IN MUMBAI, AND The Bombay Canteen is packed. The crowd is young. The conversation is loud. The cocktails are flowing. And—here’s the surprise—the food is Indian: the remixed, rebooted, and regional form dubbed “contemporary” or “modern” or “nouvelle” (but never “fusion”!) by the country’s hottest chefs.

A few years have passed since I last visited Mumbai (“Say Bombay!” my Indian wife, Shailaja, admonishes), and a lot has changed. The last time we were here, we scoured the city for a good Maharashtrian restaurant and found only Trishna, a stuffy old favorite that specializes in seafood dishes from the state’s Arabian Sea coast. Just as in Delhi (where we live) or Bangalore or Kolkata or any other Indian metropolis, the city’s top tables were serving Italian or Mediterranean or Japanese or Vietnamese. And the joints doing Indian were doing it badly, serving up a dumbed-down menu of Punjabi and Mughlai dishes (dal makni, palak paneer, muttar paneer, chicken curry, mutton curry) or a comparably bastardized and truncated version of South Indian fare. (On a separate jaunt to Kochi, we discovered that just about the only place you could get real Keralan food was in the toddy shops.)

Over the last six years or so, however, Indian restaurants have witnessed something of a revolution, and “local”

Stai leggendo un'anteprima, registrati per continuare a leggere.

Altro da DestinAsian

DestinAsian1 min letti
Trunk Call
South African carrier Airlink ( flies daily from Johannesburg to Kasane airport, right on the doorstep of the national park. The sole safari property in the park’s northeastern sector is the riverside Chobe Game Lodge (chobegamelodge.c
DestinAsian8 min letti
A Tunisian Oasis
AS THRILLING AS IT IS to ride an explosively flatulent camel alongside a derelict Star Wars film set on the edge of the Tunisian Sahara, I’m more taken by our visit later that day to the date-palm oasis at Tozeur, where we trot on horseback under a c
DestinAsian2 min letti
Cheers To Changi
A leading Gulf airline expands its reach to northern Malaysia with services via the Lion City. Carrier: Emirates Launch date: April 9 Aircraft: Boeing 777-300ER Distance: 6,446 kilometers Flight time: 10 hours 40 minutes Frequency: Daily Jakarta–Toky