CHASING SAINTS

For centuries the Mediterranean has been one of the great harbors of human endeavor. Artifacts of great historical relevance can be found in nearly every seaside village regardless of size. Unlike many of the other cultural markers, those that trace the evolution of human interaction with the sea are not always highlighted in the tourist brochures. But mariners with a thirst for exploration stand to be rewarded by these off-the-beatenpath gems of maritime and religious history.

Adjacent to the riverine cores of two of the earliest civilizations, Mesopotamia and Egypt, the islands in the Mediterranean’s heart shine a particular light on the varied trajectories and interactions that nurtured this maritime mecca. Last spring, the 94-foot Trinity-Halter expedition yacht departed Sardinia with one goal: to seek out the storied riches of culture, history, art and architecture in the Middle Sea—and of course, the culture, history, art and architecture of the sea itself were of particular interest. On board were myself as captain, my wife,