Best Backpacking Trips in Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico

BEST BACKPACKING TRIPS IN UTAH, ARIZONA, AND NEW MEXICO

MIKE WHITE AND DOUG LORAIN

UNIVERSITY OF NEVADA PRESS

RENO & LAS VEGAS

University of Nevada Press, Reno, Nevada 89557 USA

Copyright © 2016 by Mike White and Doug Lorain

www.unpress.nevada.edu

All rights reserved

Manufactured in the United States of America

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA

Names: White, Michael C., 1952– | Lorain, Douglas, 1962–

Title: Best backpacking trips in Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico / Mike White & Douglas Lorain.

Description: Reno, Nevada : University of Nevada Press, [2016] | Includes index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2015046484 (print) | LCCN 2016004104 (ebook) | ISBN 978-0-87417-996-5 (Paperback : alk. paper) | ISBN 978-1-943859-13-9 (e-book)

Subjects: LCSH: Backpacking—Utah—Guidebooks. | Trails—Utah—Guidebooks. | Utah—Guidebooks. | Backpacking—Arizona—Guidebooks. | Trails—Arizona—Guidebooks. | Arizona—Guidebooks. | Backpacking—New Mexico—Guidebooks. | Trails—New Mexico—Guidebooks. | New Mexico—Guidebooks.

Classification: LCC GV199.42.U73 W55 2016 (print) | LCC GV199.42.U73 (ebook) | DDC 796.5109792—dc23

LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2015046484

Disclaimer: The authors have made a reasonable attempt to ensure that the information contained in this book was accurate at the time of publication. However, a guidebook cannot guarantee the safety of any individual or group while hiking on trips described within its pages. Be aware that conditions may change at any time. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in the backcountry, which may include such precautions as attention to road, trail, terrain, and weather conditions, as well as the capabilities and competence of your companions. Staying well informed and exercising common sense and good judgment will assist you in having a safe and enjoyable experience.

To Dal and Candy,

two of our oldest Reno friends

and favorite hikers

Thousands of tired,

nerve-shaken, over-civilized people

are beginning to find out

going to the mountains is going home,

that wilderness is a necessity.

—JOHN MUIR

Contents

Illustrations

Acknowledgments

Introduction

Trail Etiquette, Wilderness Ethics, and Safety

Using this Guide

PART I — UTAH

1. Highline Trail

2. Under-the-Rim Trail

3. Zion Park Traverse

4. Coyote Gulch and the Escalante River Country

5. Salt Creek Canyon and Chesler Park Traverse

6. Grand Gulch and Bullet Canyon Traverse

PART II — UTAH AND ARIZONA

7. Buckskin Gulch and Paria River Canyon

PART III — ARIZONA

8. North Rim to South Rim: North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails

9. Tonto Trail: Grandview to Hermits Rest

PART IV — NEW MEXICO

10. Pecos Skyline Trail

11. Gila River Canyons Loop

Best Trips by Season

Index

About the Authors

Illustrations

Photographs

Human-sized cairn on the Highline Trail

Along the Highline Trail

Descent from Red Knob Pass

Ebenezer and Mary Bryce

Scene above Right Fork Swamp Canyon

Scene near Yellow Creek Camp

Kolob Canyons View

On the descent into Zion Canyon

Hikers at Coyote Natural Bridge

View from above Crack in the Wall

Angel Arch

Druid Arch

The Thumb

Green Mask Panel

A narrow section of Buckskin Gulch

Wavy patterns on the walls of Buckskin Gulch

Buckskin Gulch, approaching the confluence with Paria Canyon

View of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon from Bright Angel Canyon

Ribbon Falls, Grand Canyon National Park

A view of Granite Gorge from the Tonto Trail

On the Tonto Trail

The Colorado River from the Tonto Trail

Truchas Lake

View north along Trailrider’s Wall

Pecos Wilderness closed because of fire in 2011

Hoodoos in Middle Fork Canyon, below Jordan Hot Springs

Rock pinnacle below Jordan Hot Springs

Dramatic-looking pinnacle in Middle Fork Canyon below the Meadows

Maps

I.1 Trip Locator

1.1 Highline Trail Location

1.2 Highline Trail (West)

1.3 Highline Trail (East)

2.1 Under-the-Rim Location

2.2 Under-the-Rim (North)

2.3 Under-the-Rim (South)

3.1 Zion Park Traverse Location

3.2 Zion Park Traverse (West)

3.3 Zion Park Traverse (East)

4.1 Coyote Gulch and the Escalante River Country Location

4.2 Coyote Gulch and the Escalante River Country (West)

4.3 Coyote Gulch and the Escalante River Country (East)

5.1 Salt Creek Canyon and Chesler Park Traverse Location

5.2 Salt Creek Canyon and Chesler Park Traverse (North)

5.3 Salt Creek Canyon and Chesler Park Traverse (South)

6.1 Grand Gulch and Bullet Canyon Traverse Location

6.2 Grand Gulch and Bullet Canyon Traverse

7.1 Buckskin Gulch and Paria River Canyon Location

7.2 Buckskin Gulch and Paria River Canyon (West)

7.3 Buckskin Gulch and Paria River Canyon (East)

8.1 North Rim to South Rim: North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails Location

8.2 North Rim to South Rim: North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails (North)

8.3 North Rim to South Rim: North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails (South)

9.1 Tonto Trail: Grandview to Hermits Rest Location

9.2 Tonto Trail: Grandview to Hermits Rest (East)

9.3 Tonto Trail: Grandview to Hermits Rest (Middle)

9.4 Tonto Trail: Grandview to Hermits Rest (West)

10.1 Pecos Skyline Trail Location

10.2 Pecos Skyline Trail (West)

10.3 Pecos Skyline Trail (East)

11.1 Gila River Canyons Loop Location

11.2 Gila River Canyons (West)

11.3 Gila River Canyons (East)

Trail Profiles

Highline Trail

Under-the-Rim Trail

Zion Park Traverse

Coyote Gulch and Escalante River Country

Salt Creek Canyon and Chesler Park Traverse

Grand Gulch and Bullet Canyon Traverse

Buckskin Gulch and Paria River Canyon

North Rim to South Rim: North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails

Tonto Trail: Grandview to Hermits Rest

Pecos Skyline Trail

Gila River Canyons Loop

Acknowledgments

Thanks for my projects ever seeing the light of day mainly go to my wife, Robin, without whom nothing would ever come to fruition. I would also like to acknowledge the now retired Joanne O’Hare and Kathleen Szawiola at the University of Nevada Press for their help in launching the Best Backpacking Trips series. A big thank you goes to the current staff at UN Press for all their assistance. Keith Catlin, Tic Long, Andy Montessoro, and Dal and Candy Hunter joined me for the trips I contributed to this volume, and their presence on the trail was much appreciated.

—Mike

As with any book of this scope, many people contributed directly and indirectly to the completion of the work—from the tireless efforts of dozens of farsighted conservationists, who helped set aside the lands I now joyfully explore today, to modern hikers I’ve met on the trail and who anonymously offered suggestions and trip recommendations.

As usual, a few people deserve specific attention and appreciation. I would like to take note, for example, of David Eisbernd, my hiking partner on the trip down Buckskin Gulch and the Paria River. Showing remarkable restraint, he put up with my twisted humor and somehow managed to stop himself from strangling me in the middle of the night after I had accidentally dropped his expensive digital camera in quicksand earlier that day. Chris Paris, the condor project director of the Peregrine Fund, was gracious enough to read my essay on California condors and ensure that it was up to date and that the numbers and history were accurate. Jan Stock, at Bryce Canyon National Park, read and corrected my essay about the meaning of her magnificent park and provided a helpful photo of Mary and Ebenezer Bryce. I also want to give a warm (pun intended) thank you to the anonymous and very helpful woman just outside the fire-ravaged Pecos Wilderness in New Mexico. She saw this tired hiker trying to get back to his car and exit the area before wildfires trapped him and his vehicle. She gave me a lift, opened the gate that had been locked behind my car to keep others from entering the now-closed wilderness, and generally saved me a whole lot of time and trouble. I wish I knew her name so that I could thank her properly.

Finally, and most importantly, I want to thank my wife, Becky Lovejoy, for, well, for everything. You make it possible for me to pursue my hiking passions and just generally make life worth living.

—Doug

Introduction

Best Backpacking Trips in Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico is our second book following a guide to similar excursions in California and Nevada. The idea for a destination backpacking book for the great trips of the West was birthed one summer when my best friend, Tic, found himself the victim/beneficiary of a job loss due to the corporate raiding of Rupert Murdoch’s expanding empire. A generous severance package was the positive aspect of being let go after thirty-plus years of service, with a summer free from any obligations toward gainful employment. Along with a couple of other friends, Andy and John, we embarked on a nearly month-long backpacking expedition in the northern Rockies, with the added bonus of intervening forays into civilization to shower, eat, drink, sleep, and relax. After backpacking through the stunning landscapes of the Beartooth Mountains in Montana and the Wind Rivers and Tetons of Wyoming, and upon meeting several groups of fellow backpackers from across the country along the way, the idea of a guide to the classic backpacking trips of the western United States started to evolve.

Backpacking these three trips of a lifetime in one summer was quite an exhilarating experience and a genuine blessing, especially sharing the journey with three good friends. In our fast-paced, workaday world, the opportunity to unplug and decompress in the natural environs of the wilderness for just a week, let alone three, is quite a luxury. For those who appreciate the recuperative tonic of such an opportunity in the great outdoors, we trust this guide will provide the necessary information to plan and execute the best backpacking trips of the western United States. For those who have not taken the plunge into the wonderful world of traipsing through such magnificent country on foot with all the necessary essentials on their backs, we also hope this guide will inspire and encourage them to consider the possibility.

The western states of Arizona, Utah, and New Mexico possess some of the wildest and most scenic backcountry landscapes in the nation. Not only do American backpackers find trips in this region highly desirable, but so do countless international devotees as well. From scenic canyons to alpine summits, and nearly everything in between, this region is a prime area for backpacking trips of a lifetime. The trips begin in Utah with an extended high-altitude romp through the High Uintas, followed by four routes through iconic Southwest desert canyon topography within two national parks, a national monument, a national recreation area, and a primitive area. Spanning the boundary between Utah and Arizona, another canyon trip weaves through the Paria Canyon–Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. No guide to the Southwest would be complete without routes through Grand Canyon National Park, and we offer two trips with very different perspectives. New Mexico entries include an extended backpack through the high country of the southern Rockies and a loop through beautiful canyon country.

From wherever you live, these guides are designed to help you plan a once-in-a-lifetime backpacking trip to the premier routes in the western states. The majority of trips can be done roughly within a nine-day window, fitting conveniently within a traditional workweek bookended by weekends. This time frame usually includes a day each way for travel to and from the trailheads from most points within the United States.

We begin by helping you identify the top hikes in each of the three states. From there, we cover the aspects of planning a trip, including travel; acquiring gear, lodging, and food; campgrounds near the trailheads; and any local outfitters serving the area, in case you prefer such service. Also highlighted for each trip is a section for any must-see attractions close by that you could easily incorporate into your adventure. We provide information to help you navigate regulations and permits specific to each locale. Along with the customary technical data pertinent to each trip, we highlight any particular concerns or warnings as well. Every attempt has been made to provide an accurate, up-to-date description of each individual hike. Unlike a few guides on the market, we have walked every mile of the trails described herein. We feel confident that you have the complete information you need to plan and carry out any of these trips of a lifetime.

Along with all the previously mentioned details, short historical highlights for most of the areas have been included for your enjoyment in the hope that they will increase your appreciation for the areas themselves and for the people who were instrumental in their discovery or protection.

Lastly, personal vignettes accompany most trips as well. We hope they will inspire and encourage you to, as John Muir so eloquently stated, "Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn."

Trail Etiquette, Wilderness Ethics, and Safety

We presume that most people holding this book and contemplating a longer backpacking trip into the magnificent wilds of the American West already have (or should have) considerable experience with lugging around a heavy pack and the associated risks and responsibilities. (If not, please pick up a good how-to book on the subject, get some experience with a hiking club in your area, and take several shorter overnight adventures before setting out on any of the trips described herein.) Thus, this obligatory section on how to keep yourself safe and the wilderness unblemished by your visit is short and to the point.

Wilderness ethics in their basic form are very simple and really nothing more than common-sense principles: be light on the land (ideally nobody should even be able to tell you were there) and be courteous to other users. In practice, this means being respectful of other users and following all the no trace principles to ensure that the land is undamaged by your presence:

• Always camp in designated sites or on harder surfaces (not meadows) that can accommodate a tent without being damaged.

• Never cut switchbacks.

• Build only small campfires and only in areas permitted by local or seasonal regulations. Always use a backpacking stove for cooking, which is far more efficient than cooking over an open fire.

• Never feed wildlife.

• Never use any type of soap (even biodegradable soap) in any natural water source.

• Pack out all of your own litter (even biodegradable egg shells and the like) and pick up any litter you find left behind by others.

• Be quiet, inconspicuous, and respectful both on the trail and in camp, as to not affect the wilderness experience of others.

• Allow horse users the right of way by stepping off the trail on the downhill side.

• Report to land managers any major problems such as trail washouts, trashed-out hunter’s camps, illegal ATV damage, and the like.

In other words, be a good wilderness citizen. The land and other trail users will greatly appreciate it.

You also, of course, need to keep your safety in mind. Safety issues specific to particular hikes, such as camp-raiding black bears, lack of water, and extreme heat, are covered in the introductory material or trail descriptions for the individual trips. As for more general safety concerns:

• Never drink water, no matter how clear it looks, without purifying it first. (One of us has had giardia and wouldn’t wish the experience on his worst enemy.)

• Fully acclimate yourself before setting off on a long trip in the high elevations of the mountains or elsewhere.

• Be cognizant of the weather and avoid high ridges and mountain peaks during the afternoon, when thunderstorms are common in the mountains.

• Be especially careful when you are hiking in areas with unstable footing—loose boulders, small pebbles, icy patches, and the like. When you are 20 or more miles from your car, even a relatively minor injury can develop into a life-threatening situation.

• Hypothermia is the number one danger to hikers in the American West. So dress in layers, stay dry, eat plenty of high-energy snacks, and know the warning signs to look for so you can avoid this common killer.

Most importantly, exercise plenty of that often rarest of commodities, common sense. In other words, steer clear of anything that a disinterested third party might uncharitably describe as stupid. If you do that, and have along the necessary gear and experience, you are much more likely to come back safe and sound and have a comfortable and enjoyable trip.

Using This Guide

We intend for this guide to be used primarily by backpackers with at least some experience under their belts, as weeklong excursions are the focus of the trips selected for inclusion. As previously stated, beginning or highly inexperienced backpackers should become proficient at the activity on overnight outings before attempting any of the much more lengthy trips described here. For more information about backpacking, plenty of resources are available. Many cities have local hiking groups, community colleges, or outdoor retailers offering clinics and outings. An excellent book for basic backpacking is Joy of Backpacking: Your Complete Guide to Attaining Pure Happiness in the Outdoors, by Brian Beffort. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, published by the Mountaineers, is a technical guide about mountain climbing that contains a great deal of useful information about traveling in the backcountry.

Since backpacking is considered a rigorous physical activity, participants should be in excellent physical shape. Anyone with a lifestyle of lying on a couch all day watching television and eating Twinkies should not expect to be able to suddenly rise up and accomplish even the easiest trip in this guide. The level of enjoyment one experiences on the trail will be directly proportional to one’s level of physical fitness. Additionally, some of the trips require advanced skills, such as the ability to navigate cross-country, or the possibility of using an ice axe on steep, snow-covered slopes. Pay close attention to the difficulty ratings and the reason for them when evaluating the suitability of a particular trip.

Following each trip’s introduction, the following important information is listed:

Days: We suggest the number of days required to comfortably hike each trip. This number is for the average hiker; some people will want to take more time, and others less. Since all of these trips are located in spectacularly scenic areas, certainly more time could be spent enjoying the scenery. On the other end of the hiking spectrum, ultra-light backpackers in excellent shape could surely accomplish these trips in much less than the recommended time.

Distance: We have made every attempt to record the cumulative distances for each trip accurately, although you may find minor variances from time to time.

Type: This entry lists the nature of each hike. Loop trips start and end at the same trailhead. Shuttle trips start at one trailhead and end at a different trailhead, requiring either two vehicles or being dropped off at the beginning trailhead and picked up at the ending trailhead.

Scenery: As to be expected with trips of a lifetime, all the ones in this guide are highly scenic. On a scale of 1 (lowest) to 10 (highest), we have made a very subjective rating of the trips relative to each other. More than likely, some readers will have a difference of opinion.

Solitude: Similar to the Scenery category, here we list the potential for solitude on each trip. This is a subjective evaluation and may vary from one’s own experience. Some people may inadvertently end up on a trip with a high solitude rating at the same time as a group of fifty Boy Scouts.

Technical Difficulty: Another subjective evaluation on a scale of 1 to 10, this entry attempts to evaluate factors such as condition of the trail, degree of navigation required, stream crossings, lack of water sources, sections of cross-country travel, whether an ice axe may be required, and so forth to determine the overall technical difficulty of each route.

Physical Difficulty: Similar to the previous category, we determined how physically demanding each trip might be, taking into account factors such as elevation change, trail grade, altitude, and daily mileage.

Elevation Gain/Loss: The cumulative elevation gain and elevation loss for the entire trip is listed here.

Season: This section indicates the average time of year when the trail is open for travel.

Best: This subheading indicates the optimum time within the open season when conditions are usually at