Basic Crocheting and Projects
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About this ebook
Sharon Hernes Silverman
Sharon Silverman is the author of seventeen crochet books, including Crochet Cowls and Tunisian Crochet. She was a featured guest on HGTV’s fiber arts show, “Uncommon Threads” and is an instructor for Annie’s Crafts online classes. Known for her fashionable creations and crystal clear instructions, Sharon is honored to have had her designs published by leading yarn companies including Louet North America, Lion Brand Yarn, and Plymouth Yarn Company. Her private line of patterns is available through Ravelry.com.You can find Sharon at her website, www.SharonSilverman.com; on Ravelry and YouTube at CrochetSharon; and on Facebook and Pinterest at Sharon Silverman Crochet. She resides in West Chester, Pennsylvania.
Read more from Sharon Hernes Silverman
Delicate Crochet: 23 Light and Pretty Designs for Shawls, Tops and More Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Tunisian Crochet: The Look of Knitting with the Ease of Crocheting Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Tunisian Crochet for Beginners: Step-by-step Instructions, plus 5 Patterns! Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Crochet Scarves: Fabulous Fashions - Various Techniques Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Beyond Basic Crocheting: Techniques and Projects to Expand Your Skills Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Tunisian Crochet for Baby Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Basic Crocheting: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Brandywine Valley: Chadds Ford, Kennett Square, West Chester, Wilmington Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsCrochet Pillows with Tunisian & Traditional Techniques Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsPennsylvania Snacks Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
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Book preview
Basic Crocheting and Projects - Sharon Hernes Silverman
Contents
Introduction
Part I: Basic Tools and Skills
Tools and Materials
Yarn
Hooks
Other Equipment
Basic Skills
Preparing Yarn for Use
Holding the Hook
Making a Slip Knot
Holding the Yarn
Chain Stitch
Removing Extra Chains
Slip Stitch
Single Crochet
Half Double Crochet
Double Crochet
Treble Crochet
Working in Rows
Joining New Yarn
Fastening Off
Weaving in Ends
Measuring Gauge
Blocking
Reading a Pattern
Reading a Symbol Chart
Part II: Build Your Knowledge
Stitches to Learn
Single Crochet Two Together
Double Crochet Two Together
Front Post Double Crochet
Back Post Double Crochet
Reverse Single Crochet
Tunisian Crochet
Tunisian Simple Stitch
Picking Up a Dropped Stitch
Techniques to Try
Working into a Chain Ring
Working into an Adjustable Ring
Working into Chain Spaces
Working into Front or Back Loop Only
Working an Edging
Filet Crochet
Joining Motifs as You Go
Part III: Projects
Sophisticated Chevrons Pillow
Openwork Placemats
Woven Shoulder Bag
Shadowbox Pillow
Tunisian Crochet Scarf
Red Hot Heart Pillow
Basketweave Blanket
Wavy Sweater
Mesa Tapestry Bag
Lakeside Cliffs Shawl
Ruby Red Jumper
Fair Isle Fingerless Mitts
Lilytopia Shawl
Ripples on the Lake Wrap
Cascading Beads Shawl
Berry Sorbet Scarf
Checkerboard Blanket
Diamond Loop Scarf
Cactus Lace Scarf
Rosalia Motif Shawl
Resources
Skill Levels for Crocheting
Crocheting Abbreviations Master List
Standard Body Measurements/Sizing
Standard Yarn Weight System
Books
Yarn and Crochet Tools Suppliers
Other Resources for Crocheters
Visual Index of Projects
Introduction
Crocheting is easy to learn! Once you know a few basic stitches, everything else builds on that knowledge in a logical way, making it easy to start your first project and also fun to build your skills as you become more adventurous in your crocheting.
In Basic Crocheting and Projects, I’ve followed this logical approach to learning crochet. In Part One, you will get an overview of yarn, hooks, and other tools used in crocheting, and then I’ll walk you step by step with photos and illustrations through how to work the basic crochet stitches. In Part Two, you’ll build your knowledge with more advanced stitches and techniques such as working in the round, working front post and back post double crochet, Tunisian crochet, and working an edging. Then in Part Three you can use what you’ve learned to make twenty projects, including shawls, bags, scarves, blankets, pillows, and more.
Grab a hook and some yarn and start crocheting today!
Yarn
Color
Yarn comes in a dazzling array of colors. Variegated yarns combine several hues in one skein, changing from one color to another along the yarn. A visit to your local yarn store or craft shop is sure to inspire you with its rainbow of colors.
Most yarn is dyed commercially in batches, or lots. The color can vary from one batch to another. To avoid color discrepancies, purchase all the yarn you’ll need to complete your project at once. Check the codes on the skeins’ labels to make sure the yarn is all the same color and is from the same dye lot.
It is easier to see the stitches with light-colored yarn than with darker colors.
Six of the CYCA’s yarn weight categories, top to bottom: super fine, fine, light, medium, bulky, super bulky
Weight
Yarn also comes in different weights, from lace to jumbo. A crochet pattern will specify the type of yarn you should use. To make the finished project look the way the designer intended, use the recommended weight.
The Craft Yarn Council of America (CYCA) has issued yarn weight standards. These guidelines organize yarn into eight weight categories. Finer yarns are well suited to baby items and other delicate pieces; bulkier yarns lend themselves to thick, heavy sweaters and afghans. If you ever want to substitute one yarn for another, make sure that it is in the same weight category.
Composition and Structure
Yarn is made of spun fibers. These can be natural, such as wool, mohair, silk, or cotton; synthetic, such as acrylic, nylon, or polyester; or a blend. Each fiber has its own characteristics. Wool, for example, is warm but not as strong as some other fibers; acrylic is durable but not as breathable as natural materials. Blended yarns can provide the best of both worlds. Creative new blends—incorporating materials such as Tencel, camel’s hair, even soybean fibers—are being developed all the time. Mercerized cotton is thread that has been processed to preshrink it, add luster, and help it hold dye.
The word ply
means how many strands are twisted together to make the yarn or thread.
The way a yarn’s fibers are spun determines its structure. Here are some examples:
Spiral: Thinner yarn twisted around a thicker yarn.
Chenille: Plush, velvety pile. Comes from the French word for caterpillar.
Bouclé: Curled or twisted yarn held together in a way that produces small loops on the surface, giving it a kinky appearance and a springy feel.
Nubby: Two strands twisted so that one overlaps the other to produce a bumpy texture.
Slubby: A strand that is alternately thick and thin, twisted with a smooth or a bumpy second strand.
Tape: Yarn made of knitted threads woven into a narrow, flat band.
Novelty yarns: These can have eyelash
threads, metallic threads, faux fur or feathers, ladder or railroad-track effects, sequins … you name it. Some can be used solo; others work best when combined with another yarn.
Almost any stringlike material can be crocheted. Try your hand with gift-wrapping ribbon, raffia, fishing line, strips of rags, or plastic gimp to see what you like.
Hooks
The crochet hook is your basic tool. All have a hook on one end, which is used to pull loops through the work. Many have a flat part in the middle for you to grip. Cushioned hooks are also available. Hooks are made in steel, aluminum, plastic, wood, bamboo, and bone. They are sized by the diameter of the shaft.
Hooks are sold individually or in sets.
In addition to the standard hooks, there are specialty hooks. An afghan hook, or Tunisian hook, is a long hook with a stopper on the end or with a flexible plastic extension. A double-ended hook is similar to the afghan hook, but it has a hook on each end. These long hooks are useful for Tunisian crochet projects, in which the loops for each row remain on the hook all the way across a row and are then worked off.
Crochet Hook Sizes
*Letter or number may vary. Millimeter sizing is the most accurate.
Other Equipment
Pins
Used to hold finished pieces in place for blocking and when sewing seams.
Tapestry Needles
Used to sew seams and close rounds at the end of a project (like at the top of a hat).
Hook/Stitch Gauge
Used to measure the gauge of a crocheted swatch and to identify the size of unlabeled hooks.
Tape Measure
Used to measure people to determine garment size, and to measure work to check how a garment fits. Can also be used to check gauge.
Scissors and Yarn Cutter
Used to cut yarn. The pendant has a recessed blade accessible through the notched edges.
Row Counters
Used to keep track of rows. This is especially useful if you get interrupted while you’re working. Alternatively, use a pencil and paper to log your progress as you go along.
Beads
Incorporating beads into crocheted work brings an added level of sophistication. When choosing beads, take their weight, hole size, and shape into account.
A big-eye beading needle is helpful for prestringing beads onto yarn.
Steam Iron or Steamer
Used to block finished items, before or after assembly.
Stitch Markers
Used to mark the beginning of a round or the position of a stitch.
Preparing Yarn for Use
Most commercially manufactured yarn comes in machine-wound oblong skeins. You do not need to take off the label, also called the ball band, to use the yarn. It will pull from the middle of the skein. If the label indicates which side to pull from, follow those instructions. If not, you will have to find the correct end, tucked into the skein. Reach inside with a couple of fingers (kind of like you are pulling the giblets from a