THE RUNWAY REPORT

CHANEL

The late Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection was arguably the most anticipated show of the season. Teary-eyed models and brand ambassadors including Penélope Cruz, Cara Delevingne and Luna Bijl poured out of chalet doors onto a snow-lined catwalk in Paris’ Grand Palais, which was transformed into a scene from the Alps. Looks were layered in checks and houndstooth tweeds topped with big, belted coats and intarsia knitwear—perfect for apres-ski. Accessories came in a variety of soft winter hues, including shearling 2.55 bags and minaudieres in the shape of gondolas.

HERMÈS

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s collection, which was inspired by the constellations, featured buttery-soft leather outerwear punctured with round silver studs, and jackets and jumpers with cosmic patterns. The house’s famous silk scarves, which are the first Hermès products Vanhee-Cybulski remembers seeing as a child, also inspired a variety of flowing silk blouses and dresses.

“I LIKE TO CHALLENGE GRAVITY AND PLAY WITH THE WAY YOU CUT A FABRIC, THE WAY YOU DIRECT IT. THE STRAIGHT GRAIN HAS A MORE CONTROLLED ATTITUDE, WHEREAS THE BIAS CUT IS MORE FEMININE; IT WAITS FOR ITS OWNER BEFORE TAKING ITS FINAL SHAPE—THEN IT COMES ALIVE” —NADÈGE