Leather Bags and Purses
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Leather Bags and Purses - Elsie Mochrie
handbag
INTRODUCTION
THE making of bags and purses with leather is one of the oldes and mos universal of its uses. The designs for these are almos endless and vary, of course, with the material and use intended.
The aim of this book is to offer a selecion of simple and pracical shapes, giving the fulles value to the beauty of the material itself rather than emphasising the decoration. For leather is such a beautiful natural material that it is a shame generally to decorate it unless that decoration can be exceptionally good and suitable to its purpose. If this is appreciated we shall not find so many workers spoiling the leather by overloading it with pattern, jus as one does not find a well-dressed woman spoiling herself by wearing a lot of unnecessary ornament. If you want to excel, let it be in the quality of your workmanship, for that is usually the weak point in mos of our amateur leatherwork.
The leather in each case has been chosen as being suitable for the particular bag or purse shown, but alternative leathers of a similar subsance and thickness can be used if desired. They should, however, be of good quality, for it is only a wase of time to spend thought and energy on poor materials.
Before proceeding with the various examples a description of the necessary tools is given, and insrucions for the cutting of thongs, thonging, saining, sitching and fixing press-suds, so that these can be referred to as required to save repetition.
TOOLS AND THEIR USES
SIXWAY PUNCH.—This revolving punch is fitted with six different sized punches to make various sized holes. It is used for thonging and decorative purposes. The various sized punches are referred to as No. 1 (smalles punch), No. 2, No. 3, No. 4, No. 5, and No. 6 (larges punch).
TRACER.—For tracing designs on leather and for ruling lines.
MODELLER.—Obtainable in two or three sizes. This is used for modelling patterns on leather.
KNIFE for cutting leather. It gives a clearer and more accurate edge in cutting sraight edges than scissors, but for curved lines scissors are easier to use.
SCISSORS, as already mentioned, for cutting curved lines, etc.
BRASS RULE.—For measuring and using as a guide in cutting sraight edges.
SET SQUARE.—For accuracy in cutting out, e.g., for making right angles, etc.
BONE FOLDER.—For ruling lines and creasing folds.
STITCH SPACER.—Used for spacing the sitches for hand-sewn work.
FANCY PUNCHES.—Used for decorating leather. They are in the form of a small metal rod, at one end of which a pattern is engraved. The tool is placed pattern downwards on the leather and hit at the other end with a hammer, so that an impression is left.
PRESS-STUD TOOL.—For fixing press-sud faseners.
HAMMER.—For use with the press-sud tool and the fancy punches and for flattening purposes where necessary.
THE CUTTING OF THONGS
Thongs can be obtained ready cut in a variety of colours and leathers, but as it is sometimes more economical and preferable to use the leather of whieh the article is being made, insrucions are given here for cutting long thongs from small scraps of leather. They can, of course, be cut from the length of a skin, but then this is not always possible. A circle 4 in. or 5 in. diameter mus be cut firs. It is not advisable to sart with a smaller circle or the thong will be very curved and difficult to work with. Start at the given point A on diagram 1, and cut round the edge of the circle beginning with a point and gradually increasing to the width of the thong required. Continue cutting round and round the circle in this manner until the length of thong required has been cut, and if necessary until the circle measures only 2 in., after which it will be too small for use. The length of thong mus then be gently pulled to sraighten it ready for use.
OVERSEW THONGING
A thong is used to fasen the edges of two or more leathers together, or to srengthen the edge of a single piece using a narrow srip of leather. A series of holes are punched along the edges of the leather to be thonged, and the thong is threaded through these holes, passing over the edges in the manner of oversewing, working from left to right. The thongs mos commonly used are those 1/8 in. and 1/10 in. wide, but the width can, of course, be varied to suit the work. The leather used for thonging mus be srong, and for this reason thin goat-skin is an excellent leather to use. Plain Persian leather, morocco, or calf are also suitable. The disance between the holes for thonging should be a little more than the width of