Garden & Gun

Highway Legacy

Frilled by a lacy crust, the onion rings at Crechale’s Cafe leave the kitchen in a wigwam stack on a white china plate. Shirrell Benton, who has worked at this throwback roadhouse on the outskirts of Jackson, Mississippi, for more than fifty years, moves through the dining room. Bearing an order of those rings and a pair of old-fashioneds, she glides between leatherette booths, past a mounted eight-foot sailfish, beneath an amoeba-shaped drop ceiling backlit by red and

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