Johannesburg & Kruger National Park: Includes Panorama Region, Sun City and Pilansberg Game Reserve

Since its sudden birth in 1886 when a hapless Aussie discovered gold on the Highveld, Johannesburg has dominated the country, morphing from a rough frontier town into a financial metropolis and the largest city in Africa south of Cairo. Although in the past, Joburg has suffered from much-publicized high crime rates, it is now successfully dusting off its dodgy reputation and drawing back visitors in droves. Crime-busting regeneration programmes have seen formerly run-down areas transformed into places to visit, live in and enjoy, while recent additions to tourism attractions include some of South Africa’s finest cutting-edge museums, such as the celebrated Apartheid Museum or the Cradle of Humankind. There are numerous other historical and cultural attractions, as well as mega-shopping malls, excellent restaurants and sophisticated nightlife.

Just 50 km to the north, South Africa’s recently renamed capital, Tshwane (Pretoria) couldn’t be more different. Unlike Joberg, Tshwane is staid and conservative, with wide streets lined with jacaranda trees which bloom a regal purple in spring.

To the east, Mpumalanga state is home to the magnificent Kruger National Park, one of the best places in Africa for game viewing. While it’s entirely possible to see the Big Five in one afternoon, a longer stay allows visitors to fully appreciate the wilderness of the park. West of the park, the Panorama Region is well worth a detour. This mountainous area is dotted with quiet agricultural towns, clustered along the top of the spectacular Blyde River Canyon, and a handful of viewpoints open up stunning vistas to the Lowveld shimmering to the horizon.

North West Province is known first and foremost as the home of Sun City, a huge entertainment complex and one-time gambling haven which was once the most visited site in South Africa. Gambling aside, a good reason for visiting is the Pilanesberg Game Reserve, which offers the chance of seeing the Big Five at a malaria-free altitude and just a few hours from Johannesburg or Tshwane (Pretoria).

Planning your trip

South Africa has a moderate climate and long sunny days for most of the year. You will only come across truly tropical conditions in the northeast corner of KwaZulu Natal around Kosi Bay and the border with Mozambique. During summer Gauteng can get very humid. Most of the rain falls in the summer months and, when it does rain, there are often very heavy storms. If driving in these conditions, slow down and pull over. Also be on the lookout for flash floods, especially if you’re camping.

The best time of year for game viewing is during the winter months, when vegetation cover is at a minimum and a lack of water forces animals to congregate around rivers and waterholes. Winter is also the best time for hiking, avoiding the high temperatures and frequent thunderstorms of the summer months. Despite being cooler, July and August are a popular time for visitors as they coincide with the European school holidays. December and January are by far the busiest months for South African tourism. Be sure to book your car hire and accommodation well in advance during these periods. One major disadvantage of visiting during the summer is that much of the accommodation is fully booked months in advance, and the coastal towns become horribly overcrowded. For further advice on when to go to South Africa, visit www.weathersa.co.za.

No visit to South Africa is complete without going on safari, and there are numerous conservation and wildlife-watching areas across the country, some owned by the government and some in the private sector. These offer visitors the chance of seeing splendid African landscapes and wildlife including the Big Five: elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros, lion and leopard, along with countless others and innumerable bird species.

The best season is during the winter months, from July to September, when dry weather forces animals to congregate around waterholes, and vegetation is lower and less dense, making it easier to spot wildlife. Summer weather, from November to January when rainfall is at its highest, also has its advantages as animals will be in good condition after feeding on the new shoots, and there are chances of seeing breeding displays and young animals. The landscape is green and lush, although the thick vegetation and the wide availability of water means that wildlife is far more widespread and difficult to spot. The optimum times to go viewing at any time of year are early in the morning and late in the afternoon, when the animals are at their most active. The midday heat is usually too intense for the animals, which rest up in thickets for most of the day.

The majority of game viewing is undertaken independently and, as visitors are largely left to their own devices, it is a good idea to buy some wildlife identification books. Driving around endlessly searching for animals is not the best way to spot many of these creatures. While speed limits are often 40 kph, the optimum speed for game viewing by car is around 15 kph. Drives can be broken up by stops at waterholes, picnic sites and hides. Time spent around a waterhole with your engine switched off gives you an opportunity to listen to the sounds of the bush and experience the rhythms of nature as game moves to and from the water. Most parks are only open to visitors during daylight hours, and the parks will give you the details of seasonal changes, so it is important to plan your game-viewing drive so that you can start at first light and return before the camp gates shut just before dark.

There are also numerous safari companies operating out of Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town, which can arrange accommodation and game-viewing trips as part of a tour. The cost varies, with everything from bargain backpacker tours to expensive luxury safaris. Organized tours can often provide more game-viewing opportunities – quite simply because a group means more pairs of eyes on the lookout. Experienced guides will also be adept at spotting well-camouflaged animals.

Air

Jet lag is not an issue if flying from Europe to South Africa as there is only a minimal time difference.

The three main international airports in South Africa are: OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg (renamed from Johannesburg International Airport in 2006 after the late anti-Apartheid activist Oliver Tambo), Cape Town International Airport in Cape Town, and King Shaka International Airport in Durban (opened in 2010 to replace the old Durban International Airport and named after the Zulu king). Johannesburg is the regional hub with numerous daily flights to and from Europe, North America, Asia and Australia. Although most flights arrive in Johannesburg, a fair number of carriers fly directly to Cape Town, and a couple directly to Durban. There is a huge choice of routes and flights, but for the best fares you need to book well in advance, especially over the Christmas and New Year period which is the peak summer holiday season in South Africa.

South African Airways (SAA), operates the route between Moshoeshoe I International Airport in Lesotho and Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport, and there are daily flights. SAA, in conjunction with SA Airlink, also operates the route between Matsapha International Airport in Swaziland and Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport; again there are daily flights.

Airport information South Africa’s international airports are modern and efficient, with food courts, shops, banks and ATMs, post offices, car and mobile phone rental desks, tourist information kiosks, and shuttle and bus services into the respective cities. Although there are some direct flights to Cape Town, the majority of international flights arrive in Johannesburg, and then connect on to Durban, Cape Town and the other cities. Regardless of your eventual destination, immigration is done at Johannesburg, which usually means you have to pick up your luggage from the international arrivals terminal and check in again at domestic departures. Remember to put locks on your bags – there have been many incidents of things going missing from luggage en route through Johannesburg airport.

For live flight information visit the Airport Company of South Africa’s website, www.acsa.co.za, T0867-277888, or send an SMS to T38648 with the flight number, in reply to which you’ll receive up-to-date flight details.

Road

Bus The three main long-distance companies, Greyhound, Intercape and Translux (see below), cover routes across South Africa’s borders. The coaches are air conditioned and have a toilet; some sell refreshments and show videos. For long journeys, the prices are reasonable (though always compare fares with the no-frills airlines). All bus tickets can be booked directly with the bus companies or through the national booking agency Computicket; online at www.computicket.com, or in South Africa, at any of their kiosks in the shopping malls or any branch of Checkers and Shoprite supermarkets.

Greyhound, T083-915 9000 (in South Africa), T011-276 8550 (from overseas), www.greyhound.co.za, runs services from Tshwane (Pretoria) to Maputo in Mozambique, and Harare and Bulawayo in Zimbabwe. Intercape, T0861-287 287 (in South Africa), T012-380 4400 (from overseas), www.intercape.co.za, runs services from Johannesburg/Tshwane (Pretoria) to Gaborone in Botswana, Windhoek in Namibia and Maputo in Mozambique, and from Cape Town to Livingstone in Zambia (via Namibia). Translux, T0861-589 282 (in South Africa), T011-773 8056 (from overseas), www.translux.co.za, runs services between Johannesburg and Tshwane (Pretoria) and Maputo in Mozambique.

Car If crossing any international borders in a private car, you must have a registration document, insurance and a driving licence printed in English with a photograph. With the exception of Zimbabwe, you should be able to take a hire car into all the bordering countries, though check with the rental company first. You will need a letter of permission to take a car across a border if it is not registered in your name, and a ZA sticker (available from car rental companies or any AA shop in South Africa – usually found in the shopping malls). Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho, Swaziland, Mozambique and South Africa are all part of SADC’s (Southern Africa Development Community) joint customs agreement, so if you are in your own car travelling on a carnet, you only have to produce this when crossing your first or last border to the SADC countries.

South Africa has an efficient transport network linking its towns and cities. The road systems and flight networks are the best in Africa, making travelling the considerable distances a straightforward experience. Affordable domestic flights link the cities, a sophisticated army of private coaches criss-crosses the country, and the train system, although painfully slow, offers another way of getting from A to B. City transport is limited, though, and South Africa’s cities generally lack safe and reliable urban public transport. This is improving all the time, however, and new transport systems are being developed at a rapid pace, while existing ones are being upgraded. Nevertheless, having your own transport on a visit to South Africa remains the most flexible option (see below).

Air

There is a far-reaching and efficient domestic service and regular daily flights connect the major cities; all of which are within a couple of hours’ flying time of each other. On popular routes where there is some competition, such as Johannesburg–Cape Town or Johannesburg–Durban, a single flight can sometimes be only a little more expensive than a bus ticket.

Rail

Most of the major cities are linked by rail and, while this is a comfortable and relaxing way to travel, it is very slow. The trains are run by Shosholoza Meyl, part of the national network Spoornet, T0860-008 888 (in South Africa), T011-774 4555 (from overseas), www.shosholozameyl.co.za. Timetables and fares can be found on the website. Shosholoza means ‘to push forward’ or ‘to strive’ and is the name of a popular traditional African song favoured particularly by hard-working men whose job it was to lay railway lines. All the trains travel overnight, so they arrive at some stations en route at inconvenient times. There are sleeping carriages, with coupés that sleep two or four people, with a wash basin, fold-away table and bunk beds. Bedding can be hired for an extra fee and bedding tickets can be bought on the train (an attendant makes up the bed), though taking your own sleeping bag is also an option. Always book well in advance for sleeping compartments, especially during local holidays. The ‘sitter’ carriages are not recommended for long journeys as there is only open coach seating. Refreshments are available from trolleys or dining cars, but don’t expect brilliant food and it’s a good idea to take extra snacks. The trains generally don’t have a problem with security, but if you leave your compartment, make sure a train official locks it after you.

The routes are: Johannesburg–Cape Town (daily in both directions, 27 hours); Johannesburg–Durban (daily except Saturday in both directions, 13 hours); and Johannesburg–Port Elizabeth (Sunday, Monday and Friday in both directions, 20½ hours). The Cape Town–Durban route via Kimberley and Bloemfontein (in both directions, 38 hours), was suspended at the time of writing, but will start up again after extensive bridge maintenance; check with Shosholoza Meyl (see above).

Spoornet also operate a more upmarket service, the Premier Classe, T011-774 5247, www.premierclasse.co.za, between Johannesburg and Cape Town (25 hours), Johannesburg and Durban (14 hours), both twice a week, and Johannesburg and Hoedspruit (for Kruger National Park and the private game reserves in Limpopo Province, 16 hours), once a week. This is a pleasant alternative to flying if you have the time, and the carriages are a lot nicer than the regular train, with two-bed coupés and extras like dressing gowns, toiletries and ‘room service’, and there’s a good restaurant car serving breakfast, high tea and dinner; fares include all meals. The train between Johannesburg and Cape Town has an additional ‘spa-car’ for pampering, and, except for the Hoedspruit service, vehicles can be taken on the trains, which gives the option of taking the train in one direction and driving in the other.

Metro commuter trains and high-speed rail links Many of the larger cities such as Tshwane (Pretoria), Johannesburg and Cape Town have a network of metro commuter services linking the suburbs to the business districts. These should generally be avoided as there have been many cases of robbery. Avoid the metro around Johannesburg and Tshwane (Pretoria) at all costs. If you do use it, stick to first class and travel only during rush hour (0600-0800, 1600-1800).

The Gautrain, call centre T0800-428 87246, www.gautrain.co.za, is a high-speed rail link between Johannesburg, Tshwane (Pretoria) and OR Tambo International Airport in Gauteng.

Road

Baz Bus The Baz Bus, T021-439 2323, www.bazbus.com, is a hop-on, hop-off bus that offers a convenient and sociable alternative to the main bus services. It is specifically designed for backpackers visiting South Africa and remains one of the most popular ways of seeing the country on a budget. One of the best aspects of the service is that the bus collects and drops off passengers at their chosen backpacker hostel. There are a few exceptions such as Hermanus, Coffee Bay and Sani Pass, where the bus will drop you off at the closest point on the main road, and the hostels will then meet you for an extra charge, though you must arrange this in advance. The Baz Bus route is Cape Town–Durban along the coast, and Durban–Tshwane (Pretoria) via the Drakensberg. Visit the website for the full timetable.

Tickets are priced per segment, for example from Cape Town to Durban. You are allowed to hop off and on the bus as many times as you like in the given segment, but must not backtrack. This is where the savings are made, since the other mainline buses, charge high prices for short journeys. However, note that for long distances without stops, the mainline buses are better value. YHA and ISIC card holders are entitled to a 5% discount on Baz Bus tickets.

Car hire Hiring a car for part, or all, of your journey is undoubtedly the best way to see South Africa; you get to travel at your own leisurely pace and explore more out-of-the-way regions without being tied to a tour or a timetable. Driving isn’t challenging; the roads are generally in excellent condition and, away from the major urban centres, there is little traffic. Petrol, not a major expense, is available 24 hours a day at the fuel stations in the cities and along the national highways; an attendant fills up, washes the windscreen and, if necessary, checks oil, water and tyre pressure, for which a tip of a few rand is the norm. Parking is easy and the sights and shopping malls have car parks. For street-side parking in the cities and towns, you pay a uniformed attendant between 0800 and 1700. Parking costs on average around R5-7 per hour. In less formal places and at night, you pay a ‘car guard’ about the same to watch over your car – they are usually identified by a badge or work vest. Driving is on the left side of the road and speed limits are 60 kph in built up areas, 80 kph on minor roads and 120 kph on highways. Speed traps are common. Remember that if you are caught by a speed camera, the fine will go to the car hire company who have every right to deduct the amount from your credit card, even if it is some time after you have left South Africa.

The minimum age to rent a car is usually 23. A driver’s licence (with a translation if it’s not in English) and a credit card are essential. Tourist offices usually recommend large international organizations such as Avis or Budget, but there are a number of reliable local companies, usually with a good fleet of cars and follow-up service. It is worth asking at hotels for recommended local car hire companies, and be sure to shop around. There is a range