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    The Rough Guide to Morocco (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Morocco (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Morocco (Travel Guide eBook)
    Ebook1,356 pages17 hours

    The Rough Guide to Morocco (Travel Guide eBook)

    By Rough Guides

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    About this ebook

    World-renowned 'tell it like it is' guidebook.

    Discover Morocco with this comprehensive, entertaining, 'tell it like it is' Rough Guide, packed with comprehensive practical information and our experts' honest and independent recommendations.

    Whether you plan to hike in the Atlas Mountains, surf on the Atlantic coast, shop in the souks or camp in the Sahara, The Rough Guide to Morocco will help you discover the best places to explore, sleep, eat, drink and shop along the way.

    Features of The Rough Guide to Morocco:
    - Detailed regional coverage: provides in-depth practical information for each step of all kinds of trip, from intrepid off-the-beaten-track adventures, to chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas. Regions covered include: Tangier and the northwest, the Mediterranean coast, Fez, the Atlantic coast, Marrakesh, the High Atlas, the southern oases routes, Agadir and Western Sahara.
    - Honest independent reviews: written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, and recommendations you can truly trust, our writers will help you get the most from your trip to Morocco.
    - Meticulous mapping: always full-colour, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys. Find your way around Marrakesh, Fez and many more locations without needing to get online.
    - Fabulous full-colour photography: features a richness of inspirational colour photography, including vibrant images of the extraordinary blue town of Chefchaouen and awe-inspiring views of the rolling dunes of the Sahara.
    - Things not to miss: Rough Guides' rundown of the High Atlas passes, Fez, Volubilis and Meknes, Telouet and Essaouira's best sights and top experiences.
    - Itineraries: carefully planned routes will help you organise your trip, and inspire and inform your on-the-road experiences.
    - Basics section: packed with essential pre-departure information including getting there, getting around, accommodation, food and drink, health, the media, festivals, sports and outdoor activities, culture and etiquette, shopping and more.
    - Background information: comprehensive Contexts chapter provides fascinating insights into Morocco, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary. 
    - Covers: Tangier, Tetouan and the northwest, the Mediterranean coast and the Rif, Fez, Meknes and the Middle Atlas, the Atlantic coast: Rabat to Essaouira, Marrakesh, the High Atlas, the southern oases routes, Agadir, the Souss and Anti-Atlas, the Tarfaya Strip and Western Sahara.

    About Rough Guides: Rough Guides have been inspiring travellers for over 35 years, with over 30 million copies sold globally. Synonymous with practical travel tips, quality writing and a trustworthy 'tell it like it is' ethos, the Rough Guides list includes more than 260 travel guides to 120+ destinations, gift-books and phrasebooks.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateJun 1, 2019
    ISBN9781789195651
    The Rough Guide to Morocco (Travel Guide eBook)
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      THE HIGH ATLAS

      Contents

      INTRODUCTION

      Where to go

      When to go

      Author picks

      Things not to miss

      Itineraries

      BASICS

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Shopping

      Travelling with children

      Travel essentials

      THE GUIDE

      1Tangier, Tetouan and the northwest

      2The Mediterranean coast and the Rif

      3Fez, Meknes and the Middle Atlas

      4The Atlantic coast: Rabat to Essaouira

      5Marrakesh

      6The High Atlas

      7The southern oases routes

      8Agadir, the Souss and Anti-Atlas

      9The Tarfaya Strip and Western Sahara

      CONTEXTS

      History

      Islam in Morocco

      Moroccan architecture

      Wildlife and the environment

      Moroccan music

      Books

      Moroccan Arabic

      Glossary

      SMALL PRINT

      Shutterstock

      Introduction to

      Morocco

      For Westerners, Morocco holds an immediate and enduring fascination. Though just an hour’s ride on the ferry from Spain, it seems at once very far from Europe, with a culture – Islamic and deeply traditional – that is almost wholly unfamiliar. Throughout the country, despite the years of French and Spanish colonial rule and the presence of modern and cosmopolitan cities like Rabat and Casablanca, a more distant past constantly makes its presence felt. Fez, perhaps the most beautiful of all Arab cities, maintains a life still rooted in medieval times, when a Moroccan kingdom stretched from Senegal to northern Spain, while in the mountains of the Atlas and the Rif, it’s still possible to draw up tribal maps of the Berber population. As a backdrop to all this, the country’s physical make-up is extraordinary: from the Mediterranean coast, through four mountain ranges, to the empty sand and scrub of the Sahara.

      Across much of Morocco, the legacy of colonial occupation is still felt in many aspects of daily life. The Spanish zone contained Tetouan and the Rif, the Mediterranean and the northern Atlantic coasts, Sidi Ifni and the Tarfaya Strip; the French zone the plains and the main cities (Fez, Marrakesh, Casablanca and Rabat), as well as the Atlas. And while Ceuta and Melilla are still the territory of Spain, it is the French – who ruled their protectorate more closely – who had the most lasting effect on Moroccan culture, Europeanizing the cities to a strong degree and firmly imposing their language, which is spoken today by all educated Moroccans (after Moroccan Arabic or one of the three local Berber languages).

      This blend of the exotic and the familiar, the diversity of landscapes, the contrasts between Ville Nouvelle and ancient Medina, all add up to make Morocco an intense and rewarding experience, and a country that is ideally suited to independent travel – with enough time, you can cover a whole range of activities, from hiking in the Atlas and sandboarding in the Sahara to getting lost in the back alleys of Fez and Marrakesh. It can be hard at times to come to terms with the privilege of your position as a tourist in a country with severe poverty, and there is, too, occasional hassle from unofficial guides, but Morocco is essentially a safe and politically stable place to visit: the death in 1999 of King Hassan II, the Arab world’s longest-serving leader, was followed by an easy transition to his son, Mohammed VI, and the country pretty much carried on as normal while the Arab Spring uprisings toppled governments in nearby Libya, Tunisia and Egypt. Indeed, your enduring impressions are likely to be overwhelmingly positive, shaped by encounters with Morocco’s powerful tradition of hospitality, generosity and openness. This is a country people return to again and again.

      < Back to Introduction

      Where to go

      Geographically, the country divides into four basic zones: the coast (Mediterranean and Atlantic); the great cities of the plains; the Rif and Atlas mountains; and the oases and desert of the pre- and fully fledged Sahara. With two or three weeks – even two or three months – you can’t expect to cover all of this, though it’s easy enough (and highly recommended) to take in something of each aspect.

      Broadly speaking, the coast is best enjoyed in the north at Tangier – still shaped by its old international port status despite undergoing considerable renovation – Asilah and Larache, and in the south at El Jadida, Essaouira, perhaps the most easy-going resort, or remote Sidi Ifni. Agadir, the main package-tour resort, is less worthwhile – but a functional enough base for exploration.

      Inland, where the real interest of Morocco lies, the outstanding cities are Fez and Marrakesh. The great imperial capitals of the country’s various dynasties, they are almost unique in the Arab world for the chance they offer (particularly in the former) to witness city life that, in patterns and appearance, remains in large part medieval. For monuments, Fez is the highlight, though Marrakesh is for most visitors the more enjoyable.

      Fact file

      Morocco’s area of 446,550 square kilometres (722,550 sq km including the Western Sahara) makes it slightly smaller than France or Spain, slightly larger than California. The population of just under 34 million compares with just eight million at independence in 1956.

      Nearly 99 percent of Moroccans are Muslim, with 1 percent Christian and a tiny minority (an estimated 6000 people) Jewish. The literacy rate is 68.5 percent (78.6 percent for men, 58.8 percent for women).

      The main languages are Arabic, Berber (Tarfit, Tamazight and Tashelhaït) and French. Spanish is still widely spoken in the north, and English is increasingly spoken by young people, especially in tourist areas.

      Morocco gained independence from French and Spanish rule on March 2, 1956. The head of state is King Mohammed VI, who succeeded his father Hassan II on July 30, 1999. The government is chosen from an elected legislature and is currently run by Prime Minister Saadeddine Othmani of the moderate Islamist PJD (Party of Justice and Development). The main opposition parties are the Istiqlal (Independence) Party, Morocco’s oldest political group, and the RNI (National Rally of Independents).

      Such is the importance of date palms in the Moroccan south that oases are traditionally measured by the number of their palms rather than their population, and it was once illegal to sell a date tree, a historically vital source of food.

      Despite the beauty of zellij work in medersas and fountains across the country, it is thought that there is at least one flaw in every mosaic due to the Islamic belief that only Allah can create perfection.

      Arabs and Berbers

      The Amazigh – more commonly known as Berbers – were Morocco’s original inhabitants. The Arabs arrived at the end of the seventh century, after sweeping across North Africa and the Middle East in the name of their revolutionary ideology, Islam. Eventually, nearly all the Berbers converted to the new religion and were immediately accepted as fellow Muslims by the Arabs. When Muslim armies invaded the Iberian peninsula from Morocco, the bulk of the troops were Berbers, and the two ethnic groups pretty much assimilated. Today, most Moroccans can claim both Arab and Berber ancestors, though a few (especially Shereefs, who trace their ancestry back to the Prophet Mohammed, and have the title Moulay) claim to be pure Arabs. In the Rif and Atlas mountains, and in the Souss Valley, though, groups of pure Berbers remain, and retain their ancient languages (Tarfit, spoken by about 1.5m people in the Rif; Tamazight, spoken by over 3m people in the Atlas; and Tashelhaït, spoken by around 4m people in the Souss Valley region). In recent years, there has been a resurgence in Berber pride (often symbolized by the Berber letter Ж); TV programmes are now broadcast in Berber languages, and they are even taught in schools, but the country’s majority language remains Arabic.

      iStock

      Travel in the south is, on the whole, easier and more relaxing than in the sometimes frenetic north. This is certainly true of the mountain ranges, where the Rif can feel disturbingly anarchic, while the southerly Atlas ranges (Middle, High and Anti-) that cut right across the interior are both beautiful and accessible. Hiking in the High Atlas, following old mule paths through mud-brick villages or tackling some of the area’s impressive peaks, is increasingly popular, especially around North Africa’s highest mountain, Jebel Toubkal, though more and more trekkers are being tempted east by the quieter trails that cut through the beguiling Aït Bouguemez. Summer treks are possible at all levels of experience and altitude, and despite inroads made by commercialization, the vast majority of the area remains essentially undiscovered – like the Alps must have been in the nineteenth century.

      Equally exploratory in mood are the great southern routes beyond the Atlas, amid the oases of the pre-Sahara. Major routes here can be travelled by bus, minor ones by rented car or local taxi, the really remote ones by 4WD vehicles or by getting lifts on local camions (trucks), sharing space with market produce and livestock. The oases, around Skoura, Tinghir, Zagora and Erfoud, or (for the committed) Tata, are classic images of the Arab world, vast palmeries stretching into desert horizons. Equally memorable is the architecture that they share with the Atlas – bizarre and fabulous pisé (mud) kasbahs and ksour, with Gothic-looking turrets and multi-patterned walls.

      iStock

      TANNERIES, FEZ

      Further south, you can follow a route through the Western Sahara all the way down to Dakhla, just 22km short of the Tropic of Cancer, where the weather is scorching even in midwinter.

      < Back to Introduction

      When to go

      As far as the climate goes, it is better to visit the south – or at least the desert routes – outside midsummer, when for most of the day it’s far too hot for casual exploration, especially if you’re dependent on public transport. However, temperatures in July and August – the hottest months – reach an ideal level on the coast, although resorts often get overrun with Moroccan tourists flocking here to escape the inland heat.

      Spring, which comes late by European standards (around April and May), is perhaps the best overall time, with a summer climate in the south and in the mountains, as well as on the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts. Relatively moderate conditions also permeate the country in early autumn (September and October), another optimal time to travel. Winter can be perfect by day in the south, though desert nights can get very cold – a major consideration if you’re staying in the cheaper hotels, which rarely have heating. If you’re planning to hike in the mountains, it’s best to keep to the months from April to October unless you have some experience of snow conditions.

      Weather apart, the Islamic religious calendar and its related festivals will have the most seasonal effect on your travel. The most important factor is Ramadan, the month of daytime fasting; this can be a problem for transport, and especially hiking, though the festive evenings do much to compensate.

      < Back to Introduction

      Author picks

      Our authors have haggled in the souks and camped in the desert, clocked up hundreds of kilometres aboard buses and on mules, and generally consumed more mint tea than can possibly be good for them. Here are a few of their favourite things…

      Helping Hands in the Happy Valley Shop at truly fair-trade associations in the Aït Bouguemez valley by visiting Anou-certified cooperatives, where artisans in remote regions sell their work directly to customers.

      Take the tram Modern tramway networks have been constructed in Rabat and Casablanca, offering an easier way to get to the sights while rubbing shoulders with the locals.

      The sound of the muezzin The call to prayer is one of the most evocative sounds in Morocco, whether it’s sweeping across the rooftops of an imperial city or echoing through a mountain village.

      Stargaze in the Sahara Head to North Africa’s first private observatory, Kasbah Hotel SaharaSky, for an unforgettable evening of rooftop stargazing and venture onwards into the Erg Chigaga to camp in one-million-star accommodation.

      Surfing in Taghazout A line-up of good right-hand breaks have made this friendly, easy-going little fishing village Morocco’s top surf spot.

      The painted rocks of Tafraout Out in the middle of nowhere, tiny Tafraout is surrounded by some of Morocco’s most jaw-dropping scenery, including an incongruous collection of blue-painted boulders that make it seem as though the sky has somehow leaked into the ground.

      Middle Earth in the Middle Atlas The charming little town of Bhalil is bypassed by most visitors, yet it is one of the most interesting places in the Middle Atlas, its hillsides pocked with cave houses where you can share mint tea and msimmen pancakes with the Berber families that still call them home.

      symbol.

      Alamy

      SURFERS AT TAGHAZOUT

      Alamy

      ART DECO ARCHITECTURE, SIDI IFNI

      < Back to Introduction

      25

      things not to miss

      It’s not possible to see everything that Morocco has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective and subjective taste of the country’s highlights, in no particular order: fascinating cities, Roman ruins, mountain hikes and stunning buildings. All entries have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more. Coloured numbers refer to chapters in the Guide section.

      Getty Images

      1 Chefchaouen

      Simply the most beautiful small town in Morocco, its blue-washed walls enclosed by mountains.

      iStock

      2 Koutoubia Mosque

      The symbol of Marrakesh, the Koutoubia’s twelfth-century minaret is visible for miles around the city.

      iStock

      3 Camel trekking

      Venture into the Sahara on a camel trek from Zagora, M’Hamid or Merzouga.

      Alamy

      4 Atlas passes

      The nerve-shredding Tizi n’Test and the higher Tizi n’Tichka wend up over the Atlas mountains, providing breathtaking views along the way.

      iStock

      5 Cascades d’Ouzoud

      The most dramatic of the country’s waterfalls, with overhanging cafés, and a thunderous sheet of water that plunges into the pools below.

      Alamy

      6 Fez

      The most complete medieval city in the Arab world, Fez’s labyrinthine streets conceal ancient souks and iconic monuments, none more so than the exquisitely decorated Medersa Bou Inania.

      Shutterstock

      7 Tin Mal Mosque

      This great Almohad building stands isolated in an Atlas river valley.

      iStock

      8 Crafts

      From carpets and carpentry to leatherwork and ceramics, Morocco’s craft tradition is extraordinarily vibrant, and on magnificent show in its souks.

      Alamy

      9 Bab Oudaïa, Rabat

      The most beautiful gate of the medieval Moorish world.

      Shutterstock

      10 Tea

      Whisky Marocain (mint tea) is the accompaniment to any discussion or transaction.

      Alamy

      11 Telouet

      An evocative relic of the time when the infamous Glaoui clan ruled over the Atlas and Marrakesh.

      iStock

      12 Jemaa el Fna, Marrakesh

      Musicians, acrobats and storytellers converge each night on this spellbinding city square.

      Alamy

      13 Todra Gorge

      Take a walk (or a climb) in the majestic Todra Gorge, with its towering 300m canyon walls.

      Alamy

      14 Barbary Macaques

      Troupes of these endangered apes inhabit the cedar forests of the Middle Atlas.

      Suzanne Porter

      15 Sidi Ifni

      This old Spanish colonial town retains a seductive array of Art Deco buildings.

      iStock

      16 Casablanca

      Casa’s colonial architecture blends traditional Moroccan designs with French Art Deco into a distinctive style known as Mauresque.

      Alamy

      17 Essaouira

      Relax by the Atlantic at Morocco’s most popular resort, home to a growing windsurfing scene.

      iStock

      18 Volubilis & Moulay Idriss

      Visit the remarkable Roman ruins of Volubilis and stay at the holy Islamic town of Moulay Idriss.

      iStock

      19 Tangier

      The old International Zone, sometime-home of Bowles and Burroughs, has a uniquely edgy charm.

      Alamy

      20 Asilah

      This relaxed seaside town – setting for a first-class cultural festival in August – is home to one of the best beaches on the northwest coast.

      iStock

      21 Kasbahs and Oases

      Morocco’s southern oases are dotted with crumbling kasbahs and traditional Berber villages.

      Alamy

      22 Imilchil Moussem

      The Moroccan cultural calendar is packed with festivals but few can match the largesse of Imilchil’s three-day Marriage Festival.

      Shutterstock

      23 Majorelle Garden & YSL Museum, Marrakesh

      A lovely, mature botanical garden, once owned by Yves Saint-Laurent, with a new museum dedicated to his work next door.

      Shutterstock

      24 Riads

      These renovated old mansions, centred on a courtyard and often full of stylish designer touches, provide a tranquil retreat from the outside world.

      Alamy

      25 Trekking in the Atlas

      The High Atlas offer fantastic trekking opportunities, from day walks in the Toubkal Massif to expeditions through isolated valleys.

      < Back to Introduction

      Shutterstock

      Itineraries

      The following itineraries will take you right across Morocco, from the Medinas of Marrakesh to the mountains and the desert beyond. With bustling souks, vast palmeries and dizzying gorges, there is something for everyone, whether you’re on an exotic city break or looking to get away from it all on the back of a camel.

      A SHORT BREAK IN MARRAKESH

      DAY ONE

      Koutoubia Minaret Marvel at the pleasing proportions of this twelfth-century, 70m-high tower.

      Jemaa el Fna Head to the city’s famous central square, a feast of visual entertainment.

      Souks Shop for rugs and carpets in La Criée Berbère, or watch the dyers at work in Souk des Teinturiers.

      Dinner Packed come nightfall, the food stalls of Jemaa el Fna serve up couscous, fried fish and plenty more besides.

      DAY TWO

      Ben Youssef Medersa A textbook study in zellij, stucco and carved cedar wood.

      El Badi Palace It may now lie in ruins, but this once opulent palace is still a magnificent sight.

      Majorelle Garden Head to the Ville Nouvelle for Yves Saint-Laurent’s tranquil garden and brand-new museum.

      Dinner Book ahead for fine Marrakshi dining at Le Tobsil, an intimate palace restaurant on a smaller scale than most.

      A SHORT BREAK IN FEZ

      DAY TWO

      Medersa Bou Inania Arguably the finest building in Morocco, and a dazzling testament to the craftsmen of medieval Fez.

      Talâa Kebira Journey through the Medina past fondouks, mosques and souks specializing in everything from brass to henna.

      Dinner Sample the famous camel burger at hip little Café Clock.

      DAY TWO

      Nejjarine and Seffarine Take in the sights of Place en Nejjarine, the carpenters’ souk, before people watching on Place Seffarine.

      Tanneries A surreal scene: men standing knee-deep in vats of coloured dye, soaking leather skins.

      Fez el Jedid Home to the synagogues, overhanging houses and cemeteries that make up Morocco’s original Jewish district.

      Dinner Tuck into lovingly-cooked tagines in a family home at Dar Hatim.

      THE GRAND TOUR

      Factor in three weeks to cover this itinerary.

      Tangier Take a breather in one of the Petit Socco’s historic cafés.

      Chefchaouen Laidback and picturesque antidote to Tangier’s bustle.

      Meknes Wander Moulay Ismail’s monumental Ville Impériale before exploring the Roman ruins at nearby Volubilis.

      Fez Getting lost in the souks is a quintessential Moroccan experience.

      Merzouga The Erg Chebbi dunes make a memorable first sight of the Sahara.

      Aït Benhaddou The mother of all kasbahs, and one you won’t forget in a hurry.

      The High Atlas The best trekking in the country, along mule tracks and through Berber villages.

      Marrakesh Barter for babouches and catch the non-stop theatre of the Jemaa el Fna.

      Essaouira A fish supper is the perfect way to end the day in this artsy coastal town.

      OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

      Allow two weeks to tick off all of these.

      Kitesurfing in Essaouira Simply the best place in the country to try your hand at kitesurfing.

      Surfing near Taghazout Ride Killers, Anchor Point and other challenging breaks at this relaxed surfers’ hangout.

      Hiking in the High Atlas A wealth of scenic routes cut across the Toubkal Massif.

      Skiing at Oukaïmeden Hitting the slopes at Oukaïmeden is worth it for the novelty value alone.

      Camel trekking in the Erg Chigaga M’Hamid is the jumping-off point for camel trips into this remote section of the Sahara.

      Climbing in the Todra Gorge You could spend days scaling the rocky walls of this dramatic mountain gorge.

      Sandboarding in the Erg Chebbi Carving down the Grand Dune de Merzouga is a memorable experience.

      < Back to Introduction

      Suzanne Porter

      BABOUCHES

      Basics

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Culture and etiquette

      Shopping

      Travelling with children

      Travel essentials

      Getting there

      The simplest way to get to Morocco is, of course, to fly. Alternatively, you could fly to France, Spain or Gibraltar and pick up a ferry there; or, from Britain or Ireland, you could go all the way by land and sea.

      Fares usually depend on the season, the highest being at Christmas and the New Year, and at the peak of summer in July and August, when seats can also be scarce. Flying at weekends may cost more than midweek.

      You can often cut costs by going through an online or discount flight agent. The cheapest tickets will be subject to restrictions such as fixed dates, and some may require advance purchase.

      Note that, if you have to change planes en route, tight connections can make baggage loss more likely, and if your baggage goes astray in transit, you cannot have it delivered to your hotel in Morocco, but will have to go back to the airport to pick it up in person when it does arrive.

      Flights from the UK and Ireland

      royalairmaroc.com) runs direct scheduled flights twice tui.co.uk) serves Marrakesh and Agadir from Gatwick and Manchester, Marrakesh also from Birmingham. Flights typically take around three and a half hours.

      In addition to these, there are charter flights sunway.ie) from Ireland. Flights are usually from Gatwick, Manchester or Dublin, but occasionally other British and Irish airports, to Agadir and sometimes Marrakesh, although they do not necessarily fly all year and are not especially cheaper than scheduled services; they may also limit you to a two-week stay.

      Otherwise, you can get an indirect flight iberia.com) via Madrid.

      A return flight from London to Casablanca with RAM will cost £260–450, depending on the specific flights you choose, and how early you book. Fares on flights with the no-frills airlines depend on demand, and can vary from as little as £80 up to nearly £500 for the round trip (the earlier you book, the lower the price will be, and of course you pay extra for checked-in baggage). A no-frills flight from Ireland will cost around €120–450 return, depending on the time of year and the popularity of the flight.

      It is also possible, and often cheaper, to take a flight to Málaga or Gibraltarportillo.avanzabus.com for details).

      Flights from the US and Canada

      aircanada.com) also fly from Montreal. The alternative is to take an indirect flight delta.com) in conjunction with a European carrier.

      Rough Guides online

      roughguides.com. Read in-depth information on destinations worldwide, make use of our unique trip-planner, book transport and accommodation, check out other travellers’ recommendations and share your own experiences.

      A better kind of travel

      At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. All Rough Guides’ flights are carbon-offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of environmental charities.

      From New York, you can expect to pay (including tax) US$1000 in high season, or US$660 in low season for the cheapest flight to Casablanca. From Montreal, the fare will be Can$1800/850 in high/low season. Getting to Morocco from the west coast will obviously cost more: expect to pay upwards of US$1500/750 to Casablanca from LA in high/low season, or Can$2000/1200 from Vancouver.

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      There are no direct flights from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa to Morocco. From Australasiaairnz.co.nz) in conjunction with their partners in Europe, which has the advantage of offering a wider choice of departure airports. For the cheapest through tickets, which may require two changes of plane en route, you can expect to pay Aus$2550/1500 in high/low season (July/Nov) from Australia, or NZ$2800 year-round from New Zealand.

      Flying from South Africaroyalairmaroc.com) flight to Casablanca. Expect to pay upwards of R14,000/9000 in high/low season (July/Nov) from Johannesburg to Casablanca.

      By rail from the UK and Ireland

      London to Morocco by train and ferry renfe.com); be aware that seat reservation is compulsory, so it’s advisable to book all your connections in advance, or you may not be able to get on your preferred train.

      By bus from the UK and Ireland

      There are bus services eurolines.com) from London’s Victoria Coach Station to Algeciras for the boat to Tanger-Med, but they aren’t an attractive option. It’s a gruelling 36hr journey, including a change of bus in Paris and another in Spain, and costs around £100 one way. Connections from elsewhere in Britain and Ireland can involve long stopovers in London.

      By car from the UK and Ireland

      Driving to Morocco, allow a minimum of four days from London or southern England, and five days from Scotland or Ireland. The most direct route irishferries.com). From Britain, you can cut out the French section of the route by taking a direct ferry to northern Spain with Brittany Ferries. Otherwise, you can cut out Spain by taking a ferry to Morocco from Sète in France.

      Entering Morocco by ferry

      Leaving Europe for Morocco proper (not Ceuta or Melilla), you have to go through passport control before boarding the ferry. On some ferries to Tanger-Med, you have to obtain a disembarkation form from the purser’s office, fill it in, and submit it with your passport for stamping to a Moroccan immigration official on the boat. Announcements to this effect are not always made in English, but if you don’t have a stamp, you’ll have to wait until everyone else has cleared frontier and customs controls before being attended to. When disembarking, show your newly acquired stamp to a Moroccan policeman at the exit.

      Most ferries to Tangier dock at the new port of Tanger-Med, 40km east of Tangier itself, to which it is connected by local bus, taxis (including shared ones) and a couple of daily trains. Only the catamaran from Tarifa drops you at Tangier’s old port, from which you can walk straight into town.

      Returning from Morocco to Spain, you need to collect an embarkation form and departure card at the ferry port and have these stamped by the port police prior to boarding your ferry.

      Vehicle red tape

      Taking a vehicle to Morocco you must take out insurance; the best way to do this is to get Green Card Insurance covering Morocco before you leave (it speeds things up on arrival if the reference to Morocco is prominent and in French). Failing that, you can obtain insurance from Assurance Frontière at the border or port of entry. You will also need your vehicle registration document – which must be in your name or accompanied by a letter from the registered owner. Trailer caravans, as well as the vehicle itself, need temporary importation documents (D16 ter)douane.gov.ma/d16ter/formAT.jsf. Information on driving in Morocco can be found under Getting Around, as can information on legal requirements for driving.

      Agents and operators

      Best of Morocco morocco-travel.com. Hotels, riads, and upmarket designer trekking, culinary tours, birdwatching and other specialist options.

      Compass Odyssey compassodyssey.net. Family-owned tour operator/agency offering affordable customized itineraries within Morocco, plus one or two annual group tours led by Rough Guide contributor Darren Humphrys.

      Journey Beyond Travel journeybeyondtravel.com. Specialists in sustainable travel in Morocco, with sightseeing, trekking and other tours tailored to individual needs and supporting local projects.

      Morocco Explored moroccoexplored.com. Specialists in tailor-made tours, including hiking, camel treks and 4WD off-roading.

      Naturally Morocco Ltd naturallymorocco.co.uk. Ecologically oriented tours of Morocco, with vegetarian or vegan food if desired and a variety of tours including adventure sports and even Moroccan cookery lessons.

      North South Travel northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

      STA Travel statravel.co.za. Independent travel specialists, offering good discounts for students and under-26s.

      Surf Maroc surfmaroc.com. Surfing holidays based at Taghazout, including lessons for beginners and more advanced surfers.

      Trailfinders trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers in the British Isles.

      Travel Cuts travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

      USIT usit.ie. Ireland’s main youth and student travel specialists.

      < Back to Basics

      Getting around

      Moroccan public transport is, on the whole, pretty good, with a rail network linking the main towns of the north, the coast and Marrakesh, and plenty of buses and collective taxis. Renting a car can open up routes that are time-consuming or difficult on local transport.

      By plane

      royalairmaroc.com) operates domestic flights from its Casablanca hub to major cities nationwide. You will usually have to change planes at Casablanca in order to travel between any other two points, unless both are stops on a single Casa-bound flight (Dakhla to Laayoune, for example). In general, flying is not really worthwhile except for long-distance routes such as to Laayoune or Dakhla in the Western Sahara, when they can save you a lot of time. A one-way ticket from Casablanca to Laayoune, for example, would set you back 787dh (£64/$84) and take an hour and three quarters (plus journey time to the airport, check-in time and potential delays), compared to nineteen hours by bus. Casa to Dakhla – 987dh (£80/$105) one way on RAM – would take you two hours and twenty minutes by air compared to 28 hours by bus.

      onda.ma. You should confirm flights 72 hours before departure. Student and under-26 youth discounts of 25 percent are available on RAM domestic flights, but only if the ticket is bought in advance from one of its offices.

      By train

      Trains cover a limited network of routes, but for travel between the major cities they are easily the best option, comfortable and fairly fast, but sometimes subject to delays.

      There are two main lines: from Tangier in the north down to Marrakesh, and from Oujda in the northeast, also to Marrakesh, joining with the Tangier line at Sidi Kacem. Branch lines serve Nador, El Jadida, Safi, Oued Zem and Casablanca airport. A high-speed line (LGV) from Tangier to Casablanca is under construction, which should reduce the journey time between the two cities to just over two hours, with eventual extension to Marrakesh. The line has now been completed and was supposed to have opened in June 2018, but has been delayed, and it is not clear when services will actually start running.

      Ferry routes

      Fares quoted here are the cheapest adult passenger fares (steerage if available, shared cabin if not), the lowest car fares (usually for a vehicle up to 2.5m long), and lowest motorcycle fares (usually up to 250cc), with seasonal variations shown. Children (up to 12 years) normally pay half fare. Most lines offer discounts (usually twenty percent) to holders of youth and student cards, some to senior citizens too. Trasmediterranea and Baleària do not normally charge for bicycles, but Armas and FRS may do, though this is inconsistently applied and you can usually avoid the charge if you take your bike apart, pack it up and carry it on as baggage. Certain firms may refuse to take women over six months pregnant.

      All departures are subject to weather conditionsviamare.com) are agents for Trasmediterranea, Baleària, Grimaldi and GNV.

      Most passenger tickets can be bought at boat stations on departure, but for vehicles, especially at times of high demand, and for departures out of Sète, it is best to book in advance directferries.co.uk/morocco.htm should be up to date, but it’s always worth checking by phone before departure.

      Algeciras

      Tickets can be bought in Algeciras from any travel agent (there are dozens along the seafront and on the approach roads to the town) or at the boat station. Boats regularly depart thirty minutes to an hour late, and the next to leave may not necessarily be the first to arrive, since fast ferries frequently overtake slow boats on the crossing. Ferries from Livorno, Genoa and Sète to Tanger-Med stop at Barcelona en route.

      Algeciras–Ceuta Trasmediterranea, Baleària and FRS. 12–22 daily (1hr–1hr 30min). Passenger €34, car €114, motorbike €34, bicycle free.

      Algeciras–Tanger-Med Trasmediterranea, Baleària, FRS and Inter Shipping. 16–22 daily (1hr 30min–2hr). Passenger €23, car €97, motorbike €37, bicycle free.

      Tarifa

      Free shuttle buses are available from Algeciras if you buy your ticket there.

      Tarifa–Tangier FRS and Inter Shipping. 12 daily (1hr). Passenger €36, car €109, motorbike €33, bicycle €15.

      Gibraltar

      Gibraltar–Tanger-Med FRS. Weekly (1hr 30min). Passenger €45, car €115, motorbike €45, bicycle free.

      Motril

      Shuttle buses available from Málaga; book in advance with Armas.

      Motril–Melilla FRS. 6 weekly (5hr). Passenger €42, car €110, motorbike €40, bicycle €6.

      Motril–Nador Armas. 6 weekly (5hr). Passenger €40, car €130, motorbike €30, bicycle €6.

      Motril–Al Hoceima Armas. Weekly (5hr). Passenger €55, car €155, motorbike €45, bicycle €6.

      Málaga

      Málaga–Melilla Trasmediterranea, Baleària. 5–9 weekly (6hr 30min–9hr). Passenger €38, car €98, motorbike €36, bicycle free.

      Almería

      Almería–Melilla Trasmediterranea, Armas, Baleària. 5–7 weekly (6hr–8hr 30min). Passenger €38, car €98, motorbike €36, bicycle free.

      Almería–Nador Trasmediterranea. 1–2 daily (6–8hr). Passenger €45, car €150, motorbike €36, bicycle free.

      Barcelona

      Barcelona–Tanger-Med Grimaldi, GNV. 4 weekly (32hr). Passenger €45–81, car €126–150, motorbike €65, bicycle free.

      Barcelona–Nador GNV. 1 weekly (32hr). Passenger €81, car €150, motorbike €65, bicycle free.

      Sète

      Booking well in advance is essential for Sète ferries. Prices on this route sometimes go up steeply in summer.

      Sète–Tanger-Med GNV. 3 weekly (40–45hr). Passenger €80–99, car €240, motorbike €50, bicycle free.

      Sète–Nador GNV. 1 weekly (29hr). Passenger €66–92, car €237, motorbike €39, bicycle free.

      Genoa

      Genoa–Tanger-Med GNV. 2 weekly (48hr 30min). Passenger €155–175, car €240, motorbike €74, bicycle free.

      Savona

      Savona–Tanger-Med Grimaldi. Weekly (60hr). Passenger €56–95, car €199, motorbike €65, bicycle free.

      Ferry operators

      Armas 952 350 061; Estación Marítima, Muelle Ribera, Melilla; Port de Nador, Beni Ansar, Nador. Motril to Nador and Al Hoceima, Almería to Nador and Melilla.

      Baleària 0539 934463. Algeciras to Tanger-Med and Ceuta, Almería and Málaga to Melilla.

      FRS (Ferrys Rápidos del Sur) 0539 942612. Tarifa to Tangier, Gibraltar and Algeciras to Tanger-Med; Algeciras to Ceuta, Motril to Melilla.

      Grimaldi Lines 081 496 444; Marittima Spedizioni, Piazza de Andrè 0531 111111. Savona via Barcelona to Tanger-Med.

      GNV (Grandi Navi Veloci) 0538 800020; c/o Navifret 0522 279659. Genoa and Sète via Barcelona to Tanger-Med; Sète to Nador.

      Inter Shipping intershipping.es; Estación 956 655 040. Tarifa to Tangier; Algeciras to Tanger-Med.

      Trasmediterranea 0539 343980. Algeciras to Ceuta and Tanger-Med; Málaga to Melilla; Almería to Melilla and Nador.

      Aside from that, schedules change very little from year to year, but it’s wise to check times in advance at stations. Timetables are displayed at major train stations, and any station ticket office will print you off a mini-timetable of services between any two stations. You can also check schedules (horaires) and fares (tarifsoncf.ma. Except for sleeper services, tickets do not need to be booked in advance; you can just turn up at the station and buy one. There are two classes of tickets – first and second. Costs for a second-class ticket are slightly more than what you’d pay for buses; on certain express services (express refers to the level of comfort rather than the speed), they are around thirty percent higher. In addition, there are couchettes (690dh) available on the Tangier–Marrakesh and Casablanca–Oujda night trains – worth the money for both the comfort and the security, as couchette passengers are in their own locked carriage with a guard. Most stations are located reasonably close to the modern city centres. Note that they do not have left-luggage facilities.

      By bus

      Bus travel is generally only marginally cheaper than taking a shared grand taxi, and around thirty percent slower, but also safer and more comfortable, though on some older buses leg room is limited, and for anyone approaching six feet or more in height, long journeys can be rather an endurance test. Many long-distance buses run at night when they are both quicker and cooler. Most are fitted with reading lights but they are invariably turned off, so you will not be able to read on buses after dark. Also note that the rate of accidents involving night buses is quite high, especially on busy routes.

      Fares

      For comparison, between Casablanca and Marrakesh, a train will take three and a quarter hours and cost 95dh in second class, 148dh in first. A CTM bus will cost 95dh and take three and a half hours, while an ordinary bus will cost 60dh and take around four hours. A shared grand taxi (if you can find one) will cost 150dh per place and take just under two hours. The forty-minute plane journey costs 915dh.

      Travelling during the day, especially in summer, it pays to sit on the side away from the sun. Travelling from north to south, this means sitting on the right in the morning, on the left in the afternoon, vice versa if going the other way. Travelling from east to west, sit on the right, or on the left if going from west to east. In fact, Moroccan passengers often pull down the blinds and shut the windows, which can block out the scenery and make the journey rather claustrophobic. Note too, especially on rural services, that some passengers may be unused to road travel, resulting in travel sickness and vomiting.

      CTM and private lines

      Buses run by CTM ctm.ma) are faster and more reliable than private services, with numbered seats and fixed departure schedules, which can be checked online. CTM services usually have reading lights, though you may have to ask the driver to turn those on. Some of the larger private company buses, such as SATAS (which operates widely in the south) and Trans Ghazala (which runs in the north) are of a similar standard, but many other private companies are tiny outfits, with a single bus which leaves only when the driver considers it sufficiently full. On the other hand, such private buses are much more likely to stop for you if you flag them down on the open road, whereas CTM services will only pick up and set down at official stops.

      Bus terminals

      Most towns have a main bus station (gare routière), often on the edge of town. CTM buses usually leave from the company’s office, which may be quite a way from the main bus station, though in several places CTM and the private companies share a single terminal, and in some cases the CTM bus will call at the main bus station when departing a city, though not when arriving.

      Bus stations usually have a number of ticket windows, one for each of the companies operating out of it. There is occasionally a departures board, but it may be out of date and in Arabic only, so you should always check departure times at the appropriate window. Bus conductors or ticket sellers may be calling out destinations in the bus station in any case, or may greet you as you come in by asking where you want to go. On the more popular trips (and especially with CTM services, which often run just once a day in the south), it’s worth trying to buy tickets in advance, though this may not always be possible on smaller private-line services.

      You may occasionally have problems getting tickets at small towns along major routes, where buses can arrive and leave already full. It’s sometimes possible to get round this by taking a local bus or a grand taxi for the next section of the trip (until the bus you want empties a little), or by waiting for a bus that actually starts from the town you’re in. Overall, the best policy is to arrive at a bus station early in the day (ideally 5.30–6am).

      On private-line buses, you generally pay for your baggage to be loaded into the hold (or onto the roof). The standard fee is 5dh, but this may be forgone on short hops. Note that you only pay to have your baggage loaded, not to have it unloaded on arrival, whatever anybody may say. On CTM, SATAS and Supratours buses your luggage is weighed and you are issued with a receipt for the baggage charge (usually 5–10dh, depending on weight and distance – allow time for this procedure). On arrival, porters with wheeled box-carts (chariots) may offer their services, but always agree a price before engaging one.

      Supratours buses

      An additional service, on certain major routes, is the Supratours express buses run as feeder services by the train company, ONCFsupratours.ma. Supratours services compare, in both time and cost, with CTM buses. They do not use the main bus stations, but depart from outside their own town-centre offices (detailed in the relevant chapters). Through tickets to and from connecting rail stations are available (Essaouira through to Fez, for example), and travellers with rail tickets for connecting services have priority. It’s best to book tickets in advance if possible.

      By shared taxi

      Shared grands taxis are one of the best features of Moroccan transport. They operate on a wide variety of routes, are much quicker than buses (usually quicker than trains, too), and fares vary from slightly more than the bus to around twice as much.

      The taxis are usually big Peugeot or Mercedes cars carrying six passengers (Peugeots are less common but have a slightly less cramped seating arrangement). Most business is along specific routes, and the most popular routes have more or less continuous departures throughout the day. You just show up at the terminal (locations are detailed in the Guide) and ask for a place to a specific destination. The best time to arrive is early morning (6–8am), when a lot of people are travelling and taxis fill up quickly; lunchtime, on the other hand, is a bad time to turn up, as fewer people will be travelling, and the taxi will take longer to get full. As soon as six (or, if you’re willing to pay extra, four or five) people are assembled, the taxi sets off. Make sure, when asking about grands taxis, that it is clear you only want a place (une place in French, plassa in Arabic, or hold up one finger) in a shared taxi (taxi collectif), as drivers often presume that a tourist will want to charter the whole taxi (see below), which means paying for all six places. Women travelling alone may wish to pay for two places and get the front seat to themselves rather than be squashed up against male passengers.

      Picking up a shared taxi on the road is more problematic, as they will only stop if they have a place free (if a passenger has already alighted). To hail a taxi on the open road, hold up one, two or more fingers to indicate how many places you need.

      Fares for set routes are fixed, and drivers do not usually try to overcharge tourists for a place (though occasionally they try to charge for baggage, which usually travels free of charge). If you think that you are being overcharged, ask the other passengers, or check the price with your hotel before leaving. Occasionally, five passengers may agree to split the cost of the last place to hasten departure, or one passenger may agree to pay for two places. You pay the full fare for the journey even if travelling only part of the way.

      If you want to take a non-standard route, or an excursion, or just to have the taxi to yourself, it is possible to charter a whole grand taxi (une course in French, corsa in Arabic). In theory this should be exactly six times the price of a place in a shared taxi if the route has a set fare, but you’ll often have to bargain hard to get that. Hotels can sometimes be useful in helping to charter grands taxis.

      Some people consider shared taxis dangerous. It is certainly true that they are prone to practices such as speeding, and overtaking on blind curves or the brows of hills, and that they have more than their fair share of accidents. Drivers may work all day and into the night, and it seems a large number of accidents involve them falling asleep at the wheel while driving at night, so you may wish to avoid using them for night-time journeys, especially on busy roads. Note also that with the seating arrangements, it is not usually possible to wear a seat belt, though if you pay for two places, you can get the front seat to yourself and put the belt on.

      Trucks and hitching

      In the countryside, where buses may be sporadic or even non-existent, it is standard practice for vans and lorries (camions), pick-up trucks (camionettes) and transit-vans (transits) to carry passengers for a charge. You may be asked to pay a little more than the locals, and you may be expected to bargain over the price – but it’s straightforward enough.

      Police checkpoints

      There are police checkpoints on roads throughout the country. European cars, or rental cars, are usually waved through. Buses (other than CTM services) are more likely to be stopped, but usually only briefly. Sometimes the police may ask to check your passport or (if driving) licence, often only because they want to relieve their boredom with a chat. Nonetheless, you should always have your passport with you if travelling between towns – even on day-trips.

      Checkpoints in the Western Sahara are more thorough, and for foreigners they can involve a considerable amount of form-filling and delay.

      In the Rif Mountains, especially around Ketama, police may stop vehicles to search for cannabis. Buses are usually delayed more than grands taxis at such checkpoints, and passengers may be searched individually. There are also sometimes lengthy checks for duty-free contraband on buses from Nador to Fez.

      In parts of the Atlas, local people run more or less scheduled truck or transit services, generally to coincide with the pattern of local souks. If you plan on traversing any of the more ambitious Atlas pistes, you’ll probably be dependent on these vehicles, unless you walk.

      Hitching

      Hitchhiking is not big in Morocco, but you may resort to it on routes where transport is scarce. Fellow tourists may pick you up, and Moroccans may carry you for free, but usually you pay, around the same as a bus or grand taxi fare. This is especially the case in country areas, where local rides can operate in much the same way as truck taxis. As a rule, however, hitching is not really safe, and it is definitely not advisable for women travelling alone. We have heard of (Moroccan) hitchhikers being robbed on the N12 Tata–Bou Izakarn road, and it probably happens elsewhere too.

      By car

      There are few real problems driving in Morocco, but accident rates are high, largely because motorists routinely ignore traffic regulations and drive aggressively and dangerously (most people pay baksheesh for their licence). Do not expect other drivers to indicate or observe lane discipline, beware when coming up to blind curves or hills where vehicles coming in the other direction may be trying to overtake without full view of the road ahead, treat all pedestrians with the suspicion that they will cross in front of you, and all cyclists with the idea that they may suddenly swerve into the middle of the road. All this makes driving a particularly hair-raising experience in towns, and even experienced drivers may find city driving quite stressful. The difficulty of finding places in cities due to lack of street signs adds to the problem. Be particularly wary about driving after dark, as it is legal to drive up to 20km/h without lights, which allows all cyclists and mopeds to wander at will; donkeys, goats and sheep do not carry lights, either.

      However, with those caveats in mind, daytime and certainly long-distance driving can be as good as anywhere. Good road surfaces, long straight roads, and little traffic between inhabited areas allow for high average speeds. The usual speed limit outside towns is 40km/h (25mph) in built-up areas, 100km/h (62mph) on ordinary roads, and 120km/h (75mph) on motorways. There are on-the-spot fines for speeding, and oncoming motorists flashing their headlights at you may well be warning you to slow down for a police check ahead (radar speed traps are common).

      The French rule of giving priority to traffic from the right is observed at roundabouts and junctions – meaning that cars coming onto a roundabout have priority over those already on it.

      By law, drivers and passengers are required to wear seat belts. Almost no one does, but if you follow suit and are stopped by the police, you may have a small (possibly unofficial) fine extracted. Given Morocco’s high road accident rate, it is foolhardy not to wear a seat belt anyway.

      Driving requirements

      The minimum age for driving in Morocco is 21 years. EU, North American and Australasian driving licences are recognized and valid in Morocco, though an International Driving Licence, with its French translations (available

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