How to Create the Perfect Cut, Shape, Color, and Perm for Any Hair Type Secrets and Techniques from a Master Hair Stylist

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essential: the mindset every stylist needs when cutting and styling hair. You will learn the essence of creativity in reading, cutting, forming, coloring, and texturing hair. You will also learn Any Hair Type:

how to talk with your clients and learn what they want, how they react to you, and what you can expect when cutting their hair.

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Atlantic Publishing Group, Inc.

ISBN 978-1601384027

Your complete resource for small business, management, finance, online, and real estate books.

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Knowledge is the key to success.

1405 SW 6th Ave • Ocala, FL 34471-0640

Phone 800-814-1132 • Fax 352-622-1875

9 781601 384027

By CoSmo EASTE

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www.atlantic-pub.com

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How to Create the

Perfect Cut, Shape,

Color, and Perm for Any

Hair Type:

Secrets and Techniques from a Master Stylist By Cosmo Easterly

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How to Create the Perfect Cut, Shape, Color, and Perm for Any Hair Type: Secrets and Techniques from a Master Stylist by Cosmo Easterly

Copyright © 2009 Cosmo Easterly. Published by Atlantic Publishing Group, Inc.

1405 SW 6th Avenue • Ocala, Florida 34471 • 800-814-1132 • 352-622-1875–Fax Web site: www.atlantic-pub.com • E-mail: sales@atlantic-pub.com SAN Number: 268-1250 • Member American Library Association No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be sent to Atlantic Publishing Group, Inc., 1405 SW 6th Avenue, Ocala, Florida 34471.

ISBN-13: 978-1-60138-402-7

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Easterly, Cosmo, 1957-How to create the perfect cut, shape, color, and perm for any hair type : secrets and techniques from a master hair stylist / by Cosmo Easterly.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN-13: 978-1-60138-402-7 (alk. paper)

ISBN-10: 1-60138-402-5 (alk. paper)

1. Hairdressing. I. Title.

TT957.E227 2009

646.7’24--dc22

2008040252

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

COVER & INTERIOR DESIGN: Meg Buchner • megadesn@mchsi.com LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: The publisher and the author make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales or promotional materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for every situation. This work is sold with the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If professional assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. Neither the publisher nor the author shall be liable for damages arising herefrom. The fact that an organization or Web site is referred to in this work as a citation and/or a potential source of further information does not mean that the author or the publisher endorses the information the organization or Web site may provide or recommendations it may make. Further, readers should be aware that Internet Web sites listed in this work may have changed or disappeared between when this work was written and when it is read.

18 U.S.C. 2257 STATEMENT

In compliance with the Federal Labeling and Record-Keeping Law (also known as 18 U.S.C. 2257), all models shown in this book were 18 years of age or older during the time of photography. All models proof of age are held in Ocala, Florida by Atlantic Publishing Company. All content and images are in full compliance with the requirements of 18 U.S.C. 2257

and associated regulations.

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TABLE OF contents

PrEFACE

What You Will Find ...............................................................9

My Process .........................................................................10

Permanent Settings.............................................................10

Coloring ..............................................................................11

In Closing ...........................................................................11

CHAPTEr 1: All About hair

Hair ....................................................................................14

Creativity ............................................................................15

Form and Creativity ............................................................16

Working with the Client ......................................................16

Reading Hair and Forming Hair ..........................................17

Understanding Details ........................................................18

Coloring One’s Hair .............................................................18

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Texture ...............................................................................19

Shape and Balance .............................................................19

Conclusion .........................................................................20

CHAPTEr 2: Inducing Creative growth

Introduction .......................................................................24

Why the Beauty Industry? ..................................................25

Why Hair? ..........................................................................25

Make Something More Out of Hair Design .................................26

Things to Consider ..............................................................27

Controlling Your Emotions ..................................................28

Feel Free and Fake It ..........................................................28

You’re In Control ................................................................29

The Clients .........................................................................29

Stance ...........................................................................29

Clothing Style ................................................................30

Mannerisms and Conversational Tone ............................30

The Experts ........................................................................30

CHAPTEr 3: Setting goals

Introduction .......................................................................34

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Goals ..................................................................................34

Creating the Goal Outline ...................................................35

An exercise ....................................................................35

More About Goals ...............................................................36

Your Talent .........................................................................38

Setting Business Goals .......................................................38

The Conclusion about Goals ...............................................39

CHAPTEr 4: Your clients

Introduction .......................................................................42

Tip: Don’t Work For Tips .....................................................43

Selling Yourself ...................................................................44

Keeping Clients ...................................................................46

Remaining Positive .........................................................47

What the Client Wants ...................................................47

Open Brainstorming .......................................................48

Questions to Ask Your Client ..............................................48

A Reference ...................................................................48

A Few Tips: Dealing With Customers ...................................50

Bad Customers ..............................................................50

Good Customers ............................................................51

Personal Tips: Rumors and Rubs ........................................52

Conclusion .........................................................................53

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CHAPTEr 5: Balance and symmetry

Introduction .......................................................................56

Balance Points ....................................................................57

Psychology Tidbit about Balance .........................................59

Another Part of Balance ......................................................59

CHAPTEr 6: Permanent waves

Introduction .......................................................................64

An Introduction to Lotions ..................................................65

Introduction to Wrapping Tension .......................................65

Tension and Perming .....................................................67

Tips to Tension ..............................................................67

Moisture with Wrapping .................................................69

How to Wrap With Tension .............................................69

Introduction to Hair Type Needs ..........................................69

Fine Hair ........................................................................69

Medium Hair ..................................................................70

Coarse Hair ....................................................................70

Final Thoughts on Hair Density ......................................70

Introduction to Perming and Coloring .................................71

Same Day Coloring .........................................................71

Retouching.....................................................................71

The Shampoo Bowl .............................................................72

Drying the Hair .............................................................73

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Word of Warning ...........................................................73

Shampooing Final Thoughts ...........................................74

How does this relate to your daily life as a hairstylist? ...74

How to Create a Permanent Wave .......................................75

Step 1: Prepare the Hair .................................................75

Step 2: Pre-Wrapping Solution .......................................76

Step 3: Analyze Hair Texture and Strength .....................76

Step 4: Test Curl ............................................................76

Step 5: Perming..............................................................77

Step 6: Check the Shape ................................................77

Step 7: Rinse ..................................................................77

Step 8: Towel Drying the Rods ........................................77

Step 9 Neutralize ............................................................78

Step 10 Removing the Rods and Rinse ...........................78

A Few Techniques ...............................................................79

Permanent Waves Summary ...............................................80

CHAPTEr 7: Conclusion

Review Points......................................................................86

Creativity and Form .......................................................86

Perception ......................................................................86

Goals .............................................................................87

Clients ...........................................................................88

Hair Design Tips ............................................................89

Shampooing ...................................................................89

Permanent waves ...........................................................89

Final Thoughts ...................................................................89

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DEDICATIOnS

God, for all your gifts, I give thanks, love and light.

Thank you to my dear friends and family for always being there.

Thank you to the printing MEGA David Matchett for helping me get the book off the ground floor, as well as the Atlantic Publishing Company in Ocala, Florida, for their help and support.

To my parents, Robert and Loretta Easterly for their belief in their son. To my Aunt, Verna Lewis for helping me graduate.

To my Children for allowing me the time away to put this book together.

To Chad Easterly, Lauren Easterly, Clint Geer, and Lindsey Geer may they all be inspired by hard work and efforts shown to them by my actions.

To the staff at Planet Cosmo Salon (www.planetcosmo.com).

Live Well, God Bless you, and thanks for visiting the planet.

As you grow, you see things from a new level. My desire is to assist the industry and grow to new heights professionally. It is important to grow for yourself and look deep into your intentions as well as what is around you. As you plant your seeds in the garden of life, you want to make sure that you truly understand your plants. God needs all the plants, but you only need what works for you in your garden. If there are weeds, then you must take the time to look for yourself to find out why they are growing there instead of what you planted. Set your goals for the day and your path will be