A Century of Hairstyles
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About this ebook
Pamela Church Gibson
Pamela Church Gibson is Reader in Film & Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion, Vice-Chair of the European Popular Culture Association, and Principal Editor of the refereed journal Film, Fashion & Consumption. She has published extensively on film, fashion, gender, and heritage over the last 25 years. Her books include Dirty Looks: Women, Power, Pornography (BFI, 1993), The Oxford Guide to Film Studies (1998, with John Hill), Fashion Cultures (2001, with Stella Bruzzi), More Dirty Looks: Gender, Power, Pornography (BFI, 2004), Fashion and Celebrity Culture (Bloomsbury, 2012) and Fashion Cultures Revisited: Theories, Explorations, Analysis (2013).
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A Century of Hairstyles - Pamela Church Gibson
Irene Castle and the Bob
circa 1910–15
Short hair – and the fringed ‘bob’ haircut still popular today – is usually thought to have become fashionable in the 1920s along with short skirts, fringed dresses and the Charleston. However, its origins are in the Edwardian era of elaborately styled hair. Eve Lavallière was the most popular actress in Paris – celebrity endorsement is not new – and she lent her name to scents, soaps and shampoos. In 1909, the top Parisian hairdresser Antoine (aka Antoine de Paris) cut her hair short for a particular role in which it was important that she look younger than her years. Four years later, on the brink of the First World War, the American ballroom dancer Irene Castle, seen here pictured with her pet monkey Rastus, cut her hair short because it was more practical for dancing, particularly for the tango, which she popularised. It is rumoured that she cut her hair herself, and women on both sides of the Atlantic would do the same during the war years when they went out to work, many for the first time. During those years, women worked on the land and in munitions factories to aid the war effort; most enjoyed this taste of social and economic independence. Short hair was an integral part of these new freedoms and would dominate the next