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Saveur: The New Classics Cookbook

Saveur: The New Classics Cookbook

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Saveur: The New Classics Cookbook

Lunghezza:
1,821 pagine
12 ore
Pubblicato:
Oct 28, 2014
ISBN:
9781616289102
Formato:
Libro

Descrizione

The celebrated food magazine’s comprehensive cookbook features more than 1000 recipes from across the globe plus techniques, tips, stories, and more.
 
Saveur magazine’s depth of worldwide culinary knowledge is put on full display in this indispensable guide for everyone who relishes the Saveur standard of excellence. With authentic, from-the-source recipes for virtually every type of dish, as well as a range of cooking techniques and practical advice, The New Classics Cookbook offers a comprehensive foundation for any home cook looking for fresh ideas and daily inspiration.
 
This volume also includes suggested menus for holidays and occasions; sidebars that showcase groups of ingredients (such as the Mexican pantry, different varieties of tomatoes, and what makes a good tagine); easy-to-follow instructions for techniques (like how to crimp a dumpling or fold an empanada); and two sections of gorgeous full-color photographs that bring the cuisine to life.
 
Each recipe includes a headnote explaining the origin of the dish, offering suggestions for perfecting the method, or a serving suggestion. There are illustrations and cook’s notes, as well as icons marking vegetarian dishes and other helpful information at a glance.
 
With multiple indexes making it easy to find recipes for any occasion, The New Classics Cookbook is the new essential reference for the discerning home cook.
Pubblicato:
Oct 28, 2014
ISBN:
9781616289102
Formato:
Libro

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Saveur - The Editors of Saveur Magazine

INTRODUCTION

IWAS TWELVE YEARS OLD when I first tried duck à l’orange. My father had taken me to one of Chicago’s great old continental restaurants, and as soon as I saw it on the menu, I knew it was what I wanted. It was glorious to behold: the lacquered leg pointed elegantly upward, the breast meat fanned over a sweep of colorful sauce. It was that exquisite first bite, though, that I’ll always remember: gamy and rich, sweet and savory, subtle and exuberant all at once. Instantly I was transported to a time and place far from that Midwestern dining room.

That plate of duck marked my first encounter with a truly classic dish. Over my years on this earth as a cook, an eater, and a traveler, I’ve come across countless more classics in tiny home kitchens and grand dining rooms, at Heartland county fairs and Southeast Asian hawker centers. Whether a lobster soufflé or a grilled cheese sandwich, a plate of pad Thai or a Lebanese kibbeh, these recipes always carry a deeper importance (and, frequently, a deeper deliciousness) than others. A classic epitomizes—and helps us understand—provenance, but it also goes beyond that: It’s a direct link to a culture, a location, an aesthetic, a moment. Classic recipes are maps, biographies, history lessons on a plate.

Our notion of what constitutes a classic recipe is ever evolving, ever growing. A century ago, the pinnacle of American culinary sophistication was a cream-sauced blanquette de veau right out of Escoffier, and in the 1970s, nothing was more iconic than fondue. Today, we eat—and learn from, and love—an entire world of classic foods, from California-style kale salads to aromatic Moroccan tagines.

This quest for the truly classic is at the heart of what we do at SAVEUR. Our mission—and our passion—is to learn and share those ways of cooking that exemplify people and places.  We’ve been on this journey for 20 years, and this book is the result of those two decades of obsessive eating, cooking, and exploring. (Recipes from our very first cover story, on the moles of Oaxaca, are here.) This volume is not, however, the final word. There are a thousand classic recipes between these covers (including my beloved duck à l’orange), but out there in the big, beautiful, delicious world, there are thousands more to discover.

JAMES OSELAND

SAVEUR EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

THE SAVEUR TEST KITCHEN HAS SEEN thousands upon thousands of recipes pass through its ovens and over its stovetops over the years. We rigorously test each recipe multiple times, using consistent methods. As you cook through this book, here are a few things worth keeping in mind.

RECIPES

Always read a recipe start to finish before beginning to cook, to familiarize yourself with the ingredients and techniques, and to get a sense of how long the recipe will take. Some recipes have Cook’s Notes at the end; these are there to help you with a particular technique, help you source an ingredient or tool, or give you options for modifying the recipe.

COOKING EQUIPMENT

If a recipe specifies a pot or pan of a certain size (like a 6-qt. saucepan or 10" skillet), use a comparable vessel in order to maintain the integrity of the recipe. Too small a pan, and you may end up steaming chicken rather than searing it; too big a pot, and you may over-reduce a sauce because there’s too much surface area.

WATER

We specify water in an ingredient list only if it needs to be heated or chilled to a specific temperature, or if a recipe demands filtered or distilled water that needs to be acquired ahead of time. Otherwise, you’ll find water listed in the instructions.

SALT

With a few exceptions, our recipes are tested using kosher salt, which tastes better and dissolves faster than table salt.

PEPPER

Pre-ground black pepper rarely stands up to the bite or fragrance of its fresh counterpart. Invest in a pepper grinder and whole peppercorns, and grind your pepper as you need it.

BUTTER

We believe butter should add fat and flavor, but not a briny bite—that’s salt’s job. So unless specified, we use only unsalted butter in our recipes.

OIL

For frying and sautéing, our preferred neutral oil is canola. Some recipes benefit from olive oil; when its grassy flavor shines, we use extra-virgin, but if the ingredients don’t specify, the standard variety is sufficient. Some recipes call for Asian sesame oil, also sold as toasted sesame oil. Be sure not to use light sesame oil; the flavor is very different.

PARSLEY

Unless otherwise noted, we prefer flat-leaf (also known as Italian) parsley, rather than the curly variety, because flat-leaf has a cleaner flavor and texture.

TAMARIND

In recipes that call for tamarind, we generally specify tamarind extract. To make tamarind extract, soak ¼ lb. tamarind paste, broken into small pieces, in 1 cup boiling water, occasionally mashing the pulp with your fingers. The strained liquid will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

TOMATOES

To maintain quality and consistency when it comes to canned tomatoes, we use only whole, peeled tomatoes. We then crush, dice, or purée them as needed, with or without their juices. (Note that if a recipe calls for canned whole tomatoes, crushed and you substitute canned crushed tomatoes, the recipe may not turn out exactly.)

FLOUR

When a recipe refers to flour, we mean all-purpose flour. If a recipe calls for a certain variety—like cake flour, rice flour, or whole wheat flour—the ingredient list will specify. We measure flour by volume, using a consistent method: Use a spoon to stir the flour in its container. Transfer flour into a measuring cup one spoonful at a time until the cup overflows, then sweep a knife across the rim to make an even surface.

ALCOHOL

We test our cocktails using widely available national brands that are in the middle of the price spectrum. Avoid bargain-priced spirits; they’re often harsh and poorly balanced. When you’re cooking with liquor, always use something you’d be more than happy to drink on its own. The alcohol itself may cook off, but the flavor of the drink will remain in the finished dish.  

TO MARKET, TO MARKET

While most of the recipes in this book call for ingredients readily found at your favorite local supermarket—where you can increasingly find ingredients ranging from Thai rice noodles to dried Mexican chiles—in a few cases, you’ll need to look a bit further.

For hard-to-find packaged goods, the internet is your grocery store. There are countless specialty retailers with robust mail-order services online: Just plug your desired product into your favorite search engine and up will pop dozens of specialty retailers that ship quickly and affordably. (More often than not, what you’re looking for is right there on amazon.com.) For spices, extracts, and dried fruits and nuts we especially recommend Kalustyan’s (kalustyans.com); for hard-to-find produce, we usually order from Melissa’s (melissas.com); and for specialty meats, we turn to Marx Foods (marxfoods.com).

We also encourage you to seek out specialty grocery stores in your area. In most parts of the US, you can find stores specializing in Mexican, Asian, Indian and Caribbean foods, which can be an excellent source for hard-to- find ingredients—and usually at a lower price than what you will find online.

Appetizers

HORS D’OEUVRES

DIPS & SPREADS

SNACKS

SMALL DISHES

APPETIZERS

OF ALL THE PLEASURES associated with eating, anticipation is one of the best. The moment when a heavenly aroma sneaks around the kitchen door, heralding the repast to come, is wonderful. But it can also be tough: Our stomachs grumble; our mouths water. How can we bear the wait until dinner is served? Enter appetizers, those much-loved nibbles that precede the meal, calming the appetite in advance of the dishes to come.

For cooks the world over, these savory tidbits buy time and set the mood, curbing hunger and putting an edible welcome on the table.

The first known use of the English word appetizer was in 1820, but, of course, preprandial treats have been around a lot longer. Ancient Greeks snacked on raw and cured olives, bits of fish and nuts. According to Apicius, early Romans were likely to start with what may be one of the original versions of deviled eggs. French aristocrats of the 17th century sated themselves with small plates of oysters, pâtés, and, yes, stuffed eggs. They called these bites hors d’oeuvres, meaning out of the ordinary course of things. In other words, such foods were not the meal, but rather the meal’s extraordinary accompaniments. It’s a definition we heartily endorse: Spanish-style pan con tomate, the juice of the ripe tomato soaking into the garlicky bread; pissaladière, a French tart pungent with onion and anchovy; Malaysian chicken satay fragrant with ginger and lemongrass—all are indeed extraordinary.

Modest in size and extravagant in flavor, appetizers like these prime everyone at the table for enjoyment. We can think of nothing better to offer the people with whom we choose to dine than a delectable morsel made with care. Whether oysters Rockefeller from the broiler, topped with bread crumbs laced with butter and tarragon, pita slathered with baba ghannouj, a smoky mashed eggplant spread, or a quickly made batch of Mexican spiced nuts, an appetizer gives our dining companions the license to dig in with gusto. By any name—antipasto, tapa, mezze, entrada—it’s an edible greeting of immediate impact delivering the simple message, We’re glad you’re here.

Hors d’Oeuvres

BAKED FETA

SERVES 4

Crumbly, salty feta takes on a whole new dimension when it’s baked in the oven.

1 Heat oven to 400°. Cut feta into 4 slices about 3″×4″ and ½″ thick. Place each slice on a large piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with 1 tsp. oil, and sprinkle with chile flakes. Wrap foil around cheese, closing it and folding it over to seal.

2 Place foil packets on a baking sheet and bake until cheese is slightly soft, about 10 minutes. Transfer to 4 plates, remove foil, and drizzle with remaining 2 tsp. oil. Serve with bread.

COOK’S NOTE Use tinned feta rather than the barrel-aged variety, which can be too soft and creamy for this dish.

THE FACTS ON FETA

Feta, the definitive Greek cheese, salty and sourish and earthy, is descended from the soft, tart goat’s-milk cheeses that have been made in the Balkans, and especially in Greece and Bulgaria, for centuries. The Greek word feta means slice–the form in which the cheese is customarily served. (It is not an old name; it was probably coined by a market-savvy cheese-monger or producer around the turn of the 20th century.) Greek law decrees that feta must be made from at least 70 percent ewe’s milk and up to 30 percent goat’s milk. Each animal produces one to three kilos of milk per day; it takes at least four kilos to make a kilo of cheese. The more goat’s milk in the mix, the firmer the cheese will be.

ELLA FITZGERALD’S FAVORITE CHEDDAR CHEESE LOG

MAKES ONE 8″ LOG

No less than jazz legend Ella Fitzgerald flagged this recipe in her copy of James Beard’s American Cookery. This vintage hors d’oeuvre has won over cocktail partygoers for decades with its smooth cheddar cheese texture sharpened with the heat of Tabasco and Dijon mustard.

1 Put room-temperature cheddar cheese in a large bowl. Add mustard, Tabasco, parsley, and pimientos. Mix until ingredients are evenly distributed.

2 Place a piece of plastic wrap about 9″ long on a clean surface. Mound cheese mixture along edge nearest you, then roll in plastic, pressing and molding to form a log about 1½″ wide and 8″ long.

3 Carefully remove plastic wrap and roll log in chopped pecans, pressing nuts into log as you roll. Rewrap log with fresh plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour. Serve with crackers.

CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ

MAKES ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS

A smart cook never tosses the jewels found inside a whole chicken, especially the liver. Sautéed and blended, liver transforms into a velvety pâté, spiked with cognac and mellowed with sweet sautéed onions.

Bring livers and stock to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving ¼ cup cooking liquid, then transfer to a food processor. Heat fat in a 10″ skillet over high heat, add onion, and cook until browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer to food processor. Add reserved cooking liquid, cognac, egg, salt, and pepper and purée. Serve with toast points.

GOUGÈRES

MAKES ABOUT 2½ DOZEN

These feather light, tender pastry puffs are flavored with Gruyère cheese and baked until golden brown. They’re best eaten right out of the oven, when the warm cheese is at its most aromatic.

1 Heat oven to 425°. Bring milk, butter, salt, and ½ cup water to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan over high heat. Add flour and stir until dough forms. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring dough constantly with a wooden spoon, until slightly dried, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Using a hand mixer, beat in one egg until smooth. Repeat with remaining eggs, beating them in one at a time, until dough is smooth. Stir in cheese.

2 Using a large tablespoon, drop balls of dough onto parchment paper–lined baking sheets. Reduce oven temperature to 375° and bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes.

PIMIENTO CHEESE

MAKES 4 CUPS; SERVES 16

There are as many variations on pimiento cheese—the iconic spread of cheese, mayonnaise, red pepper, and spices—as there are opinionated Southern cooks. This simple, perfect version comes from Doris Kemp, owner of Mammy’s Cupboard in Natchez, Mississippi. She insists on using Duke’s mayonnaise, a tart, tangy, less-sweet-than-Hellman’s spread that’s an essential part of the Southern pantry.

PUFF PERFECT

Gougères, the irresistible French cheese puffs traditionally served with apéritifs in Burgundy, might well be the perfect hors d’oeuvre: With their delicate crisp walls and soft, cheese-laced, eggy interior, they are light enough to whet your appetite but rich enough to satisfy premeal cravings. The secret of the puff? According to chef Jean-Pierre Silva of Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland, it’s all in how you construct the dough: Adding the flour all at once, and the eggs one at a time. This produces a perfectly airy, lofty dough.

Grate cheddar cheese into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle. Add pimientos, cream cheese, mayonnaise, garlic salt, and cayenne (or to taste). Beat on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Serve with crackers.

CHINESE MINCED CHICKEN LETTUCE WRAPS

SERVES 4

These crisp Cantonese wraps are a lesson in textural contrast—and they’re packed with flavor. The chicken marinates in a powerful combination of soy sauce, oyster sauce, and rice wine.

1 Put chicken, cashews, mushrooms, and chopped scallions into a bowl. Mix soy sauce, oyster sauce, wine, cornstarch, sugar, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Pour over chicken and toss well. Let marinate for 15 minutes.

2 Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over high heat. Add garlic and cook for 10 seconds. Add chicken mixture and cook, stirring, until browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer chicken to a bowl. To serve, spoon some chicken onto each lettuce leaf. Garnish with julienned scallion and chile sauce.

NEGIMA YAKITORI

Chicken & Scallion Skewers with Yakitori Sauce

SERVES 6–8

Japanese chicken skewers are marvels of simplicity. A basting of homemade yakitori sauce, salty and deep thanks to roasted chicken bones, combines with the smoke of the grill and the sweetness of scallions to bring out remarkable flavor in the chicken.

1 Make the yakitori sauce: Arrange an oven rack 4″ from broiler and heat broiler. Remove bones from chicken legs and cut bones into small pieces. Cut chicken meat into ¼″-thick slices; refrigerate until ready to use. Transfer bones to a foil-lined baking sheet and broil, turning, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer bones to a 4-qt. saucepan and add mirin, soy sauce, sake, sugar, pepper, green parts of scallions, garlic, ginger, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until liquid is reduced by half, about 1½ hours. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and let sauce cool.

2 Working with 1 skewer at a time, alternately thread 4 slices chicken with 3 pieces of white parts of scallions, piercing chicken slices through their ends to form folded slices and piercing scallion pieces perpendicular to skewer.

3 Build a medium fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium. (Alternatively, heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat.) Add skewers and cook, turning, until beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Brush with yakitori sauce and continue cooking, turning and basting with sauce every 30 seconds, until cooked through and sauce forms a glaze on chicken, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a serving plate and drizzle with more yakitori sauce; serve immediately.

MALAYSIAN CHICKEN SATAY

Satay Ayam

MAKES 30 SKEWERS

Malaysia’s version of chicken satay, called satay ayam, comes from the northeast coast and is marinated in a spice market’s worth of seasonings, from ginger to fennel to coriander. It’s served with a rich, piquant peanut sauce—in Malaysia, the street hawkers who sell satay each have their own variation, some spicier, some sweeter, some more sour.

1 Process 2 tbsp. oil with sugar, coriander, turmeric, fennel, salt, garlic, chopped lemongrass, shallots, and ginger in a food processor until smooth. Mix paste and chicken in a bowl; chill for 4 hours. Using a meat mallet, strike thick end of lemongrass stalk until it splits into threads resembling a brush. Place shattered end in a bowl and pour in remaining 4 tbsp. oil.

2 Build a hot fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to high. Thread 2 pieces of chicken on each skewer. Grill, turning once and brushing with oil from lemongrass brush, until charred, 5–6 minutes. Serve at once with peanut sauce.

THE WORLD OF SATAY

"Satay is the quintessence of fast food in Southeast Asia. You’ll find it sizzling over hot coals practically 24 hours a day—at night markets, in busy hawker stalls, or offered by mobile vendors who prepare it to order. These cooks carry bamboo rods across their shoulders, balancing a basketful of the marinated meat and condiments on one side and a small grill filled with hot coals on the other. When a vendor is waved down by a customer, he sets up his mobile kitchen on the ground and starts cooking. Within minutes, the skewers are charred and ready to eat."

JAMES OSELAND

TOFU WANZI

Fried Tofu & Bacon Fritters

MAKES ABOUT 3½ DOZEN

China meets the American South in these exquisite tofu, bacon, and scallion fritters, an invention of writer Mei Chin’s grandmother, who emigrated from China to Richmond, Virginia. They’re a perfect expression of cross-cultural culinary fusion.

1 Place all the tofu on a bed of paper towels on a baking sheet and cover with more paper towels and another baking sheet. Place a cast-iron skillet on sheet to weight it down; refrigerate until tofu is drained of most of its liquid, at least 6 hours or up to overnight. Transfer pressed tofu to a large bowl and mash coarsely with a fork. Stir in panko, flour, sesame oil, scallions, bacon, eggs, and salt and pepper until evenly combined.

2 Pour oil to a depth of 2″ into a 6-qt. Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°. Portion 2 tbsp. of the tofu mixture and form into a miniature football shape using 2 spoons; repeat with remaining tofu mixture. Fry until golden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and serve immediately.

TUNA MELT CANAPÉS

SERVES 2

This bite-size riff on a tuna melt gets a facelift from curry powder, raisins, and chutney—unexpected partners, but they work together beautifully.

1 Arrange an oven rack 10″ from broiler and heat broiler. Combine mayonnaise, raisins, chutney, curry, and tuna in a bowl and season with salt and pepper; set aside.

2 Cut each slice of bread and cheese into 4 triangles. Spoon tuna salad on top of bread pieces and top with cheese. Broil triangles until cheese is melted, 3–4 minutes. Serve garnished with chives.

BETTER WITH BACON

From artichokes to zucchini, almost everything is improved when it’s wrapped in smoky, salty bacon.

JALAPEÑOS

You don’t need breading to make perfect poppers. Grill seeded jalapeños and stuff them with cream cheese; wrap the peppers in bacon and grill until golden and crispy, about 10 minutes. Serve them with fresh tomato salsa to tame the heat.

ARTICHOKES

Place a drained, jarred artichoke heart on the end of a piece of raw bacon, sprinkle it with Parmigiano and black pepper, roll it up, and secure with a toothpick. Heat canola oil poured to a depth of 2″ into a Dutch oven to 350° and fry the artichokes until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle with more cheese.

SCALLIONS

Butcher shops all across Sicily sell bacon-wrapped scallions called cipollate con pancetta. Bunch 3 scallions together and tie with bacon. Sauté in a skillet until bacon is browned and crispy on all sides, 6–8 minutes. Serve immediately, or snack on them at room temperature.

DATES

At The Red Cat, a New York City restaurant, almost every table orders these dates. Insert an almond into the cavity of a pitted Medjool date, and pipe in soft goat cheese to fill any empty space. Wrap each date in a ½ slice bacon and place seam side down on a baking sheet. Cook at 500° until bacon is crisp, 6–8 minutes.

CHICKEN LIVERS

To make rumaki, the tiki bar appetizer that took the 1960s by storm, place a water chestnut in the middle of a raw slice of bacon, then top with ½ a chicken liver. Place a drop of soy sauce, a pinch of minced fresh ginger, and a sprinkle of brown sugar on top, then wrap in bacon and secure with a skewer. Bake, turning once, in a 400° oven until crisp and golden all over.

SARDINES

Wrap oil-packed sardines from a tin in 1 slice of bacon per sardine and secure with a toothpick. Heat canola oil poured to a depth of 2″ into a Dutch oven to 350° and fry until bacon is crisp, about 2 minutes. Serve over toasted white bread, sprinkled with chopped fresh herbs like parsley or chervil.

FRIED WHITEBAIT

SERVES 4

A standard menu item in the ouzo bars of Athens, these tiny, deep-fried fish—about 3″ long and eaten whole, heads and all—are as addictive as French fries.

1 Wash and drain fish (since they’re so small, it is not necessary to clean or bone them). On a large plate, combine flour with salt and several grinds of pepper. Dredge fish in flour, shaking off any excess.

2 Pour oil to a depth of 2″ into a 6-qt. Dutch oven and heat over medium-high until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°. (Test the oil by dropping in a fish; it should sizzle vigorously and, after sinking to the bottom, quickly rise to the top.) Gently place half the fish in the oil and fry until crisp and golden, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining fish.

3 Mound hot fried fish on a plate and sprinkle with coarse salt, if desired. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

COOK’S NOTE Don’t crowd the fry pot with too many fish. The temperature will drop and the fish won’t be crisp.

SHRIMP & HERB CANAPÉS

SERVES 14–16

Time-Life’s Good Cook series of cookbooks from the 1970s and 1980s is filled with timeless classics. Among our favorite recipes is this one for a duo of canapés made with herb and shrimp butters, which we’ve adapted.

1 To make the herb butter: Combine watercress, parsley, tarragon, and ½ cup water in a food processor and purée into a smooth paste. Transfer to a 2-qt. saucepan, place over medium heat, and cook, without stirring, until mixture barely begins to simmer. Remove from heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the herb solids from the liquid and transfer to paper towels to drain. Squeeze paper towels around herbs to remove any excess liquid, and then transfer herb solids to a food processor along with 2 sticks butter and 2 tbsp. lemon juice; process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and set herb butter aside.

2 To make the shrimp butter: Bring a 2-qt. saucepan of water to a boil. Add shrimp and cook until just cooked through, about 4 minutes. Drain, peel, and devein. Set aside 4 shrimp to slice thinly lengthwise for garnish. Finely chop remaining shrimp; transfer to a food processor along with remaining butter and lemon juice and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

3 Thinly spread some of the herb butter over half the bread slices; thinly spread some of the shrimp butter over the remaining bread slices. Transfer each butter to a separate piping bag fitted with a ″ star tip, and pipe rows of butter along the long edges of the corresponding herb- and shrimp- buttered bread slices; chill to firm butters. Cut each bread slice crosswise into 5 rectangles. Garnish rectangles with capers, cooked shrimp slices, radishes, and chives.

LOWCOUNTRY SHRIMP PASTE

MAKES 2½ CUPS

A specialty of Charleston and the Carolina Lowcountry, this shrimp paste—similar to what the English call potted shrimp—is delicious spread on buttered toast.

1 Heat 6 tbsp. butter in a large skillet until it is hot and foaming. Add the shrimp, salt, and black pepper and cook over high heat, stirring often, until the shrimp are pink and cooked through, 4–7 minutes.

2 Remove the skillet from the stove and use a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked shrimp to a food processor. Return the skillet to the stove and add sherry, lemon juice, and cayenne. Cook over high heat until the liquid in the skillet is reduced to about 3 tbsp. and is quite syrupy. Immediately add this to the shrimp in the food processor and process until the shrimp are thoroughly puréed. Cut remaining 10 tbsp. butter into pieces. With the motor running, add the butter, a few pieces at a time, and process until thoroughly blended. Turn the food processor off and taste the shrimp paste for seasoning, adding more salt, black pepper, sherry, lemon juice, or cayenne as needed. Transfer the shrimp paste to a crock or bowl and allow to cool completely. If not using right away, cover the shrimp paste and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.

LUCIANO PAVAROTTI

DEVILS ON HORSEBACK

SERVES 4–6

In this version of the classic hors d’oeuvre, oysters are cooked with garlic and wine, then set astride toasted garlic bread slices and sprinkled with bacon.

1 Heat oven to 400°. Melt 4 tbsp. butter in a small pan; mix with 1 tsp. garlic. Brush baguette slices with the garlic butter and arrange on a baking sheet. Bake until lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Set aside.

2 Meanwhile, cook bacon in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat until crispy, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain, reserving bacon fat for another use; set aside. Heat remaining 2 tbsp. butter in the skillet. Add remaining 5 tsp. garlic and the scallions and cook, stirring, until soft, about 3 minutes. Add wine, lemon juice, oysters with their juices, and salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until oysters begin to curl at the edges, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer oysters to a bowl; cover to keep warm. Continue to cook sauce until thickened and reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Divide oysters and sauce among baguette slices; top with reserved bacon and garnish with parsley.

FRIED ARTICHOKE HEARTS WITH TAHINI SAUCE

Ardî Shawkî Maqli bil-Taratur

SERVES 4

We found this recipe—a flavorful preparation, in which tender artichoke bottoms are fried and served with an intense, tahini-based sauce—at al-Az, a casual but well-known restaurant in Damascus.

FOR THE TAHINI SAUCE

FOR THE ARTICHOKES

1 Make the sauce: Combine garlic and salt in a mortar and grind to a paste with pestle. (Garlic can also be very finely chopped.) Transfer garlic paste to a bowl and add tahini. While stirring, drizzle in lemon juice. Thin to the consistency of a thick dip with up to 3 tbsp. water. Stir in 2 tsp. parsley.

2 Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375°. Dredge artichokes in flour and shake off excess. Fry artichokes, a few at a time, turning occasionally, until golden, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with salt. Serve with sauce, garnished with remaining 1 tsp. parsley.

COOK’S NOTE To test if the oil is hot enough, drop in a toothpick. If it quickly turns dark brown, the oil is ready.

LEMON & CORIANDER MARINATED OLIVES

Elies Tsakkistes me Koliandro

SERVES 8–10

Chunks of lemon and cracked coriander seeds lend a bright flavor to these classic Greek-style olives.

1 In a large bowl, mix olives with oil, lemon juice, coriander, garlic, and bay leaves.

2 Cut lemon into wedges lengthwise; cut each wedge crosswise into ½″-thick pieces. Add lemon pieces to olives; stir well to combine. Cover olives with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 1 month. Bring olives to room temperature before serving.

COOK’S NOTE When making this dish, we prefer to use the nutty, cracked Cypriot olives called kipriakes eliés, but you can use Italian Cerignola or Spanish Gordal olives and get equally good results.

FRIED OLIVES

SERVES 2

Briny olives take on a whole new dimension when fried in a crisp bread crumb crust. They’re a perfect cocktail party snack.

1 Pour oil to a depth of 2″ into a 2-qt. saucepan and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°.

2 Meanwhile, place the beaten egg and the bread crumbs in separate bowls. Coat olives in egg, then roll in bread crumbs until fully coated. Fry one-quarter of the olives until golden, about 45 seconds. Drain on paper towels and repeat with remaining olives. Serve warm.

EGGPLANT CAPONATA

SERVES 6–8

This classic Sicilian dish of fried eggplant sops up the flavors of onions, celery, tomatoes, olives, raisins, capers, basil, pine nuts, and chocolate—yes, chocolate. It’s the perfect example of sweet and salty marrying well together.

1 Heat oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add eggplant and fry, tossing occasionally, until browned, 3–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggplant to a large bowl; set aside.

2 Pour off all but ¼ cup oil and reserve for another use. Return skillet to heat, add onions and celery, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add tomato paste, and cook, stirring, until caramelized and almost evaporated, 1–2 minutes. Add crushed tomatoes and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Stir in olives, vinegar, raisins, capers, sugar, and chocolate and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Transfer to bowl with eggplant, along with basil and pine nuts, and mix together. Season with salt and pepper and let cool to room temperature before serving.

POTATO SKORDALIA

MAKES 2 CUPS

This garlicky purée of olive oil, almonds, and potatoes is a staple in a Greek mezze spread. It’s traditionally served with bread and raw vegetables.

1 Put potatoes into a 2-qt. saucepan and add enough salted water to cover by 1″. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl.

2 Mash potatoes until smooth; stir in almonds and garlic. Add oil, then vinegar, in a thin stream while whisking vigorously, and season with salt. Skordalia will keep, refrigerated and covered, for up to 4 days.

HERBED TOMATO TART

SERVES 12–16

Made with ripe cherry tomatoes and fragrant herbs, this sweet-savory tart makes a regular appearance during the annual midsummer communal feast held in the hilltop town of Buggiano, in northern Tuscany.

1 Heat oven to 375°. Fit pastry sheets side by side in a parchment paper–lined 13″×18″ rimmed baking pan, pressing pastry against bottom and sides. Trim inner edges of pastry sheets so that they form a seam in center; trim pastry hanging over sides of pan. Prick bottom of pastry with a fork. Line bottom and sides of pastry with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until edges of tart are golden, about 25 minutes. Remove weights and parchment, sprinkle Parmigiano over tart shell, and bake until cheese is melted and tart shell is golden all over, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool.

2 Arrange an oven rack 4″ from broiler and heat broiler. In a large bowl, mix together oil and anchovies; add tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Transfer tomato mixture to a baking sheet and broil, shaking pan once or twice, until tomatoes blister, 12–14 minutes. Let cool slightly. Use a slotted spoon to transfer tomato mixture to the prepared tart shell; distribute tomatoes evenly.

3 Heat oven to 425°. In a medium bowl, mix parsley, chives, oregano, and nutmeg; sprinkle herb mixture evenly over tomatoes. Return tart to oven and bake until hot, about 15 minutes. Let tart cool slightly before serving.

PISSALADIÈRE

Caramelized Onion Tart

SERVES 12

This southern French tart takes its name from pissala, a pungent anchovy paste that gives the flatbread its distinctive flavor. Serve this savory bread as an appetizer or as a snack, served with a glass of rosé.

1 Make the dough: Whisk together yeast and water in a large bowl; let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add flour, ¼ cup oil, and salt and stir until dough forms; transfer to a floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

2 Meanwhile, make the topping: Heat remaining ½ cup oil in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium-low heat. Add anchovies and cook, stirring, until dissolved in the oil, about 7 minutes. Add onions, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, and salt and pepper and cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until reduced and softened, about 1 hour. Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates and onions are golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and discard herb sprigs and bay leaves; let cool.

3 Heat oven to 425°. Uncover dough and transfer to a work surface; using a rolling pin, roll dough into a 12″×18″ rectangle. Transfer dough rectangle to a greased 13″×18″ rimmed baking sheet and then cover evenly with onion mixture; place olive halves decoratively over onion mixture. Cover tart loosely with plastic wrap and let sit until dough is puffed, about 1 hour. Bake until golden brown at the edges, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into squares to serve.

TREVISO & GORGONZOLA TART

SERVES 4–6

Treviso, the long-leaved cousin of round Verona radicchio, is wilted and tossed with blue cheese as a topping for this light and crispy tart.

1 Put a pizza stone on oven rack set in middle of oven. Heat oven to 400°.

2 Heat 3 tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium heat, add garlic, and cook until golden, 3–4 minutes. Add radicchio, raise heat to medium-high, and cook until wilted, 2–3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3 Place a pastry sheet on a floured inverted baking sheet, prick all over with a fork, then scatter radicchio and Gorgonzola on top.

4 Put into freezer for 15 minutes, then loosen pastry from baking sheet with a metal spatula and slide onto pizza stone. Bake until pastry is golden, 18–20 minutes. Let cool for 5–10 minutes before cutting into squares to serve.

Dips & Spreads

LEMON PARMESAN DIP

MAKES 2 CUPS

Cheesy and bright-tasting, this crudité dip also makes a great salad dressing.

Stir all ingredients together in a bowl until smooth.

FETA CHEESE SPREAD

MAKES 1 CUP

In this Greek recipe, feta is blended with olive oil and red chiles into a savory spread. It’s delicious right away, but it’s even better when left to marinate for several hours so the flavors can blend.

1 Combine feta, oil, chiles, a few grinds of pepper, and lemon juice in a food processor and blend until very smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for several hours so that the flavors develop and the cheese spread sets up.

2 Bring to room temperature. Drizzle a little oil over the top. Serve with olives and pita. Spread will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

MAYTAG BLUE CHEESE DIP

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

The most celebrated American blue cheese, Maytag Blue—made on a dairy farm in Newton, Iowa, and cave-aged for six months for a full, rich flavor—is available in quality cheese shops. Other blue cheeses may be substituted, but Maytag is worth looking for. Celery sticks make an ideal vehicle for this rich dip.

Mix cream cheese, sour cream, and heavy cream together in a medium bowl. Crumble in blue cheese, add two-thirds of the scallions, and stir until well mixed but still slightly chunky. Season to taste with pepper and garnish with remaining scallions.

ARTICHOKE DIP

MAKES 3 CUPS

Artichokes mixed with salty parmesan cheese and creamy mayo are baked together until bubbling hot. This quintessential appetizer is served all across the South, from New Orleans, Louisiana, to Norfolk, Virginia.

Heat oven to 350°. Combine artichokes, cheese, and mayonnaise, mixing well. Stir in onions to taste. Spoon into an 8″ square baking dish. Bake until bubbly and lightly browned. Serve with crackers.

RAW DEAL

There’s nothing new about eating raw vegetables, but in the States it wasn’t until the first half of the 20th century that an austere serving of celery sticks was recast as crudités—an opulent appetizer. The distinction is partly semantic: Fashionable French restaurants in America offered first-course relish plates of raw vegetables, referring to them in their native tongue (the word crudité itself is French for rawness, though the presentation may include cooked or cured ingredients), and the term caught on. The definition is also an aesthetic one: Crudités live or die by their composition, by their balance of colors, and the allure of the arrangement. Whether it’s a single sliced carrot or a polychromatic cornucopia, it’s a dish that’s meant to attract, to be admired. (James Beard called crudités the most appetizing dish imaginable.) Compose your crudités using whatever looks best at the market: Broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and cucumbers are just starting points; try wedges of raw fennel, elegant breakfast radishes, pickled caperberries, or blanched green beans, and always several dips, like Lemon Parmesan Dip, Magical Muhammara, and Bagna Cauda.

TAPÉNADE

MAKES ½ CUP

Tapénade speaks to salt lovers. Briny olives, salty capers, and anchovy filets are mixed into a piquant spread that’s brightened by the addition of lemon juice, parsley, and olive oil.

Crush garlic and anchovy filet with a mortar and pestle, then mix in capers, olives, and parsley. Stir in oil, add lemon juice, and combine well with a fork.

FRENCH ONION DIP

MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS

Our favorite recipe for this classic dip showcases onions three ways: fried, roasted, and fresh.

1 Heat oven to 425°. Toss quartered onions with 2 tbsp. oil on a foil-lined baking sheet, and season with salt and pepper. Roast, turning occasionally, until soft and slightly caramelized, about 45 minutes. Set roasted onions aside to cool.

2 Purée roasted onions in a food processor until smooth. Add mayonnaise, cream cheese, sour cream, lemon juice, Worcestershire, hot sauce, salt, and pepper, and purée until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until set, at least 4 hours or up to overnight.

3 Heat remaining oil in a 10″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add finely chopped onions and cook, stirring, until beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown, about 16 minutes more. Transfer onions to a sieve set over a bowl to drain; discard oil or reserve for another use. Transfer fried onions to paper towels to drain.

4 To serve, stir two-thirds of the fried onions and the scallions into dip, and transfer to a serving bowl. Top with remaining fried onions and serve with raw vegetables.

BAGNA CAUDA

Anchovy & Garlic Dip

SERVES 4–6

This lusty hot dip, whose Italian name means warm bath, provides the perfect counterpoint to raw vegetables.

1 Heat oil and butter in a pot over medium-high heat until butter begins to foam. Add garlic and cook for 10 seconds.

2 Reduce heat to medium-low and add anchovies. Cook, stirring and mashing anchovies with a wooden spoon, until anchovies are broken into very small pieces and dip is cloudy, 3–4 minutes.

3 Season with salt and serve immediately with raw vegetables.

GALILEAN-STYLE HUMMUS

Mashaushe

MAKES 3 CUPS

Generous spice, a good dose of olive oil, and whole chickpeas piled high are the hallmarks of this Galilean-style hummus.

Bring chickpeas and 4 cups water to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, covered, until chickpeas are very tender, 1–1½ hours. Drain, reserving ½ cup cooking liquid; cool to room temperature. Transfer all but ¾ cup chickpeas to a food processor with the tahini, oil, juice, cumin, garlic, chile, and salt; purée until smooth. Add reserved cooking liquid and continue to purée until airy in consistency, about 5 minutes. Transfer hummus to a serving dish. Top with remaining whole chickpeas, drizzle with more oil, and sprinkle with salt. Serve with pita bread.

BABA GHANNOUJ

Mashed Eggplant Spread

SERVES 4

The classic Middle Eastern eggplant spread, redolent of garlic and smoky charred eggplant, is made even creamier with the addition of a small quantity of mayonnaise.

Heat broiler. Place garlic and eggplants on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil until tender and charred all over, about 10 minutes for garlic and 40 minutes for eggplant. Peel garlic and peel and seed eggplants. Mash eggplant flesh, garlic, lemon juice, tahini, mayonnaise, 2 tsp. parsley, the cumin, paprika, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tsp. parsley.

LABNEH

SERVES 4

Thick, tart, and luscious, this yogurt-like cheese, when eaten together with olive oil, pita bread, and the sumac-based spice blend za’atar, makes a typical breakfast throughout the Middle East.

1 Bring milk just to a boil in a 4-qt. nonreactive saucepan fitted with a deep-fry thermometer. Remove from heat and let cool until thermometer reads 118°. Transfer 1 cup milk to a bowl and whisk in yogurt until combined. Add yogurt mixture to saucepan and whisk until smooth; cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature (70°–75°) until thickened, 6–8 hours.

2 Line a fine-mesh sieve with 3 layers of cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Transfer mixture to sieve and let drain for at least 8 hours or up to overnight. Transfer to a serving dish. Season with salt and drizzle with oil.

MAGICAL MUHAMMARA

MAKES 2 CUPS

Diana Abu-Jaber, author of the book The Language of Baklava, grew up with a Jordanian father who would lure his children back home by making their favorite foods. According to Abu-Jaber, This dip or spread is good for when you want everyone to quit running around and come to the table. Serve with warm pita bread, or use as a spread on your favorite sandwich.

1 Combine all ingredients except parsley in a food processor or blender. Purée until smooth.

2 Spoon dip into small bowls and garnish with parsley. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Before serving, top with drizzle of oil.

SALSA DE PIÑA

Fresh Pineapple Salsa

MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS

Pineapple’s bright flavor shines in this fragrant, spicy Mexican salsa. It’s a terrific foil for rich meats, stewed chicken, and roasted fish—or, on its own, as a brilliantly tart-sweet counterpoint to salty tortilla chips.

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and toss until evenly combined. Let sit at room temperature to meld flavors, at least 30 minutes. Serve with tortilla chips.

SALSA VERDE

Green Tomatillo Salsa

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

Bright and fruity, this Mexican salsa is a perfect partner to rich cheesy dishes and grilled meats.

1 Combine tomatillos, garlic, onions, and jalapeños in a 4-qt. saucepan; add water to cover by 1″. Bring to a boil and cook until slightly soft, about 5 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.

2 Transfer to a blender along with reserved liquid, sugar, cilantro, and salt and pepper, and pulse until chunky. Transfer to a bowl and serve at room temperature.

OAXACAN SHRIMP PICO DE GALLO

Salsa con Camarón Seco

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

In coastal Oaxaca, Mexico, dried shrimp appear in all kinds of preparations. Here, they bring texture and intense flavor to a classic pico de gallo–style salsa.

In a large bowl, mix tomatoes, shrimp, jalapeños plus brine, cilantro, onion, lime juice, and salt. Let sit at room temperature to meld flavors, at least 1 hour.

TEX-MEX CHILE CON QUESO

SERVES 4

You’ll find this creamy, cheesy dip on the menu at virtually every Tex-Mex restaurant in San Antonio, Texas, generally with a basket of tortilla chips.

1 Put cheddar and Velveeta in a medium pot. Set it over a pot of simmering water over medium heat and heat until cheese mixture is nearly melted. Add cream and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until cheese mixture is hot and smooth, 3–5 minutes.

2 Transfer cheese mixture to a serving dish and sprinkle onions, tomatoes, and jalapeños on top. Serve immediately with tortilla chips.

CASA DRAGONES GUACAMOLE

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

This guacamole, sourced from the Casa Dragones tequila-making operation in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, offers a hit of flavor thanks to a rough paste made from white onion, cilantro, serrano chiles, and garlic, into which chunks of ripe avocado are gently incorporated.

1 In a large bowl or molcajete, combine onion, cilantro, chiles, and garlic; sprinkle heavily with salt and mash with a fork or pestle into a chunky paste.

2 Add avocados, tomato, and lime juice and stir to combine, mashing some of the avocado slightly as you stir. Season with salt and serve with tortilla chips.

GOAN AVOCADO SALAD

MAKES 3½ CUPS

This dish, originally created by chef Floyd Cardoz for the Bread Bar at Manhattan’s now-closed Tabla restaurant, is guacamole gone happily Indian. It’s spiked with cayenne and cumin and served with naan chips.

FOR THE SALAD

FOR THE CHIPS

1 To make the salad: Put all the ingredients, except the garnish, in a medium bowl and stir well. Press plastic wrap directly onto surface of salad and refrigerate for 2–3 hours.

2 To make the chips: Heat oven to 350°. Using a rolling pin, roll each naan ″ thick. Cut each bread into 12 triangles. Put triangles into large bowl, drizzle with oil, add salt and pepper, and toss well. Arrange triangles in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake until crisp, about 20 minutes, turning chips over and rotating baking sheet front to back after 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

3 Garnish salad with cilantro and serve with naan chips.

Snacks

SCOTCH EGGS

MAKES 6

A hard-cooked egg encased in sausage and bread crumbs and then deep-fried may seem like a product of modern pub culture, but the Scotch egg debuted at London department store Fortnum & Mason in 1738.

1 Place 6 eggs in a 2-qt. saucepan and cover by 1″ with cold water. Place over medium-high heat and bring to boil; cover, remove from heat, and let sit for 6 minutes. Drain eggs and transfer to a bowl of ice water; let sit for 5 minutes. Drain eggs and peel and discard shells; set aside.

2 Combine sausage, Worcestershire, mustard, cornstarch, mace, and herbs in a bowl; season with salt and pepper and mix until evenly combined. Divide into 6

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