Backpacker

Coastal Getaway

REALLY DON’T want to step on a salamander, but they’re making it difficult. A typical November morning drizzle has brought the forest to life as I weave through a sea of massive, moss-covered logs and evergreen salal shrubs. I’ve barely started the hike before I have to dodge a rust-colored rough-skinned newt and then a giant coastal salamander the size of a small.

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