Lonely Planet Cape Town & the Garden Route

Cape Town & the Garden Route

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Cape Town & the Garden Route

Cape Town & the Garden Route’s Top 15

Need to Know

What’s New

If You Like…

Month by Month

Itineraries

Getting Around

Eat Like a Local

Wine & Wineries

Activities

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

CAPE TOWN

Neighbourhoods at a Glance

Table Mountain National Park

Top Sights

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

AROUND CAPE TOWN

Road Trip > Driving Route 62

Winelands

Stellenbosch

Franschhoek

Paarl

Tulbagh

Robertson

The Overberg

The Elgin Valley

Hermanus

Gansbaai

Stanford

West Coast

Darling

Langebaan

Paternoster

GARDEN ROUTE

Surfing Along the Garden Route

Mossel Bay

George

Wilderness

Buffalo Bay

Knysna

Plettenberg Bay

Nature’s Valley

Understand

Understand Cape Town

Cape Town Today

History

People & Culture

Architecture

The Arts

The Natural Environment

Survival Guide

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Children

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

LGBT Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Language

Glossary

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Cape Town & the Garden Route

There’s nowhere quite like Cape Town and the Garden Route – a coming-together of the diverse cultures, cuisines and spectacular landscapes of Southern Africa.

Natural Wonders

Table Mountain National Park defines the city. The flat-topped mountain is the headline act, but there are many other equally gorgeous natural landscapes within the park’s extensive boundaries. Cultivated areas, such as the historic Company’s Garden, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden and Green Point Urban Park, also make exploring the city a pleasure. Follow the lead of locals by taking full advantage of the abundant outdoor space: learn to surf; go hiking or mountain biking; tandem-paraglide off Lion’s Head; abseil off the top of Table Mountain – just a few of the many activities on offer.

Art & Design

Human creativity is also self-evident here. From the brightly painted facades of the Bo-Kaap, to the Afro-chic decor of its restaurants and bars and the striking street art and design boutiques of the East City and Woodstock, this is one great-looking metropolis. The informal settlements of the Cape Flats are a sobering counterpoint, but these townships also have enterprising projects that put food from organic market gardens on tables, or stock gift shops with attractive souvenirs.

People & Culture

Christian, Muslim, Jewish, Hindu and traditional African beliefs coexist peacefully in this proudly multicultural city. Given South Africa’s troubled history, such harmony has been hard-won and remains fragile: nearly everyone has a fascinating, sometimes heartbreaking story to tell. It’s a city of determined pioneers – from the Afrikaner descendants of the original Dutch colonists and the majority coloured community to the descendants of European Jewish immigrants and more recent Xhosa (isiXhosa) migrants from the Eastern Cape. They all bring unique flavours to Cape Town’s rich melting pot.

Beyond the City

Wrenching yourself away from the magnetic mountain and all the delights of the Cape Peninsula is a challenge, but within an hour you can exchange urban landscapes for the charming towns, villages and bucolic estates of Winelands destinations, such as Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Hermanus is a prime whale-watching location, and also a base from which to organise shark-cave diving. Further afield, the delights of the Garden Route unfold, with more inspiring scenery to be viewed on thrilling drives down the coast and over mountain passes.

Camps Bay Beach | HELEN CATHCART/GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Cape Town & the Garden Route

By Simon Richmond, Writer

Mother Nature surpassed herself when crafting the Mother City. Whether jogging along Sea Point promenade, climbing up Lion’s Head in the dawn light, clambering over giant boulders at Sandy Bay or driving the amazing coastal roads down to Cape Point, I never fail to feel my spirits soar as I take in the breathtakingly beautiful vistas. You don’t need to break a sweat: sipping wine on a historic farm in Constantia or enjoying a picnic at an outdoor concert in Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden are equally memorable ways to commune with Cape Town’s great outdoors.

For more, see our writers

Cape Town & the Garden Route’s Top 15

Table Mountain

Whether you ride the revolving cableway or put in the leg work and climb, attaining the summit of Table Mountain is a Capetonian rite of passage. Weather permitting, your rewards are a panoramic view across the peninsula and a chance to experience some of the park’s incredible biodiversity. Schedule time for a hike: the park’s 245 sq km include routes to suit all levels of fitness and ambition, from gentle ambles to spot fynbos (proteas, heaths and ericas) to the two-day, 33.8km Cape of Good Hope Trail.

BENJAMIN B /GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

V&A Waterfront

Cape Town’s top sight in terms of visitor numbers, the V&A Waterfront is big, busy and in a spectacular location, with Table Mountain as a backdrop. There’s a pirate’s booty of consumer opportunities, from chic boutiques to major department stores, plus plenty of cultural and educational experiences, including walking tours of its well-preserved heritage buildings and public sculptures, the excellent Two Oceans Aquarium, and the spectacular new Zeitz MOCAA museum of contemporary art. Be sure to take a harbour cruise, too – preferably at sunset.

BRIAN EDEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Robben Island

A Unesco World Heritage Site, the former prison on Robben Island is a key location in South Africa’s long walk to freedom. Nelson Mandela and other Freedom struggle heroes were incarcerated here, following in the tragic footsteps of earlier fighters against the various colonial governments that ruled over the Cape. The boat journey here and the tour with former inmates provides an insight into the country’s troubled history – and a glimpse of how far it has progressed on the path to reconciliation and forgiveness.

DENNIS K. JOHNSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Bo-Kaap

Painted in vivid colours straight out of a packet of liquorice allsorts, the jumble of crumbling and restored heritage houses and mosques along the cobblestoned streets of the Bo-Kaap are both visually captivating and a storybook of inner-city gentrification. A stop at the Bo-Kaap Museum is recommended to gain an understanding of the history of this former slave quarter. Also, try Cape Malay dishes at one of the area’s several restaurants, or stay in one of the homes turned into guesthouses and hotels.

ESPIEGLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Cape of Good Hope

Make the spectacular journey out to this historic headland, and onward to Cape Point, the dramatic tip of the peninsula protected within Table Mountain National Park: rugged cliffs shoot down into the frothing waters of the Atlantic Ocean; giant waves crash over the enormous boulders at Africa’s most southwesterly point; and the Flying Dutchman Funicular runs up to the old lighthouse for fantastic views. Afterwards you can relax on lovely beaches such as the one at Buffels Bay, which is lapped by the slightly warmer waters of False Bay.

ROLAND W. KUNZ/500PX/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

District Six Museum

More than 40 years on from when most of the homes in the inner-city suburb of District Six were demolished, and their multiethnic owners and tenants relocated to the blighted communities in the Cape Flats, the area remains largely barren. A visit to this illuminating, moving museum provides an understanding of District Six’s tragic history and the impact it has had on the lives of all Capetonians. You can also arrange a walking tour of the area, led by a former resident.

EQROY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Franschhoek

Franschhoek is the smallest – but for many the prettiest – Cape Winelands town. Nestled in a spectacular valley, Franschhoek is also the country’s undisputed gastronomic capital. You may have a tough time deciding where to eat – the main road is lined with top-notch restaurants, some of them among the best in the country. The surrounding wineries likewise offer excellent food and no shortage of superb wine. Add a clutch of art galleries and some stylish guesthouses and it really is one of the loveliest towns in the Cape.

Boschendal winery | LATITUDESTOCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Kalk Bay

This delightful False Bay fishing village – named after the kilns that produced lime from seashells, used for painting buildings in the 17th century – offers an abundance of antique, arts and craft shops and great cafes and restaurants, as well as a daily fish market at its harbour. A drink or meal at institutions such as the Brass Bell pub or Live Bait restaurant – nearly as close to the splashing waters of False Bay as you can get without swimming – are fine ways to pass the time.

Harbour House | GARY LATHAM/LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden

There’s been European horticulture on the picturesque eastern slopes of Table Mountain since Jan van Riebeeck’s time in the 17th century, but it was British imperialist Cecil Rhodes, owner of Kirstenbosch Farm and surrounding properties, who really put the gardens on the map when he bequeathed the land to all Capetonians. Today it’s a spectacular showcase for the Cape Floral Kingdom, which was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site for its incredible biodiversity. Take in the view from the treetop walkway known as the Boomslang.

QUALITY MASTER/SHUTTERSTOCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Surfing along the Garden Route

The Garden Route is known for its outdoor pursuits on both land and sea. The coast between Mossel Bay and Plettenberg Bay boasts some of the Western Cape’s best surf, great whether you’re a pro or just starting out. Herold’s Bay and Victoria Bay, near George, are particularly pretty spots to catch a wave, and offer excellent beaches for nonsurfing travel companions. In Victoria Bay you can try a beginner lesson or rent a board and join the experts on a more challenging day trip.

SUBMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Knysna

Although a wildfire in 2017 laid waste to the forests around Knysna and damaged many homes, the Garden Route’s top tourist town has been quick to bounce back. The conflagration cannot detract from Knysna’s serene location on a beautiful lagoon (which is best explored on a sightseeing cruise. Hang around to appreciate the town’s arty, LGBT-friendly atmosphere as well as its great range of activities, including tours into the local township and the Rastafarian community and a chance to go elephant tracking.

Knysna Lagoon | LENISECALLEJA.PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Stellenbosch

At the heart of hundreds of vineyards, Stellenbosch is an elegant town with Cape Dutch, Georgian and Victorian architecture and good museums. A must-see is the Village Museum, which is spread across a group of buildings charting different periods in the town’s three centuries of history. Travellers in search of fine-dining experiences will find they are spoilt for choice by the restaurants in town and on the surrounding wine estates, many of which should be booked ahead.

CHRIS DU PLESSIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Wilderness

A quieter alternative to Knysna and Plettenberg, Wilderness lives up to its name. Here you’ll find dense old-growth forests on steep hills running down to kilometres of white sand and sheltered lagoons. The village is on the doorstep of a lovely section of the Garden Route National Park that includes lakes, wetlands and estuaries. Hike the park’s 5km Kingfisher Trail, which includes a boardwalk across the intertidal zone of the Touws River. There’s superlative birdwatching and a host of outdoor activities including kayaking and kloofing (canyoning).

RICHARD DU TOIT/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Hermanus

Clinging to the clifftops, Hermanus has pretty beaches, fynbos-covered hills and some of the best land-based whale watching in the world. Between June and November scores of whales converge on Walker Bay to calve. The giant ocean-living mammals often come very close to the shore and there are some excellent vantage points from the cliff paths that run from one end of Hermanus to the other. There’s also a whale crier who walks around town blowing on a kelp horn and carrying a blackboard listing where whales have been sighted.

Southern right whale | DARCY BROWN/500PX ©

Top Experiences

West Coast National Park

This park, which is easily accessed from Cape Town, encompasses the clear, blue waters of the Langebaan Lagoon and is home to an enormous number of birds. It covers around 310 sq km and protects wetlands of international significance and important seabird breeding colonies. Wading birds flock here by the thousands in summer. The offshore islands are home to colonies of African penguins. The only time it approaches getting crowded is during its famous wildflower display, usually between August and September.

Cape gannet | PETER CHADWICK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

South African rand (R)

Language

English, Afrikaans, Xhosa

Visas

Australian, UK, US and most Western European citizens can get a 90-day entry permit on arrival.

Money

ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are accepted at most businesses, but some smaller food places, including weekly markets, are cash-only.

Mobile Phones

South Africa uses the GSM digital standard; check compatibility with your phone provider. Local SIM cards are easy to buy.

Time

South Africa Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus two hours)

When to Go

Summer (Dec to Feb)

A Warm, dry weather and lively festivals.

A Peak times are early December to mid-January and around Easter.

A Coastal and national-park accommodation books up months in advance. Prices can rise by 50% or more.

Spring & Autumn (Apr–May & Sep–Nov)

A Often sunny weather.

A Optimum wildlife-watching conditions from autumn onwards.

A Wildflower and whale watching season late August to early September.

Winter (Jun–Aug)

A Rainy season in Cape Town and the Western Cape.

A Accommodation prices are generally low and its a good time to visit arid areas such as the Karoo.

Useful Websites

Cape Town Magazine (www.capetownmagazine.com) Online magazine with its finger on Cape Town’s pulse.

Cape Town Tourism (www.capetown.travel) The city’s official tourism site is stacked with info.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/cape-town) Destination information, hotel bookings, travellers forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than R1000

A Dorm bed: R250

A Gourmet burger: R70

A Local beer: R30

A Hiking in Table Mountain National Park: Free

A MyCiTi bus from City Bowl to Camps Bay: R11.70

Midrange: R1000–5000

A Hotel room: R1000–3000

A Township/cultural tour: R600

A Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concert ticket: R180

A Meal with wine at Waterfront restaurant: R500

Top end: More than R5000

A Hotel room: R3000–6000

A Meal at top-end restaurant: R800–1200

A Full-day gourmet wine tour: R2000

A Thirty-minute helicopter flight: R1650

A Three-hour cruise on luxury yacht: R6800

Opening Hours

The following are general hours. Individual reviews list more specific variations.

Banks 9am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 11am Saturday

Post offices 8.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday, 8am to noon Saturday

Shops 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday, 8.30am to 1pm Saturday. Major shopping centres are open 9am to 9pm daily.

Cafes 7.30am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. Cafes in the City Bowl are open 8am to 3pm on Saturday and closed on Sunday.

Restaurants Noon to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm Monday to Saturday.

Arriving in Cape Town

Cape Town International Airport MyCiTi bus to Cape Town Train Station is R100; the Backpacker Bus shared minivan taxi is R220 to city centre hotels and hostels; a taxi is around R250.

Cape Town Train Station Long-distance trains and buses arrive at this centrally located terminal; a taxi to most central locations will be under R50.

V&A Waterfront Jetty 2 or Duncan Dock Where international cruise ships dock.

What to Wear

Capetonian dress codes are supremely casual – even at quiet formal events you’ll find some people dressed in jeans and T-shirts. It’s important to remember that the vast majority of the city’s population own maybe just one or two changes of clothing so running around blinged up to the nines is likely to make you stand out for all the wrong reasons. That said, there is certainly a Miami-meets-Monaco beachy fashion vibe in the tonier areas of town, such as Camps Bay and Constantia, and if you are heading to the posher restaurants a smart outfit will help you blend in.

For information, see Getting Around

What’s New

Silo District

The Heatherwick Studio–designed Zeitz MOCAA Museum is the star attraction of this revamped Waterfront area, but also worth searching out are The Yard restaurant and shop and the design gallery Guild.

Mojo Market

Sea Point holds a daily market that’s as good a place to shop for fashion and souvenirs as it is for an inexpensive meal or just to enjoy a drink with live music.

Cape Town Fynbos Experience

Learn all about the flavour profiles and medicinal benefits of various species of fynbos (the local flora) at this tasting experience in the Company’s Garden.

A4 Arts Foundation

Discover new and established artistic talent at this arts centre staging free exhibitions, film screenings, live performances and discussions.

Arch for Arch

Admire the interlaced wooden arch next to St George’s Cathedral, dedicated to Nobel Prize winner Archibishop Desmond Tutu.

Township Dining & Drinking

Quality refreshments have come to Khayelitsha and Langa in the form of the gourmet restaurant 4Roomed, braii (barbecue) joint Mzansi, and cafes Siki’s Kofee Kafe and Kaffa Hoist.

18 Gangster Museum

This tiny, but imaginatively designed ‘museum’ in a shipping container teaches about the perils of gang life in the townships. It also runs walking tours.

New Parks

As well as the Two Rivers Urban Park near Observatory, on the cards is the development of Maiden’s Cove into a new municipal park linking Clifton and Camps Bay.)

Obz Revival

Observatory has several new and revamped places to eat, drink and shop including AHEM! Art Collective, the force behind the monthly Art Thursday event.

Church Square

There are new places to eat and drink around this attractive and historic City Bowl square that is set to become a venue for a free light and sound show.

Brewing & Distilling

Craft brewing across the Cape is still going gangbusters with plenty of new microbreweries popping up. They’ve also been joined by spirits distilleries such as Woodstock Gin Company and New Harbour Distillery.

Café Roux

Doing it proud for the live music scene is this establishment with bases at Noordhoek and the City Bowl, both with a packed schedule of concerts by local talents.

For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/south-africa/cape-town

If You Like…

Beaches

Muizenberg Colourful Victorian chalets, warm(ish) water and fun surfing.

Clifton 3rd Beach Where the gay community leads, Capetonians follow.

Buffels Bay Tranquil, with sweeping views across False Bay and a sea pool for safe swimming.

Sandy Bay The nudist beach also has amazing giant rock formations to explore.

Noordhoek Magnificently broad, overlooked by Chapman’s Peak and with a shipwreck in the sand.

Viewpoints

Table Mountain Sweeping vistas across the city and peninsula.

Bloubergstrand Picture-perfect view of Table Mountain north of the city.

Cape of Good Hope Walk to just above the Cape’s original lighthouse.

Chapman’s Peak Drive Take in the elegant sweep of horseshoe-shaped Hout Bay.

Signal Hill Hear the cannon fire and look out over the Waterfront.

Free Stuff

V&A Waterfront Buskers, outdoor events, seals, historic buildings, public artworks and the comings and goings of the harbour.

Table Mountain National Park No charge for hiking the myriad trails on the main mountain, up Lion’s Head or along Signal Hill.

St George’s Cathedral One of the few places of worship that was open to people of all races during apartheid.

A4 Arts Foundation Free gallery featuring contemporary South African art.

Long Street Stroll from the junction with Buitensingel St north to Strand St.

Street Art District Six and Woodstock are dotted with impressive large-scale works.

Nelson Mandela Gateway Learn about the Freedom struggle and life in the prison before heading to Robben Island.

Parks & Gardens

Company’s Garden Relax or stroll through these historic gardens, marvelling at ancient trees and pretty flower beds.

Green Point Urban Park Enjoy the lovely eco-legacy of World Cup 2010 at this new park showcasing biodiversity.

Oranjezicht City Farm A beautifully laid-out urban farm on the slopes of Table Mountain.

Two Rivers Urban Park A new park around the confluence of the Liesbeek and Black Rivers.

Arderne Gardens The oldest collection of trees in the Southern Hemisphere is a lovely place to escape the crowds.

Babylonstoren Explore the blissful garden of edible and medicinal plants at this elegantly reimagined wine and fruit estate.

Babylonstoren | GROBLER DU PREEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Art Collections

Zeitz MOCAA Museum Contemporary art from across Africa and beyond displayed in a converted grain silo complex.

South African National Gallery Prime examples of the nation’s art are exhibited in this elegant building.

Stevenson Major commercial gallery for contemporary artists, with interesting thematic exhibitions.

Irma Stern Museum Former home of the pioneering expressionist artists, with a lovely garden.

Casa Labia Cultural Centre Beautifully restored interiors at this Muizenberg villa, converted to an arts and cultural space.

Historical Insights

District Six Museum Shines a light on the destroyed multicultural inner-city area.

Robben Island Book ahead for visits to the former prison of Mandela and other freedom fighters.

Bo-Kaap Museum Learn about the people of the Cape Malay community in this colourful district.

Iziko Slave Lodge Exhibits on the history of slaves and their descendants.

South African Museum Lots of natural history and fine examples of San rock art.

South African Jewish Museum Traces the routes of Jewish migration and settlement in the country; has a section on the Holocaust.

Hidden Gems

Rust en Vreugd Elegant 18th-century mansion and garden in the midst of the city.

Tintswalo Atlantic Not staying at this luxe lodge? Call to see if you can visit for lunch or dinner.

Enmasse Thai massage the modern way, in a historic building tucked away in Gardens.

Wynberg Village Explore the many Cape Georgian buildings here to find the studios and shops of artists, designers and interior decorators.

Intaka Island Spot 120 feathered species and 200-plus plant species at this 1600-sq-metre wetland reserve nestled in the Century City development.

The Luxe Life

Status Luxury Vehicles Cruise Cape Town’s roads in a top-marque convertible, or have a chauffeur drive it for you.

Prins & Prins Go shopping for diamonds and other precious jewels at this emporium based in a historic City Bowl house.

Klûk & CGDT Haute couture from a former apprentice to John Galliano.

Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel Not a guest? Come for afternoon tea or visit the Planet bar and restaurant.

Sports Helicopters Hire a chopper and take some photos of the peninsula that will really impress your friends.

Activities & Sports

Hiking in Table Mountain National Park Hire a guide so you don’t get lost, and learn more about the Cape floral kingdom.

Abseil Africa Dangle from a rope off the edge of Table Mountain and take in the view.

Downhill Adventures Offering a range of adrenaline-fuelled activities, from mountain biking to surf safaris.

Animal Ocean Flip around with Cape fur seals off Duiker Island (aka Seal Island), either snorkelling or diving.