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Glasgow Walks
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Anteprima del libro
Glasgow Walks - Campbell Brown
Contents
Title Page
Introduction
Acknowledgements
1 George Square to Glasgow Cathedral
2 The Merchant City
3 The Riverside
4 City Centre I
5 City Centre II
6 Sauchiehall Street
7 West End I
8 West End II
9 The Burrell Collection
10 New Lanark
11 The Hill House
Author’s Note
Copyright
INTRODUCTION
Snatched suddenly by necessity from Auld Reikie and deposited forty miles to the west in the Dear Green Place, I clutched instinctively at my copy of Edinburgh Walks and turned its pages with fond nostalgia for familiar perambulations through that compact city of hills. Glasgow stretched before me, flatter, longer, wider – altogether a place on a different scale. Hesitatingly, I acquainted myself with its various parts, its galleries and museums, its parks (more green space here, the boast is, than any other city in Europe), its bars and cafes, its broad shopping streets and wally closes. The city began to take shape in my mind.
Then, as if on cue, this book drops into my hand and confirms the mental maps. But also shows how much detail I’ve missed. You need transport to get from some of these walks to others, but with the underground, the clockwork orange, there’s no problem. Whether you’re in the city centre, up around Byres Road or by the riverside, there’s a wealth of information in this book to keep the visitor or the recently arrived on the right track.
Edinburgh is like a village: you can walk it with ease, and probably see half your neighbours in the course of an afternoon (though you may not acknowledge each other). Glasgow is unashamedly a city – sprawling, gallus, buzzing; if you value your privacy, there’ll always be a couple of folk there to share it with you.
Maybe it’s the architecture of some of the buildings, maybe it’s the grid-system of the streets, but I’ve always thought there was an American-ness about Glasgow; although it could just be there’s a Glasgow-ness about East Coast America. But what do I know? I’m only a newcomer not yet weaned off The Scotsman. Still, there’s this feeling of energy in the streets, quite unlike the more restrained atmosphere of the Other Place. As though something could happen, any minute.
It probably will.
Dr James Robertson
Glasgow
June 1990
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank:
The Desktop Publishing Centre (031–558 3136)
The Graphics Company (031–557 8675)
CB&SW
June 1990
1
GEORGE SQUARE TO GLASGOW CATHEDRAL
City Chambers
Sir Walter Scott
Charles Rennie Mackintosh
Glasgow Cathedral
David Livingstone
Provand’s Lordship
Starting Point: GEORGE SQUARE (1)
Underground to Buchanan Street
Recommended Cafes & Bars
Caffe Qui, John Street
(behind City Chambers)
The statues in George Square commemorate many famous people, although some have little obvious connection with Glasgow. The square was named after George III, during whose reign the tobacco trade, which had given a massive impetus to the economy of Glasgow, suddenly ended. When the American colonies declared their independence, the trade that had enabled Glasgow to prosper from a small town to a thriving city disappeared overnight and ruined many of the Tobacco Lords in the process. More recently, tanks were sent into the square in 1919 following a riot in the time of the Red Clydesiders (see Riverside Walk).
The most prominent statue in George Square is that of SIR WALTER SCOTT (1837), by John Greenshields. Although his home was at Abbotsford in the Borders, Scott visited Glasgow on many occasions, usually on official legal business, and he was one of the first passengers on the revolutionary steam paddleship Comet. It was on a tour of Glasgow with John Smith the bookseller that Scott collected much of the detail that appeared in the romantic novel Rob Roy.
"‘I wish to know whether you can direct me the nearest way to a town in your country of Scotland called Glasgow?’ ‘A town ca’d Glasgow!’ echoed Andrew Fairservice. ‘Glasgow’s a ceety, man! … But what may your honour be going to Glasgow for?’ ‘Particular business’ replied I. ‘That’s as muckle as to say, spear me no questions, and I’ll tell you nae lees. To Glasgow?’ – he made a short pause – ‘I am thinking ye wad be the better o’ some ane to show you the road…’
From Rob Roy by Sir Walter Scott
WILLIAM EWART GLADSTONE, the Prime Minister for a total of 12 years, was born in Liverpool in 1809 of Scottish extraction. His work in securing free trade for Glasgow was of particular benefit to the city merchants, and earned him the freedom of the city.
The statues of VICTORIA AND ALBERT, both on horseback, are by Baron Marochetti. The statue of Queen Victoria commemorates a two-hour visit she made to Glasgow in 1849. When she arrived on the Royal Yacht Fairy, she proceeded to the station to take the train to Perth, watched by tens of thousands of people. All she really had time to do was knight the Lord Provost, James Anderson. The influence of Prince Albert on the city was indirect, but much more significant. His idea for an International Exhibition (held in 1851 at the Crystal Palace), as a showcase for British industry and technology, was taken up in Glasgow in a big way, and