Decanter

TOP 20 ATLANTIC WHITES FROM PORTUGAL

As Portugal’s white wines have risen to prominence, so have her Atlantic-facing regions. The best wines deliver remarkable intensity and character, with the (acid) backbone for ageing; sometimes a salty sea tang. Unobtrusive oak use – if any – with lees ageing for mouthfeel, lets the ocean hold sway.

Atlantic exposure was key to my selection, in locations not more than 20km from the ocean, making the wind and wave-whipped Azores and Madeira islands an obvious starting point. A flurry of activity in the last decade has produced salty, piquant, mineral wines from volcanic soils, whose influence John Szabo MS, author of Volcanic Wines, evocatively describes as imparting ‘a weightless gravity’. Verdelho, with its tropical citrus and succulent nuances, is king in Madeira and, in the Azores, in Biscoitos and Graciosa but not in Pico, where it shares the turf with Arinto dos Açores (citric/stone-fruited) and Terrantez do Pico (savoury).

On the continent, Portugal’s west coast takes the brunt of the Atlantic ocean’s swells and storms (unlike the Algarve’s sheltered, Mediterranean-influenced

Stai leggendo un'anteprima, registrati per continuare a leggere.

Altro da Decanter

Decanter2 min letti
Your Letters
One of my favourite wines is a dry Riesling from Domaine LeSeurre in the Finger Lakes. Due to Covid, I haven’t been able to drive up from New Jersey (3hr 40min) and buy more. I have no way to get this wine otherwise. The winery can’t ship to New Jers
Decanter1 min letti
The Bordeaux Index view
Much has been written in the last few years around the possibility that there is a Burgundy ‘bubble’: that prices are unsustainable and could see a sharp correction. Yet approaching three years on from the rapid market gains of 2017-2018, prices have
Decanter1 min letti
Champagne Goes Pop As Star Jay-Z Sells Half To LVMH
Champagne has made headlines after rap star and entrepreneur Shawn ‘Jay-Z’ Carter sold a 50% stake in his Armand de Brignac brand to Moët Hennessy, while Louis Roederer has announced new still wines from the region. Moët Hennessy, the wine and spirit