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From the Source - Italy: Italy's Most Authentic Recipes From the People That Know Them Best

From the Source - Italy: Italy's Most Authentic Recipes From the People That Know Them Best

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From the Source - Italy: Italy's Most Authentic Recipes From the People That Know Them Best

valutazioni:
3/5 (1 valutazione)
Lunghezza:
528 pagine
2 ore
Pubblicato:
Aug 1, 2015
ISBN:
9781743609545
Formato:
Libro

Descrizione

From Lonely Planet, the world's leading travel guide publisher, From the Source is a groundbreaking cookbook series that introduces food lovers and travel enthusiasts to the world's most authentic local dishes by transporting them into the kitchens where they were perfected. Each country-specific edition features sumptuous original photography, up to 70 classic recipes, and inside stories and tips from the world's best local cooks, from street-food vendors to Michelin-starred chef patrons.

With From the Source Italy, you'll tour through Northeast Italy's earthy and elegant hot broth-based soups and warming polenta and risotti, Northwest Italy's preserved cods and cakes of forest-harvested truffles and hazelnuts, Central Italy's dark gamey stews and fresh porcini mushroom pastas, and Southern Italy's citrus-scented fish grills and herby salads.

Authors: Lonely Planet, Sarah Barrell and Susan Wright.

About Lonely Planet: Since 1973, Lonely Planet has become the world's leading travel media company with guidebooks to every destination, an award-winning website, mobile and digital travel products, and a dedicated traveller community. Lonely Planet covers must-see spots but also enables curious travellers to get off beaten paths to understand more of the culture of the places in which they find themselves.

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves, it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' - Fairfax Media

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' - New York Times

Lonely Planet guides have won the TripAdvisor Traveler's Choice Award in 2012, 2013, 2014, and 2015.

Important Notice: The digital edition of this book may not contain all of the images found in the physical edition.

Pubblicato:
Aug 1, 2015
ISBN:
9781743609545
Formato:
Libro

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From the Source - Italy - Lonely Planet Food

CONTENTS

Introduction

Northeast Italy

Hot broth-based soups, warming polenta and risotti reign supreme in Italy’s northeast. Add some of the country’s most sculptural vegetables and you have a menu that’s both earthy and elegant.

Northwest Italy

The forests here offer rich pickings, from black and white truffles to hazelnuts harvested for cakes. On the coast you’ll find recipes focused around salted anchovies, tuna and preserved cod.

Central Italy

From fresh pastas fragrant with porcini mushrooms, to dark gamey stews, the central regions showcase some of Italy’s finest produce.

South Italy

Mediterranean cooking at its most iconic, with fresh fish grills, citrus scents and herby salads dressed with little more than a green drizzle of local olive oil.

Basic recipes

Recipe sources

Acknowledgements

INTRODUCTION

Italian food: much loved, much appropriated. There are more international interpretations of pizza, pane and pasta pomodoro than there are Italians living in Italy, and while this speaks volumes about the worldwide appeal of this deceptively simple cuisine, it rarely says much about authenticity.

Forget Jamie’s Italian – we’ve gathered 60 recipes from Italy’s top to toe, coast to coast: 60 dishes harvested from the very places in which they originated. Nigella might do a polished pollo arrosto and the River Café an iconic zuppa alle vongole but as one of our featured chefs from Genoa says: unlike French cuisine, Italian food came not from a tradition of great chefs but from mothers and grandmothers. And to cook food just like mama used to make it, you have to go to the source, to the very families who originated iconic dishes, or who inherited them and keep them alive. These are the people whose stories we tell, through their recipes, their restaurants and their great love of the fertile terrain that surrounds them.

Unfussy and family-focused, Italian food is nothing if not a celebration of simple ingredients – a perfect margarita pizza, spaghetti aglio e olio, a caprese salad dressed with nought but locally grown and pressed extra virgin olive oil. And more often than not, less is more. A handful of modest ingredients can add up to a thing of great beauty, and great provenance, too. Italy’s produce, from its grains to its grapes, its olives to its truffles, form culinary maps of the country. The home of Slow Food, Italy’s is the ultimate locavore culture whose seasonal, regional cuisine is focused on recipes that are deeply rooted in the earth and sea from which they’re derived.

So don’t expect to find chapters in this book dedicated to ‘antipasti’, ‘primi’ or ‘secondi’ but rather to regions, each with their own home-grown ingredients that are conjured into simple-genius dishes. From a spaghetti al ragù in Bologna, to a classic pizza portofoglio in Naples, a hand rolled orecchiette in Puglia to a Piemontese vitello tonnato, we bring you the recipes that define a region, a city, a medieval commune or hilltop village; recipes that have often been handed down for generations and, thanks to Italy’s wealth of DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and IGP (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) produce, can only have come from the very spot from which we harvested them.

Like any great trip through Italy, this book should see you revisit some old haunts and still, we hope, learn something new but also, we’re sure, uncover some great new food terrain. And there is food for everyone, from simple antipasti, such as bagna caoda and stuffed zucchini flowers that take 15 minutes to whip up but are the making of any party table, to technical challenges from such greats as Massimo Bottura and Norbert Niederkofler, plus a fair few ‘nona’ bakes too. Buon appetito!

NORTHEAST ITALY

Hot broth-based soups, creamy warming polenta and risotti reign supreme in Italy’s northeast. Add to this some of the country’s most sculptural vegetables – curlicue stems of pretty purple radicchio, globes of artichokes fit for a flower arrangement and ancient roots from Alpine slopes – and you have a menu that’s both earthy and elegant.

I SOFFICI AI TRE PARMIGIANI IN BRODO DI GALLINA FIDENTINA

Parmesan bread balls in chicken broth with garden vegetables

FIVE AGES OF PARMESAN

PRESSKNODEL

Dumplings with Graukäse

BACCALÀ MANTECA TO

Creamed cod cicchetti

TORTELLINI IN BRODO

Tortellini in broth

RISOTTO ALL’ISOLANA

TAGLIOLINI CON SCAMPI E CARCIOFI

Tagliolini with Venetian artichokes & scampi

TORTELLI DI ZUCCA

Pumpkin tortelli

STINCO DI MAIALINO, INSALATA DI CAPPUCCIO, CANEDERLO AL TORCIONE E SALSA AL CUMINO

Slow cooked suckling pig shank with cumin canederlo dumplings and cabbage salad

TAGLIATELLE AL RAGU

Tagliatelle with ragu

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO DI TREVISO E PROSECCO

Risotto with Treviso radicchio & Prosecco

TIRAMISU

I SOFFICI AI TRE PARMIGIANI IN BRODO DI GALLINA FIDENTINA CON VEDURA DEL L’ORTA

Parmesan bread balls in chicken broth with garden vegetables

These soffici are of a feather lightness that’s far from their rather stodgy English translation – bread balls – and are nothing like oft’ heavy gnocchi or polpette di pane. The signature soffici of chef Massimo Spigaroli of Antica Corte Pallavicina are rich with three types of DOP Parmesan from Emilia- Romagna, served in a delicate chicken broth.

Chef //

Massimo Spigaroli

Location //

Antica Corte Pallavicini, Polesine Parmense

Soffici means ‘fluffy’ in Italian, and these easy-to-make bread balls are just that: fluffy-light, despite the richness of the Parmesan within. This recipe calls for three types of Emilia-Romagna’s DOP cheese: Parmigiano Reggiano di Pianura (from the flatlands), Parmigiano Reggiano di Colline (from the hills) and Parmigiano Reggiano di Montagna (from the mountains). More than just a change of name, these three cheeses have tastes that correspond to the altitude at which their respective cows are grazed, the flavour and fat content of the milk changing with the different grasses and herbs the cows eat. But if you can’t get these subtly different Parmesans, one well-matured variety will do.

Set in the Emilia-Romagna heartland of Polesine Parmense with views of the River Po, the Antica Corte Pallavicina estate comprises a farm where the pigs for their famed Culatello di Zibello, are raised. This slow-cured boneless ham, a musky-sweet cut taken from the muscle of pig’s rump, makes prosciutto seem workaday. The estate produces just a few thousand of these cellar-cured hams a year, most of which are sold into Italy’s top kitchens. As such, Spigaroli has become something of an international ambassador for Italian cuisine but, born right in Polesine Parmense, he remains very much a local boy, with most of the ingredients for Pallavicina’s restaurant drawn from the immediate countryside.

The Fidentina chicken for this dish (a breed from the Emilia-Romagna town of Fidenza) has been raised on the estate, the vegetables grown in Pallavicina’s orto (kitchen garden), and the cheese, of course, is DOP Parmesan, house-aged in the vast cellars of the 14th century farmhouse. But if you can’t make it out to this rural retreat to sample the soffici, head to Emilia Romagna’s gastronomic hub city of Parma, where the Pallavicina’s produce is sold at the Saturday morning farmers market on Via Imbriani.

I SOFFICI AI TRE PARMIGIANI IN BRODO DI GALLINA FIDENTINA CON VEDURA DEL L’ORTA

Parmesan bread balls in chicken broth with garden vegetables

Serves 6

Preparation time and cooking time 1hr 30min

For the soffici

300g (10½oz) ricotta cheese

50g (2oz) Parmigiano Reggiano di pianura (flatlands)

50g (2oz) Parmigiano Reggiano di collina (hills)

50g (2oz) Parmigiano Reggiano di montagna (mountains) OR in place of three Parmigianos above simply use 150g (5½oz) of well-matured Parmigiano Reggiano

50g (2oz) dried breadcrumbs

1 egg

pinch of salt and grated nutmeg, to taste

For the broth

2L (4pt) chicken broth

200g (7oz) of seasonal vegetable leaves: kale, cabbage, spinach, sprouts etc, panfried in a little extra virgin olive oil

FIVE AGES OF PARMESAN

National treasure, international celebrity chef and, above all, champion of Emilia-Romagna cuisine, Massimo Bottura explains why his signature ‘Five Ages of Parmesan’ is not just a recipe but a poem to the culinary traditions of his region… and why (or at least how) you should attempt this at home.

Chef //

Massimo Bottura

Location //

Osteria Francescana, Modena

‘This dish has a long story. It was originally developed as Three Textures and Temperatures of Parmigiano Reggiano. Some years later, a gentleman farmer called Umberto Panini requested the dish and I made him not three but four textures and temperatures, adding a chilled foam, a quenelle of demi-soufflé, a sauce and a cracker, thus also creating an abstract shape. After the meal, Umberto invited us to Hombre, his dairy farm near Modena. "I’d like to show you what stagionatura (maturing/seasoning) means to a wheel of cheese, he said. It might help your recipe."

It did. The subtle changes between a 24- and 50-month aged cheese altered the recipe radically. The characteristics of each wheel vary according to the ageing, the landscape, the breed of cow and their diet: mixed grains, free-range grass or both. We began stashing away wheels of Parmigiano all over the region with hand-written labels: Osteria Francescana – do not open until … As our wheels matured, the recipe evolved accordingly. Some of them are still sitting there.

Then we took our chances with a 50-month cheese. We boiled the dark crusts, added the grated cheese and left the broth to marinate for two days. Once strained, it became the purest Parmigiano water imaginable. With the whirl of a hand-held blender, the liquid rose into the air and stayed there. From a dense, aged cheese we had created something ethereal, almost invisible. The white-on-white monochrome, a sculpture bathed in fog, silence and stagionatura: a portrait of the Emilian countryside. And it only took twenty years to make.

Parmigiano Reggiano is not just any old cheese; it’s the epitome of Emilia and the cornerstone of the Italian kitchen. Created by Benedictine monks in the 12th century, it takes roughly 500L of milk to make one 40kg wheel. The coagulated curds are stirred in copper vats and heated to 55°C where they form a mass, which is shaped and placed in a mould. The wheels float in salt water for 30 days, then are laid out on long wooden shelves where they age. The most important part of any of these recipes is Parmigiano-Reggiano; not Grana Padana or other substitutes. You can identify real Parmesan by the crust. If there is the brand Parmigiano-Reggiano burned into it, it’s the real thing. If you can’t get all five maturities don’t worry. It’s even more reason to come and visit us in Italy.’

FIVE AGES OF PARMESAN PART 1

Tip

‘If you take on each of the individual elements of this recipe separately it isn’t that difficult. Here are two of the parts. The demi-soufflé is delicious for any occasion and can be served with the Parmesan sauce on the side. The crunchy cracker can be made ahead of time and served with the demi-soufflé, as a crumble in a salad or to top a plate of pasta. The more intense and old the cheese, the more intense the flavour.’ Massimo Bottura

Serves 4

Cooking time 1hr

Demi-soufflé

200g (7oz) organic ricotta

60g (2oz) egg white

100g (3½oz) of 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

40g (1½oz) double (heavy) cream

pinch of sea salt

pinch of white pepper

FIVE AGES OF PARMESAN PART 2

Serves 4

Cooking time 3hr, not including overnight resting of cheese

Parmigiano wafer

100g (3½oz) of 40-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

100g (3½oz) mineral water

PRESSKNODEL

Dumplings with Graukäse

‘Cook the mountain’ is the philosophy behind the food conjured up by Norbert Niederkofler, chef at Rosa Alpina, a smart, Alpine-style lodge in San Cassiano, high up in the Alta Badia region of the Italian Tyrol. This chef-cum-food scientist is bringing about a renaissance of ancient produce with dishes that aim to breathe vibrant new life to age-old recipes.

Chef //

Norbert Niederkofler

Location //

St Hubertus, Alta Badia

‘Each February I order some 450 vegetables. That’s everything we need for the

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