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or all its pros (democratic show schedule) and cons (venues spread all over Manhattan and Brooklyn, made worse by bad traffic), New York Fashion Week still pulls out enough surprises to thrill each season. For A/W20, it owed its most memorable moments to emerging designers who have taken almost everything into their own hands, be it eschewing the official Spring Studios venue or rethinking the conventional runway experience. This show of rebellion is evidenced in a new wave of glamour, extravagance and social consciousness that