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Chowderland: Hearty Soups & Stews with Sides & Salads to Match

Chowderland: Hearty Soups & Stews with Sides & Salads to Match

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Chowderland: Hearty Soups & Stews with Sides & Salads to Match

valutazioni:
4/5 (3 valutazioni)
Lunghezza:
261 pagine
1 ora
Pubblicato:
May 5, 2015
ISBN:
9781612123769
Formato:
Libro

Descrizione

Fifty-seven mouthwatering soup and stew recipes from the award-winning New England food writer and author of Lobster!

There is no food more quintessential to New England than chowder, but this beloved dish has a spread around the world, evolving new and delicious variations along the way. A traditional food of fisherman, chowder is typically made with seafood, but as food author Brooke Dojny demonstrates in this easy-to-use cookbook, there are plenty of vegetarian, meat-based, and poultry-based chowder recipes as well.

In Chowderland, you’ll learn to make Boston-Style Creamy Clam Chowder, Portuguese “Caldo Verde” Chowder, Northwest Salmon Chowder with Leeks and Peas, Double Corn Summer Chowder, and more—plus tasty side dishes, salads, and desserts. Whether you’re looking for a hearty meal on a cozy winter evening or a fresh gumbo perfect for a summer lunch, you’ll turn to this delicious collection again and again.
Pubblicato:
May 5, 2015
ISBN:
9781612123769
Formato:
Libro

Informazioni sull'autore

Brooke Dojny is an award-winning food journalist and cookbook author who specializes in writing about New England food. She is the author of Chowderland, Lobster!, The New England Clam Shack Cookbook, and Dishing Up® Maine. Dojny writes regularly for the Portland Herald. She lives on the Blue Hill Peninsula in Maine.

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Anteprima del libro

Chowderland - Brooke Dojny

Acknowledgments

Thank you to the following people who helped immensely with thinking, providing historical background, cooking, and tasting: Melanie Barnard, Donna and Marston Brewer, Beth Bunker, David Chalfant, Phyllis Corcoran, Matt Dojny, Maury Dojny, Richard Dojny, Sarah and Tony Everdell, Patti and Floyd Gelini, Tad and Lindsay Goodale, Lee and Don Holmes, Sally Jennings, Charmaine Jensen, Barbara and Prep Keyes, Susan Maloney, Sandy Oliver, Carol and Peter Osgood, Nancy and Jimmy Reinish, Nancy Sandreuter, Bill and Joy Schmitt, Pam and Ralph Siewers, Veronica and Michael Stubbs, Jasper White, and Sybil Young. And very special thanks to Martha Maury Welty for her excellent testing.

I’m grateful, as always, to my agent, Judith Weber, and to all the wonderfully talented staff at Storey Publishing — amazing editors, designers, photographers and publicists. Thank you, especially, to Margaret Sutherland, Matt LaBombard, and Sarah Guare.

Contents

Dedication

Acknowledgements

Welcome to Chowderland

1. The Chowder Pot

Boston-Style Creamy Clam Chowder

Connecticut Shoreline Semi-Clear Clam Chowder

Milky Maine Steamer Chowder

Manhattan-Style Clam Chowder

Rocky Point Red Chowder

Classic Rhode Island Clear Clam Chowder

Spring's First Chowder with Fresh Herbs and Peas

Smoked Fish and Corn Chowder for Floyd

Nor'easter Baked Fish Chowder

Classic Down East Haddock Chowder

Bermuda Fish Chowder

Northwest Salmon Chowder with Leeks and Peas

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder

Stonington Mixed Seafood Chowder

Mussel Chowder with Light Curry and Colorful Vegetables

Shrimp, Fennel, and Red Potato Chowder

Double Corn Summer Chowder

Vineyard Chicken and Corn Chowder

Saint Patrick's Chowder

Day-after-Thanksgiving Chowder

Caldo Verde Chowder

Late Summer Squash Chowder

Succotash Chowder with Tomatoes and Basil

Spring-Dug Parsnip Chowder

Broccoli and Cheddar Chowder

2. Splendid Seafood Stews and a Bisque

American Bouillabaisse with Garlic Toasts and Sriracha Rouille

Creole Seafood Gumbo

Oysters Rockefeller Stew

Portuguese Seafood Stew with Chouriço

Penobscot Bay Scallop Stew

The Real Deal Lobster Bisque

Traditional Lobster Stew

3. Accompanying Breads

Narragansett Clam Fritters

Crusty Skillet Cornbread

Red Pepper-Scallion Pita Toasts

Rosemary-Onion Focaccia

Salt and Pepper Biscuits

Kale Toasts

4. Salads Especially for Chowders

Beet Salad on Arugula

Brussels Sprout Slaw

Orange, Radish, and Basil Salad

Shingled Tomato and Nectarine Salad

Grilled Summer Vegetable Salad

Vinegary Cabbage Slaw

Winter Greens

Baby Kale Salad

5. The Perfect Finish

Bittersweet Chocolate-Pecan Tart

Lemon Sponge Pudding Cake

Lattice-Top Blueberry Pie

Plum-Almond Galette

Black Pepper Brownies

Sour Lemon Tart in a Graham Cracker Crust

Oversize Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies

Strawberry-Rhubarb Cobbler

Cranberry-Apple Upside-Down Cake

Dark and Sticky Candied Gingerbread

Spiced Hermit Bar Cookies

Metric Conversion

Other Storey Books by Brooke Dojny

Copyright

Share Your Experience!

Welcome to Chowderland

Chowder — mostly seafood but sometimes with just vegetables or chicken or a combination thereof — is an old European/North American dish that has traveled with us for hundreds of years, yet it emerges into the twenty-first century more popular than ever. Relatively small amounts of animal protein (or none at all) paired with potatoes, onions, other vegetables, and broth or milk result in the kind of simple-to-make, delicious, and sustainable one-pot dish that we love to eat today.

Simple Truth from a Maine Fisherman’s Wife

You can make a chowder out of anything.

— Donna Brewer, Stonington, Maine

Much lore, history, and myth surround the subject of chowder — its origins, its place in literary history, and its evolution from shipboard fare thickened with ship’s biscuit to today’s versions that are typically bound with flour or the starchiness of potatoes. Chowder’s origins remain shrouded in mystery, but food historians agree that it evolved aboard French and English fishing boats and in the Nova Scotia and New England coastal communities where fishermen settled. The word is probably from chaudière, the French term for the cauldron in which fishermen cooked their chowders. The first American cookbook to include a chowder recipe was the 1800 edition of Amelia Simmons’s American Cookery, which listed the ingredients as bass, salt pork, crackers, and a side dish of potatoes. By the 1840s, potatoes had become a standard chowder ingredient, eventually replacing crackers altogether.

Chowder moved along with the westward expansion, incorporating indigenous ingredients along the way, including chopped Pismo clams in California, geoducks along the Oregon coast, and salmon in the Northwest. San Franciscans hollow out round loaves of sourdough bread to use as an edible bowl for chowder.

Chowder began as a fish soup, but, as with many things culinary, the dish has evolved and broadened over the years. Since I must come up with some sort of chowder definition, here it is: a chunky, hearty soup, usually made with salt pork or bacon, onions, potatoes, the main ingredient (often seafood), and a liquid. That’s the starting point. From there, home cooks and chefs add or subtract — leaving out the pork to create a meatless brew, replacing onions with leeks or garlic, switching up the liquid — with potatoes as a constant.

Potatoes

Potatoes are a crucial ingredient in chowders, and I specify which type to use in each recipe. Most recipes call for a floury potato, such as all-purpose or Yukon Gold, that releases starch and helps thicken the chowder. Some recipes call for red-skinned potatoes, which I like in more delicate chowders. The chowders that use these less-starchy potatoes often include a little flour to boost their thickening power.

To dice or slice potatoes, I recommend the Japanese chef’s knife called Santoku. It has grooves that allow for better separation between blade and potato — hence, less sticking.

Salt Pork and Bacon

Most chowder recipes begin with rendering (trying out is the old-fashioned term) diced salt pork or bacon, removing the cooked bits for adding back later, and using the full-of-flavor fat to continue building the chowder. Salt pork and bacon can almost always be used interchangeably, but each recipe in this book will specify one or the other — or either. Salt pork was the early American cook’s basic cooking fat and also served as seasoning, accenting chowders with its incomparably rich, salty flavor. In recipes for very traditional chowders (Boston-Style Creamy Clam Chowder, for instance), I call for salt pork or bacon, putting the salt pork first to indicate my preference; others call only for bacon.

Some chefs insist on making chowder with applewood-smoked or at least thick-sliced slab bacon. I call for just plain bacon because I think the standard commercial product is fine, but if you happen to have special artisan bacon, so much the better.

Salt pork is usually available in the cured meats section of the supermarket. The first thing you need to do with salt pork is slice off the thick rind. Presliced salt pork makes dicing easier, especially if the pork is slightly frozen first. You can also cut the pork into chunks and pulse in a food processor to finely chop it. Modern salt pork seldom releases much fat, so it is usually cooked with additional butter. After browning and removing salt pork or bacon bits from the pot, pour the rendered fat into a glass measure to check the quantity, or simply estimate the quantity visually.

Chowder Orator

American statesman and orator Daniel Webster was considered an authority on chowders. He once delivered a lengthy speech on the floor of the U.S. Senate about the virtues of chowder.

Crackers

Early chowders were thickened and bound with a very hard, flat cracker called ship’s biscuit, or hardtack. In the 1800s ship’s biscuit was replaced by potatoes, and crackers moved to the side as an accompaniment. A bowl of restaurant chowder almost always comes with a little packet of small, plain, crunchy oyster crackers, which can be sprinkled over the chowder or eaten on the side. Nabisco’s Crown Pilot crackers, which were the direct descendant of hardtack ship’s biscuit and every chowder aficionado’s cracker of choice, were discontinued several years ago. Vermont-made common crackers or saltines are good substitutes.

Which Pot?

Size matters, but even more important is the pot’s material. I begin almost every chowder recipe with the words Cook the salt pork or bacon in a large heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. You can use a pot of almost any material — enamel-clad cast iron, heavy aluminum, stainless-clad aluminum — as long as the pot is heavy gauge. Flimsy, thin cookware (such as speckled tin, steel canning kettles, or even some thin-walled stockpots) heats unevenly, and bacon or salt pork will burn, onions will scorch, and, most crucially, heated milk or cream can curdle. Dutch ovens are thick-walled pots with tight-fitting lids, such as the enamel-coated cast-iron cookware made by Le Creuset.

When making a chowder

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  • (2/5)
    To write Chowderland, Brooke Dojny has collected a range of recipes using the criteria that a chowder is "a chunky, hearty soup, usually made with salt pork or bacon, onions, potatoes, the main ingredient (often seafood), and a liquid." The range is from New England cream chowders to other chunky soups from around the world, with a digression into bisque, which, of course, is not chunky. Still, even with this very broad definition of a chowder, Ms Dojny could not find enough recipes to complete a full cookbook so she has included an assortment of breads, sides and desserts that she feels completes a chowder-based meal.Well, I don't really think some of the stew recipes Ms Donjy provides qualify as chowders, which is the point of the title, and I am not interested in her ideas for breads, salads and desserts. The stew recipes all seem very competent of themselves, but the book does not have a unified theme and is too full of extra stuff.In the advance review copy I received, the fanciful font and colors used for the headings are unattractive and clash with the realistic photos. The review copy contains a photo of the Chatham Pier Fish Market with the flag at half-staff as if in mourning.I received a review copy of "Chowderland: Hearty Soups & Stews with Sides & Salads to Match" by Brooke Dojny (Storey Publishing) through NetGalley.com.
  • (5/5)
    I have lived in New England for the past 30 years and we take our chowder very seriously. Lucky for us, we have a new book that gives us recipes for 57 chowders and seven stews. I really loved the layout of the book. The recipes were stated simply and each recipe contained everything you need to know about to cook that particular type of chowder including which type of clam to use, how to clean the fish, how to store it and side dishes, breads and salads to match. Intermittent bits of information about fish and chowders are woven throughout the book and it was fun to learn facts and folklore of chowder. The pictures were vibrant and nicely laid out. I made two of the chowders (sweet corn chowder and Manhattan corn chowder) and they were tasty and easy to make. I would highly recommend this book to anyone who loves chowder as much as I do, especially if you do not know where to begin. Thank you NetGalley for allowing me to review this book for an honest opinion
  • (5/5)
    I haven't historically been a big chowder fan. I'm not even sure whether I've ever had clam chowder. I know, I know. What kind of American has never even tried clam chowder??But I'm a pesctarian. That means I eat a lot of fish and seafood, along with vegetarian. And how can you be pescatarian and not eat chowder? Even if I don't want to eat clam chowder, there are other kinds of chowder. Right?Ummmm...what other kinds of chowder is there? Well, I knew about fish chowder, and then there's.........Hmmm.Okay. I guess I really do need this book!Well, I can tell you that the cover photo looks delicious! Upon opening this book, I found that it is really visually appealing. I liked the Table of Contents, which looks like an old hand-drawn map.The author starts with a brief history of chowder, typical ingredients and what makes chowder "chowder". The next chapter has some typical chowder-type recipes. There are clear chowders, milky white chowders, red chowders. Next come seafood stews and bisque. Then tasty accompanying breads, salads and desserts.I made the Smoked Fish and Corn Chowder for Floyd recipe from the book. I used smoked salmon rather than mackerel or trout as suggested in the recipe, and one or two other minor tweaks or substitutions. The salmon created a greasy orange film in the chowder, so it didn't look like a creamy white chowder, but ohhhhhh the flavor! It was pretty good the first day, but the second and third days? Oh so good! Red potatoes and corn with cream and smoked salmon. Yum!My final word: Full of beautiful photos and chock full of flavor-packed chowder recipes, this book is for chowder-lovers and novices alike. There are a number of traditional clam chowders as well as lots of fish and seafood, chicken and veggies. There is even a "Day-After-Thanksgiving Chowder"! If your idea of a deliciously comforting meal is centered around a steaming pot of chowder, then this book is for you!