Decanter

Andrew Jefford

The bushfires affecting Australia as I write this column, shortly after the turn of the year, are deeply traumatic: 5.9 million hectares burnt and counting. The vineyard region most grievously affected so far is the one I know – and love – best: the Adelaide Hills. About one third of the 2020 crop has been lost and some 1,100ha burned, including vineyards and wineries I remember well from the

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Cabbage
As you might imagine, wine with pungent cabbage notes is not generally what the winemaker intended. This note can be identified as a tangy flavour or aroma, often calling to mind over-stewed school meals. Stewed or rotten cabbage aromas could be a si
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The Verdict
Although the gran reserva category has basic parameters (see p105), there is still considerable variation in its wines. Winemakers can choose to age their gran reservas for longer, and wines are also increasingly being made in a variety of styles. In
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Singular Sensation?
Bodegas Lecea’s deep underground cellars in San Asensio are some of the most beautiful in Rioja, popular with wine-loving tourists in search of good reds, a friendly family welcome and a brush with the past. Some of the concrete tanks in these cool g