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    Amamani Puzzle Balls
    Amamani Puzzle Balls
    Amamani Puzzle Balls
    Ebook212 pages1 hour

    Amamani Puzzle Balls

    By Dedri Uys

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    About this ebook

    Amamani is short for Amigurumi Amish Animals. They are based on the traditional Amish puzzle ball, and, as such, come apart into three segments, or rings, which have to be assembled to form your animal. Gauge isn't important in these projects; however, it is important that you work as tightly as you comfortably can. Helpful tips and step-by-step photos are included in this pattern book. Each of the six designs is stitched in segments using Deborah Norville Everyday Premier yarn, is stuffed with polyfiberfill, and includes a pair of safety eyes. Animals included are Dinosaur, Elephant, Giraffe, Turtle, and two versions of Lion.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherAnnie's
    Release dateOct 1, 2014
    ISBN9781573675703
    Amamani Puzzle Balls

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      Can't wait to make all of them!

    Book preview

    Amamani Puzzle Balls - Dedri Uys

    —Dedri

    Information

    Gauge

    Although gauge is not important, it is important that you work as tightly as you comfortably can. Everyone works with a slightly different tension. This can play a part in both how big and how neat your finished animal will be.

    The animals illustrated in this book are a case in point. They were made by 3 different people. They all used the same hook and yarn, but some animals came out bigger than others.

    If you crochet loosely, your finished animal will be holey, and the stuffing will most likely come through.

    If you crochet tightly, your finished animal will be sturdy and more difficult to overstuff.

    If you know that you crochet quite loosely, consider going down a hook size or using a thicker yarn.

    Stuffing

    I have noticed that people tend to think they have overstuffed the ball because the wedges are quite fat and the segments are super snug. However, the ball will stretch over time, and to get the best results, you want to stuff it nice and full!

    If you use too little stuffing, the segments will not sit together as well, and the ball is more likely to become lifeless after a lot of playing.

    Crocheting tightly will help prevent overstuffing by making the finished pieces less prone to stretching.

    Running Stitch Markers

    A running stitch marker is simply a piece of scrap yarn that you place over your work at the beginning of a round. This piece of yarn is then flipped backward and forward over your work at the beginning of each subsequent round, forming a running stitch up your work. It is the easiest way to keep track of the beginning of each round, whether you are working in a spiral or joining in the round. I recommend using a running stitch marker to remind you of where the end of the round should fall.

    Working in a Spiral

    Working in a spiral means that you won’t be joining the last stitch of each round to the first stitch of the same round. Instead, you will just continue around in a spiral, making the first stitch of each round in the first stitch of the previous round.

    Example:

    Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, do not join. (6 sc)

    Continue around, making the first st of the next round in the first st of this round. Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work before making the first st of the next round (see Photo 1).

    Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)

    Flip your scrap yarn back over your work before making the first st of the next round (see Photo 2).

    Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.

    Remember to flip your scrap yarn backward or forward before making the first st of each round.

    Things to Notice at This Point

    The last st of each round should fall in the stitch before the stitch marker (see Photo 3). If it falls in the same st as the st marker, you have skipped a stitch somewhere.

    Your piece of scrap yarn will form a running stitch up your work, marking the first stitch of each round. It should creep slightly to the right (or to the left if you are left-handed) as your work progresses (see arrow in Photo 4). If it creeps straight up or in the wrong direction, you have made a mistake somewhere.

    Short Rows

    The name is derived from the fact that short rows do not begin and end where rows or rounds traditionally begin or end. Rather, they are worked backward and forward across a defined number of stitches, allowing you to either create height and shape or to turn the direction of your crochet work by 90 degrees.

    The main problem with short rows is that you have to be very clear about where they start and where they end, because a miscalculation or missed stitch can cause your whole item to come out wrong. To that end, you need some sort of landmark to refer to.

    Landmarks

    Use the step formed by the beginning of the previous short row as a landmark. It is the point in the crochet work where an angle is formed by the turn at the beginning of the previous short row.

    The instructions will indicate whether a specific short row should be worked around the outside of the head or on the inside, due to the fact that you turn at the end of short rows. This should help you keep track of which row you are on.

    Short rows will have the word short row in bold at the beginning of the row, followed by inside or outside.

    When making the short rows, do not use the running stitch marker unless specifically instructed to do so.

    Example

    Row 1: Ch 11, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of next 9 chs, turn. (10 sc)

    Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

    Row 5 (short row outside): Ch 1, sc in each of first 6 sts, sl st in the next st, leaving rem sts unworked, turn. (6 sc)

    At this

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