materials.

and a

strip of flannel.
i
.

Blanket-stitch.

An embroidery needle, Work from

left

embroidery
to
right,

silk,

holding

the edge of the flannel towards

you.
2.

Beginning

at the corner,

insert the needle one-fourth of

an inch from each edge, and

Fig.

94.

Showing
-

take two running stitches to

the edge,
leaving an end
of

blanket

stitches,

needle

in

position.

the thread to be cut off afterin position for

wards.
3.

This brings the thread

working.

Holding the thread under the left thumb, put the needle in where it was first inserted. needle through and over the thread 4. Draw the
(Fig. 94).

Holding the thread down with the thumb, insert the needle one-fourth of an inch to the right, and parallel with
5.

the previous stitch.

6.

Draw

the

needle

through, and

over

the

thread,

being careful that the thread

the flannel.

lies loosely

on the edge of

BLANKET-STITCH.

12

7.

Continue

in this

manner.

8.

To

fasten the thread, turn to the

last

wrong

side,

take a
the

running stitch under the

thread through, and cut

blanket-stitch.

Draw

it off.

pjg, 95,

Showing blanket-stitches taken

in

different forms.

9.

To

join the thread, put the needle in

under the
it

last

stitch, as in

beginning the work, and draw

lies

out over the

thread that
thread

Suggestions.
is

along the edge.

If

the

not fastened
carefully,

and joined

the symmetry of

the

stitches will be broken.

The

de

of

the
Fig. 96.

stitches

may be

varied
at dif-

Showing
in

a bor-

by taking them
ferent

der of

blanket-stitches,
position.

depth s,

and

needle

leaving spaces between, as in Fig. 95.

pretty border can be

made with

this stitch (Fig. 96),

by making the first row the desired width from the edge, and taking the stitches for the second row through those of the first row, and so on.

124

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

EMBROIDERY KNOTS.
Embroidery knots are used for ornamentation. An embroidery needle, embroidery Materials.

silk,

and a piece

of flannel.

Embroidery knot No.

the
flannel

1.

i.

Holding

over

the

left

forefinger,

draw the needle through from underneath,

at

the place desired

for

the

knot.
2.

Take

a small backstitch leaving

the needle half-way through the flannel.

3.

silk,

Take the where it

Fig. 97.

Showing emknot No. the needle

I

comes through the flannel, and wind

it
,

broidery

twice around the

and

in

position.

needle (Fig. 97). Holding the 4.

thumb, draw the needle through and insert it where it came through the flannel, bringing it out where the next knot is to be
coil

under the

left

Fig. 98.

Showing
knot
the

em2,
in

Embroidery knot No.

the
flannel

2.

broidery
1.

No.

Holding

and

needle

over the

left

forefinger,

position.

draw the needle through from underneath,

desired for the knot.
2.

at

the place

Draw

the silk towards you to the

silk

left

holding

it

under the thumb, bring the

to the right,

and cross
a).

below where the silk came out of the flannel (Fig. 98, Hold the loop thus formed under the thumb.

MARKING.
3.

125
a,

Insert
it

the
a,

needle one or two threads back of

bring
4.
5.

out at

and pass

it

through the loop (Fig.

98).

Draw

the needle and silk out straight upwards.

a,

Insert the needle again at

is

and bring

it

out where

the next knot

to be

made.

MARKING.
of of

Page 126 consists of capital letters small letters and upright numerals

page 127 consists page 128 consists

small letters, suitable for fine material, and slanting

numerals.

The material, thread and needle should correspond. The marking stitch consists of a cross-stitch taken over two threads of the canvas. To make the stitch, draw the
needle through from underneath at the lower right-hand corner of the square for the stitch
;

insert the needle at

it

the upper left-hand corner, bringing

left-hand corner
;

out at the lower

insert the needle at the upper right-hand

it

corner, and bring

out at the lower right-hand corner of

the next stitch.

Make no

knots, but leave an end of the thread to be

worked over with the first stitches, or it can afterwards Fasten the thread in be run in and out under the letter. The stitches should all be crossed the the same manner. same way the thread should be fastened after finishing Have the back a letter, not carried from one to another. of the work look neat. When marking on canvas is understood, fine material can be easily marked, by basting a piece of scrim over the
;

place to be worked, and, after taking the stitches, draw-

ing out the threads of the scrim.

126

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128

PART

IV.

DRAFTING, CUTTING, AND MAKING

GARMENTS.

A A

few general directions for the cutting of garments

table or lap-board, large

are here given.

enough
also

to lay the entire

pattern

upon,

is

required

paper,

sharp

shears,

weights, pins, tape-measure, needles, and thread.

The

first

thing to be observed in cutting

is

whether the

cloth has a right and a

wrong

side.

If

it

has a design,
;

consider the heavier part as the bottom

a vine should

run upwards
wards.

the nap on

the cloth should

run down-

Before cutting, ascertain

if

there

is

sufficient cloth

by

laying the different parts of the pattern upon the cloth in

such positions, that the cloth

will

not be unnecessarily

wasted

being careful

in

regard to the up and

is

down

of

the cloth.

When

there

scarcity of material,

the

underneath parts of the sleeves may be pieced, hems may

be faced, and the small pieces
trimmings.

may

often be used for the

The
front,

length of the main parts of a garment (as back,

and sleeves) should be cut parallel to the selvedge or warp of the cloth. Fig. 102 represents a wrapper placed on cloth, which is folded lengthwise through the
129

130

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
is

middle; the edge of the front

placed on the selvedge, and

the back on the fold of the

cloth, to avoid a

seam

at

the
ver-

back of the
tical

skirt.

The

perforations in the side-

back and both portions of the

sleeve are placed lengthwise
of

the cloth.

The
the

perfora-

tions near the edges of the

patterns

show

seams,

where alterations should be made. The perforations near

the centre of the front indicate

where the darts should

be taken up.
In cutting plain goods, two
similar parts can be cut at

once by folding either the

right or the
;

wrong

sides to-

gether the selvedges or edges

of the material should first be

pinned together to prevent

slipping.

When the cloth can

doubled, great
to

not be

care
cut

must be taken not

the same side

similar parts (as sleeves) for

;

this can al-

ways be avoided by laying one part upon the material,

with
either

the

right

or

Fig.

102.

Wrapper.

wrong sides together. Having the cloth spread

DRAFTING, ETC., GARMENTS.

out evenly, place a weight or insert a pin at the middle

of each part of the pattern.

Smoothing out each

part

from the middle, pin

one
at

it

to the cloth, being careful to place

pins closely at the middle of the darts, at the curves, and

each corner of the pattern.

Cut evenly and

close to

the edge of the pattern, and be very particular at the curves.

Linings should be cut and basted carefully on to the

wrong

side of the cloth, before cutting the cloth.

The
in

notches on the edges of the pattern should only be cut

the lining.

In cutting linings or unlined garments, the marks for

the seams

may be made by

a tracing-wheel, or they

may
of

be pricked with a large needle.

tions, a pencil or chalk

Where
used.

there are perfora-

may be

When

two parts

garment are cut

used,

at once, especially

on woollen materials,
both

the following tailor's method of marking the perforations

may be
the

pin

the pattern securely through

thicknesses of cloth.
first stitch in

With

a coarse, doubled thread take

the centre of the perforation and through

;

both thicknesses of cloth

place, and, in

take another stitch in the same

drawing the thread through, leave a loop the

size of a pencil.
stitch, leaving

At the next
until
all

perforation

make

a similar

the thread loose between the perforations, the perforations are marked.

and so continue,

Then

cut out the parts, separate the

as far as the thread will

two edges of cloth, permit, and carefully cut the

Cut the long
the middle, and remove the
left

threads
stitch

midway between the two edges.

side, in

on the upper

paper pattern.

The threads

in

the cloth serve as a

guide for basting.

Matching.

A plaided,

striped, or figured cloth requires

great care in cutting.

If

the breadths of a skirt

made

132

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
off in

from a checked or evenly plaided material are cut

the middle of a check, the breadths will readily match.

In other plaids or designs, cut the lower edge of each

breadth on the same line of the plaid or design.

front, first decide
will look best for

In cut-

ting a garment, similar to a dress-waist, which opens in

what part

of the plaid, stripe, or design

the middle of the front and back.

Then
the

lay the pattern for the front on the cloth,

so that

outer fold of the

of

hem

is

one-eighth of an inch (or one-half

the width to be lapped) beyond the middle desired.

this side out,

Cut

and cut the other half

of the front,

by

laying the part already cut on the cloth, with the right
sides together,

and plaids or designs exactly matching.

for the

Lay the pattern

back on the
is

cloth, so that

the

back edge of the pattern

the middle desired
;

one-fourth of an inch beyond

this allows for the

seam.

Cut the

other half of the back as in cutting the second half of the

front.

In order to cut twilled material on the bias, with the

twill

perpendicular,
twill.

the cloth must be folded at right

angles to the

To do

this, lay

the cloth lengthwise

on the

table,

with the right side downward, fold over the

fold.

lower right-hand corner, and cut on the

Linings for

broad hems or a curved edge

the bias (see page
1

(as a hat)

should be cut on

1).

Cotton

cloth,

calico,
is

or flannel

may be

torn (page

9),

when
first

a straight edge

required
116),

linen should be cut by

drawing a thread (page

Drafting.

The
in

following rules for drafting are given

as suitable in ordinary cases, but the drafter should use

discretion
styles.

regard

to

personal

taste

and

prevailing-

TWO-BREADTH APRON.
In the illustrations,

33

each square represents an inch.

Dots are marked by

letters, lines are

is

marked by numbers.
placed in any

Remember

that the dot

the important mark, the letter

being but a name to the dot, and

convenient position near the dot.

may be

TWO-BREADTH APRON.

A
1.

two-breadth apron, one yard long, having a four inch

hem, requires two and one-fourth yards of material. Find half of the length of the material, tear across,
Fold the lengthwise
edges of one of the
pieces
or fold and cut on the fold.
2.

together.
3.

One and

one-half inches each side of the fold, tear

the entire length, or fold again one and one-half inches

from the edge of the fold and cut both

material on the last fold.

thicknesses of

This gives a
of the

strip for the bind-

ing and the two side-breadths.

Making.
desired,

Sew the

raw edges

side-breadths to
If

the front-breadth, thus avoiding a seam in the middle.

hem

the sides.

Make
the

a four inch

lower

edge, overhanding

ends of the

hem hem
it

at

the

before

hemming.

Gather the upper edge and put

into the

band, being very careful to sew securely at the ends of

where a strain comes. The fulness of the gathers depends upon the width of the material and the form of the person. Overhand the edges of the band together on each side of the gathers. If strings are desired, they should be cut before sewing the breadths together. Make a narrow hem at the sides of the
the gathers, as this
is

134
strings,

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
and a broader hem
at

the lower end.

;

Gather, or
insert

lay small plaits, at the other

in the

end of the strings

them

ends of the band, and

hem

the band over them.

CHILD'S BIB.

Take
i

a piece of paper fifteen inches long and eleven

inches wide.

of

With the long side of the paper horizontally in front you, write your name and school at the upper left-hand
.

corner of the paper.

2.

Fold the lengthwise

edges together, so that the

name shows.

POCKETS.
8.

I35

Cut on the curve.

Making.
edge.

Make

straight edges at

narrow hem on the sides and on the the top, and an inch hem at the lower
a

Bind the curve with

at

narrow linen tape, leaving

enough

each end for strings.

POCKETS.
Take
wide.
1

a piece of paper fifteen inches long and six inches

Place .the narrow side of the paper horizontally in

front of you.
2.

Write your name and school

at the

lower part of the

lower

paper.
3.

Make
;

a dot six
it

inches from

the

left-hand

corner
4.

mark

(Fig. 104).

Make

a dot one inch to the left of the upper right;

hand corner
5.

mark

it

B.

6.
7.

Make a dot four Draw from A to Draw from B to

Cut on the outer

inches exactly below

C.
C.

mark

it

C.

8.

lines.
is
;

Making.

--When

the skirt

made

of

wash

material,

make

the pocket of the same

for woollen material, use

strong silesia or cambric.

Place the longest side of the

the material, and then

pattern on a lengthwise fold of

cut.

When

the pocket

is

made

of material different

from

the skirt, each bias edge should have a facing, two inches
wide, like the material of the skirt.

Baste the facings at

at the inner

the outside

edges,

and hem them

edges.

136

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Fold the edges of the pocket together, with the facings on

the outside.
(Fig.
104),

Beginning one-fourth

of

an inch below

make

French seam

at the side

and across

the lower edge of the pocket.

six inches

On

the bias edge measure

this point, stitch to

from the seam, and from

(Fig. 104).

Turn the pocket

inside out.

In a seam of

the skirt, beginning four and a half inches from the binding (this distance depends upon the length of the arm),

make

slit six

inches long, and fasten each end securely.

CHILD

DRAWERS.

37
it

a small plait at the upper end of the pocket,

and tack

securely to the binding.

Fig. 105
is

to

shows another way of cutting a pocket, which be inserted in the opening of the skirt between A

and B.

CHILD'S DRAWERS.
(Age, 8 Years.)

Take
1.

a piece of paper

twenty-two inches long and four-

teen inches wide.

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in

front of you.

Write your name and school two inches from the left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the
2.

lower edge.

Under the name

of

the school, put in a

;

column the words, waist measure, twenty-two inches leg measure, seventeen inches knee measure, thirteen inches. Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the upper right3. hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, and the lower
;

right-hand corner
4.
5.

(Fig. 106).

6.
7.

Make Make Draw

two inches above a dot two inches above

a dot

mark it E. mark it F.
this
is

a dash-line from

E to

F. line
;

Fold the paper under on the

for the

hem.
8.

Make
it

a dot seven and one-half

inches

above F\

mark
9.

G.
;

10.
1 1

Make a dot three inches below A mark it H. Make a dot four inches to the left of B mark Draw a line from to /.
;

it /.

138
12.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

13.

Draw Make
;

a line from

to

/.

a dot eight and one-half inches to the right

it_/.

of

E
14.

mark

Draw
A

a light dash-line from

X.

J.

NIGHT-DRESS YOKE
Making.

39

For

drawers this

size,

one and one-fourth

yards of material are required.

Fold the cloth lengthwise

fourteen inches from one of the edges, and pin the thicknesses of cloth together at the selvedge edge. Unfold
the hem, and lay the longest edge of the pattern on the
fold,

with the lower edge at the raw edge of the cloth. Carefully pin the pattern on, and then cut. Remove the
it

pattern, lay

on the other end of the cloth

leg.

in

the same

For an opening at the on each fold seven and one-half inches deep. Cut two lengthwise bindings, each three inches wide and twelve inches long. The lower edge is cut by a
side,

manner, and cut the other

cut a
slit

thread
little

begin there to baste, and,

it

longer than the other, pare

one side proves a off. Sew each leg as

if

far as

(Fig. 106).

Place the right sides of the legs

together,

with the seams exactly meeting.

Turn one

seam

to the right,
at

Beginning

and the other to the left, and pin. G, sew the upper portions together. Fold
leg.

and sew the hem of each make narrow hems and set
openings

At

the side openings,

If

in gussets.

preferred, the

may be

faced or bound.
side,

each end, gather each

Leaving two inches at and put on the bindings,

allowing more fulness at the middle.

NIGHT-DRESS YOKE.
(Bust Measure, 32 Inches.)

Take a

piece of paper seventeen inches long and nine

inches wide.
Place the long side of the paper horizontally in front of
you.

140

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
left-

Write your name and school three inches from the

hand side
edge.
Front.

of the paper,

and three inches above the lower

i.

Draw

a vertical dash line one and one-half

inches from the left-hand side of the paper.

2.

Fold the paper under on the

line, this

is

for

the

hem.
3.

Mark

the upper left-hand corner of the paper A,

the upper right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner

C,

the lower right-hand corner

(Fig. 107).

NIGHT-DRESS YOKE.
9.

I4I

Draw an

inward-curving line from

F to G

allowing

seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

10.
line.
1 1

Continue the curved

line to

E.

Erase the dash-

Make
it

a dot one-half of an inch from line

/,

and one
;

and one-fourth inches from the upper edge of the paper

mark
12.
13.

H.

Draw Make
;

a line from

E to

H.
from
line /,

a dot one-fourth of an inch

and

one and three-fourths inches above the lower edge of the

paper
14.

mark

it /.

Draw an inward-curving
in Fig. 107).

line,

from

H
to

to

/,

(see

shape
15. 16.

Drawa

light dash-line

from

C to

/.

Draw an outward-curving line, from C

/,

allowing

three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.
17.

Erase the

18.

Mark Mark

a notch on the curved line, one inch

from E.

a notch on the curved line, one inch from

H.

The notches show where

taken.

the shoulder-seam should be

Back.
2.

Make
a
clot

a dot two inches below

mark

it

J.

Make

one inch below the upper edge of the

two and one-fourth inches from the righthand edge mark it K. Draw a light dash-line from y to K. 3. Draw an inward-curving line from J to K, allowing 4.
paper, and

three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.
5.

Erase the

Make
;

a dot one-fourth of an inch from line

/,

and

three and one-half inches below the upper edge of the

paper

mark

it

L.

142
6.
7.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Draw Make

a line

from

K to L.
/,

a dot, on line
;

one-half of an inch above the

it

lower edge of the paper

8. 9.

mark

M.
to

Draw a light dash-line from L to M. Draw an inward-curving line from L

M, allowing
Erase the

seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.
10.
1 1

12.
13.

Draw Mark Mark

a line

from

D to

M.

a notch on the curved line, one inch from L.

a notch on the curved line, one inch from K.

Without unfolding the hem at the front, cut the patterns on the outside lines, making the notches small.

CHILD'S SACK TIER

(Age,
2

Years.)

Take
wide.

a piece of paper one yard long and twelve inches

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front

of you.

Mark

the upper left-hand corner A, the upper

right-hand

corner B, the

lower left-hand corner

(Fig. 108).

C,

the

lower right-hand corner

Front.

Make
it

clot

twenty-one and one-half inches

above C\ mark
2.

E.

Make

a dot two inches above

one and one-half

it,

inches to the right of this dot and parallel with

make

another dot
3.

mark

it

F.

4.

Draw Draw

a light dash-line from

E to

F.

an inward-curving line from

E to

F, allowing

three-fourths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.

Erase the

CHILD

SACK TIER.

143

144
5.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Make

a dot three and one-half inches to the right of

F and

parallel with
;

make another clot Draw a line from 6. Make a dot three 7.

of

F; one inch mark it G.

.Fto G.

exactly below this dot

inches exactly below

of this

one-half

an inch to the
it

left

dot

make another

dot

mark
8.

H.
to

9.

Draw a light dash-line from G to H. Draw an inward-curving line from G

H, allowing
Erase the

three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.
10.
allel
1 1

Make

a dot two inches to the right of H, and par-

with

';

mark

it

/.

Draw an
in

inward-curving line from

to

(see

shape
12. 13.
14.
1

Fig. 108).
;

5.

Make a clot two inches above D mark it/. Draw a line from I to J. Draw a light dash-line from C to J. Draw an outward-curving line from C to J, allowing
Erase the dash-

one-half of an inch curve at the middle.

line.

Sleeve.

Make
;

a dot ten and one-half inches below

parallel with
it,

one inch to the right of this dot and

make another clot mark the last dot K. 2. Make a dot three inches below A mark it L. Draw a line from A' to L. 3. Make a dot one inch above L four inches to the 4. right of this dot and parallel with it, make another dot mark it M. Draw a light dash-line from L to M. 5. 6. Draw an inward-curving line from L to M, allowing
; ;

three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.

Erase the

CHILD
7.

SACK TIER.

45

Make
with

a dot five inches to the right of

;

allel
8.

M and
TV",

par-

mark

it

N.

9.

Draw a light dash-line from to N. outward-curving line from Draw an

inch

to

allowing

one and one-fourth

the dash-line.
10.
1 1

curve at

the

middle.

Erase

Mark Make

a notch at the middle of this curve.

a dot

and
12.

parallel

two and one-half inches to the right of with X\ one and one-fourth inches
clot

exactly below this

make another

dot

mark

it

O.

13.

Draw Make
and

a slightly inward-curving line

from TV to O.

a dot nine and one-half inches to the right

of A",
14.
1

parallel with

mark
to P.

it

P.

5.

Draw Draw

a line from
a line

from

K to P.

Take
wide.

a piece of paper one yard long and eleven inches

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front

of you.

Mark
1
.

the lower left-hand corner

A
;

mark the
it

lower right-hand corner B.

Back. 2. 3.

Make

a dot one inch above

mark

C.

Draw a light dash-line from B to C. Draw an outward-curving line from B

an inch curve
at

to C, allowing

one-fourth of
dash-line.
4.

the middle.

Erase the

Make
it,

a dot eighteen inches exactly above

this dot,

three

and one-half inches to the right of

with
5.

and

parallel

6.

make Draw a Make a

another dot
line

mark

it

D.

from

to D.

dot one inch to the right of

and

parallel

I46
with

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

two and one-half inches exactly above

;

this dot

make another dot mark it E. Draw an inward-curving line from 7.

in Fig. 108).
8.

D to E (see shape
right of E,

Make

a dot

three

inches to the

and

parallel with this dot,

9.

one and one-half inches exactly above

;

10.

make another dot mark it E. Draw a line from E to F. Make a dot one inch exactly below
and
parallel with
it

';

two inches

to the right of this dot,

it,

make another

dot

mark

G.

1 1

12.

Draw a light dash-line from F to G. Draw an inward-curving line from F to

G, allowing

three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

dash-line.
13.

Erase the

Make
mark
it

a dot one and one-half inches to the right of

one-fourth of an inch above this dot

;

make another
H.

dot

14.
Cuff.
2.

H. Continue the curved

1.

line

from

G to

Make

a dot four inches above

mark

it /.

Make Draw Make Draw Make Draw

a dot six

and one-half inches to the

left of

and
3.

parallel with /;

a line

mark it J. from / to J.

a dot four inches exactly above

mark
L.

it

K.

a line from

J to

K.

a dot four inches above /; a line from

mark

it

K to

L.
at the

Write your name and school

pattern.

lower part of each

Cut each pattern

Lay the longest side of the front pattern on Making. Fold the sela lengthwise fold of the cloth, and cut.

out,

on the heavy

lines.

CHILD

SACK TIER.

147

vedges of the cloth together, lay the longest side of the back pattern on the selvedge edge, and cut the two backs
at

once.

With the

right

sides

of

the

cloth

folded

together, lay the lower edge of the sleeve pattern on a

woof thread of the cloth, and cut two sleeves at once. Lay the narrow edge of the cuff pattern on a woof thread of the cloth, and cut one cuff cut the other cuff in a
;

similar manner.
side of

Baste an inch and a half

in

hem

at

each

the

opening

the

back

baste the side

and

shoulder-seams together, allowing half-an-inch seam.

the tier on,

Try

sew the
the

make any alterations necessary, and then Make an inch hem at the lower edge. seams.
sleeve together,

Sew each

making a narrow seam.

Gather

upper edge of each sleeve, leaving a space of two inches each side of the seam. Gather the lower edge of
each sleeve, leaving a space of an inch and a half each
side of

the seam.

Sew

the narrow edges of each cuff

Holding the right sides together stitch the cuffs to the sleeves. Fold the cuffs over, and hem on the wrong side at the stitching. Holding the sleeve towards you, with the upper part of the sleeve marked (Fig. 108) towards the front, and with the notch at the shoulderseam, sew the sleeve in. Bind or face the neck. Make
together.

the button-holes, and put on the

desired

buttons.

If

strings are

make them each

;

three inches wide

plait, insert

and threethe strings

fourths of a yard long

laying a

into the side- seams five inches

below the arm-scye.

I48

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

GORED
To make

SKIRT.

a gored skirt one yard long, having a four

inch hem, three and one-third yards of material, one yard

wide are required. 1

inches long.
Front-breadth.

Tear

off

three breadths, each forty

Fold the lengthwise edges of one

of the breadths together.

2.
3.

Hold the folded edge towards you.

Make
Make
;

a dot at the right-hand side, ten

and one-half and

parallel

inches above the folded edge;

4.

mark

it

A.

a dot four inches to the left of

it

with
5.

A mark
Make

B.

This

is

for the

hem.

a dot at

the left-hand side, eight and oneit

half inches
6.

above the folded edge; mark

C.

Make

a dot on the folded edge, one-half of an inch

from the left-hand end; mark it D. Cut straight from A to B. 7.

8.

Fold the cloth from

to C,

and cut on the

fold.

9.

Cut from

to I), slightly curving inward.

1.

Side-breadths.--

Fold the lengthwise edges

of

an-

other breadth together.

2.
3.

Hold the selvedges towards you.

Make

a dot at the right-hand side, sixteen and one-

half inches
4.

from the selveclges

B.

mark

it

A.

Make
;

a dot four inches to the left of A, and parallel

it

with
5.

A mark
Make

a dot at the left-hand side, thirteen and oneit

half inches
6.

from the selvedges; mark Cut straight from A to B.

1

C.

This

may be

cut from paper

if

desired.

DRAWERS.
7.

I49

Fold the cloth from

Back-breadth.
wide.

Cut

to C,

and cut on the

fold.

this

breadth thirty (or more) inches

Cut the band three and one-half inches wide, and one
inch longer
(to

allow for lapping and making) than the

waist measure.

In a gored skirt, the bias edges should be Making. towards the back. Place the straight edges of the side-

breadths to the front-breadth, and pin them together at

the ends and in the middle.

In sewing the seams, hold

it

the bias edge towards you, fulling

a little

if

necessary;

or the bias edge can be held smoothly, afterwards cutting

off the extra, length
at

the lower edge.

Sew

the back-

breadth to the side-breadths in a similar manner.

each seam for the fulness.

Make

a four inch ^iem at the lower edge, laying a small plait

at

In the middle of the backin

breadth make a placket ten inches

length.

Put the
at

upper edge into the band, allowing more fullness

the

back than

in

the front.

DRAWERS.
(Age, 12 Years
i
.

and Upward.)

Place the narrow side of a sheet of drafting-paper

horizontally in front of you.

Write your name and school five inches from the left-hand side of the paper and five inches above the lower
2.

edge.

Under the name

of the school, put in a

column the

words, waist measure, leg measure and knee measure.

3.

Take the waist measure

tightly,

and record

it.

I50
4.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Take the

leg measure from the side of the waist to

it.

the side of the knee, and record

5.

Take the measure around the knee, and record

it.

6.

Make

a dot one inch from the left-hand side of the

paper, and two inches above the lower edge;

(Fig. 109).
7.

mark

it

From

vertical)

draw an oblong (having the longest side four inches longer than the leg measure, and four
dot

inches wider than half the waist measure.

8.

Mark

the perpendicular line at

left

/; the

upper

horizontal line 2\ the perpendicular line at right J; the lower horizontal line ^.
9.

Make

a dot on line

/,

four inches below the junction

and 2\ mark it B. 10. Find half the waist measure, and make a clot on line 2 this distance from the junction of lines / and 2\
of lines /

mark
1 1

it

C.

mark it D. 12. a dot two inches exactly below D\ mark it E. a line from B to C; mark it 5. 13. a line from B to E; mark it 6. 14. Find half the leg measure, and make a clot on line J 5. this distance from the junction of lines J and </; mark it F. 16. Make a dot on line </, from A, two inches more than half the knee measure; mark it G.
a dot one inch to the left of C;
1

Make Make Draw Draw

17.
18.

Draw a light dash-line from C to F. Draw an outward-curving line from C

mark
it

to E, allow-

ing one-inch curve at the middle;

clash-line.
19.

7.

Erase the

20.

Draw a light dash-line from E to F. Draw an inward-curving line from E

mark
it

to F, allowing
8.

half-an-inch curve at the middle;

dash-line.

Erase the

DRAWERS.

151

152
2
1

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
.

22.

Draw a light dash-line from F to G. Draw an inward-curving line from F to

at

G, allowing

two inch curve

23.
24.

the middle;

mark

it

g.

Erase the

dash-line.

Fold the paper under on line

^, for

the hem.

Without unfolding the hem, cut the pattern on the Trace lines 6 and 8. outside lines.
Making.

Fold the

cloth lengthwise, the width of the

pattern from one of the edges, and pin the thicknesses

of cloth together.

Unfold the hem, and lay the longest

Pin the pattern on, and trace

side of the pattern on the fold, with the lower edge at

the raw edge of the cloth.

lines

Cut both thicknesses of cloth at the edges of the pattern, and remove the pattern then cut the upper fold of cloth on the traced lines, this is for the front. Cut the other leg by laying the leg already cut on the cloth, right sides together, and the lower edge on a woof thread
6 and
8.
;

of

the cloth.
it

having

Cut a binding lengthwise of the cloth, three inches wide and the length of the waist
to

measure, allowing one inch for lapping at each opening.

They may be made

open

in

the back or at the side.

When
for

tucks are to be made, allowance must be

cloth.
If

made

them before cutting the

open drawers are

desired, face

the upper portions of the legs; otherwise

make them according

avoid fulness at
a yoke.

on page 139. To the waist, the gathers can be put into

to the directions

CHILD

WAIST.

53

CHILD'S WAIST (opening

in

the back).

(Age, 3 to 10 Years.)

Take
1

a piece of paper sixteen inches long and twenty

inches wide.
Place the long side of

the paper horizontally

in

front of you.
2.

Write your name and school three inches from the

left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the

lower edge.
a

Under the name

of

the school, put in a

column the words, waist measure, bust measure, length from tape to back of neck, length from tape to waist,
length of shoulder.

Take the waist measure, and record it. Take the bust measure by putting the tape-measure 4. around the body close under the arms; pin the ends to3.

gether at the middle of the chest.

leaving the tape
5.

Record

this measure,

still

in position.

Measure from tape to the bone in the back of the neck, and record it. Measure from tape to waist, and record it. 6. Measure the length of shoulder, and record it. 7.
8.

Draw Draw

a horizontal dash-line nine inches above the

it

lower edge of the paper; mark

9

/ (Fig.

10).

a vertical line

two inches from the left-hand

it

edge of the paper.; mark

10.

2.

Draw

a vertical dash-line one inch

it

to

the right

of line 2;
1 1

mark

J.

This allows for the hem.

at
</.

Find one-half of the bust measure, and distance from line J draw a vertical line; mark it
12.

this

Bisect the distance between lines

J and 4,

and

half-

154
an-inch to the

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
left of

the middle draw a vertical dash-line;

dash-line from line
/,

mark
13.

it

5.

as
to

Draw a horizontal many inches above line

;

to line 4,

as

is

the measure "from tape

neck"
14.

mark

it

6.

Draw
it

a horizontal dash-line from line

/,

to line ^,

as far below line

as the

measure "from tape

to waist";

mark

7.

CHILD
2.
it

WAIST.

55

Make Draw

a dot at the junction of lines

J and
to

6;

mark

B.
3.

a slightly curved line from

(see Fig.

10).

Shoulder.
to line 5>
2.

Draw

a horizontal dash-line from line

line 6;

on e and one-half inches below

mark

it p.

Place the end of the ruler on A, and, bringing the

<?,

shoulder measurement to meet line

it

make

a dot;

mark

C.
3.

Draw
5 Draw
;

Arm-scye.

a straight line from

1
.

to

6".

Make
it

a dot half-an-inch below line

/,

on

line
2.

mark

D.

a curved line from

C to

(see Fig.

no).

Front.
Neck.

Make
</,

a dot two and one-fourth inches to

line 6;

the
2.

left of

line

and one inch above

mark

it

E.

On

line

4 make a dot one and one-half inches below

it

line 6;
3.

mark

F.

Draw

Shoulder.

a curved line from

1
.

E to F (see

Fig.

10).

Place the end of the ruler on E, and,

6,

bringing the shoulder measurement to meet line

a dot;
2.

make

mark

it

G.

Arm-scye. To
line

Draw

a straight line from

E to

G.

complete the arm-scye, draw a curved

(see shape in Fig.

from

Waist.

to
1
.

D
If

no).
is

the waist measure

less

than the bust

measure, divide their difference by two, and make a dot

this

distance on line 7

at

each side of line

them
2.

H and
Draw

mark

/.

a straight line from

D to H, and

another from

Dto

I.

56
3.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Make

a dot at the junction of lines

5 and 8

mark

it/.

Draw /to/.
4.

a straight line from

H to J,

and another from

/

If

the waist measure

is

greater than the bust measure*

instead of

slant

these

lines

outward

inward, this will

necessitate a seam.

Fold the paper under on line J, and cut the pattern on the heavy outside lines.

HINTS FOR

PLAIN

BASQUE.
of dress-

There are over four hundred different systems drafting used in the United States, and any one
to be of use requires constant practice.

of these

Patterns are

now

easily obtained,

and by using judg-

ment and following the given

found of great assistance.

directions carefully, will be

Patterns allowing for seams

are easier to cut from, than those which do not.

The trimmings needed

sewing
silk,

for a plain basque are linings,

button-hole twist, basting cotton, buttons or

hooks and eyes, and whale-bones.

The main
sleeve.

parts of a plain basque pattern are front,

back, side-back, under-arm, collar, upper-sleeve, and under-

The

front pattern can be distinguished from the back

pattern by the shape of the neck and arm-scye, the neck

of the front being cut lower,

and the arm-scye being cut

a curve.

larger and having

more

of

The

upper-sleeve
in order to

portion

is

wider than the under-sleeve portion,

bring the seams more under the arms.

HINTS FOR A PLAIN BASQUE.

57

opening should be laid on the selvedge, to avoid making two folds in the hem. Great care must be taken to baste the seams of a
of the
of the

The edge

hem

basque according

to the

marks

few beginners
will

realize

that the difference of an eighth of an inch in the width

of the seven seams,

around the waist,

amount
it

to

one

and three-fourths inches.

be used.

Even basting
is

stitches should
on.

After the basque be made

at the

basted, try

Altera-

tions for tightening or loosening the basque, around the

waist, should

under-arm seams.
;

After the seams are sewed, take out the bastings

the

pare

seams,

making notches

at

the waist-line, and two

inches above the waist-line, to allow for the curving of

the dress. the others,

The under-arm seams may be left wider than that the basque may be let out.
Overcast the seams closely, or

Press the seams open.

bind them with a narrow silk binding obtainable for this

purpose.

Whale-bone casings can be bought, or a bias strip of silesia can be sewed on to the seams, fulling it a little. Soak the whale-bones in hot water for an hour, before using, which will render them soft and pliable enough to sew through. They should be firmly fastened an inch above and an inch below the waist-line.

To
of the

finish

the lower edge of the basque, baste a bias

strip of plain lining muslin,

basque

two inches wide, on the edge then fold the edges over half-an-inch, and

catch them to the lining, fastening securely at the seams.

Put on a facing of a thin material cut on the bias.

Fig.

I.

Doll's

patterns.

DOLLS PATTERNS.

59

DOLL'S PATTERNS.
page 158, patterns are given for doll's garments. By using inch squared paper, and drawing the patterns in
the same proportion, as they are given in the one-fourth

On

inch

squares,

patterns will be obtained for a doll ten

inches long.

INDEX.

Alphabets, 126, 127, 128.

Articles needed,
1.

Earning

Basting, 21.

Cloth darning, 93. Straightway-darn, 93.

Bias-darn, 95.

Bias piecing, 109.

Bindings, 46.
Stitching and
Setting-in, 49.

Corner-darn, 96.

hemming,
51.

46.

Darning with a piece

neath, 97.

under-

Overhanding,
Blind-stitch, 77.

Fine drawing on heavy woollen

material, 98.

Blanket-stitch, 122.

Stockinet darning, 86.

Practice in weaving, 85.

Button-holes, 53. Buttons, 61.

Stockinet darning, 86.

Crafting, 89.

Canvas work,

18.

Catch-stitch, 117.

Swiss darning, 90.

Chain-stitch, 120.

Stocking-web
Drafting, 132.
Drills, 14.

stitch, 90.
2.

Cloth,

8.

Directions for sewing,

11
1.

Corners mitred,
Creasing,
19.

Cutting, 10, 129.

Two-breadth apron,
Child's bib, 134.

133.

Edgings, 78. Lace, 78,

Pockets, 135.
Child's Drawers, 137.

Hamburg, 80. Embroidery knots,

Eyelet-holes, 63.
r

124.

Night-dress yoke,
Child's sack
tier,

39.

Facings, 52.
Feather-stitch, 119.
Felling, 75.

142.

Gored

skirt, 148.

Drawers, 149.
Child's waist, 153.

Fractions of a yard,

13.

Hints for a plain basque,

Doll's patterns, 159.

56.

French hem on damask, French seam, 76.

Gathering, 36.

yy.

l62
Gathering

INDEX.

40.

Overhanding,
Patching, 100.

33.

Double gathering,
Grafting, 89.

Placing or stroking of gathers, 38.

Gussets, 66.

Hemming,

100.

Overhanding, 103.
Catch-stitching, 105.
69.

Gusset and facing combined,

Half-backstitching, 25.

Piping,

no.

Placket, 70.
Plaiting,

Hemming,

25.

yy
2.

Hem-stitch, 115.
Herringbone-stitch, 117.

Putting away the work,

Ruffles, 80.

Honey-combing,

44.

Running,

28.

Hooks and
Kensington
Knots,
7.

eyes, 64.
outline-stitch, 121.

Running and a
Scissors, 10.

backstitch, 30.

Scalloped edge, 43.

Shirring, 42.
Slip-stitch, yy.

Loops, 65.

Loops

of tape, 113.

Marking, 125. Measure, 13.

Mitreing a corner of a hem, 112. Mitreing two strips of cloth,
,
1 1 1

Smocking,

44.

Stitching, 23.

Stocking-web

stitch, 90.

Thread,

5.

Needles,

4.

Threading the needle,

8.

6.

Numbers

of needles and thread,

Tucking, 71.

Overcasting, 31.

Whipping,

82.