FOOD & WINE Perfect Pairings: Wines and Foods that Go Together
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FOOD & WINE Perfect Pairings - The Editors of Food & Wine
SPARKLING
CHAMPAGNE & OTHER SPARKLING WINES
Grilled Escarole Toasts with Trout Roe
Tuna Briks
Mexican Corn Popcorn
Potato-Apple Pancakes
Roasted Fingerling Potato & Pressed Caviar Canapés
Shrimp Cakes
Hand-Cut Fries with Smoked Aioli
Spinach & Prosciutto Ravioli
Provoleta with Oregano & Tomatoes
Spaghetti with Brussels Sprouts & Sausage
Asparagus & Bok Choy Frittata
Cauliflower & Gruyère Soufflé
Oysters on the Half Shell with Spiced Cucumbers
Extra-Crispy Fried Chicken
CHAMPAGNE
& OTHER SPARKLING WINES
CHAMPAGNE The grande dame of all sparkling wines, Champagne comes from the region of Champagne, in northern France, respected worldwide for wines of outstanding complexity and ageability. That said, the traditional method employed to make sparkling wine in Champagne has been used around the world for centuries. This method hinges on a two-step fermentation process: The first is carried out in a tank or barrel (as with most still wines), and the second step, by which the bubbles are instilled into the wine, takes place in the bottle.
Champagnes are made using varying percentages of three grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Percentages depend on the desired style, from light and delicate all the way to rich and vinous. There is no question that Champagne represents luxury and indulgence, but it’s also fantastic with crispy fried chicken or a bowl of salty potato chips. (The bubbles interact with salt in an almost magical way.) While Champagne is certainly excellent with appetizers, it can be equally delicious throughout the entire meal. Sommeliers, in fact, love to say that Champagne goes well with everything. Whether that’s true, there’s no denying that it’s tremendous with shellfish, scrambled eggs, creamy soups and pastas, fish and lighter meats.
PROSECCO Italy makes a handful of different sparkling wines (Franciacorta, Lambrusco, Moscato d’Asti), but its signature fizz is undeniably Prosecco, the lightly floral, fruit-forward sparkler from the regions just north of Venice. Prosecco can be made from a handful of different varieties, but the most important is a white grape called Glera. Prosecco winemakers utilize a much quicker (months versus years) process than Champagne producers for getting bubbles in their wine, called the Charmat method. In it, grapes are fermented as usual, then the juice is sealed in enormous pressurized stainless steel vats for the second fermentation. The result: frothy, approachable wines that are both affordable and light-hearted. A brunch go-to, Prosecco is otherwise best with lighter foods and starters.
CAVA While Cava can legally come from anywhere in Spain, the greatest examples are made in a part of Catalonia called Penedès. Here, producers make dry sparkling wines with varying amounts of three native Spanish grape varieties: Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Classic Cava has a distinct green apple perkiness and earthy depth that’s matched by soft bubbles. It goes well with cheese and charcuterie, as well as seafood, salads and crispy fried snacks.
Grilled Escarole Toasts with Trout Roe
TIME 45 min total
MAKES 6 servings
Winemaker Maggie Harrison transforms simple escarole into dinner party—worthy toasts: She tops each one with crème fraîche and trout roe, which is smaller, milder and less salty than salmon roe.
Two 10- to 12-oz. heads of escarole
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 Tbsp. chopped thyme
2 garlic cloves, minced
Kosher salt and pepper
Eighteen ½-inch-thick baguette slices, cut on a wide diagonal
Crème fraîche and trout roe, for serving
STEP 1 Light a grill. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Holding the escarole by the root end, dip the heads in the water to release any dirt between the leaves. Shake off the excess water.
STEP 2 In a small bowl, whisk the ½ cup of olive oil with the thyme and garlic. Brush escarole with garlic oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat until charred outside and tender within, about 20 minutes; brush a few times with garlic oil during grilling. Transfer to a work surface and let cool, then coarsely chop.
STEP 3 Brush the baguette slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill until lightly charred on both sides, about 2 minutes.
STEP 4 In a large bowl, toss escarole with remaining garlic oil; season with salt and pepper. Top the toasts with the escarole, crème fraîche and roe and serve. —Maggie Harrison
WINE TIP
Crisp Champagne is an outstanding match for the briny trout roe, rich crème fraîche and garlicky grilled bitter greens here.
Tuna Briks
TIME 30 min total
MAKES 8 small pies
Briks are small, triangular savory pastries made throughout Tunisia with fillings that range from meat and egg to mashed potato. A universal ingredient, though, is harissa, a fiery North African chile paste. This version is wrapped in store-bought phyllo dough and filled with scallions, capers and canned tuna.
Two 7-oz. cans tuna packed in water, drained well and flaked
¼ cup finely chopped scallions
¼ cup chopped drained capers
¼ cup chopped parsley
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. harissa
Kosher salt and pepper
6 sheets of phyllo dough
1 large egg, beaten
Canola oil, for frying
STEP 1 In a medium bowl, combine tuna, scallions, capers, parsley, olive oil and harissa. Season with salt and pepper and mix gently.
STEP 2 On a work surface, make 2 stacks of 3 phyllo sheets each. Cut each stack crosswise into four 4-by-12-inch strips. Work with 1 strip at a time, keeping the rest covered with a damp kitchen towel. Place a heaping ¼ cup of the tuna filling at the end of a strip closest to you. Brush the edge of the other end with the beaten egg. Fold the corner of the phyllo over filling to form a triangle. Continue folding the triangle up and over itself until you reach the end of the strip; press to adhere. Repeat with the remaining phyllo strips, filling and beaten egg.
STEP 3 In a large cast-iron skillet, heat ¼ inch of canola oil until shimmering. Fry 4 of the phyllo triangles over moderately low heat, turning occasionally, until golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the briks to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Repeat with 4 remaining phyllo triangles. Serve hot. —Kay Chun
PREP AHEAD The filled phyllo triangles can be refrigerated for up to 3 hours before frying.
Mexican Corn Popcorn
TIME 30 min total
MAKES 6 servings
My absolute favorite thing to pair with Champagne is popcorn,
says Jen Pelka of The Riddler Champagne bar in San Francisco, where this spicy version is a signature snack.
½ cup white cheese powder, such as King Arthur Vermont Cheese Powder (see Note)
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. chipotle chile powder
1 tsp. crushed dried cilantro
½ tsp. ground dried lime zest or 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest
¼ tsp. cayenne
⅓ cup canola oil
¾ cup popping corn
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
STEP 1 In a small bowl, mix cheese powder with salt, chile powder, cilantro, lime zest and cayenne.
STEP 2 In a large saucepan, combine the canola oil and popping corn. Cover and cook over moderately high heat until corn starts to pop. Shake the pan and cook, shaking occasionally, until the corn stops popping, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, add the melted butter and toss to coat. Add the cheese mixture, toss again and serve. —Jen Pelka
NOTE King Arthur Vermont Cheese Powder is available at kingarthurflour.com.
Potato-Apple Pancakes
TIME 25 min total
MAKES 12 pancakes
Tart Granny Smith apple and fresh dill boost the flavor of these crispy potato pancakes. They’re fabulous on their own or with sour cream or slices of smoked salmon.
2 baking potatoes, peeled and grated on the large holes of a box grater
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and grated on the large holes of a box grater
¼ cup chopped dill
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and pepper
6 Tbsp. canola oil
Sour cream, for serving
STEP 1 Squeeze all the excess water from the potatoes and apple and place them in a medium bowl. Add the dill and flour, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat thoroughly.
STEP 2 In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Scoop four ¼-cup mounds of the potato mixture into skillet; press gently to flatten. Cook over moderately high heat, turning once and adding 1 tablespoon of oil, until golden and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. Drain briefly on a paper towel–lined plate. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture and oil. Serve with sour cream. —Kay Chun
Roasted Fingerling Potato & Pressed Caviar Canapés
TIME 35 min total
MAKES 4 servings
For this easy yet impressive hors d’oeuvre, master chef Jacques Pépin tops roasted fingerling potatoes with sour cream and a diamond-shaped garnish of pressed caviar.
10 fingerling potatoes, scrubbed and halved lengthwise
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. pressed caviar (2 oz.)
½ cup sour cream
Chives cut into twenty 1-inch lengths, for garnish
STEP 1 Preheat the oven to 400°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the potatoes with the oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange the potatoes cut side down and roast for about 25 minutes, until tender and browned on the bottoms. Let cool to warm.
STEP 2 Meanwhile, roll caviar between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to a 5-by-6-inch rectangle about ⅛ inch thick. Cut sheet into 20 diamonds or rectangles.
STEP 3 Transfer the potatoes to a platter cut side up and dollop sour cream on each. Top with the caviar diamonds and garnish with the chives. Serve right away. —Jacques Pépin
Shrimp Cakes
TIME 30 min total
MAKES 4 servings
These tender little shrimp cakes, spiked with scallions, lemon zest and smoked paprika, are addictive, especially with the spicy mayo that’s served on the side.
½ cup mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. hot sauce
1 lb. shelled and deveined shrimp, chopped
¾ cup panko
2 large eggs
3 Tbsp. finely chopped scallions
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
¾ tsp. smoked paprika
Kosher salt and pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges, for serving
STEP 1 In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with the hot sauce.
STEP 2 In a large bowl, mix the chopped shrimp with the panko, eggs, scallions, lemon zest, smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Form the mixture into eight ¾-inch-thick cakes.
STEP 3 In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. In batches, add the shrimp cakes and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plates and serve with the spicy mayonnaise and lemon. —Justin Chapple
Hand-Cut Fries with Smoked Aioli
TIME 1 hr total
MAKES 6 servings
Serving homemade fries will earn you favorite-cook status. Double-frying them ensures that the potatoes are ultra-crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
¾ cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove
1 tsp. pimentón de la Vera (smoked Spanish paprika)
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Kosher salt and pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
3 large, very firm baking potatoes (about 2 lbs.), peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick sticks
STEP 1 In a food processor, puree the mayonnaise with the garlic, smoked paprika and lemon juice. Stir in 2 teaspoons of the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Scrape the aioli into a small bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.
STEP 2 In a large saucepan, heat 1 inch of oil to 250°. In a large bowl, rinse the potatoes and pat thoroughly dry. Working in batches, fry the potatoes until they are almost tender and look dry on the outside, about 6 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain.
STEP 3 Increase the oil temperature to 350°. Cook the fries in batches until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain and immediately season with salt. Sprinkle the fries with the remaining 1 tablespoon of parsley and serve with the smoked aioli. —Michael Paley
WINE TIP
Salt and fat love Champagne