Paddling Pennsylvania: Kayaking & Canoeing the Keystone State's Rivers & Lakes

Copyright ©2007 by Jeff Mitchell

Published by

STACKPOLE BOOKS

5067 Ritter Road

Mechanicsburg, PA 17055

www.stackpolebooks.com

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books.

Printed in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

FIRST EDITION

Cover design by Wendy Reynolds

Cover: Leigh Ann Jennings paddles the Susquehanna River at Tunkhannock with a view of Miller Mountain in the distance.

All photos by the author.

Paddling is an inherently risky activity with ever-changing conditions and numerous natural and man-made hazards. Please choose rivers and creeks that are appropriate for your ability. It is also important to exercise caution on lakes and ponds. All persons paddling the rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, swamps, and other waterways in this guide do so at their own risk; this guide is not a substitute for your own common sense, caution, and taking necessary safety precautions. The author and publisher disclaim any and all liability for conditions along the rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, swamps, and other waterways in this guide, occurrences along them, and the accuracy of the data, conditions, and information contained herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Mitchell, Jeff, 1974–

Paddling Pennsylvania : canoeing and kayaking the keystone state’s rivers and lakes / Jeff Mitchell. — 1st ed.

p. cm.

Includes index.

ISBN-13: 978-0-8117-3626-8 (pbk.)

ISBN-10: 0-8117-3626-1 (pbk.)

1. Canoes and canoeing—Pennsylvania—Guidebooks. 2. Kayaking—Pennsylvania—Guidebooks. 3. Pennsylvania—Guidebooks. I. Title.

GV776.P4M58 2010

797.1220978—dc22

2009035640

eBook ISBN 978-0-8117-4122-4

To Kaitlyn and Christian

Preface

Acknowledgments

Introduction

Delaware River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

1. Delaware River

Balls Eddy to Narrowsburg

Narrowsburg to Matamoras

Matamoras to Portland

Portland to Riegelsville

Riegelsville to Yardley

2. Lackawaxen River

3. Lehigh River

Bowmanstown to Kimmets Lock

Kimmets Lock or Canal Park to Easton

4. Little Schuylkill River

5. Tulpehocken Creek

6. Schuylkill River

Port Clinton to Reading

Reading to Fairmount Park, Philadelphia

7. Brandywine Creek

8. Darby Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

9. Belmont Lake

10. Miller Pond

11. Upper Woods Pond

12. Lower Woods Pond

13. White Oak Pond

14. Prompton Lake

15. Decker Pond

16. White Deer Lake

17. Shohola Lake

18. Pecks Pond

19. Bruce Lake

20. Egypt Meadow Lake

21. Promised Land Lake

22. Lower Lake

23. Tobyhanna Lake

24. Gouldsboro Lake

25. Bradys Lake

26. Long Pond

27. Francis E. Walter Reservoir

28. Locust Lake

29. Tuscarora Lake

30. Mauch Chunk Lake

31. Beltzville Lake

32. Hidden Lake

33. Minsi Lake

34. Leaser Lake

35. Lake Towhee

36. Lake Nockamixon

37. Lake Galena

38. Green Lane Reservoir

39. Blue Marsh Lake

40. Scotts Run Lake

41. Hopewell Lake

42. Struble Lake

43. Chambers Lake

44. Marsh Creek Lake

45. Lake Luxembourg

Susquehanna River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

46. Susquehanna River

New York border to Hallstead

Sayre to Laceyville

Laceyville to Falls

Falls to Shickshinny

Shickshinny to Northumberland (Shikellamy State Park)

Sunbury to Clemson Island/Halifax

Clemson Island/Halifax to Royalton

Falmouth to Peach Bottom

47. Sugar Creek

48. Wyalusing Creek

49. Mehoopany Creek

50. Tunkhannock Creek

51. Nescopeck Creek

52. Catawissa Creek

53. Penns Creek

54. Mahantango Creek

55. Shermans Creek

56. Conodoguinet Creek

57. Swatara Creek

Pine Grove to PFBC Waterworks Access

PFBC Waterworks Access to Middletown

58. Yellow Breeches Creek

59. Conewago Creek

60. Conestoga River

61. Octoraro Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

62. Beechwood Lake

63. Cowanesque Lake

64. Tioga Lake and Hammond Lake

65. Hills Creek Lake

66. Stephen Foster Lake

67. Sunfish Pond

68. State Game Lands 250 Pond

69. Cooks Pond

70. Stevens Lake

71. Stillwater Lake

72. Merli-Sarnoski Lake

73. Lackawanna Lake

74. Fords Lake

75. Frances Slocum Lake

76. Mountain Springs Lake

77. The Meadows and Beech Lake

78. Lake John

79. Splashdam Pond

80. Lake Jean

81. Lily Lake

82. McWilliams Reservoir and Klines Reservoir

83. Colyer Lake

84. Walker Lake

85. Faylor Lake

86. Memorial Lake

87. Opossum Lake

88. Letterkenny Reservoir

89. Pinchot Lake

90. Speedwell Forge Lake

91. Lake Williams and Lake Redman

92. Lake Marburg

93. Long Arm Reservoir

94. Muddy Run Recreational Reservoir (Muddy Run Lake)

95. Octoraro Reservoir

West Branch Susquehanna River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

96. West Branch Susquehanna River

Cherry Tree to Shawville

Shawville to Renovo

Renovo to PFBC Linden Access

PFBC Linden Access to Sunbury

97. Loyalsock Creek

98. Pine Creek

Ansonia to Blackwell

Blackwell to Torbert Canoe Access

99. Bald Eagle Creek

100. Kettle Creek

101. Sinnemahoning Creek

102. First Fork Sinnemahoning Creek

103. Driftwood Branch Sinnemahoning Creek

104. Bennett Branch Sinnemahoning Creek

105. Moshannon Creek

106. Clearfield Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

107. Shumans Lake

108. Sones Pond

109. Bearwallow Pond

110. Hunters Lake

111. Lake Chillisquaque

112. Rose Valley Lake

113. Little Pine Lake

114. Lyman Lake

115. Kettle Creek Reservoir

116. George B. Stevenson Reservoir

117. Shaggers Inn Shallow Water Impoundment

118. Curwensville Lake

119. Glendale Lake

120. Black Moshannon Lake

121. Foster Joseph Sayers Lake

Juniata River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

122. Juniata River

Huntingdon to Lewistown

Lewistown to Duncannon

123. Tuscarora Creek

124. Aughwhick Creek

125. Raystown Branch Juniata River

126. Frankstown Branch Juniata River

127. Little Juniata River

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

128. Holman Lake

129. Whipple Lake

130. Perez Lake

131. Cowans Gap Lake

132. Raystown Lake

133. Canoe Lake

134. Shawnee Lake

Potomac River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

135. Conococheague Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

136. Long Pine Run Reservoir

137. Meadow Grounds Lake

138. Lake Koon and Lake Gordon

Allegheny River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

139. Allegheny River

Port Allegany to Eldred

Kinzua Dam to Tionesta

Tionesta to Emlenton

140. Potato Creek

141. Conewango Creek

142. Brokenstraw Creek

143. Tionesta Creek

144. Oil Creek

145. French Creek

146. Clarion River

Ridgway to Irwin Access

Irwin Access to Clarion

Deer Creek Access to Parkers Landing

147. Red Bank Creek

Brookville to New Bethlehem

New Bethlehem to Allegheny River

148. Mahoning Creek

149. Crooked Creek

150. Kiskiminetas, Conemaugh, and Stonycreek Rivers

Greenhouse Park to Conemaugh River Lake

Conemaugh Dam to Allegheny River

151. Loyalhanna Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

152. Allegheny Reservoir

153. East Branch Lake

154. Beaver Meadows Lake

155. Tionesta Lake

156. Chapman Lake

157. Howard Eaton Reservoir

158. Lake Pleasant

159. Union City Reservoir

160. Clear Lake

161. Woodcock Creek Lake

162. Conneaut Marsh

163. Tamarack Lake

164. State Game Lands 69 Pond

165. Sugar Lake

166. Justus Lake

167. Lake Wilhelm

168. Kahle Lake

169. Kyle Lake

170. Mahoning Creek Lake

171. Hemlock Lake

172. Keystone Lake

173. Crooked Creek Lake

174. Yellow Creek Lake

175. Loyalhanna Lake

176. Keystone Lake

177. Conemaugh River Lake

178. Donegal Lake

179. Duman Lake

180. Colver Reservoir

181. Hinckston Run Reservoir

182. Wilmore Reservoir

183. Beaverdam Run Reservoir

184. Quemahoning Reservoir

Monongahela River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

185. Casselman River

186. Youghiogheny River

Ramcat Access to Ohiopyle

Connellsville to West Newton

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

187. Youghiogheny River Lake

188. High Point Lake

189. Cranberry Glade Lake

190. Laurel Hill Lake

191. Lake Somerset

192. Greenlick Run Lake (Green Lick Reservoir)

193. Virgin Run Lake

194. Dunlap Creek Lake

Ohio River Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

195. Shenango River

196. Raccoon Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

197. Pymatuning Reservoir

198. Hartstown Swamp

199. Shenango River Lake

200. Bessemer Lake

201. Lower Hereford Manor Lake

202. Lake Arthur

203. Glade Dam Lake

204. Glade Run Lake

205. Raccoon Lake

206. Cross Creek Lake

207. Dutch Fork Lake

208. R. J. Duke Lake

Lake Erie Watershed

Rivers and Creeks

209. Elk Creek

Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs

210. Presque Isle Bay

211. Lake Erie

Index

Sliding onto the water and breaking its surface with a paddle is like entering a different world—one that melts away the stress of our modern lives, a world that is governed by nature’s endless cycles and rhythms that will continue long after we are gone. All too often, our lives are cordoned off by the asphalt and macadam of the highways, streets, and roads that we build around ourselves. Yet our rivers and creeks are blissfully unaware of such limitations as they meander and bend, following courses that defy logic, always taking the most scenic routes. Being on the water offers a perspective of how we have been blessed with a beautiful world, a world with which humanity is inextricably intertwined despite our efforts to control and exploit it. Paddling offers us the solace and space to appreciate the incredible landscapes, history, and ecology of the places we call home.

I still think back to a paddling trip I did on the Clarion River with my friend Steve Davis a number of years ago. The air hung hot and heavy as the humidity faded the deep green forests and masked the distant mountains. We proceeded down the river into a gorge with massive boulders, deep pools, and swirling rapids, and we camped among the ferns and fished for smallmouth. Towering white pine trees rose like the columns of some sylvan temple while eagles, hawks, egrets, and herons followed their daily routines, unaware of our special sojourn. The soft murmur of the current reflected the sunlight in the morning and put us to sleep at night. At the time, I felt as if we were passing through a special place. And, in fact, we were.

See you on the river.

Special thanks to all my friends and family, including Joe and Tessa Mitchell, my parents, Leigh Ann Jennings, Steve Davis, Bryan Mulvihill, Bob Holliday, Jeff Sensenig, Dan Wrona, Ashley Lenig, Jay and Kristen Lewis, BCCKC, Paul and Paula Litwin, Rick and Nadine Dixon, Ed Kintner, Chuck Pirone, and Carissa Longo.

This book would not be possible without the assistance, support, and patience of Kyle Weaver and Brett Keener at Stackpole Books.

Finally, I express my appreciation to all those volunteers who support watershed organizations, clean our rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, and reservoirs, and maintain and promote our water trails.

Pennsylvania may derive its name from its forests, and it may be famous for its rolling, green mountains, but it is really a land of rivers and creeks, with more waterway miles than any state but Alaska. Rivers defined this state, providing routes for transportation and shipping lanes to convey coal and timber. They were highways through a wilderness, helping to build cities and industrialize a nation.

Unfortunately, man wasn’t so kind to the rivers and streams upon which he depended so heavily. Clear-cut forests resulted in massive erosion and devastating forest fires that clogged waterways with silt and sediment. Acid mine drainage rendered countless miles of rivers and streams lifeless. And finally, thousands of dams combined with dredging and channeling altered the natural flow of the rivers, preventing the natural migration and destroying the habitats of many aquatic species.

But then something began to change. People realized that rivers and creeks offered incredible recreational and environmental benefits. Water trails were established on several rivers and creeks to introduce people to these beautiful waterways. Greenway and comprehensive plans were established to protect and enjoy the rivers. Towns and cities that once shunned rivers are now establishing attractive riverfronts, trails, parks, and access areas. Kayaking is one of the fastest growing outdoor recreational activities in Pennsylvania. Instead of exploiting the rivers and streams, we realize their worth by appreciating them for their outdoor recreation, ecological, and scenic values.

Pennsylvania’s rivers and streams are known for their beauty. Some meander through pastoral countryside, while others cut through impressive canyons, water gaps, and gorges. These waterways offer a glimpse to the past, with the many old canals, bridge abutments, covered bridges, viaducts, and even forgotten towns that lie along their routes. Paddling also protects our waterways by introducing people to the beauty of the rivers, creeks, and lakes upon which our communities depend. By exposing people to our beautiful waterways, their value is appreciated and a realization is created of what could be lost if we do not preserve them.

Simply put, Pennsylvania offers some of the finest paddling in the country. Few states can match our incredible selection of large rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, and reservoirs. Whether you want to paddle the massive Susquehanna or the intimate Tionesta, the vast Lake Erie or the hidden wilderness of Shumans Lake, you will find it all in the Keystone State.

Purpose and Scope of this Guide

This guide primarily focuses on sizeable flatwater rivers and streams, although riffles and rapids exist on many of the rivers and streams covered. This is not a guide to whitewater rivers and creeks. Industrialized rivers, or those open to heavy commercial traffic, are generally not included. Many lakes and ponds are also covered, but only those that are open to the public and featuring scenic value and limited shoreline development. An overview description of each river, creek, lake, or pond is provided. If you are planning an extended trip on a river or creek, it is advisable you obtain a more detailed guide if one is available. It is important to understand that the character and difficulty of rivers and streams can vary greatly depending on flows. A flood can dramatically change a river or creek with new braids, islands, strainers, and rapids.

This guide is organized by watersheds—the reason being that rivers and streams cross political and regional boundaries that makes organizing a guide by those criteria difficult. The Susquehanna River alone crosses or adjoins fifteen different counties and three different regions of the state.

Safety

Even the most benign creek can become deadly. It is absolutely crucial that you take the necessary steps, and learn important skills, to help ensure your safety while on the water. Please be aware of the following hazards while on the water.

Strainers: Strainers are trees that have fallen into a river or creek, and they are the most dangerous features found on the water. Avoid strainers at all costs and never attempt to paddle through one. If you are out of your boat and the current is taking you towards a strainer and you cannot avoid it, do not try to swim underneath it. Instead, climb over it. Strainers are dangerous because there are branches under the water that can trap and drown a paddler. Furthermore, the powerful current will force a person down into the water when trapped in a strainer. Strainers are often found along islands or bends where the river is cutting into the bank.

Lowhead dams: These are the second most dangerous features on the water. As a general rule, always portage a dam; do not paddle over any dam unless it is breached and there is a safe route. Dams are dangerous because they create recirculating hydraulics, also known as holes, that can trap and drown a paddler. These hydraulics are caused by the water flowing over the dam. Dams are usually identified by a horizon line on a river or creek.

Wing dams: Wing dams exist on a few rivers and creeks, particularly the Delaware River. Wing dams extend from each shore partway into the river or creek, leaving an opening, usually in the middle, through which the river or creek flows. The opening often has very fast and powerful currents with large waves and rapids. Always paddle straight through the opening, or portage; never paddle over the wings, as there may be powerful hydraulics that can capsize a boat and cause drowning.

MAP LEGEND

Rapids: All of the rivers and creeks in this guide are primarily flatwater with easy riffles and rapids. High flows can create significantly more difficult waves and holes that can swamp and flip a canoe or kayak. Do not boat during high flows. If you swim in a rapid, float feet first, try to hold onto your paddle and, if you can, the upstream end of the boat.

Foot entrapment: As a general rule, do not attempt to stand up in deep, fastmoving water since your feet can become trapped in the riverbed, particularly if the riverbed is comprised of boulders, large cobblestones, trees, branches, or roots. If your feet become trapped, the current can force you underwater. Wait to stand up when you reach calm water or a shallow riffle. If you can, swim to calmer water; otherwise, float downstream feet first. Never jump feet first into moving current since your feet can become entrapped.

Hypothermia and exposure: These conditions can endanger a paddler any time of the year, including summer. Make sure to bring rainwear, waterproof clothing, and garments made with synthetic materials that can wick away moisture and conserve body heat. It is generally not a good idea to wear cotton since it dries slowly and does not insulate when wet, which can lead to hypothermia. Wearing a life preserver will provide additional protection from hypothermia.

Drowning: Drowning can result from a variety of factors, such as hypothermia, exposure, foot entrapment, exhaustion, or most frequently, failure to wear a life preserver. You should always wear a suitable preserver while on the water. Strong currents and long distances to shore can be difficult for any swimmer to overcome without a preserver. Most deaths are the result of people not wearing a life preserver.

Dehydration: It may seem ironic to face dehydration on the river, but you are more susceptible than you realize due to exposure to the sun and wind and the exertion required when paddling. Always bring enough water and/or a water filter.

Poison ivy and other poisonous plants and insects: Thanks to plenty of water and thick soils, poison ivy is a common presence along rivers and creeks, as are other poisonous plants. Learn to identify these plants. The locations in this guide also attract bloodthirsty and other troublesome insects. Protect yourself with repellant, bug netting, and clothing.

Equipment: Proper equipment is critical to help ensure your safety. Whenever you are on the water it is important to have these items:

Life preserver

Whistle

Cell phone

Wading shoes

Clothing made from wool or synthetic materials, such as polypropylene or fleece

Throw rope

Sufficient water and food

Water filter for longer trips

Rain jacket, hat, sunglasses

Sunblock

First-aid kit

Camera and binoculars

GPS—may be helpful finding islands on which to camp, or to navigate the larger swamps in this book, such as Conneaut Marsh or Hartstown Swamp.

Other safety precautions:

• If you capsize, hold onto the upstream end of the boat and swim to the shore or an eddy. If you are in a difficult current and cannot manage your boat, let it go and swim to shore.

• If you collide with an obstacle, such as a rock, while in a boat, lean into the obstacle to help prevent capsizing.

• Always scout any section of the river that may appear challenging, dangerous, or does not present a clear route.

• Never boat alone; always bring a friend and let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return.

When to Paddle

For the rivers and streams in this guide, sufficient flow is obviously dependent on rainfall. A wet year can result in many rivers and streams being runnable most of the time, and a dry year just the opposite.

As a general rule, the major rivers (Delaware, Schuylkill, Susquehanna, Juniata, West Branch Susquehanna, Allegheny, Youghiogheny) are runnable year-round, although you can expect to drag your boat across riffles and gravel bars. The other creeks and streams are usually runnable up until May or June, and again in late October or November. Heavy rainfalls may permit paddling for a few days to a week over the summer.

Rivers and streams in the southeastern corner of the state may be ice-free all winter long.

Access

As a general rule, established access areas with signs, ramps, and parking are available on the larger rivers and more popular creeks. Many of the lesser-known creeks in this guide do not have established access areas, so you will have to park along the road or in a pull-off, usually near a bridge. The banks to reach the stream or creek are often steep and brushy.

Acronyms

The destinations in this guide, particularly the lakes and ponds, are owned and managed by various governmental agencies and departments identified by their acronyms for convenience. They are:

DCNR: Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources

NPS: National Park Service

PFBC: Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission

PGC: Pennsylvania Game Commission

USACE: United States Army Corps of Engineers

USFS/ANF: United States Forest Service/Allegheny National Forest

USGS: United States Geological Survey

Almost every lake and pond in this guide has an access area of some kind that can be reached by a vehicle; however, there are a few that require you to hike in with your boat, offering a more challenging and isolated paddling experience.

Permits and Fees

Depending on which governmental agency or department or private entity owns the lake, pond, or launch areas, permits or fees may be required. This money is crucial in maintaining the access areas that are so important to paddlers.

DCNR and PFBC: Non-powered boats must have one of the following: launching or mooring permits from Pennsylvania state parks, or boat registration or launching permit from the PFBC.

USACE: Small fees are generally required to access USACE lakes. Fees are generally paid by the honor system at the parking and launch areas.

PGC: No permits or fees are required; however, DCNR or PFBC permits may be required at some lakes.

Privately owned lakes and ponds open to the public: May require their own permits or fees. Some may require DCNR or PFBC permits.

County and local government-owned lakes and ponds: May require their own permits and fees. Some may require DCNR or PFBC permits.

State and National Scenic Rivers

Pennsylvania is home to several rivers and creeks that have been designated as state or national scenic rivers. This list is limited to those rivers and creeks covered in this guide.

State Scenic Rivers

Brandywine Creek

Lehigh River

Little Schuylkill River

Octoraro Creek

Pine Creek

Schuylkill River

Tulpehocken Creek

Yellow Breeches Creek

National Scenic Rivers

Allegheny River

Clarion River

Delaware River

Pennsylvania Water Trails

Pennsylvania has an excellent system of officially recognized water trails established by local groups and the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission. Many of these rivers and creeks have maps and guides that are free to the public. Most of the rivers and creeks in this guide are not part of the water trail system. The PFBC and DCNR are actively looking to expand the water trail system, so if you have a local river or creek you’d like to include, go to www.fish.state.pa.us/watertrails/trailindex.htm for more information. The following rivers and creeks are part of the system:

Delaware River

Lehigh River

Schuylkill River

North Branch Susquehanna River

West Branch Susquehanna River

Pine Creek

Susquehanna River

Raystown Branch Juniata River

Juniata River

Conodoguinet Creek

Swatara